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Author Archives: Nazroth

“THE COLONY” SPECIAL PROJECT part seven

It’s been almost four months since I have ‘finished’ The Colony Special Project. Such grand endavours are the reason I’m into painting and miniatures wargaming. That wondrous feel of completion once a huge project hits the finish line. It always comes with a great satisfaction but once the dust settles, a void starts to grow inside my heart. I’m happy with results, yet  long for the ‘process of creation’. That is why I consider every major project to be alive for at least as long as I am. In case of The Colony – well, a gaming table could always be improoved or use some more scenery. That is the exact way of thinking which led me to writing another part of this article…

THE COLONY - part seven: BEYOND

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That being said I must confess that I wasn’t able to invest much time into The Colony in the last few months. Commissions fell on me from all around the globe and I lived a prosperous life by lending my brush to all those in need of decent painting. Still, once in a while, between commissions I stumbled upon some cool looking items that just screamed to be unleashed onto my gaming board in form of some sweet looking terrain. Many sources provided me with items of great value, among them my girlfriend (cosmetics), my friend Garran (his personal collection of ‘cool stuff’) and even some of befriended companies like Micro Art Studio, or Ekograf, who (knowing my tastes) sent me some of their leftovers. I sincerly thank all of you, my beloved providers, and proudly announce that I couldn’t resist the temptation and used all the items, you so willingly parted with, to further expand my scenery collection and bring The Colony’s theme beyond the bounds of my early predictions.

 

From Scratch

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Anyone remembers that picture? It was published at the end of “THE COLONY” SPECIAL PROJECT part six article. Some of this stuff still awaits being used, but more than half of it has already reincarnated in a form of these scenery pieces:

New Sculpture

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A futuristic sculpture made out of a Maybelline eyelashes mascara. Once I stole this precious item from my GF’s secret stash I had a real wrinkle with how to use it. So many ideas, including an antenna, a column, a laser tube – in the end I couldn’t decide so I got back into a well known territory of futuristic sculpures. It is only fair to use items stolen from my GF as pieces of art, otherwise she might not be swayed to turn a blind eye on my theft 😛

Strip Cage

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I got that awesome Dactari from my Girlfriend somewhere along two years of gaming. Untill now I hadn’t had use for it, as I was more into Corregidor-like miniatures, but finally I got the idea, made up what MDF pieces I will need to ‘cage’ this chick and ordered them from a friendly company. Once I got the stuff I just build the cage and here’s the result. It makes foir a nice rooftop piece or a great standalone scenery piece.

Experimental Tubes

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These can be used as objectives or just some random scenery pieces. I made them out of HDF pieces, leftovers and small plastic tubes* filled with shower gell. The tubes were given to me by Garran with which I tend to play Infinity, but also exchange concepts during our long painting/modelling talks. The guy is so nice as to share some of his stuff with me and I try hard not to let this gesture go to waste.

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Sexy Pleksi

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This is another source of endless inspiration. These are some throwbacks from Micro Art Studio’s production. MAS is very serious about their products – each and every one is checked for defects before it proceeds to packing. Once a defect is discovered, all imperfect products are kept as samples to avoid same kind of mistake in the future. In case of large quantities tho – some items may be sent to a friendly modeller to be used for awesome scenery building! One might even say that these can be used in a variety of crazy ways…

Distance Keepers

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Six bridges are a bit too much on a 48×48″ table so I designed these scenery pieces to help me setup and then keep the gaming board in order. Simple yet effective, adding depth to streets and a nice futuristic note to the overall visual effect.

Low Planters

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Made with playability in mind, these low planters are perfect to fill my choosen theme of white/orange/green scenery. They fit both at the ground level and in the rooftops. I made these using pleksi rulers to provide detail, while the rest is just plasticard cut to fit the empty spaces. The visuals vere enchanced by plants and HDF ‘orange’ pieces.

