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Here are some Colour Recipes for Horus Heresy Mechanicum from Gallery: Skaven. Please take note that this is a simple colour scheme, not covering multiple overlapping layers and blends in between, that lead to the final product. It is supposed to be used as guideline not a step-by-step.
BROWN base:
Charred Brown (Val a), *
Earth (Val a), *
Barbarian Skin (Val), drbr
Strong Tone (AP), *
Flayed One Flesh (GW), l&p
METAL:
Tinny Tin (Val a),
Hammered Copper (Val), flbr
Shining Silver (AP), stpl
Strong Tone AP, *
Mix: Nott’s Hobbies Verdigris 2:1 Nott’s Hobbies Grime
True Copper (AP), drbr, scratches
GREEN clothes:
Mix: Burnt Moss (AP) 1:1 Gunner Camo (ap), speedpaint
Strong Tone AP, *
Angel Green (Val), flbr, l&p
Lizard Green (Val XP), bl
Camouflage Green (Val), l&p
SKIN:
Tan (Val),
Cadian Fleshtone (GW), flbr
Strong Tone (AP), *
Cadian Fleshtone (GW), flbr, gl, l&p
Pale Flesh (Val), p
GREEN OSL:
Verdigris (Val), bl
Bile Green (al a), *
Verdigris (Val), bflbr, l&p
Green Ink (Val), thinned bl
BASES:
Panzer Dark Grey (Val),
Stonewall Grey (Val), drbr
Grey RLM02 (Val a), * filter
///
Nurgle’s Rot (GW), effect
Sepia Ink (Val), bl
l&p – lines and points,
p – points,
bl – blend,
gl – glaze,
drbr – drybrush,
flbr – flatbrush,
stpl – stippling,
*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)
I hope you find this tutorial interesting. Be sure to let me know your thoughts in the comments below, or at Facebook or Instagram. I would also appreciate it if you considered sharing this content with your friends, who might find it useful. Finally if you are looking for a professional miniatures painting service, be sure to contact me with this contact form. I always reply within 24 hours, after which please check out your spam folder.
Here are some Colour Recipes for Kashyyyk themed Star Wars Shatterpoint scenery from Gallery: SW Shatterpoint Kashyyyk. Please take note that this is a simple colour scheme, not covering multiple overlapping layers and blends in between, that lead to the final product. It is supposed to be used as guideline not a step-by-step.
GREY-GREEN walls:
Panzer Dark Grey (Vallejo), *
Grey LRM02 (Vallejo), *
Neutral Grey (Vallejo), edge highlight
DARK RED doors:
German Red Brown (Vallejo),
Charred Brown (Vallejo), stpl
WEATHERING:
Charred Brown (Vallejo), thinned – streaks
Grime (Nott’s Hobbies), oil wash
Streaking Grime (AK Interactive), streaks
FILTERS:
Strong Tone (The Army Painter), *
Green Tone (The Army Painter), *
BLUE screens:
White (Vallejo), gl
White (Vallejo), detail
Blue Tone Ink (The Army Painter), wash
Omega Green (Vallejo XP), gl
LIGHTS:
White (Vallejo air), *
Sunrise Blue (Vallejo air), *
White (Vallejo), stpl
Blue Tone Ink (The Army Painter), wash
l&p – lines and points,
p – points,
bl – blend,
gl – glaze,
drbr – drybrush,
flbr – flatbrush,
stpl – stippling,
*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)
I hope you find this tutorial interesting. Be sure to let me know your thoughts in the comments below, or at Facebook or Instagram. I would also appreciate it if you considered sharing this content with your friends, who might find it useful. Finally if you are looking for a professional miniatures painting service, be sure to contact me with this contact form. I always reply within 24 hours, after which please check out your spam folder.
Welcome to Painting Twilight Kin Impaler tutorial. Here I will present to you a Step-by-step of an easy and fast painting process for this Armada ship as presented at the Gallery: Armada Twilight Kin.
This article is my second attempt at a painting tutorial uploaded in video format. You will find it at my YouTube channel and embedded below.
