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Here are some Colour Recipes for Infinity Haqqislam from GALLERY: GENESTEALER CULTS. Please take note that this is a simple colour scheme, not covering multiple overlapping layers and blends in between, that lead to the final product. It is supposed to be used as guideline not a step-by-step.
BLUE armor:
Black Undercoat,
Imperial Blue (val),*
Mix: Imperial Blue (val) 4:1 Electric Blue (val),*
Electric Blue (val),*
Mix: Electric Blue (val) 1:3 White,*
Blue Tone Ink (ap),
Pallid Wych Flesh (gw), l&p
Off White (val), l&p
METAL:
Warplock Bronze (gw),
Gun Metal (ap), / True Copper (ap), flbr
Shining Silver (ap), l&p
Mix: Strong Tone Ink (ap) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (ap),
Streaking Grime (ak int),
PURPLE skin:
Black Undercoat,
Alien Purple (val),
Mix: Alien Purple (val) 2:1 Squid Pink (val), flbr
Mix: Alien Purple (val) 1:1:1 Squid Pink (val), Pale Flesh (val), flbr
Purple Tone Ink (ap),
Pallid Wych Flesh (gw), l&p
Off White (val), l&p
SKIN:
Alien Purple (val a),
Dwarf Skin (val a), flbr
Flesh (val a), flbr
Mix: Purple Tone Ink (ap) 1:1:1:1, Strong Tone Ink (ap), Soft Tone Ink (ap), Medium,
BLACK/GREY outfits:
Black Undercoat,
Panzer Dark Grey (val),
Cold Grey (val), flbr
Fenrisian Grey (gw), flbr
Pallid Wych Flesh (gw), l&p
Mix Strong Tone Ink (ap) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (ap),
Pallid Wych Flesh (GW), l&p
Off White (Val), l&p
BROWN clothes:
Grey Outfits base,
Dark Brown RLM61 (val), bl
Mix Strong Tone Ink (ap) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (ap),
Karak Stone (gw), l&p
Flayed One Flesh (gw), l&p
GREEN light:
Duck Egg Green (val a),
Off White (val), l&p
Light Livery Green (val a),*
Waywatcher Green (gw), wash
Off White (val), l&p
l&p – lines and points,
p – points,
dl – deep lining,
bl – blend,
gl – glaze,
drbr – drybrush,
fltbr – flatbrush,
lobr – loaded brush,
stpl – stippling,
*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)
Here are some Colour Recipes for Necromunda scenery pieces from GALLERY: NECROMUNDA UNDERHIVE. Please take note that this is a simple colour scheme, not covering multiple overlapping layers and blends inbetween, that lead to the final product. It is supposed to be used as guidline not a step-by-step.
METAL:
Black Undercoat,
Warplock Bronze (GW), *
Gun Metal (AP),
Shining Silver (AP),
Strong Tone Ink (AP),
Shining Silver (AP), l&p
Streaking Grime (AK),
ORANGE’ish elements:
Black Undercoat,
Cavalry Brown (Val), *
Orange Brown (Val), *
Strong Tone Ink (AP),
Orange Brown (Val), stpl
Lugganath Orange (GW), l&p
Streaking Grime (AK), 
GREEN lights:
Duck Egg Green (Val), *
Light Livery Green (Val), *
Waywatcher Green (GW),
Off White (Val), l&p
l&p – lines and points,
p – points,
b – blend,
drbr – drybrush,
flbr – flatbrush,
stpl – stippling,
*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)
Necromunda: Underhive is a game full of nicely detailed plastic miniatures. As much as I hate endorsing Games Workshop – It should be mentioned that in terms of miniatures – they did a really nice job, extending the set so that it includes 25 industrial themed plastic bases. I appreciate this move from GW, even tho the variety of Necromunda bases designs is scarce. For example my own set came with just two versions among a total of ten bases. This is where I come in with a Tutorial on how to Enchance Necromunda bases in a fast, simple way. Below you will find few ideas on how to do it – but let me say this in advance: keep an open mind cause there’s plenty of awesome stuff that can be used to differentiate your Necromunda bases set (and actually any Industrial bases).
This stuff can be found in most modellers hobby stores. Personally I love it, cause it let’s me add awesome texture to the bases. It is very easy to use. I tend to cut a piece of mesh with scissors and glue it onto a designated surface, leaving an excess to hang outside the base. Once Super Glue dries out I just cut the excess mesh with scissors and file it on the edge – driving a file from top to bottom of the bases edge. This keeps the mesh glued onto the base, but smoothers the edge nicely.
Another item from a hobby store. I just glue it onto the base and cut the excess with plastic cutters. Brass Chain is thin and rather frail so it does not damage the cutters.
Awesome, hobby friendly and easy to use material. It comes in either flat sheets of different thickness, or in prefabricated shapes. For bases I usually use flat sheets, gluing them onto the base, then cutting to fit the edge. In case of Necromunda bases – there’s plenty of industrial texture already, so I uused a prefabricated piece of PCV to add here and there. Same technique – glue onto the base, then cut to match the edge.
Everybody has some. For Necromunda bases I preffered thin, long spears and banner poles. I just glued them over certain areas and cut with a plastic cutters to match the edge of the base and add variety to the base’s surface.
Games Workshop’s Skulls set is something that everyone should get. If you haven’t got yours – damn – just go and order one. For what you get the price is just insane. Either way – some Skulls on the base would certainly make it stand out.
Actually any grain-texture paint would do just fine. I used Astrogranit Debris cause I don’t have many uses for this particular colour and here it is meant to go under a black undercoat anyway. I applied small amount to certain places, just to add texture.
I drilled some holes in different sizes here and there to look like corrosion or some form of acid damage. Easy to do – looks cool once painted.
So, there’s that. These are just few ways to enchance Necromunda bases. I bet you can find a lot more ways to differentiate the set. Here’s how mine looks like after the above additions:
