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Tutorial: DIY Sci-Fi Containers (Recycling)

Warhammer 40,000, Infinity the Game, One Page Rules, Deadzone or Kill-Team – every proper futuristic miniatures game benefits from nice looking, properly themed scenery. Where to find proper scenery for your gaming board? Such issues can easily be resolved by dropping loads of cash on original scenery elements or 3d prints. Still, why not make your own great looking and finely detailed scenery, fast, super cheap and recycle some plastic while at it?

In this article I will present to you an easy way to make nicely detailed, in-scale Containers as presented in The Colony Gallery, perfect for Warhammer 40,000 and Infinity the Game with anything in-between.

Some notes:

  • This tutorial is a refurbished piece of an old DIY Infinity Terrain article. It’s pretty basic.
  • Please note pictures present closeups under strong light that might result in a feel of clumsy, messy job.
  • As usual, please take note that what works for me might not necessarily work for you.

The Material:

It might be a surprise, but unless you are living in the vicinity of the South Pole, there’s probably a lot of stuff you can recycle into Miniatures Wargaming scenery. It fortunately is the case with the Sci-Fi Containers. Milk, water, sodas all tend to come in bottles / containers with a plastic cap. This is a goldmine of resources to build scenery with.



The Building Process:

Building Sci-Fi themed containers is as easy as gluing two plastic caps of the same size with one another. I recommend cyanoacrylate glue with an activator for a strong bond. The ‘containers’ can then be mounted on baes or used separately, depending on your preference.

For painting I recommend a sprayed undercoat. The caps are not the same plastic as Games Workshop miniatures, the paint is prone to chipping if applied on top of manually painted undercoat (or no undercoat).



The Effect:

Once done the containers can be stacked to create a varied battlefield or to provide better cover. They can even be combined to imitate urban hills and industrial areas. Perfect for any game that shares their theme.



I hope you find this tutorial interesting. Be sure to let me know your thoughts in the comments below or via Facebook or Instagram. I would also appreciate if you considered sharing this content with your friends, who might find it useful. Finally if you are looking for a professional warhammer 40k miniatures painting service, be sure to contact me with this contact form. I always reply within 24 hours, after which please check out your spam folder.

Colour Recipes: Horus Heresy Salamanders

Here are some Colour Recipes for Horus Heresy Mechanicum from Gallery: Salamanders. Please take note that this is a simple colour scheme, not covering multiple overlapping layers and blends in between, that lead to the final product. It is supposed to be used as guideline not a step-by-step.


GREEN armor:

Dark Green (Val a), *

Sick Green (Val a), *

Duck Egg Green (Val a), *

Light Livery Green (Val a), * bl

Green Tone (AP), * bl


BLACK shoulder guards:

Panzer Dark Grey (Val a),

Strong Tone (AP), wash

Ghost Grey (Val), flbr [on detail such as logo]

Dark Tone (AP), wash



BLACK vehicle plate:

Pancer Dark Grey (Val a), *

Cold Grey (Val a), *

Black Wash for Vehicles (Val), *


Weathering:

Charred Brown (Val a), *


Fire:

White (Val a), * stencil

Golden Yellow (Val a), *

Hot Orange (Val a), *

Red Tone (AP), * underline



Gold:

Rust (Val a),

Greedy Gold (AP), flbr

Strong Tone (AP), wash


Metal:

Rust (AP a),

Gun Metal (AP), flbr

Shining Metal (AP), flbr

Strong Tone Ink (AP),



Bases:

Dark Earth (AK Interactive), texture

Wasteland Tufts (The Army Painter)


l&p – lines and points,

p – points,

bl – blend,

gl – glaze,

drbr – drybrush,

flbr – flatbrush,

stpl – stippling,

*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)



I hope you find this tutorial interesting. Be sure to let me know your thoughts in the comments below, or at Facebook or Instagram. I would also appreciate it if you considered sharing this content with your friends, who might find it useful. Finally if you are looking for a professional miniatures painting service, be sure to contact me with this contact form. I always reply within 24 hours, after which please check out your spam folder.

Review: Rebel Brushes

When it comes to the board games distribution in Poland, there’s not many companies (if any) that can rival Rebel. Being a part of the Asmodee group and a well recognized brand, Rebel sits at the pinnacle of the Polish board games market. It’s not just games that Rebel is known for. Not so long ago the company turned its focus to miniatures hobby and introduced multiple popular brands of paints and accessories to their offer. A few months back Rebel went even further and released their own brand of hobby Brushes. As it happens, a selection of these new “Rebel” brushes found their way into my hands and I’ve been ‘butchering’ them since. If you’re curious as to how they performed then look no further.



Visuals and the First Impressions

The selection of Rebel brushes arrived in a special brush Rollbag, that at first glance looked pretty cool. A leather-like strap with a single clip, nice Rebel logo and a lot of slots for individual brushes. The brushes themselves are split between four series, one of which (purple, promo) is not available for purchase. The remaining three series are Natural Dry, Kolinsky Layer and Synthetic, all looking visually appealing, varying between amazing (dry) and a bit uninspired (synthetic). Overall good first impression .



Synthetic brushes

When it comes to synthetic brushes I approach them with near to none expectations. With the way I paint and the quantity of miniatures that go through my desk I always feel like the expiration date on synthetic brushes is rather short. Rebel synthetics came through two main projects mostly intact, which is legit. The tips held. Definitely better than cheap low quality stuff from Asia, and with performance to be expected from fully fledged hobby brushes. I feel the price range is a turnoff with Rebel synthetics price starting point exceeding the Green Stuff World’s price end point. I believe that availability in local stores and associated discounts will be a decisive factor. These are, in all regards, good quality hobby brushes.

