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Tag Archives: Painting

Special Project: “Nomad Soul”

 Second ‘Special Project’ in 2015! It was emerging between my thoughts once in a while for some time before I was finally motivated to work on it. The crucial point for me was to accidentally bump into an online Painting Contest at Data-Sphere forum. I already had the concept and materials to make this piece so an opportunity for a nice competition was the final push I needed.

This time I choose a Nomad miniature as a centerpiece of the Diorama. It is my favorite faction in Infinity the Game, and the Grenzer model I’ve picked just ‘screamed’ to let him ride that awesome haqqislamic bike. The pose was almost right if only I done something with the coat and the only thing holding me at bay was a pair of hands. In the end I used original Sniper Rifle left hand of a Grenzer, Shotgun right hand of a Jagguar and stripped a Spektr of both arms.PanOceanic antennae was added and after rearrangement of the pose some Green Stuff Sculpting had done the rest.

A ‘concept art’ which shows my overpowering drawing skills.

WIP nomad soul 2

First step was to arrange the miniature on a bike.

WIP nomad soul 1

Some conversion and Greenstuff sculpting.

WIP nomad soul 3

WIP nomad soul 4

Next step was to create a diorama thus fulfilling my mind’s eye concept. I’ve picked a nice candle for a diorama’s base and starterd to work with main arrangement of things…

Preparation of diorama.

WIP nomad soul 5

Basics of diorama and miniature composiotion.

WIP nomad soul 8

WIP nomad soul 6

WIP nomad soul 7

Facture added.

WIP nomad soul 9

Then came the ‘Painting Time’. Usually I start by painting the miniature but this particular project was an exception. I’ve started with diorama instead to be certain that in the end I will be able to paint it correctly. Painting rust and dust is still new to me.

Diorama paintjob in progress.

WIP nomad soul 11

WIP nomad soul 13

WIP nomad soul 12

Once I was sattisfied with diorama’s result I’ve focused all of my attention on the miniature. I tried to begin in accordance with Angel Giraldez’s online Kum Bike tutorial and it wen’t rather off at some point. Still I was able to create something unexpected and extraoridinary if compared to my other miniatures.

The actual miniature preshaded and with red armour in midpainting.

WIP nomad soul 14

WIP nomad soul 15

Something to look like NMM appeared on the bike. Armour lined and shades appplied.

WIP nomad soul 16

WIP nomad soul 17

WIP nomad soul 18

Closing to finish line I’ve figured that something went really wrong. I couldn’t pinpoint the cause – just felt taken aback while observing the pice. It took me half a day of painting different miniatures to finally understand: The diorama sucked! It was a total disaster! There was not enough space for the biker which was posed so that only a small part was visible. Black rant of the base made too much bad contrast while the candle… oh the candle justed didn’t fit…
It went wrong in the forums too as I was told that my ‘OSL looks more like a nuclear blast’ to which I actually agreed…

Bad – bad diorama… bad nuclear blast…

WIP nomad soul 19

WIP nomad soul 20

WIP nomad soul 21

WIP nomad soul 22

I’ve made my mind then and remade the diorama totally. I cut the stuff into pieces which I used to create foundation for another ‘faster, harder, better, stronger’ diorama. This time I picked a much more suitable base for it too. I also fallowed an advice of Claudius Sol and dimmed the OSL.

Diorama cut and rebased.

WIP nomad soul 23

WIP nomad soul 24

WIP nomad soul 26

At some point the diorama needed just the final touches.

WIP nomad soul 25

WIP nomad soul 27

Here’s the final piece: “NOMAD SOUL”

Nomad Soul 1 s

Nomad Soul 4 s

Nomad Soul 7 s

Nomad Sould night 2

View complete Gallery… Like/Don’t like? Vote at CoolMiniOrNot…
Scarhandpainting

Tutorial: Painting Five Layers Technique Metal

Here is a Step-by-step guide of how to paint metal with ‘Five Layers Technique’.

Introduction: Five Layers Technique is easy to learn, simple and rewarding. You can apply almost any colour with it. It may be used both as an Army Paining method or a groundwork for much more advanced paintjob. I personally use this technique most of the time. To learn more please visit: TUTORIAL: ‘FIVE LAYERS TECHNIQUE’

Colour Recipe:

Black undercoat,
Tin Bitz (GW) / Warplock Bronze (GW) / Blighted Gold (P3)
Boltgun Metal (GW) / Gun Metal (AP)
Mithril Silver (GW) /  Shining Silver (AP)
Devlan Mud (wash GW) / Strong Tone (shade AP)
Mithril Silver (GW) /  Shining Silver (AP)

!   You can exchange particular paint for any substitute as long as you keep colour intensity close.

