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Tag Archives: Painting

Review: Brush Clash Tamiya vs Citadel

Welcome to the Painting Arena! A fight the of century is before us! In the left corner we have a ‘Citadel Layer S’ brush! When it comes to painting miniatures this hobby brush is a Games Workshop’s bread and butter! Worth approximately 4,3 €, Citadel Layer S will be clashed against a cheaper Tamiya 87050. Tamiya’s approximate worth is only 3,4 € but it has a fighting spirit like no other! Which brush will emerge victorious? Which one will fall to oblivion? Buckle up and see for yourself…

Brush Clash Tamiya vs Citadel 5

I used a Infinity: Lunokhod miniature that could use some paint job to clash Citadel Layer S against Tamiya 87050. Both of these brushes had seen some action but not enough to be called a ‘veteran’. Let’s say that both were purchased recently and were used just couple of times before this clash. For the purpose of this article I used Games Workshop’s Mechrite Red. Till now I had no problems using this paint. It’s consistency let’s me paint constantly for a long period of time before I need to either clean or switch brushes. I started by applying Mechrite Red on one leg of the miniature – I used an unrelated brush for that, to check out the paint. It went good, so I switched to Citadel Layer S. This is how it looked after painting a single Lunokhod’s leg…

Brush Clash Tamiya vs Citadel 11

After only one part of the miniature entire brush turned into utter chaos. Hair behaved like if they really ‘wanted’ to disperse. I had a lot of difficulity covering the entire surface without moisting and reposing the brush (which I didn’t for the sake of this article).

Next in line was Tamiya 87050 and I’ve painted both rear legs with it before taking a picture…

Brush Clash Tamiya vs Citadel 12

As you can see Tamiya 87050 hair held ground and stayed composed. I wandered how long this brush can stay this way so I kept painting and painted entire Lunokhod without ever reposing brush’s tip. Here’s the result…

Brush Clash Tamiya vs Citadel 13

Tamiya 87050 stayed composed till the end. Must say that regardless of using Tamiya’s brushes for some time now – I was surprised to see it’s performance. Check out the video below to see how the clash proceeded…

RESULTS:

After long battle in which a lot of paint was spilled – Tamiya 87050 emerged a victor! Not only cheaper but much – MUCH – more durable and paint job friendly. The tip worked well throughout the entire process with hair flexible and pose reshaping itself. This kind of brush will surely provide you with comfort. Opposite to that Citadel Layer S failed after merely seconds of usage. It’s tip went berzerk the instant I started painting. I would never recommend this kind of brush for anything except washing or applying glue. I wander why I’ve tolerated this kind of brush’s behaviour till now… well it’s either trash or death in suicide mission for this one now. Will never purchase another Games Workshop’s brush again.

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Tutorial: Heavy Snow Bases

There’s plenty of ‘how to make snow‘ tutorials in the web. Some are better than the others, still I do preffer to use my own technique when it comes to modelling snow. During many years of painting I tested this technique using a variety of materials, including baking soda, fine-grained white sand, salt and couple different modelling snow products. As it came out – Citadel Modelling Snow works best for me, producing a heavy, white coverage of snow. Yup – some techniques make snow look much more realistic, but just as Modelling Tufts – snow should compliment the miniature’s colour scheme and style. If you saw my Gallery then you know that I tend to pick rather colorful schemes for my works, thus my snow must look strong, heavy and white.  Below is the tutorial of making such a snow…

Snow 0

I USED:

  • Super Glue,
  • Citadel Modelling Snow,
  • White Paint,

Snow 1

1  I applied some Super Glue onto the previously painted surface...                                                       

Snow 3

2  I applied a quick fat layer of Citadel Modelling Snow and left it be for around fifteen seconds...

Snow 4

3  After Super Glue dried out, holding some snow in it, I shaked down all the remaining snow and applied another layer of Super Glue...

Snow 5

4  Then I applied another layer of snow - even bigger than the first one. This time I left it dry for around five minutes...

