- contact@scarhandpainting.com
Welcome to Painting Twilight Kin Impaler tutorial. Here I will present to you a Step-by-step of an easy and fast painting process for this Armada ship as presented at the Gallery: Armada Twilight Kin.
This article is my second attempt at a painting tutorial uploaded in video format. You will find it at my YouTube channel and embedded below.
List of colors:
Vallejo Tinny Tin 72.060
Vallejo Hammered Copper 72.059
Vallejo Chainmail 72.053
Vallejo Silver 72.052
Vallejo Midnight Purple 72.116
Vallejo Midnight Purple Air 76.116
Vallejo Alien Purple Air 76.076
Vallejo Panzer Dark Grey Air 71.066
Vallejo Barbarian Skin 72.071
Vallejo Ghost Green Air 76.121
Vallejo Bile Green Air 76.122
Vallejo Off White 72.101
The Army Painter Strong Tone
I hope you find this article interesting. Be sure to let me know your thoughts in the comments below, or at Facebook or Instagram. I would also appreciate it if you considered sharing this content with your friends, who might find it useful. Finally if you are looking for a professional miniatures painting service, be sure to contact me with this contact form. I always reply within 24 hours, after which please check out your spam folder.
Here are some Colour Recipes for Kings of War: Armada Empire of Dust from Gallery: Armada Twilight Kin. Please take note that this is a simple colour scheme, not covering multiple overlapping layers and blends in between, that lead to the final product. It is supposed to be used as guideline not a step-by-step.
‘BROWN’ hulls:
Tinny Tin (Vallejo), *
Hammered Copper (Vallejo), flbr
Silver (Vallejo), flbr
-Strong Tone (The Army Painter), *strong
-Strong Tone (The Army Painter), *soft & dry
–Vallejo Poliurethane Matt Varnish, *
PURPLE sails:
Mix Midnight Purple (Vallejo air) 1:1 Midnight Purple (Vallejo), *
-Strong Tone (The Army Painter), *strong
-Strong Tone (The Army Painter), *soft & dry
Mix Midnight Purple (Vallejo air) 5:1 Alien Purple (Vallejo Air), *
Mix Midnight Purple (Vallejo air) 3:1 Alien Purple (Vallejo Air), *
Alien Purple (Vallejo Air), * soft zenithal highlight
–Vallejo Poliurethane Matt Varnish, *
GREEN osl:
Duck Egg Green (Vallejo Air), *
Pallid Wych Flesh (Games Workshop), flbr
Light Livery Green (Vallejo Air), *
Off White (Vallejo), l&p
Light Livery Green (Vallejo Air), bl
–Vallejo Poliurethane Matt Varnish, *
BASES:
Mix Ghost Green (Vallejo) 1:1 Ghost Green (Vallejo a),
Mix Ghost Green (Vallejo) 1:1 Ghost Green (Vallejo a),
Green Stuff World Splash Gel Water Effect Light Green Water,
AK Interactive Atlantic Blue Texture,
AK Interactive Pacific Blue Texture,
AK Interactive Water Foam Texture,
l&p – lines and points,
p – points,
bl – blend,
gl – glaze,
drbr – drybrush,
flbr – flatbrush,
stpl – stippling,
*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)
I hope you find this tutorial interesting. Be sure to let me know your thoughts in the comments below, or at Facebook or Instagram. I would also appreciate it if you considered sharing this content with your friends, who might find it useful. Finally if you are looking for a professional miniatures painting service, be sure to contact me with this contact form. I always reply within 24 hours, after which please check out your spam folder.
The Notts Hobbies is at it again! The UK based company debuted in the market last year with a set of Drybrushing tools and now they’ve expanded the range with a brand new Complete Weathering Set. I have been testing the new products for a while and am now ready to drop my take on them. Here’s my thoughts…
Similar to the Notts Hobbies Complete Drybrushing Set the new Complete Weathering Set consists of a range of useful items dedicated towards a certain area of miniature painting. The updated set contains 25ml Grime Oil Wash, 25ml Rush Oil Wash, 25ml Verdigris Oil Wash, Weathering Sponge Holder*, Heavy Weathering Sponges* (50pcs), Light Weathering Sponges (50pcs). Priced at 15,99GBP** and comprised of items worth over 20GBP total, the Complete Weathering Set is a steal!
