- contact@scarhandpainting.com
Sometimes all it takes for me to get inspired is a single piece of art. This was the case with the amazing piece from Trench Crusade, depicting the “Steel Necropolis” – a ravaged battlefield of derelict tanks.
The way this piece set the mood and told multiple stories contained within its frame made my heart race right from the get go. I wanted ruined tanks on my Trench Crusade gaming board and I wanted them ASAP!
The idea born from inspiration was not just to print and set up tanks on the Silesian Trenchline 2.0 gaming board, but rather to create individual pieces, set within the world of Trench Crusade, each telling its own little story. How did it get here? How was it transformed since? Maybe the tank’s crew survived and turned the wreck into a place of worship? Or maybe the crewmen all died in a pile of rubble within which the tank is buried still? My imagination ran wild with the ideas… but first I needed some actual tanks.
After an extensive research and scale comparison I found the tank Eldorado in the form of TANKS COLLECTION 1941-1945 – Soviet and German. Not only are these highly detailed, but also the hulls are extensively textured with damage. The files are also split into manageable parts such as the hulls, turrets and tracks, without multiple extras to clog the printing plate. These felt ideal for my purposes.
I rescaled a few by eyeing and comparing the size to standard Trench Crusade infantry, then went on about materializing all the ‘stories’ from my imagination.
When creating each individual piece I focused on a few key aspects:
In some cases the printing accidents happened and inspired a story on their own. Such as in this case, where more than a half of a tank was missing and the turret got severely warped. When it comes to waging war on hell itself, nothing goes to waste and so did the misprint.
A couple of tank wrecks I designed as standalone elevations. The purpose of the pair was to allow linking wide spread upper levels, on the gaming board, with walkways. It also was a good pretext to tell some completely out of the box stories with the wrecks, such as a tank turned entrance into an underground bunker/church.
There’s also this behemoth of a Sturmtiger turned into a multi level background piece with a small chapel used by traversing soldiers to casually drop an offering and speak a short prayer…
The last piece of the series is the Shrine of the Mother Penelope of Plenty Ordnance, set into the side of a trench and under a supported wreck of a small assault tank. Soldiers who survived a dud tend to gather the unexploded ordnance and set it within the shrine, not as gratitude for their own continued existence, but rather in order to preserve the ammunition for when it is needed elsewhere.
The seven wrecked tanks proved to be a challenge and took their toll on me, including an accidental blood sacrifice. Still the project managed to satisfy the art inspired craving I had for Steel Necropolis. Oh, and the gameplay became so much better one I added these to the board…
I hope you’ve found this article interesting. Be sure to let me know your thoughts in the comments at Facebook or Instagram. I would also appreciate it if you considered sharing this content with your friends, who might find it useful. Finally if you are looking for a professional miniatures painting service, be sure to contact me with this contact form. I always reply within 24 hours, after which please check out your spam folder.
In this tutorial I will show you how to paint a Trench Crusade Death Commando like a six years old, alongside my daughter – Basia.
This tutorial, is in video format. You can find it at Scarhandpainting YouTube chanel. Embeded video below:
List of paints & techniques:
Valeho Tinny Tin 72.060 – manual base layer,
Vallejo Hammered Copper – 72.059 sponge stippling,
Vallejo Silver – 72.052 sponge stippling,
Vallejo Sepia Wash – 73.200 – wash,
AK Interactive Light Rust Wash AK046 – wash,
Vallejo Ghost Green 72.121- manual base layer,
Vallejo Off-White 72.101- manual highlight,
Vallejo Black Green Ink 72.090 – wash,
Warhammer Blood for the Blood God – spongle stippling,
Basing:
K&K Hobby The Trenches & PVA glue,
Paint Forge Hollow Field 6mm tufts,
I hope you find this article interesting. Be sure to let me know your thoughts in the comments below, or at Facebook or Instagram. I would also appreciate it if you considered sharing this content with your friends, who might find it useful. Finally if you are looking for a professional miniatures painting service, be sure to contact me with this contact form. I always reply within 24 hours, after which please check out your spam folder.
Paint Forge is a well established hobby-related company from Poland. In the market since 2018 they are best known for their self-adhesive tufts and flowers (see Review). My personal experience with their range goes farther back to a time before I was a full time miniatures painter and the company was more of a local ‘underground’ tuft supplier. More than a decade later I am still using Paint Forge accessories including a fine array of airbrush stencils. Imagine my shock when I was contacted by them with an offer to test some of their latest releases!
