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Tag Archives: Painting

Tutorial: Painting Warhammer 40,000 Crimson Fists part one Blue Armor

Welcome to Painting Warhammer 40,000 Crimson Fists tutorial. Here I will present to you a Step-by-step of an easy and fast painting process for Games Workshop Crimson Fists Primaris Marines armor as can be seen in Gallery: Crimson Fists.

Before we start, some notes:

  • This tutorial require airbrush.
  • You can use any paints, not just the ones I recommend. You can use this chart to compare paints between popular brands.
  • Please note pictures present a huge miniature under strong light that might result in a feel of messy and clumsy paint job.
  • As usual, please take note that what works for me might not necessarily work for you.

Step one: Undercoat

I started with a thorough layer of Games Workshop Chaos Black spray. This is a standard procedure for me. Chaos Black spray is my go to choice when it comes to undercoat.

Step two: Base Color

For the initial layer I chose Vallejo Model Air – French Blue (71.088). The color is a somewhere medium tone blue, with much vibrancy that got a bit toned down by black undercoat beneath. I applied a thin, dry layer of French Blue by airbrushing it on top and around the miniature. I took extra care not to make the layer too strong.

Step three: Highlight

Next I applied a mix of Vallejo Game Air – Ultramarine Blue (72.722) proportioned 5:2 with Vallejo Model Air – Light Sea Blue (71.089). This layer was also airbrushed, but this time I applied it zenithally and on the most exposed areas of the armor. Once again I took extra care to keep the layer dry and soft.

Step four: Shading

I then applied Vallejo Wash for Dark Vehicles (76.518) by airbrushing it from the bottom of the miniature (reverse zenithal) and onto low parts of large areas, including lower shoulder guards, sides of leg armor and lower part of the backpack. This particular paint is very thin, forcing me to apply it by multiple tiny, mist-like “puffs”, that dried out almost instantly. It significantly toned down all the armor and blended any dry specks leftovers from previous layers.

Step five: First Highlight

Next I switched to manual brush and applied an edge highlight of Citadel Layer – Hoeth Blue. I picked only the most exposed edges, skipping all places that were too difficult to reach or hidden from sight.

Step Six: Second Highlight

Finally I applied an edge highlight with Vallejo Game Color – Glacier Blue (72.095). Contrary to previous layer, I kept this one concentrated on top areas and corners, adding extra focus and depth to the exposed armor detail.


That wraps up the armor. Only five layers of paint for an eye catching effect of dark blue armor, that stands out on the gaming board. Now with this solid base out of the way, we can start building character of the miniatures, by adding more colors and enriching the overall feel of the miniatures – but that is a topic for another day. Stay tuned for part two of the tutorial. 

I hope you find this tutorial interesting. Be sure to let me know your thoughts in the comments below or via Facebook or Instagram. I would also appreciate if you considered sharing this content with your friends, who might find it useful. Finally if you are looking for a professional warhammer 40k miniatures painting service, be sure to contact me with this contact form. I always reply within 24 hours, after which please check out your spam folder.

Scarhandpainting

Colour Recipes: Warhammer 40,000 Crimson Fists

Here are some Colour Recipes for Warhammer 40,000 Crimson Fists from Gallery: Crimson Fists. Please take note that this is a simple colour scheme, not covering multiple overlapping layers and blends in between, that lead to the final product. It is supposed to be used as guideline not a step-by-step.

BLUE armor:

Black undercoat,

French Blue (val a), * around

Mix Ultramarine Blue (val a) 5:2 Light Sea Blue (Val a), * from top, points focused

Black Wash for Vehicles (val), * from bottom, points focused

Hoeth Blue (gw), l&p

Glacier Blue (val), p


RED armor:

Hull Red (val),

Burnt Red (val)

Flat Red (val), l&p, highlight flbr (x3)

Lugganath Orange (gw), l&p

Vehicles: Flat Red (val), stpl (large areas)

DARK mesh:

Panzer Dark Grey (val a),

Fenrisian Grey (gw), l&p

Dark Tone Ink (ap),

Glacier Blue (val), l&p / Ghost Grey for vehicles)


