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Are you hungry for spilled paint? Ripped hair, broken handles? Another fight of the century is upon us! Today, in the left corner, we have a Kolibri 88 ‘3’! This, standing 7 inch tall, 2 grams of a brush is ready to fight till death against a half inch taller and one gram heavier – Winsor & Newton Series 7 ‘2’! Will ~8$ Kolibri prewail or will it be crushed by ~12$ Winsor & Newton? Both fighters seem to be in shape so let us begin!

Brush Clash 2 4

Both brushes used are of similar properities, tips shape and size so I decided to clash them against one another. For the purpose of this clash I used Warhammer 40,000 Tau miniatures. Got plenty of those on my desk, awaiting further paint job – so I seized the opportunity. I also used a mix of Vallejo Rust, Bright Bronze, Black and Thinner (Which I called the ‘Underrust’). After checking out the paint and preparing some working space – I’ve started with Kolibri 88 ‘3’, painting ten miniatures with the ‘Underrust’. The surface being painted was rather small, but I tried to compensate by quantity of the miniatures being painted…

Kolibri after 10

Kolibri went through this test really nice. Regardless of not cleaning the brush with water mid-testing, the tip stayed sharp with no hair being separated (Remember Citadel Layer S from the last figt?). Head worked very well, but at first I had to get accustomed to it’s softness. Painting with Kolibri for the first time in my career was a pleasant experience.

I switched to Winsor & Newton Series 7 ‘2’, checked the tip and went all ahead full with another ten miniatures…

Winsor and Newton after 10

The painting experience was almost identical to Kolibri. At some point a single hair split from the tip but rolling it in the paint reshaped the tip to it’s former shape. This happened two times during the ten-miniatures test, but other than that I did not encounter any alarming behaviour of the brush. Main difference between these two brushes was the softness of the head. While Kolibri was pretty soft, W&N stayed firm throughout the test.

I counldn’t decide which brush performed better thus I decided to continue the test. This time I went all-in and painted the entire collection of miniatures with four layers of paints including wash. I grouped the miniatures into two similar groups of over 30 pieces and started my work. It took almost four hours to complete (Oh how the time comes and goes)…

Brush Clash allin

Here’s the video from the fight – I filmed the first round so you can see that the fight was a real deal 🙂


This was a really long battle between two very good brushes. In the end I was able to test both brushes to the extent of their capabilities. I really liked and will certainly paint with both of them from now on, but there can be only one winner of the ‘Brush Clash’. During these four hours of painting I grew accustomed to Kolibri – it felt somehow more pleasant to paint with it. The price, size and weight of the brush have nothing to do with it – it’s just my personal feel. I’m sure it’s because the head of the brush is softer and it was easier for me to operate – at least in this kind of paint job. That is the reason for me to deem Kolibri the winner of the secong Brush Clash, with Winsor & Newton being defeated just by the margin.

If you have any experience with either of these brushes – be sure to leave me a comment with your opinion on it’s performance.






Here are some Colour Recipes for Warhammer 40,000 ‘Tau Empire’ from GALLERY: WARHAMMER 40,000 TAU lvl 3

TAU Stormsurge 5

TURQUISE armour:

Coal Black (P3)*,

Hydra Turquise (AP)*,

Turquise Ink (P3)*,

Turquise Ink (P3)*,

*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)


GREY armour:

German Grey (Vallejo)*,

Wolf Grey (Vallejo)*,

Black Wash (Vallejo)*,

Pallid Wych Flesh (GW),

*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)



Underrust (Warplock Bronze GW – like mix of Vallejo Airs),

Blighted Gold (P3),

Brass Balls (P3),

Mix 1:1 Strong Tone Ink (AP) + Soft Tone Ink (AP),



Warlord Purple (Vallejo)*,


Purple Tone Ink (AP)*,

White points,

Purple Tone Ink (AP) + Medium glazed,

*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)

Desert Rock Bases 8




Shadow Grey (GW),

Shadow Grey (GW) + Frostbite (P3),

Shadow Grey (GW) + Frostbite (P3) 1:2,

Frostbite (P3), soft drybrush












Below is a quick five-colour Step-by-step about painting rocky desert bases. I used this method to base a big army of wh40k Tau – be sure to see the end results in GALLERY: WARHAMMER 40,000 TAU lvl 3


  • Airbrush,
  • Large flat brush,
  • Regular brush,
  • Black undercoat,
  • German Red Brown (Vallejo) Surface Primer,
  • Earth (Vallejo Game Air),
  • Light Brown (Vallejo Model Air),
  • European Dust (Vallejo Wash),
  • Flayed One Flesh (GW),


Desert Rock Bases 2

1  I have undercoated (Airbrush) the entire base with Black paint. To properly undercoat the jagged edges of cork I've added some water to the plack paint and then used a Large flat brush to apply the mixture over this surface.