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Plant Compartments

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This plant compartment module is a pearl among the scenery pieces I’ve created lately. I’m really happy with how it came out. To think that I struggled for almost a year before I decided how to use two Yves Saint Laurent caps. But let’s get to the way these items (there are actually two identical scenery pieces) came to life. Some time ago I got a set of used up cutter casings from Ekograf to use in my quest of bringing imagination to reality. My friend Garran was the one to dig these out specially with me in mind (Once again thanks mate!). Once I layed my hands on these fine pieces I knew that something wondrous will come out of them. So I started planning and was quickly drawn to still unused Yves Saint Lauren caps. Their hexagonal shape fit perfectly to The Colony’s theme so I based the entire construction on them. After adding couple of PCV pieces to make the construction higher I used plexi rulers to add detail, then used cutter casings and some HDF leftovers to build particular compartments and mounted them around the central column. For the plants I used a fake Bonsai tree made out of gum. It was to fragile to be used as a standalone scenery piece, but inside the compartments it could easily outlive all the other terrain pieces. So I used glue and some tricks of my own to enchance the vicualts of tree stupms, added fake greenery and mounted these fine looking plants inside the compartments. ‘Orange’ elements followed and themed paint job done the rest. Now I have two LOF blocking pieces of scenery, that provide a lot of cover, fill empty spaces between the buildings and go along with the theme.

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Completing the Theme

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One thing still stood out of The Colony’s theme. The Micro Art Studio’s gaming mat (which I just love and don’t want to ever switch for anything else) was screwing with my colour scheme too much. I’ve figured to try and paint it, using sprays and airbrush. For this purpose I’ve airbrushed the entire mat with Vallejo’s German Red Brown, then used Vallejo’s white primer to lighten some spots and finished with Games Workshop’s Zandri Dust primer spray. Once the last layer was dry I moisted the gaming mat and used a piece of cloth on it to ensure that no paint will leave marks on my terrain, miniatures and accessories. Must say that MAS’s gaming mat holds the paint perfectly, while keeping it’s previous properties. The picture does not entirely cover the hue but rest assured that now the gaming mat fits perfectly to The Colony.

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Epilogue

Last four months might not seen me The Colony-centered, still I’ve managed to improove the inicial concept of this gaming table. I’m really glad to be able to transform this:

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Into this:

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Are more upgrades incomming? As long as I live and am into Infinity – that’s not a matter of if, but when. Stay tuned for more of The Colony.

Gallery

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You want to learn more about The Colony? Check out the entire series using THIS TAG

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Nazroth

COLOUR RECIPES: INFINITY YU-JING JINYIWEI

Here are some Colour Recipes for Infinity Yu-Jing lvl 5 from GALLERY: INFINITY OTHER lvl 3-5. Please take note that this is a simple colour scheme, not covering multiple overlapping layers and blends inbetween, that lead to the final product. It is supposed to be used as guidline not a step-by-step.

Infinity Yu-Jing Kanren y1

RED outfits:

Black Undercoat,

German Red Brown (Vallejo),

Wazdakka Red (GW),

Wazdakka Red (GW) + Troll Slayer Orange (GW),

Red Tone Ink (AP),

Troll slayer Orange (GW) + Medium,

Lugganath Orange (GW),

 

YELLOW armour:

Moldy Ochre (P3)*,

Moldy Ochre (P3) + White*,

White l&p,

Lammenters Yellow (GW),

White l&p,

Soft Tone Ink (AP) + Medium,

White l&p,

WIP Kanrens 1

BLACK/GREY outfits & weapons:

Black Undercoat,

Skavenblight Dinge (GW),

Fenrisian Grey (GW),

Pallid Wych Flesh (GW) l&p,

Dark Tone Ink (AP),

Pallid Wych Flesh (GW) l&p,

White l&p,

 

BASES gray:

Black Undercoat,

Eshin Grey (GW),

Administratum Grey (GW) soft drybrush

Infinity Yu-Jing Kanren x2
l&p – lines and points,

*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)

View the INFINITY GALLERY…Zapisz

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Nazroth

September 2016

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September started rather slowly with a major project for this and the upcomming month being prepared. I used every opportunity to divert my attention elsewheresome while gathering strengh for what’s to come. This way I have painted some Infinity miniatures, adding them to both Infinity MISCAELLOUS gallery and my own Infinity CORREGIDOR. After that I moved to terrain painting, starting with some cool Micro Art Studio scenery for a friend, then moving to The Colony Special Project with a major update. Once I was done with all the ‘small’ stuff I’ve charged head-on into Infinity TOHAA commission with which I spent entire second half of the month. Usually at this point I woild have taunted next month, but I know exactly what it’ll bring – more Tohaa and that is a good thing actually 🙂