METAL:

Warplock Bronze (gw),

True Copper (ap) / Gun Metal (ap), flbr

Shining Metal (ap), l&p

Strong Tone Ink (ap),

Shining Metal (ap), l&p


BROWN detail:

Burnt Umber (val a),

Karak Stone (gw) l, detail filling,

Off White (val), l&p

Dark Olive Drab (val a), bl

Flayed One Flesh (gw), l&p

Mix: Strong Tone Ink (ap) 1:1:1 Soft Tone Ink (ap), Flesh Tone Ink (ap),

Flayed One Flesh (gw), l&p

SKULLS & PAPER:

Karak Stone (gw),

Flayed One Flesh (gw), flbr

Mix: Off White (val) 1:2 Skeleton Bone (ap), flbr

Strong Tone Ink

Off White (val), l&p


ORANGE OSL:

White (val a), *

Hot Orange (val a), *

Off White (val), l&p

Hot Orange (val a), bl


EYES:

Flat Red (val),

Lugganath Orange (gw), dots

Hot Orange (val a), glaze

l&p – lines and points,

p – points,

dl – deep lining,

bl – blend,

gl – glaze,

drbr – drybrush,

flbr – flatbrush,

lobr – loaded brush,

stpl – stippling,

*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)

Scarhandpainting

Colour Recipes: Infinity O-12

Here are some Colour Recipes for Infinity O-12 from Gallery: Infinity O-12. Please take note that this is a simple colour scheme, not covering multiple overlapping layers and blends in between, that lead to the final product. It is supposed to be used as guideline not a step-by-step.

BLACK armor:

Chaos Black, undercoat

Pancer Dark Grey (Val a), *

Fenrisian Grey (GW), flbr

Pale Wych Flesh (GW), flbr, l&p

Dark Tone Ink (AP), wash

Pale Wych Flesh (GW), l&p


WHITE armor:

Mix Ghost Grey (Val) 1:1 Wolf Grey (Val a),

Mix Ghost Grey (Val) 1:1 Wolf Grey (Val a),

White (Val a), bl

Off White (Val), bl, l&p

BROWN clothes:

Black Armor base,

Dark Brown (Val A), bl

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP), wash

Karak Stone (GW), l&p


BLUE elements:

French Blue (val a),

Ultramarine Blue (val a), l

Heth Blue (gw), l&p

Glacier Blue (val), l&p


VISIERS:
Emerald (Val),

Mix Emerald (Val) x:x Off White (Val), l&p


TURQUOISE helmet dots,
Coelia Greenshade (GW),

BASES:

Coal Black (P3), *

Turquoise (Val), *

Turquoise (Val), l

Pale Wych Flesh (GW), l

Duck Egg Green (Val a), OSL

Light Livery Green (Val a), OSL

Off White (Val), l

l&p – lines and points,

p – points,

dl – deep lining,

bl – blend,

gl – glaze,

drbr – drybrush,

fltbr – flatbrush,

lobr – loaded brush,

stpl – stippling,

*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)

Scarhandpainting

Colour Recipes: Warhammer 40,000 Genestealer Cult

Here are some Colour Recipes for Infinity Haqqislam from GALLERY: GENESTEALER CULTS. Please take note that this is a simple colour scheme, not covering multiple overlapping layers and blends in between, that lead to the final product. It is supposed to be used as guideline not a step-by-step.

BLUE armor:

Black Undercoat,

Imperial Blue (val),*

Mix: Imperial Blue (val) 4:1 Electric Blue (val),*

Electric Blue (val),*

Mix: Electric Blue (val) 1:3 White,*

Blue Tone Ink (ap),

Pallid Wych Flesh (gw), l&p

Off White (val), l&p


METAL:

Warplock Bronze (gw),

Gun Metal (ap), / True Copper (ap), flbr

Shining Silver (ap), l&p

Mix: Strong Tone Ink (ap) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (ap),

Streaking Grime (ak int),

PURPLE skin:

