- contact@scarhandpainting.com
Here are some Colour Recipes for Aleph from Gallery: Infinity Aleph S.S.S. lvl 4. Please take note that this is a simple colour scheme, not covering multiple overlapping layers and blends in between, that lead to the final product. It is supposed to be used as guideline not a step-by-step.
BLACK/GREY armour & weapons:
Black Undercoat,
Panzer Dark Grey (Val),*
Fenrisian Grey (GW), l&p
Pallid Wych Flesh (GW), l&p
Dark Tone Ink (AP),
Pallid Wych Flesh (GW), l&p
PURPLE skin:
Warpfiend Grey (GW),
Slaanesh Grey (GW),
Mix Purple Tone Ink (AP) 2:1:1 Strong Tone Ink (AP), Medium,
Slaanesh Grey (GW), l&p
Mix Slaanesh Grey (GW) 1:1 Pale Wych Flesh (GW), l&p
CREAM armour:
Mix Wolf Grey (Val) 1:1 Fenrisian Grey (GW),
Ghost Grey (Val),
Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1:1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP), Flow Improover, Medium,
Off White (Val), l&p
PURPLE armour:
Hexen Lichen (Val),
Genestealer Purple (GW), flbr
Dechala Lilac (GW), l&p
Purple Tone Ink (AP),
Dechala Lilac (GW), l&p
Pale Wych Flesh (GW), l&p
l&p – lines and points,
p – points,
bl – blend,
gl – glaze,
drbr – drybrush,
flbr – flatbrush,
stpl – stippling,
*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)
Welcome to Painting Jade Bases tutorial. Here I will take you on a Step-by-step trip through the process of painting jade Sci-Fi bases the same way as seen at: Gallery: Aleph S.S.S.
Before we start, some notes:
* This one requires an Airbrush.
* What works for me might not necessarily work for you.
* I used Zen Terrain “Futura” base toppers.
* I started by airbrushing a thick layer of Vallejo Panzer Dark Grey.
* I followed with a layer of P3 Coal Black, mixed with Flow Improover.
* Next I applied a layers of Vallejo Turquoise, mixed with Flow Improover, but this time made sure to leave some spots of previous layer visible.
* Using a regular brush I then highlighted all the edges with Vallejo Turquoise.
* Next I partially higlighted the edges with Games Workshop Pale Wych Flesh.
* Back to airbruush, I applied a layer of Vallejo Light Livery Green on top of all lower parts of the base.
* I then washed all recess spots with Games Workshop Waywatcher Green, being careful not to leave stain outside the lower parts of the base.
* Finally I painted side edges black. Job done.
That’s all! If you followd this tutorial and painted your own bases this way, be sure to leave a comment and drop me some pics via Facebook 😉
Cheers!
Airbrush blow, Airbrush blow
Add the flow
Mix the paint in the cup bady di-di-di-ding
TKO, comatose adios
Slow motion on you muddafuckah (Booyah!)
Super man, airbrush gun
Make ’em fun
Paint ’em down with the wicky-wicky, wa-wa-wa-wash
Automatic now ya minis looking supapainted
Paint splattered, when I hit ya with the “Booyah”
Good brush get the cash get the ching, ching
Get the gold, get the green, get the pin-pin-pin-pink
Get the purple, get the flesh, get the brown
Ten hundred, minis, baby get that (Booyah!)
Passing time, passing time
On the brain, on the mental
Got minis on my mah-mah-mah-mind
Make ’em stop, painting time
Painting time, keep on painting…
Twelve months, dozens of finished projects and hundreds of painted miniatures have happened since last anniversary. Here I am, yet again, delving into past year, assessing progress and boring you to death. Woo hoo!
Scarhandpainting.com visit score is closing to 500000. That’s just insane! When I started this journey about three years ago I never imagined the site might get that popular. Even though the site itself is not meant to generate any income, I’m very happy to have this platform, through which I can share my passion for painting miniatures with all of you. I appreciate all the positive feedback and your e-mails. This means a lot to me.