WORK IN PROGRESS – view gallery…

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Infinity MISCAELLOUS – View gallery…

Infinity Yu-Jing Kanren y1

Infinity CORREGIDOR – View gallery…

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“The Colony” Special Project – View gallery…

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Other stuff…

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Micro Art Studio Objective Room 1

Micro Art Studio Objective Room 2

Micro Art Studio concrete walls set 3

Micro Art Studio concrete walls set 2

Micro Art Studio concrete walls set 1

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Nazroth

REVIEW: RIGHT ARM LABS WARGAMING TERRAIN

If you are reading this blog regularly, then you already know that my life is not entirely composed of painting – some gaming is also involved! Here and there a more gaming-centered article pops out and today’s review is just such an article. If you came here for a painting article, please do not be discouraged and still give thise one a try – who knows, maybe you will end up ordering a bunch of miniatures along with some cool looking terrain, or at least see something new?

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RIGHT ARM LABS

I stumbled upon Right Arm Labs during Polish National Championships of Infinity the game. This friendly, wargaming terrain producing, company visited the event, providing awesome looking terrain pieces for couple of gaming boards. Many times have I gasped with admiration seeing how cool looking and playable their gaming boards were. Unfortunatelly for me, back then I didn’t play a single game on their terrain, but in the end I won a painting competition and received some gifts funded by guys from Right Arm Labs. (Lucky me!). So I took my spoils of war back home and gave them a try in couple of games. Here’s my thoughts on them…

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QUALITY: 9/10

If I’m to categorise Right Arm Labs products I’d say they are of a good quality. The material used to construct them is durable and the parts fit perfectly to one another. They are easy to put together which is uncommon in the market of wargaiming terrain. Another uncommon thing is that they come pre-painted and not in some dismissive way, but a totally nice looking, precise and ready to play one. Sure, the colours could use some juice, but it’s better than regular HDF!

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VISUALS: 7/10

Right Arm Labs took an interresting approach to visual aspect of their terrain. Exteriors are a bit crude and some features were clearly left out to make these terrain pieces more playable. At the same tame there’s a lot of detail and pre-painting. Sure it’s not Zen Terrain complex design or Micro Art Studio’s fine style, but still it appeals to the eye isn’t it? We must remember that there are plenty one-man-companies that produce flat walled cubic buildings and don’t even bother to add detail. Right Arm Labs proudly stands above the latter.

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PLAYABILITY 10/10:

Along with nice looks the Right Arm Labs Terrain comes with high playability. Flat surfaces and sharp angles are perfect for Infinity and will fit in many different games including Warhammer 40,000. Height and dimensions of the objects and terrain pieces goes well with 28mm scale, providing enough cover and options for our miniatures to explore. While smaller scenery pieces can be mounted on bases and used as objectives, the buildings are designed in a way that lets you manipulate their features between games! Just take a look at this interresting Control Room:

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Now let’s break it into particular pieces…

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Each of these pieces, even the floor, is two sided, with one side being more military themed and the other more industrial…

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Walls can be switched at a whim and go smooth into special sliders designed to accomodate them…

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I see many different uses for this kind of building, including but not limited to: Objective Room, bunker, regular building, urban platform…

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FUNCTIONALITY: 10/10

They come pre-painted and let you manipulate features for more re-playability, but most of all they are well designed with particular pieces being held in place by sturdy elements. Even doors are made of two layers – one fitting perfectly into the wall, while the other is holding it firmly in place. Also, due to the clever construction, the walls seem much thicker than they actually are. The key feature is that the entire construction can be easily assembled/disasembled in a matter of seconds.