*Included in previous Weathering Set
**you get 10% discount using code scarhand10 on checkout
This year I’ve decided to tap heavily into oil paints thus the addition of Oil Washes to Notts hobbies range was a great surprise. They came well thinned down, with heavy pigmentation and packaged in comfortable to use plastic containers. Designed to be used straight out of a bottle, mixed or further thinned down with white spirits. Once applied, they seem to dry much faster than alternatives, with a strong and vibrant finish. Personally I like the effect, but for those of you who’d like their verdigris a bit more green and rust a bit more dark – these can be mixed and combined with one another to achieve a variety of tones.
The addition of Light Sponges to the Complete Weathering Set is, in my opinion, a great move. I missed these in the previous version of the set and although I am capable of cutting some cubes out of a piece of foam, I appreciate nice looking, comfortable, pre-cut sponge cubes. Oh, and these literally come free included in the Complete Weathering Set so – I rest my case.
I’ve always had a great experience with Notts Hobbies products and the new Complete Weathering Set is no exception. If not for the fact I got it for free I would definitely order it myself, just for the washes. The Sponge Holder and 100pcs of Weathering Sponges is just a cherry on top for the price. This set seems like a great introduction to weathering with oil paints. If you’re on the fence about oils – I sincerely recommend giving the Complete Weathering Set a try. If you do – save 10% by using my affiliate link and the code scarhand10 on checkout.
I hope you find this review interesting and if you do – I would be extra happy if you tagged me at Facebook or Instagram and let me know your thoughts. I would also appreciate it if you considered sharing this content with your friends, who might find it useful. Finally if you are looking for a professional miniatures painting service, be sure to contact me with this contact form. I always reply within 24 hours, after which please check out your spam folder.
Welcome to Painting Trench Crusade New Antioch tutorial. Here I will present to you a Step-by-step of an easy and fast painting process for the Principality of New Antioch skin, a simplified version of what can be seen in Gallery: New Antioch.
Before we start, some notes:
Previous steps: Armor
Although metal elements can be painted separately I strongly recommend following part one of the article before moving to this color. All previous Trench Crusade content can be found at: GAMING/TRENCH CRUSADE.
Step one: Base Color
I have painted the initial layer with Vallejo Game Color – Tan (72.066). This is a rather thick paint, that I like to thin down before application.
Step two: Highlight
Next, I applied a large area flatbrush highlight of Vallejo Game Color – Anthea Skin (72.107). Another thick paint, but this time I used it right out of the bottle in order to increase coverage and build layer volume.
Step three: Highlight
I then applied a more contained highlight of Vallejo Game Color – Skin Tone (72.099), switching between edge highlight and flatbrush.
Step four: Wash
Similarly to previous painting tutorials, I applied a lot of The Army Painter – Strong Tone Wash. I actually used an airbrush for this, covering the entire miniature, but it might as well be done manually.
Step five: Final Highlight
Finally I applied strong highlight by stippling Skin Tone (72.099) onto the sharp edges, muscle groups and knuckles, making the color pop.
I hope you find this article interesting. Be sure to let me know your thoughts in the comments below, or at Facebook or Instagram. I would also appreciate it if you considered sharing this content with your friends, who might find it useful. Finally if you are looking for a professional miniatures painting service, be sure to contact me with this contact form. I always reply within 24 hours, after which please check out your spam folder.
Watching the miniatures hobby industry from within for over two decades can definitely yield a few observations, such as what trends dominate the current period. If I was to pick one it would definitely be “all-in-one”, starting with portable painting stations, transportation cases and hobby tools aimed to help artists that might struggle with limited space. Nowadays I am more of a sedentary type of a hobbyist, but I used to work in a hobby store and travel quite a lot, carrying my hobby around. All that to say that regardless of my current situation I can appreciate easy to transport, modular hobby solutions. One of which, the All-In-One Modular Art Box by KRYDRUFI, I would like to present to you in this article.
KRYDRUFI EU & UK
KRYDRUFI USA
KRYDRUFI AU
Long story short, I was recently contacted by KRYDRUFI asking if I would like to test out the All-In-One Modular Art Box, to which I agreed. The item arrived in good condition a few days later, all the way from China. I’m a sucker for the high aesthetic value of packaging both overall and of each individual piece and the first impression was great.
The All-In-One Modular Art Box comes with a variety of functionality. It usually consists of
* Large two-chambers Water Bucket,
* Two separate Water Tanks equipped with Silicone Brush Cleaning Inserts,
* A total of four Brush Holders,
* Two Airtight Paint Storages,
* Two Wet Palettes with a 5mm Sponge and Disposable Palette Paper supply,
After taking the All-In-One Modular Art Box outside and painting miniatures in the garden, I can genuinely say that I am impressed by the plethora of functionality squeezed into this single, relatively small product.
