• contact@scarhandpainting.com

Tag Archives: Recipe

Colour Recipes: Adeptus Titanicus Legio Vulpa

Here are some Colour Recipes for Mid-Nor from Gallery: Adeptus Titanicus Legio Vulpa. Please take note that this is a simple colour scheme, not covering multiple overlapping layers and blends in between, that lead to the final product. It is supposed to be used as guideline not a step-by-step.

METAL under-armour:

Black Undercoat,

Mix Metallic Black (Val air) 1:1 Metallic Rust (Val air),*

Gun Metal (AP), flbr

Shining Metal (AP), flbr

Strong Tone Ink (AP),

Shining Metal (AP), l&p

Rust Streaks (AK Interactive), effects

PURPLE armour:

White Preshade,*

Hexen Lichen (Val air),* stenciled

Hexen Lichen (Val air),*

RED Armour:

White Preshade,*

Gory Red (Val air),*

Black Wash for Vehickles (Val),* stenciled

GOLD/BONE ornamentation:

Bonewhite (Val air), bl

Strong Tone Ink (AP),

Pallid Wych Flesh (GW), l&p

Strong Tone Ink (AP),

Off White (Val), l&p

GREEN light:

Duck Egg Green (Val air), p

Light Livery Green (Val air),*

Waywatcher Green (GW), glaze

Off White (Val), l&p

BLUE light:

Light Sea Blue (Val air),*

White,*

Guilliman Blue (GW), glaze

Off White (Val), l&p

l&p – lines and points,

p – points,

bl – blend,

gl – glaze,

drbr – drybrush,

fltbr – flatbrush,

lobr – loaded brush,

stpl – stippling,

*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)

Nazroth

Tutorial: Modelling Rocky Bases with Gamers Grass

Welcome to Rocky Bases tutorial. Here I will take you on a Step-by-step trip through the process of creating and painting Rocky Bases as presented in the picture below. This adventure is possible thanks to generosity of Gamers Grass and their easy to use, fantastic products.

Before we start, some notes:

  • This one does not requires airbrush.
  • To better demonstrate the technique used I used standard 55mm and 25mm round bases.
  • As usual, please take note that what works for me might not necessarily work for you.

Modelling:

As mentioned in previous Tutorial, when making bases, I usually aim for fast, simple, yet effective solutions. It is important to pick a basing method that is easy to copy onto large quantities of miniatures or coming back to a project. This is why I consider Gamers Grass Basing Bits a perfect solution. Nicely textured, ready to use straight out of the box – glue them on, add some texture around – you’re ready to paint. All that being said – for this particular base type I choose Gamers Grass “Rocks” basing bits.

Step one: Applying basing bits

I started by applying glue onto the base and gluing few basing bits on top.

Step two: Applying texture

I then applied texture with Games Workshop Stirland Mud.

At this point entire “Modelling” part is done. If  it seem fast it’s because it really is. Just two steps and you’re ready to paint!

Painting:

I choose to paint these Rocky bases in a classic Bron plus Grey style. Assuming these are meant to be used for a large collection, I want to keep things simple. Would be perfect to close in about three layers per color, with a single type of tufts on top. Just your everyday nice looking, coherent bases. Here’s how I went about it…

Step two: Undercoat

I applied a black undercoat.

Step two: Main color

I then painted entire base with Vallejo Charred Brown. Once dry I drybrushed Games Workshop Calthan Brown on top.

Step two: Secondary color

For rocks I went with Vallejo Panzer Dark Grey, followed by a drybrush of Games Workshop Fortress Grey.

Step tree: Highlights

Final highlight was done with a drybrush of Games Workshop Karak Stone for brown and a drybrush of Vallejo Ghost Grey for rocks.

Step tree: Tufts

Finally I applied Gamers Grass Swamp Wild Tufts.


And with that the job was done! Fast and easy – as all bases should be. I hope this was a pleasant tutorial and that you saw how simple the process is. If you want to learn more about Gamers Grass products – here’s my review:

Tutorial: Temple Bases with Gamers Grass

Nazroth

Tutorial: Modelling Temple Bases with Gamers Grass

Welcome to Temple Bases tutorial. Here I will take you on a Step-by-step trip through the process of creating and painting Temple Bases as presented in the picture below. This adventure is possible thanks to generosity of Gamers Grass and their easy to use, fantastic products.

Before we start, some notes:

  • This one requires airbrush.
  • To better demonstrate the technique used I used standard 55mm and 25mm round bases.
  • As usual, please take note that what works for me might not necessarily work for you.