REBEL
Flat Synthetic M ~5,1€
Flat Synthetic L ~6,9€
Synthetic Layer 00 ~4,2€
Synthetic Layer 0 ~4,4€
Synthetic Layer 1 ~4,6€
Synthetic Layer 2 ~5,1€
Synthetic Layer 3 ~5,8€

THE ARMY PAINTER
Drybrush S (synthetic flat) 5,99€
Drybrush L (synthetic flat) 6,5€

GREEN STUFF WORLD
Flat Synthetic Brush Size 1 3,15€
Flat Synthetic Brush Size 3 3,22€
Flat Synthetic Brush Size 6 3,49€
Green Series 00 3,75€
Green Series 0 3,75€
Green Series 1 3,85€
Green Series 2 3,99€



Kolinsky Layer

Rebel’s Kolinsky Layer brushes hold up to the quality you can expect from all Kolinsky brushes. You basically get what you see and can expect solid performance. I had no issues with these, each tip held firm throughout the rigorous painting process. A bit pricey compared to competitors on the lower size end, especially compared to (once again) the Green Stuff World’s Silver series. Interestingly, Rebel gains pricing advantage further on the size spectrum, at some point becoming twice cheaper than Roubloff FFF1 series. Being produced within the EU and available, definitely makes Rebel Kolinsky Layer brushes worth a consideration for European hobbyists.



A quick comparison between two brushes, Roubloff 111F vs Rebel Kolinsky Layer. Tips of a similar length and shape. In my experience they did perform the same which is a testament to Rebel’s Kolinsky Layer quality.

REBEL
Natural Kolinsky 00 size ~7,6€
Natural Kolinsky 0 size ~7,9€
Natural Kolinsky 1 size ~8,1€
Natural Kolinsky 2 size ~9,2€
Natural Kolinsky 3 size ~11,6€

GREEN STUFF WORLD
Silver Series 00 6,56€
Silver Series 0 7,30€
Silver Series 1 8,66€
Silver Series 2 11,28€

ROUBLOFF
111F 00 ~5€
111F 0 ~5,3€
111F 1 ~5,7€
111F 2 ~10€
111F 3 ~23,5€



Natural Dry

Dry brushes is the final Rebel series and my personal favorite. Not only do they look and feel great, but the performance is stellar. I like the length of the brush toes – a bit shorter than the recently covered Notts Hobbies, but longer and softer than The Army Painter. Quality is great and the pricing seems fairly competitive.

REBEL
Drybrush S ~4,6€
Drybrush M ~7€
Drybrush L ~8,1€

THE ARMY PAINTER
Masterclass Drybrush Set (3 pieces) 19,99€

GREEN STUFF WORLD
Drybrush size 5 6,75€
Drybrush size 7 8€
Drybrush size 9 9€

NOTTS HOBBIES
Drybrush S ~7,20€
Drybrush M ~7,20€
Drybrush L ~7,20€



Brush Soap

A cherry on top is the Rebel Brush Soap, designed to be compatible with their brushes and help to extend their hobby lifetime. The soap comes in a 110ml plastic container, has a strong herbal smell and is oily in touch. It works with both natural and synthetic hair and is quite easy to use. This is the second container I got from Rebel. I have been using the previous one with good results for about a year now. Seems fairly priced around 5,8€.



Brush Rollbag

The final item to arrive from Rebel is the Brush Rollbag designed to hold and transport brushes. Sadly, although visually appealing, the item feels completely misdesigned. The strap has only one clip and as such cannot be modified to fit depending on overall tightness. More so the width of the rollbag is not enough to hold Rebel brushes inside. When covered with protective plastic tubes, some brushes stick out, but it gets worse in case of Flat Synthetics, which being longer than the rest, are sticking out even without protective tubes. On the bright side the quality of material is there and the entire thing can be hanged sideways and used as a brush holder, providing easy access to what’s inside.



Summary

Throughout two latest painting projects I got to know Rebel brushes rather intimately and had a good overall experience with them. My impressions vary between the series. I’m rather neutral towards the Synthetics, but dig the Kolinsky (especially the larger sizes), and am impressed by Drybrushes. The promos (purple) I have annihilated, but that’s to be expected. Considering my personal situation the pricing is never a decisive factor and I tend to purchase stuff that I like to work with. That being said the Rebel Synthetics seem overpriced on paper and I feel I can get the same value for less elsewhere. Kolinsky and Drybrushes I will genuinely consider when the time comes and I burn through the current stockpile. I would definitely be happy to find these brushes in local stores. If you are looking for new brushes, I sincerely recommend testing Rebel brushes and see if they click for you, especially the series that are priced competitively. And if you happen to find these brushes in-store at a discount – they’re a steal.



I hope you find this review interesting. Be sure to let me know your thoughts in the comments below, or at Facebook or Instagram. I would also appreciate it if you considered sharing this content with your friends, who might find it useful. Finally if you are looking for a professional miniatures painting service, be sure to contact me with this contact form. I always reply within 24 hours, after which please check out your spam folder.

