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Here are some Colour Recipes for Kings of War: Armada Empire of Dust from Gallery: Armada Twilight Kin. Please take note that this is a simple colour scheme, not covering multiple overlapping layers and blends in between, that lead to the final product. It is supposed to be used as guideline not a step-by-step.
‘BROWN’ hulls:
Tinny Tin (Vallejo), *
Hammered Copper (Vallejo), flbr
Silver (Vallejo), flbr
-Strong Tone (The Army Painter), *strong
-Strong Tone (The Army Painter), *soft & dry
–Vallejo Poliurethane Matt Varnish, *
PURPLE sails:
Mix Midnight Purple (Vallejo air) 1:1 Midnight Purple (Vallejo), *
-Strong Tone (The Army Painter), *strong
-Strong Tone (The Army Painter), *soft & dry
Mix Midnight Purple (Vallejo air) 5:1 Alien Purple (Vallejo Air), *
Mix Midnight Purple (Vallejo air) 3:1 Alien Purple (Vallejo Air), *
Alien Purple (Vallejo Air), * soft zenithal highlight
–Vallejo Poliurethane Matt Varnish, *
GREEN osl:
Duck Egg Green (Vallejo Air), *
Pallid Wych Flesh (Games Workshop), flbr
Light Livery Green (Vallejo Air), *
Off White (Vallejo), l&p
Light Livery Green (Vallejo Air), bl
–Vallejo Poliurethane Matt Varnish, *
BASES:
Mix Ghost Green (Vallejo) 1:1 Ghost Green (Vallejo a),
Mix Ghost Green (Vallejo) 1:1 Ghost Green (Vallejo a),
Green Stuff World Splash Gel Water Effect Light Green Water,
AK Interactive Atlantic Blue Texture,
AK Interactive Pacific Blue Texture,
AK Interactive Water Foam Texture,
l&p – lines and points,
p – points,
bl – blend,
gl – glaze,
drbr – drybrush,
flbr – flatbrush,
stpl – stippling,
*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)
I hope you find this tutorial interesting. Be sure to let me know your thoughts in the comments below, or at Facebook or Instagram. I would also appreciate it if you considered sharing this content with your friends, who might find it useful. Finally if you are looking for a professional miniatures painting service, be sure to contact me with this contact form. I always reply within 24 hours, after which please check out your spam folder.
Welcome to Painting Trench Crusade New Antioch tutorial. Here I will present to you a Step-by-step of an easy and fast painting process for the Principality of New Antioch skin, a simplified version of what can be seen in Gallery: New Antioch.
Before we start, some notes:
Previous steps: Armor
Although metal elements can be painted separately I strongly recommend following part one of the article before moving to this color. All previous Trench Crusade content can be found at: GAMING/TRENCH CRUSADE.
Step one: Base Color
I have painted the initial layer with Vallejo Game Color – Tan (72.066). This is a rather thick paint, that I like to thin down before application.
Step two: Highlight
Next, I applied a large area flatbrush highlight of Vallejo Game Color – Anthea Skin (72.107). Another thick paint, but this time I used it right out of the bottle in order to increase coverage and build layer volume.
Step three: Highlight
I then applied a more contained highlight of Vallejo Game Color – Skin Tone (72.099), switching between edge highlight and flatbrush.
Step four: Wash
Similarly to previous painting tutorials, I applied a lot of The Army Painter – Strong Tone Wash. I actually used an airbrush for this, covering the entire miniature, but it might as well be done manually.
Step five: Final Highlight
Finally I applied strong highlight by stippling Skin Tone (72.099) onto the sharp edges, muscle groups and knuckles, making the color pop.
I hope you find this article interesting. Be sure to let me know your thoughts in the comments below, or at Facebook or Instagram. I would also appreciate it if you considered sharing this content with your friends, who might find it useful. Finally if you are looking for a professional miniatures painting service, be sure to contact me with this contact form. I always reply within 24 hours, after which please check out your spam folder.
Welcome to Painting Trench Crusade New Antioch tutorial. Here I will present to you a Step-by-step of an easy and fast painting process for the Principality of New Antioch metal as can be seen in Gallery: New Antioch.
Before we start, some notes:
Previous steps: Armor
Although metal elements can be painted separately I strongly recommend following part one of the article before moving to this color. All previous Trench Crusade content can be found at: GAMING/TRENCH CRUSADE.
Step one: Base Color
I have painted the initial layer with Vallejo Game Color – Tinny Tin (72.060). This relatively thin color is easy to move into any recesses, but also maintains a strong coverage. Can be thinned down ever so slightly if needed.
