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Author Archives: Nazroth

COLOUR RECIPES: INFINITY USARF

Here are some Colour Recipes for Infinity USAriadna Ranger Force from GALLERY: INFINITY USARIADNA. Please take note that this is a simple colour scheme, not covering multiple overlapping layers and blends inbetween, that lead to the final product. It is supposed to be used as guidline not a step-by-step.

Ariadna lvl comp 1

 

Armour & Uniforms:

Black Undercoat,

Dark Earth (Vallejo),*

Light Brown (Vallejo),*

Light Brown (Vallejo) points,*

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),

Flayed One Flesh (GW),

Pallid Wych Flesh (GW) l&p,

 

BLACK/GREY outfits & weapons:

Black Undercoat,

Skavenblight Dinge (GW),

Fenrisian Grey (GW),

Pallid Wych Flesh (GW) l&p,

Dark Tone Ink (AP),

Pallid Wych Flesh (GW) l&p,

White l&p,

wip-ariadna

BROWN elements:

Olive Drab (Vallejo),

Gorthor Brown (GW),

Gorthor Brown (GW) + Pallid Wych Flesh (GW),

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),

Karak Stone (GW) l&p,

 

SKIN:

Bugmans Glow (GW),

Dwarf Flesh (GW),

Dwarf Flesh (GW) + Pale Flesh (Vallejo),

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),

Pale Flesh (Vallejo),

Pale Flesh (Vallejo) + Pallid Wych Flesh (GW) l&p,

 

Ariadna grunts foxtrot van zant 1

*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)

l&p – lines and points,

View the INFINITY GALLERY…

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Nazroth

TUTORIAL: PAINTING MICRO ART STUDIO CONCRETE WALLS

SbS MAS Walls 1

Micro Art Studio does some fantastic paint job on their stuff. At some level it might even be considered a bit intimidating. Thoughts like ‘This stuff is amazing, but I will never be able to paint it anything like they did’ had kept me from purchasing some awesome terrain pieces in the past. I bet that some of you feel the same right now. Well – that is clearly a bad way of thinking. That’s why I prepared this small Step-by-step painting tutorial with which I hope to bring you closer to your ideal of a Gaming Table.

For this purpose I picked a Concrete Wall Set 2 by Micro Art Studio and tried to copy their style with a small variation of the colour scheme.

I USED:

  • Airbrush, (Harder & Steinbeck Infinity CR plus 0,4mm nozzle)
  • Small brush,
  • Mechanicus Standard Grey (GW) Undercoat,
  • Airbrush Flow Improver (Vallejo ),
  • White (Vallejo) Surface Primer,
  • Light Brown (Vallejo Game Air),
  • Soft Tone Ink (Army Painter),
  • Light Livery Green (Vallejo Game Air),
  • Waywatcher Green (GW) Glaze,
  • Streaking Grime (AK Interactive) Weathering effect,

 

SbS MAS Walls 2

SbS MAS Walls 3

1  After unpacking the set I have cleared any extent of resin and prepared each piece for the undercoat.

I used THIS METHOD

SbS MAS Walls layer 1 GW Mechanicus Standard Grey

2  I have covered entire set with Games Workshop's Mechanicus Standard Grey primer. Usually I use Black Undercoat first, but in this case the surface was smooth and I knew it will work well with a Grey undercoat. Do not feel obliged to use the exact same primer - you can easily use Vallejo Grey Surface Primer instead and Airbrush it over the surface. I used spray just to save some time.

SbS MAS Walls layer 2 Vallejo White Primer

3  I gently arbrushed Vallejo White Surface Primer over the set. First I tried to cover entire surface from afar (15cm distance, constant flow, see pic - dark spots), then I  outlined center of each flat surface with additional layers (5cm distance, soft puffs of paint, see pic - light spots). This resulted in the surfaces gaining some extra shadows.

SbS MAS Walls layer 3 Vallejo Light Brown

4  I used airbrush to apply Vallejo Light Brown onto the lower parts of each Wall piece. I mixed a bit of Airbrush Flow Improver to build up a nice transition from brown to white. The key is to paint in smooth lines, then go backwards building up colour. Too much paint in the same spot will result in paint spilling all around and ruining the paint job.

