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Author Archives: Nazroth

“LONE SENTRY” SPECIAL PROJECT

Recently I spent a lot of time working on a ‘Special Project’. I have read/watched tutorials and acquired Know How in a hope of expanding my painting skill. I even visited a friend from Fantasygames Painting Studio to watch and learn. In the end I feel like if I ‘gained a level’. Here is a shortcut of a tremendous amount of hours spent on learning and a week of hard day and night labour:

“LONE SENTRY”

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Infini uber wip 3

Pano king WIP

Pano king WIP 2

PANO KING WIP 1

FINAL RESULT:

b3 31

b3 32

Check out this project’s Gallery…

Special thanks to:

Shizune (Made by Shizune) – for Painting Panoceania Blue Armour Tutorial
C’tan (Fantasygames Painting Studio) – for all the help, know how and this awesome Salt & Hairspray Tutorial

Nazroth

REVIEW: AVP THE HUNT BEGINS

Hey guys! Some of you may find this interresting. Recently I bought a hot stuff: AVP The Hunt Begins boardgame and what I found inside the box forced me to write this review.

About Aliens vs Predator franchise: I personally love AVP. The retro futuristic setting and it’s owerwhelming dark mood keeps my heart burning with desire for more and more AVP stuff to buy. In AVP universe human is reduced to the role of prey. Even tho Colonial Marines are tough bastards equipped with deadly Smartguns and Pulse Rifles they still fall to Alien predation and are no match against masters of the hunt, the Predators. Hunted for sport or means of breeding they must cooperate to survive the inevitable doom.What I find the most important in all AVP products is for them to be based on Aliens (2nd movie) and Predator (1st movie). So we have some armed to the teeth Colonial Marines, being thrown between an angered Aliens hive and dreadful Predator hunters. They try to survive, while their number dwindles slowly. All the time the terror is multiplied, but still badass Marines cheer up the mood with good, oldschool oneliners. This is how I see it. That’s the way I love it.

So when I found out about AVP board/miniature game being released I was extatic! I jumped right onto Kickstarted and was taken aback by the information of who releases it: Prodos Games. After seeing the difference between Prodos’ Warzone Kickstarter and Warzone final products I wasn’t sure if I wanted to spend some cash in advance. I’d held my hand and awaited KS campaign results. After it came to an end Prodos surprised me with an option to buy the game via their site. That was unexpected and bothered me a little so once more I held my hand and didn’t made the purchase. Finally the AVP The Hunt Begins hit the stores and this time, being sure that I will get my copy, I made the purchase.

The box looks amazing and weights a lot so once you will hold it in your hands, you’ll probably buy it 🙂

packed avp
THE BOX: The way with which game elements are packed is mediocre. Cards packed in small paper boxes. Miniatures packed in zip bags. All zip bags packed into a medium cardboard box. A huge foam square glued still to the innards of the box (what the fuck?! Why have you damaged my beautifull box Prodos?). Regardless of the foam my Rulebook was already damaged so this sole fact halted some of my enthusiasm. It was balanced with an easy but clever move with which Prodos prepared Cardboard Sprues to be taken out of the box. A small hole big enough for a finger was cut in the sprues. (Why haven’t I seen anything familiar in other board games – I don’t know, but it’s a nice idea).

packed all

figurka packed total

figurka packed

packed gąbka

wnętrze pudła

packed instrukcja

packed wypraski
MINIATURES: Miniatures are amazingly detailed and kept to the scale. Look at these Colonial Marines. These look amazing!

figurka sm
Still some molding solutions are just idiotic. Take a look at this Alien miniature. It has mold cannals inside it’s hands! I work with miniatures for more than fifteen years now and i’ve rarely seen such stupid way of placing the mold cannals. Some of the hobbysts may have a real problem dealing with these.

figurka alien
And now the worst thing. My Disc Predator was a miscast and looked like this. Yeah Chineese – you fucked up my Predator Miniature and then packed it into my copy of the game. What do you think I feel like right now? This miniature is trash. Instead of painting it and playing the game I placed a complaint to my local store and await a new miniature.

figurka predator
I thought that Prodos Games evolved a bit after Warzone. A lot of mistakes in production process there. As it stands I was wrong – Prodos seems not to learn fast enough.

