Here are some Color Recipes for the Combined Army. Please take note that this is a simple color scheme, not covering multiple overlapping layers and blends in between, that lead to the final product. It is supposed to be used as guideline not a step-by-step.
BLACK/GREY armour & weapons:
Black Undercoat,
Panzer Dark Grey (Val),*
Fenrisian Grey (GW), l&p
Pallid Wych Flesh (GW), l&p
Dark Tone Ink (AP),
Pallid Wych Flesh (GW), l&p
ORANGE fibers:
Mix: Hot Orange (Val) 1:1 Heavy Orange (Val)
Heavy Orange (Val), flbr, l&p
Mix: Strong+Soft 6:3:1 Bloodletter (GW), Medium, wash
Skin Tone (val), l
Hot Orange (val a), bl
Skin Tone (val), p
BROWN:
Satchel Brown (AP), bl
Khaki (AP), l&p
PURPLE blades:
Warlord Purple (Val a), bl
Squid Pink (Val), l&p
Warlord Purple (Val a), bl
Off White (Val), l&p
SKIN:
Tan (Val),
Anthea Skin (Val), flbr
Skin Tone (Val), l&p
Mix Purple Tone Ink (AP) 2:1:1 Strong Tone Ink (AP), Medium, wash
Skin Tone (Val), l&p
BASES:
Bloody Land (AK Interactive), texture
Heavy Orange (Val), drbr
Alien Fire Tufts (Gamers Grass),
l&p – lines and points,
p – points,
bl – blend,
gl – glaze,
drbr – drybrush,
flbr – flatbrush,
stpl – stippling,
*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)
I hope you find this tutorial interesting. Be sure to let me know your thoughts in the comments below, or at Facebook or Instagram. I would also appreciate it if you considered sharing this content with your friends, who might find it useful. Finally if you are looking for a professional miniatures painting service, be sure to contact me with this contact form. I always reply within 24 hours, after which please check out your spam folder.
Here are some Color Recipes for Infinity Varuna. Please take note that this is a simple color scheme, not covering multiple overlapping layers and blends in between, that lead to the final product. It is supposed to be used as guideline not a step-by-step.
Purple Armor:
Mix Alien Purple (val) 1:1 Water, *
Lustful Purple (val), flbr
Mix Deep Purple (val xp) 3:1-1:1 Water, wash
Lustful Purple (val), l&p
Mix Lustful Purple (val) 1:1 Warm Grey (val), l&p
Turquoise Armor:
Hydra Turquoise (ap),
Aquamarine (val), flbr
Mix Snake Green (val xp) 1:3 Water, wash
Verdigris (val), l
Verdigris (val), p
Black Armor:
Panzer Dark Grey (val a),
Fenrisian Grey (gw), flbr
Pallid Wych Flesh (gw), flbr
Dark Tone Ink (ap), wash
Pallid Wych Flesh (gw), l&p
Off White (val), l&p
Skin:
Tan (val),
Mix 1:1 Tan (val), Dwarf Flesh (val a), flbr
Strong Tone Ink (ap), wash
Dwarf Flesh (val a), l&p
Brown:
Gorgon Brown (val),
Khaki (val), flbr
Copper Brown (val xp), wash
Strong Tone Ink (ap), wash
Strong Tone Ink (ap), wash
Lights:
Aquamarine (val),
Verdigris (val), p
Dark Turquoise (val ink), wash
Verdigris (val), p
l&p – lines and points,
l – lines, edge highlights,
p – points,
dl – deep lining,
bl – blend,
gl – glaze,
drbr – drybrush,
flbr – flatbrush,
lobr – loaded brush,
stpl – stippling,
*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)
Here are some Colour Recipes for Infinity O-12 from Gallery: Infinity O-12. Please take note that this is a simple colour scheme, not covering multiple overlapping layers and blends in between, that lead to the final product. It is supposed to be used as guideline not a step-by-step.
