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Tag Archive Necromunda

Colour Recipes: Warhammer 40,000 Genestealer Cult

Here are some Colour Recipes for Infinity Haqqislam from GALLERY: GENESTEALER CULTS. Please take note that this is a simple colour scheme, not covering multiple overlapping layers and blends in between, that lead to the final product. It is supposed to be used as guideline not a step-by-step.

BLUE armor:

Black Undercoat,

Imperial Blue (val),*

Mix: Imperial Blue (val) 4:1 Electric Blue (val),*

Electric Blue (val),*

Mix: Electric Blue (val) 1:3 White,*

Blue Tone Ink (ap),

Pallid Wych Flesh (gw), l&p

Off White (val), l&p


METAL:

Warplock Bronze (gw),

Gun Metal (ap), / True Copper (ap), flbr

Shining Silver (ap), l&p

Mix: Strong Tone Ink (ap) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (ap),

Streaking Grime (ak int),

PURPLE skin:

Black Undercoat,

Alien Purple (val),

Mix: Alien Purple (val) 2:1 Squid Pink (val), flbr

Mix: Alien Purple (val) 1:1:1 Squid Pink (val), Pale Flesh (val), flbr

Purple Tone Ink (ap),

Pallid Wych Flesh (gw), l&p

Off White (val), l&p


SKIN:

Alien Purple (val a),

Dwarf Skin (val a), flbr

Flesh (val a), flbr

Mix: Purple Tone Ink (ap) 1:1:1:1, Strong Tone Ink (ap), Soft Tone Ink (ap), Medium,

BLACK/GREY outfits:

Black Undercoat,

Panzer Dark Grey (val),

Cold Grey (val), flbr

Fenrisian Grey (gw), flbr

Pallid Wych Flesh (gw), l&p

Mix Strong Tone Ink (ap) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (ap),

Pallid Wych Flesh (GW), l&p

Off White (Val), l&p


BROWN clothes:

Grey Outfits base,

Dark Brown RLM61 (val), bl

Mix Strong Tone Ink (ap) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (ap),

Karak Stone (gw), l&p

Flayed One Flesh (gw), l&p


GREEN light:

Duck Egg Green (val a),

Off White (val), l&p

Light Livery Green (val a),*

Waywatcher Green (gw), wash

Off White (val), l&p

l&p – lines and points,

p – points,

dl – deep lining,

bl – blend,

gl – glaze,

drbr – drybrush,

fltbr – flatbrush,

lobr – loaded brush,

stpl – stippling,

*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)

Colour Recipes: Necromunda Underhive Scenery

Here are some Colour Recipes for Necromunda scenery pieces from GALLERY: NECROMUNDA UNDERHIVE. Please take note that this is a simple colour scheme, not covering multiple overlapping layers and blends inbetween, that lead to the final product. It is supposed to be used as guidline not a step-by-step.

METAL:

Black Undercoat,

Warplock Bronze (GW), *

Gun Metal (AP),

Shining Silver (AP),

Strong Tone Ink (AP),

Shining Silver (AP), l&p

Streaking Grime (AK),

ORANGE’ish elements:

Black Undercoat,

Cavalry Brown (Val), *

Orange Brown (Val), *

Strong Tone Ink (AP),

Orange Brown (Val), stpl

Lugganath Orange (GW), l&p

Streaking Grime (AK), GREEN lights:

Duck Egg Green (Val), *

Light Livery Green (Val), *

Waywatcher Green (GW),

Off White (Val), l&p

l&p – lines and points,

p – points,

b – blend,

drbr – drybrush,

flbr – flatbrush,

stpl – stippling,

*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)

Tutorial: Upgrading Necromunda Bases

Necromunda: Underhive is a game full of nicely detailed plastic miniatures. As much as I hate endorsing Games Workshop – It should be mentioned that in terms of miniatures – they did a really nice job, extending the set so that it includes 25 industrial themed plastic bases. I appreciate this move from GW, even tho the variety of Necromunda bases designs is scarce. For example my own set came with just two versions among a total of ten bases. This is where I come in with a Tutorial on how to Enchance Necromunda bases in a fast, simple way. Below you will find few ideas on how to do it – but let me say this in advance: keep an open mind cause there’s plenty of awesome stuff that can be used to differentiate your Necromunda bases set (and actually any Industrial bases).

I USED:

  • Hobby Knife,
  • Scissors,
  • Plastic Cutter,
  • Hobby Drill,
  • Super Glue,
  • Brass Mesh,
  • Brass Chain,
  • PCV,
  • Games Workshop bitz,
  • Games Workshop skulls,
  • Astrogranite Debris Texture Paint,

BRASS MESH:

This stuff can be found in most modellers hobby stores. Personally I love it, cause it let’s me add awesome texture to the bases. It is very easy to use. I tend to cut a piece of mesh with scissors and glue it onto a designated surface, leaving an excess to hang outside the base. Once Super Glue dries out I just cut the excess mesh with scissors and file it on the edge – driving a file from top to bottom of the bases edge. This keeps the mesh glued onto the base, but smoothers the edge nicely.

BRASS CHAIN:

Another item from a hobby store. I just glue it onto the base and cut the excess with plastic cutters. Brass Chain is thin and rather frail so it does not damage the cutters.

PCV:

Awesome, hobby friendly and easy to use material. It comes in either flat sheets of different thickness, or in prefabricated shapes. For bases I usually use flat sheets, gluing them onto the base, then cutting to fit the edge. In case of Necromunda bases – there’s plenty of industrial texture already, so I uused a prefabricated piece of PCV to add here and there. Same technique – glue onto the base, then cut to match the edge.

GW BITZ:

Everybody has some. For Necromunda bases I preffered thin, long spears and banner poles. I just glued them over certain areas and cut with a plastic cutters to match the edge of the base and add variety to the base’s surface.

SKULLS:

Games Workshop’s Skulls set is something that everyone should get. If you haven’t got yours – damn – just go and order one. For what you get the price is just insane. Either way – some Skulls on the base would certainly make it stand out.

ASTROGRANITE DEBRIS:

Actually any grain-texture paint would do just fine. I used Astrogranit Debris cause I don’t have many uses for this particular colour and here it is meant to go under a black undercoat anyway. I applied small amount to certain places, just to add texture.

HOBBY DRILL:

I drilled some holes in different sizes here and there to look like corrosion or some form of acid damage. Easy to do – looks cool once painted.

So, there’s that. These are just few ways to enchance Necromunda bases. I bet you can find a lot more ways to differentiate the set. Here’s how mine looks like after the above additions:

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