CARDS: In my opinion Cards are the biggest dissapointment in the whole product. The material with which they are made is bad. Boardgame Cards where made this way like ten years ago. The differences between Prodos Cards and Fantasy Flight Games’s ones are huge. The quality is light years away. Still that’s not the worst thing. The cards lack all the climate that makes AVP what it is. For example: there are not quotes from the movies, no oneliners that built the Alien and Predator franchises. Not a single ‘theme’ motives on the objective cards, even card backs are devoid of thought through theme. These looks like if Prodos Games forced the product at speed and without taking theme and AVP mood into consideration. “Just print the rules”. Here, take a look:

[This looks ok,]

karty all

[These are faction cards and they look ok,]

karty avp przód
These are faction cards backs and I can’t help myself not to wander – where the Fuck are Colonial Marines cards? Was it so difficult to make them look more like card fronts?

karty avp tył
These are Enviromental Cards. Wow Prodos Games – so much climate, so strong AVP theme… How have you planned to build the atmosphere of the game without a plot/story/setting motive?

[Predator and Alien stat cards look nice.]

karty enviroment

karty postacie
And now the worst shit ever: Colonial Marines stat cards look ALL THE SAME! Hey grunts, which one of you is an awesome Smartgunner? Anyone called for a Medic? Really? Couldn’t these be done differently? It’s not that there’s plenty of graphics in the game with not more then a dozen in the Rulebook and half a dozen on the stat cards…

karty sm postacie
And where did all the Marines went gone? I’ve looked through the Rules and there is only a single Colonial Marines picture (well not exactly as it depicts a Weyland Yutani commando) and like two or three  pictures with a Colonial Marine being a background. Prodos seems to forgot about Human species being the epicentre of the AVP theme. Sure I like feel the call of the hunt as a Predator or stalk the dark corridors as the Alien but as a human the faction I feel the most related to is Colonial Marines.

grafika pred 1

grafika avp

grafika alien 3

grafika alien 2

grafika alien 1
grafika sm
CARDBOARD TOKENS: I have mixed feeling about these. The cardboard material is bad still the visual aspect is quite nice. Take a look at this:

wypraska
Looks good doesn’t it? And now let’s do the things Prodos style, with as much minimalism as one may have. Sentry, Hidden, Activated tokens all look like shit. Devoid of climate and pathetic in design. Other tokens look ok but not awe worthy.

żetony małe
[I just can’t understand the reasoning behind designing Acid Damage token to be one sided. It was childishly easy to copy/paste the same graphic to the other side.]

żetony duże

żetony duże tył
THE RULES: The final part of this Revew – the Rules are BAD. I’ve played a lot of games both miniature and boardgames in the past years. I love Space Hulk for it’s simplicity, Rune Wars for many strategies and easy to learn rules, Zombicide, Catwallon: City of Thieves, Super Dungeon Explore, Warhammer 40,000, Infinity, Mordheim and more. All these games are more than playable and rewarding. I find AVP The Hunt Begins rules rather easy but written in such a way that I was forced to jump between the pages and search for some rules all the while these were formed in a way that my Wargaming hardened mind couldn’t comprehend. I understand when Corvus Belli write down Infinity rules like eight years old’s but they are from Spain for fuck’s sake! AVP rules are just unreadable, full of missing letters, idiotic key words and above all – they are totally devoid of flavor. Prodos Guys – just see to Zombicide rulebook and you will know what I mean by climate!

So in the end I give this game a 5 out of 10 and am very, very disapointed in the product I have awaited for so long. If nothing changes in the way Prodos Games design their products I will reconsider not spending my cash on their products anymore. If not for the miniatures – this game would’ve been a stain on the AVP franchise as big as PC Aliens – Colonial Marines was.

And Prodos – this is a 10 out of 10 and it’s a fucking mascot. You we’re owned by a Facehugger mascot! Let it be a warning for you – that purchasing a copyright to a franchise does not mean you can blew all the rest up. You should’ve made sure that your rules and game components would stand to the great AVP franchise and you have failed in that. Shame!

faCEHUGGER
Agree/Disagree? There’s a comment section below where you can stand for your opinion 😉

Nazroth

COLOUR RECIPES: INFINITY ALEPH

Here are some Colour Recipes for Infinity Aleph from GALLERY: ALEPH lvl 4

Myrmidon

BLACK/GREY outfits & weapons:
Black Undercoat,
Dark Sea Grey (Vallejo) airbrushed,
Medium Sea Grey (Vallejo) airbrushed,
Light Grey (Vallejo) airbrushed,
Pale Grey Blue (Vallejo) airbrushed,
White lining,
Dark Tone Ink (AP)
Administratum Grey lining,
White lining,
Black ‘Wash for dark vehicles’ (Vallejo) filling in cavity lines

