Here are some Colour Recipes for Blood Bowl Black Orcs team from Gallery: Thunder Valley Paleskins. Please take note that this is a simple colour scheme, not covering multiple overlapping layers and blends in between, that lead to the final product. It is supposed to be used as guideline not a step-by-step.
PALE skin:
Mix: Tan (val) 1:3:3 Flesh (val a), Squid Pink (val a), *
Flesh (val a), *
Pale Flesh (val a), *
Mix: Volupus Pink (gw) 1:5 Glaze Medium (gw),
Mix: Volupus Pink (gw) 1:5:1 Glaze Medium (gw), Purple Tone Ink (ap), deep lines
Mix: Volupus Pink (gw) 1:5:1 Glaze Medium (gw), Red Tone Ink (ap), deep lines
Pale Flesh (val), l&p
METAL armour:
Warplock Bronze (gw),
Gun Metal (ap),
Shining Silver (ap), l&p
Mix Strong Tone Ink (ap) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (ap),
Shining Silver (ap), l&p
RED armour:
Red Terracotta (val), stpl
Flat Red (val), stpl
Strong Tone Ink (ap),
Orange Fire (val), stpl
Flat Red (val), bl
BROWN belts & strips:
Red Terracotta (val),
Pallid Wych Flesh (gw), flbr
Off White (val), l&p
Mix: Scorched Brown (val) 1:1:1 Dark Fleshtone (val), Medium,
Mix: Strong Tone Ink (ap) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (ap),
GREY clothes:
Panzer DK. Grey (val),
Fenrisian Grey (gw), flbr
Pallid Wych Flesh (gw), l&p
Strong Tone Ink (ap),
Off White (val), l&p
BASES:
Dark Earth (ak texture),
Karak Stone (gw), drbr
Flayed One Flesh (gw), flbr
l&p – lines and points,
p – points,
dl – deep lining,
bl – blend,
gl – glaze,
drbr – drybrush,
fltbr – flatbrush,
lobr – loaded brush,
stpl – stippling,
*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)
Welcome to Painting Blood Bowl Bogenhafen Barons tutorial. Here I will present to you a Step-by-step of an easy and fast painting process for Games Workshop Bogenhafen Barons as can be seen in Gallery: Bogenhafen Barons.
Before we start, some notes:
Step one: Undercoat
I started with a thorough layer of Games Workshop Chaos Black spray. This is a standard procedure for me. Chaos Black spray is my go to choice when it comes to undercoat.
Step two: Cream
I started by airbrushing Vallejo Bonewhite (air) all over feathers and clothes of the miniature, not caring if I mess up everything around. Paint was applied straight out of bottle, no dilution. I then moved to GW Pale Wych Flesh and
Flatbrushed it over previous layer. This layer was meant to build volume of paint and just a bit of highlight for the color, so that further ahead Wash could do a better job.
Step three: Grey
I applied Vallejo Air Panzer Dark Grey (air) manually, with natural dilution (air series). This paint is easy to control which helped me keep the layer precise. The color wasn’t strong but this layer didn’t had to. It was meant to prepare a background for future highlights of dark black-to-brown elements. Next I used slightly diluted Vallejo Glacier Blue and flatbrushed it over previous layer. Finally I applied few highlights with GW Pale Wych Flesh.
Step four: Skin
I begun painting skin with Vallejo Tan by applying a thin layer and concentrating on filling recesses. I added another thin layer on large flat areas to provide a solid color. Next I switched to GW Dwarf Flesh covered previous layer using flatbrush technique. Final highlights were made with Vallejo Flesh (air). I used the paint straight out of the bottle and applied it on the edges and on top of flat areas.
Step five: Browns
I took on Browns by manually applying Vallejo Dark Fleshtone (air) onto everything to-be-brown. Natural air series dilution allowed me to control the paint and avoid messing up other layers. I then switched to GW Karak Stone and Flayed One Flesh for classic highlights. Just few lines and dots on the edges and in center areas.
Step six: Metal
I started metal with GW Warplock Bronze, applying a thinned down layer on top of armor pieces. I then moved to P3 Molten Bronze for flatbrushed highlights. Finally I applied few highlights with AP Shining Silver.
Step seven: Violet
I applied a layer of Vallejo Violet on chosen parts of clothes and decorations. This was the last layer before wash so I ensured it didn’t leave a mess on top of previous elements. At this point of the paint job, anything could still be corrected with minimum effort, and I done so accordingly.
