Here are some Colour Recipes for Sa’Cea Tau from Gallery: Tau Sa’Cea. Please take note that this is a simple colour scheme, not covering multiple overlapping layers and blends in between, that lead to the final product. It is supposed to be used as guideline not a step-by-step.
BLUE armour:
French Blue (Val), *
Ultramarine Blue (Val), *
Mix Ultramarine Blue (Val) 5:2 Light Sea Blue (Val), *
Black Wash For Dark Vehicles (Val), *
Hoeth Blue (GW), l&p
Glacier Blue (Val), l&p
GREY:
Dark Panzer Grey (Val), *
Cold Grey (Val), *
Wolf Grey (Val), l&p
Dark Tone Ink (AP), blend
ORANGE:
Macharius Solar Orange (GW),
Fire Dragon Bright (GW),
Elf Skintone (Val), l&p
GREEN OSL:
Duck Egg Green (Val), *
Light Livery Green (Val), *
Ivory (Val), l&p
SKIN:
Shadow Grey (GW),
Mix Shadow Grey (GW) 1:1 Frostbite (P3),
Mix Shadow Grey (GW) 1:2 Frostbite (P3), drbr
Frostbite (P3), Soft drbr
l&p – lines and points,
p – points,
bl – blend,
gl – glaze,
drbr – drybrush,
fltbr – flatbrush,
lobr – loaded brush,
stpl – stippling,
*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)
In this step-by-step tutorial I’m going to show you how to create Cityfight bases same way I did for Gallery: Tau Sa’Cea.
I used:
Step one: Special detail
Using a hobby knife I cut all the sticks, sprues, toothpicks, plasticard and tube into small pieces. I made sure to cut one side of each piece at an angle, to better position each piece on the base. I then glued random pieces on top of a base using Super glue.
Step two: Gravel
I applied PVA glue around previously glued pieces. I then applied Super glue on top of it and, before super glue hardened, covered entire thing with thick sand mixed with hobby gravel.
Step three: Texture
I then textured rest of the base using Games Workshop Astrogranite and Astrogranite Debris paints.
I started with Black Undercoat, then airbrushed a layer of Vallejo Cold Grey, followed short by Vallejo Stonewall Grey. I then washed everything black using Army Painter Dark Tone Ink and once it dried I drybrushed entire base with Games Workshop Administratum Grey.
For metal debris elements I used a mix of Games Workshop Warplock Bronze and Army Painter Gun Metal, followed by a highlight of Army Painter Shining Silver. I then washed all the pieces brown with Army Painter Strong Tone Ink.
For additional depth and effects I blended in some watered Vallejo Earth. Next I washed all metal debris with a mix of Vallejo Dark Red Ochre Pigment and Army Painter Soft Tone Ink. Lastly I drybrushed grey areas with Vallejo Ghost Grey.
Edges repainted black and job done!
You like this article? Don’t be a stranger! Let me know what you think in the comments below or at my Facebook profile! Cheers!
Here are some Colour Recipes for Mid-Nor from Gallery: Confrontation Mid-Nor. Please take note that this is a simple colour scheme, not covering multiple overlapping layers and blends in between, that lead to the final product. It is supposed to be used as guideline not a step-by-step.
