Tag Archive Painting

Tutorial: Painting Post-apo Survivors part 2 Bandits

Welcome to Painting Road to Survival Bandits tutorial. Here I will present to you a Step-by-step of an easy and fast painting process for Orzol Studio’s Bandits team from the Post-apo Survivors Kickstarter.

Before we start, some notes:

• This tutorial require airbrush.
• You can use any paints, not just the ones I recommend. You can use this chart to compare paints between different brands.
• Please note pictures present a huge miniature under strong light that might result in a feel of messy and clumsy paint job.
• As usual, please take note that what works for me might not necessarily work for you.

Step one: Undercoat

I applied a strong layer of Citadel Chaos Black spray. I prefer spray over manual application, but this is just a personal preference. Any matt black undercoat will do, as long as it’s thorough.

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Step two: Grey clothes base

I started by airbrushing a strong layer of Vallejo Panzer Dark Grey all over the miniature. I used an airbrush mainly to have a thin but also strong and smooth layer. 
Next I airbrushed a layer of Vallejo Cold Grey on top, zenithally and partially on the sides of the miniature.

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Step three: Brown clothes

With a solid grey foundation I moved to painting browns. I started by applying a thinned down Vallejo Ghost Grey in a gritty, haphazard fashion on top of everything soon to be brown. I also used this opportunity to apply highlights on weapons and pieces of clothes meant to be black. 
Then I applied a strongly thinned layer of Vallejo Burnt Umber instantly changing grey to nice vibrant brown, but keeping all the detail of the previous layer still visible. You might say I glazed with Burnt Umber. 

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Step four: Red clothes

I moved to Reds, staring with a strong layer of Vallejo Hull Red, followed by a wide highlight of Vallejo Flat Red.

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Step six: Blue clothes

Another color I took on was blue. I applied Vallejo Prussian Blue then highlighted with Vallejo Electric Blue.

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Step seven: Gas masks

For the masks and some additional detail I applied a layer of Games Workshop Karak Stone. I then strengthened the layer using Games Workshop Flayed One Flesh. 

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Step eight: Orange boots

For some shoes I applied a single layer of Vallejo Orange Brown. I knew boots will inevitably get messy during basing, so I decided to keep them super-simple.

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Step nine: Brown wash

Here’s where all the magic happens. I applied a strong layer of Army Painter Strong Tone Ink mixed with just a drop of Matt Varnish. I washed everything, skin* included, except for weapons*. I kept coming back to the miniatures to remove the ostentatious excess of wash throughout the drying process.

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Step ten: Highlights

I used Vallejo Glacier Blue and Games Workshop Pallid Wych Flesh to highlight blue, black and paint some extra detail on the shoes and buttons.

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Step eleven: Gasmask visors

Finally I painted gasmask visors with Games Workshop Pallid Wych Flesh, followed by Vallejo Light Livery Green. I then applied a glaze of Games Workshop Waywatcher Green. Last step was to paint diagonal lines of Vallejo Off White through the visors – adding that extra flash effect to them. 

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Other steps: *You can learn how to paint weapons, skin and bases in previous tutorial: Painting Post-apo Survivors part 1 Stalkers

I hope you find this tutorial interesting. Be sure to let me know your thoughts in the comments below or via Facebook.or Instagram. I would also appreciate if you considered sharing this content with your friends, who might find it useful. Finally if you are looking for a professional miniatures painting service be sure to contact me with this contact form. I always reply within 24 hours, after which please check out your spam folder.

 

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Tutorial: Painting Post-apo Survivors part 1 Stalkers

Welcome to Painting Road to Survival Stalkers tutorial. Here I will present to you a Step-by-step of an easy and fast painting process for Orzol Studio’s Stalkers team from the Post-apo Survivors Kickstarter.

Before we start, some notes:

• This tutorial require airbrush.
• You can use any paints, not just the ones I recommend. You can use this chart to compare paints between different brands.
• Please note pictures present a huge miniature under strong light that might result in a feel of messy and clumsy paint job.
• Pictures names don’t match steps in this tutorial. This is because I re-used pictures made for an Instagram tutorial. Sorry if this causes confussion.
• As usual, please take note that what works for me might not necessarily work for you.

Step one: Undercoat

I applied a strong layer of Citadel Chaos Black spray. I prefer spray over manual application, but this is just a personal preference. Any matt black undercoat will do, as long as it’s thorough.

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Step two: Uniform 

I started by applying a strong layer of Vallejo Dark Green RLM71 (air) onto entire uniform. I used an airbrush for this, but it is not necessary. This layer might as well be applied manually, but might take few runs to look smooth and solid. Although boots, weapons and other detail got painted alongside the uniform, it’s not a problem. If you switch to manual painting you don’t have to worry about messing these up at this stage of paint job.

Next I airbrushed Vallejo Interior Green (air) over previous layer. Similarly to Dark Green this one can be done manually and follows same philosophy.

I switched to manual painting and with a basecoat size brush, flatbrushed a mix of Vallejo Interior Green (air) 1:1 Vallejo Heavy Khaki over the miniature. I then used a more precise brush and highlighted some edges with the same color mix.