Step eight: Wash
This is where magic always happens. I applied a wet layer of AP Strong Tone Ink mixed with a tiny bit of Matt Varnish, onto entire miniature. I then ensured to remove any excess paint, from where detail got completely covered by pigmentation, with a clean brush.
Step nine: Highlights
Once wash dried up, I applied highlights of GW Pale Wych Flesh. Edge highlights, points of focus and lines in the middle areas for everything not metal or skin. I also applied a strongly thinned down layer of Pale Wych Flesh on top of Purple clothes creating a somehow mist-like effect.
Step ten: Purple
I then got back to violet (now more of a purple) and blended a layer of Vallejo Warlord Purple (air) on top of it. Air series does not require any thinning, but I added a bit of medium to leave texture difference visible underneath. With a strong and vibrant color I moved to Vallejo Pale Flesh for both an edge highlight and some random lines. I used this opportunity to add few dots and lines on top of skin, thus providing a final highlight.
Step eleven: Belts
To make the belt stand out I applied Vallejo Panzer Dark Grey (air) on top and highlighted with Vallejo Ghost Grey.
Step twelve: Final touches
After painting eyes and correcting small mistakes I finally based the miniature. I used AK Interactive Dark Earth for texture and drybrushed GW Karak Stone all over it. I then added a gentle drybrush of GW Flayed One Flesh to finally airbrush a straight line of pure white. To add some extra features I glued Gamers Grass 2mm Tiny Dry Tufts. Job complete.
I hope you find this tutorial interesting. Be sure to let me know your thoughts in the comments below or via Facebook.or Instagram. I would also appreciate if you considered sharing this content with your friends, who might find it useful. Finally if you are looking for a professional miniatures painting service be sure to contact me with this contact form. I always reply within 24 hours, after which please check out your spam folder.
Here are some Colour Recipes for Kings of War: Armada Empire of Dust from Gallery: Armada Empire of Dust. Please take note that this is a simple colour scheme, not covering multiple overlapping layers and blends in between, that lead to the final product. It is supposed to be used as guideline not a step-by-step.
GREY hulls:
Panzer Dark Grey (val), *
Cold Grey (val), *
Mix: Strong Tone Ink (ap) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (ap),
Medium Sea Grey (val), drbr
Ghost Grey (val), drbr
BRIGHT BROWN decks:
Khaki (val), *
Flayed One Flesh (gw), flbr
Mix: Strong Tone Ink (ap) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (ap),
Flayed One Flesh (gw), l&p
WHITE sails:
Khaki (val), *
Wolf Grey (val), *
White (val), *
GOLD ornaments:
Tin Bitz (gw),
Molten Bronze (p3), flbr
Shining Metal (ap), l&p
Mix: Strong Tone Ink (ap) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (ap),
Shining Metal (ap), l&p
BLUE ornaments:
Magic Blue (val),
Electric Blue (val), flbr
Glacier Blue (val), l&p
Blue Tone Ink (ap),
Glacier Blue (val), l&p
PINK Flames:
Warlord Purple (val),
Mix: Warlord Purple (val) 2:1 Off White (val), flbr
Off White (val), l&p
Purple Tone Ink (ap), wash
l&p – lines and points,
p – points,
dl – deep lining,
bl – blend,
gl – glaze,
drbr – drybrush,
fltbr – flatbrush,
lobr – loaded brush,
stpl – stippling,
*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)
Welcome to Painting KoW Armada Dwarf Fleet tutorial. Here I will present to you a Step-by-step of an easy and fast painting process for Mantic’s Armada Dwarfs as can be seen in Gallery: Armada Dwarfs.
Before we start, some notes:
Step one: Undercoat
I started with a thorough layer of Games Workshop Chaos Black spray. This is a standard procedure for me. Chaos Black spray is my go to choice when it comes to undercoat.
Step two: Armor
I painted entire ship with slightly thinned Games Workshop Warplock Bronze. Once Warplock Bronze dried I flatbrushed entire miniature with Army Painter Gun Metal followed by another flatbrush, this time Army Painter Shining Silver. Finally I painted few elements with P3 Blighted Gold.
Step three: Red
Next I added some color to the ship by painting roof and side balcony elements with Vallejo Burnt Red which was in turn highlighted with a single layer of Vallejo Flat Red.
Step four: Wash
I richly applied Army Painter Strong Tone Ink onto entire miniature. The paint might be glossy depending on particular pot you got. I recommend adding just a bit of Matt Varnish before use.
