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BASING TUTORIALS

Tutorial: KoW Armada Water Bases

Welcome to Kings of War Armada Water Bases tutorial. Here I will take you on a Step-by-step trip through the process of creating and painting bases as can be found in the Gallery: Armada Basileans from Mantic Games Kings of War Armada.

Before we start, some notes:

  • I put aside realism and focused on simplicity and rule of cool instead.
  • As usual, please take note that what works for me might not necessarily work for you.

Introduction:

I plan to go all-in with Mantic’s KoW: Armada. This means a lot of ships from across numerous fleets. To keep my bases easy to paint and visually coherent I decided to limit myself to some water effects and simple tricks. Instead of going through a lot of effort, trying to build multiple layers of transparent water, I switched out standard MDF bases for clear acrylics. 
That doesn’t mean the method wouldn’t work with MDF’s. If you’d rather stick with Mantic’s bases – undercoat them white, then paint sides with some dark blue and you’d be ready to go. That being said, this method was developed with clear acrylic bases in mind so please take that into account when trying different approaches. 

The process:

Without further ado, let’s get these bases wet!
I used:

  • Pacific Blue Water Gel from AK Interactive Diorama Series
  • Water Foam from AK Interactive Diorama Series 
  • Water Gel effects from AK Interactive Diorama Series
  • White paint
  • Clear acrylic bases

Step one:

I used a large brush to apply AK Interactive Diorama Series: Pacific Blue Water Gel onto entire surface of the base. I then stippled a bit to create an uneven surface. Lastly I used a finger to remove the excess gel from the sides of the base.

Step two:

I repeated first step two more times, leaving the paint to dry between each repeat. This darkened the base significantly and resulten in a nice solid layer with a lot more detail on top of the first one.

Step three:

Once I was done painting ships I applied AK Interactive Pacific Blue Gel at the edges of each ship’s underside. I then followed with Super Glue through the middle and glued the ship on top of a base. Excess gel was queezed out and filled any holes between the ship and the base.

Step four:

I then applied more Pacific Blue Gel around the ship. It was a bit messy so I used a clean flat brush to move any excess gel from the ship’s sides and onto the base.

Step five:

Some time later I applied AK Interactive clear Water Gel effects around the ship. I used a small brush and slowly built the mass of splashing water at the front and on the sides of the ship. This time I didn’t care about messing up the hull.

Step six:

Next I applied AK Interactive Water Foam. Using a small brush I applied small dots of the effect on top of previous layer. This one is very white so I tried to avoid applying to much. Mistakes were removed with a clean flat brush – pushed into more tight lines, where necessary.

Step seven:

Lastly I mixed white paint, water and AK Interactive clear Water Gel effect and stippled a bit behind and around the ship to create a nice effect of dissolving water foam. 

Task complete! The fleet is now sailing into the unknown. I hope you like this tutorial. For more pictures of finished fleet visit Gallery: Armada Basileans

Be sure to let me know your thoughts on the method either in the comments below or at my facebook profile

Please link this tutorial to anyone who likes to learn new hobby tricks. 

Lastly I also invite you to follow me at Instagram, where I drop some nice pictures from time to time.

All speed ahead and see you in the next article!

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Tutorial: Rocky Bases with Gamers Grass

Welcome to Rocky Bases tutorial. Here I will take you on a Step-by-step trip through the process of creating and painting Rocky Bases as presented in the picture below. This adventure is possible thanks to generosity of Gamers Grass and their easy to use, fantastic products.

Before we start, some notes:

  • This one does not requires airbrush.
  • To better demonstrate the technique used I used standard 55mm and 25mm round bases.
  • As usual, please take note that what works for me might not necessarily work for you.

Modelling:

As mentioned in previous Tutorial, when making bases, I usually aim for fast, simple, yet effective solutions. It is important to pick a basing method that is easy to copy onto large quantities of miniatures or coming back to a project. This is why I consider Gamers Grass Basing Bits a perfect solution. Nicely textured, ready to use straight out of the box – glue them on, add some texture around – you’re ready to paint. All that being said – for this particular base type I choose Gamers Grass “Rocks” basing bits.

