Here are some Colour Recipes for Mid-Nor from Gallery: Adeptus Titanicus Legio Vulpa. Please take note that this is a simple colour scheme, not covering multiple overlapping layers and blends in between, that lead to the final product. It is supposed to be used as guideline not a step-by-step.
METAL under-armour:
Black Undercoat,
Mix Metallic Black (Val air) 1:1 Metallic Rust (Val air),*
Gun Metal (AP), flbr
Shining Metal (AP), flbr
Strong Tone Ink (AP),
Shining Metal (AP), l&p
Rust Streaks (AK Interactive), effects
PURPLE armour:
White Preshade,*
Hexen Lichen (Val air),* stenciled
Hexen Lichen (Val air),*
RED Armour:
White Preshade,*
Gory Red (Val air),*
Black Wash for Vehickles (Val),* stenciled
GOLD/BONE ornamentation:
Bonewhite (Val air), bl
Strong Tone Ink (AP),
Pallid Wych Flesh (GW), l&p
Strong Tone Ink (AP),
Off White (Val), l&p
GREEN light:
Duck Egg Green (Val air), p
Light Livery Green (Val air),*
Waywatcher Green (GW), glaze
Off White (Val), l&p
BLUE light:
Light Sea Blue (Val air),*
White,*
Guilliman Blue (GW), glaze
Off White (Val), l&p
l&p – lines and points,
p – points,
bl – blend,
gl – glaze,
drbr – drybrush,
fltbr – flatbrush,
lobr – loaded brush,
stpl – stippling,
*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)
Hobby Grips, Miniature Holders, Painting Holders – many names for a single high-demand product. Painting Holders are a topic that comes back time and time again at painting facebook groups and forums. Hobbyists seek advice on ‘which one is the best’, ‘where to buy’ etc. The thing is that in general ‘the best’ is what works for you and while Painting Holders are a rather expensive addition to your hobby tools collection – it does not have to be this way. Below is a Tutorial, or rather just a simple idea on how to create your own Painting Holders in large numbers and most importantly – for cheap.
To create your own Painting Holders you will need any of these, or similar items:
* 30-40ml Plastic/Metal glass
* Plastic fluid container (from Pharmacy)
* Wooden cylinder
* BLU TACK
The choice of material, to create Painting Holders from, is up to you. Depending on what you choose the price, weight, re-usability, durability and aesthetics will vary.
Plastic is the cheapest, but also the least durable. Plastic glasses work best if glued one on top of another, to improve stability and durability. Even then it will break from time to time, plus is very light, which might lead to miniatures toppling down once set up on the workbench. Plastic is a very good choice for large Painting Holders, as they are stable and not too heavy. Plastic can be easily cleaned with solvents which is a bonus, when you want to mark some information with a marker.
Metal is very durable and has great re-usability. Can be cleaned with solvents, is medium weight. Compared to professional Painting Holders, metal glasses are still pretty cheap (You can probably get between two to five dozens for the price of a single Painting Holder!).
Wood is the heaviest and has the most adhesive friendly surface. It is also the most expensive of the three and is, in time, affected by water. Still it is very classy and feels great in hand. Wood is the only one to support pins. If you like to paint your miniatures unbased, or aim to get just a few Painting Holders, wood might be the best choice for you.
Personally I started with plastic, but got frustrated throughout the years and moved to metal as a result. I still use plastic for larger holders, as it seem to work fine when closed at the bottom.
Preparing your own Painting Holders is pretty easy. Press a ball of Blu Tack to the top of the glass/container and push a Miniature onto it. Just like that – it is done! Consider adding more Blu Tack for larger holders, so that miniatures are immobilized.
* No, if properly mounted the miniature would not fall off. I have painted hundreds of plastic/metal miniatures like this and none have ever fell off the Holder.
* When choosing items to be used as holders – stay open minded! In my case the revelation of using metal glasses instead of plastic came out of nowhere!