Review: Notts Hobbies


If you ever consider expanding your weathering toolset or tapping into the mystic technique of drybrushing – the Notts Hobbies is here to ease your way into it. This UK based company offers a range of hobby tools designed specifically for weathering. In their strive to reach hobbyists around the globe, the Notts Hobbies asked me if I’d like to try out their products. Short after I’ve received the Notts Hobbies Complete Drybrushing Set and the Notts Hobbies Complete Weathering Set. Ran both of them through the painting gauntlet and here’s my thoughts…



Packaging and Visual Style

I believe that the first impressions matter a great deal. When seeing a product for the first time I expect to get an initial feel of the overall quality and what to expect from its performance. In my experience the first contact creates a bias that inevitably impacts the entire experience with the new tool, even if slightly. When it comes to Notts Hobbies products, the first impression was great. Simple, stylish, visually clean and not overdone. I got the feel that the person behind these products cares for quality over fake hype. Brushes, Drybrush Dampening Sponge and Drybrush Soap all came packaged in nice small boxes adding to the overall quality. Great first impression. I outright felt happy to compliment my workspace with these tools.



Complete Drybrushing Set

The Complete Drybrushing Set comes with three high quality goats hair brushes, a Drybrush Texture Palette, Drybrush Soap, Drybrush Dampening Sponge and a Dice Bag. A lot of stuff. Seems reasonably priced at 34,99GBP.



Brushes feel great. The hair is longer and a bit softer than the Army Painter and Citadel, which are the immediate competitors. A single outlier hair here and there, pretty common to all drybrushes, easy to fix. I had a really good performance with them. Very comfortable to work with. No hair broke loose. Finally, thanks to the length of the brush’s belly, it was easy to keep the ferrule clean and manage paint.



The Drybrush Dampening Sponge is awesome. The packaging might seem a bit fragile, but the sponge itself is just perfect for drybrushing. Synthetic sponge texture keeps the paint from drying out too fast and allows to leave the excess of it inside. It is also easy to clean outright and can be left outside to dry after the painting session. Fantastic tool – I genuinely love it.



Once the drybrushing’s done the Drybrush Soap comes in. Not only does it smell great (I had to take a break from writing this article for a quick whiff a few times), but it also works. Easy to use, getting bubbly with just a little bit of moisture. I used it right after rinsing the brushes to restore their brand new-like look. Wow!



Finally the Drybrush Texture Palette. This lightweight wooden gadget is a nice addition to the set. Wooden texture is great for drybrushing and allows you to loose some paint fast and without excessive moisture loss. Difficult to clean, but with high durability this item will probably serve a long time before the need of retirement.


Complete Weathering Set

The Complete Weathering Set contains a Weathering Sponge Holder and a set of 50 Weathering Sponges. These fancy thick foam cubes come packaged inside a translucent bag. An interesting proposal compared to large, cumbersome cosmetic makeup sponges with a useful tool to hold them with and apply paint with precision. Currently priced at 4,99GBP for the whole set (Including a lightweight, durable Holder) it seems competitively priced for what it brings to the table.



Personally I prefer regular sponges for a messy weathering, but after working with Notts Hobbies Weathering Sponges I can see a future use for them. They come especially handy when weathering sharp edges, such as Warhammer 40,000 vehicle armor, or when there’s a need for delicate dust-like effect.



Summary

Overall I had a great experience with Notts Hobbies products. From the very first contact, through over a week long, exhausting painting process these items had met my expectations. Reasonably priced stuff with stylish design. I especially like the goats hair brushes. These are currently my number one brushes for anything drybrush related. Really hit the mark for me. The rest of the stuff is definitely worth checking out so if you are looking to expand your hobby toolset, I sincerely recommend giving the Notts Hobbies a try. While at it, you can save 10% by using a discount code: scarhand10 this way you support your wallet and I get a cut as well. Win-win!



I hope you find this review interesting. Be sure to let me know your thoughts in the comments below, or at Facebook or Instagram. I would also appreciate it if you considered sharing this content with your friends, who might find it useful. Finally if you are looking for a professional miniatures painting service, be sure to contact me with this contact form. I always reply within 24 hours, after which please check out your spam folder.

KoW Armada: Unofficial Errata

Ahoy Sailors! As you know I am most and foremost a passionate hobbyist. That being said I am also a pirate, a scoundrel and a fanatical enthusiast of Mantic Games Kings of War: Armada – a naval strategy game set in a rich world of Pannithor, pitting multiple wonderfully crafted and strongly themed factions against one another. Today I’m here to share some of my maritime experience.


Why Errata, why unofficial?

In my opinion the Armada is as balanced and close to being perfect as a miniatures game can be. That being said, there’s always room for improvement. In my opinion it lies within the responsibility of the local game animators to adjust any game to better suit their community. On top of being a member of the Mantic Rules Committee for Armada, I have been running successful Armada Events for years now. Being so invested in the game I am constantly at the hobby frontlines, talking game balance with players, resolving rules issues and more. This led me to pinpoint a few neuralgic areas that might unintentionally lead to a slightly worse game experience. Below is an Unofficial Errata, very well received by my community, that I am using at local events. Some of these might or might not find their way to the official Mantic Games errata, nothing is certain. For now you are welcome to use these rules changes in your local games of Armada.