As someone used to working long painting sessions, I am especially fond of a large Water Bucket. Thanks to the separation through the middle, the Water Bucket, combined with two Water Tanks, results in less time spent on replacing dirty water and more time spent on actual painting.
Probably the most ingenious of the entire set are the Brush Holders, especially the two with small containers at the bottom. No need to worry about messing up the table in a hotel with a dripping wet brush – these puppies have you covered!
Two Brush Cleaning Inserts are a cherry on top. Not everyone will appreciate them, but I’m one of those painters for whom this is a perfect brush cleaning solution.
Finally, all these things fit into the Water Bucket to get carried as a whole, or just save space on the workbench between projects. A brilliant idea designed to make best use of the limited work space – what’s not to love about it?
Apart from the obvious, being able to adjust the number of lower modules and then stack them via special side clamps to carry the whole thing around is just brilliant. I can easily imagine combining two sets into one giant stack, while leaving one fully equipped upper part on the in-house workbench. As for the clamps, they are pretty hard to unlock and I am not sure as to how they would perform in the long run. Plastic seems somewhere between brittle and solid, only time will show if it loosens up or breaks.
For those of us pre-planning the paint job, the Airtight Paint Storage is a perfect solution to save space on travel via pouring a bit of each required paint into an individual slot, instead of carrying each bottle separately. Can also be used to great effect to sort and storage small parts. It is relatively easy to clean as well.
Last but not least, I don’t know about you, but me personally – I love to keep particular tools well organized and in one place. I would imagine the stackable Wet Palettes will suit multiple painting projects perfectly and save space on the working bench. Not to mention spare paper clipped on top and in between the Palettes, rather than kept separately.
The set comes equipped with a Highly Moisturizing Sponge for each Wet Palette and a stack of Disposable Palette Paper. The quality of both seem on par with items from other suppliers I worked on previously. They seem to be pretty durable, but can also be resupplied from the KRYDRUFI online store if needed.
In my opinion the KRYDRUFI All-In-One Modular Art Box embodies the All-In-One aspect completely, offering a variety of functionality and modularity. Most importantly it comes in a very compact, space saving form, which for many might be the deal breaker. The price varies between $20 USD for the entire upper module (KRYDRUFI Cleaning* Brush Holder Module) to about $46 USD for the full set (KRYDRUFI All-In-One Modular Art Box Ultra). The KRYDRUFI All-In-One Modular Art Box seems like a perfect solution for artists who may struggle with limited space or budgets, and the difficulty of organizing tools of various sizes. The Low price point of the product for what it brings to the table makes it even better. So if you are one of the hobbyists who’d like to keep their tools well-organized and easily accessible, then in my opinion the KRYDRUFI All-In-One Modular Art Box is the way to go.
The item is available directly from KRYDRUFI online store and you can get a 15% discount by using my link and the code scar15 on checkout, or automatically by following one of the links below. More so, if you do, I will get a small commission thus not only will you save but also support my little hobby endeavor. Seems like a win-win.
KRYDRUFI EU & UK online store
KRYDRUFI USA online store
KRYDRUFI AU online store
I hope you find this review interesting. Be sure to let me know your thoughts in the comments below, or at Facebook or Instagram. I would also appreciate it if you considered sharing this content with your friends, who might find it useful. Finally if you are looking for a professional miniatures painting service, be sure to contact me with this contact form. I always reply within 24 hours, after which please check out your spam folder.
Welcome to Painting Trench Crusade New Antioch tutorial. Here I will present to you a Step-by-step of an easy and fast painting process for the Principality of New Antioch metal as can be seen in Gallery: New Antioch.
Before we start, some notes:
Previous steps: Armor
Although metal elements can be painted separately I strongly recommend following part one of the article before moving to this color. All previous Trench Crusade content can be found at: GAMING/TRENCH CRUSADE.
Step one: Base Color
I have painted the initial layer with Vallejo Game Color – Tinny Tin (72.060). This relatively thin color is easy to move into any recesses, but also maintains a strong coverage. Can be thinned down ever so slightly if needed.
Step two: Highlight
Next, I applied a large area flatbrush highlight of Vallejo Game Color – Chainmail (72.053). A much brighter steel color with strong pigmentation that covered most of the surface, except recesses. I deliberately used flatbrushing rather than drybrushing, to build volume and prepare the surface for incoming washes.