WHITE:
Pallid Wych Flesh (GW)
Pallid Wych Flesh (GW) + White
White
Black ‘Wash for dark vehicles’ (Vallejo) filling in cavity lines
Gloss Varnish (GW)

Aleph 7

BASES brown
Black Undercoat,
Gorthor Brown (GW)
Karak Stone (GW)
Karak Stone + Pallid Wych Flesh (GW) soft drybrush
A 50%/50% mix of Strong Tone Ink (AP) + Soft Tone Ink (AP)
Strong Tone Ink filling in cavity lines
Pallid Wych Flesh edging
BASES gray
Black Undercoat,
Eshin Grey (GW)
Administratum Grey (GW) soft drybrush

Aleph 8

Follow to ALEPH’S GALLERY…
Nazroth

COLOUR RECIPES: INFINITY YU JING

Here you can find some Colour Recipes for Yu Jing miniatures from GALLERY: INFINITY YU JING

Yu Jing 7

RED:
Grey Undercoat,
Sanguine Base (P3) + Scarlet Red (Vallejo Model Air)
Scarlet Red + Troll Slayer Orange (GW)

Scarlet Red + Troll Slayer Orange+ White (Vallejo Model Air)
Red Tone Ink (AP) here and there x2
Heroes got lined with a mix of Wazdakka Red (GW)Lugganath Orange (GW)

WEAPONS:
Eshin Grey (GW)
Warpfiend Grey (GW)
Warpfiend Grey + Skeleton Bone (AP)

Warpfiend Grey + Skeleton Bone+ White applied from the top
A 50%/50% mix of Strong Tone Ink (AP) + Soft Tone Ink (AP)

BLUE:
Teclis Blue (GW)
Lothern Blue (GW)
Baharroth Blue (GW) fat middle lines
Blue Horror (GW) thin middle lines

PANTS:
Dheneb Stone (GW) foundation
Dheneb Stone + Skeleton Bone (AP)
Dheneb Stone + Skeleton Bone + White
A 50%/50% mix of Strong Tone Ink (AP) + Soft Tone Ink (AP)
Heroes got lined with a mix of Skeleton Bone and Flayed One Flesh (GW)

yu jing wip 2

yu jing wip 3

yu jing wip 5

yu jing wip 6

Yu Jing 9

Nazroth

TUTORIAL: PAINTING NOMAD RED ARMOUR

Here is a Step-by-step guide of how to paint Infinity Nomad Red Armour – Scar_hand Painting’s style 🙂

A complete Recipee used to paint my Infinity Nomads may be found in COLOUR RECIPEES: INFINITY NOMADS. You can also find some additional pictures in the NOMADS: CORREGIDOR lvl 4,5 Gallery.

Colour Recipe:

* GW Standard Brush,
* Tamiya Modeling Brush HG,
* AP Wargamer: The Psycho,
* GW Chaos Black Undercoat,
* GW Mechrite Red, (When this one runs out i’ll switch to P3 Formula ‘Sanguine Base’ instead),
* GW Wazdakka Red,
* AP Skeleton Bone,
* White,
* AP Strong Tone Ink,
* AP Red Tone Ink,

1  I used Chaos Black spray to undercoat the model. I usually do this by applying eight layers of undercoat from eight different angles (four at the front and four at the back of the model, each at the same 45* angle with one directed up, one down, one left and one right side of the model).

2  The first layer of Red was made with Standard Brush and Mechrite Red. I tried not to fill the recesses too much and to cover all buldes smoothly.

red 1

3  I switched to Tamiya Modeling Brush and applied Wazdakka Red to all bulges and flat surfaces of the armour, leaving cavities Mechrite Red'ed. This madethe armour look more smooth and ready to be highlighted.

red 2

4  I applied a 50%/50% mix of Wazdakka Red and Skeleton Bone in the middle and on the edges of particular surfaces.

red 3

5  I added White to the Wazdakka/Skeleton mix and further lined the model.

red 4

6  More White was added to the mix and another layer of lines and points was made.

red 5

7  I switched back to Standard Brush and washed the armour with Strong Tone Ink.

red 6

8  I switched to The Psycho to add some Skeleton Bone/White lining in the key points of the armour.

red 7

9  I switched to Tamiya Modeling Brush and washed the armour with Red Tone Ink.

red 8

9  Oops! I did it again washing all the armour with Red Tone Ink to finally finish it.

red 9

Hope that you find this little tut useful and that you will post some pictures of miniatures painted this way 😉

Nazroth

TUTORIAL: PHALLOSO DREADNOUGHT

Are you a true Warhammer 40k fan? Do you play Space Marines like all grown men? Do you want to dominate the Warhammer 40k tournaments? Do you intend to strike fear with your Space Marines? If the answer is yes then this tutorial is something for you!