I know that lately blog section was a bit neglected. As some of you already know, last few months were a bumpy road for me for couple reasons. I moved out to yet another place. On top of that there’s also less projects than it used to. On the bright side I use my spare time to settle in a new place, set up brand new workshop, redesign some parts of the website. Less projects does not mean I sit here looking at the ceiling. I just don’t have much material for tutorials. Things should get back to normal soon and I look forward to start blogging vigorously once again.
Previous year was spread across wide range of projects. A mix of fantasy/sci-fi from entire spectrum of games and ranges. This time with scarhandpainting.com growing popularity among Infinity the game community I spent most of the year painting my favorite game of all time. Alongside Infinity there’s also a lot of Shadespire. Yup, thanks to a commission for a friend, I got into the game myself. Oh cruel fate of a miniatures painter 🙂 Below you will find some of the highlights from the last twelve months. Be sure to let me know which ones you find the most interresting in the comment section or at my facebook.
Looking back I can’t help but feel excited for all the cool projects I worked with. All the challenges, uncommon colour schemes. Considering skill progress I think I’ve made some. Opportunity to paint on higher levels plus moving my palette away from GW and into the colorful embrace of Vallejo brought many new possibilities. I’m very happy with results and hope they can be seen.
As usual, I would like to thank all of my friendstomers, for the support and trust. I wish you many exciting projects to come.
Special thanks to Andreas, Thomas, Bettina, Romana, Clemens, Behemoth and all friends who stick with me for good 😉 My hobby wouldn’t be the same without you.
39 new articles showed up since previous anniversary. These are the ones you found to be the most interresting…
TUTORIAL: INFINITY ‘DO IT YOURSELF’ GAMING TERRAIN
“SHADEGLASS SCENERY” SPECIAL PROJECT
TUTORIAL: ENHANCING NECROMUNDA BASES
…and some long term favorites:
TUTORIAL: INFINITY DIY CONSOLE
TUTORIAL: PAINTING MICRO ART STUDIO CONCRETE WALLS
COLOUR RECIPES: INFINITY USARF
I stand on the precipice with another happy year of hobbying behind my back. What lays before me is an unknown but I cross the threshold with excitement and confidence. Surrounded by friends, armed to the teeth with Vallejo paints, Airbrushes in both hands – I’m ready for everything 2019 is gonna throw my way!
In this easy, step-by-step tutorial I’m going to show you how to create a Desert Scenery as could be found in “Gallery: Gaslands”.
* I started by cutting foamed PCV (or styrofoam) into basic rocky blocks.
* I then used lighter to gently heat blocks on the sides, avoiding heating up top and bottom surfaces.
* Next, using a hobby knife, I cut bases from 3mm thick plasticard.
* I then glued rocky blocks on top of the bases with basing (PVA) glue. I also glued some blocks on top of one another for the scenery to look more diverse and interresting.
* Next I crumbled a sheet of cork into small pieces and glued them on top of the blocks with basing glue, sanding them before glue dried out to fill the gaps inbetween separate cork pieces.
* I then used plaster (gypsum) to build a gentle transition between bases and blocks.
* A time has come for me to add some detail. Not much, just some texture to bring more life to the wasteland. I cut pieces of plasticard and used toothpicks, MDF leftovers and a toy car to create ragtag barricades and post-apo racing signs.
* Lastly, with a regular brush, I applied basing glue then sanded all the plaster, sides of the bases and some areas around cork pieces on top of the blocks.
Couple of hours later I have painted this stuff and added some tuftsthe end result looks like this:
Welcome to Painting Infinity Daofei Camo tutorial. Here I will take you on a Step-by-step trip through the process of painting Daofei Camo the same way as seen at: Gallery: Yu-Jing.
Before we start, some notes:
* This one requires no Airbrush.
* For better visibility there are two different sizes of the pattern.
* What works for me might not necessarily work for you.