Step three: Highlight
I then applied a more contained highlight of Vallejo Game Color – Silver (72.052), switching between edge highlight and flatbrush.
Step four: Wash
Next I applied a lot of The Army Painter – Strong Tone Wash. I like to go hard on washes, applying lots and lots of them to allow for pigmentation to do its thing. I actually used an airbrush for this, covering the entire miniature, but it might as well be done manually.
Step five: Final Highlight
Finally I applied soft highlight by stippling semi-moist Vallejo Game Color – Silver (72.052) onto the sharp edges and most exposed areas of metal. This might work especially good for tiny detail such as chainmail, but also large areas that lack color diversity.
I hope you find this article interesting. Be sure to let me know your thoughts in the comments below, or at Facebook or Instagram. I would also appreciate it if you considered sharing this content with your friends, who might find it useful. Finally if you are looking for a professional miniatures painting service, be sure to contact me with this contact form. I always reply within 24 hours, after which please check out your spam folder.
I’ve been having a blast playing on the Silesian Trenchline scenery set for the last two weeks. Spoiler Alert: The set has been completed for quite some time now. That out of the way, let’s rewind a bit and get right back to where I left in the Silesian Trenchline part two article. That would be the undercoat…
In order to save time I prefer to get everything built first, then apply undercoat wholesale. This is where two 2×4′ folding tables and a set of thin HDF trays tends to come in handy. I go one tray / large piece at a time, spraying black undercoat where it’s required. I then set the tray on one of the tables and get another one. Once out of free space, I stack the trays on top of the previous layer, using small plastic cups as supports with a minimal point of contact. Fifteen minutes later everything’s nicely black.
For the painting process I went with a trusted, simple color scheme. The goal of which was to produce effective results while being easy to repeat across the entire set or to return to with any new scenery additions in the future (Such as the Antenna Cross added later on).
The core list of paints and a video tutorial following each step of the painting process can be found at Tutorial: Painting Trench Crusade Antenna Cross.
Easy to say the painting process was much faster than the building and modeling part. One to two hours of airbrushing followed by a few more hours spent on detailing. Finally a break after applying the AK Interactive Dark Earth texture on top of each piece, to come back another day and finish with a round of drybrush, apply varnish, add a few dozen Gamers Grass Brown 2mm tufts and call it done.
Although the Silesian Trenchline was complete and I had a few games on the set, the inspirational release never came. A few days later I still felt hunger for more Trench Crusade scenery for my tiny dudesmen to explore. The set felt complete and was pretty playable, but upon giving it more thought I figured to double down on some fancy centerpieces – or at least fancier than the ones I already had…
First, I added the probably most iconic Trench Crusade scenery piece – the Antenna Cross. I used a widely available STL with a few tweaks to increase playability and set the piece within my existing scenery set visual cues. A large wooden step around the base of the cross with a small sniper’s nest mid way up the cross and some Sandbags here and there made it work. I felt sated for the day…
The very next day, I had to come back to the project for another round. Got super inspired with a set of DIY objective markers seen at a local Discord – just had to make a set of my own. Nothing special, just a mix of resized 3d printed weapons, crates, ammunition and candles. I threw in a Meshmixered statue of Saint Karen – Patron of Supplies Acquisition, for a strongly themed secondary centerpiece.
Done in two hours, with a bit more work put into making the objective markers pop on the gaming board, finally put my scenery hunger to rest. For now…
This is it. The Silesian Trenchline is now ‘fully’ completed, ready to be fed the blood of plastic fighters. Will it ever get expanded? Maybe, but I already moved on to more projects, including half a dozen commissioned lightweight Trench Crusade scenery sets. I also feel like putting a lot more games in, before deciding what scenery might improve the playability on the Silesian Trenchline. If you have any fun ideas – be sure to drop them in the comments below. Until then – keep your helmets on!
hope you find this article interesting. Be sure to let me know your thoughts in the comments below, or at Facebook or Instagram. I would also appreciate it if you considered sharing this content with your friends, who might find it useful. Finally if you are looking for a professional miniatures painting service, be sure to contact me with this contact form. I always reply within 24 hours, after which please check out your spam folder.
Welcome to Painting Trench Crusade Antenna Cross tutorial. Here I will present to you a Step-by-step of an easy and fast painting process for this outstanding piece of scenery as presented at the Gallery: Silesian Trenchline.