SbS MAS Walls layer 4 AP Soft Tone Ink

5  Then I moved to Army Painter's Soft Tone Ink and airbrushed it over Light Brown, with an addition of single strokes over the recesses of four oval Wall pieces. I was careful not to apply too much paint as in this particular case I wanted to build up a nice hume of colour, instead of 'washing' the surface with it.

SbS MAS Walls layer 5 Vallejo Light Livery Green copy

6  Then I applied a thin layer of Vallejo Light Livery Green over and around each lamp. A lot of small puffs of paint helped me to keep the base shape of light around the lamps. Even if one or two puffs went too far, they were so delicate as to remain unseen once the majority of colour was applied. 

SbS MAS Walls layer 6 GW Waywatcher Green copy

7  To strenghten the colour I used a small brush and applied Games Workshop's Waywacher Green onto the lamps. I tried not to exeed the boundries of their slots and in case I did - I used a small piece of paper towel to clear the paint out.

SbS MAS Walls layer 7 AK streaks

8  Finally I applied AK Interactive Streaking Grime. Using a small brush I poured this weathering effect paint into holes, then smeared it dow with a tip of the brush. The more irregular it went, the better to the overall visual effect.

In the end I used a template provided by Reycast to airbrush a small Nomad prank onto the wall, with a Vallejo Black Paint. What’s left now is to purchase Micro Art Studio’s S-F Graffiti Transfers and job will be done.

Here is a result of my paint job:

Micro Art Studio concrete walls set 1

Micro Art Studio concrete walls set 2

Micro Art Studio concrete walls set 3

 

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Nazroth

August 2016

MIESIĄC SIERPIEŃ 2016

August – time to relax and tan in the sun 🙂 For me it was also a time to close Warhammer 40,000 Tau commission along with Epic 40,000 Ork Clans! After closing up both of these I’ve spent some time preparing a template for Corregidor Bases, then sent them straight to Micro Art Studio to be mass produced! That’s not all as throughout the month many test commissions came in, including Infinity ALEPH, Infinity USAriadna, AVP Predators and some Dragonlance miniatures. I’ve spent some time with them and even managed to paint a final piece for the ‘I AM NOMAD’ promo campaign. All of this in just one month XD

Warhammer 40,00 TAU EMPIRE – View gallery…

TAU Third Wave big

TAU Hammerhead 4

Epic 40,000 ORK CLANS – View gallery…

Ork Clans all

Ork Clans Evil Sunz Mekboy Gargant & Tinbots 2

Infinity MISCAELLOUS – View gallery…

Nomads Bakunin Reverend Healer 11

Infinity ALEPH – comming soon…

ALEPH Asura dark 1

ALEPH Asura 5

ALEPH Asura 4

Infinity USAriadna – View gallery…

Ariadna grunts foxtrot van zant desk

Ariadna roger van zant 1

Aliens vs Predator – View gallery…

AVP Predators z3

Dragonlcance – test commission…

Dragonlance miniatures 1

Dragonlance miniatures 2

Corregidor Bases – Work in Progress…

Corregidor bases wip 4

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Nazroth

REVIEW: DISPLAYS AND GLASS DOMES

Have you ever created a work that you were so proud of as to arrange it in a display or glass dome? If so – you probably know that finding such is a quest in itself. With few ‘worthy’ miniatures of my own I have wandered the web in search of proper displays and glass domes. I’ve seen many forum threads and online stores but to no avail. At some point I even abandoned all hope. Stores that might provide me with good quality items, that I was searching for, seemed to elude me. Years passed by, while I grew more and more tired of my unsuccessful search.You see the biggest issue about the displays in modelling is their size. It’s difficult to find a display of the exact dimensions to suit 28mm scaled miniatures. Usually what’s available for purchase is huge in comparrison to what you are looking for and in worse cases – of bad quality.