Desert Rock Bases 3

2  I have airbsrushed German Red Brown onto the entire base. It does not had to be precise, just enought to cover the cork and some bigger flats of sand.

Desert Rock Bases 4

3  Still using airbrush I've applied Earth colour over the surface. This time I ensured that some areas of the cork will be less covered than the others. The process was almost random - just picked some spots to have more paint.

Desert Rock Bases 5

4  Light Brown followed, being airbrushed over the base. Once again I tried to cover some spots better than the others. This time tho I tried not to paint over sand too much, just some delicate puffs of paint.

Desert Rock Bases 6

5  Once the paint was utterly dry I sprayed European Dust over the entire base. The layer had to be thin, just enought to cover the base without leaving any stains.

Desert Rock Bases 7

6  Lastly I used a large flat brush to drybrushed the entire base with Flayed One Flesh. Once it was done I also edged some major edges of the cork with the same colour. Clean black rant of the base followed.

Desert Rock Bases 8









Many names are given to this place. We call it a workshop, a working desk, a hobby spot. Each of us has his own nickname with which he adresses this special place, and it is special cause no two are alike! Filled with brush stands, cans, mini-organizers, boxes, shelves, holders, cutting mats, pads and a variety of tools – working spaces come in many different shapes and forms. Still one vital trait stands out and is common among working spaces – they all are temples of our hobby and as such are treated with love and care.

For me a Workbench is an altar. Each time I add a small detail – be it a single accessory holder, a new brush can, or a new addition to my modular workshop system – I feel like a builder expanding an antic temple to stand even higher and wider – all to the glory of the gods. And just as such I tend to hire the best architects and artists from around the globe to lend me their skills…

workbench new 3

The bulk of my personal altar is mostly made out of HobbyZone’s ‘Modular Workshop System’. I have expanded this set three times by now and am sure to purchase even more pieces, just as the opportunity presents itself. As it happened, couple of days ago I felt the need to expand my Workbench a bit and ordered two new pieces of HZ ‘Modular Workshop System’. So as a happy customer and a total fanboy of HobbyZone I wanted to share with you some insight into their fantastic offer.


One of the two most important things about HobbyZone’s products is quality. It can be seen in every detail, starting with how these items are packed, how they look like, with nice, almost stylish combination of white and plywood. Add to it the width of all the outer casings and inner ‘holding’ walls which makes these things durable and reliable in many crisis situations. Also each piece is designed to withstand stress of moving them around with additional waight on top. Walls are clamped together providing a sturdy structure and on top of that there are actual magnets inserted into the construction to help you keep everything in place.

HZ 10

HZ 11


Second most important thing about HobbyZone’s Modular Workshop is functionality. OK, I haven’t tested all the different parts of ‘Modular Workshop System’, but hey – the entire point is to pick a set that would suit your needs best! Right now my set consists of three drawer modules, one paint module, one showcase module and one brushes and tools module with an addition of eight paint hangers. Each of these items prooved to be usefull to me and I don’t see a way it can be further improoved. And I am a guy who tends to redesign stuff to better suit his needs – It’s just that HobbyZone’s stuff is cool as it is.

HZ 9

HZ 12


I believe that the way an item is packed corresponds directly to it’s quality and the way a custumer will perceive it. I appreciate when an Item I spent my money on is well packed (cared for). That being sayed – I just love the way HobbyZone stuff is packed. Each item has it’s own box, filled with bubble wrap. Inside you will find an instruction and all the pieces required to ‘build’ particular item (except for glue, but which hobbyist does not have that already?). By now I know exactly what I would see inside a new HobbyZone box – even so each unpacking is still a pleasant experience.