This is the first time I uploaded a full video painting tutorial and I hope regular visitors won’t mind the change of the format. I am not planning on switching to video format completely. You can expect more written articles to pop up in the future 😉
List of colors:
Games Workshop Chaos Black Spray
Games Workshop Flayed One Flesh
Vallejo Panzer Dark Grey 74.603
Vallejo Grey RLM02 71.044
Vallejo Cold Grey 72.750
Vallejo Tinny Tin 72.060
Vallejo Medium Sea Grey 70.870
Vallejo Barbarian Skin 72.071
Vallejo Barbarian Skin 76.071
Vallejo Chainmail 72.053
Vallejo Ghost Grey 72.046
The Army Painter Grim Black
The Army Painter Strong Tone
AK Interactive Dark Earth texture
AK Interactive Light Rust wash
AK Interactive Streaking Grime
Gamers Gras 2mm Brown Tufts
I hope you find this article interesting. Be sure to let me know your thoughts in the comments below, or at Facebook or Instagram. I would also appreciate it if you considered sharing this content with your friends, who might find it useful. Finally if you are looking for a professional miniatures painting service, be sure to contact me with this contact form. I always reply within 24 hours, after which please check out your spam folder.
It has been a few days in the grips of the Trench Crusade fever. The squad and I had a few games, and went deep into the no man’s land. With the construction of the Silesian Trenchline (part one) we have crossed the point of no return. In order to finish the scenery set and be able to play the game for real, an array of proper peripherals and extras had to be made. So here we are…
I kicked off with a set of most essential peripherals, being the walkways, ladders and firing steps. These are necessary to get the most out of the entire trench line. Fortunately they are also fast and easy to make.
For the walkways I used two thin pieces of 3mm thick plasticard to support the length and adhered some broken stirring sticks on top. I was considering cutting the sides to fit the ‘rails’ underneath but ended up liking the ramshackle look.
The ladders were made by gluing a few steps on top of two, precisely cut, stirring sticks. I then glued decorative halved balls to fake nails. Not very realistic, but a cheap additional detail to spice things up.
Finally I used the leftover sides of the XPS foam as the base for the firing steps. These got cut into 4″ and 6″ long pieces then covered with PVA glue and stirring sticks one side at a time. Once properly adhered, the stirring sticks got nipped off. The process was then repeated on another side until completed, resulting in a set of very light, but durable firing steps.
The Extras such as damaged barrels, stacks of ammo crates etc. are great to hinder miniatures movement and provide some additional cover on the board. Most importantly this type of scenery adds much needed detail to the composition and can be moved around easily for best visual results.
I used a bunch of 3d printed elements (full list at the bottom) and mounted them on a 3mm thick plasticard with cyanoacrylate glue. I then added some small gravel and poured thin cyanoacrylate on top, sealing it with an activator. This created extra texture and volume around the 3d printed objects. I then cut off the excess of the plasticard, forming an irregular shaped base for each piece. In my opinion this makes the scenery look less artificial and allows for individual pieces to be combined into larger shapes by siding them with one another.
The scenery set was taking shape, but it still lacked the most important thing – the ‘soul’. The Trench Crusade follows a certain artistic theme and I wanted to tap into it and create some memorable centerpieces. Elements of scenery not just to steal a glance or two, but seem significant on the gaming board. To try to achieve this goal I have built two shrines, by breaking and mixing 3d printed elements with stirring sticks. I then based both of them on 3mm plasticard, then combined them with two smallest pieces of the trench wall – both of which have a straight vertical space designed for this particular purpose. Gravel and super glue followed to build volume and texture.
No proper Trench Crusade board should be devoid of Bunkers and I have added three 3d printed pieces to the set. All properly based on 3mm thick plasticard and surrounded with extra details. I used this opportunity to introduce two rows of anti-tank fortifications to go alongside one of the bunkers, further enhancing the militaristic theme of the set.
In order to push the overall theme of the set one step further I glued a few dozen sandbag barricades along the trenches with the PVA glue. Initially I planned to keep these separate, but a few test games convinced me otherwise. The reduction of modularity was a fair price to pay for the decreased setup time, comfort of use and improved transportation.