Black Undercoat,

Alien Purple (val),

Mix: Alien Purple (val) 2:1 Squid Pink (val), flbr

Mix: Alien Purple (val) 1:1:1 Squid Pink (val), Pale Flesh (val), flbr

Purple Tone Ink (ap),

Pallid Wych Flesh (gw), l&p

Off White (val), l&p


SKIN:

Alien Purple (val a),

Dwarf Skin (val a), flbr

Flesh (val a), flbr

Mix: Purple Tone Ink (ap) 1:1:1:1, Strong Tone Ink (ap), Soft Tone Ink (ap), Medium,

BLACK/GREY outfits:

Black Undercoat,

Panzer Dark Grey (val),

Cold Grey (val), flbr

Fenrisian Grey (gw), flbr

Pallid Wych Flesh (gw), l&p

Mix Strong Tone Ink (ap) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (ap),

Pallid Wych Flesh (GW), l&p

Off White (Val), l&p


BROWN clothes:

Grey Outfits base,

Dark Brown RLM61 (val), bl

Mix Strong Tone Ink (ap) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (ap),

Karak Stone (gw), l&p

Flayed One Flesh (gw), l&p


GREEN light:

Duck Egg Green (val a),

Off White (val), l&p

Light Livery Green (val a),*

Waywatcher Green (gw), wash

Off White (val), l&p

l&p – lines and points,

p – points,

dl – deep lining,

bl – blend,

gl – glaze,

drbr – drybrush,

fltbr – flatbrush,

lobr – loaded brush,

stpl – stippling,

*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)

Scarhandpainting

Tutorial: Painting Five Layers Technique Metal

Welcome to Painting Five Layers Technique – Metal tutorial. Here I will present to you a Step-by-step of an easy and fast painting process for metal, that I myself use in most of my projects.

Before we start, some notes:

  • Five Layers Technique is a self developed, easy to learn, simple and rewarding technique I myself use on regular basis. It is a great way to prepare groundwork for a particular color, or as an end result on a large scale project. To learn more about the technique visit: Tutorial: Five Layers Technique
  • This tutorial does not require airbrush.
  • You can use any paints, not just the ones I recommend. You can use this chart to compare paints between different brands.
  • Please note pictures present a huge miniature under strong light that might result in a feel of messy and clumsy paint job.
  • For the purpose of this tutorial I used Games Workshop Stormcast Eternal free sample miniature.
  • As usual, please take note that what works for me might not necessarily work for you.

Prep: Undercoat

I started with a thorough layer of Games Workshop Chaos Black spray.

Step one: Base layer

I then applied first layer (base) with GW Warplock Bronze. Thinning the paint down a notch might help leading the paint to recesses and speed up the process. 

Step two: Bronze Highlight

Next, with a side of a large brush tip, I applied a layer of Army Painter True Copper. The movement and technique behind this layer was similar to flatbrushing. The key was to leave some of the previous layer visible in recesses, all the while applying new color to everything beyond. 

Step two alt: Metal Highlight

I did the same for weapon, except I switched to Army Painter Gun Metal, instead of True Copper. 

Step three: Edge highlight

Next I edge highlighted all areas with Army Painter Shining Silver. This one does not have to be precise and might get a bit messy. Any additional scratches or lines painted on the armor will benefit the final result. 

Step four: Wash

The Army Painter Strong Tone was next. I applied a rich layer of wash all over the miniature.
NOTE: I recommend applying and highlighting any colors compatible with Strong Tone before commencing this step. Proper layer planning is key to achieving fast painting time. For this tutorial I left the rest of the miniature as is. 

Step five: Highlight

Finally I edge highlighted with Army Painter Shining Silver. I also painted few additional scratches and lines to add diversity to some areas. 

Job complete. It is just that simple. Now you have a nice base to add depth and additional detail with color washes/glazes, or you can just leave it as is, if you prefer. Below are some examples of Metal painted with Five Layers Technique. 


I hope you find this tutorial interesting. Be sure to let me know your thoughts in the comments below or via Facebook or Instagram. I would also appreciate if you considered sharing this content with your friends, who might find it useful. Finally if you are looking for a professional miniatures painting service be sure to contact me with this contact form. I always reply within 24 hours, after which please check out your spam folder.