Basics:

Use Black undercoat. The first layer of metal should be painted Tin Bitz. The paintjob must be as thorough as possible, paint should be delivered into recesses but be sure to keep all the details sharp. You can add some water to ease the process. Next, using Boltgun Metal paint all the protruding and flat areas leaving Tin Bitz visible in recesses and near the edges. Using Mithril Silver paint edges, centres of flat areas and all the bulges. Wash all with Devlan Mud (wash a lot). In the end just edge all with Mithril Silver. You can also paint some small scratches and lines in the middle of flat areas.

This picture shows exactly how layers should overlap each other.

1

Example:

Black undercoat,2

Tin Bitz thorough layer,3

Boltgun Metal (scruffy),4

Mithril Silver bulges, protuberances, flat middles,5

Devlan Mud wash (a lot),6

Dried out Devlan Mud,7

Mithril Silver edges, lines, middles,8

Tut x

You should end up with a quick and easy way of painting metal thath both shines with light reflexes and has a nice overall facture. Hope you enjoyed this tutorial.

Scarhandpainting

Tutorial: Painting Five Layers Technique

Here is a technique that I have developed through years of painting and find it most usefull up to this day.

Introduction:

Five Layers Technique is a basic technique of choosing and applying colours. I especially reccomend it for begginers as it is simple, easy to learn, fast and rewarding. You can apply almost every colour using this technique and achieve good results as long as you choose proper paints to do so. It is especially good for either painting entire army ‘tabbletop level’ or preparing a miniature for much more complex paintjob.

The main concept of Five Layers Technique is to paint different colours using five layers of paint. Starting with a foundation layer, covered with base layer, finished with highlights, all being washed and edged. Here’s an example of how does it look like when finished:

Yu Jing 9

Choosing colours:

It does not matter if you have a steady hand and a lot of patience – if you pick your paints badly this method will not work. Choosing proper colours is the key to succeed. The colours should pe picked in this order:

* Base layer: pick up a medium tone colour,
* Foundation layer: choose darked version of the base colour,
– The exception to this rule is if you would like to keep the colour bright such as bone, vibrant purple, creme, yellow, etc. In this case a little bit brighter, preferrably pastelle foundation colour will do.
* Finish layer: choose a brighter version of the base colour.
– Try to keep it the same distance as it is between Base and Foundation layer.
* Wash layer: use either same colour wash or brown.
–  Brown wash fits in most cases. Be aware tho – it will do much damage if you pair it with pink, purple, violet or white.

Here’s and example of a proper layer set:

five layer technique 2

Applying colours:

Let’s talk about how to apply choosen colours. There are some rules that must be followed. Below is the order and all the important leads:

– Foundation layer: Must be painted thoroghly. Paint should be delivered into recesses and cover all the flat areas, in the same time it must be kept from obscuring details too much. Some water may be added to the paint to ease the process.

– Base layer: May be painted scruffy and without dedication. Paint should be applied to all the flat areas and bulges leaving some of the Founation layer visible around it. Protruding areas should be ‘base’ covered wholly. I susually use flat brush for this layer to quicken the process and leave some Foundation layer visible without effort.

– Finish layer: Is the hardest part. Only protruding elements, central parts of flat and bulged areas should be covered. Some ‘edging’ may be done but next layer will render it almost invisible.

– Wash layer: Is the easy part. A lot of wash should be applied onto efery surface with no regard for details. Medium brush is good for the job as brushes too small won’t keep a lot of wash in them.

– Finish layer: Goes once again. Only protruding elements, central parts of flat and bulged areas should be covered but some parts of previous Finish layer should stay visible. At this point ‘edging’ is desirable.

Here’s a step-by-step example of this method:

five layer technique

That’s it 🙂 Below are some colours recepee examples for this tutorial:

flt 1
Foundation: Khorne Red (GW), Karak Stone (GW), Xereus Purple (GW), Tausept Ochre (GW), Stegadon Scale Green (GW), Regal Blue (GW),

flt 2
Base: Wazdakka Red (GW), Skeleton Bone (AP), Liche Purple (GW), Golden Yellow (GW), Hawk Turquise (GW), Ultramarine Blue (GW),

flt 3
Finish: Wild Rider Red (GW), Skeleton Bone (AP) + White, Genestealer Purple (GW), Golden Yellow (GW) + White, Hawk Turquise (GW) + White, Lothern Blue (GW),

flt 4
Wash: Red Tone Ink (AP), Strong Tone Ink (AP, Purple Ink (AP), Seraphim Sepia (GW), Turquise Ink (P3), Blue Tone Ink (AP),

flt 5
This how it looks like when Wash dries up,

flt 6
Final Finish: Wild Rider Red (GW), Skeleton Bone (AP) + White, Genestealer Purple (GW), Golden Yellow (GW) + White, Hawk Turquise (GW) + White, Lothern Blue (GW),

I hope you’ve enjoyed this tutorial and found it helpful.