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Step three: Vest

With a solid color underneath a single layer of Vallejo Russian Green (air) was enough to provide a smooth base for the vest. The key was to avoid messing up all the bright uniform around. Because of that I outlined the vest with a precise brush and only then switched for a larger brush to gain speed.

Next I flatbrushed a mix of Vallejo Russian Green 1:1 Vallejo Olive Green over previous layer. This provided nice thickness, something the upcoming Wash will work good on.

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Step four: Boots, Gloves, Mask

Using a small brush I applied a strong, precise layer of Vallejo Panzer Dark Grey (air) onto boots, mask, gloves, weapons and buckles.

I then switched to Vallejo Medium Sea Grey, thinned it down with medium and applied a somehow misty, irregular layer over Panzer Dark Grey, leaving spots of previous color visible. I deliberately left weapons and buckles be for the time being.

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Step five: Brown wash

Using a large, soft brush I applied a lot of Games Workshop Agrax Earthshade onto entire miniature. After a while I used a clean precise brush to strip some of the paint from areas where too much pigmentation covered all the detail. I left the miniature to dry after that.

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Step six: Weapons

I applied a partially translucent layer of thinned down Vallejo Wolf Grey (air) onto weapons and buckles. I moved a brush alongside blade and barrel, trying to leave pigmentation on the edges.

I then highlighted weapons with Games Workshop Pallid Wych Flesh. Mostly on the edges and with no dillution.

I then followed up by applying Army Painter Dark Tone Ink. Similar to Agrax, I let the paint flow then removed the excess and let the thing dry.

Finally I edge highlighted with Games Workshop Pallid Wych Flesh. This time around I included gas mask filter plus added few scratches here and there.

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Step seven: Skin & Eyes

I started painting skin by applying a solid layer of slightly thinned down Vallejo Tan. This layer had to be precise and I avoided going out of line and messing up paintjob around it. I deliberately started painting skin before applying Agrax Earthshade Wash from previous tutorial so that any corrections could be done much easier, if required.

I then applied Games Workshop Dwarf Flesh onto previous layer. Same premise, except I left just a bit of Tan visible in the recesses.

Next I highlighted skin with Vallejo Flesh (air), which due to it’s consistency produces a partially translucent effect. I then re-applied Flesh on top of the head, cheeks and nose.

I followed up with Agrax Earthshade wash (done at Step five: Brown wash).

Finally I highlighted with Games Workshop Dwarf Flesh. I also blended some of the Dwarf Flesh over wash made stains on top of the head.

Painting eyes is a topic on it’s own and I’m not trying to write a book here, so I used a simple method of a single white line followed by a black dot in the middle. Any necessary corrections can be done to your heart’s content by painting over and over till good results are produced.

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Step eight: Backpack & Holsters

I started with a strong layer of Vallejo Charred Brown (air), ensuring not to leave a mess on top of any previous layer around the backpack.

I then flatbrushed Vallejo Beasty Brown over Charred Brown. No thinning, just paint straight from a bottle and onto a palette before application.

I used Games Workshop Karak Stone for gritty highlights plus painted a blanket strapped at the bottom of the backpack.

I then switched to Vallejo Panzer Dark Grey (air) and re-painted all the buckles grey.

Agrax Earthshade wash followed (done at Step five: Brown wash).

Finally I applied a highlight of Games Workshop Karak Stone onto the edges and middle areas.

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Step nine: Mask Visor

I tried to keep this one extra simple. Started with a gritty, messy layer of Games Workshop Pallid Wych Flesh. No need to be overly precise, nor smooth. The more irregular, diverse the visor looks now, the better the end result.

I then applied slightly thinned down Vallejo Hot Orange (air). Once dry I applied another layer of the same stuff. Done.

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Step ten: Teddy Bear

This one is such a cool detail. I decided to go purple/pink to make it stand out. I started with a solid layer of Vallejo Royal Purple.

I then applied Games Workshop Agrax Earthshade wash (done at Step five: Brown wash).

Once wash dried, I highlighted most exposed areas of the bear with Vallejo Warlord Purple.

I then used Vallejo Squid Pink for final highlight, applying dots and lines on top of most exposed areas.

To bring all layers together I applied a strong layer of Army Painter Purple Tone Ink.

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Step eleven: Yellow Kneepad

Once again I decided for a feature to stand out. I started with a strong, precise layer of Vallejo Heavy Goldbrown.

I then applied an irregular highlight of Vallejo Pale Yellow.

Finally I washed it with Army Painter Soft Tone Ink, which brought both layers together and made the knee pad look darker and used thoroughly.

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Step twelve: Basing

Time to finish the paint job with a proper looking base. For this purpose I decided to go with something easy to follow. One texture, one highlight and one tuft type for extra detail. I started with a large flat brush, applying a thick layer of AK Interactive Dark Earth texture. You can switch to any dark texture like for example Games Workshop Stirland Mud. I just prefer AK’s one because I find it easier to apply.

Once dry I drybrushed Dark Earth with Games Workshop Karak Stone.

Finally I glued an Army Painter Wasteland Tuft and re-painted base’s edge black afterwards.