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A Dreadnought is the embodiment of Warhammer 40k, Space Marines and Fear. A mighty warrior once fighting in countless battles to finally give his life ‘for the Emperor!’ and spend eternity encased in the cold confines of a Dreadnought carapace. Even among Dreadnoughts there is none mightier and more feared than Phalloso type. Armed with two powerful Dick-shaped close combat weapons the Phalloso strikes fear in the hearts of all enemies, including Necron and Tyranids! There is a saying among the Imperials that ‘to die by the… hands of a Phalloso Dreadnought is to taste fate worse than to be consumed by the Gods of Chaos themselves’

!  BEFORE YOU PROCEED - GO ON AND BUY A DREADNOUGHT!

TUTORIAL: HOW TO MAKE A PHALLOSO DREADNOUGHT

1) Using Citadel Hobby Knife* get inside the box! There’s a Dreadnought waiting to be born!
* Remember to reattach a special protective cover when you’re done. You don’t want to harm yourself!

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2) The box, assembly instruction and transfer sheets are all garbage* for ladylike kids – trash them immediately!

*”But i like the transfer sheets” WHOOOOT?! Stop this tutorial right now and do not – i repeat – DO NOT lay your womanish hands on a sacred plates of a Dreadnought! Go and collect some Eldar!

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3) Using Citadel Plastic Cutters remove two Dreadnought Close Combat Weapon base parts* from the sprues. I know that for a srong man’s hands Plastic Cutters are poor and unnatural tool but one must suffer if one is to create a magnificent work!

*”What about other parts?” Don’t worry, we will get there in time. The most important thing in modelling is to plan your work accordingly!

3

4) We finally got there! From now on all the modelling stuff will get more manworthy! Using Citadel Hobby Vice* cut some Green Stuff into pieces!

*Some poor modellers disregard Citadel Hobby Vice as useless. If someone tells you not to buy one  then he’s modelling skills are probably far below the mediocree level.

4

5) Time for some sculpting. First prepare a Green Stuff ball anr roll it down with Citadel Clean-up Tool*.

*This tool is pretty useless but hey – we’ve just found a use for it!
Now sculpt the D’claws starting with the head and foreskin. The more love you’ll put to it the more fear it will strike in the future.

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6) After gluing the D’claws to the Dreadnought’s forehands place them into the Vice and under a strong light source. Heat will quicken the process of hardening and you will be able to start modelling some ammo clips. Start by chopping more Green Stuff pieces with Citadel Razor Saw and create four balls from it. Polish the balls with Citadel Clean-up Brush so that they shine* nicely.

*This will bring additional terror effect as the light reflected by the balls will imitate that of Emperor’s own halo!

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7) Do you feel your testosterone pumping in your vanes?! LEt it loose by reaping off all the rest of the Dreadnought’s bitz out of sprues. Use man-friendly Citadel Hobby Vice to do it and sing THIS SONG while doing so!

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8) For most of us gluing small bitz together is the worst of all nightmares! It usually ends up with fingers, trousers and literally everything glued together but for the parts intended. Do not falter tho as you can deceive the system and use two* Citaled Hobby Vice to do the work.

*Double the Vice, double the fury, double the MAN POWER!
Remember to drill some with Citadel Hobby Drill. It is not necessary but it’s a lot of fun and your girlrfiend will get into good mood if she sees it.

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9) You now have two mighty weapons for your Phalloso Dreadnought but he still misses one vital part – it’s soul – the Sarcophagus! Do not bother to use a regular hobby file to prepare the front part of the Sarcophagus as it will take forever to make it done. Use the all-powerful Citadel Emery Boards to flatten the surface, then put some Green Stuff on it and sculpt* a nice Cock ornament on it.

*The best tool for the job is the back of Citadel Hobby Saw!

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10) Just add some final touch by futher polishing the Phalloso Dreadnought with Citadel Clean-up Brush. Remember that every minute devoted to the task will earn you advantage in future battles!