BLACK armor:
Chaos Black, undercoat
Pancer Dark Grey (Val a), *
Fenrisian Grey (GW), flbr
Pale Wych Flesh (GW), flbr, l&p
Dark Tone Ink (AP), wash
Pale Wych Flesh (GW), l&p
WHITE armor:
Mix Ghost Grey (Val) 1:1 Wolf Grey (Val a),
Mix Ghost Grey (Val) 1:1 Wolf Grey (Val a),
White (Val a), bl
Off White (Val), bl, l&p
BROWN clothes:
Black Armor base,
Dark Brown (Val A), bl
Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP), wash
Karak Stone (GW), l&p
BLUE elements:
French Blue (val a),
Ultramarine Blue (val a), l
Heth Blue (gw), l&p
Glacier Blue (val), l&p
VISIERS:
Emerald (Val),
Mix Emerald (Val) x:x Off White (Val), l&p
TURQUOISE helmet dots,
Coelia Greenshade (GW),
BASES:
Coal Black (P3), *
Turquoise (Val), *
Turquoise (Val), l
Pale Wych Flesh (GW), l
Duck Egg Green (Val a), OSL
Light Livery Green (Val a), OSL
Off White (Val), l
l&p – lines and points,
p – points,
dl – deep lining,
bl – blend,
gl – glaze,
drbr – drybrush,
fltbr – flatbrush,
lobr – loaded brush,
stpl – stippling,
*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)
The idea of introducing cars to my Infinity gaming board is one to haunt me for quite some time now. Many times I found myself in a toy store, standing before a toy car shelf and trying to pick a right car to fit Infinity the Game scale and sci-fi theme. Easy to say that all my efforts were futile, thus I postponed the idea time and time again, slowly loosing hope. This state of things changed drastically just few days ago…
I was visiting the post office, when all of a sudden I saw it! The postal worker was playing with an ideal toy car. Wait!? She wasn’t playing at all! That was a PC Mouse! Imagine my shock, when that realization struck me. Shaped like a car, with lights glowing bright, the PC Mouse was just perfect!
Two days later I was in possession of half a dozen PC Mouse cars. This was where “Infinity Cars” Special Project actually started. After a good look at the cars features I figured that apart of awesome futuristic design, the cars had translucent light covers, black mirrored glass, chrom elements plus some of them had battery powered interior glowing lights. These were key features I wanted to transfer onto final form. I started dismantling the cars to pieces…
It didn’t took long, as parts came off pretty easily. Depending on a car type there were either one or two screws that needed handling, other than that I only needed to pull parts gently for them to come apart.
Every piece being separated, I prepared everything for a proper paint job. I didn’t modify the cars too much. Removed “scroll buttons” and glued in some Warhammer 40k bitz to add Sci-fi looks instead, glued left and right buttons firm, removed “the insides” of cable mouses. Didn’t even bother to strip the paint.
Afterwards the cars got undercoated and soon after I applied a paint job with bright, juicy colours. I decided to keep the paint job simple, with no decals, freehands and other stuff that could have spoiled the perfect shape of these futuristic cars bodies. These are scenery pieces after all, too much is not always same as better.
The “Infinity Cars” are nowe done and I cannot wait to use them in the upcoming games of Infinity. I do hope you like the idea of using PC Mouse as an Infinity scenery piece. If you want to grab your own, just look for “PC Mouse Car” at E-bay or google. In the meantime I invite you tocheck out the “Infinity Cars” Gallery… and tell me what you think in the comments below 😉
Cheers!
Here are some Colour Recipes for Haqqislam from Gallery: Infinity Operation Red Veil. Please take note that this is a simple colour scheme, not covering multiple overlapping layers and blends in between, that lead to the final product. It is supposed to be used as guideline not a step-by-step.
MILITARY armour:
Interior Green (Val a),*
Mix Interior Green (Val a) 2:1 Desert Yellow (Val a),*
Mix Interior Green (Val a) 2:1:1 Desert Yellow (Val a), Bonewhite (Val a),*
Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),
Flayed One Flesh (GW), l&p
Off White (Val), l&p
CREEME leather armour:
Mix Olive Drab (Val a) 1:1:1:1 Dark Fleshtone (Val a), Strong Tone Ink (AP), Soft Tone Ink (AP),
Bonewhite (Val a),
Flayed One Flesh (GW), l&p
Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),
Pale Wych Flesh (GW), l&p
BLACK/GREY outfits & weapons:
Black Undercoat, Mix Black 1:X Panzer DK Grey (Val),
Panzer DK Grey (Val),
Fenrisian Grey (GW),
Pallid Wych Flesh (GW), l&p
Dark Tone Ink (AP)
Fenrisian Grey (GW), blend
Pallid Wych Flesh (GW), l&p
Off White (Val), p
MARTIAN bases:
Cavalry Brown (Val), *
Martian Ironcrust (GW) & Martian Ironearth (GW), texture
Fire Dragon Bright (GW), flbr
l&p – lines and points,
p – points,
bl – blend,
gl – glaze,
drbr – drybrush,
flbr – flatbrush,
lobr – loaded brush,
stpl – stippling,
*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)
Here are some Colour Recipes for Yu-Jing from Gallery: Infinity Yu-Jing lvl 5. Please take note that this is a simple colour scheme, not covering multiple overlapping layers and blends in between, that lead to the final product. It is supposed to be used as guideline not a step-by-step.