 

Fortunately for me, the search ended abruptly few weeks ago when I stumbled upon not one but two ideal sources of the items I was looking for. After making a test purchase I’ve decided to share with you some the insight…

 

IZMOD DISPLAYS

Izmod is a Polish company producing Displays for miniatures and models. The company seems to be a one-man bussiness with a small online store. The owner is a kind and trustworthy person, open to ideas (at least that’s my opinion) so I asked him about few things and  got to know that right now he is preparing an english version of his website. Good news is that anyone interrested in the purchase can still contact him via e-mail, as it is possible for him to sell and send the items abroad. He also informed me about the differences in the wood structure and the ways his displays are being glued. I’m sure that he is ready to answer any questions regarding eventual purchase, while his producs – well, just see for yourself…

Displays and Glass Domes 1

QUALITY:

Quality of Izmod’s displays is really nice. Depending on the choosen type of wood, the base elements are smooth and cut in a way that compliments the shape of the base. The base comes laquered and feels great in touch, while also being paint-friendly. The plexi displays came to me unscratched (excluding one that was damaged by the post office and exchanged shortlya fter with a new one). The walls are perfectly translucent and edges are rather even. I say ‘rather’ cause here and there some small irregularities appear, but I would still give them 8/10. The only flaw I could find is the way the outer cuting edges are rought in some places, but I’m sure that these can be further polished once I’ll start preparing these displays for the exposition.

Displays and Glass Domes 5

Displays and Glass Domes 4

Displays and Glass Domes 3

PRICE:

Price of these items is fair, varying between 13-25€ with no item from the above picture being even close to the upper price. I’m sure that once you will check out this offer you will find the price well balanced.

LARGE SELECTION:

As I have already mentioned – these items come in a large selection. A variety of shapes and sizes with bases being cut in few differend ways and laquered in different colours. For me being able to choose from between the size of 6/6/6cm and 50/35/35cm is just a thing of beauty. To sweeten the deal, the displays come in few types of wood.

Displays and Glass Domes 6

 

Maybe I’m hyped a bit, but I just want to scream ‘awesome!’ about these things. If you are looking for a proper miniature display – be sure to give Izmod a shot.

Displays and Glass Domes 2

IKEA GLASS DOMES

Everyone knows IKEA. So many houses felt it’s presence these days. Every kind of house related stuff can be found there, still I was somehow shocked to see a series of cool looking glass domes there. Maybe that’s because I was hunting for a fine glass dome with a wooden base for couple of year – don’t know. What I know is that once I accidentally caught a glimpse of a glass dome – I just stood there mesmerized untill me gf bumped into me asking what am I looking at so intensely. It was like a dream come true. Just look at these beauties and you will understand…

Displays and Glass Domes ikea ikea

QUALITY:

In comparison to what I already had at home, the quality of Ikea’s glass domes is very good. Glass is smooth and translucent while bases are perfectly shaped. Some small flaws can bee found here and there, but the overall visuals of the domes is just cool. Also the glass is thin making these domes light (which can be very helpful while cleaning the insides).

Displays and Glass Domes ikea 2

Displays and Glass Domes ikea 4

Displays and Glass Domes ikea 3

PRICE:

Both domes are priced around 10€ which is more than a fair price. I remember purchasing an unbased glass dome for more than 15€, with glass being dimm and blurry (can be seen in the above pics). I don’t know how these will be priced in your place, but be sure to check out both items in the closest Ikea.

Small glass dome code: 303.272.52

Large glass dome code: 403.273.03

Displays and Glass Domes ikea 1

Here’s my advice for you. If you have any advice for me in return – be sure to leave it in the comments section – I’ll be happy to expand my collection of displays and glass domes.

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Nazroth

TUTORIAL: WHEN HANDS SAFETY WENT WRONG

Scarred hand x

“Khorne cares not from whence the blood flows, only that it does…” and in case of our favorite hobby – Let’s just say that it sustains Khorne much more than you can imagine. If you haven’t had any nasty damage done to your hands during hobby labour, than you probably don’t know what true modelling is about! To be short – Yes, a lot of nasty cuts and damage happens to modellers all over the world at daily basis. Most basic are the modelling knife cuts and punctures but believe me – there’s plenty of more serious damage going on all the time. How can we prevent such damage? Well, otherwise than being extra careful – and this not always helps – we can’t. Now you probably wander ‘so what is it that this article is actually about?’ – a fine question, let me answer: This article is all about what happens after you’ve injured your precious hands.