Step five: Highlights
With wash dried out nicely I applied a layer of Vallejo Flat Red in most exposed red areas. I then followed with edge highlights and few lines/dots of Games Workshop Lugganath Orange. I then done the same for gold except I used GW Auric Armour Gold. For silver I went back to Army Painter Shining Silver, highlighting few exposed spots and edges.
Step six: Front slots
I decided to add additional touch to the front of the ship, by painting two frontal slots blue. I done this by applying a layer of thinned GW Fenrisian Grey and then a wash of GW Contrast Ultramarines Blue.
Step seven: Basing
In simple terms I followed my own tutorial for Armada Basing, that you may find HERE, except I used standard hdf bases painted with a single layer of Vallejo UK Mediteranean Blue, followed by standard AK Interactive Pacific Blue, AK Interactive Water Effect and AK Interactive Water Foam textures.
I hope you find this tutorial interesting. Be sure to let me know your thoughts in the comments below or via Facebook. I would also appreciate if you considered sharing this content to any groups or forums, where it might help someone paint their miniatures. Scarhandpainting is not just about professional miniatures painting service. I do my best to provide interesting tutorials and share my experience with other hobbyists.
Welcome to Painting 15mm Imperial Romans tutorial. Here I will present to you a Step-by-step of an easy and fast painting process for 15mm scale Imperial Romans.
Before we start, some notes:
Step one: Undercoat
I undercoated the miniature with Games Workshop Chaos Black spray followed by few manually applied corrections. Any black undercoat will do, I just prefer this one over any and all other.
Step two: Armor
I painted entire miniature with slightly thinned Games Workshop Warplock Bronze. This layer does not need to be precise, or smooth. What counts is for paint to flow into all recesses and deep areas. Next I flatbrushed entire miniature with Army Painter Gun Metal. The layer looks nasty, but it does not have to be perfect, especially in places where other colors will cover it up later on.
Step three: Red
Next I moved to red, painting main shield area and clothes with Vallejo Burnt Red. Vallejo Flat Red followed on the same areas. I deliberately left some spots of previous layer visible on the shield and in deep areas of the cloth.
Step four: Skin
With larger scale miniatures I usually start skin much darker, but for such tiny detail I decided to go with a strong layer relatively medium skin tone of Games Workshop Ratskin Flesh. I then highlighted few spots with Vallejo Flesh.
Step five: Brown
To keep brown elements more interesting I started dark with Vallejo Mahogany, highlighted with Vallejo Beasty Brown. I then used Games Workshop Karak Stone for final highlight – just few dots and lines in most accessible areas.
Step Six: Wash
I used a mix of Army Painter Strong Tone Ink 1:1 Army Painter Soft Tone Ink and applied it onto entire miniature.
Step seven: Final Highlights
I went back to Vallejo Flat Red and applied few lines on the edges of the cloth, then stippled a bit on the shield. I also put tiny dots of Games Workshop Lugganath Orange in few exposed spots to add extra focus to the miniature, once deployed on the gaming board.
For armor I used Army Painter Shining Silver painted on the edges of the shield and in few spots across the miniature.
Finally I put tiny dots of Games Workshop Flayed One Flesh on browns and skin.
Step eight: Basing
For basing I decided to go easy. First I applied AK Interactive Dark Earth taking extra care to cover any visible height difference areas. Once dry, I drybrushed entire base with Games Workshop Karak Stone. Gamers Grass tiny tufts, finally black edges – the miniatures were complete.
… and that’s it! A bit messy, but once on the board it really catches attention.
I hope you find this tutorial interesting. Be sure to let me know your thoughts in the comments below or via Facebook. I would also appreciate if you considered sharing this content to any groups or forums, where it might help someone paint their miniatures. Scarhandpainting is not just about professional miniatures painting service. I do my best to provide interesting tutorials and share my experience with other hobbyists.
Once again I invite you to follow Grenzer Games on Facebook and definitely visit their online store to see more awesome products.
Additionally if you are planning to grab same paints I used in this tutorial via Amazon, please consider using links below. I am a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program and it would help me a lot.
Games Workshop Chaos Black spray
Games Workshop Warplock Bronze
Games Workshop Lugganath Orange
Games Workshop Flayed One Flesh
Grenzer Games – a small, UK based games development company, specializing in miniature wargames. Thanks to their generosity I was able to lay my hands on a batch of recently released 15mm Imperial Romans. I took these on a spin from bubble envelope to battle ready and now I will share my impressions with you.