List of colors:
Vallejo Tinny Tin 72.060
Vallejo Hammered Copper 72.059
Vallejo Chainmail 72.053
Vallejo Silver 72.052
Vallejo Midnight Purple 72.116
Vallejo Midnight Purple Air 76.116
Vallejo Alien Purple Air 76.076
Vallejo Panzer Dark Grey Air 71.066
Vallejo Barbarian Skin 72.071
Vallejo Ghost Green Air 76.121
Vallejo Bile Green Air 76.122
Vallejo Off White 72.101
The Army Painter Strong Tone
I hope you find this article interesting. Be sure to let me know your thoughts in the comments below, or at Facebook or Instagram. I would also appreciate it if you considered sharing this content with your friends, who might find it useful. Finally if you are looking for a professional miniatures painting service, be sure to contact me with this contact form. I always reply within 24 hours, after which please check out your spam folder.
Here are some Colour Recipes for Kings of War: Armada Empire of Dust from Gallery: Armada Twilight Kin. Please take note that this is a simple colour scheme, not covering multiple overlapping layers and blends in between, that lead to the final product. It is supposed to be used as guideline not a step-by-step.
‘BROWN’ hulls:
Tinny Tin (Vallejo), *
Hammered Copper (Vallejo), flbr
Silver (Vallejo), flbr
-Strong Tone (The Army Painter), *strong
-Strong Tone (The Army Painter), *soft & dry
–Vallejo Poliurethane Matt Varnish, *
PURPLE sails:
Mix Midnight Purple (Vallejo air) 1:1 Midnight Purple (Vallejo), *
-Strong Tone (The Army Painter), *strong
-Strong Tone (The Army Painter), *soft & dry
Mix Midnight Purple (Vallejo air) 5:1 Alien Purple (Vallejo Air), *
Mix Midnight Purple (Vallejo air) 3:1 Alien Purple (Vallejo Air), *
Alien Purple (Vallejo Air), * soft zenithal highlight
–Vallejo Poliurethane Matt Varnish, *
GREEN osl:
Duck Egg Green (Vallejo Air), *
Pallid Wych Flesh (Games Workshop), flbr
Light Livery Green (Vallejo Air), *
Off White (Vallejo), l&p
Light Livery Green (Vallejo Air), bl
–Vallejo Poliurethane Matt Varnish, *
BASES:
Mix Ghost Green (Vallejo) 1:1 Ghost Green (Vallejo a),
Mix Ghost Green (Vallejo) 1:1 Ghost Green (Vallejo a),
Green Stuff World Splash Gel Water Effect Light Green Water,
AK Interactive Atlantic Blue Texture,
AK Interactive Pacific Blue Texture,
AK Interactive Water Foam Texture,
l&p – lines and points,
p – points,
bl – blend,
gl – glaze,
drbr – drybrush,
flbr – flatbrush,
stpl – stippling,
*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)
I hope you find this tutorial interesting. Be sure to let me know your thoughts in the comments below, or at Facebook or Instagram. I would also appreciate it if you considered sharing this content with your friends, who might find it useful. Finally if you are looking for a professional miniatures painting service, be sure to contact me with this contact form. I always reply within 24 hours, after which please check out your spam folder.
The Notts Hobbies is at it again! The UK based company debuted in the market last year with a set of Drybrushing tools and now they’ve expanded the range with a brand new Complete Weathering Set. I have been testing the new products for a while and am now ready to drop my take on them. Here’s my thoughts…
Similar to the Notts Hobbies Complete Drybrushing Set the new Complete Weathering Set consists of a range of useful items dedicated towards a certain area of miniature painting. The updated set contains 25ml Grime Oil Wash, 25ml Rush Oil Wash, 25ml Verdigris Oil Wash, Weathering Sponge Holder*, Heavy Weathering Sponges* (50pcs), Light Weathering Sponges (50pcs). Priced at 15,99GBP** and comprised of items worth over 20GBP total, the Complete Weathering Set is a steal!