Collissions

Throughout my personal Armada experience the Collisions is the part of the rules that both my community and the players online seem to have the most problems with. Resolving Evade/Collision related movement might at times be unintuitive and when abused, by more experienced players, allow to set enemy ships on a Collision course on purpose (As described in the Collisions Baiting article). Because of that I tidied up the ruleset to resolve most issues:

Collisions – Evading (p20RB): Replace the second paragraph with the following:

However, if the ship doesn’t have the Movement value to clear the other ship in the current Move Step, it must instead stop just short (a few mm) of actual contact with the other ship. The Activating ship must now turn the smallest amount possible, and enough to just clear the other ship and any other obstacles with the remaining movement value in its current Move Step, even if this means turning further than would normally be allowed and through the bases of the other ship and the obstacles themselves. It can then continue the rest of its Activation as normal.

In a rare scenario when it is clear that no amount of turning will see the active ship clear of the other ship and all potential obstacles, the initial Collision cannot be Evaded.

Collisions – Colliding (p20RB): Replace the fifth paragraph with the following:

The Activating ship must now turn the smallest amount possible, and enough to just clear the other ship with its next Move Step, even if this means turning through the base of the other ship. The activating ship does not continue any further movement for this Move Step.

In case the turn to clear the other ship is blocked by any obstacles from both sides, do not turn the active ship and set its Speed to Anchored instead.

Examples:


Example A – Current Ruleset:
Active ship X passed a test to Evade and stopped short right before the other ship. It then turned left, the shortest possible* route to clear the other ship.
*Following “Ships cannot normally move or turn through other ships or
terrain (see Collisions on page 20).” from page 16 of the Rulebook.
Same result if the test to Evade was failed.

Example A – U.Errata:
Active ship X passed a test to Evade and stopped short right before the other ship. It then turned RIGHT, the shortest possible route and through the other ship to clear it.
Same result if the test to Evade was failed.

Example B – Current Ruleset:
Active ship X passed a test to Evade and stopped short right before the other ship. It then turned right, the shortest possible* route to clear the other ship. There is another ship in the way. What happens? Another test to Evade? If passed, is the Active ship bumped back to the previous course, the shortest possible route to clear the second ship?
*Following “Ships cannot normally move or turn through other ships or
terrain (see Collisions on page 20).” from page 16 of the Rulebook.
Same question if the test to Evade was failed.

Example B – U.Errata:
Active ship X passed a test to Evade and stopped short right before the other ship. It then turned LEFT, the shortest possible route and through the other ship to clear it and any surrounding obstacles.
Same result if the test to Evade failed.

Example C – Current Ruleset:
Active ship X passed a test to Evade and stopped short right before the other ship. It can barely turn left and right as both sides are blocked by other ships. How should this be resolved in accordance to the rules?
Same question if the test to Evade failed.

Example C – U.Errata:
Same as B after the change.
If the test to Evade was failed, after a Collision the activating ship is left in place and its speed set to Anchored.

Example D – Current Ruleset:
Active ship X passed a test to Evade and stopped short right before the other ship. It then turned right, the shortest possible route to clear the other ship. There is a Sandbank in the way. What happens? Another test to Evade? If failed, does the ship roll to Cross the Sandbank?
Same question if the test to Evade failed.

Example D – U.Errata:
Same as B after the change.
Same result if the test to Evade was failed.

Example E – Current Ruleset:
Active ship X passed a test to Evade and stopped short right before the other ship. It can then turn either right or left, the shortest possible route to clear the other ship. One side is blocked by another ship, the other by Rocks. What happens if the active ship turns into rocks? Would assume a Collision. If turned left to another ship, another Evade test then if passed bumped back?
Same question if the test to Evade failed.

Example E – U.Errata:
Same as B after the change, except due to same distance the active ship can choose direction.
If the test to Evade was failed, after a Collision the activating ship is left in place and its speed set to Anchored.

Example F – Current Ruleset:
Active ship X passed a test to Evade and stopped short right before the other ship. How to turn it to clear the other ship?
What if the test failed, a Collision ocured and the active ship must be turned to clear the other ship with any future Move steps? There’s no room to do that.
How to even resolve this?
Same question if the test to Evade failed.

Example F – U.Errata:
There is no way for the active ship to turn, ignoring the other ship and any obstacles to clear them. Test to Evade automatically fails. Collision occurs, after which due to all sides being blocked the active ship is left in place and its speed is set to Anchored.


Gunnery Skills

Sometimes, because of multiple negative To-Hit modifiers, stacked on top of one another, it is impossible to hit a closest ship. The rulebook does not allow to ignore such targets, resulting in situations when Inexperienced and Regular crewed ships can be completely blocked from shooting at an entire enemy fleet, because of a single Small target in the way. With fleets such as the Twilight Kin and the Trident Realms introducing additional negative To-Hit modifiers it seems important to resolve the issue…

Gunnery Skills (p22RB): Ships with Inexperienced and Regular crews, must target the closest available enemy ship in each fire arc (that is at least Partially Visible – see opposite). If the closest enemy ship is a Squadron (Tiny), has Surrendered or is Grappled with a friendly ship, or requires a roll of “11” or more to-hit, it can be ignored however, and the next closest enemy targeted instead.

Veteran crews may target any enemy ship in range in each Fire Arc (that is at least Partially Visible) if they successfully pass a Skill Test (for each Fire Arc being used). If the test is failed, the closest enemy ship must be targeted as described above.


Ghost Fleets Spectral Form

In order to level up the playing field for the Ghost Fleets I have added a small change to the Spectral Form rule. Previously the rule allowed for the enemy ships to move through the Ghost Fleet ships freely, all the while banning the Ghost ships themselves from doing so. Additionally it was too easy to set up a line of ships to sling shot enemy ships into Rocks or through the board’s edge (As described in Movement Slinghshoting article). Now neither Ghost Fleets nor any other fleet can set up a collision course on purpose, unless RAM (x), and both will have to pass a Skill Test to Evade before passing through one another.