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PRICE: 4/10

Price is the only thing setting me on edge when thinking about these splendid terrain pieces. A complex objective room along with a roof that must be purchased separately will see you spend around 50€ to obtain. I’m not suggesting it is not worth the price – I’m saying it’s just a lot for a single building. In comparisson for this price you will get not one but between two to seven Micro Art Studio’s buildings! It is a well known fact that most of us would rather spend majority of their hobby cash on miniatures instead of a gaming board. Still if you count in the time and resources required to paint a single building – the initial price of Right Arm Labs terrain does not look so bad.

 

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SUMMARY: 8/10

Personally I think that Right Arm Labs does a nice job with their terrain. Their products are not ‘designed for Infinity’ but rather designed for Wargaming, but ideal for Infinity. I’m willing to forget the price issue due to awesome playability and unprecedented solutions. I can only recommend you to try some of their stuff yourself. I’m sure that you won’t regret it. To contact Right Arm Labs check out their Facebook page, Instagram profile or write’em an e-mail. (This is their preffered way of providing you with particular prices.)

If you have some experience with Right Arm Labs products – I’ll be glad to read your opinion in the comments 😉

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Nazroth

COLOUR RECIPES: INFINITY USARF

Here are some Colour Recipes for Infinity USAriadna Ranger Force from GALLERY: INFINITY USARIADNA. Please take note that this is a simple colour scheme, not covering multiple overlapping layers and blends inbetween, that lead to the final product. It is supposed to be used as guidline not a step-by-step.

Ariadna lvl comp 1

 

Armour & Uniforms:

Black Undercoat,

Dark Earth (Vallejo),*

Light Brown (Vallejo),*

Light Brown (Vallejo) points,*

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),

Flayed One Flesh (GW),

Pallid Wych Flesh (GW) l&p,

 

BLACK/GREY outfits & weapons:

Black Undercoat,

Skavenblight Dinge (GW),

Fenrisian Grey (GW),

Pallid Wych Flesh (GW) l&p,

Dark Tone Ink (AP),

Pallid Wych Flesh (GW) l&p,

White l&p,

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BROWN elements:

Olive Drab (Vallejo),

Gorthor Brown (GW),

Gorthor Brown (GW) + Pallid Wych Flesh (GW),

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),

Karak Stone (GW) l&p,

 

SKIN:

Bugmans Glow (GW),

Dwarf Flesh (GW),

Dwarf Flesh (GW) + Pale Flesh (Vallejo),

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),

Pale Flesh (Vallejo),

Pale Flesh (Vallejo) + Pallid Wych Flesh (GW) l&p,

 

Ariadna grunts foxtrot van zant 1

*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)

l&p – lines and points,

View the INFINITY GALLERY…

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Nazroth

TUTORIAL: PAINTING MICRO ART STUDIO CONCRETE WALLS

SbS MAS Walls 1

Micro Art Studio does some fantastic paint job on their stuff. At some level it might even be considered a bit intimidating. Thoughts like ‘This stuff is amazing, but I will never be able to paint it anything like they did’ had kept me from purchasing some awesome terrain pieces in the past. I bet that some of you feel the same right now. Well – that is clearly a bad way of thinking. That’s why I prepared this small Step-by-step painting tutorial with which I hope to bring you closer to your ideal of a Gaming Table.

For this purpose I picked a Concrete Wall Set 2 by Micro Art Studio and tried to copy their style with a small variation of the colour scheme.

I USED:

  • Airbrush, (Harder & Steinbeck Infinity CR plus 0,4mm nozzle)
  • Small brush,
  • Mechanicus Standard Grey (GW) Undercoat,
  • Airbrush Flow Improver (Vallejo ),
  • White (Vallejo) Surface Primer,
  • Light Brown (Vallejo Game Air),
  • Soft Tone Ink (Army Painter),
  • Light Livery Green (Vallejo Game Air),
  • Waywatcher Green (GW) Glaze,
  • Streaking Grime (AK Interactive) Weathering effect,

 

SbS MAS Walls 2

SbS MAS Walls 3

1  After unpacking the set I have cleared any extent of resin and prepared each piece for the undercoat.

I used THIS METHOD

SbS MAS Walls layer 1 GW Mechanicus Standard Grey

2  I have covered entire set with Games Workshop's Mechanicus Standard Grey primer. Usually I use Black Undercoat first, but in this case the surface was smooth and I knew it will work well with a Grey undercoat. Do not feel obliged to use the exact same primer - you can easily use Vallejo Grey Surface Primer instead and Airbrush it over the surface. I used spray just to save some time.