*Included in previous Weathering Set
**you get 10% discount using code scarhand10 on checkout
This year I’ve decided to tap heavily into oil paints thus the addition of Oil Washes to Notts hobbies range was a great surprise. They came well thinned down, with heavy pigmentation and packaged in comfortable to use plastic containers. Designed to be used straight out of a bottle, mixed or further thinned down with white spirits. Once applied, they seem to dry much faster than alternatives, with a strong and vibrant finish. Personally I like the effect, but for those of you who’d like their verdigris a bit more green and rust a bit more dark – these can be mixed and combined with one another to achieve a variety of tones.
The addition of Light Sponges to the Complete Weathering Set is, in my opinion, a great move. I missed these in the previous version of the set and although I am capable of cutting some cubes out of a piece of foam, I appreciate nice looking, comfortable, pre-cut sponge cubes. Oh, and these literally come free included in the Complete Weathering Set so – I rest my case.
I’ve always had a great experience with Notts Hobbies products and the new Complete Weathering Set is no exception. If not for the fact I got it for free I would definitely order it myself, just for the washes. The Sponge Holder and 100pcs of Weathering Sponges is just a cherry on top for the price. This set seems like a great introduction to weathering with oil paints. If you’re on the fence about oils – I sincerely recommend giving the Complete Weathering Set a try. If you do – save 10% by using my affiliate link and the code scarhand10 on checkout.
I hope you find this review interesting and if you do – I would be extra happy if you tagged me at Facebook or Instagram and let me know your thoughts. I would also appreciate it if you considered sharing this content with your friends, who might find it useful. Finally if you are looking for a professional miniatures painting service, be sure to contact me with this contact form. I always reply within 24 hours, after which please check out your spam folder.
Welcome to Painting Trench Crusade New Antioch tutorial. Here I will present to you a Step-by-step of an easy and fast painting process for the Principality of New Antioch skin, a simplified version of what can be seen in Gallery: New Antioch.
Before we start, some notes:
Previous steps: Armor
Although metal elements can be painted separately I strongly recommend following part one of the article before moving to this color. All previous Trench Crusade content can be found at: GAMING/TRENCH CRUSADE.
Step one: Base Color
I have painted the initial layer with Vallejo Game Color – Tan (72.066). This is a rather thick paint, that I like to thin down before application.
Step two: Highlight
Next, I applied a large area flatbrush highlight of Vallejo Game Color – Anthea Skin (72.107). Another thick paint, but this time I used it right out of the bottle in order to increase coverage and build layer volume.
Step three: Highlight
I then applied a more contained highlight of Vallejo Game Color – Skin Tone (72.099), switching between edge highlight and flatbrush.
Step four: Wash
Similarly to previous painting tutorials, I applied a lot of The Army Painter – Strong Tone Wash. I actually used an airbrush for this, covering the entire miniature, but it might as well be done manually.
Step five: Final Highlight
Finally I applied strong highlight by stippling Skin Tone (72.099) onto the sharp edges, muscle groups and knuckles, making the color pop.
I hope you find this article interesting. Be sure to let me know your thoughts in the comments below, or at Facebook or Instagram. I would also appreciate it if you considered sharing this content with your friends, who might find it useful. Finally if you are looking for a professional miniatures painting service, be sure to contact me with this contact form. I always reply within 24 hours, after which please check out your spam folder.
Welcome to Painting Trench Crusade New Antioch tutorial. Here I will present to you a Step-by-step of an easy and fast painting process for the Principality of New Antioch metal as can be seen in Gallery: New Antioch.
Before we start, some notes:
Previous steps: Armor
Although metal elements can be painted separately I strongly recommend following part one of the article before moving to this color. All previous Trench Crusade content can be found at: GAMING/TRENCH CRUSADE.
Step one: Base Color
I have painted the initial layer with Vallejo Game Color – Tinny Tin (72.060). This relatively thin color is easy to move into any recesses, but also maintains a strong coverage. Can be thinned down ever so slightly if needed.
Step two: Highlight
Next, I applied a large area flatbrush highlight of Vallejo Game Color – Chainmail (72.053). A much brighter steel color with strong pigmentation that covered most of the surface, except recesses. I deliberately used flatbrushing rather than drybrushing, to build volume and prepare the surface for incoming washes.
Step three: Highlight
I then applied a more contained highlight of Vallejo Game Color – Silver (72.052), switching between edge highlight and flatbrush.