HZ 1

HZ 2

HZ 3

HZ 4

HZ 5

HZ 6


Each piece of HobbyZone ‘Modular Workshop System’ is designed to be user friendly and easy to assemble. No tools are required to put these things together. With a nice and easy to understand instruction (that comes with each set), I was able to put this module together in less than five minutes. Half an hour later when glue was dry, I was able to use this piece.


HZ 7

HZ 8


Each hobbyist is probably going to see the matter of price differently. For me the quality and functionality of HobbyZone’s ‘Modular Workshop System’ is well ballanced with a price oscillating between 10-20€/medium piece. Purchased items are shiped within 72hrs from purchase (during working days). HobbyZone is well stocked in it’s stuff. Don’t know how about you, but I totally appreciate it. If you still not into it – just check out this MIND BLOWING STICKER!

HZ xd

For me HobbyZone’s stuff is totally 10/10. If you struggle to keep your workbench organized do not waste your time – just go to HobbyZone.pl/en(EU) / HobbyZone.biz(USA) and change your life for better. Zapisz








An important thing that makes me use a Harder & Steenbeck airbrush is it’s quality.  I’ve been using Infinity  CR plus for around a year now and am really satisfied with it’s performance. Futhermore I can say that I love this Airbrush so much as to expand it’s set of needles and nozzles whenever I have an excuse to do so. But this is a review of a 0,2 mm Nozzle upgrade set, so I won’t let my overall sympathy for H&S cloud my judgement.

harder and steenbeck complaint 3

!  This article is made of two parts, first being rather a complaint about how this item was packed. If you want to see the actual performance review, scroll down to the second part...


The packaging of my brand new 0,2mm Nozzle upgrade set was the usual. A plastic tube, plugged at both sides and filled at some point with puffed-up foil separator. At one side was a nozzle along with a nozzle protector, and at the other the most fragile and delicate piece – a needle. At first glance it looked just fine…

harder and steenbeck complaint 2

But it was not! Take a closer look and you will see how badly packed this one was…

harder and steenbeck complaint 1

Uuuugh… This needle was totally out of commission. No way to even try to repair it. I was very dissapointed.

I quickly filled a complaint and sent it to the store that sold me this ‘thing’. Fortunatelly for me the item was purchased in one of my favorite stores, which is well known of being both solid and supportive. They quickly redirected my complaint to Harder & Steenbeck and soon after I got a needle replacement. If I am to give you advice at this point, that would be:

  • To purchase stuff in a reliable store,
  • To always check out the needle before unpacking,


Due to a basic needle protectors being rather open I’ve already damaged an unimaginable number of 0,15mm and 0,2mm needles, that’s why I tend to work with a strong 0,4mm one. 0,4 being my favorite by necessity, I’ve decided to use it in 0,2/0,4mm sets comparison.

Harder Steenbeck 02 Nozzle 04 close

It is a precise and smooth working nozzle, with needle being long but durable. For the purpose of the test I used Vallejo Magic Blue. Air preassure was set to 2 bars, while I’ve made some dots and lines. It wen’t a bit grainy, so a Thinner was added to the paint. More dots and lines, and here’s the result:

Harder Steenbeck 02 Nozzle 04 all

For me it’s the usual stuff with 0,4mm needle providing me with means to paint entire miniatures and some small spots as well. So I’ve changed to a smaller caliber, installing 0,2mm nozzle set. With Infinity CR Plus being user friendly, I was ready for action in merely moments. The needle was very fragile, but also well covered and set up much deeper than it’s 0,4mm counterpart. The important difference is also the fact that nozzle protector and needle protector are just one piece in this set. I couldn’t see the needle while working, but at the same time it was well protected from my clumsiness.

Harder Steenbeck 02 Nozzle 02 close

Once again I’ve made some dots and lines using Vallejo Magic Blue. The paint was flowing without issues. I’ve added a thinner and made some more dots and lines. I was under a big impression of how tiny and precise the dots were. Also lines were slim and nice. Here’s the result:

Harder Steenbeck 02 Nozzle 02 all

And a result using Vallejo Light Green on the actual miniature:

Harder Steenbeck 02 Nozzle 6

At this point you may also want to see the performance of both nozzle sets in a short Video:


In the end for an unexperienced airbrush user like me 0,2mm was a totally new experience. Also entire thing being just one part made it much easier to use baskwash to clear up the nozzle by delicately turning the  protector left and letting the air flow to within the paint container.