Welcome to Rocky Bases tutorial. Here I will take you on a Step-by-step trip through the process of creating and painting Rocky Bases as presented in the picture below. This adventure is possible thanks to generosity of Gamers Grass and their easy to use, fantastic products.
Before we start, some notes:
As mentioned in previous Tutorial, when making bases, I usually aim for fast, simple, yet effective solutions. It is important to pick a basing method that is easy to copy onto large quantities of miniatures or coming back to a project. This is why I consider Gamers Grass Basing Bits a perfect solution. Nicely textured, ready to use straight out of the box – glue them on, add some texture around – you’re ready to paint. All that being said – for this particular base type I choose Gamers Grass “Rocks” basing bits.
Step one: Applying basing bits
I started by applying glue onto the base and gluing few basing bits on top.
Step two: Applying texture
I then applied texture with Games Workshop Stirland Mud.
At this point entire “Modelling” part is done. If it seem fast it’s because it really is. Just two steps and you’re ready to paint!
I choose to paint these Rocky bases in a classic Bron plus Grey style. Assuming these are meant to be used for a large collection, I want to keep things simple. Would be perfect to close in about three layers per color, with a single type of tufts on top. Just your everyday nice looking, coherent bases. Here’s how I went about it…
Step two: Undercoat
I applied a black undercoat.
Step two: Main color
I then painted entire base with Vallejo Charred Brown. Once dry I drybrushed Games Workshop Calthan Brown on top.
Step two: Secondary color
For rocks I went with Vallejo Panzer Dark Grey, followed by a drybrush of Games Workshop Fortress Grey.
Step tree: Highlights
Final highlight was done with a drybrush of Games Workshop Karak Stone for brown and a drybrush of Vallejo Ghost Grey for rocks.
Step tree: Tufts
Finally I applied Gamers Grass Swamp Wild Tufts.
And with that the job was done! Fast and easy – as all bases should be. I hope this was a pleasant tutorial and that you saw how simple the process is. If you want to learn more about Gamers Grass products – here’s my review:
Welcome to Temple Bases tutorial. Here I will take you on a Step-by-step trip through the process of creating and painting Temple Bases as presented in the picture below. This adventure is possible thanks to generosity of Gamers Grass and their easy to use, fantastic products.
Before we start, some notes:
In my opinion base is supposed to complement a miniature, not steal the spotlight. For this reason, when making bases, I usually aim for fast, simple, yet effective solutions. Important thing to note when deciding on what to use for your bases is to pick a method that is easy to copy. This is why I consider Gamers Grass Basing Bits a perfect solution. Nicely textured, ready to use straight out of the box – glue them on, add some texture around – you’re ready to paint. All that being said – for this particular base type I choose Gamers Grass “Temple” basing bits.
Step one: Applying basing bits
I started by applying glue onto the base and gluing few basing bits on top.
Step two: Applying texture
I then applied texture with Games Workshop Stirland Mud.
At this point entire “Modelling” part is done. If it seem fast it’s because it really is. Just two steps and you’re ready to paint!
I choose to paint these Temple bases in a bit of a Desert’ish style. Let’s say these are meant to be used for a large army. I want to keep things simple, best if within three layers per color, crowned with a single type of tufts. Nothing fancy, just nice looking, coherent bases. Here’s how I went about it…
Step two: Undercoat
I applied a black undercoat. This is my usual start for everything 😛
Step two: Main color
I then airbrushed Vallejo Desert Yellow over entire base. Once dry I applied Vallejo European Dust Wash.
Step two: Secondary color
For ruins I choose Vallejo Cold Grey, followed by a wash of water thinned Vallejo Dark Panzer Grey.
Step tree: Highlights
I then highlighted both colors with a soft drybrush of Games Workshop Flayed One Flesh. I also applied some highlights with the same color on the edges of ruins – just a bit to make them pop.
Step tree: Tufts
Finally I applied Gamers Grass Burned Wild Tufts.