Step one: Applying basing bits

I started by applying glue onto the base and gluing few basing bits on top.

Step two: Applying texture

I then applied texture with Games Workshop Stirland Mud.

At this point entire “Modelling” part is done. If  it seem fast it’s because it really is. Just two steps and you’re ready to paint!

Painting:

I choose to paint these Rocky bases in a classic Bron plus Grey style. Assuming these are meant to be used for a large collection, I want to keep things simple. Would be perfect to close in about three layers per color, with a single type of tufts on top. Just your everyday nice looking, coherent bases. Here’s how I went about it…

Step two: Undercoat

I applied a black undercoat.

Step two: Main color

I then painted entire base with Vallejo Charred Brown. Once dry I drybrushed Games Workshop Calthan Brown on top.

Step two: Secondary color

For rocks I went with Vallejo Panzer Dark Grey, followed by a drybrush of Games Workshop Fortress Grey.

Step tree: Highlights

Final highlight was done with a drybrush of Games Workshop Karak Stone for brown and a drybrush of Vallejo Ghost Grey for rocks.

Step tree: Tufts

Finally I applied Gamers Grass Swamp Wild Tufts.


And with that the job was done! Fast and easy – as all bases should be. I hope this was a pleasant tutorial and that you saw how simple the process is. If you want to learn more about Gamers Grass products – here’s my review:

Tutorial: Temple Bases with Gamers Grass

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Tutorial: Temple Bases with Gamers Grass

Welcome to Temple Bases tutorial. Here I will take you on a Step-by-step trip through the process of creating and painting Temple Bases as presented in the picture below. This adventure is possible thanks to generosity of Gamers Grass and their easy to use, fantastic products.

Before we start, some notes:

  • This one requires airbrush.
  • To better demonstrate the technique used I used standard 55mm and 25mm round bases.
  • As usual, please take note that what works for me might not necessarily work for you.

Modelling:

In my opinion base is supposed to complement a miniature, not steal the spotlight. For this reason, when making bases, I usually aim for fast, simple, yet effective solutions. Important thing to note when deciding on what to use for your bases is to pick a method that is easy to copy. This is why I consider Gamers Grass Basing Bits a perfect solution. Nicely textured, ready to use straight out of the box – glue them on, add some texture around – you’re ready to paint. All that being said – for this particular base type I choose Gamers Grass “Temple” basing bits.

Step one: Applying basing bits

I started by applying glue onto the base and gluing few basing bits on top.

Step two: Applying texture

I then applied texture with Games Workshop Stirland Mud.

At this point entire “Modelling” part is done. If  it seem fast it’s because it really is. Just two steps and you’re ready to paint!

Painting:

I choose to paint these Temple bases in a bit of a Desert’ish style. Let’s say these are meant to be used for a large army. I want to keep things simple, best if within three layers per color, crowned with a single type of tufts. Nothing fancy, just nice looking, coherent bases. Here’s how I went about it…

Step one: Undercoat

I applied a black undercoat. This is my usual start for everything 😛

Step two: Main color

I then airbrushed Vallejo Desert Yellow over entire base. Once dry I applied Vallejo European Dust Wash.

Step two: Secondary color

For ruins I choose Vallejo Cold Grey, followed by a wash of water thinned Vallejo Dark Panzer Grey.

Step tree: Highlights

I then highlighted both colors with a soft drybrush of Games Workshop Flayed One Flesh. I also applied some highlights with the same color on the edges of ruins – just a bit to make them pop.

Step tree: Tufts

Finally I applied Gamers Grass Burned Wild Tufts.


Job done! There’s some poetry in both starting and finishing a base using products from the same company 😛 Either way – I hope this was a pleasant tutorial and that you saw how simple the process is. If you want to learn more about Gamers Grass products – here’s my review:

Tutorial: Temple Bases with Gamers Grass

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Tutorial: Desert Bases

Welcome to Painting Desert Bases tutorial. Here I will take you on a Step-by-step trip through the process of painting Desert Bases the same way as seen at: Gallery: Infinity USARF

Before we start, some notes:

  • This one does not requires airbrush.
  • To better demonstrate the technique used I used standard 55mm and 25mm round bases.
  • As usual, please take note that what works for me might not necessarily work for you.