SbS MAS Walls layer 2 Vallejo White Primer

3  I gently arbrushed Vallejo White Surface Primer over the set. First I tried to cover entire surface from afar (15cm distance, constant flow, see pic - dark spots), then I  outlined center of each flat surface with additional layers (5cm distance, soft puffs of paint, see pic - light spots). This resulted in the surfaces gaining some extra shadows.

SbS MAS Walls layer 3 Vallejo Light Brown

4  I used airbrush to apply Vallejo Light Brown onto the lower parts of each Wall piece. I mixed a bit of Airbrush Flow Improver to build up a nice transition from brown to white. The key is to paint in smooth lines, then go backwards building up colour. Too much paint in the same spot will result in paint spilling all around and ruining the paint job.

SbS MAS Walls layer 4 AP Soft Tone Ink

5  Then I moved to Army Painter's Soft Tone Ink and airbrushed it over Light Brown, with an addition of single strokes over the recesses of four oval Wall pieces. I was careful not to apply too much paint as in this particular case I wanted to build up a nice hume of colour, instead of 'washing' the surface with it.

SbS MAS Walls layer 5 Vallejo Light Livery Green copy

6  Then I applied a thin layer of Vallejo Light Livery Green over and around each lamp. A lot of small puffs of paint helped me to keep the base shape of light around the lamps. Even if one or two puffs went too far, they were so delicate as to remain unseen once the majority of colour was applied. 

SbS MAS Walls layer 6 GW Waywatcher Green copy

7  To strenghten the colour I used a small brush and applied Games Workshop's Waywacher Green onto the lamps. I tried not to exeed the boundries of their slots and in case I did - I used a small piece of paper towel to clear the paint out.

SbS MAS Walls layer 7 AK streaks

8  Finally I applied AK Interactive Streaking Grime. Using a small brush I poured this weathering effect paint into holes, then smeared it dow with a tip of the brush. The more irregular it went, the better to the overall visual effect.

In the end I used a template provided by Reycast to airbrush a small Nomad prank onto the wall, with a Vallejo Black Paint. What’s left now is to purchase Micro Art Studio’s S-F Graffiti Transfers and job will be done.

Here is a result of my paint job:

Micro Art Studio concrete walls set 1

Micro Art Studio concrete walls set 2

Micro Art Studio concrete walls set 3

 

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Nazroth

August 2016

MIESIĄC SIERPIEŃ 2016

August – time to relax and tan in the sun 🙂 For me it was also a time to close Warhammer 40,000 Tau commission along with Epic 40,000 Ork Clans! After closing up both of these I’ve spent some time preparing a template for Corregidor Bases, then sent them straight to Micro Art Studio to be mass produced! That’s not all as throughout the month many test commissions came in, including Infinity ALEPH, Infinity USAriadna, AVP Predators and some Dragonlance miniatures. I’ve spent some time with them and even managed to paint a final piece for the ‘I AM NOMAD’ promo campaign. All of this in just one month XD

Warhammer 40,00 TAU EMPIRE – View gallery…

TAU Third Wave big

TAU Hammerhead 4

Epic 40,000 ORK CLANS – View gallery…

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Ork Clans Evil Sunz Mekboy Gargant & Tinbots 2

Infinity MISCAELLOUS – View gallery…

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Infinity ALEPH – comming soon…

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ALEPH Asura 5

ALEPH Asura 4

Infinity USAriadna – View gallery…

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Aliens vs Predator – View gallery…

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Dragonlcance – test commission…

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Dragonlance miniatures 2

Corregidor Bases – Work in Progress…

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Nazroth

REVIEW: DISPLAYS AND GLASS DOMES

Have you ever created a work that you were so proud of as to arrange it in a display or glass dome? If so – you probably know that finding such is a quest in itself. With few ‘worthy’ miniatures of my own I have wandered the web in search of proper displays and glass domes. I’ve seen many forum threads and online stores but to no avail. At some point I even abandoned all hope. Stores that might provide me with good quality items, that I was searching for, seemed to elude me. Years passed by, while I grew more and more tired of my unsuccessful search.You see the biggest issue about the displays in modelling is their size. It’s difficult to find a display of the exact dimensions to suit 28mm scaled miniatures. Usually what’s available for purchase is huge in comparrison to what you are looking for and in worse cases – of bad quality.