Step four: Wash
Next I applied a lot of The Army Painter – Strong Tone Wash. I like to go hard on washes, applying lots and lots of them to allow for pigmentation to do its thing. I actually used an airbrush for this, covering the entire miniature, but it might as well be done manually.
Step five: Final Highlight
Finally I applied soft highlight by stippling semi-moist Vallejo Game Color – Silver (72.052) onto the sharp edges and most exposed areas of metal. This might work especially good for tiny detail such as chainmail, but also large areas that lack color diversity.
I hope you find this article interesting. Be sure to let me know your thoughts in the comments below, or at Facebook or Instagram. I would also appreciate it if you considered sharing this content with your friends, who might find it useful. Finally if you are looking for a professional miniatures painting service, be sure to contact me with this contact form. I always reply within 24 hours, after which please check out your spam folder.
I’ve been having a blast playing on the Silesian Trenchline scenery set for the last two weeks. Spoiler Alert: The set has been completed for quite some time now. That out of the way, let’s rewind a bit and get right back to where I left in the Silesian Trenchline part two article. That would be the undercoat…
In order to save time I prefer to get everything built first, then apply undercoat wholesale. This is where two 2×4′ folding tables and a set of thin HDF trays tends to come in handy. I go one tray / large piece at a time, spraying black undercoat where it’s required. I then set the tray on one of the tables and get another one. Once out of free space, I stack the trays on top of the previous layer, using small plastic cups as supports with a minimal point of contact. Fifteen minutes later everything’s nicely black.
For the painting process I went with a trusted, simple color scheme. The goal of which was to produce effective results while being easy to repeat across the entire set or to return to with any new scenery additions in the future (Such as the Antenna Cross added later on).
The core list of paints and a video tutorial following each step of the painting process can be found at Tutorial: Painting Trench Crusade Antenna Cross.
Easy to say the painting process was much faster than the building and modeling part. One to two hours of airbrushing followed by a few more hours spent on detailing. Finally a break after applying the AK Interactive Dark Earth texture on top of each piece, to come back another day and finish with a round of drybrush, apply varnish, add a few dozen Gamers Grass Brown 2mm tufts and call it done.
Although the Silesian Trenchline was complete and I had a few games on the set, the inspirational release never came. A few days later I still felt hunger for more Trench Crusade scenery for my tiny dudesmen to explore. The set felt complete and was pretty playable, but upon giving it more thought I figured to double down on some fancy centerpieces – or at least fancier than the ones I already had…
First, I added the probably most iconic Trench Crusade scenery piece – the Antenna Cross. I used a widely available STL with a few tweaks to increase playability and set the piece within my existing scenery set visual cues. A large wooden step around the base of the cross with a small sniper’s nest mid way up the cross and some Sandbags here and there made it work. I felt sated for the day…
The very next day, I had to come back to the project for another round. Got super inspired with a set of DIY objective markers seen at a local Discord – just had to make a set of my own. Nothing special, just a mix of resized 3d printed weapons, crates, ammunition and candles. I threw in a Meshmixered statue of Saint Karen – Patron of Supplies Acquisition, for a strongly themed secondary centerpiece.
Done in two hours, with a bit more work put into making the objective markers pop on the gaming board, finally put my scenery hunger to rest. For now…
This is it. The Silesian Trenchline is now ‘fully’ completed, ready to be fed the blood of plastic fighters. Will it ever get expanded? Maybe, but I already moved on to more projects, including half a dozen commissioned lightweight Trench Crusade scenery sets. I also feel like putting a lot more games in, before deciding what scenery might improve the playability on the Silesian Trenchline. If you have any fun ideas – be sure to drop them in the comments below. Until then – keep your helmets on!
hope you find this article interesting. Be sure to let me know your thoughts in the comments below, or at Facebook or Instagram. I would also appreciate it if you considered sharing this content with your friends, who might find it useful. Finally if you are looking for a professional miniatures painting service, be sure to contact me with this contact form. I always reply within 24 hours, after which please check out your spam folder.