1  BE PREPARED

There’s nothing worse than being caught off guard. Be sure to anticipate an injury at some point and keep some purified water, plasters and a bandage nearby – in case you would need them. Also it is recommended to know where in a hand the most important veins are located. The best way to learn it is to GOOGLE IT. This way, once your hands start bleeding, you will have both confidence and means to deal with an injury the right way…

Scarred hand veins

2  STAY CALM

Nasty hand injuries happen but unless they are located on the inside of your wrist, or you’ve just chopped off a finger – they shouldn’t pose an immediate threat. Sure, they are bloody to a point when you start to wander if death is what’s comming next – but hey – not a chance for that. In worst case scenario a nerve could’ve been damaged, but these tend to regenerate over time. So no matter what – keep calm and reasonable…

Scarred hand calm

3  FIRST AID

Once you’ve located the cut, make sure to clean-up the wound using purified water. (Do not use alcohol!). It is very important, especially due to workbenches being full of dust, sand, pieces of plastic and overall dirt – modelling leftovers. Once the wound is clean, use a piece of bandage or a plaster to cover it (Do not use cotton whool as it will stick to the wound making any later change of dressing difficult).  To help stop the bleeding keep the wounded hand up, pressing the bandaged wound with your free hand…

Scarred hand 1st aid

4  PROFESSIONAL HELP

Most wounds do not require professional assistance. Small cuts are rather easy to deal with, but sometimes – when things went bananas – it’s good to try and seek a Doctors help. Better to have a nasty wound sutured than to parade with a malformed finger to the rest of your days, especially if there’s a chance that hand’s basic functions are endangered (I know the latter from my own experience, as one of my fingers is almost out of the game). Be sure to call/visit a doctor ASAP if any of the below are true:

  • The wound won’t stop bleeding,
  • There is a tension in the wounded finger, you are unable to perform some movements,
  • You are unabple to straighten the finger/s,
  • You feel like some really crazy shit is going on with the wound and it should be cared by a pro,

Scarred hand help

 

MY OWN ADVENTURE:

During my time as a modeller I had my share of some really nasty injuries. The testimony of theese is left over my hands in form of scars. I even had one of my right hand’s knuckles damaged to a point of no turning back to it’s previous function. Still the most bloody of my hand injuries took place in 2011. I remember like if it was yesterday. A sunny day during a weekend with me working on the floor near my old workbench. I was preparing a series of terrain pieces for Warhammer Fantasy Battles ( Yup – there was such a game in the old days 😛 ). I was cutting some styrofoam into basic shape for hills. Done a lot of these and let routine take over. All of a sudden I felt a burning pain in my left thumb.

Scarred hand y

As it happened – I almost completely sliced off the entire top part of my thumb’s knuckle along with a piece of styrodure. At first there was no blood, only pain and a bit of ‘what the hell just happened?’. Moments later blood gushed from the wound. I thought that maybe I’ve injured some vital vein or something – there was a lot of blood, at least much more than ever before. Pressing the injury I’ve checked out google for any information about possibility of veins being in the vicinity of the wound. Fortunatelly for me I cut a knuckle along with it’s neighborhood, instead of slicing through the inner left part of the finger. So I’ve calmed down and cleaned up the wound. First using plain water (not so smart, but I’m hardcore when it comes to injuries – what doesn’t kill me, makes me stronger), then preparing a makeshift bandage…

Scarred hand 1(That looks nasty doesn’t it? That’s how a hand injury looks like – don’t let yourself be overwhelmed with panic once you cut yourself this way.)