A large box of goodies came in a few days later. Although it contained a lot more than tufts, including Resin and Laser Cut Plants, the 2mm Tuft series is what I would like to take on first. That plus a bonus 6mm tufts in a variety of original colors.
Straight out of the box the 2mm Tufts look impressive. The packaging is bleak, but the blisters containing tufts are thick and packed. There’s a recognisable mostly repetitive pattern depending on the type of product. A wide variety of colours too, of which I chose a few to present in the Review. The adhesive is thick and soft resulting in a strong bond – these are not the types of tufts that will fall off in a month. More so, a few decade old tufts I have are still in place and doing fine – a testament to the adhesive force. But there’s more – the soft adhesive allows to tear the larger tufts into smaller pieces, then again it can result in the tiniest tufts getting squished with tweezers. Depending on the size, applying these tufts might require a bit more precision to avoid damaging them, but can result in more control of the final shape. Overall good first impressions.
Paint Forge 2mm Tufts sit at about 5,20€ per pack of anything between 60 (Wild), through 162 and up to ~700 (Micro-Tufts). Here’s the immediate competition:
Gamers Grass – 5,40€ / ~115pcs (2mm tufts, about 25% less total coverage when comparing sheets)
The Army Painter – 7,49€ / 77pcs (6mm tufts, about 25% less total coverage when comparing sheets)
Green Stuff World – 5,80€ 4,93€ / 125pcs (2mm tufts, about 50% less total coverage when comparing sheets)
162 pcs of well formed, round tufts with a thick layer of glue. They come in 12 color variants compatible throughout the entire 2mm range, and are easy to work with.
~700pcs micro-tufts of varying sizes available in 12 color variants. A bit difficult not to ‘squish’ when taking off of the sheet, but there’s a lot of these tiny buggers to compensate.
I’ve counted roughly 60+ pcs of varying sizes and shapes, also available in 12 different colors that are this line’s staple. A thick layer of glue is great as adhesive. Be warned – the longest pieces have a tendency to rollup when taken off of the sheet, thus requiring a bit more care to apply.
140pcs of medium size, available in a variety of uncommon color combinations. Very comfortable to work with, including taking off of the sheet and applying on the bases.
Paint Forge is a solid company with a reasonably priced and wide range of tufts. The expansion of 2mm tufts series is a great step and the products definitely passed the practical test. The type of adhesive might feel like a nuisance, but in the hands of focused hobbyists it can also be a great tool allowing one to ‘bend the tufts to their will’. Most importantly these tufts hold onto the base like none other!
Probably the best would be at the source: Paint Forge Page, or one of the stores that decided to carry this line of products, such as Vanaheim.pl where you can save an additional 3% with a code Scarhand3 at checkout.
I hope you find this review interesting. Be sure to let me know your thoughts in the comments below, or at Facebook or Instagram. I would also appreciate it if you considered sharing this content with your friends, who might find it useful. Finally if you are looking for a professional miniatures painting service, be sure to contact me with this contact form. I always reply within 24 hours, after which please check out your spam folder.
Who doesn’t love to get some of them high quality brushes? I’ve been painting since the mid-90s and if experience taught me anything it is that there’s never enough brushes to go around with. Luckily, just when I was about to sweep the Internet in search of something new, that I could feed my brush hunger with, a package from Iron Keep came in. Inside there was a trio of Fine Sable brushes that I got to test. Here’s my honest review of the three.
All three Iron Keep brushes came packaged in separate plastic tubes, accompanied by instruction manuals. Each tip was lined perfectly and secured by a protective cover. Visually appealing, the brushes made a good first impression. An original choice of colors for sure – not really my cup of tea, but I wouldn’t stress over the color of the handles – it is the head of each individual brush that I’m most interested in. In this case the tips are sharp and flexible and bellies have just enough girth and length to my liking.
There’s a lot of brushes in the market that I could compare with Iron Keep Finest Sable. For the purpose of the review I decided to compare Iron Keeps with brushes I use on a daily basis. That would be:
Citadel (Warhammer) Artificer Series: 22€-32€, daVinci Maestro series 10 (much smaller belly): ~10€, Army Painter Masterclass (smaller tips): ~10€, Green Stuff World Silver Series (lower quality): 6-10€, W&N Series 7: 17€-25€
All sizes of the Iron Keep Finest Sable brushes are about 14€-15€ each, which might be more than cheaper and arguably lower quality alternatives, but also less than Citadel Artificer series and Winsor & Newton Series 7.