Step two: Highlight
Next, I applied a large area flatbrush highlight of Vallejo Game Color – Chainmail (72.053). A much brighter steel color with strong pigmentation that covered most of the surface, except recesses. I deliberately used flatbrushing rather than drybrushing, to build volume and prepare the surface for incoming washes.
Step three: Highlight
I then applied a more contained highlight of Vallejo Game Color – Silver (72.052), switching between edge highlight and flatbrush.
Step four: Wash
Next I applied a lot of The Army Painter – Strong Tone Wash. I like to go hard on washes, applying lots and lots of them to allow for pigmentation to do its thing. I actually used an airbrush for this, covering the entire miniature, but it might as well be done manually.
Step five: Final Highlight
Finally I applied soft highlight by stippling semi-moist Vallejo Game Color – Silver (72.052) onto the sharp edges and most exposed areas of metal. This might work especially good for tiny detail such as chainmail, but also large areas that lack color diversity.
I hope you find this article interesting. Be sure to let me know your thoughts in the comments below, or at Facebook or Instagram. I would also appreciate it if you considered sharing this content with your friends, who might find it useful. Finally if you are looking for a professional miniatures painting service, be sure to contact me with this contact form. I always reply within 24 hours, after which please check out your spam folder.
I’ve been having a blast playing on the Silesian Trenchline scenery set for the last two weeks. Spoiler Alert: The set has been completed for quite some time now. That out of the way, let’s rewind a bit and get right back to where I left in the Silesian Trenchline part two article. That would be the undercoat…
In order to save time I prefer to get everything built first, then apply undercoat wholesale. This is where two 2×4′ folding tables and a set of thin HDF trays tends to come in handy. I go one tray / large piece at a time, spraying black undercoat where it’s required. I then set the tray on one of the tables and get another one. Once out of free space, I stack the trays on top of the previous layer, using small plastic cups as supports with a minimal point of contact. Fifteen minutes later everything’s nicely black.
For the painting process I went with a trusted, simple color scheme. The goal of which was to produce effective results while being easy to repeat across the entire set or to return to with any new scenery additions in the future (Such as the Antenna Cross added later on).
The core list of paints and a video tutorial following each step of the painting process can be found at Tutorial: Painting Trench Crusade Antenna Cross.
Easy to say the painting process was much faster than the building and modeling part. One to two hours of airbrushing followed by a few more hours spent on detailing. Finally a break after applying the AK Interactive Dark Earth texture on top of each piece, to come back another day and finish with a round of drybrush, apply varnish, add a few dozen Gamers Grass Brown 2mm tufts and call it done.
Although the Silesian Trenchline was complete and I had a few games on the set, the inspirational release never came. A few days later I still felt hunger for more Trench Crusade scenery for my tiny dudesmen to explore. The set felt complete and was pretty playable, but upon giving it more thought I figured to double down on some fancy centerpieces – or at least fancier than the ones I already had…
First, I added the probably most iconic Trench Crusade scenery piece – the Antenna Cross. I used a widely available STL with a few tweaks to increase playability and set the piece within my existing scenery set visual cues. A large wooden step around the base of the cross with a small sniper’s nest mid way up the cross and some Sandbags here and there made it work. I felt sated for the day…
The very next day, I had to come back to the project for another round. Got super inspired with a set of DIY objective markers seen at a local Discord – just had to make a set of my own. Nothing special, just a mix of resized 3d printed weapons, crates, ammunition and candles. I threw in a Meshmixered statue of Saint Karen – Patron of Supplies Acquisition, for a strongly themed secondary centerpiece.
Done in two hours, with a bit more work put into making the objective markers pop on the gaming board, finally put my scenery hunger to rest. For now…
This is it. The Silesian Trenchline is now ‘fully’ completed, ready to be fed the blood of plastic fighters. Will it ever get expanded? Maybe, but I already moved on to more projects, including half a dozen commissioned lightweight Trench Crusade scenery sets. I also feel like putting a lot more games in, before deciding what scenery might improve the playability on the Silesian Trenchline. If you have any fun ideas – be sure to drop them in the comments below. Until then – keep your helmets on!
hope you find this article interesting. Be sure to let me know your thoughts in the comments below, or at Facebook or Instagram. I would also appreciate it if you considered sharing this content with your friends, who might find it useful. Finally if you are looking for a professional miniatures painting service, be sure to contact me with this contact form. I always reply within 24 hours, after which please check out your spam folder.
Welcome to Painting Trench Crusade New Antioch tutorial. Here I will present to you a Step-by-step of an easy and fast painting process for the Principality of New Antioch armor as can be seen in Gallery: New Antioch.