Job done! There’s some poetry in both starting and finishing a base using products from the same company 😛 Either way – I hope this was a pleasant tutorial and that you saw how simple the process is. If you want to learn more about Gamers Grass products – here’s my review:
Welcome to Painting Black Marbe tutorial. Here I will take you on a Step-by-step trip through the process of painting black marble.
Before we start, some notes:
Step one: Undercoat
I started with an airbrushed layer of White.
Step two: Base texture
For this step I used a Steel Wool stencil prepared in the previous Tutorial: Painting Marble. I simply took few pieces of steel wool, taped them together and used them as a stencil. I then airbrushed black paint through the stencil. Furthermore in some places I have removed black paint with a wet toothpick to create strong white lines.
Step three: Texture
Next I added a layer of texture by manually applied stains of Vallejo Pale Grey Wash. After waiting half a minute I removed the excess of the paint with a paper towel.
Step four: More texture
I then applied stains of Vallejo Air White, but this time removed the excess of the paint with slightly pressured water. You can simply airbrush water with around 0,5 bar pressure if you don’t have a sprinkler.
Step five: Sealing the colour
To seal the colour I applied an even, smooth layer of Army Painter Dark Tone Ink.
Step five: Gloss
Finally I applied two layers of airbrushed Gloss Varnish. This resulted in a nice polished glossy look but also added that 3d look to different layers.
Here’s how the finished base looks like.
This bonus method is much simpler and I think it had a lot of potential, still I stumbled upon it by accident just fed ways ago and hadn’t had time to test it thoroughly. Here’s basics:
Done! Seems mind blowing? Surely is. Have I done this right? Totally no 😛 White spots are too large, but as mentioned – there’s potential in the method and at some point I will find a way to make it work.
Note from the author: I hope you enjoyed this article. Be sure to let me know what you think in the comments or at my facebook. If you ever use the tutorial – please tag me at facebook or send pics through Line app to scarhandpainting, so I can enjoy your work 😉
Gamers Grass – a Portuguese company focusing on delivering a wide range of basing accessories. Formed in 2015 by a group of hobbyists, Gamers Grass brought many interesting products to the market. Alongside well established Tufts, Flowers and Shrubs, their range consists of ready to use Bases, but also basing Bitz and very colorful Alien Tufts. It was the latter that drew my attention to Gamers Grass, which instantly resulted in some shopping.
Now it’s few days after the delivery. I have thoroughly tested a range of Tufts/Shrubs/Flowers and done some research, hence I am ready to share my opinion with a wider public.
As a full time miniatures painter I cannot allow myself to use products of questionable quality. This is why quality is the first thing I look out for when purchasing hobby related items.
That being said Gamers Grass Tufts and Flowers strike me as well thought through, top quality products. They are mostly precisely shaped, with near to none stray hair. Each Tuft has a bit of adhesive at the bottom and can be applied straight from the sheet. Adhesive strength is comparable with Army Painter’s tufts, so less “goo” than for example Paint Forge’s and GW’s, but perfect for my personal taste. I apply some Super Glue either way.
Most importantly, except just few, the Gamer’s Grass Tufts hold their shape firmly. Not much hair fell off when I was removing the tufts from the sheets and applied them onto the bases.
Visually Gamers Grass Tufts look stunning. Apart from classic tufts, there’s Alien and Spikey series, which are like nothing I’ve seen previously in the market. All tufts are fluffy and solid and thanks to a wide variety of colors and shapes – they turn bases into little pieces of awesome.
Most Gamers Grass Tufts are very user friendly. Separated on the sheet by a clear line, easy to pick and apply. Once picked, they hold their shape. I could go on, but let’s just say they are a joy to work with.
Like with all product series not everything is perfect. Amongst the batch I purchased there are two products that not entirely hold up to the standards described above.
12mm Wild Winter Tuft is a bit too messy for my tastes. There’s not enough separation between particular tufts and there’s a lot of “leftover” coming off the tufts during use. It looks pretty dope once separated from the sheet, still I had issues separating particular tufts from one another.