Snow 6

5  I shaked down all the remaining snow and used a soft brush to brush away all the little snow specks that were left on the base...

Snow 7

6  I used a large brush to apply some White Paint. I did not use drybrush technique, just some wet paint applied with a brush moved in one direction...

Snow 10

The final effect on the table looks like this:

Snow 8

I hope you like this effect and that this tutorial will work fine for you.

 

 

 

 

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Review: Games Workshop Corax White Spray

Not so long ago I was in the middle of painting gaming terrain for my Infinity Gaming Table. I used GW’s Skull White undercoat as this is the base colour for all the terrain. As you can imagine my stockpile of White was depleted pretty fast. In search of Skull White Spray I visited couple Online Stores, but everywhere I checked – Corax White was the only available ‘White’ undercoat. So I made my mind and ordered three cans. I received the package two days later – started undercoating right away… and was shocked with what I saw to a point where I just had to review Corax White.

review corax white 1

Properties

The first thing that I observed was the way in which Corax White covered the surface. It worked almost as good as Chaos Black Spray – producing a smooth and strong colour. This, in my opinion, makes Corax White a very user-friendly spray. Skull White in comparison is very difficult to use, producing a layer that is a bit translucent and tends to run more like ‘hold fire button and forget’. I’m sure that Corax White will be great for some colour schemes, including Yellow, Orange, Pink, light Grey and a lot of others. It may even be good for White colour scheme – but here’s the surprise: Corax White is not ‘White’! It’s more like GW’s ‘Astronomican Grey’, or Vallejo ‘Pale Grey Blue’. Just take a look at the pictures:

review corax white 3

review corax white 4

You probably wornder ‘what the hell GW?’ right now. I was taken aback with this effect – more so, because I ordered three cans of that, so called, ‘White’ spray thus ending up with three cans of spray that is everything but White 🙂

Some more pictures – this time with Vallejo ‘Dead White’ applied to both caps:

review corax white 6

review corax white 5

At some angles Skull White is 1:1 match for the Dead White, while Corax not-White is something totally else.

Summary

So my final opinion about Corax White is as follows:

Games Workshop’s Corax White is a big step forward when it comes to coverage and way of applying the spray. It is very user friendly and may be used to achieve great results. Still removing Skull White from the offer while introducing Corax White was an unfair move – because Corax White IS NOT WHITE AT ALL.

Be aware before you happen to purchase!

For all those of you who happened to paint an entire army/project using Skull White and run out of stock in the process – I strongly recommend a purchase of Army Painter’s White Primer instead. It is a bit stronger than GW and the layer it produces is also less grainy – but atleast it’s WHITE!

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Hobby Advice: Preparing Resin Miniatures for Undercoat

A miniature made of resin requires a special kind of treatment before it can undergo the undercoating. Here’s my way of preparing such miniatures:

VIDEO TUTORIAL:

I USED:

  • Toothbrush,
  • Cup,
  • Alcohol,
  • Soap,
  • Strainer,
  • Running water,

Resin 2

PROCEDURE:

1  Dip the miniature in alcohol and brush it gently using a toothbrush,

2  Using soap and toothbrush clean up the miniature,

3  Rinse the miniature under running water,

!  You can use a strainer to protect smaller pieces from falling in to the sink hole,

Check out my youtube channel for more video Tutorials…
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Hobby Advice: Spray Undercoat

Every once in awhile I stumble upon a question of how to undercoat miniatures properly. Well – there are many techniques of undercoating miniatures and each individual hobbyist has his own favorite style.  I’ve figured that instead of writing all the know-how again and again – I can prepare a solid Tutorial of what I consider to be my favorite technique and just link it to all the hobbyists in need. Below you will find both a video version and extended picture version of Tutorial: Spray Undercoat – Eight Sides Technique.