BLACK/GREY armour:
Black Undercoat,
Panzer Dark Grey (Val), *
Fenrisian Grey (GW), l&p
Pallid Wych Flesh (GW), l&p
Dark Tone Ink (AP),
Pallid Wych Flesh (GW), l&p
PURPLE skin:
Warpfiend Grey (GW),
Slaanesh Grey (GW),
Mix Purple Tone Ink (AP) 2:1:1 Strong Tone Ink (AP), Medium,
Slaanesh Grey (GW), l&p
Mix Slaanesh Grey (GW) 1:1 Pale Flesh (Val), l&p
Pale Wych Flesh (GW), l&p
FLESH skin:
(PURPLE skin base),
Dwarf Flesh (GW), fltbr
Mix Dwarf Flesh (GW) 1:1 Pale Flesh (Val), fltbr
Mix Purple Tone Ink (AP) 2:1:1 Strong Tone Ink (AP), Medium,
Pale Wych Flesh (GW), l&p
METAL armour:
See: Tutorial: Painting “Five Layers” Metal
Warplock Bronze (GW),
Gun Metal (AP), flbr
Shining Metal (AP), flbr
Strong Tone Ink (AP),
Shining Metal (AP), l&p
GREEN light:
Duck Egg Green (Val), p
Light Livery Green (Val),*
Waywatcher Green (Val), glaze
Off White (Val), l&p
Light Livery Green (Val), b
BASES:
Panzer Dark Grey (Val, air), *
Cold Grey (Val, air),
Fenrisian Grey, fltbr
Wolf Grey (Val), fltbr, l&p
Strong Tone Ink (AP),
Wolf Grey (Val), l&p
Earth (Val), b
Purple Tone Ink (Val), b
l&p – lines and points,
p – points,
bl – blend,
gl – glaze,
drbr – drybrush,
fltbr – flatbrush,
lobr – loaded brush,
stpl – stippling,
*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)
Welcome to Painting Daemonic Purple Skin tutorial. Here I will take you on a Step-by-step trip through the process of painting purple skin the same way as seen at: Gallery: Confrontation Mid-Nor
Before we start, some notes:
* This one requires basics of loaded brush technique.
* For the purpose of this tutorial I used a Confrontation Mid-Nor miniature that has a large detail and is better to show the steps on.
* As usual, please take note that what works for me might not necessarily work for you.
Ready to do this? I assume your miniature is already painted black (or in my case first layers of “Infinity Black“), so buckle up and let’s go!
* Start with a solid layer of Warpfiend Grey (GW). The layer does not have to be perfectly smooth. The goal is to make sure all deep areas are filled with paint. I tend to thin down the paint with a bit of water to fasten this step.
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* Time for a little bit of magic trickery. Wash with a mix of Purple Tone Ink (AP) 2:1:1 Strong Tone Ink (AP), Lahmian Medium (GW).
* Back to Slaanesh Grey (GW). Here's where loaded brush becomes handy. Repaint all the exterior areas with Slaanesh Grey. Might be a bit thinned, the paint has enough pigment to do the job.
* Now same thing, but with a mix of Slaanesh Grey (GW) with just a bit of Pale Flesh (Val). This time though focus in edges and middle points of larger areas.
…and that’s it. You can further highlight edges and important points adding more Pale Flesh (Val) to the mix. The end result looks like this:
Here’s a quick video showing my technique of preparing an airbrush for a colour swap. It is fast and easy and it works for me since 2015, so I decided to share it with you. Enjoy!
Additional notes:
* As usual, please take note that what works for me might not necessarily work for you.
* I use this special pressure nozzle bottle, but you can use any bottle that has a thin tip – for example old airbrush cleaner water. It will work the same.
* Be super gentle when handling the needle. Even a soft brush can damage it if you go commando.
I hope this tut will be useful to you. If so, be sure to let me know in the comments here, or at my facebook profile.
Let’s talk Stencils. There’s just so many awesome airbrush stencils out there. The world around us is filled with them, even though we’re used to pass them by without further notice…
No, I ain’t talking about these! These are all professional stencils, some of which are crazy expensive! Nope – I’m talking about all the stencils that you might already have at home and not know about it! Some may be found in the kitchen, some inside your bathroom, some can even now be in your reach, across the hobby desk!
“But Nazroth, you resourceful genius” I hear you say “how come?!”
Here’s the thing: “Anything can be a stencil!” Still don’t believe me? Check these out!
Dirty, dusty effect – why not?
Still haven’t used, but I know there will come a time to do it 😛
Cuz there’s never enough hex in your life!
I call upon thee God of Thunder!
Not a stencil, but totally worht consideration 😉
My favorite source of elastic, detailed stencils.
Feel inspired to rampage across your home and try to find as many stencils as possible? Feel like “gonna catch them all!”? I wish you good hunt!
PS: What are yours favorite DIY stencils? Let me know in the comments or under THIS facebook post 😉
Today is a special day. The Army Painter – a worldwide supplier of hobby products, such as paints, colour primers, glues, brushes, tufts and more, is now twelve years old! It’s hard to believe that he the company which entered the market in 2007th introducing a medium sized offer of hobby products grew to be a giant we know today. I remember when Army Painter appeared for the first time in a hobby store I ran. Easy to say I fell in love with some of their products and stuck with AP to this day.