Similarly Wild Spikey Green and Wild Spikey Beige Tufts are very messy to work with. Whereas they look insanely cool, it is very difficult to remove them from the sheet intact. They loose a lot of strands in the process.
Fortunately these issues doesn’t translate to the entire range, which for the most part is full of top quality, high end products.
Time to focus on the price. I’ve done some math comparing price of standard and “Wild” tufts from Gamers Grass, Games Workshop and Army Painter. Here’s where I’ve landed:
Easy to say that when it comes to price Gamers Grass beats it’s competition hard and that is a great news!
To summarize, when it comes to professional hobby tufts Gamers Grass is totally in the lead. The vast variety of unprecedented lush colors and types is by itself a good reason to try their offer out. To top it all there’s perfect pricing. On a scale where 10 is awesome, 8 is good, 6 is ok, 5 is mediocre, 3 is bad and I don’t want to even mention 1 – Gamers Grass Tufts get’s a well deserved 10/10. Even though few products had minor issues – The offer as entirety is super solid. I will definitely use these from now on and wholeheartedly recommend you to test it yourself.
You can order through Gamers Grass official store, or try out your luck in a local hobby store. To make things easier for you, Gamers Grass prepared this awesome Store Locator. So what are you waiting for? I invite you to, at the very least, take a peek at their offer 😉
Welcome to Painting Desert Bases tutorial. Here I will take you on a Step-by-step trip through the process of painting Desert Bases the same way as seen at: Gallery: Infinity USARF
Before we start, some notes:
Step one: Undercoat
I started with a lazy layer of Games Workshop Gorthor Brown. Any similar colour would do and the layer doesn’t need to be thorough.
Step two: Base texture
I applied a solid irregular layer of Games Workshop Agrellan Badlands with some points of Games Workshop Agrellan Earth on top.
Step three: Highlight
Next I drybrushed a layer of Games Workshop Karak Stone. Some pieces of cracked earth fell off, but that doesn’t matter in the long run.
Step four: Highlight
I drybrushed again, this time with Games Workshop Flayed One Flesh.
Step five: Tufts
I glued Paint Forge Steppe tufts on top of the bases, ensuring that any points where cracked earth fell off got covered.
Here’s how the finished base looks like. 
Welcome to Painting Marbe tutorial. Here I will take you on a Step-by-step trip through the process of painting marble the same way as seen at: Gallery: Horus Lupercal
Before we start, some notes:
Step one: Undercoat
I started with a solid layer of Vallejo German Red Brown. Any similar colour would do.
Step two: Base texture
For this step I used a life hack. I took few pieces of steel wool, taped them together and used them as a stencil. I then airbrushed pure white paint through the stencil and onto the bases.
Step three: Texture
Next I applied more layers of marble texture. This time I manually applied irregular stains of Army Painter Strong Tone Ink, waited half a minute then removed the paint with a paper towel. I then repeated the process once again applying and then removing excess Strong Tone Ink.
Step four: Sealing the colour
I then painted entire base with Army Painter Soft Tone Ink thinned with Games Workshop Lahmian Medium. I tried to keep the layer smooth and even.
Step five: Gloss
Finally I applied two layers of airbrushed Gloss Varnish. This resulted in a nice polished glossy look. Depending on the effect you aim for Gloss Varnish can be switched with either Satin ot pure Matt.
Here’s how the finished base looks like.
Note from the author: This tutorial is by far the most popular article on Scarhandpainting.com. It was first published in early 2016 and then refurbished exactly four years later. I hope you enjoy this new look and that the tutorial is now much easier to follow. Comments and Critique are welcome.