TUTORIAL: SPRAY UNDERCOAT - VIDEO VERSION:

TUTORIAL: SPRAY UNDERCOAT - EXTENDED VERSION:

1  I start by preparing a setup for the miniatures. I immobilize the miniatures on a piece of wood using a protective duct tape. I place them so that I have access to the biggest part of their bodies both before and after turning them around.

undercoat 1

2  Now comes the time to shake the spray can a bit. Usually it takes between one to three minutes. I don't believe in all that 'ten minutes shakeup' bulsh... In my entire life I never done this for more than three minutes. So I just shake the can up and down in a quick succession. Once the ball inside it slides smoothly i proceed to the next step.

undercoat 2

!  WARNING - Some sprays are just like girls - usual shaking up and down can turn out to be fatal. For example - Army Painter Primers tend to get sandy and rought after shaking them too much. I always move the can in small circles so that the ball inside is sliding on the bottom.

undercoat 21

3  Time to start spraying! I spray the miniatures from a distance between 20-30cm (that's 8-12 inches), with small controlled bursts at an 45 degree angle. I start with spraying the miniatures from up and down, skipping right and left side for the time being. 

!  WHEN I'M DONE I WAIT FOR AROUND TEN MINUTES BEFORE PROCEEDING TO THE NEXT STEP.

undercoat 3

4  I repeat the action but this time I spray both the right and left side of the miniatures. Still I use the same distance of 20-30cm, same angle and small bursts.

!  WHEN I'M DONE I WAIT FOR AROUND TEN MINUTES BEFORE PROCEEDING TO THE NEXT STEP.

undercoat 4

5  I turn around the miniatures so that the unpainted surface is fully accessible.

undercoat 5

6  I repeat step '3' spraying the miniatures from the up and down side, skipping right and left side, following to previous indications (20-30cm, 45 degree, small bursts).

!  WHEN I'M DONE I WAIT FOR AROUND TEN MINUTES BEFORE PROCEEDING TO THE NEXT STEP.

undercoat 6

6  I repeat step '4' spraying the miniatures from the right and left side, following to previous indications (20-30cm, 45 degree, small bursts).

!  WHEN I'M DONE I WAIT FOR AROUND TEN MINUTES FOR THE MINIATURES TO DRY UP.

undercoat 7

That’s all – no magic or special tricks involved – just plain, easy technique. Some may consider eight layers to be too much, but I like to have my miniatures undercoated properly with no ‘shine’ visible and a solid layer of paint. Still if done properly – no detail will be dulled.

I hope you like this Tutorial – if so – please go and spread the word so that no newbe will have any problems with undercoating ever again 🙂

 

This Tutorial is my debut at youtube – you can see my channel here…

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Tutorial: Painting White

Two weeks ago I was participating in a tournament of Infinity the Game. Somewhere between games I chated with fellow hobbyist and as the topic moved to miniatures he asked me about my Infinity Corregidor’s white. What made him curious was how solid and actually ‘white’ that colour was. I started explaining and before I finished – a group of players was standing around and listening to my recipe. I then realised that a lot of painters struggle with white as it is not an easy colour to achieve. A common mistake is to paint layer after layer of pure white as usually all the irregularities made with first layer will still be visible.

So here’s what I have observed about white paint: White has a lot of pigment which is the reason for building irregularities on the painted surface. These irregularities lead to a formation of strong white points in contrast with all the area where white is not so strong at first. It does not matter how many layers we provide as a difference between these two will be visible for long after the painted surface looses all the detail. So I figured that in order to build a nice and strong white colour there should be a small number of thin layers. But how to achieve a perfect whiteness with only few layers? The answer to that question is below…

Hacker 1

I USED:

* Chaos Black Undercoat (GW),

* Pallid Wych Flesh (GW),

* White,

* Matt Varnish (AP),

white 1

1  I applied Pallid Wych Flesh (GW) onto the surface. This layer is usually dirty and full of smudges. Black undercoat is also visible undernath it but I don't care. The key factor is to keep this layer thin so I blurredany accumulated paint with my brush adding a tiny bit of water (I used a Citadel Basecoat brush to be precise).