Spectral Form: If a ship from this fleet Surrenders, is Grounded, or its SPs have been exceeded, remove the model from the table. Ghost ships do not suffer or inflict collisions with other ships. Instead, if the Evade test is failed, the activating ship completes its move as normal. If the activating ship would not end clear of the other ship, add enough movement until it does end clear, and then continue with the Activation. Each ship passed through (including the Ghost ship) will cause damage equal to a D10 plus its own CS to the other ship. e.g. An Elohi with CS 4 collides with a Spectre with CS 6. The Elohi inflicts 1D10 + 4 damage to the Spectre, and the Spectre inflicts 1D10 + 6 damage to the Elohi. Tiny ships take and inflict half damage (rounding up). Note that Ghost ships cannot deliberately ram/pass through an enemy ship. Ghost ships can never be set ablaze. Ghost Fleets always have Regular Crew, and this cannot be changed.


Oars/Engines

Got expanded in order to remove some bad game experience shenanigans from the game. No more “Dwarf Hunter Torpedoes” previously allowed by the rules as written.

Oars/Engines (p.36RB): Add the following paragraph:
Please note the Oars/Engines turn, at the start of a move step, cannot be used to set a ship on a Collision course in its next move step (unless another rule allows for a second turn between these move steps).

Q: Is it obligatory to use Oars/Engines before the move step if it allows to avoid a potential Collision?
A: Yes, unless another rule such as Ram (X) allows the ship to collide on purpose, it is obligatory to use the Oars/Engines if it allows to avoid a Collision. 


Balancing Changes

Addressed a few Fleet/Ship Rules and Upgrades that required attention. Done in a way that does not meddle with points values.

Elohi’s “Halo of Light”: If upgraded with Aegis Shield, add +1 to the amount of Damage that is reduced and lower the Damage requirement to use the reduction to 5 or more Damage.

Yinn Greythunder: Once per game, this ship may fire twice from one of its gun positions, but with an additional -2 to-hit modifier.

Kopeshii’s “Terror”: Enemy ships must re-roll successful Curse of Undeath Skill Tests when involved in Boarding Actions with this ship. This Ship has Ram [1] special rule and Grappling Hooks for free, not counting against the normal upgrade limit.

Baanshe’s “Banshee’s Wail”: Enemy ships suffer a -1 to-hit modifier on any Boarding Action attack rolls they make, while within 3″ of this ship.

Neddlefang’s “Attrition”: Friendly ships add 1 damage (to a maximum of plus 3) to any normal Shooting attack (from a Weapon Position) for each other Friendly ship with this rule within 6” (the attack must cause at least 1 damage itself for this to count). Extra damage is not added to results on the Critical Hit table. Add extra damage after any multiplication (such as Point Blank and Raking fire).

Ocarina of Korgaan (p.43RB): Once per game, instead of Rolling for Wind, so long as the ship with this Upgrade is still in play on the table, the owning player may choose to use the Ocarina of Korgaan. If so, first pick the clockwise or counter-clockwise then roll a D10 and Move the Wind Rose that many compass positions in the chosen direction. This may be done from Turn two onwards (unless the scenario being played has other winds rules in place for that Turn). If both players have this upgrade and want to use it in the same Turn, roll a D10 each. The player with the highest score gets to choose this Turn. The losing player may then use the upgrade in any following Turn.


GAME MODS

Contrary to the above, this section presents the ideas of rules updates that can be used to modify your games, similar to Full Wind Rules (Rulebook), Night Fighting (Seas of Dread) or Random Winds (Seas of Dread). The rules that got changed are working correctly and as intended, but can be adjusted for a more smooth gameplay and a slightly different tabletop experience.


Indirect Weapons

The Indirect Weapons missing and then scattering seems like a cumbersome, time consuming and rarely effective ruleset. It takes a lot of effort to implement and rarely produces any real impact on the game state. Still, it is a major component of the Indirect Weapons identity and for this purpose, instead of removing it completely, I have decided to rework the rule. 

Indirect Weapons (p.25RB): Replace the first paragraph with the following:

If an Indirect Weapon misses on a natural roll of “1” it will scatter towards another close target. The Indirect Weapon will then hit any ship within 3” from the initial target (chosen at random in case of multiple ships within that range). If there are no ships within 3” of the initial target ship, or the only ship within 3” is the firing ship, the shot misses instead.

Additional notes: Even though it might seem like the Indirect Weapons got straightforward better with the additional 10% to-hit chance, when there’s a viable secondary target in range – it can easily be played around by keeping ships in a wider formation. Moreover, getting close to enemy ships seems like a viable tactic to protect against Indirect Weapons and creates an opportunity to ‘score’ extra hits against the enemy fleet with their own guns. Furthermore this change incentives Regular and Veteran crew IDW platforms, above quantity. 


Ships on Fire

Ships on Fire is a rather contentious part of the Armada ruleset. In some situations the game forces players to choose between two bad outcomes, by either crashing into terrain, or risking an expensive ship being removed from play due to a bad roll of “1” on a D6. At the same time risk adds excitement and provides a memorable cinematic moment. To mitigate the impact, but keep the spirit of the rule in place I have made the following change:

Ships on Fire (p.28RB): Replace the fourth paragraph with the following:

If the test is failed, the ship will suffer D3 Damage if Tiny or Small, D6 Damage if Medium, and D10 Damage if Large or Extra Large. In addition, if the Skill Test rolls a natural 1, the fire reaches the ship’s ammunition and the ship is immediately Crippled (suffer additional Damage to reach the Nv), or if already Crippled it explodes instead! All other ships within 4” of the exploding ship suffer D10 damage (roll separately for each ship). The exploding ship is destroyed, remove it from play.