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11) It’s finally done! The Phalloso Dreadnought is ready for battle and you can rest assured that it’ll scare the hell out of your opponents! You can sip some pure whiskey out of Citadel Brush Cup while admiring your work…

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Zapisz

Nazroth

TUTORIAL: CONCRETE BASES part 2: Painting

Here is the painting guide for my Infinity Concrete bases.

Each painter has his own ways to paint metal and any gadgets that would be put on a base so i will only describe how to obtain browny-rusty-edged effect of the main body of the base.

I USED:

* Games Workshop Large/Medium Drybrush
* Basecoat Brush,
* GW Adeptus Battlegray (foundation),
* GW Devlan Mud (wash) / Army Painter Sttrong Tone (ink), do not use GW Agrax Earthshade – it sucks!
* GW Scorched Brown,
* GW Calthan Brown (foundation),
* GW Ryza Rust (dry),
* GW Lugganath Orange (edge),
* GW Flayed One flesh (edge),

1  I assume that the base was undercoated with black colour. Apply Adeptus Battlegray using Basecoat Brush. Do it twice if necessary so that grey layer covers black undercoat completely.

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2  Use wash brush, or any soft hairs brush to paint whole base with Devlan Mud (or AP's Strong Tone). Once again i will recommend to do it a second time once the first layer is dry. More stains and blobs of paint - the better.

2

3  Apply Scorched Brown onto most accessible spaces using Large Dry Brush. Do it with stippling technique (brush is held upright and pressed mutliple times onto the base at 90* angle).

3

4  Apply Calthan Brown using the same brush and technique but try to cover less space than before so that you will be able to see some Scorched Brown stains through Calthan Brown layer.

4

5  Now it's time for Ryza Rust, once more same brush, technique and try to cover less space, but this time you may cross the border of Scroched Brown - it won't do much harm.

5

6  And yet again: same brush, technique and try to cover less space but this time use Lugganath Orange. Be aware as this colour has less pigment than Calthan Brown or Ryza Rust. I'll recommend that you dry your brush with paint on it before stippling.

6

7  This is the last layech of stippling: use Large Dry Brush and the stippling technique to apply Flayed One Flesh. After that just highlight some edges with Flayed One Flesh and the work is done.

Nomad Moran 1

The bases i used for this painting guide are just some flat bitz of plasticard so the effect is not the same with bases of my Miniatures. You will see the difference when painting pre-modelled bases with lots of bitz, uneven surface and rants painted black which will bring some contrast to the colour scheme in the end. Hope you find this tutorial helpful and interesting.

Be sure to check out another part of this tutorial at: INFINITY CONCRETE BASES TUTORIAL part 1: Modelling

Zapisz

Nazroth

TUTORIAL: CONCRETE BASES part 1: Modelling

Ever wanted to make some cool looking bases for your Infinity models? Here’s a tutorial of how to do it 🙂

I USED:

*Round bases,
*Plastticard,
*Some SF bitz,
*Modelling Knife, File, Sculpting Tool and glue,

Instead of SF bitz you can use literally anything including toothpick, brass mesh, pieces of computer, irregular pieces of plastic etc.

p1

1  Attach some bitz onto the bases using Super glue. You don't have to fit these bitz ideally, just place them so that they create a nice composition with the rest of the base.

p2

2  Now glue some small pieces of plasticard around the bitz. Try not to use too much glue as it may spill onto the edge of the base. If need be you may want to prepare plastticard pieces to ideally fit around bitz you've used.

p3

3  Use sharp modelling knife to delicatelly cut off all the excessive plasticard. Use the edge of the base to guide the knife's cutting edge.

p4

4  Here's how the effect of your work should look like:

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5  It is a good idea to further smooth the edges using knife so they will be easier to file later on.

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6  Now it is time to get rid of protruding bitz. The quickest way to do it is to use plastic cutters.

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7  Next step is to file the edges of both plastic bitz and plasticard.

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8  The work is almost at an end. The bases will look much better with some facture added to them. Use a sculpting tool or other similar object to carve some futuristic straight lines and bolt holes.

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9  You can easily add some battle damage. Just embed the modelling knife in the edge of the base and then pull it up to rend some plasticard chunks out of it.

p11

That is all – you’ve just made a SF, battle damaged base for yourself.

p12

End Result:

Nomad Moran 1

Be sure to check out another part of this tutorial at: CONCRETE BASES TUTORIAL part 2: Painting
Nazroth