Step one: Undercoat

I started with a lazy layer of Games Workshop Gorthor Brown. Any similar colour would do and the layer doesn’t need to be thorough.

Step two: Base texture

I applied a solid irregular layer of Games Workshop Agrellan Badlands with some points of Games Workshop Agrellan Earth on top.

Step three: Highlight

Next I drybrushed a layer of Games Workshop Karak Stone. Some pieces of cracked earth fell off, but that doesn’t matter in the long run.

Step four: Highlight

I drybrushed again, this time with Games Workshop Flayed One Flesh.

Step five: Tufts

I glued Paint Forge Steppe tufts on top of the bases, ensuring that any points where cracked earth fell off got covered. 

Here’s how the finished base looks like. 

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Tutorial: Cityfight Bases

In this step-by-step tutorial I’m going to show you how to create Cityfight bases same way I did for Gallery: Tau Sa’Cea.

MODELLING:

I used:

  • PVA glue
  • Super glue,
  • Hobby knife,
  • Gravel,
  • Toothpicks,
  • Plasticard,
  • Lollipop sticks,
  • Paper tube,
  • Plastic sprues,

Step one: Special detail

Using a hobby knife I cut all the sticks, sprues, toothpicks, plasticard and tube into small pieces. I made sure to cut one side of each piece at an angle, to better position each piece on the base. I then glued random pieces on top of a base using Super glue.

Step two: Gravel

I applied PVA glue around previously glued pieces. I then applied Super glue on top of it and, before super glue hardened, covered entire thing with thick sand mixed with hobby gravel.

Step three: Texture

I then textured rest of the base using Games Workshop Astrogranite and Astrogranite Debris paints.

PAINTING:

I started with Black Undercoat, then airbrushed a layer of Vallejo Cold Grey, followed short by Vallejo Stonewall Grey. I then washed everything black using Army Painter Dark Tone Ink and once it dried I drybrushed entire base with Games Workshop Administratum Grey.

For metal debris elements I used a mix of Games Workshop Warplock Bronze and Army Painter Gun Metal, followed by a highlight of Army Painter Shining Silver. I then washed all the pieces brown with Army Painter Strong Tone Ink.

For additional depth and effects I blended in some watered Vallejo Earth. Next I washed all metal debris with a mix of Vallejo Dark Red Ochre Pigment and Army Painter Soft Tone Ink. Lastly I drybrushed grey areas with Vallejo Ghost Grey.

Edges repainted black and job done!

You like this article? Don’t be a stranger! Let me know what you think in the comments below or at my Facebook profile! Cheers!

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Tutorial: Jade Bases

Welcome to Painting Jade Bases tutorial. Here I will take you on a Step-by-step trip through the process of painting jade Sci-Fi bases the same way as seen at: Gallery: Aleph S.S.S.

Before we start, some notes:

* This one requires an Airbrush.
* What works for me might not necessarily work for you.
* I used Zen Terrain “Futura” base toppers.

I used:

  • Coal Black (P3),
  • Panzer Dark Grey (Val, air),
  • Turquoise (Val),
  • Light Livery Green (Val, air),
  • Pale Wych Flesh (GW),
  • Waywatcher Green (GW),

Let’s begin!

*  I started by airbrushing a thick layer of Vallejo Panzer Dark Grey.

*  I followed with a layer of P3 Coal Black, mixed with Flow Improover.

*  Next I applied a layers of Vallejo Turquoise, mixed with Flow Improover, but this time made sure to leave some spots of previous layer visible.

*  Using a regular brush I then highlighted all the edges with Vallejo Turquoise.

*  Next I partially higlighted the edges with Games Workshop Pale Wych Flesh.

*  Back to airbruush, I applied a layer of Vallejo Light Livery Green on top of all lower parts of the base.

*  I then washed all recess spots with Games Workshop Waywatcher Green, being careful not to leave stain outside the lower parts of the base.