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I hope you find this tutorial interesting. Be sure to let me know your thoughts in the comments below or via Facebook.or Instagram. I would also appreciate if you considered sharing this content with your friends, who might find it useful. Finally if you are looking for a professional miniatures painting service be sure to contact me with this contact form. I always reply within 24 hours, after which please check out your spam folder.

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Tutorial: Painting Blood Bowl Bogenhafen Barons

Welcome to Painting Blood Bowl Bogenhafen Barons tutorial. Here I will present to you a Step-by-step of an easy and fast painting process for Games Workshop Bogenhafen Barons as can be seen in Gallery: Bogenhafen Barons.

Before we start, some notes:

• This tutorial require airbrush.
• You can use any paints, not just the ones I recommend. You can use this chart to compare paints between different brands.
• Please note pictures present a huge miniature under strong light that might result in a feel of messy and clumsy paint job.
• Pictures names don’t match steps in this tutorial. This is because I re-used pictures made for an Instagram tutorial. Sorry if this causes confussion.
• As usual, please take note that what works for me might not necessarily work for you.

Step one: Undercoat

I started with a thorough layer of Games Workshop Chaos Black spray. This is a standard procedure for me. Chaos Black spray is my go to choice when it comes to undercoat. 

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Step two: Cream

I started by airbrushing Vallejo Bonewhite (air) all over feathers and clothes of the miniature, not caring if I mess up everything around. Paint was applied straight out of bottle, no dilution. I then moved to GW Pale Wych Flesh and
Flatbrushed it over previous layer. This layer was meant to build volume of paint and just a bit of highlight for the color, so that further ahead Wash could do a better job.

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Step three: Grey

I applied Vallejo Air Panzer Dark Grey (air) manually, with natural dilution (air series). This paint is easy to control which helped me keep the layer precise. The color wasn’t strong but this layer didn’t had to. It was meant to prepare a background for future highlights of dark black-to-brown elements. Next I used slightly diluted Vallejo Glacier Blue and flatbrushed it over previous layer. Finally I applied few highlights with GW Pale Wych Flesh.

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Step four: Skin

I begun painting skin with Vallejo Tan by applying a thin layer and concentrating on filling recesses. I added another thin layer on large flat areas to provide a solid color. Next I switched to GW Dwarf Flesh covered previous layer using flatbrush technique. Final highlights were made with Vallejo Flesh (air). I used the paint straight out of the bottle and applied it on the edges and on top of flat areas.

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Step five: Browns

I took on Browns by manually applying Vallejo Dark Fleshtone (air) onto everything to-be-brown. Natural air series dilution allowed me to control the paint and avoid messing up other layers. I then switched to GW Karak Stone and Flayed One Flesh for classic highlights. Just few lines and dots on the edges and in center areas.

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Step six: Metal

I started metal with GW Warplock Bronze, applying a thinned down layer on top of armor pieces. I then moved to P3 Molten Bronze for flatbrushed highlights. Finally I applied few highlights with AP Shining Silver.

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Step seven: Violet

I applied a layer of Vallejo Violet on chosen parts of clothes and decorations. This was the last layer before wash so I ensured it didn’t leave a mess on top of previous elements. At this point of the paint job, anything could still be corrected with minimum effort, and I done so accordingly.

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Step eight: Wash

This is where magic always happens. I applied a wet layer of AP Strong Tone Ink mixed with a tiny bit of Matt Varnish, onto entire miniature. I then ensured to remove any excess paint, from where detail got completely covered by pigmentation, with a clean brush.

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Step nine: Highlights

Once wash dried up, I applied highlights of GW Pale Wych Flesh. Edge highlights, points of focus and lines in the middle areas for everything not metal or skin. I also applied a strongly thinned down layer of Pale Wych Flesh on top of Purple clothes creating a somehow mist-like effect.

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Step ten: Purple

I then got back to violet (now more of a purple) and blended a layer of Vallejo Warlord Purple (air) on top of it. Air series does not require any thinning, but I added a bit of medium to leave texture difference visible underneath. With a strong and vibrant color I moved to Vallejo Pale Flesh for both an edge highlight and some random lines. I used this opportunity to add few dots and lines on top of skin, thus providing a final highlight.

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Step eleven: Grey

Finally I painted belts and straps with thinned Vallejo Panzer Dark Grey (air) with previous layers being barely visible from underneath. It was then highlighted with Vallejo Ghost Grey to add contrast and keep it in line with rest of greys on the miniature.

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Step twelve: Basing

Basing was made using AK Interactive Dark Earth texture, followed with a single layer drybrush of Games Workshop Karak Stone. I then airbrushed a line of pure white using a masking tape to protect the rest of the base (and miniature). Few Gamers Grass tufts and pure black edge later the job was done.

I hope you find this tutorial interesting. Be sure to let me know your thoughts in the comments below or via Facebook.or Instagram. I would also appreciate if you considered sharing this content with your friends, who might find it useful. Finally if you are looking for a professional miniatures painting service be sure to contact me with this contact form. I always reply within 24 hours, after which please check out your spam folder.