Scarhandpainting

Tutorial: Resurrecting Games Workshop Glazes

Being a commission painter, or even just a casual hobbyist, might see you grow attached to a certain line of paints. What if suddenly these paints become out of production? Having to change one’s painting habits is rough. Being left in a middle of a project, without means to continue seems even worse!

I’ve been hobbying for over twenty years now. Easy to say I have seen my share of paints going OOP. Been on a receiving end of such blows far too many times. The most recent and by far most painful was Games Workshop’s removal of the amazing Glaze series. Using these as Washes, Glazes and even Mix ingredients I grew to love them. No amount of Contrast paints will fill the void, as these are a thing of their own with different qualities and behavior.

And thus after burning (or rather flowing) though my stash of GW Glazes I started searching for a stable source of substitute. I experimented with Army Painter, Privateer Press, Games Workshop and more. In the end salvation came from Vallejo. It turned out their Game Inks are already pretty close to old GW Glazes. Few tweaks saw these pretty much spot on. See for yourself.


Lamenters Yellow

Recipe:

Vallejo Game Ing 72.085 Yellow 1 drop

Water 2 drops


Bloodletter:

Recipe:

Vallejo Game Ink 72.086 Red 4 drops

Vallejo Game Ing 72.085 Yellow 1 drop

Water 10 drops


Waywatcher Green

Recipe:

Vallejo Game Ink 72.089 Green 3 drops

Vallejo Game Ing 72.085 Yellow 2 drops

Water 10 drops


Guilliman Blue

Recipe:

Vallejo Game Ink 72.088 Blue 1 drop

Water 2 drops

There you have it. I hope this will help you refill your own bottles of old GW Glazes.

If you like the article, consider sharing it with someone who likes hobbying around with miniatures. Find me on Facebook and Instagram. Most importantly have a great hobby time!

Scarhandpainting

Colour Recipes: Horus Heresy Mechanicum Zhao Arkhad

Here are some Colour Recipes for Horus Heresy Mechanicum from Gallery: Forge World Zhao Arkhad. Please take note that this is a simple colour scheme, not covering multiple overlapping layers and blends in between, that lead to the final product. It is supposed to be used as guideline not a step-by-step.

BRONZE armor:

Black Undercoat,

Mix Rust (val a) 1:1 Metallic Black (val a), *

Bright Bronze (val a), * zenithal

Shining Silver (ap), flbr

Strong Tone Ink (ap), wash / *

Shining Silver (ap), l&p

Soft Tone Ink (ap), wash dedicated

… GREEN metallic:

Jade Green (val), bl

TURQUOISE clothes:

Coal Black (p3),

Strong Tone Ink (ap), wash

Coal Black (p3),

Mix Coal Black (p3) 1:1 Turquoise (val), flbr

Mix Coal Black (p3) 1:2 Turquoise (val), bl

Turquoise (val), l&p

Ice Yellow (val), bottom drbr


SKIN:

Slaanesh Grey (gw),

Flesh (val a), flbr

Pale Flesh (val), l&p

Strong Tone Ink (ap), wash

Pale Flesh (val), l&p

BONES:

Flayed One Flesh (gw),

Ivory (val), flbr

Strong Tone Ink (ap), wash

Skeleton Bone (ap), l&p

Off White (val), l&p


GREEN osl:

Duck Egg Green (val a), *

Light Livery Green (val a), *

Off White (val), l*p

Waywatcher Green (gw), bl

DESERT bases:

Desert Sand (val texture), texture

Khaki (val a), * stones

Ice Yellow (val), drbr

Tufts:
Wasteland Tuft (ap),
Steppe Tuft 12mm (Paint Forge),
Steppe Tuft 6mm (Paint Forge),

l&p – lines and points,

p – points,

dl – deep lining,

bl – blend,

gl – glaze,

drbr – drybrush,

fltbr – flatbrush,

lobr – loaded brush,

stpl – stippling,

*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)

Scarhandpainting

Tutorial: Painting KoW Armada Empire of Dust Monolith

Welcome to Painting Empire of Dust Monolith tutorial. Here I will present to you a Step-by-step of an easy and fast painting process for Mantic Games Empire of Dust Monolith as can be seen in Gallery: Armada Empire of Dust.