*  Finally I painted side edges black. Job done.

That’s all! If you followd this tutorial and painted your own bases this way, be sure to leave a comment and drop me some pics via Facebook 😉

Cheers!

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Tutorial: Toxic Sludge Bases

In this easy, step-by-step tutorial I’m going to show you how to create a Toxic Sludge Base. I designed these bases for Warhammer 40,000 Death Guuard Plague Marines.

I USED:

  • Basing Glue,
  • Shoe moist absorbers**
  • Vallejo Interior Green,
  • Vallejo Duuck Egg Green,
  • Vallejo Light Livery Green,

**Where I’m from there’s a small paper bag filled with moist absorbsion balls in every shoe box. If you can’t get that, just use some grains or make small balls out of green stuff or modeling clay.

*  I started by covering entire base with a layer of basing glue.

*  I then put couple of tiny balls onto the base, creating 'buubbles' and let it all dry.

*  Once dry, I covered are around the bubbles with another layer of basing glue.

*  I let it all dry for about an hour, then undercoated entire base black.

*  I then airbrushed a layer of Vallejo Interior Green over entire base.

*  Next I airbrushed a layer of Duck Egg Green concentrating on bubbles and surrounding areas.

*  Last thing to do was to airbrush two layers of Light Livery Green over entire bases and paint the sides black.

 

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Tutorial: Lush Bases

In this easy, step-by-step tutorial I’m going to show you how to create a Lush Base. I designed these bases to fit Infinity the Game Tohaa ‘tactical rocks’ – you can see how it turned out at Infinity TOHAA ‘Witness Me!’ gallery.

I USED:

  • Super Glue,
  • Basing Glue,
  • Stirland Battlemire (GW texture paint),
  • Paint Forge Tufts,
  • Random Tufts,
  • Dried out Grape branch,

*  I started by separating Grape mounts from the dried out Grape branch. Being rather soft, their topf have been removed to improove durability and shape.

*  I then applied a drop of basing glue onto the base, followed up shortly by another drop - this time super glue.

*  Before mixed glue drop was able to dry out I've planted Grape mount on top of it, creating strange looking plant.

*  Once glue dried up I've painted the bases following choosen colour scheme (see below). I then added some texture on top of them with Stirland Battlemire texture paint.

*  orem ipsum dolor sit amet, Integer commodo tristiqu odio, aliquet ut. Maecenas sed justo imperdiet bibendum. Vivamus nec sapien imperdiet diam. Aliquam erat volutpat. Sed onsectetur suscipit nunc et rutrum. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet,volutpat. Sed onsectetur suscipit nunc et rutrum. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, volutpat.

*  Last step was to apply regular tufts. I used some noname tufts in large numbers filling most of the flat areas. Job done.

BONUS COLOUR RECIPE:

:

Black Undercoat,

Stirland Battlemire (GW), texture

Karak Stone (GW), stones & plants

Flayed One Flesh (GW), flatbrush stones & plants

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP), wash

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Tutorial: Lava Bases

In this easy, step-by-step tutorial I’m going to show you how to create and paint a Lava Bases. I used these bases for Infinity the Game Combined Army – you can see how it turned out at Infinity COMBINED ARMY ‘Witness Me!’ gallery.

I USED:

  • Super Glue,
  • Basing Glue,
  • Cork,
  • Shoe moist absorbers**

**Where I’m from there’s a small paper bag filled with moist absorbsion balls in every shoe box. If you can’t get that, just use some grains or make small balls out of green stuff or even modeling clay.

*  I started by breaking a piece of Cork into smaller bitz.

*  I then applied Super Glue over the bases in a random pattern. No need to be precise here.

*  Pieces of Cork followed to form 'volcanic rocks' and future spots for the miniatures to be mounted on.

*  Once Super Glue dried out I covered entire base with Basing Glue.

*  I then dropped tiny balls (shoe moist absorbers) oon top of the Basing Glue, between 'volcanic rocks' to create an effect boiling lava bubbles.

*  Next I applied Basing Glue over the bubbles.