I took things into my own hands (or rather hand, as the other one was currently out of commission) and prepared a special form of dressing for the injured finger. My reasoning went like this: I didn’t wanted to go to hospital, await for three to five hours to finally be stitched. I also wanted to keep my finger operational in the future (both near and distant). I wasn’t thinking smart, just followed modellers calling on this. I cut two splints out of a coca-cola bottle, desinfected them with alcohol and used a plaster to secure the finger with them. I also bandaged the wound itself and actually taped the entire construction. This dressing was to be switched couple of times a day – leaving more and more of the finger in the open so that the wound could breathe. The key point was for the wound to stay immobile, not to let it open and start bleeding again…

Scarred hand 2

This looks crazy funny when I see it now – but back then I was proud of my creations. Be it by a blessing or merely luck following idiots – it worked. Right now a scar is in the place of former wound, but at least the finger works fine and no nerve has been severed. It is fully operational with all it’s functions being kept.

Scarred hand 3

So – we’ve learned, we’ve laught – don’t do that at home etc. The final advice I can provide you with is once again – keep calm. Sooner or later an injury will happen to you – keep panic at bay and follow with the first aid. If you’ve prepared yourself beforehand – it will go much smoother and the wound would have a bigger chance to heal nicely.

 

Hope this one is helpful.

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Nazroth

REVIEW: BRUSH CLASH KOLIBRI vs WINSOR & NEWTON

Are you hungry for spilled paint? Ripped hair, broken handles? Another fight of the century is upon us! Today, in the left corner, we have a Kolibri 88 ‘3’! This, standing 7 inch tall, 2 grams of a brush is ready to fight till death against a half inch taller and one gram heavier – Winsor & Newton Series 7 ‘2’! Will ~8$ Kolibri prewail or will it be crushed by ~12$ Winsor & Newton? Both fighters seem to be in shape so let us begin!

Brush Clash 2 4

Both brushes used are of similar properities, tips shape and size so I decided to clash them against one another. For the purpose of this clash I used Warhammer 40,000 Tau miniatures. Got plenty of those on my desk, awaiting further paint job – so I seized the opportunity. I also used a mix of Vallejo Rust, Bright Bronze, Black and Thinner (Which I called the ‘Underrust’). After checking out the paint and preparing some working space – I’ve started with Kolibri 88 ‘3’, painting ten miniatures with the ‘Underrust’. The surface being painted was rather small, but I tried to compensate by quantity of the miniatures being painted…

Kolibri after 10

Kolibri went through this test really nice. Regardless of not cleaning the brush with water mid-testing, the tip stayed sharp with no hair being separated (Remember Citadel Layer S from the last figt?). Head worked very well, but at first I had to get accustomed to it’s softness. Painting with Kolibri for the first time in my career was a pleasant experience.

I switched to Winsor & Newton Series 7 ‘2’, checked the tip and went all ahead full with another ten miniatures…

Winsor and Newton after 10

The painting experience was almost identical to Kolibri. At some point a single hair split from the tip but rolling it in the paint reshaped the tip to it’s former shape. This happened two times during the ten-miniatures test, but other than that I did not encounter any alarming behaviour of the brush. Main difference between these two brushes was the softness of the head. While Kolibri was pretty soft, W&N stayed firm throughout the test.

I counldn’t decide which brush performed better thus I decided to continue the test. This time I went all-in and painted the entire collection of miniatures with four layers of paints including wash. I grouped the miniatures into two similar groups of over 30 pieces and started my work. It took almost four hours to complete (Oh how the time comes and goes)…

Brush Clash allin

Here’s the video from the fight – I filmed the first round so you can see that the fight was a real deal 🙂

RESULTS:

This was a really long battle between two very good brushes. In the end I was able to test both brushes to the extent of their capabilities. I really liked and will certainly paint with both of them from now on, but there can be only one winner of the ‘Brush Clash’. During these four hours of painting I grew accustomed to Kolibri – it felt somehow more pleasant to paint with it. The price, size and weight of the brush have nothing to do with it – it’s just my personal feel. I’m sure it’s because the head of the brush is softer and it was easier for me to operate – at least in this kind of paint job. That is the reason for me to deem Kolibri the winner of the secong Brush Clash, with Winsor & Newton being defeated just by the margin.

If you have any experience with either of these brushes – be sure to leave me a comment with your opinion on it’s performance.