YELLOW armour:
Orange Brown (Val), *
Scrofulous Brown (Val), *(horizontal)
Mix Scrofulouus Brown (Val) 4:1 Off White (Val), *
Ice Yellow (Val), l&p
Light Tone Ink (AP), inner lining
BLACK/GREY outfits & weapons:
Black Undercoat, Mix Black 1:X Panzer DK Grey (Val),
Panzer DK Grey (Val),
Fenrisian Grey (GW),
Pallid Wych Flesh (GW), l&p
Dark Tone Ink (AP)
Fenrisian Grey (GW), blend
Pallid Wych Flesh (GW), l&p
Off White (Val), p
TURQUOISE clothes:
Coal Black (P3),
Scurvy Green (Val),
Mix Scurvy Green (Val) 3:2 Hydra Turquoise (AP), lobr
Hydra Turquoise (AP),
Arcane Blue (P3), l&p
Coelia Greenshade (GW),
Arcane Blue (P3), l&p
SKIN:
Carne Marron Tan (Val),
Dwarf Skin (Val a),
Dwarf Skin (Val) + Pale Flesh (Val a),
Pale Flesh (Val a), l&p
Pale Flesh (Val),
Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP), inner lining
Pale Flesh (Val),
l&p – lines and points,
p – points,
bl – blend,
gl – glaze,
drbr – drybrush,
flbr – flatbrush,
lobr – loaded brush,
stpl – stippling,
*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)
Here are some Colour Recipes for Aleph from Gallery: Infinity Aleph S.S.S. lvl 4. Please take note that this is a simple colour scheme, not covering multiple overlapping layers and blends in between, that lead to the final product. It is supposed to be used as guideline not a step-by-step.
BLACK/GREY armour & weapons:
Black Undercoat,
Panzer Dark Grey (Val),*
Fenrisian Grey (GW), l&p
Pallid Wych Flesh (GW), l&p
Dark Tone Ink (AP),
Pallid Wych Flesh (GW), l&p
PURPLE skin:
Warpfiend Grey (GW),
Slaanesh Grey (GW),
Mix Purple Tone Ink (AP) 2:1:1 Strong Tone Ink (AP), Medium,
Slaanesh Grey (GW), l&p
Mix Slaanesh Grey (GW) 1:1 Pale Wych Flesh (GW), l&p
CREAM armour:
Mix Wolf Grey (Val) 1:1 Fenrisian Grey (GW),
Ghost Grey (Val),
Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1:1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP), Flow Improover, Medium,
Off White (Val), l&p
PURPLE armour:
Hexen Lichen (Val),
Genestealer Purple (GW), flbr
Dechala Lilac (GW), l&p
Purple Tone Ink (AP),
Dechala Lilac (GW), l&p
Pale Wych Flesh (GW), l&p
l&p – lines and points,
p – points,
bl – blend,
gl – glaze,
drbr – drybrush,
flbr – flatbrush,
stpl – stippling,
*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)
Welcome to Painting Jade Bases tutorial. Here I will take you on a Step-by-step trip through the process of painting jade Sci-Fi bases the same way as seen at: Gallery: Aleph S.S.S.
Before we start, some notes:
* This one requires an Airbrush.
* What works for me might not necessarily work for you.
* I used Zen Terrain “Futura” base toppers.
* I started by airbrushing a thick layer of Vallejo Panzer Dark Grey.
* I followed with a layer of P3 Coal Black, mixed with Flow Improover.
* Next I applied a layers of Vallejo Turquoise, mixed with Flow Improover, but this time made sure to leave some spots of previous layer visible.
* Using a regular brush I then highlighted all the edges with Vallejo Turquoise.
* Next I partially higlighted the edges with Games Workshop Pale Wych Flesh.
* Back to airbruush, I applied a layer of Vallejo Light Livery Green on top of all lower parts of the base.
* I then washed all recess spots with Games Workshop Waywatcher Green, being careful not to leave stain outside the lower parts of the base.
* Finally I painted side edges black. Job done.
That’s all! If you followd this tutorial and painted your own bases this way, be sure to leave a comment and drop me some pics via Facebook 😉
Cheers!
Welcome to Painting Infinity Daofei Camo tutorial. Here I will take you on a Step-by-step trip through the process of painting Daofei Camo the same way as seen at: Gallery: Yu-Jing.
Before we start, some notes:
* This one requires no Airbrush.