Modelling:

In my opinion base is supposed to complement a miniature, not steal the spotlight. For this reason, when making bases, I usually aim for fast, simple, yet effective solutions. Important thing to note when deciding on what to use for your bases is to pick a method that is easy to copy. This is why I consider Gamers Grass Basing Bits a perfect solution. Nicely textured, ready to use straight out of the box – glue them on, add some texture around – you’re ready to paint. All that being said – for this particular base type I choose Gamers Grass “Temple” basing bits.

Step one: Applying basing bits

I started by applying glue onto the base and gluing few basing bits on top.

Step two: Applying texture

I then applied texture with Games Workshop Stirland Mud.

At this point entire “Modelling” part is done. If  it seem fast it’s because it really is. Just two steps and you’re ready to paint!

Painting:

I choose to paint these Temple bases in a bit of a Desert’ish style. Let’s say these are meant to be used for a large army. I want to keep things simple, best if within three layers per color, crowned with a single type of tufts. Nothing fancy, just nice looking, coherent bases. Here’s how I went about it…

Step two: Undercoat

I applied a black undercoat. This is my usual start for everything 😛

Step two: Main color

I then airbrushed Vallejo Desert Yellow over entire base. Once dry I applied Vallejo European Dust Wash.

Step two: Secondary color

For ruins I choose Vallejo Cold Grey, followed by a wash of water thinned Vallejo Dark Panzer Grey.

Step tree: Highlights

I then highlighted both colors with a soft drybrush of Games Workshop Flayed One Flesh. I also applied some highlights with the same color on the edges of ruins – just a bit to make them pop.

Step tree: Tufts

Finally I applied Gamers Grass Burned Wild Tufts.


Job done! There’s some poetry in both starting and finishing a base using products from the same company 😛 Either way – I hope this was a pleasant tutorial and that you saw how simple the process is. If you want to learn more about Gamers Grass products – here’s my review:

Tutorial: Temple Bases with Gamers Grass

Nazroth

Tutorial: Painting Black Marble

Welcome to Painting Black Marbe tutorial. Here I will take you on a Step-by-step trip through the process of painting black marble.

Before we start, some notes:

  • This one requires airbrush.
  • To better demonstrate the technique used I used standard 55mm and 25mm round bases.
  • As usual, please take note that what works for me might not necessarily work for you.

Step one: Undercoat

I started with an airbrushed layer of White.

Step two: Base texture

For this step I used a Steel Wool stencil prepared in the previous Tutorial: Painting Marble. I simply took few pieces of steel wool, taped them together and used them as a stencil. I then airbrushed black paint through the stencil. Furthermore in some places I have removed black paint with a wet toothpick to create strong white lines.

Step three: Texture

Next I added a layer of texture by manually applied stains of Vallejo Pale Grey Wash. After waiting half a minute I removed the excess of the paint with a paper towel.

Step four: More texture

I then applied stains of Vallejo Air White, but this time removed the excess of the paint with slightly pressured water. You can simply airbrush water with around 0,5 bar pressure if you don’t have a sprinkler.

Step five: Sealing the colour

To seal the colour I applied an even, smooth layer of Army Painter Dark Tone Ink.

Step five: Gloss

Finally I applied two layers of airbrushed Gloss Varnish. This resulted in a nice polished glossy look but also added that 3d look to different layers.

Here’s how the finished base looks like. 

Bonus Method:

This bonus method is much simpler and I think it had a lot of potential, still I stumbled upon it by accident just fed ways ago and hadn’t had time to test it thoroughly. Here’s basics:

  • Use wet soft tissue (for babies or something),
  • Tear small holes in it,
  • Paint entire surface black,
  • Use tissue as a stencil and airbrush white through it,

Done! Seems mind blowing? Surely is. Have I done this right? Totally no 😛 White spots are too large, but as mentioned – there’s potential in the method and at some point I will find a way to make it work.

Note from the author: I hope you enjoyed this article. Be sure to let me know what you think in the comments or at my facebook. If you ever use the tutorial – please tag me at facebook or send pics through Line app to scarhandpainting, so I can enjoy your work 😉

Nazroth

Tutorial: Painting Marble

Welcome to Painting Marbe tutorial. Here I will take you on a Step-by-step trip through the process of painting marble the same way as seen at: Gallery: Horus Lupercal

Before we start, some notes:

  • This one requires airbrush.
  • To better demonstrate the technique used I used standard 55mm and 25mm round bases.
  • As usual, please take note that what works for me might not necessarily work for you.

Step one: Undercoat

I started with a solid layer of Vallejo German Red Brown. Any similar colour would do.

Step two: Base texture

For this step I used a life hack. I took few pieces of steel wool, taped them together and used them as a stencil. I then airbrushed pure white paint through the stencil and onto the bases.