Fliers

The Fliers is a mostly forgotten addition to the game brought in with Seas Aflame book. Because of a rather strict movement ruleset combined with a movement related attack requirement, the Fliers struggle to deal consistent damage and follow up their targets. The below change is meant to add movement flexibility and skirmish opportunities more in line with Fliers fluff and role they are meant to fulfill on the gaming board.

Fliers Movement (p.6SA): Replace the second paragraph with the following:

To change direction, once during their Activation the fliers turn on their centre point in the same way that Squadrons do. However, they must move at least 4” forward in a straight line before they can execute a turn.

Hover (p.6SA): Replace with:

If a flier has the Hover special rule, it can turn at any point during its move and can ignore the requirement of a minimum of 4”, moving anything between 0” and up to its full Movement value.


I will keep the above list up to date, adding and removing things if they happen to show up in future Errata so stay tuned and remember – this is all Unofficial, to use at your discretion.

I hope you find this article interesting. Be sure to let me know your thoughts in the comments below or via Facebook or Instagram. I would also appreciate it if you considered sharing this content with your friends, who might find it useful. Finally if you are looking for a professional Warhammer miniatures painting service, be sure to contact me with this contact form. I always reply within 24 hours, after which please check out your spam folder.

Colour Recipe: Infinity Combined Army

Here are some Color Recipes for the Combined Army. Please take note that this is a simple color scheme, not covering multiple overlapping layers and blends in between, that lead to the final product. It is supposed to be used as guideline not a step-by-step.


BLACK/GREY armour & weapons:

Black Undercoat,

Panzer Dark Grey (Val),*

Fenrisian Grey (GW), l&p

Pallid Wych Flesh (GW), l&p

Dark Tone Ink (AP),

Pallid Wych Flesh (GW), l&p


ORANGE fibers:

Mix: Hot Orange (Val) 1:1 Heavy Orange (Val)

Heavy Orange (Val), flbr, l&p

Mix: Strong+Soft 6:3:1 Bloodletter (GW), Medium, wash

Skin Tone (val), l

Hot Orange (val a), bl

Skin Tone (val), p



BROWN:

Satchel Brown (AP), bl

Khaki (AP), l&p


PURPLE blades:

Warlord Purple (Val a), bl

Squid Pink (Val), l&p

Warlord Purple (Val a), bl

Off White (Val), l&p



SKIN:

Tan (Val),

Anthea Skin (Val), flbr

Skin Tone (Val), l&p

Mix Purple Tone Ink (AP) 2:1:1 Strong Tone Ink (AP), Medium, wash

Skin Tone (Val), l&p


BASES:

Bloody Land (AK Interactive), texture

Heavy Orange (Val), drbr

Alien Fire Tufts (Gamers Grass),


l&p – lines and points,

p – points,

bl – blend,

gl – glaze,

drbr – drybrush,

flbr – flatbrush,

stpl – stippling,

*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)



I hope you find this tutorial interesting. Be sure to let me know your thoughts in the comments below, or at Facebook or Instagram. I would also appreciate it if you considered sharing this content with your friends, who might find it useful. Finally if you are looking for a professional miniatures painting service, be sure to contact me with this contact form. I always reply within 24 hours, after which please check out your spam folder.

Basing: Ballsy Bases

Welcome to Ballsy Bases tutorial. Here I will take you on a Step-by-step trip through the process of creating Ballsy Bases that, although might not seem like it, were always canon, since the first of the Ten Thousand…


Before we start, some notes:

  • This one does require airbrush.
  • To better demonstrate the technique I used standard 50mm and 32mm round bases.
  • As usual, please take note that what works for me might not necessarily work for you.

Required materials:

For this tutorial I will be using:

  • Super Glue
  • PVA Glue
  • Hey-Clay or similar putty
  • Gamers Grass Alien Void 6mm tufts
  • Black plastic rods (explained later in the article)

Step one: Landscape

I started by applying Super Glue onto a base then adding a small ball of Hey-Clay on top. I then used my fingers to gently caress the ball and shape it into a sack-like lump. Next I used a steel brush and applied pressure to add additional texture. I let it dry for approximately six hours, then went back and used a long, hard brush to smear the thick white PVA glue all over the base and seal it.



Step two: Fleshy Colors

I applied a matt black undercoat then painted the entirety of the base with a thick layer of Vallejo 72.107 Anthea Skin. Next, I grabbed a thick brush right in the middle, then drybrushed the whole thing with Vallejo 72.100 Rosy Flesh hard, then again with Vallejo 72.099 Skin Tone.



Step three: Curly Hair

There are multiple sources of natural and synthetic curled hair. For this tutorial I used the inside of a kitchen knife stand, but I recommend experimenting a bit with brushes or whatever you might come across during brave hobby exploration. I pulled a few single plastic rods out of the knife stand and wrapped them over a brush handle. I then cut them into, about 4cm long, small springs. These I have gently pushed into the ‘meat’ of the sack, followed by a small droplet of Super Glue to seal the deal.