Before we start, some notes:
Step one: Undercoat
I started with a thorough layer of Games Workshop Chaos Black spray. This is a standard procedure for me. Chaos Black spray is my go to choice when it comes to undercoat, providing a thin, but durable layer of undercoat.
Step two: Undertone
For the initial layer I used Vallejo Model Air – Panzer Dark Grey (71.056) and airbrushed it all around the miniature. This color will be mostly covered later on, but will help build the volume and set the tone.
Step three: Zenithal Base Color
Next I applied Vallejo Game Air – Grey RLM02 (71.044) via airbrush. I focused on the exposed elements of armor (and cloths for other miniatures), but also stones and planks on the base. Although mostly zenithal, this layer was also applied to vertical surfaces, such as the shield, kneepads, chest etc. I took care to build gradient on such surfaces.
Step four: Highlight
I switched to regular brush, mixed Vallejo Game Air – Grey RLM02 (71.044) with Games Workshop Flayed One Flesh at a 2:1 ratio, then applied a highlight using the Flatbrush technique, focusing on the most exposed areas. This one is crucial and mastering ‘Flatbrush’ can be a fantastic tool to speed up miniatures painting. I also applied a few standard highlights on the edges.
I then adjusted the ration to 1:1 and made another round, less spread.
Step five: Highlight
With Games Workshop Flayed One Flesh I applied another layer. Apart from regular highlights I also stippled exposed areas with the belly of the brush. Not too strong, just to build some volume and leave marks similar to scratches.
Step six: Wash
Here’s where the magic happened. I airbrushed The Army Painter Strong Tone all over the miniature (including different colors built up to this point, but that is a topic for another article to topple.). This can be done manually, but I like the way airbrushed washed behave with less stains and a bit less contrast in the recesses.
Step seven: Final Highlight
I went back to Games Workshop Flayed One Flesh and highlighted the miniature, adding a few well placed spots in the centers and on the edges. This added a strong contrast and changed the way the main color is being interpreted by the eye.
Voila – job complete!
For more Trench Crusade tutorials visit my TUTORIALS REPOSITORY. I add free content regularly, mostly around the games I’m hyped about or projects I work on. Who knows – maybe the Trench Crusade will get it’s own tab in the future. Until then – stay tuned for more Trench Crusade content.
I hope you find this article interesting. Be sure to let me know your thoughts in the comments below, or at Facebook or Instagram. I would also appreciate it if you considered sharing this content with your friends, who might find it useful. Finally if you are looking for a professional miniatures painting service, be sure to contact me with this contact form. I always reply within 24 hours, after which please check out your spam folder.
Welcome to the Trench Bases tutorial. Here I will take you on a Step-by-step trip through the process of creating the Trench Bases the same way as seen at: Gallery: Trench Crusade New Antioch.
Before we start, some notes:
For this tutorial I will be using:
Step one: Trench Floor
I started by breaking wooden coffee stirring sticks into small pieces, then gluing them on top of the bases about 1 mm apart from one another to leave some space to be filled with texture paste during the end stages. I then cut the excess of the sticks and filed it down with a sandpaper stick to match the base’s edge.
Step two: Rubble
Next I put small piles of gravel on the bases and poured thin super glue on top of them and in-between the ‘planks’. I then sealed it with short bursts of aerosol super glue activator. This created an irregular texture made of partially evaporated glue.
Step three: Charred Vegetation
I then broke a thin branch of dried out grape into small pieces and glued one piece on each of the larger bases.
Tip: I highly recommend sealing each piece with thin super glue for extra durability.
Step four [optional]: Barbed Wire
In order to make barbed wire I combined a curved screw and a screwdriver. I then rolled the twisted wire around a brush handle to form a proper shape. This was then cut into smaller pieces and glued on top of the bases.
Side note: For the New Antioch warband I used a ready to use product, but decided to include this DIY wire version in the basing tutorial. It’s not perfect, but it does the job and is much cheaper.
Step one: Base shading
With the modeling part complete I moved to the painting process. After applying black undercoat I airbrushed Vallejo 71.056 Panzer Dark Grey all over the bases. I then followed with Vallejo 71.044 Grey RLM02 airbrushed on top of rubble and branches.
Step two: Wood & drybrush
Next I covered planks and branches with The Army Painter Grim Black Speedpaint and left it to dry. Afterwards I drybrushed Vallejo 72.046 Ghost Grey all over the bases.
Step three: Barbed Wire base
I started the barbed wire with a layer of Vallejo 72.060 Tinny Tin.
Step four: Wash
I have covered everything with The Army Painter Strong Tone wash – Baron Harkonnen style (almost).