Welcome to Painting Trench Crusade Antenna Cross tutorial. Here I will present to you a Step-by-step of an easy and fast painting process for this outstanding piece of scenery as presented at the Gallery: Silesian Trenchline.
This is the first time I uploaded a full video painting tutorial and I hope regular visitors won’t mind the change of the format. I am not planning on switching to video format completely. You can expect more written articles to pop up in the future 😉
List of colors:
Games Workshop Chaos Black Spray
Games Workshop Flayed One Flesh
Vallejo Panzer Dark Grey 74.603
Vallejo Grey RLM02 71.044
Vallejo Cold Grey 72.750
Vallejo Tinny Tin 72.060
Vallejo Medium Sea Grey 70.870
Vallejo Barbarian Skin 72.071
Vallejo Barbarian Skin 76.071
Vallejo Chainmail 72.053
Vallejo Ghost Grey 72.046
The Army Painter Grim Black
The Army Painter Strong Tone
AK Interactive Dark Earth texture
AK Interactive Light Rust wash
AK Interactive Streaking Grime
Gamers Gras 2mm Brown Tufts
I hope you find this article interesting. Be sure to let me know your thoughts in the comments below, or at Facebook or Instagram. I would also appreciate it if you considered sharing this content with your friends, who might find it useful. Finally if you are looking for a professional miniatures painting service, be sure to contact me with this contact form. I always reply within 24 hours, after which please check out your spam folder.
Welcome to Painting Trench Crusade New Antioch tutorial. Here I will present to you a Step-by-step of an easy and fast painting process for the Principality of New Antioch armor as can be seen in Gallery: New Antioch.
Before we start, some notes:
Step one: Undercoat
I started with a thorough layer of Games Workshop Chaos Black spray. This is a standard procedure for me. Chaos Black spray is my go to choice when it comes to undercoat, providing a thin, but durable layer of undercoat.
Step two: Undertone
For the initial layer I used Vallejo Model Air – Panzer Dark Grey (71.056) and airbrushed it all around the miniature. This color will be mostly covered later on, but will help build the volume and set the tone.
Step three: Zenithal Base Color
Next I applied Vallejo Game Air – Grey RLM02 (71.044) via airbrush. I focused on the exposed elements of armor (and cloths for other miniatures), but also stones and planks on the base. Although mostly zenithal, this layer was also applied to vertical surfaces, such as the shield, kneepads, chest etc. I took care to build gradient on such surfaces.
Step four: Highlight
I switched to regular brush, mixed Vallejo Game Air – Grey RLM02 (71.044) with Games Workshop Flayed One Flesh at a 2:1 ratio, then applied a highlight using the Flatbrush technique, focusing on the most exposed areas. This one is crucial and mastering ‘Flatbrush’ can be a fantastic tool to speed up miniatures painting. I also applied a few standard highlights on the edges.
I then adjusted the ration to 1:1 and made another round, less spread.
Step five: Highlight
With Games Workshop Flayed One Flesh I applied another layer. Apart from regular highlights I also stippled exposed areas with the belly of the brush. Not too strong, just to build some volume and leave marks similar to scratches.
Step six: Wash
Here’s where the magic happened. I airbrushed The Army Painter Strong Tone all over the miniature (including different colors built up to this point, but that is a topic for another article to topple.). This can be done manually, but I like the way airbrushed washed behave with less stains and a bit less contrast in the recesses.
Step seven: Final Highlight
I went back to Games Workshop Flayed One Flesh and highlighted the miniature, adding a few well placed spots in the centers and on the edges. This added a strong contrast and changed the way the main color is being interpreted by the eye.
Voila – job complete!
For more Trench Crusade tutorials visit my TUTORIALS REPOSITORY. I add free content regularly, mostly around the games I’m hyped about or projects I work on. Who knows – maybe the Trench Crusade will get it’s own tab in the future. Until then – stay tuned for more Trench Crusade content.
I hope you find this article interesting. Be sure to let me know your thoughts in the comments below, or at Facebook or Instagram. I would also appreciate it if you considered sharing this content with your friends, who might find it useful. Finally if you are looking for a professional miniatures painting service, be sure to contact me with this contact form. I always reply within 24 hours, after which please check out your spam folder.