white 3

2  Next in line was a 1/1 mix of Pallid Wych Flesh (GW) and White. Once again I tried to keep the paint thin without adding any water. Just used the tip of the brush to clear any irregularities of paint. This layer has a lot of white's pigment, further enchanced by Pallid Wych Flesh so it should be easy to obtain a solid colour at this point - still not 'white' tho.

white 4

3  Third layer follows the same rules as the first one. I kept a thin layer of pure white mixed with a tiny bit of water.

white 5

!  You can repeat this layer to make sure the whiteness is 'perfect' before proceeding to the next one...

4  To further smoothe the surface I used Matt Varnish. It solidified the 'whiteness' of my layers but I had to be very careful due to Varnish's tendention of drawing small hair and dust fragments. After applying this layer I put the miniature into a small plastic box so that no dusty trash will land on it while it dries out.

white 6

That’s it – that’s the whole secret of pure and strong white.

I had a lot of difficulities taking proper pictures so please treat these pics as not entirely true – I have these pieces before me and there’s a lot of colour difference between balls 1st to 4th, and some difference in smoothness between 4th and 5th. Still you now know the recipe and it should work for you just as it works for me 🙂

white 7

 

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Colour Recipes: Infinity Hacker’s Transparent Holo Screen

This post is in a way ‘on demand’ as lately I got an unprecedented number of questions regarding the paints used on the ‘transparent’ Hacker’s screen with which one of my NOMADS: CORREGIDOR lvl 4,5 miniatures is equipped. Taking this opportunity I will also add a mini-tutorial of how to prepare such holo-screen on the bottom of this post.

Infinity Nomad Dactari

 

HAKCER’S HOLO SCREEN:
White (inner site symbols),
Mephiston Red (outer side symbols),
Coelia Greenshade Wash (GW),
White (lines on the edges),
Gloss Varnish (GW),*
*For more transparency I maker smooth layer without brush strokes visible – I use a lot of Varnish to achieve that.

hacker screen

 

MINI-TUTORIAL: HACKER’S ‘TRANSPARENT’ HOLO SCREEN

That would be fast – just use scissors to cut a small piece of plastic bottle. I preffer Coca Cola Zero’s bottle, but anything thin and transparent will do. After shaping the piece put a small hole in it – that would be the place into which you will glue the miniature’s fingers so that the screen will hold firm. The secret revealed – go and spread the word!

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Special Project: “Ave Dominus Nox”

Third ‘Special Project’ and this time it is much different than the previous ones. It’s worth mentioning that I had this one in mind for more than five years. Actually since Dec 2011 when I made these True Scale Night Lords. The paint job with which I provided them was near to ugly and I sworn to redeem myself one day. That day came and ‘AVE DOMINUS NOX’ project was realised. Eight Legion’s Rhino transporter was born into the late night of Feb 8ght 2016.

 It all started with an easy yet most important conversion.

ave dominus nox
The soul of the project lies within the plastic bounds of this particular piece. Rest of the preparation went pretty easy. It was so fast that I forgot to take pictures throughout the process.

Inner Paintjob.

ave dominus nox 2

ave dominus nox 3

One of the reasons that makes this project ‘Special’ is that I actually painted the innards of a vehicle! I paint for more than 15 years now and I haven’t done this even once ever before. I used to pillage the innards of my vehicles, then fix a D6 dice with a ‘six’ on top into them to boost their survivability and glue all the doors shut forever.

Lightning Strike!

ave dominus nox 4

Lightning is the worst nightmare of paintjob. This is the true Terror that One must overcome so that One may stand In Midnight Clad. Fortunately I found a great tutorial of how to paint Lightning using Steel Whool. Must say that it did the job.