Step five: Barbed Wire
Once Wash dried out and done its job, I have applied a layer of Vallejo 72.609 Rust FX* to random spots on the barbed wire. I then flatbrushed a bit of Vallejo 72.052 Silver* on top and followed up with Vallejo 72.610 Galvanic Corrosion FX, again applied to random spots.
Side Note: *Vallejo Rust and Vallejo Silver are both optional. Looking back I do think I’ve unnecessarily overdone the barbed wire.
Step Six: Highlight
Next I added a bit of contrast by highlighting the sharp edges of the gravel piles, edges of the planks and a few spots on the branches with the Games Workshop Flayed One Flesh.
Step seven: Earth texture
Moving forward I applied a thick layer of AK Interactive Dark Earth texture prioritizing flat base surface, small space between the planks and some areas on top of gravel, to better set all these elements in the scene. The texture was then drybrushed softly with Games Workshop Karak Stone.
Finally I applied a few Gamers Grass Brown 2mm tufts here and there, thus finalizing the visual feel of the base.
I hope you find this review interesting. Be sure to let me know your thoughts in the comments below, or at Facebook or Instagram. I would also appreciate it if you considered sharing this content with your friends, who might find it useful. Finally if you are looking for a professional miniatures painting service, be sure to contact me with this contact form. I always reply within 24 hours, after which please check out your spam folder.
Here are some Colour Recipes for Horus Heresy Mechanicum from Gallery: Salamanders. Please take note that this is a simple colour scheme, not covering multiple overlapping layers and blends in between, that lead to the final product. It is supposed to be used as guideline not a step-by-step.
GREEN armor:
Dark Green (Val a), *
Sick Green (Val a), *
Duck Egg Green (Val a), *
Light Livery Green (Val a), * bl
Green Tone (AP), * bl
BLACK shoulder guards:
Panzer Dark Grey (Val a),
Strong Tone (AP), wash
Ghost Grey (Val), flbr [on detail such as logo]
Dark Tone (AP), wash
BLACK vehicle plate:
Pancer Dark Grey (Val a), *
Cold Grey (Val a), *
Black Wash for Vehicles (Val), *
Weathering:
Charred Brown (Val a), *
Fire:
White (Val a), * stencil
Golden Yellow (Val a), *
Hot Orange (Val a), *
Red Tone (AP), * underline
Gold:
Rust (Val a),
Greedy Gold (AP), flbr
Strong Tone (AP), wash
Metal:
Rust (AP a),
Gun Metal (AP), flbr
Shining Metal (AP), flbr
Strong Tone Ink (AP),
Bases:
Dark Earth (AK Interactive), texture
Wasteland Tufts (The Army Painter)
l&p – lines and points,
p – points,
bl – blend,
gl – glaze,
drbr – drybrush,
flbr – flatbrush,
stpl – stippling,
*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)
I hope you find this tutorial interesting. Be sure to let me know your thoughts in the comments below, or at Facebook or Instagram. I would also appreciate it if you considered sharing this content with your friends, who might find it useful. Finally if you are looking for a professional miniatures painting service, be sure to contact me with this contact form. I always reply within 24 hours, after which please check out your spam folder.
Here are some Color Recipes for the Combined Army. Please take note that this is a simple color scheme, not covering multiple overlapping layers and blends in between, that lead to the final product. It is supposed to be used as guideline not a step-by-step.
BLACK/GREY armour & weapons:
Black Undercoat,
Panzer Dark Grey (Val),*
Fenrisian Grey (GW), l&p
Pallid Wych Flesh (GW), l&p
Dark Tone Ink (AP),
Pallid Wych Flesh (GW), l&p
ORANGE fibers:
Mix: Hot Orange (Val) 1:1 Heavy Orange (Val)
Heavy Orange (Val), flbr, l&p
Mix: Strong+Soft 6:3:1 Bloodletter (GW), Medium, wash
Skin Tone (val), l
Hot Orange (val a), bl
Skin Tone (val), p
BROWN:
Satchel Brown (AP), bl
Khaki (AP), l&p
PURPLE blades:
Warlord Purple (Val a), bl
Squid Pink (Val), l&p
Warlord Purple (Val a), bl
Off White (Val), l&p
SKIN:
Tan (Val),
Anthea Skin (Val), flbr
Skin Tone (Val), l&p
Mix Purple Tone Ink (AP) 2:1:1 Strong Tone Ink (AP), Medium, wash
Skin Tone (Val), l&p
BASES:
Bloody Land (AK Interactive), texture
Heavy Orange (Val), drbr
Alien Fire Tufts (Gamers Grass),
l&p – lines and points,
p – points,
bl – blend,
gl – glaze,
drbr – drybrush,
flbr – flatbrush,
stpl – stippling,
*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)
I hope you find this tutorial interesting. Be sure to let me know your thoughts in the comments below, or at Facebook or Instagram. I would also appreciate it if you considered sharing this content with your friends, who might find it useful. Finally if you are looking for a professional miniatures painting service, be sure to contact me with this contact form. I always reply within 24 hours, after which please check out your spam folder.