Harder Steenbeck 02 Nozzle backwash cleaning x


I’m very happy about this set. It not only lets me use a tiny needle without fear of it being damaged, but also makes it easier for me to use some cool features of Infinity CR Plus with it. My verdict is 9/10 – a very useful thing to add even more value to an already awesome airbrush.























Foreboding my previous lifestyle in favor of painting for hire was the best decission in my entire life. Not only that I have a lot of fun in my ‘job’ but also plenty of time for my own projects. For those who knew me before scarhandpainting.com the number of Special Projects appearing lately might be quite a surprise. I myself am taken aback by the sheer numbers of personal projects I can work on. Below is a visual step-by-step of just such a project.


A big Infinity Event is closing in. ‘Polish Championships’ will take place tomorrow and I’ve trained my Corregiror army and dice rolling hard in preparation. Along with the usual mano-a-mano combat, a Painting Contest will also take place at the event. Each player is eligible to select one of his army rosters and present the miniatures for everyone to see and vote. I thought long and hard to think of anything that could deliver my miniatures to the podium. I know very well that there’s plenty of awesome painters among the Infinity community in Poland and that competition will be very strong. My miniatures look nice but not awesome enought to compete with paint jobs that literally blow my mind. I’ve figured something special – a Nomad-like trick to fight for the attention of voters. A special display diorama to compliment my army’s visuals as a nice background, built and painted in the same theme as the bases of my Corregidor army.

For this purpose I found a suitable wooden crate to be used as the base for entire diorama. I’ve also set up a makeshift display of miniatures to see if the base is large enought to accomodate them.

Corregidor Diorama wip 1

Corregidor Diorama wip 2


The wooden crate passed this test so I’ve  gathered 3mm PCV and some HDF leftovers. The entire layout of the diorama was taking life in my mind’s eye as I started to work on it. I’ve used the wooden crate as a template to cut a floor and a wall for the diorama. After that an idea to build a small balcony with stairs and a sniper point came to my mind. I quickly dig through any materials and pieces that might be used for that and found my good old Micro Art Studio’s walkways set. The set had some sweet looking pieces that I implemented into this project.

Corregidor Diorama wip 3

Corregidor Diorama wip 4

Using a ruler and a pen I drawn some makeshift panels and bolt holes on the ‘wall’ and prepared space for MDF pieces to be put into. I also shortened the MAS’s stairs and added elements of my own to make them look more industrial. Floor followed in a quick succession with the center being switched for a big MAS’s MDF panel. I also moundet the ‘wall’ using three screws. Initially I wanted to use magnets to keep the thing removable, but in the end I wanted for my miniatures to be safe. After that I’ve mounted three wall panels to be used as a base for glow globes. I also made some dents, marks and holes in the concrete panels of both wall and floor. Once I was done I’ve made a last check of display. Just before undercoating I had an idea to add some pipes and a vent along the walls to build even more industrial theme of the diorama. I used lollipop sticks and some leftovers to do that and proceeded to the undercoat.

Corregidor Diorama wip 5

Corregidor Diorama wip 6

Corregidor Diorama wip 7

Corregidor Diorama wip 8

Corregidor Diorama wip 10

Once it was dry I have covered the entire thing in two strong layers of Eshin Gray, then painted up all metal elements with a Tin Bitz, Boltgun Metal, Mithrill Silver layers and then washed entire thing with Devlan Mud two times. I slowly applied layer after layer starting with Scorched Brown, then following with Calthan Brown, Ryza Rust, Lugganath Orange and lastly Flayed One Flesh. This is the same colour scheme as the one used for my Concrete Bases. Actually both metal and concrete were painted the same way as in these tutorials:



Corregidor Diorama wip 11

Corregidor Diorama wip 12

Corregidor Diorama wip 13

Corregidor Diorama wip 14

Starting with Calthan Ryza Rust I’ve covered metal elements along with concrete panels, but before that I’ve made a short pause to airbrushed white-creeme lines and a Nomad graffitti. Ryza Rust, Lugganath Orange and Flayed One Flesh went over the lines to create an impression of them being damaged and eroded along with the concrete panels. Once Flayed One Flesh layer was done I lined/edged all the angles using the exact same piant. I also added grease/Rust streaks and oil stains here and there to bring the diorama closer to a life scene.