Right off the bat the miniatures look amazing. With rich, crisp detail these are nothing close to what I have ever seen in such scale. Furthermore the miniatures are well proportioned. Great quality overall.
… and I know, I know. I too am sentimental towards hand sculpted metal miniatures, but just look at that detail! Such visual coherency of scale! Insane!
15mm Imperial Romans come in two versions: As a downloadable pre supported STL files, or 3d printed miniatures. I received a pack of eight printed miniatures. Mounted on print supports they were able to withstand shipping from United Kingdom in a bubble envelope without any damage and with no bent elements. Cutting off the supports was very easy and even though 3d printed miniatures took a soapy bath before painting, the process was nothing close to a pain of removing flash and mold lines, so common amongst metal counterparts. Full preparation took less than 15 minutes, which compared to working with metal is near to nothing.
Material itself is smooth and easy to work with. Miniatures are a bit elastic and seem durable and forgiving. I tested one “Pilum” to the limit, breaking it in half as a result. It was easy to repair, even though I broke it six times in different places throughout the process. Similar treatment would see a metal counterpart require replacement, whereas 3d print can be glued back to your heart’s content.
Finally painting over this material went smooth and without any issues. Joy to work with.
At a price of 3,75GBP for a Legionary pack containing 8 miniatures and 2,35GBP for a Command Pack containing 5 miniatures, Grenzer Games product is priced on par with metal counterparts from other suppliers. Considering how detailed and easy to work with these miniatures are I would say they’re a steal!
Grenzer Games did a fantastic job providing well proportioned, top quality miniatures with fantastic detail. Very easy to work with, joy to paint. To top it all off 15mm Imperial Romans come reasonably priced! I fully recommend this product and will definitely keep an eye out for updates of the entire range.
Stay tuned for an upcoming step-by-step tutorial on painting 15mm Imperial Romans and in the meantime I invite you to follow Grenzer Games on Facebook and definitely visit their online store to see more products.
Here are some Colour Recipes for Infinity Haqqislam from Gallery: Quapu Khalqi. Please take note that this is a simple colour scheme, not covering multiple overlapping layers and blends in between, that lead to the final product. It is supposed to be used as guideline not a step-by-step.
BLACK/GREY outfits & weapons:
Black Undercoat,Panzer DK Grey (Val),
Panzer DK Grey (Val a), *
Barely Grey (Val a), *
Wolf Grey (val a), flbr
Pallid Wych Flesh (GW), l&p
Dark Tone Ink (AP), wash
Pale Wych Flesh (GW), l&p
Off White (Val), p
TURQUOISE armor:
Coal Black (P3),
Hydra Turquoise (AP), flbrMix Hydra Turquise (AP) 5:1 Pale Wych Flesh
GW), flbr
Arcane Blue (P3), l&p
Coelia Greenshade (GW), wash
Pale Wych Flesh (GW), l&p
Off White (Val), p
SKIN:
Carne Marron Tan (Val), Flow
Dwarf Skin (Val a),
Flesh (Val a), l&p
Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),
Flesh (Val a), l&p
Pale Flesh (Val), l&p
BROWN elements:
Black/Grey outfits base,
Mix Hull Red (Val a) + Soft Tone Ink (AP), blend
Karak Stone (GW), l&p
Flayed One Flesh (GW), l&p
GREEN osl:
Olive Green (Val),
Duck Egg Green (Val a), * / standard
Pale Wych Flesh (GW),
Light Livery Green (Val a),
MARTIAN BASES:
German Red Brown (Val),
Martian Ironcrust (GW t),
Martian Ironearth (GW t),
Orange Fire (Val), drbr
AP Mountain Tufts & Paint Forge Steppe Tufts 12mm
l&p – lines and points,
p – points,
dl – deep lining,
bl – blend,
gl – glaze,
drbr – drybrush,
fltbr – flatbrush,
lobr – loaded brush,
stpl – stippling,
*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)
Removing Flash and Seam Lines – a pain of a task, yet such important one. You can be a painting god, but all your fancy brush work will be ruined if miniature wasn’t prepared properly. Running a miniatures painting service I have prepared thousands of miniatures. Below I will share with you some tricks I learned along the way.
Before we start, the usual note
I know, I know – theory is such a pain – “where are real life examples?!”. I will keep this short and easy.