In order to be thorough I took all three brushes on a four days spin. I have used the trio almost exclusively for the entirety of the latest Warhammer 40,000 Genestealr Cults commission of over two dozen miniatures. All three brushes performed admirably under my typical rigorous routine. Take note that I do not care for brushes much. These are the tools of my trade and as such, are required to carry a burden of all kinds of paints including washes, metallic pains, textures and varnishes. Not only did the Iron Keep Finest Sable emerge victorious, but I have no bad things to say about the performance. The brushes behaved just like I would imagine from other mid-high end hobby brushes.
When it comes to comfort of work and belly/tip behavior, Iron Keep overperformed compared to Green Stuff World Silver Series, DaVinci and The Army Painter. Throughout the process my impression was that the Iron Keep performed on par with Citadel Artificer and W&N Series 7, which are some of my favorite lines of brushes. Below are a few pictures of the brushes after the job was done.
Iron Keep delivered and I am genuinely happy about the three brushes. Both pricing and the quality works for me. The only issue I have is the limited choice of size. I prefer to work on slightly larger brushes and would definitely get size 3 and 4 if available. Either way this is not the last time you will see Iron Keep Finest Sable at my workbench – they now join the ranks of my favorite brush lines. Look out for yellow handles all over my workspace from now on!
Why not at the very source: Iron Keep Fines Sable
You might also find these brushes at selected online stores.
I hope you find this review interesting. Be sure to let me know your thoughts in the comments below, or at Facebook or Instagram. I would also appreciate it if you considered sharing this content with your friends, who might find it useful. Finally if you are looking for a professional miniatures painting service, be sure to contact me with this contact form. I always reply within 24 hours, after which please check out your spam folder.
Ahoy Sailors! As you know I am most and foremost a passionate hobbyist. That being said I am also a pirate, a scoundrel and a fanatical enthusiast of Mantic Games Kings of War: Armada – a naval strategy game set in a rich world of Pannithor, pitting multiple wonderfully crafted and strongly themed factions against one another. In this article I present to you a new, fan made, “Creeping Death” Scenario.
Armada Scenario: Creeping Death
An unnatural fog starts to creep into the sea. Two fleets caught mid-battle must now face a chilling touch of an enemy they cannot fight against!
Setup
Each player’s deployment zones are two 16″x16″ triangles at the opposite sides of the board.
Both players deploy their fleets one ship at a time, as usual, except no player can place two ships in the same deployment zone one after the other.
Roll a D6, on a 1-3, the Wind starts from the West, on a 4-6, it starts from the East.
Victory Conditions
The game lasts 6 turns.
Players score VP at the end of the game, as follows:
● 1VP for each destroyed enemy ship up to a maximum of 4VP.
● 2VP if the most expensive enemy ship (‘Capital Ship’) is destroyed.
● 2VP if more than half (rounding up) of the enemy ships are destroyed.
The Player with the most VPs is the winner.
Scenario Rules
At the end of each turn, the deadly unnatural fog creeps further onto the board. Any ship caught in the fog is immediately hit* and suffers a Critical Hit (Critical Hit Table p.26 Rulebook). Any Tiny and/or Surrendered Ships that are caught in the fog are immediately destroyed instead.
*Ships can freely start and end their Activations in the unnatural fog. The hits occur at the end of turn only.The deadly fog creeps from the outside of the gaming board as follows:
● First Turn: 3” from the board edges.
● Second Turn: 6” from the board edges.
● Third Turn: 9” from the board edges.
● Fourth Turn: 12” from the board edges.
● Fifth Turn: Players roll a D6. On 4+ the fog progresses another 3″ from the board edges and towards the middle.
● Sixth Turn: Players roll a D6. On 4+ the fog progresses another 3″ from the board edges and towards the middle.
I hope you find this article interesting. Be sure to let me know your thoughts in the comments below or via Facebook or Instagram. I would also appreciate it if you considered sharing this content with your friends, who might find it useful. Finally if you are looking for a professional Warhammer miniatures painting service, be sure to contact me with this contact form. I always reply within 24 hours, after which please check out your spam folder.
Ahoy Sailors! As you know I am most and foremost a passionate hobbyist. That being said I am also a pirate, a scoundrel and a fanatical enthusiast of Mantic Games Kings of War: Armada – a naval strategy game set in a rich world of Pannithor, pitting multiple wonderfully crafted and strongly themed factions against one another. In this article I present to you a new, fan made, “Hellish Trident” Scenario.