Step four: Shag

Finally I glued a few Gamers Grass Alien Void tufts on top in seemingly random places. After repainting the edge black, the job was done. ‘perfection’



Thanks to Wargamingowy Shitposting for indirectly sponsoring this material.


I hope you find this tutorial interesting. Be sure to let me know your thoughts in the comments below, or at Facebook or Instagram. I would also appreciate it if you considered sharing this content with your friends, who might find it useful. Finally if you are looking for a professional miniatures painting service, be sure to contact me with this contact form. I always reply within 24 hours, after which please check out your spam folder.

Review: A-Case Portable Painting Station


A-Case, the company best known for their outstanding magnetic transportation cases for miniatures, is at it yet again! If you follow my content you know that I am a big A-Case fanboy and in a close relation with the company. So much so as to participate in testing of ‘everything A-Case’ before release and providing feedback that is then implemented into the final design. That is to say that although clearly biased, I can recommend A-Case products with full confidence in their quality and functionality. This goes for the Portable Painting Station as well.



Portable Painting Station

The Portable Painting Station is a set of cleverly designed extensions for the A-Case Victory, transforming this compact miniature carrying case into a mobile hobby workshop. Apart from the case, the set comes with:
* Two detachable LED top lights with appropriate click-in mounts.
* Two detachable LED front lights with magnetized mounts.
* Photographic background with detachable, magnetic mounts.
* Photographic background exterior Velcro based holder.
* Magnetic water cup.
* Magnetic Accessory/Paints transportation box.
* Shelf-to-Tray extension.
* Detachable carrying strap.



Painting Setup

Sometimes, be it on vacation, visiting a family member, or just on the move the only thing you might want is to sit down and paint your miniatures. The A-Case Portable Painting Station provides a way to not only transport miniatures and essential hobby accessories with ease, but also create a firm, cozy, well lit hobby space for you to work at. Revolving around a compact carrying case the hobby space is enough to get some work done, in comfort, and keep the ‘artistic mess’ contained.



Following the ‘magnetic’ theme of the entire A-Case line, the set comes with an array of additional magnetic accessories such as Water Cup and the Paint Box. These, combined with some classic A-Case accessories such as the Magnetic Painting Grip, can then be transported, with ease and safely, on top of an extended tray.



Photographic Setup

Personally I find sharing pictures of finished miniatures online to be very exciting. Taking such pictures? Not so much. It usually takes a lot of setup to get a few good quality pics and up until recently I wouldn’t be able to imagine doing this while traveling. That is – until now! The A-Case Portable Painting Station is supplied with a detachable photographic background and a set of additional LED lights that quickly transform a working space into a miniature photographic studio. I could go on on the results, but I think the below pictures speak for themselves.



Not everyone might be interested in miniature photography during a trip. That’s fine, because A-Case takes your individual preferences into consideration. The background can be rolled up and attached to the exterior of the case while additional LEDs fit to the front accessory pocket. You decide if you want to leave these accessories or take them with you. 



Summary

The Portable Painting Station expands the already vast range of A-Case functionality into a completely new territory, maintaining the theme of magnetized accessory compatibility along the way. It is a well thought through, user friendly and easy to transport hobby gadget – perfectly suited for anyone who’d like to take their hobby away from home. I have done some thorough testing, including an Easter trip. The quality is there, the product does exactly what it was designed for. I am impressed by the functionality and although clearly biased, I can vouch for the Portable Painting Station with my name on the line.



Where To Buy

The Portable Painting Station is available from the official A-Case online store.


I hope you find this review interesting. Be sure to let me know your thoughts in the comments below, or at Facebook or Instagram. I would also appreciate it if you considered sharing this content with your friends, who might find it useful. Finally if you are looking for a professional miniatures painting service, be sure to contact me with this contact form. I always reply within 24 hours, after which please check out your spam folder.

Review: KRYDRUFI All-In-One Modular Art Box


Watching the miniatures hobby industry from within for over two decades can definitely yield a few observations, such as what trends dominate the current period. If I was to pick one it would definitely be “all-in-one”, starting with portable painting stations, transportation cases and hobby tools aimed to help artists that might struggle with limited space. Nowadays I am more of a sedentary type of a hobbyist, but I used to work in a hobby store and travel quite a lot, carrying my hobby around. All that to say that regardless of my current situation I can appreciate easy to transport, modular hobby solutions. One of which, the All-In-One Modular Art Box by KRYDRUFI, I would like to present to you in this article.



Long story short, I was recently contacted by KRYDRUFI asking if I would like to test out the All-In-One Modular Art Box, to which I agreed. The item arrived in good condition a few days later, all the way from China. I’m a sucker for the high aesthetic value of packaging both overall and of each individual piece and the first impression was great.



All-In-One Modular Art Box

The All-In-One Modular Art Box comes with a variety of functionality. It usually consists of
* Large two-chambers Water Bucket,
* Two separate Water Tanks equipped with Silicone Brush Cleaning Inserts,
* A total of four Brush Holders,
* Two Airtight Paint Storages,
* Two Wet Palettes with a 5mm Sponge and Disposable Palette Paper supply,



Upper Modules Functionality

After taking the All-In-One Modular Art Box outside and painting miniatures in the garden, I can genuinely say that I am impressed by the plethora of functionality squeezed into this single, relatively small product.


As someone used to working long painting sessions, I am especially fond of a large Water Bucket. Thanks to the separation through the middle, the Water Bucket, combined with two Water Tanks, results in less time spent on replacing dirty water and more time spent on actual painting.