I see a model and I want it painted black
No colors anymore I want them to turn black
I see the minis go by painted in studio schemes
I have to turn my head until my darkness wins
I see a line of parts and they’re all painted black
With primer and my brush both never to come back
I see people turn their heads and quickly look away
Like a newby painter it just happens every day
I look inside myself and see my heart is black
I see my minis I must have them painted black
Maybe then I’ll wash away and not have to paint the lines
It’s not easy highlightin’, when your whole mini’s black…
Another twelve months and a wide range of awesome projects accomplished – all dim in face of the latest developments. My family is now four. Basia, my daughter, joined me, my wife Anna and our dog D.Va to form a quartet that will shake the world! Not your world of course – but mine… totally!
Thus this anniversary is sponsored by number four marking Scarhandpainting.com’s fourth birthday and a new era in my life.
For those of you wandering how an arrival of a young child impacts a commissioned miniature painter’s life I can only say this: Everything is turned upside down and any trace of a coherent painting routine is dead. I’m used to an empty house, clear mind and being a master of myself. Nowadays I still manage to paint, but it’s just totally different than before.
Back to miniatures – 2019 was a year of quality over quantity. I took on some really challenging projects and feel I learned a lot thanks to it. Last year tested my prowess as a painter and kept me switching between comfort zone and the unknown. I believe that constant self improvement is imperative in this line of work, and appreciate how 2019 abounded in opportunities for me to take bold steps. Looking back I can honestly say I feel accomplished as a hobbyist.
It’s cool to see that Scarhandpainting.com Blog popularity is holding up. With only 29 articles published hitting over 100k visits in last twelve months is a feat! This year I plan to revamp and update some of the old articles, as well as bring in new ones – all in hope to keep you peeps entertained! ;*
29 new articles showed up since previous anniversary. These are the ones you found to be the most interesting…
Colour Recipes: Infinity Aleph S.S.S.
Review: Guild Ball Legacy Collection (Resin) Mortician’s
“Infinity Cars” Special Project
Colour Recipes: Infinity Yu-Jing IS
…and unexpected TOP 3 of all time favorites:
TUTORIAL: PAINTING MARBLE 16k views!
TUTORIAL: INFINITY DIY CONSOLE 13k views
TUTORIAL: INFINITY ‘DO IT YOURSELF’ GAMING TERRAIN 8k views
Last year was fantastic! I enjoyed every bit of it and for this I would like to thank all of my friends and customers. You supported me, you gave me a job and let me live the way I love. That is the best gift a hobbyist like myself can hope for.
Special thanks to Sarah, Romana, Bettina, Michael, Andreas, Thomas, Max and Clemens. You guys humble me with your continuous support and trust.
I look forward to 2020 and all the cool stuff already scheduled. Some nice projects ahead so stay tuned and remember – if you want, or know someone who wants, to get miniatures painted – you know where to find me 😉
Here are some Colour Recipes for Sa’Cea Tau from Gallery: Tau Sa’Cea. Please take note that this is a simple colour scheme, not covering multiple overlapping layers and blends in between, that lead to the final product. It is supposed to be used as guideline not a step-by-step.
BLUE armour:
French Blue (Val), *
Ultramarine Blue (Val), *
Mix Ultramarine Blue (Val) 5:2 Light Sea Blue (Val), *
Black Wash For Dark Vehicles (Val), *
Hoeth Blue (GW), l&p
Glacier Blue (Val), l&p
GREY:
Dark Panzer Grey (Val), *
Cold Grey (Val), *
Wolf Grey (Val), l&p
Dark Tone Ink (AP), blend
ORANGE:
Macharius Solar Orange (GW),
Fire Dragon Bright (GW),
Elf Skintone (Val), l&p
GREEN OSL:
Duck Egg Green (Val), *
Light Livery Green (Val), *
Ivory (Val), l&p
SKIN:
Shadow Grey (GW),
Mix Shadow Grey (GW) 1:1 Frostbite (P3),
Mix Shadow Grey (GW) 1:2 Frostbite (P3), drbr
Frostbite (P3), Soft drbr
l&p – lines and points,
p – points,
bl – blend,
gl – glaze,
drbr – drybrush,
fltbr – flatbrush,
lobr – loaded brush,
stpl – stippling,
*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)