Armada Scenario: Hellish Trident
Three Islands in this area are believed to be the cursed tips of a Hellish Trident. Every now and then the Islands resonate creating waves of vast magnitude, dealing massive damage to nearby ships. Most fleets avoid the area, but on this very day the orders were given to gain control of this cursed place…
Setup
In addition to any terrain, players place three small Islands, representing the tips of the Hellish Trident, on the table in the following configuration:
● 1 Objective Marker in the center of the table.
● 1 Objective Marker, 8” from the left side and 8” from the top side of the board.
● 1 Objective Marker, 8” from the right side and 8” from the bottom side of the board.
Each player’s deployment zones are 24″x24″ triangles at the opposite sides of the board.
Roll a D6, on a 1-3, the Wind starts from the West, on a 4-6, it starts from the East.
Victory Conditions
The game lasts 6 turns.
Each player scores VP at the end of the turn, as follows:
● 1VP for the player who controls more Islands.
Additionally, at the end of the game players score VP as follows:
● 2VP for the player who controls more Islands.
The player with the most VPs at the end of the game is the winner.
Scenario Rules
From the second turn onwards, one Island will start to Resonate. Any ship that ends its Activation within/partially within 8” from the Resonating Island must pass a Skill Test. If the test fails the ship will suffer D6 Damage. If the Skill Test fails on a natural roll of “1” the ship will suffer an additional Critical Hit (Critical Hit Table p.26 Rulebook).
During the last game Turn all Skill Tests made by ships within 8″ from the Resonating Islands suffer a -1 modifier and each Damage Roll suffered as a result of Resonating Islands are automatic Critical Hits (Critical Hit Table p.26 Rulebook).
● Second Turn: Players roll-off, the winner selects the Island to resonate this turn.
● Third Turn: The opposing player selects a different Island to resonate this turn.
● Fourth Turn: The last Island is the one to resonate this turn.
● Fifth Turn: No Islands resonate this turn.
● Sixth Turn: All Islands resonate this turn.
Each player scores VP at the end of the turn, as follows:
● 1VP for the player who controls more Islands.
Additionally, at the end of the game players score VP as follows:
● 2VP for the player who controls more Islands.
The player with the most VPs at the end of the game is the winner.
Controlling Islands
Tally up the CS of non Surrendered friendly ships within 6″ from an Island for both players. The side with greater CS within the area Controls the Island. The majority of the ship’s base must be within the area to count towards the tally.
I hope you find this article interesting. Be sure to let me know your thoughts in the comments below or via Facebook or Instagram. I would also appreciate it if you considered sharing this content with your friends, who might find it useful. Finally if you are looking for a professional Warhammer miniatures painting service, be sure to contact me with this contact form. I always reply within 24 hours, after which please check out your spam folder.
Playing miniature wargames used to be all about textured boards and fluffy static grass mats. These days there’s a variety of alternatives, the best of which is in my opinion a proper gaming mat. Gaming mats look great, they’re durable, easy to store and most importantly offer a wide spectrum of themes to improve the gameplay experience. When it comes to gaming mats there’s a few clear leaders in the market, but my favorite is the Playmats – a well established Polish brand of gaming accessories and Battle Mats for wargames. For years now I have been a faithful customer, improving my wargaming experience with Playmats, be it with their original designs or via commissioning them to produce items to my personalized specifications. This review is less of a classic price/quality/etc. and more of a product-focus. As it happens the Playmats just released a Battle Mat produced in association with yours truly. A great opportunity to present to you my own idea realized as a fully fledged product of a well known company.
The product in question is the “No Man’s Land” mat for wargames. The idea behind the mat is to provide a ravaged trenchline background for a desolated battlefield, so that any configuration of so-called trench-hills will fit, regardless of setup. The inspiration came out of nowhere when I was making a new Trench Crusade gaming board and weighted my options between fully 3D modelled, plank covered ‘ground floor’ and a standard battlefield type gaming mat. Modelling floor tiles is a tedious task that limits setup options for scenery, whereas for a gaming mat – there was just no design of what I had in mind anywhere out there. Most gaming mats are designed to look good as standalone products and are not necessarily treated as a background for a full scenery set – I figured to pitch my idea to Playmats and to my surprise they took it in with an open mind.