* Start by applying a smooth layer of P3 Bastion Grey.
* Create basic pattern, applying Pale Wych Flesh spots leaving similar sized gaps inbetween .
* Next apply Panzer Dark Grey spots between Pale Wych Flesh, so that every new spot touches at least one from the previous layer.
* Follow up with a third layer of pattern, using Interior Green and following the same rules. Be sure to leave some spots of Bastion Grey visible.
* Lastly add tiny spots of Panzer Dark Grey on top of Pale Wych Flesh pattern. Some might touch the edges.
That’s it, you have painted the pattern. Congrats! Be sure to visit Infinity Yu-Jing gallery for further inspiration if need be 😉
Welcome to Painting “Guijia” tutorial. Here I will take you on a Step-by-step trip through almost entire process of painting Infinity the Game “Guijia” Special Project.
Before we start, some notes:
* This one requires an Airbrush.
* Paints are to be properly thinned before airbrush application.
* As usual, please take note that what works for me might not necessarily work for you.
Allright! Undercoat the miniature with black, check your gear and let’s do this!
* Start with a solid layer of airbrushed Val. Orange Brown. I applied mine in three delicate, overlaping layers. I went around the miniature, with top and bottom, focusing on Armor Plates areas.
* Next, airbrush Val. Scrofulous Brown. Mostly from the top and up to 45* degree, focusing on the most exposed areas. You can start building transitions to previous layer avoiding shadowed areas.
* I forgot to take a picture of this layer. That's on me. Fortunatelly the result can be seen on the next picture. The layer is a mix of Val. Scrofulous Brown and Val. Off White, applied from top onto the center of all exposed areas.
* Next, outline all the edges with Val. Ice Yellow
* Lastly, underline armor plates with Army Painter Soft Tone Ink. I also used strongly dilluted Soft Tone to apply some more shadow in certain 'over the edge' areas.
* This is the most difficult part of the process. Mix Val. Black (air) 1:5 with Val. Panzer Dark Grey (air) and apply it to everything, that is not external armour plates and blade. The difficult part is to not mess up all these sexy Orange-to-Yellow armour plates. If you do, you can try out Erasing Bloopers following one of my tutorials, still the airbrushed nature of the layer will make it extremely difficult.
* Next apply a watered down GW Fenrisian Grey over black areas. It is important not to fill any recesses. You can apply more than one thin layer, overlaping each other and even leave some irregularities - this will work to the overall paint job's advantage.
* Next, higlight edges with GW Pale Wych Flesh. This time no thinning down the paint. You can imitate some scratches, reflexions etc.
* Now wash it all with a thinned down Army Painter Dark Tone Ink. Once again be extra carefuul not to paint over finished armour plates.
* Now it's time to make it POP! Using GW Pale Wych Flesh and Val. Off White, highlight the edges and create some points of focus, scratches, reflections etc.
* Start by masking the Guijia's leg. I used a piece of foil and masking tape to cover areas that I didn;t wanted to get dirty. Then manually applu a layer of Val. Prussian Blue, avoiding areas of Black Mesh.
* Next airbrush a layer of Light Sea Blue, focusing on the most exposed areas of armour.
* Next, airbrush a mix of Val. Light Sea Blue with a bit of Val. White focusing on middle areas, creating a transition from previous layer.
* Next highlight the edges with GW Pale Wych Flesh.
* To seal Blue, wash it with thinned down GW Guilliman Blue Glaze. You can see that I have also painted some battle damage. I did it using Val. Cavalry Brown, underlined with Val. Off White.
I leave adding Black Under Armour and additional details to you. Now to the Sword… To be honest, because of strong light, pictures taken during this one’s painting process did not captured how the sword looked like and I really don’t like how they turned out. That being said – I will still show you the Sword and name the paints used, but instead of a Step-by-step tutorial, let’s just call it a BONUS.