Probably the most ingenious of the entire set are the Brush Holders, especially the two with small containers at the bottom. No need to worry about messing up the table in a hotel with a dripping wet brush – these puppies have you covered!


Two Brush Cleaning Inserts are a cherry on top. Not everyone will appreciate them, but I’m one of those painters for whom this is a perfect brush cleaning solution. 


Finally, all these things fit into the Water Bucket to get carried as a whole, or just save space on the workbench between projects. A brilliant idea designed to make best use of the limited work space – what’s not to love about it?



Lower Modules Functionality

Apart from the obvious, being able to adjust the number of lower modules and then stack them via special side clamps to carry the whole thing around is just brilliant. I can easily imagine combining two sets into one giant stack, while leaving one fully equipped upper part on the in-house workbench. As for the clamps, they are pretty hard to unlock and I am not sure as to how they would perform in the long run. Plastic seems somewhere between brittle and solid, only time will show if it loosens up or breaks.


For those of us pre-planning the paint job, the Airtight Paint Storage is a perfect solution to save space on travel via pouring a bit of each required paint into an individual slot, instead of carrying each bottle separately. Can also be used to great effect to sort and storage small parts. It is relatively easy to clean as well.



Last but not least, I don’t know about you, but me personally – I love to keep particular tools well organized and in one place. I would imagine the stackable Wet Palettes will suit multiple painting projects perfectly and save space on the working bench. Not to mention spare paper clipped on top and in between the Palettes, rather than kept separately.



The set comes equipped with a Highly Moisturizing Sponge for each Wet Palette and a stack of Disposable Palette Paper. The quality of both seem on par with items from other suppliers I worked on previously. They seem to be pretty durable, but can also be resupplied from the KRYDRUFI online store if needed.




Summary

In my opinion the KRYDRUFI All-In-One Modular Art Box embodies the All-In-One aspect completely, offering a variety of functionality and modularity. Most importantly it comes in a very compact, space saving form, which for many might be the deal breaker. The price varies between $20 USD for the entire upper module (KRYDRUFI Cleaning* Brush Holder Module) to about $46 USD for the full set (KRYDRUFI All-In-One Modular Art Box Ultra). The KRYDRUFI All-In-One Modular Art Box seems like a perfect solution for artists who may struggle with limited space or budgets, and the difficulty of organizing tools of various sizes. The Low price point of the product for what it brings to the table makes it even better. So if you are one of the hobbyists who’d like to keep their tools well-organized and easily accessible, then in my opinion the KRYDRUFI All-In-One Modular Art Box is the way to go.



Where To Buy

The item is available directly from KRYDRUFI online store and you can get a 10% discount by using my link and the code KRYDRUFI-SCARHANDPAINTING on checkout. More so, if you do, I will get a 10% commission thus not only will you save but also support my little hobby endeavor. Seems like a win-win.


I hope you find this review interesting. Be sure to let me know your thoughts in the comments below, or at Facebook or Instagram. I would also appreciate it if you considered sharing this content with your friends, who might find it useful. Finally if you are looking for a professional miniatures painting service, be sure to contact me with this contact form. I always reply within 24 hours, after which please check out your spam folder.

Tutorial: Painting Warhammer 40,000 Crimson Fists part three Metal

Welcome to Painting Warhammer 40,000 Crimson Fists tutorial. Here I will present to you a Step-by-step of an easy and fast painting process for Games Workshop Crimson Fists Primaris Marines metal as can be seen in Gallery: Crimson Fists.


Before we start, some notes:

  • This tutorial does not require an airbrush.
  • You can use any paints, not just the ones I recommend. You can use this chart to compare paints between popular brands.
  • Please note pictures present a huge miniature under strong light that might result in a feel of messy and clumsy paint job.
  • As usual, please take note that what works for me might not necessarily work for you.

Previous steps: Blue Armor

Although metal elements can be painted separately I strongly recommend following part one of the article before moving to this color. Visit Tutorial: Painting Warhammer 40,000 Crimson Fists part one Blue Armor for more information.



Step one: Base Color

The initial layer was painted manually (no airbrush) with Vallejo Game Color – Tinny Tin (72.060). The color is relatively thin making it easy to move into any recesses, but also maintains a strong coverage, which is good because covering the entire surface is imperative for this particular layer.



Step two: Highlight

Next I manually applied a large area (flatbrush) highlight of Vallejo Game Color – Chainmail (72.053). A much brighter steel color with strong pigmentation to cover most of the surface, except recesses.



Step three: Highlight

I then applied a more contained highlight of Vallejo Game Color – Silver (72.052), switching between edge highlight and flatbrush.



Step four: Wash

Lastly I applied a lot of The Army Painter – Strong Tone Wash. I like to go hard on washes, applying lots and lots of them to allow for pigmentation to do its thing.



Extra Step: Final Highlight

Depending on the level of paint job I sometimes apply a final, soft highlight of Vallejo Game Color – Silver (72.052). This might work especially good for tiny detail such as chains, Imperial Aquila and similar, making steel look crisp and sharp. Unfortunately I skipped this part for the Eradicators so you’d have to take my word for how it works, or see other Crimson Fists miniatures for reference.



I hope you’ve enjoyed this article. Be sure to let me know your thoughts in the comments below or via Facebook or Instagram. I would also appreciate it if you considered sharing this content with your friends, who might find it interesting. Finally if you are looking for a professional miniatures painting service, be sure to contact me with this contact form. I always reply within 24 hours, after which please check out your spam folder.