I will skip the entire design process and focus on the finished thing instead. The gaming mat I got is a standard 48×48″ (122x122cm), one sided print on a rubber pad. I have many Playmats products already so to no surprise the quality is very good, with strong and vibrant colors, smooth cutting lines and perfect rubber pad to print adhesion. The final design is very much to my liking, full of messed up trench floor, ideal to stick out from beneath trench-hills.
The No Man’s Land comes in a variety of sizes and as such it fits a variety of games, including Trench Crusade (like in my case), but also an Imperial Guard themed board for Warhammer 40,000/Kill-Team or a cool Warzone trench line. I am very happy with the results.
For the record: I do not earn any affiliation based returns from the sales of this product. Now that I have a cool No Man’s Land gaming mat of my own, I have no further horses in this race, if you catch my drift. I’m here spreading the hobby love because I do appreciate Playmats eagerness to release my idea, not to forget the great quality of all the cool stuff they delivered throughout the years. At this point I am a fan of theirs for life!
This and other Playmats products are available at Playmats.eu or Playmaty.pl for all of you – Polish friends.
I hope you find this review interesting. Be sure to let me know your thoughts in the comments below, or at Facebook or Instagram. I would also appreciate it if you considered sharing this content with your friends, who might find it useful. Finally if you are looking for a professional miniatures painting service, be sure to contact me with this contact form. I always reply within 24 hours, after which please check out your spam folder.
Exactly a year ago I made my first Trench Crusade gaming board. The Silesian Trenchline was a project of passion combining a lifetime of previous terrain making experiences with a wide array of expectations towards the game of Trench Crusade – I did not yet played at the time.
It is 2026 now and I’ve been playing Trench Crusade extensively for the past twelve months, both at home and at various events. I have tested my wargaming mantle against some of the best Trench Crusade competitive gamers in Poland, emerging that much more experienced in terms of knowledge of the flow of the game. Even though the previous gaming board is considered very playable, it is not without some key issues that grew on me over time. I have adjusted some features and added a few extras. At the end of the day I still felt it was time to ‘update’ the whole set. Thus here we are – the Silesian Trenchline 2.0 project begun on Monday 9th of February 2026.
This time around the main focus was to:
– Prioritize gameplay features over looks,
– Copy the core, well tested and Organized Play viable, board layout,
– Increase stackability (less occupied space when fully compacted),
– Maximize looks within the limits set by the above directives,
The project began in earnest on Monday afternoon, when all the necessary material got delivered at my doorstep. 2″ thick XPS foam, corrugated paper, wooden coffee sticks, PVA glue, lots of Cyanoacrylate glue and other stuff plus some 3D printed bitz and pieces I produced throughout the previous Weekend.
I copied the exact layout of the previous board by outlining each piece on a fresh XPS foam board, then cutting the XPS along the lines with an exacto knife. The next step was to fit the shapes onto a board to see if they require any adjustments. A few dimensions did get tuned slightly. I then followed up with the standard side decoration – a mix of corrugated paper and hundreds (actually over a thousand) wooden coffee sticks of varied shapes, all mounted firmly with PVA glue.
I made sure to glue coffee sticks so that they created a ragged top edge, but stuck out on the underside, to then cut them off along the natural line of the XPS foam, once dry.
In order to improve visuals in a way that will not impact gameplay comfort, I have built a few shrines and ammo caches that I then mounted inside some of the trench walls.
With all the scenery pieces prepared I have arranged a game with my buddy to see how the updated board performs in ‘real combat’. The test was a success. We both felt this was exactly how a top competitive one-off game should feel. The board was approved and ready to get painted.
The painting process was nothing new. I followed the same color scheme as before, except for the texture. This time I used AK Interactive Dark Earth, rather than a DIY mix of fine sand with brown paint and PVA glue. It saved me a lot of time. On Friday 13th of February I was done with the project – for the time being…
The board is very playable, although compared to the previous set of the Silesian Trenchline, it looks somewhat empty. I have purposely resigned from angling the side walls and adding sandbags – for smoother gaming experience, but now feel that the new board is way less fotogenic than the last one was. Because of that I am working on adding a few removable obstacles that should bring back some of that fine color to the entire thing. What do you think – how much worse does it look by comparison? How much more playable do you think it is now?
Stay tuned for updates as projects such as this are never really finished.
PS: The amazing ruined trench bottom game mat is “No Mans Land” from Playmats.eu that I helped to develop.
I hope you’ve found this article interesting. Be sure to let me know your thoughts in the comments at Facebook or Instagram. I would also appreciate it if you considered sharing this content with your friends, who might find it useful. Finally if you are looking for a professional miniatures painting service, be sure to contact me with this contact form. I always reply within 24 hours, after which please check out your spam folder.