List of paints:
Val. Warlord Purple,
Val. Off white,
GW. Pale Wych Flesh,
AP. Purple Tone Ink,
I leave the base and additional detail to you. Congratulations, you have painted a Guijia 🙂
Was this tutorial helpful? Did you enjoyed it? Leave me a comment 😉
I hope you find this tutorial interesting. Be sure to let me know your thoughts in the comments below or via Facebook or Instagram. I would also appreciate if you considered sharing this content with your friends, who might find it useful. Finally if you are looking for a professional miniatures painting service be sure to contact me with this contact form. I always reply within 24 hours, after which please check out your spam folder.
In this easy, step-by-step tutorial I’m going to show you how to create a Toxic Sludge Base. I designed these bases for Warhammer 40,000 Death Guuard Plague Marines.
**Where I’m from there’s a small paper bag filled with moist absorbsion balls in every shoe box. If you can’t get that, just use some grains or make small balls out of green stuff or modeling clay.
* I started by covering entire base with a layer of basing glue.
* I then put couple of tiny balls onto the base, creating 'buubbles' and let it all dry.
* Once dry, I covered are around the bubbles with another layer of basing glue.
* I let it all dry for about an hour, then undercoated entire base black.
* I then airbrushed a layer of Vallejo Interior Green over entire base.
* Next I airbrushed a layer of Duck Egg Green concentrating on bubbles and surrounding areas.
* Last thing to do was to airbrush two layers of Light Livery Green over entire bases and paint the sides black.
In this easy, step-by-step tutorial I’m going to show you how to create a Seed-Embryo marker, same as from Infinity SHASVASTII lvl 5 ‘Witness Me!’ gallery.
* I started by straightening two office clips, leaving both ends curved.
* I then wraped them around one another and once done, cut a piece with hobby cutters.
* Next I applied a drop of basing glue, followed by a drop of super glue onto a base.
* Then I glued wraped up office clip piece on top of the super glue spot.
* Airsoft gun ammo ball followed, on top of the office clip piece. First a drop of super glue, then basing glue, then I slightly dipped the ball in super glue and glued it on.
* Lastly I modelled three growth pieces on top of the ball, applying a small dose of basing glue with a tootpick, then covering it with super glue.
And that’s it! The Seed-Embryo markers ready in few minutes. Just make sure you let them dry before painting – I recommend about 4 hours for super glue – basing glue mix to fully dry out and produce awesome texture.
Do you like this tutorial? Have you made your own Seed-Embryo markers? Be sure to let me know in the commets below!
Alright, so you decided to start with an airbrush. You’ve made some reconnaissance, picked an airbrush and compressor and the only question that stands between you and a lifetime of successful airbrushing is “what else do I need to start?”. This very question was asked to me a lot since I myself started airbrushing. It might be about time to turn the answer into a short article, in hope to support all the beginner hobbyists out there…
Assuming you’ve already picked an airbrush and a compressor, there’s still a list of items you should get before you’ll be able to start airbrushing. Let’s dive head on into the list of necessary items…
Air hose is used to link the airbrush with compressor. When picking an air hose it is important to check which models of airbrush / compressors it’s fitting is compatible with. The easiest way is to simply contact a store and ask them to recommend an air hose compatible with types of fitting of your airbrush / compressor.
In case your airbrush has different type of fitting than the compressor, you will also require an Adapter, or a Multi Way Valve Assembly with a proper type of connection. Take a look at E-Bay to see how many different types of fitting there are…
A filter equipped spray out airbrush pot and an airbrush holder (preferably 2 in 1 like below) are also necessary. Thanks to these you will have an option to rest the airbrush on a holder in-between different activities (like mixing paints, or even resting for a bit). Spray out airbrush pot will also keep the majority of paint waste contained in an easy to clean glass pot.
You will use these too clean up the insides of your airbrush.
You will use this tool to clean up the nozzle. When picking one, make sure it is recommended for the type of nozzle of your airbrush. Too large tool may damage the nozzle from the inside.