Step three: Texture

Next I applied more layers of marble texture. This time I manually applied irregular stains of Army Painter Strong Tone Ink, waited half a minute then removed the paint with a paper towel. I then repeated the process once again applying and then removing excess Strong Tone Ink.

Step four: Sealing the colour

I then painted entire base with Army Painter Soft Tone Ink thinned with Games Workshop Lahmian Medium. I tried to keep the layer smooth and even.

Step five: Gloss

Finally I applied two layers of airbrushed Gloss Varnish. This resulted in a nice polished glossy look. Depending on the effect you aim for Gloss Varnish can be switched with either Satin ot pure Matt. 

Here’s how the finished base looks like. 

Note from the author: This tutorial is by far the most popular article on Scarhandpainting.com. It was first published in early 2016 and then refurbished exactly four years later. I hope you enjoy this new look and that the tutorial is now much easier to follow. Comments and Critique are welcome. 

Nazroth

Colour Recipes: Warhammer 40,000 Tau Sa’Cea

Here are some Colour Recipes for Sa’Cea Tau from Gallery: Tau Sa’Cea. Please take note that this is a simple colour scheme, not covering multiple overlapping layers and blends in between, that lead to the final product. It is supposed to be used as guideline not a step-by-step.

BLUE armour:

French Blue (Val), *

Ultramarine Blue (Val), *

Mix Ultramarine Blue (Val) 5:2 Light Sea Blue (Val), *

Black Wash For Dark Vehicles (Val), *

Hoeth Blue (GW), l&p

Glacier Blue (Val), l&p

GREY:

Dark Panzer Grey (Val), *

Cold Grey (Val), *

Wolf Grey (Val), l&p

Dark Tone Ink (AP), blend

ORANGE:

Macharius Solar Orange (GW),

Fire Dragon Bright (GW),

Elf Skintone (Val), l&p

GREEN OSL:

Duck Egg Green (Val), *

Light Livery Green (Val), *

Ivory (Val), l&p

SKIN:

Shadow Grey (GW),

Mix Shadow Grey (GW) 1:1 Frostbite (P3),

Mix Shadow Grey (GW) 1:2 Frostbite (P3), drbr

Frostbite (P3), Soft drbr

l&p – lines and points,

p – points,

bl – blend,

gl – glaze,

drbr – drybrush,

fltbr – flatbrush,

lobr – loaded brush,

stpl – stippling,

*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)

Nazroth

Colour Recipes: Confrontation Mid-Nor

Here are some Colour Recipes for Mid-Nor from Gallery: Confrontation Mid-Nor. Please take note that this is a simple colour scheme, not covering multiple overlapping layers and blends in between, that lead to the final product. It is supposed to be used as guideline not a step-by-step.

BLACK/GREY armour:

Black Undercoat,

Panzer Dark Grey (Val), *

Fenrisian Grey (GW), l&p

Pallid Wych Flesh (GW), l&p

Dark Tone Ink (AP),

Pallid Wych Flesh (GW), l&p

PURPLE skin:

Warpfiend Grey (GW),

Slaanesh Grey (GW),

Mix Purple Tone Ink (AP) 2:1:1 Strong Tone Ink (AP), Medium,

Slaanesh Grey (GW), l&p

Mix Slaanesh Grey (GW) 1:1 Pale Flesh (Val), l&p

Pale Wych Flesh (GW), l&p

FLESH skin:

(PURPLE skin base),

Dwarf Flesh (GW), fltbr

Mix Dwarf Flesh (GW) 1:1 Pale Flesh (Val), fltbr

Mix Purple Tone Ink (AP) 2:1:1 Strong Tone Ink (AP), Medium,

Pale Wych Flesh (GW), l&p

METAL armour:

See: Tutorial: Painting “Five Layers” Metal

Warplock Bronze (GW),

Gun Metal (AP), flbr

Shining Metal (AP), flbr

Strong Tone Ink (AP),

Shining Metal (AP), l&p

GREEN light:

Duck Egg Green (Val), p

Light Livery Green (Val),*

Waywatcher Green (GW), glaze

Off White (Val), l&p

Light Livery Green (Val), b

BASES:

Panzer Dark Grey (Val, air), *

Cold Grey (Val, air),

Fenrisian Grey, fltbr

Wolf Grey (Val), fltbr, l&p

Strong Tone Ink (AP),

Wolf Grey (Val), l&p

Earth (Val), b

Purple Tone Ink (Val), b

 

l&p – lines and points,

p – points,

bl – blend,

gl – glaze,

drbr – drybrush,

fltbr – flatbrush,

lobr – loaded brush,

stpl – stippling,

*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)

Nazroth

Tutorial: Painting Daemonic Purple Skin

Welcome to Painting Daemonic Purple Skin tutorial. Here I will take you on a Step-by-step trip through the process of painting purple skin the same way as seen at: Gallery: Confrontation Mid-Nor

Before we start, some notes:
* This one requires basics of loaded brush technique.
* For the purpose of this tutorial I used a Confrontation Mid-Nor miniature that has a large detail and is better to show the steps on.
* As usual, please take note that what works for me might not necessarily work for you.