Corregidor Diorama wip 15

Corregidor Diorama wip 16

Corregidor Diorama wip 17

Corregidor Diorama wip 19

In the end I had to add a name, so I used a template created for me by Reycast Miniatures and airbrushed another graffitti onto the now black edges. Simple OSL was airbrushed and I mounted glow globes in the center points of each light. I also added three purple barrels to compensate glow globe’s green in preparation for red miniatures.

Corregidor Diorama wip 20

Corregidor Diorama wip 21

The final piece exceeded my expectations. Even my Girlfriend said it looks cool – and that’s rare! Damn – I count on this one to help me climb the ladder in the contest. If not – well, at least I have a fine piece to set up behind glass along with some less used Nomad Miniatures XD

Corregidor Diorama Done 2

Corregidor Diorama Done 3

Corregidor Diorama Done 4


27.6.2016: I actually won the painting contest XD Ultra happy about the fact! Here’s the entry:

Corregidor GO GO NOMADS Force on a Diorama Display















This mini diorama is a ‘special’ kind of a Special Project. The Penthesilea, Amazon Warrioress is a part of ALEPH collection, but I was asked by a friend to make her somehow unique – just to stand out on a display.

Penthesilea s1

It took three failed attempts to base Penthesilea, as I was torn between many different options of a scenic base. I have tried to use a photo frame and model a wild west highway on it. I’ve tried to make a futuristic enviroment on a small wooden plinth. I even tried to use a coffee cap to base Penthesilea, but each time I just torn her off and tossed my creation into garbage (or hid it in the closet for later use). Salvation came to me in the form of a Micro Art Studio’s container, with which these guys filled a package of stuff I’ve ordered from them. “One man’s trash is another man’s treasure” and guys from MAS knew that I will have some use of their’s Kickstarter’s misscasts and leftovers. I cut the container in two and set up a nice background on it. Here’s a WIP pic:

Mirai WIP 1

This is how I actually started to work on this particular miniature – with a base instead of a model. After that it went pretty smooth with three days of painting, along with other miniatures. Each time I’ve ended up a key stage of this project, I was able to take a respite with another miniature, and then get back to Penthesilea. This pace kept me going with a lot of vigour, but also enabled me to look at Penthesilea with a bit of critique. I’ve corrected my mistakes at the start of each new stage and then followed adding new colours to the paint job. In the end I am very happy of how this one came out to be.

Mirai WIP 2

Here’s the final piece: “PENTHESILEA”

Penthesilea ss1

Penthesilea ss2

View complete Gallery…





Here are some Colour Recipes for Warhammer 40,000 ‘Imperial Fists’ Space Marines from GALLERY: IMPERIAL FISTS lvl 3-4

Imperial Fists Hunter Stalker 2

YELLOW armour:

Corax White undercoat (GW),

White preshading*,

Gold Yellow 72.707 (Vallejo)*,

Soft Tone Ink (AP)*,

Matt Varnish (Vallejo)*,

Moldy Ochre (P3) edges,

Khaki 72.761 (Vallejo)*,

Earth 72.762 (Vallejo)*,

Dark Fleshtone 72.744 (Vallejo)* dirt,


IF pancerz WIP


Light Sea Blue 71.089 (Vallejo)*,


Guilliman Blue Glaze (GW),


BLUE Lens:

Teclis Blue (GW),

Hoeth Blue (GW),

Hoeth blue + White (GW),


Guilliman Blue Glaze (GW),

White edges,

Imperial Fists Hunter Stalker 5






Frostbite (P3) edges,

White edges,

Khaki 72.761 (Vallejo)*,

Earth 72.762 (Vallejo)*,




Welcome to the Painting Arena! A fight the of century is before us! In the left corner we have a ‘Citadel Layer S’ brush! When it comes to painting miniatures this hobby brush is a Games Workshop’s bread and butter! Worth approximately 4,3 €, Citadel Layer S will be clashed against a cheaper Tamiya 87050. Tamiya’s approximate worth is only 3,4 € but it has a fighting spirit like no other! Which brush will emerge victorious? Which one will fall to oblivion? Buckle up and see for yourself…