BONUS PAINTING STEP-BY-STEP:

:

*  Black Undercoat.

*  Mahogany (Val) airbrushed all over the base.

*  Gorthror Brown (GW) drybrush over the Rocks.

*  Gory Red (Val) airbrushed over Lava.

*  Scrofulous Brown (Val) airbrushed over Lava.

*  Scrofulous Brown (Val) + White airbrushed over Lava.

*  Black spots added around Rocks

*  Scrofulous Brown (Val) airbrushed over Black spots.

*  Lamenters Yellow (GW) airbrushed over Lava.

*  Hot Orange (Val) spots airbrushed over Black spots, White airbrushed over bubbles.

*  Scrofulous Brown (Val) + Black, then pure Black glaze applied oved the Rocks.

*  Gloss Varnish applied over Lava.

 

 

 

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Tutorial: Corregidor Bases

In this Step-by-Step tutorial I would like to take you on a spin with some Micro Art Studio’s Corregidor Bases. Guys from MAS did a fantastic job painting this product, but I have my own way which I would like to share with you. Buckle up and let’s get to it!

I USED:

* Regular Brush,

* Stippling Brush,

* Black,

* Tin Bitz / Warplock Bronze (GW)

* Eshin Grey (GW),

* Strong Tone Ink (AP),

* Gun Metal (AP),

* Shining Silver (AP),

* Scorched Brown (GW),

* Calthan Brown (GW),

* Ryza Rust (GW),

* Lugganath Orange (GW),

* Flayed One Flesh (GW),

 

!  You can achieve similar results using different paints as long as you followTutorial's basics. For example Eshin Grey (GW) might be switched for Panzer Dark Grey (Val).

1  I started by applying a layer of Eshin Grey (GW) to  all raised areas of the base, over Black undercoat. Just a hint that applying two slightly diluted layers goes much faster and produces a similar result.

2  I then moved to the mesh areas and painted them with Warplock Bronze (GW). Once again this paint might be diluted but this time no need to apply two layers - one will suffice.

3  Once Warplock Bronze dried out, I applied a layer of Gun Metal (AP). For best results I did this with regular brush and using a Flatbrush technique following:

Five Layers Technique – Metal  basis

4  Next Shining Silver (AP) came in. I applied one layer over Gun Metal with regular brush, Flatbrushing.

5  I then applied a wet, thick layer of Strong Tone Ink (AP) over entire base. Once it dried out - I applied another, identical layer. (Picture seem grey'ish - in real life this would look more brown and juicy)

!  orem ipsum dolor sit amet, Integer commodo tristiqu odio, aliquet ut. Maecenas sed justo imperdiet bibendum. Vivamus nec sapien imperdiet diam. Aliquam erat volutpat. Sed onsectetur suscipit nunc et rutrum. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet,volutpat. Sed onsectetur suscipit nunc et rutrum. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, volutpat.

1  Using either a Stippling brush or a well used up large brush I applied stains of Scorched Brown (GW) over all raised areas. Was carefull not to use too much paint.

2  I then drybrushed edges and some large parts of raised areas using Calthan Brown (GW).

3  Next I Stippled some Ryza Rust (GW) on top of previous layer, ensuring to leave some Calthan Brown visible.

4  Same technique, different paint. I stippled Lugganath Orange (GW) on top of Ryza Rust layer, leaving previous layer visible on the sides of the new one.

!  From this layer onward I usually paint over both raised and mesh areas. For the purpose of this Tutorial I left mesh parts clean, but do not be alarmed if you see pictures of my own bases with a less differentiated colour scheme.

5  Flayed one Flesh (GW) followed. This time I Drybrushed over Lugganath Orange layer and then used regular brush to paint thin lines on the edges.

6  Adding a final touch I painted edges smooth Black to add contrast and keep the paint job clean.

That’s it – you have followed me on my short journey from black undercoat to finished Corregidor Bases. Below you will find some examples of finished Corregidor Bases. Each bunch turns out slightly different from the rest. That’s because a slight difference in surface coverage or layer to layer proportion might result in change of how eye can see these bases. Either way – here they are:

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