 

Fortunately for me, the search ended abruptly few weeks ago when I stumbled upon not one but two ideal sources of the items I was looking for. After making a test purchase I’ve decided to share with you some the insight…

 

IZMOD DISPLAYS

Izmod is a Polish company producing Displays for miniatures and models. The company seems to be a one-man bussiness with a small online store. The owner is a kind and trustworthy person, open to ideas (at least that’s my opinion) so I asked him about few things and  got to know that right now he is preparing an english version of his website. Good news is that anyone interrested in the purchase can still contact him via e-mail, as it is possible for him to sell and send the items abroad. He also informed me about the differences in the wood structure and the ways his displays are being glued. I’m sure that he is ready to answer any questions regarding eventual purchase, while his producs – well, just see for yourself…

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QUALITY:

Quality of Izmod’s displays is really nice. Depending on the choosen type of wood, the base elements are smooth and cut in a way that compliments the shape of the base. The base comes laquered and feels great in touch, while also being paint-friendly. The plexi displays came to me unscratched (excluding one that was damaged by the post office and exchanged shortlya fter with a new one). The walls are perfectly translucent and edges are rather even. I say ‘rather’ cause here and there some small irregularities appear, but I would still give them 8/10. The only flaw I could find is the way the outer cuting edges are rought in some places, but I’m sure that these can be further polished once I’ll start preparing these displays for the exposition.

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PRICE:

Price of these items is fair, varying between 13-25€ with no item from the above picture being even close to the upper price. I’m sure that once you will check out this offer you will find the price well balanced.

LARGE SELECTION:

As I have already mentioned – these items come in a large selection. A variety of shapes and sizes with bases being cut in few differend ways and laquered in different colours. For me being able to choose from between the size of 6/6/6cm and 50/35/35cm is just a thing of beauty. To sweeten the deal, the displays come in few types of wood.

Displays and Glass Domes 6

 

Maybe I’m hyped a bit, but I just want to scream ‘awesome!’ about these things. If you are looking for a proper miniature display – be sure to give Izmod a shot.

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IKEA GLASS DOMES

Everyone knows IKEA. So many houses felt it’s presence these days. Every kind of house related stuff can be found there, still I was somehow shocked to see a series of cool looking glass domes there. Maybe that’s because I was hunting for a fine glass dome with a wooden base for couple of year – don’t know. What I know is that once I accidentally caught a glimpse of a glass dome – I just stood there mesmerized untill me gf bumped into me asking what am I looking at so intensely. It was like a dream come true. Just look at these beauties and you will understand…

Displays and Glass Domes ikea ikea

QUALITY:

In comparison to what I already had at home, the quality of Ikea’s glass domes is very good. Glass is smooth and translucent while bases are perfectly shaped. Some small flaws can bee found here and there, but the overall visuals of the domes is just cool. Also the glass is thin making these domes light (which can be very helpful while cleaning the insides).

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Displays and Glass Domes ikea 3

PRICE:

Both domes are priced around 10€ which is more than a fair price. I remember purchasing an unbased glass dome for more than 15€, with glass being dimm and blurry (can be seen in the above pics). I don’t know how these will be priced in your place, but be sure to check out both items in the closest Ikea.

Small glass dome code: 303.272.52

Large glass dome code: 403.273.03

Displays and Glass Domes ikea 1

Here’s my advice for you. If you have any advice for me in return – be sure to leave it in the comments section – I’ll be happy to expand my collection of displays and glass domes.