Brush Clash Tamiya vs Citadel 5

I used a Infinity: Lunokhod miniature that could use some paint job to clash Citadel Layer S against Tamiya 87050. Both of these brushes had seen some action but not enough to be called a ‘veteran’. Let’s say that both were purchased recently and were used just couple of times before this clash. For the purpose of this article I used Games Workshop’s Mechrite Red. Till now I had no problems using this paint. It’s consistency let’s me paint constantly for a long period of time before I need to either clean or switch brushes. I started by applying Mechrite Red on one leg of the miniature – I used an unrelated brush for that, to check out the paint. It went good, so I switched to Citadel Layer S. This is how it looked after painting a single Lunokhod’s leg…

Brush Clash Tamiya vs Citadel 11

After only one part of the miniature entire brush turned into utter chaos. Hair behaved like if they really ‘wanted’ to disperse. I had a lot of difficulity covering the entire surface without moisting and reposing the brush (which I didn’t for the sake of this article).

Next in line was Tamiya 87050 and I’ve painted both rear legs with it before taking a picture…

Brush Clash Tamiya vs Citadel 12

As you can see Tamiya 87050 hair held ground and stayed composed. I wandered how long this brush can stay this way so I kept painting and painted entire Lunokhod without ever reposing brush’s tip. Here’s the result…

Brush Clash Tamiya vs Citadel 13

Tamiya 87050 stayed composed till the end. Must say that regardless of using Tamiya’s brushes for some time now – I was surprised to see it’s performance. Check out the video below to see how the clash proceeded…


After long battle in which a lot of paint was spilled – Tamiya 87050 emerged a victor! Not only cheaper but much – MUCH – more durable and paint job friendly. The tip worked well throughout the entire process with hair flexible and pose reshaping itself. This kind of brush will surely provide you with comfort. Opposite to that Citadel Layer S failed after merely seconds of usage. It’s tip went berzerk the instant I started painting. I would never recommend this kind of brush for anything except washing or applying glue. I wander why I’ve tolerated this kind of brush’s behaviour till now… well it’s either trash or death in suicide mission for this one now. Will never purchase another Games Workshop’s brush again.



I’ve done a lot of scraping lately and at some point (inevitably) asked myself – why won’t I do a Tutorial about it? Many modellers struggle with metal miniatures, and especially their preparation. Some of my friends were even complaining about how thankless the task of scraping mold lines is for them, while in truth I find the process to be both simple and fast. But to be so – one must possess know how first…


  • Modelling Knife,
  • Sharp edged File,
  • Round edged File,

Removing Moldlines 1


One of the most important things to remember in handling the Modelling Knife is the GRIP. I use a simple technique of holding the knife in the crook of my fingers while leaving the tumb free. The edge is always kept pointed outward (well, not always as I tend to cut my fingers far to often – but the basic rule holds).

Removing Moldlines grip


We’ve already estabilished that the cutting edge should be pointed outward, but what angle to use? I found that the angle that works the best for me is something around 45 degree. It provides a smooth movement and is capable of removing thin mold lines. Some modellers like to keep their edge at a 90 degree angle as it tends to remove mold lines faster, but I must warn you that it usually ends up damaging the miniature’s surface. The friction is just too strong.


Removing Moldlines 2

Removing Moldlines 3


You have a free thumb – why not use it? I like to to hold the miniature with my left hand, moving it around under the knife. I keep the thumb of my right hand on the miniature, applying preassure and using it as the point to which the knife will be moved. This way I have a perfect control over the speed and the angle of the knife.

Removing Moldlines 4


Some modellers like to use files instead ofa  knife. It surely provides a smoother and more elegant surface, but takes much more time to accomplish, what knife does in merely seconds. I still use files in these two cases:


I use Sharp edged file each time an uneven surface like hair, refracted clothes, teeth of a chainblade etc. appears. I use long, smooth moves betwen the lines of the slot – usually one such move does the job of removing mold lines just fine.

Removing Moldlines 6


Once I’m done with the knife and Sharp edged file I use a Round edged file to smooth all the surface. My moves are light and fast, just brushing over the sides of the miniature.

Removing Moldlines 5

Here’s a quick video of how I do it:

And the end result (which you can actually see in much better quality in any of my galleries):

Removing Moldlines end