First night’s end result.

ave dominus nox 5

This is how it looked like when I decided to finally forfeit my task for the day and fell into slumber. Next day I was a bit dissapointed with my work. The colours seem to not go well with each other. Something was wrong. I decided to continue paintjob and blend all the Lightning and Chaos markings with blue. I also redone the upper Night Lords simbol, making it a bit more juicy with sharpened edges and key points. Small points of white/yellow were added to the main lights and white lining adorned the red ones. The Rhino finally looked like a whole.

Here’s the final piece: “AVE DOMINUS NOX”

Chaos Night Lord Rhino 22

Chaos Night Lord Rhino 25

View complete gallery… Like/Don’t like? Vote at CoolMiniOrNot…
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Colour Recipes: Warhammer 40,000 Orks Goff

Here are some Colour Recipes for Warhammer 40,000 Orks of ‘Goff’ clan from GALLERY: WARHAMMER 40,000 ORKS lvl 4

ORK STORMBOYZ 3
RED armour & weapons:
Black Undercoat,
Sanguine Base (P3),
Skorne Red (P3),
Wild Rider Red (GW),
Wild Rider Red (GW)) + Troll Slayer Orange (GW),
Troll Slayer Orange (GW),
Red Tone Ink (AP),
Troll Slayer Orange (GW),

ORKY ORKS 4
GREEN skin:
Black Undercoat,
Waagh Flesh (GW),
Strong Tone Ink (AP),
Waagh Flesh (GW),
Waagh Flesh (GW) + Sybarite Green (GW),
Waagh Flesh (GW) + Skarsnik Green (GW),
Goblin Green (AP),
Sybarite Green (GW),

BLACK clothes:
Black Undercoat,
Bastion Grey (P3),
Bastion Grey (P3) + Administratum Grey (GW),
Bastion Grey (P3) + Administratum Grey (GW) + Pallid Wych Flesh (GW),
Dark Tone Ink (AP),
Wash for dark vehicles (Vallejo), [inner lining]
Administratum Grey,
Administratum Grey (GW) + Pallid Wych Flesh (GW),

ORK STORMBOYZ 1 BIG
BROWN clothes:
Black Undercoat,
Charred Brown (Vallejo),
Dark Fleshtone (Vallejo),
Dark Fleshtone (Vallejo)) + Dirt (Vallejo),
Dark Fleshtone (Vallejo)) + Dirt (Vallejo) + Bonewhite (Vallejo),
Stron Tone Ink (AP),
Flayed One Flesh (GW),

More pictures can be found at GALLERY: WARHAMMER 40,000 ORKS lvl 4
Scarhandpainting

Colour Recipes: Warhammer 40,000 Orks Bad Moonz

Here are some Colour Recipes for Warhammer 40,000 Orks of ‘Bad Moonz’ clan from GALLERY: WARHAMMER 40,000 ORKS lvl 4

ORK FLASH GITZ x1
YELLOW armour & weapons:
Black Undercoat,
Moldy Ochre (P3),
Moldy Ochre (P3),
Moldy Ochre (P3) + Pallid Wych Flesh (GW),
Griffon Sepia (GW),
Lamenters Yellow (GW),
Dorn Yellow (P3),

ORKY ORKS 2
GREEN skin:
Black Undercoat,
Waagh Flesh (GW),
Strong Tone Ink (AP),
Waagh Flesh (GW),
Waagh Flesh (GW) + Sybarite Green (GW),
Waagh Flesh (GW) + Skarsnik Green (GW),
Goblin Green (AP),
Sybarite Green (GW),

ORK FLASH GITZ x5
BROWN clothes:
Black Undercoat,
Charred Brown (Vallejo),
Dark Fleshtone (Vallejo),
Dark Fleshtone (Vallejo)) + Dirt (Vallejo),
Dark Fleshtone (Vallejo)) + Dirt (Vallejo) + Bonewhite (Vallejo),
Stron Tone Ink (AP),
Flayed One Flesh (GW),

More pictures can be found at GALLERY: WARHAMMER 40,000 ORKS lvl 4
Scarhandpainting