Here are some Color Recipes for Trench Crusade themed scenery from Gallery: Silesian Trenchline and Gallery: Silesian Trenchline 2.0. Please take note that this is a simple color scheme, not covering multiple overlapping layers and blends in between, that lead to the final product. It is supposed to be used as guideline not a step-by-step.
DARK wood:
Vallejo Panzer Dark Grey 74.603, *
Vallejo Grey RLM02 71.044, *
Vallejo Cold Grey 72.750, *
Vallejo Cold Grey 72.750, drbr
The Army Painter Grim Black, thinned wash
The Army Painter Strong Tone, wash*
Games Workshop Flayed One Flesh, l&p,
AK Interactive Dark Earth texture, thinned blend
Vallejo Barbarian Skin 72.071, weathering, drbr
WEATHERED metal:
Vallejo Tinny Tin 72.060,
Vallejo Chainmail 72.053, flbr
Vallejo Silver 72.052, scratches
The Army Painter Strong Tone, wash*
AK Interactive Light Rust wash, weathering
SANDY sandbags:
Vallejo Barbarian Skin 76.071, *
Games Workshop Flayed One Flesh, stpl
The Army Painter Strong Tone, wash*
OLIVE accessories:
Vallejo Grey RLM02 71.044, *
Mix Vallejo Grey RLM02 71.044 4:1 Games Workshop Flayed One Flesh, flbr
The Army Painter Strong Tone, wash*
Games Workshop Flayed One Flesh, l&p
AK Interactive Light Rust wash, weathering
EARTHY ground:
AK Interactive Dark Earth texture,
Vallejo Barbarian Skin 72.071, drbr
EXTRAS:
Gamers Gras 2mm Brown Tufts
I hope you find this article interesting. Be sure to let me know your thoughts in the comments below, or at Facebook or Instagram. I would also appreciate it if you considered sharing this content with your friends, who might find it useful. Finally if you are looking for a professional miniatures painting service, be sure to contact me with this contact form. I always reply within 24 hours, after which please check out your spam folder.
Ahoy Sailors! As you know I am most and foremost a passionate hobbyist. That being said I am also a pirate, a scoundrel and a fanatical enthusiast of Mantic Games Kings of War: Armada – a naval strategy game set in a rich world of Pannithor, pitting multiple wonderfully crafted and strongly themed factions against one another. In this article I present to you a new, fan made, “Marked for Death” Scenario.
Armada Scenario: Marked for Death
An opposing fleet was spotted on the horizon. Soon the orders got relayed to mark priority targets for the immediate destruction. Unbeknown to the fleets captains the enemy prepared plans of their own…
Setup
Each player’s deployment zone is 6” deep and 12” from each table edge.
Roll a D6, on a 1-3, the Wind starts from the West, on a 4-6, it starts from the East.
Victory Conditions
The game lasts 6 turns.
Players score VP at the end of the game, as follows:
● 1VP for each enemy Marked for Death ship destroyed.
● 1VP for each enemy Marked for Protection ship destroyed.
● 1VP for each friendly not Surrendered Marked for Protectionship in the enemy half of the table.
● An additional 2VP for the player who destroyed more Marked for Death enemy ships.
The Player with the most VPs is the winner.
Scenario Rules
Before Deployment each player writes down in secret two of their own ships of size M or larger. These ships are now “Marked for Protection”. Next, players write down in secret two enemy ships of size M or larger. These ships are now “Marked for Death”. If there is only one ship of the appropriate size in a fleet, it is Marked automatically by both players and counts as two ships for the purpose of Scoring.
At the start of each of the first four turns, both players reveal one of the Marked ships simultaneously, as follows:
● First Turn: Reveal one enemy Marked for Death ship.
● Second Turn: Reveal one friendly Marked for Protection ship.
● Third Turn: Reveal second enemy Marked for Death ship.
● Fourth Turn: Reveal second friendly Marked for Protection ship.
The Marked ship can already be destroyed when revealed. The same ship can be Marked for Death and Marked for Protection at the same time.
I hope you find this article interesting. Be sure to let me know your thoughts in the comments below or via Facebook or Instagram. I would also appreciate it if you considered sharing this content with your friends, who might find it useful. Finally if you are looking for a professional Warhammer miniatures painting service, be sure to contact me with this contact form. I always reply within 24 hours, after which please check out your spam folder.