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Nazroth

TUTORIAL: WHEN HANDS SAFETY WENT WRONG

Scarred hand x

“Khorne cares not from whence the blood flows, only that it does…” and in case of our favorite hobby – Let’s just say that it sustains Khorne much more than you can imagine. If you haven’t had any nasty damage done to your hands during hobby labour, than you probably don’t know what true modelling is about! To be short – Yes, a lot of nasty cuts and damage happens to modellers all over the world at daily basis. Most basic are the modelling knife cuts and punctures but believe me – there’s plenty of more serious damage going on all the time. How can we prevent such damage? Well, otherwise than being extra careful – and this not always helps – we can’t. Now you probably wander ‘so what is it that this article is actually about?’ – a fine question, let me answer: This article is all about what happens after you’ve injured your precious hands.

1  BE PREPARED

There’s nothing worse than being caught off guard. Be sure to anticipate an injury at some point and keep some purified water, plasters and a bandage nearby – in case you would need them. Also it is recommended to know where in a hand the most important veins are located. The best way to learn it is to GOOGLE IT. This way, once your hands start bleeding, you will have both confidence and means to deal with an injury the right way…

Scarred hand veins

2  STAY CALM

Nasty hand injuries happen but unless they are located on the inside of your wrist, or you’ve just chopped off a finger – they shouldn’t pose an immediate threat. Sure, they are bloody to a point when you start to wander if death is what’s comming next – but hey – not a chance for that. In worst case scenario a nerve could’ve been damaged, but these tend to regenerate over time. So no matter what – keep calm and reasonable…

Scarred hand calm

3  FIRST AID

Once you’ve located the cut, make sure to clean-up the wound using purified water. (Do not use alcohol!). It is very important, especially due to workbenches being full of dust, sand, pieces of plastic and overall dirt – modelling leftovers. Once the wound is clean, use a piece of bandage or a plaster to cover it (Do not use cotton whool as it will stick to the wound making any later change of dressing difficult).  To help stop the bleeding keep the wounded hand up, pressing the bandaged wound with your free hand…

Scarred hand 1st aid

4  PROFESSIONAL HELP

Most wounds do not require professional assistance. Small cuts are rather easy to deal with, but sometimes – when things went bananas – it’s good to try and seek a Doctors help. Better to have a nasty wound sutured than to parade with a malformed finger to the rest of your days, especially if there’s a chance that hand’s basic functions are endangered (I know the latter from my own experience, as one of my fingers is almost out of the game). Be sure to call/visit a doctor ASAP if any of the below are true:

  • The wound won’t stop bleeding,
  • There is a tension in the wounded finger, you are unable to perform some movements,
  • You are unabple to straighten the finger/s,
  • You feel like some really crazy shit is going on with the wound and it should be cared by a pro,

Scarred hand help

 

MY OWN ADVENTURE:

During my time as a modeller I had my share of some really nasty injuries. The testimony of theese is left over my hands in form of scars. I even had one of my right hand’s knuckles damaged to a point of no turning back to it’s previous function. Still the most bloody of my hand injuries took place in 2011. I remember like if it was yesterday. A sunny day during a weekend with me working on the floor near my old workbench. I was preparing a series of terrain pieces for Warhammer Fantasy Battles ( Yup – there was such a game in the old days 😛 ). I was cutting some styrofoam into basic shape for hills. Done a lot of these and let routine take over. All of a sudden I felt a burning pain in my left thumb.

Scarred hand y

As it happened – I almost completely sliced off the entire top part of my thumb’s knuckle along with a piece of styrodure. At first there was no blood, only pain and a bit of ‘what the hell just happened?’. Moments later blood gushed from the wound. I thought that maybe I’ve injured some vital vein or something – there was a lot of blood, at least much more than ever before. Pressing the injury I’ve checked out google for any information about possibility of veins being in the vicinity of the wound. Fortunatelly for me I cut a knuckle along with it’s neighborhood, instead of slicing through the inner left part of the finger. So I’ve calmed down and cleaned up the wound. First using plain water (not so smart, but I’m hardcore when it comes to injuries – what doesn’t kill me, makes me stronger), then preparing a makeshift bandage…

Scarred hand 1(That looks nasty doesn’t it? That’s how a hand injury looks like – don’t let yourself be overwhelmed with panic once you cut yourself this way.)