So, let’s celebrate Army Painter’s 12th birthday with a review of my favorite AP product of all time – the Army Painter Super Glue!
The Army Painter Super Glue comes at a suggested price of 4,99€. Compared to a small tube of glue this might come across as expensive, but taking into account how much stuff you’ll be able to glue with a single bottle of AP’s glue and the fact it will stay functional long after first use – it’s totally worth it! Not to mention Games Workshop glue, which comes in four 5ml tubes, that once opened don’t stand a chance of against Army Painter’s king of a glue!
I simply love this glue. I use it for twelve years now and used up more than a hundred bottles. I prefer it over any other Cyanoacrylate glue and I totally recommend you to try it out. On a scale where 10 is awesome, 8 is good, 6 is ok, 5 is mediocre, 3 is bad and I don’t want to even mention 1 – the Army Painter Super Glue is 11! I just can’t imagine hobbying without it. For me it’s essential.
Best to ask in your local hobby store, but if you want to support the great company Army Painter had become – head to Army Painter Website and order from them directly.
Moving painted miniatures to a tournament or painting competition can be a real challenge. I bet that every single miniatures painter had one or more miniatures damaged while being transported. Sad truth is that no matter what we do, situations like these happens. Still, when it comes to safe transportation of our beloved miniatures, we’re not completely helpless.
In the world of miniatures painting there are two well established ways of professional miniatures transportation, both with their own pros and cons: Foam Bags and Magnetic Bags. Today I would like to talk a bit about the latter and present to you the A-Case Victory 2.0 from A-Case, one of the leading companies in the market.
During my years as a hobby store manager and a hobbyist, I’ve seen my share of transportation bags. This imho allows me to say that when it comes to quality A-Case is king. Everything fits, everything is smooth, no thread going wild along the stitches, inner metal casing of great quality plus the overall feel of an exclusive product.
New A-Case Victory 2.0 saw a lot of improvements compared to previous series, such as a much sturdier construction, reinforced trays, strapped side pins to keep the trays in place and more.
I know this part is totally subjective, but Dayum! The Victory 2.0 looks so good! Everything from design, through quality makes it feel prestigious, both in the inside and the outside. To be fair the sole look is what made me crave a Magnetic Case of my own when I scrolled through facebook and saw it time and time again. Just couldn’t resist. At least now you know why I’m so hyped about it.
Coming from a position of an orthodox foam fan I have thoroughly tested this carrying case during last month. Apart from obvious features like light weight, comfort of use, adjustable strap with a shoulder pad, handle, large pocket and removable trays Victory 2.0 has some cool features that improve on the case’s functionality. A Velcro strap on top and at the front allows to attach badges, while water resistant material will keep your miniatures safe in case of bad weather. My favorite though are side pins to immobilize the trays in place. In previous series these might get lost but now attached with flexible straps they will follow the trays around.
It’s not easy to compare A-Case’s Victory 2.0 to other transportation cases as there’s really no high tier competition in the market. Yes, there are some magnetic cases out there (Battle Foam, Tablewar etc.) but most is just out of this league. Coming at a price of around 180€ Victory 2.0 is also more expensive than foam counterpart, but it offers a totally different method of miniatures transportation. One that does not involve your paint job touching anything, even as soft as foam. One that allows you to transport large quantity of miniatures in a rather small bag. Most importantly one that is durable and will last for years to come. In addition A-Case offers free shipping around the world and in some cases (like US) that means huge savings.
For me the pricing of this exclusive product seem fair. Taking the cost of miniatures and time/money spent on painting into consideration, around 180€ seems like a small price for solid, comfortable and very aesthetic protection.
To summarize, if you’re looking for a solid and comfortable way to transport your miniatures – A-Case Victory 2.0 is the thing. It looks great, it is very comfortable to use, made of high quality materials and with utmost care for detail. On top of it the case is reasonably priced. On a scale where 10 is awesome, 8 is good, 6 is ok, 5 is mediocre, 3 is bad and I don’t want to even mention 1 – I deem this product awesome! 10/10 Victory 2.0 totally revolutionized my approach to Magnetic transportation and ended twenty years of my foam addiction.