Welcome to Painting Warhammer 40,000 Crimson Fists tutorial. Here I will present to you a Step-by-step of an easy and fast painting process for Games Workshop Crimson Fists Primaris Marines metal as can be seen in Gallery: Crimson Fists.
Before we start, some notes:
Previous steps: Blue Armor
Although metal elements can be painted separately I strongly recommend following part one of the article before moving to this color. Visit Tutorial: Painting Warhammer 40,000 Crimson Fists part one Blue Armor for more information.
Step one: Base Color
The initial layer was painted manually (no airbrush) with Vallejo Game Color – Tinny Tin (72.060). The color is relatively thin making it easy to move into any recesses, but also maintains a strong coverage, which is good because covering the entire surface is imperative for this particular layer.
Step two: Highlight
Next I manually applied a large area (flatbrush) highlight of Vallejo Game Color – Chainmail (72.053). A much brighter steel color with strong pigmentation to cover most of the surface, except recesses.
Step three: Highlight
I then applied a more contained highlight of Vallejo Game Color – Silver (72.052), switching between edge highlight and flatbrush.
Step four: Wash
Lastly I applied a lot of The Army Painter – Strong Tone Wash. I like to go hard on washes, applying lots and lots of them to allow for pigmentation to do its thing.
Extra Step: Final Highlight
Depending on the level of paint job I sometimes apply a final, soft highlight of Vallejo Game Color – Silver (72.052). This might work especially good for tiny detail such as chains, Imperial Aquila and similar, making steel look crisp and sharp. Unfortunately I skipped this part for the Eradicators so you’d have to take my word for how it works, or see other Crimson Fists miniatures for reference.
I hope you’ve enjoyed this article. Be sure to let me know your thoughts in the comments below or via Facebook or Instagram. I would also appreciate it if you considered sharing this content with your friends, who might find it interesting. Finally if you are looking for a professional miniatures painting service, be sure to contact me with this contact form. I always reply within 24 hours, after which please check out your spam folder.
Welcome to Painting Warhammer 40,000 Crimson Fists tutorial. Here I will present to you a Step-by-step of an easy and fast painting process for Games Workshop Crimson Fists Primaris Marines red as can be seen in Gallery: Crimson Fists.
Before we start, some notes:
Previous steps: Blue Armor
Although red elements can be painted separately I strongly recommend following part one of the article before moving to this color. Visit Tutorial: Painting Warhammer 40,000 Crimson Fists part one Blue Armor for more information.
Step one: Base Color
The initial layer was painted manually (no airbrush) with Vallejo Model – Hull Red (70.985). The color is thick resulting in strong coverage. I deliberately avoided going back to places where the undercoat might be visible, not to build too much paint in the area. Other layers will take care of that.
Step two: Highlight
Next I manually applied a large area highlight of Vallejo Burnt Red (70.814). A bit brighter and slightly pastele, the color has a relatively good coverage. I focused on covering all edges and exposed areas, less on recesses and inner folds.
Step three: Texture Highlight
I then applied a mix-method layer of Vallejo Flat Red (70.957)*, switching between edge highlight and stippling. This added much needed texture and vibrancy.
* Warning: I am convinced my Vallejo Flat Red is bugged. I have purchased a number of bottles and the one used for my Crimson Fists is clearly mixed up. There sadly is no comparable color in the entire Vallejo range that I am aware of (and I got each Red they make to test it). I recommend choosing any strong, vibrant, well pigmented red for this step instead.
Step four: Final Highlight
In the last step I added a limited highlight of Citadel Lugganath Orange. The paint is thick and I used it without thinning. Just a few lines on the edges, a few irregular dots in certain areas. Not to much, not to change the expression of the overall color.
That wraps up red. Four layers of paint to imitate eye catching, vibrant tone. Two most important colors out of the way, the rest is a topic for another day. Stay tuned for part three of the tutorial.
I hope you’ve enjoyed this article. Be sure to let me know your thoughts in the comments below or via Facebook or Instagram. I would also appreciate it if you considered sharing this content with your friends, who might find it interesting. Finally if you are looking for a professional miniatures painting service, be sure to contact me with this contact form. I always reply within 24 hours, after which please check out your spam folder.