Hobby Knife:
A Hobby Knife is my go to, when it comes to Seam Lines removal. When using a Hobby Knife I hold it in the fold of all fingers, except for thumb, which will be used to support a miniature and allows me for better control over the knife itself. I don’t want to cut myself so I tilt the blade about 45 degrees outwards from the thumb. This also prevents smooth surface from being scrapped (and roughed) by the sharp edge. Tiny consecutive movements are better than one smooth movement, unless I deal with long smooth areas. Somewhere in the middle of the blade is my sweet spot for cleaning accessible Seam Lines.
When dealing with sharp recesses, I put the edge inside, tilt it and go back along one edge, then do the same for the other side. Again I use the middle of the blade (if possible) to do this.
When dealing with rounded elements like inside of a wheel, or in a fold of a cloak, I switch the angle so that the blade faces direction of movement. I then make sure to hide my thumb behind the miniature and use the very tip of the blade to peel off the excess material. I do this with a single rounded movement of the blade.
Finally, when dealing with tiny rounded bumps (like fingers of a fist for example) I start with a single, light movement of a blade, then switch to a sharp edge file…
Hobby File:
I have a lot of Hobby Files, but when I think of it – only two of them are what matters. Fully Rounded and Triangle Sharp Edged.
Back to the example picture above, I use Triangle Sharp Edged file to make a single, long, smooth movement between each bump.
Finally Fully Rounded file is being used to smooth up any Mold Lines irregularities (when two halves of a miniature does not align properly).
Hobby Cutters:
These are pretty straightforward. I use them to cut pieces of miniatures off the sprues and to cut off any large chunks of excess material. One thing to remember is to align a flat side of the cutting edge with the area you want to cut stuff off from. This will keep the surface smooth.
Plastic: is the most common material one might face while toying with miniatures, so let’s start with this one. There are two main kinds of plastic. Standard Plastic, which can be colored, is a high quality durable and elastic material with crisp detail and no bubbles. Worst issues are mold halves not aligned properly, but this can usually be dealt with by applying more force to a hobby knife. I rarely use files to deal with plastic and prefer to work with Hobby Cutters ands Knife instead.
Board Game Plastic, which is a total gummy disaster and cannot be filed (leaves tiny strains) unless put to a refrigerator for couple of hours. My personal rule is to leave it be, bad material and I just do not prep it at all.
Resin: is the most problematic of the three main materials I have worked with. Resin is fragile, easy to break, tends to have hidden air bubbles plus it is common for mold halves to not be aligned properly. On top of that resin miniatures are sparkled with a lot of supports (tiny excess elements). On a bright side, a properly casted resin has a very sharp detail and texture, is easy to glue together if broken and can be modelled easy with a knife.
When dealing with resin I prefer Hobby Cutters and Knife over files, using the latter only in case of emergency.
Important note: wear a face mask when filing resin. You don’t want to breathe it in.
Metal: is pretty easy to work with. It is usually the softest of all three, can be bent easily, is very easy to file. I do prioritize Files over Knife when working with this material, except for long flat areas and fragile elements (swords etc.). Whereas scratches on plastic and resin are prominent, metal can be intentionally scratched with a tip of a File to remove Seam Lines from detailed surfaces like between hair and on a face.
Apart from pics, you can see me in action in this Youtube video:
Thanks for reading. If this tutorial helped you, be sure to let me know either in the comments below or at my facebook profile.
Please link this tutorial to anyone who likes to learn new hobby tricks.
Lastly I also invite you to follow me at Instagram, where I drop some nice pictures from time to time.
2020 right? How to even begin? I feel like 2020 was all about the extremes. I had my share of some of the worst and some of the best things to happen to me in my entire career. No middle ground. I was seriously considering sharing with you, dear readers, some of the sad stuff that I had to overcome last year, but scrapped the idea. We all had our share of weight to lift. I bet you’re fed up with sad stories. Let us focus on the bright side.
Being at once a dad and a commission painter is hardcore to say the least. I worked from home before it gone mainstream, you know… and I used to love it. Nowadays, with a one year old kiddo running around the place… I miss these 12 hours straight painting marathons. Was something primordial about it. This special mood, unbroken concentration – made me feel whole. It is in the past now. No longer being a master of my own time, somewhere along the road I lost my daily rhythm.
I had to paint this image before you, this emotional setting. Bare with me – it is in these conditions, that some of the most exciting, awesome works of my life came into being! Last year was full of variety, demanding display pieces, high level collections…you name it! All I could hope for as a painter and it really kept me going. Pushed me to the limit, but also helped me grow as a hobbyist, allowed me to focus on plans to improve my business. Finally, motivated me to explore brand new things.
Still I wouldn’t make it without help and support from amazing people I’ve met along the way.