Before we start, some notes:

  • This tutorial require airbrush.
  • You can use any paints, not just the ones I recommend. You can use this chart to compare paints between different brands.
  • Please note pictures present a huge miniature under strong light that might result in a feel of messy and clumsy paint job.
  • As usual, please take note that what works for me might not necessarily work for you.

Step one: Undercoat

I started with a thorough layer of Games Workshop Chaos Black spray.

Step two: Deck

I airbrushed Vallejo Khaki (air) over main deck and all top structures. I then flatbrushed GW Flayed One Flesh on top of Khaki layer. 

Step three: Broadside

I airbrushed Vallejo Panzer Dark Grey (air), followed by a layer of Vallejo Cold Grey (air). 

Step four: Gold

I then painted front and side ornaments, plus some additional detail with GW Warplock Bronze, followed by a solid flatbrush of P3 Molten Bronze and a highlight of Army Painter Shining Metal.

Step five: Wash

I then applied a lot of wash mix of Army Painter Strong Tone Ink 1:1 Army Painter Soft Tone Ink.
(If you followed my other tutorials you know at this point that the mixture is one of my very best friends in all painting.)

Step six: Main highlights

Once wash was dry I drybrushed broadsides with Vallejo Medium Sea Grey and then with Vallejo Ghost Grey. (I forgot to take pics). I then flatbrushed deck and top structure elements with GW Flayed One Flesh and edge highlighted with Vallejo Off White.

Step seven: Blue

I added accents of blue by manually painting chosen elements with Vallejo Magic Blue (air). I then highlighted with Vallejo Electric Blue, followed with Vallejo Glacier Blue. Furthermore I applied a wash layer of GW Guilliman Blue (glaze). Finally I added points of focus and thin highlights with Vallejo Glacier Blue. 

Step Eight: Purple/Pink

I applied Vallejo Warlock Purple onto chosen areas, including top gem, piramid inner lines and catapult flames. I then applied couple successive highlights with different mixes of Vallejo Warlock Purple and Vallejo Off White. With few highlights made with pure Vallejo Off White I moved to glaze Army Painter Purple Tone Ink into few areas of choice. This was contained mostly to top gem and recesses in catapult flames (and around). 

Such prepared miniature I airbrushed with two coats of Vallejo Polyurethane Matt Varnish and mounted on a base, following Tutorial: KoW Armada Water Bases


I hope you find this tutorial interesting. Be sure to let me know your thoughts in the comments below or via Facebook or Instagram. I would also appreciate if you considered sharing this content with your friends, who might find it useful. Finally if you are looking for a professional miniatures painting service be sure to contact me with this contact form. I always reply within 24 hours, after which please check out your spam folder.

Scarhandpainting

Tutorial: Painting Post-apo Survivors part 1 Stalkers

Welcome to Painting Road to Survival Stalkers tutorial. Here I will present to you a Step-by-step of an easy and fast painting process for Orzol Studio’s Stalkers team from the Post-apo Survivors Kickstarter.

Before we start, some notes:

  • This tutorial require airbrush.
  • You can use any paints, not just the ones I recommend. You can use this chart to compare paints between different brands.
  • Please note pictures present a huge miniature under strong light that might result in a feel of messy and clumsy paint job.
  • Pictures names don’t match steps in this tutorial. This is because I re-used pictures made for an Instagram tutorial. Sorry if this causes confussion.
  • As usual, please take note that what works for me might not necessarily work for you.

Step one: Undercoat

I applied a strong layer of Citadel Chaos Black spray. I prefer spray over manual application, but this is just a personal preference. Any matt black undercoat will do, as long as it’s thorough.

Step two: Uniform 

I started by applying a strong layer of Vallejo Dark Green RLM71 (air) onto entire uniform. I used an airbrush for this, but it is not necessary. This layer might as well be applied manually, but might take few runs to look smooth and solid. Although boots, weapons and other detail got painted alongside the uniform, it’s not a problem. If you switch to manual painting you don’t have to worry about messing these up at this stage of paint job.