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Nazroth

COLOUR RECIPES: WARHAMMER 40,000 TAU

Here are some Colour Recipes for Warhammer 40,000 ‘Tau Empire’ from GALLERY: WARHAMMER 40,000 TAU lvl 3

TAU Stormsurge 5

TURQUISE armour:

Coal Black (P3)*,

Hydra Turquise (AP)*,

Turquise Ink (P3)*,

Turquise Ink (P3)*,

*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)

 

GREY armour:

German Grey (Vallejo)*,

Wolf Grey (Vallejo)*,

Black Wash (Vallejo)*,

Pallid Wych Flesh (GW),

*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)

WIP TAU 6

GOLD:

Underrust (Warplock Bronze GW – like mix of Vallejo Airs),

Blighted Gold (P3),

Brass Balls (P3),

Mix 1:1 Strong Tone Ink (AP) + Soft Tone Ink (AP),

 

PURPLE OSL:

Warlord Purple (Vallejo)*,

White*,

Purple Tone Ink (AP)*,

White points,

Purple Tone Ink (AP) + Medium glazed,

*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)

Desert Rock Bases 8

BASES:

TUTORIAL: PAINTING DESERT ROCK BASES

SKIN:

Shadow Grey (GW),

Shadow Grey (GW) + Frostbite (P3),

Shadow Grey (GW) + Frostbite (P3) 1:2,

Frostbite (P3), soft drybrush

WIP TAU 15

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Nazroth

July 2016

MIESIĄC LIPIEC 2016

Last month I’ve presented a Warhammer 40,000 TAU Work in Progress picture… Well, July was all about the Tau. Just like that – except for one week of compulsory holidays that I had to take, the entirety of July was Tau centered. Not that I minded it. I had a blast with Tau minis, starting with some cool looking Battlesuits, through smaller ones and heroes, ending up with a pile of Fire Warriors, Pathfinders and Drones. Almost entire army painted in two waves throughout one month. A hell of a challenge, but to my surprise it went smooth. The overall effect looks cool and this army will soon roam the tournaments so stay frosty!

Warhammer 40,00 TAU EMPIRE – View gallery…

 TAU SECOND WAVE 3

TAU FIRST WAVE 1

TAU Stormsurge 5

TAU Riptide 9

TAU Ghostkeel 8

TAU Stealsthsuits 1

TAU Pathfinders 2

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Nazroth

TUTORIAL: PAINTING DESERT ROCK BASES

Below is a quick five-colour Step-by-step about painting rocky desert bases. I used this method to base a big army of wh40k Tau – be sure to see the end results in GALLERY: WARHAMMER 40,000 TAU lvl 3

I USED:

  • Airbrush,
  • Large flat brush,
  • Regular brush,
  • Black undercoat,
  • German Red Brown (Vallejo) Surface Primer,
  • Earth (Vallejo Game Air),
  • Light Brown (Vallejo Model Air),
  • European Dust (Vallejo Wash),
  • Flayed One Flesh (GW),

 

Desert Rock Bases 2

1  I have undercoated (Airbrush) the entire base with Black paint. To properly undercoat the jagged edges of cork I've added some water to the plack paint and then used a Large flat brush to apply the mixture over this surface.

Desert Rock Bases 3

2  I have airbsrushed German Red Brown onto the entire base. It does not had to be precise, just enought to cover the cork and some bigger flats of sand.

Desert Rock Bases 4

3  Still using airbrush I've applied Earth colour over the surface. This time I ensured that some areas of the cork will be less covered than the others. The process was almost random - just picked some spots to have more paint.

Desert Rock Bases 5

4  Light Brown followed, being airbrushed over the base. Once again I tried to cover some spots better than the others. This time tho I tried not to paint over sand too much, just some delicate puffs of paint.

Desert Rock Bases 6

5  Once the paint was utterly dry I sprayed European Dust over the entire base. The layer had to be thin, just enought to cover the base without leaving any stains.

Desert Rock Bases 7

6  Lastly I used a large flat brush to drybrushed the entire base with Flayed One Flesh. Once it was done I also edged some major edges of the cork with the same colour. Clean black rant of the base followed.