With everything built and ready, the undercoat followed. A lengthy process of mounting every scenery piece on top of a tray with two sided tape, then spraying black undercoat all around. I do like my undercoat done right after all…
And with that out of the way the only thing left seem to be the painting process, but this I will leave for the next article – coming soon. In the meantime feel free to engage with me about this project at Scarhandpainting social media or down in the comments below. I’d be happy to chat 😉
List of used STL files:
Sandbags & Barrels by DICEVERSE
Bunkers by GRADDESIGN
Tanktraps by BIMBUSPRINTABLES
Cannon Ammunition Crates by MKHAND_INDUSTRIES
Cannon Shells by MKHAND_INDUSTRIES
Artillery by ALPINEWEISS3D
I hope you find this article interesting. Be sure to let me know your thoughts in the comments below, or at Facebook or Instagram. I would also appreciate it if you considered sharing this content with your friends, who might find it useful. Finally if you are looking for a professional miniatures painting service, be sure to contact me with this contact form. I always reply within 24 hours, after which please check out your spam folder.
The Trench Crusade got me my friends. Apart from the allure of the online hype, a lot of my buddies spent the last few weeks entrenched in mud, inviting me in. I gave up and fell victim to their plea for reinforcements. If you follow my blog for a while, you already know that when I get into a game I go all-in, thus here we are – I am making the Trench Crusade gaming board. Now put your helmets on and follow me into the Silesian Trenchline.
Usually, when planning a scenery set for miniatures wargaming, I start by making a rough sketch, or set up a provisional board to gauge how much scenery elements feel right. With the Trench Crusade, the community is wildly creative. Scrolling through some amazing examples of gaming boards online I got an idea of how much stuff there should be and how I’d like to approach things. I purchased a few pieces of 50mm thick Styrofoam (XPS foam), a large bottle of PVA glue, 1L of brown acrylic paint, few packages of thin wooden stirring sticks and got to work.
The core concept of the board was to have it modular, but not limited to square panels. The brilliant idea of creating trenches via stacking walled hills on top of the battlefield really spoke to me thus I went with that. I’m not one to sit down and precisely measure stuff and prefer to work fast and intuitively. The way I do things is cut a single piece of material, then use it as a measuring tool and cut the rest following the lines of the template and a piece of straight board or something currently at hand. I find minor lapse in precision working for the visual benefit and realism of the scenery set. This is what I did, cutting a single 4×4″ triangle and using it as a tool to mark core shapes in XPS. Once done I cut out the shapes with a wallpaper knife.
For the angled sides of the ‘hills’ I marked the top of each piece with a marker, following a previously cut piece of XPS about 1″ wide. This way I had the top of the slope, the supposed bottom being the actual edge of each piece. I then cut, focusing on holding the knife in a steady position and following the imaginable angle between the two lines, not caring if I made any slight errors on the way.
Once I had a few core shapes I set them up on a 4×4 gaming mat in order to see how the set ‘feels’ and how much I need to add to reach the goal.
I wanted to have my ‘trenches’ textured with something simple, but effective and look rough. I chose to go with gluing texture on top of the walls with PVA glue. For this I cut old wallpaper alongside a piece of badly damaged transportation paper into strips slightly wider than the height of the ‘walls’. Glued them one at a time on each scenery piece, then upon reaching the second round I used scissors to cut off the excess of the dried out piece, before adding another one beside it.
I then used a large synthetic brush and sealed everything with a mix of PVA glue and water. Left it to dry afterwards.
Once the scenery was completely dry, I used a portable gas burner to diversify the texture on top of each piece – done outdoors. I then used PVA glue to mount some roughly cut stirring sticks in semi regular intervals on the sides of the trenches. Finally, using Super Glue, I glued a lot of these 3d printed crosses on each wallpaper covered side, then cut the bottom excess using clippers. This provided a visually interesting setting composition with just enough detail to fit the world of the Trench Crusade, but not too much not to stand out from under the actual scenery.
The final step for the day was to seal everything again. I mixed water, PVA glue, brown acrylic paint and fine decorative sand then used it to apply texture on top of each piece. I then added a bit more paint and water into the mix and gave the sides a spin. With the help of my valiant daughter we’ve done another round just to build up volume and increase future durability of the scenery.
The pieces got stacked on top of one another and left to dry through the night, while I sat down to tinker with some extras, mainly walkways, ladders and trench platforms, but I will leave that for the upcoming Special Project: Silesian Trenchlines part two – Peripherals and Extras.
I hope you find this article interesting. Be sure to let me know your thoughts in the comments below, or at Facebook or Instagram. I would also appreciate it if you considered sharing this content with your friends, who might find it useful. Finally if you are looking for a professional miniatures painting service, be sure to contact me with this contact form. I always reply within 24 hours, after which please check out your spam folder.