* For better visibility there are two different sizes of the pattern.
* What works for me might not necessarily work for you.
* Start by applying a smooth layer of P3 Bastion Grey.
* Create basic pattern, applying Pale Wych Flesh spots leaving similar sized gaps inbetween .
* Next apply Panzer Dark Grey spots between Pale Wych Flesh, so that every new spot touches at least one from the previous layer.
* Follow up with a third layer of pattern, using Interior Green and following the same rules. Be sure to leave some spots of Bastion Grey visible.
* Lastly add tiny spots of Panzer Dark Grey on top of Pale Wych Flesh pattern. Some might touch the edges.
That’s it, you have painted the pattern. Congrats! Be sure to visit Infinity Yu-Jing gallery for further inspiration if need be 😉
Welcome to Painting “Guijia” tutorial. Here I will take you on a Step-by-step trip through almost entire process of painting Infinity the Game “Guijia” Special Project.
Before we start, some notes:
* This one requires an Airbrush.
* Paints are to be properly thinned before airbrush application.
* As usual, please take note that what works for me might not necessarily work for you.
Allright! Undercoat the miniature with black, check your gear and let’s do this!
* Start with a solid layer of airbrushed Val. Orange Brown. I applied mine in three delicate, overlaping layers. I went around the miniature, with top and bottom, focusing on Armor Plates areas.
* Next, airbrush Val. Scrofulous Brown. Mostly from the top and up to 45* degree, focusing on the most exposed areas. You can start building transitions to previous layer avoiding shadowed areas.
* I forgot to take a picture of this layer. That's on me. Fortunatelly the result can be seen on the next picture. The layer is a mix of Val. Scrofulous Brown and Val. Off White, applied from top onto the center of all exposed areas.
* Next, outline all the edges with Val. Ice Yellow
* Lastly, underline armor plates with Army Painter Soft Tone Ink. I also used strongly dilluted Soft Tone to apply some more shadow in certain 'over the edge' areas.
* This is the most difficult part of the process. Mix Val. Black (air) 1:5 with Val. Panzer Dark Grey (air) and apply it to everything, that is not external armour plates and blade. The difficult part is to not mess up all these sexy Orange-to-Yellow armour plates. If you do, you can try out Erasing Bloopers following one of my tutorials, still the airbrushed nature of the layer will make it extremely difficult.
* Next apply a watered down GW Fenrisian Grey over black areas. It is important not to fill any recesses. You can apply more than one thin layer, overlaping each other and even leave some irregularities - this will work to the overall paint job's advantage.
* Next, higlight edges with GW Pale Wych Flesh. This time no thinning down the paint. You can imitate some scratches, reflexions etc.
* Now wash it all with a thinned down Army Painter Dark Tone Ink. Once again be extra carefuul not to paint over finished armour plates.
* Now it's time to make it POP! Using GW Pale Wych Flesh and Val. Off White, highlight the edges and create some points of focus, scratches, reflections etc.
* Start by masking the Guijia's leg. I used a piece of foil and masking tape to cover areas that I didn;t wanted to get dirty. Then manually applu a layer of Val. Prussian Blue, avoiding areas of Black Mesh.
* Next airbrush a layer of Light Sea Blue, focusing on the most exposed areas of armour.
* Next, airbrush a mix of Val. Light Sea Blue with a bit of Val. White focusing on middle areas, creating a transition from previous layer.
* Next highlight the edges with GW Pale Wych Flesh.
* To seal Blue, wash it with thinned down GW Guilliman Blue Glaze. You can see that I have also painted some battle damage. I did it using Val. Cavalry Brown, underlined with Val. Off White.
I leave adding Black Under Armour and additional details to you. Now to the Sword… To be honest, because of strong light, pictures taken during this one’s painting process did not captured how the sword looked like and I really don’t like how they turned out. That being said – I will still show you the Sword and name the paints used, but instead of a Step-by-step tutorial, let’s just call it a BONUS.
List of paints:
Val. Warlord Purple,
Val. Off white,
GW. Pale Wych Flesh,
AP. Purple Tone Ink,
I leave the base and additional detail to you. Congratulations, you have painted a Guijia 🙂
Was this tutorial helpful? Did you enjoyed it? Leave me a comment 😉
I hope you find this tutorial interesting. Be sure to let me know your thoughts in the comments below or via Facebook or Instagram. I would also appreciate if you considered sharing this content with your friends, who might find it useful. Finally if you are looking for a professional miniatures painting service be sure to contact me with this contact form. I always reply within 24 hours, after which please check out your spam folder.