Desert Rock Bases 8

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Nazroth

REVIEW: HOBBYZONE ‘MODULAR WORKSHOP SYSTEM’

Many names are given to this place. We call it a workshop, a working desk, a hobby spot. Each of us has his own nickname with which he adresses this special place, and it is special cause no two are alike! Filled with brush stands, cans, mini-organizers, boxes, shelves, holders, cutting mats, pads and a variety of tools – working spaces come in many different shapes and forms. Still one vital trait stands out and is common among working spaces – they all are temples of our hobby and as such are treated with love and care.

For me a Workbench is an altar. Each time I add a small detail – be it a single accessory holder, a new brush can, or a new addition to my modular workshop system – I feel like a builder expanding an antic temple to stand even higher and wider – all to the glory of the gods. And just as such I tend to hire the best architects and artists from around the globe to lend me their skills…

workbench new 3

The bulk of my personal altar is mostly made out of HobbyZone’s ‘Modular Workshop System’. I have expanded this set three times by now and am sure to purchase even more pieces, just as the opportunity presents itself. As it happened, couple of days ago I felt the need to expand my Workbench a bit and ordered two new pieces of HZ ‘Modular Workshop System’. So as a happy customer and a total fanboy of HobbyZone I wanted to share with you some insight into their fantastic offer.

QUALITY:

One of the two most important things about HobbyZone’s products is quality. It can be seen in every detail, starting with how these items are packed, how they look like, with nice, almost stylish combination of white and plywood. Add to it the width of all the outer casings and inner ‘holding’ walls which makes these things durable and reliable in many crisis situations. Also each piece is designed to withstand stress of moving them around with additional waight on top. Walls are clamped together providing a sturdy structure and on top of that there are actual magnets inserted into the construction to help you keep everything in place.

HZ 10

HZ 11

FUNCTIONALITY:

Second most important thing about HobbyZone’s Modular Workshop is functionality. OK, I haven’t tested all the different parts of ‘Modular Workshop System’, but hey – the entire point is to pick a set that would suit your needs best! Right now my set consists of three drawer modules, one paint module, one showcase module and one brushes and tools module with an addition of eight paint hangers. Each of these items prooved to be usefull to me and I don’t see a way it can be further improoved. And I am a guy who tends to redesign stuff to better suit his needs – It’s just that HobbyZone’s stuff is cool as it is.

HZ 9

HZ 12

PACKING:

I believe that the way an item is packed corresponds directly to it’s quality and the way a custumer will perceive it. I appreciate when an Item I spent my money on is well packed (cared for). That being sayed – I just love the way HobbyZone stuff is packed. Each item has it’s own box, filled with bubble wrap. Inside you will find an instruction and all the pieces required to ‘build’ particular item (except for glue, but which hobbyist does not have that already?). By now I know exactly what I would see inside a new HobbyZone box – even so each unpacking is still a pleasant experience.

HZ 1

HZ 2

HZ 3

HZ 4

HZ 5

HZ 6

FRIENDLY:

Each piece of HobbyZone ‘Modular Workshop System’ is designed to be user friendly and easy to assemble. No tools are required to put these things together. With a nice and easy to understand instruction (that comes with each set), I was able to put this module together in less than five minutes. Half an hour later when glue was dry, I was able to use this piece.

 

HZ 7

HZ 8

AFFORDABLE:

Each hobbyist is probably going to see the matter of price differently. For me the quality and functionality of HobbyZone’s ‘Modular Workshop System’ is well ballanced with a price oscillating between 10-20€/medium piece. Purchased items are shiped within 72hrs from purchase (during working days). HobbyZone is well stocked in it’s stuff. Don’t know how about you, but I totally appreciate it. If you still not into it – just check out this MIND BLOWING STICKER!

HZ xd

For me HobbyZone’s stuff is totally 10/10. If you struggle to keep your workbench organized do not waste your time – just go to HobbyZone.pl/en(EU) / HobbyZone.biz(USA) and change your life for better. Zapisz

Zapisz

Zapisz

Zapisz

Zapisz

Zapisz

Nazroth