Next I airbrushed Vallejo Interior Green (air) over previous layer. Similarly to Dark Green this one can be done manually and follows same philosophy.

I switched to manual painting and with a basecoat size brush, flatbrushed a mix of Vallejo Interior Green (air) 1:1 Vallejo Heavy Khaki over the miniature. I then used a more precise brush and highlighted some edges with the same color mix.

Step three: Vest

With a solid color underneath a single layer of Vallejo Russian Green (air) was enough to provide a smooth base for the vest. The key was to avoid messing up all the bright uniform around. Because of that I outlined the vest with a precise brush and only then switched for a larger brush to gain speed.

Next I flatbrushed a mix of Vallejo Russian Green 1:1 Vallejo Olive Green over previous layer. This provided nice thickness, something the upcoming Wash will work good on.

Step four: Boots, Gloves, Mask

Using a small brush I applied a strong, precise layer of Vallejo Panzer Dark Grey (air) onto boots, mask, gloves, weapons and buckles.

I then switched to Vallejo Medium Sea Grey, thinned it down with medium and applied a somehow misty, irregular layer over Panzer Dark Grey, leaving spots of previous color visible. I deliberately left weapons and buckles be for the time being.

Step five: Brown wash

Using a large, soft brush I applied a lot of Games Workshop Agrax Earthshade onto entire miniature. After a while I used a clean precise brush to strip some of the paint from areas where too much pigmentation covered all the detail. I left the miniature to dry after that.

Step six: Weapons

I applied a partially translucent layer of thinned down Vallejo Wolf Grey (air) onto weapons and buckles. I moved a brush alongside blade and barrel, trying to leave pigmentation on the edges.

I then highlighted weapons with Games Workshop Pallid Wych Flesh. Mostly on the edges and with no dillution.

I then followed up by applying Army Painter Dark Tone Ink. Similar to Agrax, I let the paint flow then removed the excess and let the thing dry.

Finally I edge highlighted with Games Workshop Pallid Wych Flesh. This time around I included gas mask filter plus added few scratches here and there.

Step seven: Skin & Eyes

I started painting skin by applying a solid layer of slightly thinned down Vallejo Tan. This layer had to be precise and I avoided going out of line and messing up paintjob around it. I deliberately started painting skin before applying Agrax Earthshade Wash from previous tutorial so that any corrections could be done much easier, if required.

I then applied Games Workshop Dwarf Flesh onto previous layer. Same premise, except I left just a bit of Tan visible in the recesses.

Next I highlighted skin with Vallejo Flesh (air), which due to it’s consistency produces a partially translucent effect. I then re-applied Flesh on top of the head, cheeks and nose.

I followed up with Agrax Earthshade wash (done at Step five: Brown wash).

Finally I highlighted with Games Workshop Dwarf Flesh. I also blended some of the Dwarf Flesh over wash made stains on top of the head.

Painting eyes is a topic on it’s own and I’m not trying to write a book here, so I used a simple method of a single white line followed by a black dot in the middle. Any necessary corrections can be done to your heart’s content by painting over and over till good results are produced.

Step eight: Backpack & Holsters

I started with a strong layer of Vallejo Charred Brown (air), ensuring not to leave a mess on top of any previous layer around the backpack.

I then flatbrushed Vallejo Beasty Brown over Charred Brown. No thinning, just paint straight from a bottle and onto a palette before application.

I used Games Workshop Karak Stone for gritty highlights plus painted a blanket strapped at the bottom of the backpack.

I then switched to Vallejo Panzer Dark Grey (air) and re-painted all the buckles grey.

Agrax Earthshade wash followed (done at Step five: Brown wash).

Finally I applied a highlight of Games Workshop Karak Stone onto the edges and middle areas.

Step nine: Mask Visor

I tried to keep this one extra simple. Started with a gritty, messy layer of Games Workshop Pallid Wych Flesh. No need to be overly precise, nor smooth. The more irregular, diverse the visor looks now, the better the end result.