Victory 2.0 is currently being produced after a successful kickstarter campaign. If you suddenly crave for your own Carrying Case, head to:
A-Case website,
A-Case Facebook,
If you’re more of a patient type and want to save some buck – wait for the next A-Case kickstarter campaign, which is sure to take place at some point in the future.
Victory 2.0 and other Carrying Cases from the Hybrid series will be available to purchase in December 2019! Stay tuned!
Brushes and Tools Roll Bag is another product of A-Case that I really like. This smart solution of brushes and modelling tools transportation might come in handy when you plan to take your hobby on a trip, or engage in hobby activities at a local store. Personally I’ve used it to transport my tools to airbrush workshops I ran. Also took it to hotels couple of times. It’s great and I can’t figure out why it ain’t that popular with hobbyists?
Either way – I have three of these and currently use two – this leaves me with one spare Roll Bag. You’ve made it through the entire article and deserve a reward – so here’s where the surprise starts:
The top right Brushes and Tools Roll Bag (Orange) can be yours!
To join the raffle simply:
* Like Scarhandpainting Facebook profile,
* Like this facebook post and comment on it with a #gimmerollbag,
Results will be posted at Sunday 10th of November. Good luck!
Guild Ball on the workbench once again, with a brand new Champ miniature that was sent to me for review. Let’s just get into it…
This time the resin is smooth, with crisp detail and sharp edges. It looks very high quality and seem exclusive. It is hard to bend and works perfectly with knife and file. It behaves almost like harder version of Games Workshops plastic. Very pleasant to work with. Much better quality than Forge World resin, light years away from board game plastic and huge improvement in Guild Ball quality overall. I love it!
The design is also very nice, with no parts that might be susceptible to get damaged. On top of that the miniature looks just awesome! The dynamism of the pose is clear to see thanks to a very natural combat stand. Cool miniature.
The base is also top quality with no issues what so ever. Sharp, flat edge, no miscast, no mold lines – perfect.
As a side note: I think that the best proof of SFG’s quality improvement over the years is comparison of new resin Champ (left) vs Kickoff plastic Harmony (right). These are two completely different worlds.
Summary:
For more Guild Ball related articles go to scarhandpainting.com/tag/guild-ball
In this step-by-step tutorial I’m going to show you how to base miniatures.
Basing miniatures is an overall easy thing, still every now and then I stumble upon hobbyists asking on how to properly do it. Let’s start the answer with: “There’s no one proper way, but there are certainly plenty of bad ways to base miniatures.” A quick example of a “bad way” would be if you glued irregular sand on top of a base and tried to glue a miniature on top of it with cyanoacrylate glue. Glue would go on a rampage all over the sand while it’ll not hold the miniature in place due to insufficient area of contact. Another example of a “bad way” would be gluing a miniature on top of a painted base without a pin resulting with miniature being glued to paint rather than the base. This can only end badly for the miniature and your paint job. Ok, so what are the “proper ways”? Here’s three major techniques I use:
Some miniatures seem stable and have a large, flat area at the bottom be it giant feet, or an underside of a robe. In this case I usually go with with no pin at all and trust in the vast area of contact to keep the miniature in place.
Here’s how I go about it:
I use this method in case of wobbly miniatures with small area of contact that for some reason don’t have the rail. Such miniatures require to be pinned to the base to ensure their safety and durability. Note that pinning requires additional tools as well as proper pins. Alongside a trusted hand driller you can also purchase original hobby pins, but these are expensive. Depending on how thick is the miniature I use either paperclips or a thin steel wire.
The steps I undertake to pin a miniature:
This is my favorite method. I believe that a natural part of the miniature is better at holding it in place rather than a smooth steel pin.
This is what I do:
From all the other methods this one works the best for me. Plus it’s faster than normal pinning. Just remember, there’s no one proper method. If you feel like a miniature might use a pin – Just follow your guts on this and pin it. Better safe than sorry.
I might drop another article on basing miniatures in the future. Maybe some Painting Philosophy type with insight on why I paint my miniatures based and not separately. If you think it’s an interesting topic and/or if you liked this article – consider letting me know in the comments or at my Facebook profile… or even share if you think it’s worth it 😉
PS: Check this stuff out! It blown my mind! XD