Ready to do this? I assume your miniature is already painted black (or in my case first layers of “Infinity Black“), so buckle up and let’s go!

*  Start with a solid layer of Warpfiend Grey (GW). The layer does not have to be perfectly smooth. The goal is to make sure all deep areas are filled with paint. I tend to thin down the paint with a bit of water to fasten this step.

*  orem ipsum dolor sit amet, Integer commodo tristiqu odio, aliquet ut. Maecenas sed justo imperdiet bibendum. Vivamus nec sapien imperdiet diam. Aliquam erat volutpat. Sed onsectetur suscipit nunc et rutrum. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet,volutpat. Sed onsectetur suscipit nunc et rutrum. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, volutpat.

*  Time for a little bit of magic trickery. Wash with a mix of Purple Tone Ink (AP) 2:1:1 Strong Tone Ink (AP), Lahmian Medium (GW).

*  Back to Slaanesh Grey (GW). Here's where loaded brush becomes handy. Repaint all the exterior areas with Slaanesh Grey. Might be a bit thinned, the paint has enough pigment to do the job.

*  Now same thing, but with a mix of Slaanesh Grey (GW) with just a bit of Pale Flesh (Val). This time though focus in edges and middle points of larger areas.

…and that’s it. You can further highlight edges and important points adding more Pale Flesh (Val) to the mix. The end result looks like this:

Nazroth

Colour Recipes: Shadespire Stormsire’s Cursebreakers

Here are some Colour Recipes for Haqqislam from Gallery: Shadespire Stormsire’s Cursebreakers. Please take note that this is a simple colour scheme, not covering multiple overlapping layers and blends in between, that lead to the final product. It is supposed to be used as guideline not a step-by-step.

TURQUISE clothes:

Coal Black (P3), *

Turquise (Val), *

Mix Turquise (Val) 2:1 White, *

Arcane Blue (P3), l&p

METAL armour:

See: Tutorial: Painting “Five Layers” Metal

Warplock Bronze (GW),

Gun Metal (AP), flbr

Shining Metal (AP), flbr

Strong Tone Ink (AP),

Shining Metal (AP), l&p

GREEN light:

Duck Egg Green (Val),*

Light Livery Green (Val),

Waywatcher Green (GW),

Off White (Val), l&p

Grey handles:

Panzer Dark Grey (Val),

Fenrisian Grey (GW),

Dark Tone Ink (AP),

Off White (Val), l&p

BASES:

Medium Sea Grey (Val), *

Light Grey (Val)*,

Pale Grey (Val),*

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),

Off White (Val), l&p

Dirt (Val), bl

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP), bl

l&p – lines and points,

p – points,

bl – blend,

gl – glaze,

drbr – drybrush,

flbr – flatbrush,

lobr – loaded brush,

stpl – stippling,

*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)


Nazroth

Colour Recipes: Warhammer 40,000 Tau Elysian Desert

Here are some Colour Recipes for Haqqislam from Gallery: Tau XV95 Ghostkeel. Please take note that this is a simple colour scheme, not covering multiple overlapping layers and blends in between, that lead to the final product. It is supposed to be used as guideline not a step-by-step.

CAMO pattern:

Castellan Green (GW),*

[Painting tape masking]

Elysian Green (GW)*

HEX pattern:

Mix Sand Yellow (Val 1) 4:1 Bonewhite (Val a),*

INNER mesh:

Earth (Val a), *

Sand Yellow (Val a), *

European Dust (Val),

Flayed One Flesh (GW), l&p

Light Brown (Val a), *

BLUE LIGHT:

Light Sea Blue (Val a), *

White (Val a), *

White, l&p

Guilliman Blue GW), glaze

Gloss Varnish,

CACTUS:

Camo Green (GW), *

Camo Green (GW), fltbr

Mix Camo Green (GW) 2:1 Pale Wych Flesh (GW), fltbr

CACTUS Blossom:

Warlord Purple (Val),

Squid Pink (Val), fltbr

l&p – lines and points,

p – points,

bl – blend,

gl – glaze,

drbr – drybrush,

flbr – flatbrush,

lobr – loaded brush,

stpl – stippling,

*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)

Nazroth