I then applied slightly thinned down Vallejo Hot Orange (air). Once dry I applied another layer of the same stuff. Done.

Step ten: Teddy Bear

This one is such a cool detail. I decided to go purple/pink to make it stand out. I started with a solid layer of Vallejo Royal Purple.

I then applied Games Workshop Agrax Earthshade wash (done at Step five: Brown wash).

Once wash dried, I highlighted most exposed areas of the bear with Vallejo Warlord Purple.

I then used Vallejo Squid Pink for final highlight, applying dots and lines on top of most exposed areas.

To bring all layers together I applied a strong layer of Army Painter Purple Tone Ink.

Step eleven: Yellow Kneepad

Once again I decided for a feature to stand out. I started with a strong, precise layer of Vallejo Heavy Goldbrown.

I then applied an irregular highlight of Vallejo Pale Yellow.

Finally I washed it with Army Painter Soft Tone Ink, which brought both layers together and made the knee pad look darker and used thoroughly.

Step twelve: Basing

Time to finish the paint job with a proper looking base. For this purpose I decided to go with something easy to follow. One texture, one highlight and one tuft type for extra detail. I started with a large flat brush, applying a thick layer of AK Interactive Dark Earth texture. You can switch to any dark texture like for example Games Workshop Stirland Mud. I just prefer AK’s one because I find it easier to apply.

Once dry I drybrushed Dark Earth with Games Workshop Karak Stone.

Finally I glued an Army Painter Wasteland Tuft and re-painted base’s edge black afterwards.

I hope you find this tutorial interesting. Be sure to let me know your thoughts in the comments below or via Facebook.or Instagram. I would also appreciate if you considered sharing this content with your friends, who might find it useful. Finally if you are looking for a professional miniatures painting service be sure to contact me with this contact form. I always reply within 24 hours, after which please check out your spam folder.


Also be sure to check out Orzol Studio and their awesome Kickstarter: Post-apo Survivors.

Scarhandpainting

Colour Recipes: Blood Bowl Thunder Valley Greenskins (Paleskins)

Here are some Colour Recipes for Blood Bowl Black Orcs team from Gallery: Thunder Valley Paleskins. Please take note that this is a simple colour scheme, not covering multiple overlapping layers and blends in between, that lead to the final product. It is supposed to be used as guideline not a step-by-step.

PALE skin:

Mix: Tan (val) 1:3:3 Flesh (val a), Squid Pink (val a), *

Flesh (val a), *

Pale Flesh (val a), *

Mix: Volupus Pink (gw) 1:5 Glaze Medium (gw),

Mix: Volupus Pink (gw) 1:5:1 Glaze Medium (gw), Purple Tone Ink (ap), deep lines

Mix: Volupus Pink (gw) 1:5:1 Glaze Medium (gw), Red Tone Ink (ap), deep lines

Pale Flesh (val), l&p


METAL armour:

Warplock Bronze (gw),

Gun Metal (ap),

Shining Silver (ap), l&p

Mix Strong Tone Ink (ap) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (ap),

Shining Silver (ap), l&p

RED armour:

Red Terracotta (val), stpl

Flat Red (val), stpl

Strong Tone Ink (ap),

Orange Fire (val), stpl

Flat Red (val), bl


BROWN belts & strips:

Red Terracotta (val),

Pallid Wych Flesh (gw), flbr

Off White (val), l&p

Mix: Scorched Brown (val) 1:1:1 Dark Fleshtone (val), Medium,

Mix: Strong Tone Ink (ap) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (ap),

GREY clothes:

Panzer DK. Grey (val),

Fenrisian Grey (gw), flbr

Pallid Wych Flesh (gw), l&p

Strong Tone Ink (ap),

Off White (val), l&p


BASES:

Dark Earth (ak texture),

Karak Stone (gw), drbr

Flayed One Flesh (gw), flbr

l&p – lines and points,

p – points,

dl – deep lining,

bl – blend,

gl – glaze,

drbr – drybrush,

fltbr – flatbrush,

lobr – loaded brush,

stpl – stippling,

*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)

Scarhandpainting