Example: ALDER tool (top) damages H&S nozzles! H&S tool (bottom) is perfect for H&S nozzles
You will use this duo to remove the excess paint from your airbrush without the need to spray it all out.
Airbrush Cleaner, Airbrush Thinner and Airbrush Flow Improver – these three liquids are a must have.
Below are some additional items that while not necessary, will come in handy once you start airbrushing your way to hobby glory.
Unless you’re ok with lung damage, wearing a proper mask while airbrushing, is in order. With this one it is recommended to aim high, pick a high quality tool with strong filters – better safe than sorry.
Protective latex gloves, while not essential, will help you keep your skin clean and healthy. Extensive airbrushing might lead to skin getting dry and irritated.
Airbrush needle is very delicate. A vast majority of beginners damage the needle during first few days of airbrush adventure. I advise you to get a spare needle outright, just in case.
Long hair, medium size, round brush to remove excess paint from the tip of the needle without the need to dismantle entire airbrush.
You might use these to mix paints before pouring them into the cup on top of an airbrush to avoid clods of paint to get inside.
Not really an essential, but a very useful tool to help you with avoiding overlapping paint on some areas.
This can be anything between an original painting holder and a sole small cup with a ball of Blu Tack mounted on the underside. Such tool will let you airbrush without fear of messing up the paint job with your fingers. Plus it is just a very comfortable way of painting miniatures.
Obviously you will require paints. It is not necessary to get any type of special airbrush paints. Thanks to Flow Improver and Thinner regular paints will do, but that’s a story for another article. Personally I wholeheartedly recommend Vallejo Air series as I find them ready to use straight out of bottle.
Can be a durable and water proof piece such as this Hobby Zone’s Protective Apron, or just a regular kitchen apron – all to improve the survivability of your regular clothes. One slipup and your pants are off of the streets – unless you have an additional layer of protection…
Lastly a high end airbrush cleaning tool that, although not necessary, will greatly improve your quality of life. Cleaning an airbrush with an ultrasonic cleaner is fast and easy, but most importantly very precise. The procedure can sometimes bring your trusted ‘paint pistol’ back from the verge of malfunction. End game purchase for high end airbrush users imo.
Thanks for reading. If you think I skipped a necessary or useful item that a beginner airbrush users should get, let me know in the comments section or via Facebook or Instagram. I would also appreciate if you considered sharing this content with your friends, who might find it useful. Finally if you are looking for a professional miniatures painting service, be sure to contact me with this contact form. I always reply within 24 hours, after which please check out your spam folder.
During my long hobby journey I worked with a lot of HDF laser cut terrain. Many projects I was engaged with were not limited to products of a single company, thus I will speak from experience when I tell you that practically all HDF laser cut terrain shares a single flaw: Laser cut edges are scorched and that leads to the edge surface not being suitable for light color undercoat. Below I will show you a simple way to prepare HDF scenery for light color undercoat.
I picked Vallejo Desert Tan Surface Primer for two reasons. First it is a light, sandy color – compatible with light colors that I will be using afterwards, when trying to achieve a smooth white color of the scenery piece. Secondly, due to the paint being Acrylic-Poliurethane mix, which makes it fill any irregularities in the surface and still dry out into a solid, smooth layer.
* Step one: I mixed Desert Tan paint 3:1 with water to make it easier to apply.
* Step two: I applied the mix onto the HDF edge surfaces with an old, large brush.
* Step three: I removed the excess paint from the sides of the HDF and applied it to the largest edge areas.
Once dried up, it looked like this. Kind of messy, but it totally disappears after proper undercoat, leaving both the edges and the sides smooth…
Here’s the same piece after one layer of Vallejo Desert Tan airbrushed all over it. Smooth…
And examples of finished scenery…
Hope this one is helpful. If you have your own methods of preparing HDF before undercoating – please drop me an e-mail at contact@scarhandpainting.com – I would love to learn new hobby stuff 🙂