Scarhandpainting

Special Project: “Lone Sentry”

Recently I spent a lot of time working on a ‘Special Project’. I have read/watched tutorials and acquired Know How in a hope of expanding my painting skill. I even visited a friend from Fantasygames Painting Studio to watch and learn. In the end I feel like if I ‘gained a level’. Here is a shortcut of a tremendous amount of hours spent on learning and a week of hard day and night labour:

“LONE SENTRY”

11222946_1013248258725791_4842831294178556314_n

Infini uber wip 3

Pano king WIP

Pano king WIP 2

PANO KING WIP 1

FINAL RESULT:

b3 31

b3 32

Check out this project’s Gallery…

Special thanks to:

Shizune (Made by Shizune) – for Painting Panoceania Blue Armour Tutorial
C’tan (Fantasygames Painting Studio) – for all the help, know how and this awesome Salt & Hairspray Tutorial

Scarhandpainting

Colour Recipes: Infinity Aleph (black/white)

Here are some Colour Recipes for Infinity Aleph from GALLERY: ALEPH lvl 4

Myrmidon

BLACK/GREY outfits & weapons:
Black Undercoat,
Dark Sea Grey (Vallejo) airbrushed,
Medium Sea Grey (Vallejo) airbrushed,
Light Grey (Vallejo) airbrushed,
Pale Grey Blue (Vallejo) airbrushed,
White lining,
Dark Tone Ink (AP)
Administratum Grey lining,
White lining,
Black ‘Wash for dark vehicles’ (Vallejo) filling in cavity lines

WHITE:
Pallid Wych Flesh (GW)
Pallid Wych Flesh (GW) + White
White
Black ‘Wash for dark vehicles’ (Vallejo) filling in cavity lines
Gloss Varnish (GW)

Aleph 7

BASES brown
Black Undercoat,
Gorthor Brown (GW)
Karak Stone (GW)
Karak Stone + Pallid Wych Flesh (GW) soft drybrush
A 50%/50% mix of Strong Tone Ink (AP) + Soft Tone Ink (AP)
Strong Tone Ink filling in cavity lines
Pallid Wych Flesh edging
BASES gray
Black Undercoat,
Eshin Grey (GW)
Administratum Grey (GW) soft drybrush

Aleph 8

Follow to ALEPH’S GALLERY…
Scarhandpainting

Tutorial: Painting Infinity Nomad Red Armour

Here is a Step-by-step guide of how to paint Infinity Nomad Red Armour – Scar_hand Painting’s style 🙂

A complete Recipee used to paint my Infinity Nomads may be found in COLOUR RECIPEES: INFINITY NOMADS. You can also find some additional pictures in the NOMADS: CORREGIDOR lvl 4,5 Gallery.

Colour Recipe:

* GW Standard Brush,
* Tamiya Modeling Brush HG,
* AP Wargamer: The Psycho,
* GW Chaos Black Undercoat,
* GW Mechrite Red, (When this one runs out i’ll switch to P3 Formula ‘Sanguine Base’ instead),
* GW Wazdakka Red,
* AP Skeleton Bone,
* White,
* AP Strong Tone Ink,
* AP Red Tone Ink,

1  I used Chaos Black spray to undercoat the model. I usually do this by applying eight layers of undercoat from eight different angles (four at the front and four at the back of the model, each at the same 45* angle with one directed up, one down, one left and one right side of the model).

2  The first layer of Red was made with Standard Brush and Mechrite Red. I tried not to fill the recesses too much and to cover all buldes smoothly.

red 1

3  I switched to Tamiya Modeling Brush and applied Wazdakka Red to all bulges and flat surfaces of the armour, leaving cavities Mechrite Red'ed. This madethe armour look more smooth and ready to be highlighted.

red 2

4  I applied a 50%/50% mix of Wazdakka Red and Skeleton Bone in the middle and on the edges of particular surfaces.

red 3

5  I added White to the Wazdakka/Skeleton mix and further lined the model.

red 4

6  More White was added to the mix and another layer of lines and points was made.

red 5

7  I switched back to Standard Brush and washed the armour with Strong Tone Ink.

red 6

8  I switched to The Psycho to add some Skeleton Bone/White lining in the key points of the armour.

red 7

9  I switched to Tamiya Modeling Brush and washed the armour with Red Tone Ink.

red 8

9  Oops! I did it again washing all the armour with Red Tone Ink to finally finish it.

red 9

Hope that you find this little tut useful and that you will post some pictures of miniatures painted this way 😉

Scarhandpainting