I took things into my own hands (or rather hand, as the other one was currently out of commission) and prepared a special form of dressing for the injured finger. My reasoning went like this: I didn’t wanted to go to hospital, await for three to five hours to finally be stitched. I also wanted to keep my finger operational in the future (both near and distant). I wasn’t thinking smart, just followed modellers calling on this. I cut two splints out of a coca-cola bottle, desinfected them with alcohol and used a plaster to secure the finger with them. I also bandaged the wound itself and actually taped the entire construction. This dressing was to be switched couple of times a day – leaving more and more of the finger in the open so that the wound could breathe. The key point was for the wound to stay immobile, not to let it open and start bleeding again…

Scarred hand 2

This looks crazy funny when I see it now – but back then I was proud of my creations. Be it by a blessing or merely luck following idiots – it worked. Right now a scar is in the place of former wound, but at least the finger works fine and no nerve has been severed. It is fully operational with all it’s functions being kept.

Scarred hand 3

So – we’ve learned, we’ve laught – don’t do that at home etc. The final advice I can provide you with is once again – keep calm. Sooner or later an injury will happen to you – keep panic at bay and follow with the first aid. If you’ve prepared yourself beforehand – it will go much smoother and the wound would have a bigger chance to heal nicely.

 

Hope this one is helpful.

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Nazroth

REVIEW: BRUSH CLASH KOLIBRI vs WINSOR & NEWTON

Are you hungry for spilled paint? Ripped hair, broken handles? Another fight of the century is upon us! Today, in the left corner, we have a Kolibri 88 ‘3’! This, standing 7 inch tall, 2 grams of a brush is ready to fight till death against a half inch taller and one gram heavier – Winsor & Newton Series 7 ‘2’! Will ~8$ Kolibri prewail or will it be crushed by ~12$ Winsor & Newton? Both fighters seem to be in shape so let us begin!

Brush Clash 2 4

Both brushes used are of similar properities, tips shape and size so I decided to clash them against one another. For the purpose of this clash I used Warhammer 40,000 Tau miniatures. Got plenty of those on my desk, awaiting further paint job – so I seized the opportunity. I also used a mix of Vallejo Rust, Bright Bronze, Black and Thinner (Which I called the ‘Underrust’). After checking out the paint and preparing some working space – I’ve started with Kolibri 88 ‘3’, painting ten miniatures with the ‘Underrust’. The surface being painted was rather small, but I tried to compensate by quantity of the miniatures being painted…

Kolibri after 10

Kolibri went through this test really nice. Regardless of not cleaning the brush with water mid-testing, the tip stayed sharp with no hair being separated (Remember Citadel Layer S from the last figt?). Head worked very well, but at first I had to get accustomed to it’s softness. Painting with Kolibri for the first time in my career was a pleasant experience.

I switched to Winsor & Newton Series 7 ‘2’, checked the tip and went all ahead full with another ten miniatures…

Winsor and Newton after 10

The painting experience was almost identical to Kolibri. At some point a single hair split from the tip but rolling it in the paint reshaped the tip to it’s former shape. This happened two times during the ten-miniatures test, but other than that I did not encounter any alarming behaviour of the brush. Main difference between these two brushes was the softness of the head. While Kolibri was pretty soft, W&N stayed firm throughout the test.

I counldn’t decide which brush performed better thus I decided to continue the test. This time I went all-in and painted the entire collection of miniatures with four layers of paints including wash. I grouped the miniatures into two similar groups of over 30 pieces and started my work. It took almost four hours to complete (Oh how the time comes and goes)…

Brush Clash allin

Here’s the video from the fight – I filmed the first round so you can see that the fight was a real deal 🙂

RESULTS:

This was a really long battle between two very good brushes. In the end I was able to test both brushes to the extent of their capabilities. I really liked and will certainly paint with both of them from now on, but there can be only one winner of the ‘Brush Clash’. During these four hours of painting I grew accustomed to Kolibri – it felt somehow more pleasant to paint with it. The price, size and weight of the brush have nothing to do with it – it’s just my personal feel. I’m sure it’s because the head of the brush is softer and it was easier for me to operate – at least in this kind of paint job. That is the reason for me to deem Kolibri the winner of the secong Brush Clash, with Winsor & Newton being defeated just by the margin.

If you have any experience with either of these brushes – be sure to leave me a comment with your opinion on it’s performance.

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Nazroth