And on that note I want to thank all of my customers and friends, who entrusted me with their miniatures. Especially: Andreas, Bettina, Clemens, Jek, Laurent, Max, Michael, Olo, Romana, Thomas – thank you for sticking with me and helping me stay on this path, I so recklessly chose to walk.
I’ve been such a scarhandpainting/blog slacker this last year. You know it’s true. With a one year old feeding on my sanity and scraps of free time, 16 articles is all I’ve got to show for entire 2020. So no kudos for me. That being said – huge kudos to you folks, for keeping the blog flying with over 140000 views, which is a lot more than last year! Seeing how popular the blog is makes me happy but also humbled. Thank you for reading and sharing my articles. It means a lot.
19 new articles got published. These are the ones you found the most interesting…
Tutorial: Kings of War Armada Islands
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Tutorial: Unlimited Painting Holders
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Colour Recipes: Shadespire Thorns of the Briar Queen
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Pragmatic part of me wants to say “survival”, “patience”. 2020 showed that even solid plans can go south pretty fast. It also showed that bad stuff might lead to some unexpected positive results. Dreamer part of me is all about “growth”, “perfecting”. Putting scarhandpainting logo on stickers, magnets and mugs, starting an Instagram account, was just a first step. I have grand plans. I want to surprise my customers and friends. I want to get better and evolve. There have been some issues my business was struggling for the past few weeks, but it’s behind now. A lot of things is already set in to motion. That’s all I can reveal for now. In the meantime the paint flows as usual and that’s what matters the most!
If by any chance you find yourself in need of a painter – do not hesitate to contact me at contact@scarhandpainting.com
Would also appreciate if you recommend me to your hobby friends who bring bare plastic to the gaming club – it keeps my paint flowing.
Cheers!
Welcome to Kings of War Armada Water Bases tutorial. Here I will take you on a Step-by-step trip through the process of creating and painting bases as can be found in the Gallery: Armada Basileans from Mantic Games Kings of War Armada.
Before we start, some notes:
I plan to go all-in with Mantic’s KoW: Armada. This means a lot of ships from across numerous fleets. To keep my bases easy to paint and visually coherent I decided to limit myself to some water effects and simple tricks. Instead of going through a lot of effort, trying to build multiple layers of transparent water, I switched out standard MDF bases for clear acrylics.
That doesn’t mean the method wouldn’t work with MDF’s. If you’d rather stick with Mantic’s bases – undercoat them white, then paint sides with some dark blue and you’d be ready to go. That being said, this method was developed with clear acrylic bases in mind so please take that into account when trying different approaches.
Without further ado, let’s get these bases wet!
I used:
Step one:
I used a large brush to apply AK Interactive Diorama Series: Pacific Blue Water Gel onto entire surface of the base. I then stippled a bit to create an uneven surface. Lastly I used a finger to remove the excess gel from the sides of the base.
Step two:
I repeated first step two more times, leaving the paint to dry between each repeat. This darkened the base significantly and resulten in a nice solid layer with a lot more detail on top of the first one.
Step three:
Once I was done painting ships I applied AK Interactive Pacific Blue Gel at the edges of each ship’s underside. I then followed with Super Glue through the middle and glued the ship on top of a base. Excess gel was queezed out and filled any holes between the ship and the base.
Step four:
I then applied more Pacific Blue Gel around the ship. It was a bit messy so I used a clean flat brush to move any excess gel from the ship’s sides and onto the base.
Step five:
Some time later I applied AK Interactive clear Water Gel effects around the ship. I used a small brush and slowly built the mass of splashing water at the front and on the sides of the ship. This time I didn’t care about messing up the hull.
Step six:
Next I applied AK Interactive Water Foam. Using a small brush I applied small dots of the effect on top of previous layer. This one is very white so I tried to avoid applying to much. Mistakes were removed with a clean flat brush – pushed into more tight lines, where necessary.
Step seven:
Lastly I mixed white paint, water and AK Interactive clear Water Gel effect and stippled a bit behind and around the ship to create a nice effect of dissolving water foam.
Task complete! The fleet is now sailing into the unknown. I hope you like this tutorial. For more pictures of finished fleet visit Gallery: Armada Basileans
Be sure to let me know your thoughts on the method either in the comments below or at my facebook profile.
Please link this tutorial to anyone who likes to learn new hobby tricks.
Lastly I also invite you to follow me at Instagram, where I drop some nice pictures from time to time.
All speed ahead and see you in the next article!