fbpx
  • contact@scarhandpainting.com

Tag Archives: Painting

Colour Recipes: Infinity Tohaa (bone)

Here are some Colour Recipes for Infinity Yu-Jing lvl 5 from GALLERY: INFINITY TOHAA lvl 5. Please take note that this is a simple colour scheme, not covering multiple overlapping layers and blends inbetween, that lead to the final product. It is supposed to be used as guidline not a step-by-step.

scarhandpainting-infinity-tohaa-sakiel-colour-match

BONE armour:

Black Undercoat,

Earth (Vallejo)*,

Khaki (Vallejo)*,

Bonewhite (Vallejo)*,

Pallid Wych Flesh (GW) l&p,

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),

Pallid Wych Flesh (GW) l&p,

White l&p,

SYMBIONT armour:

Hot Orange (Vallejo),

Hot Orange (Vallejo) + Pallid Wych Flesh (GW),

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),

Lugganath Orange (GW),

Lugganath Orange (GW) + Pallid Wych Flesh (GW),

Pallid Wych Flesh (GW) l&p,

andreas-tohaa-25

BLACK weapons:

Black Undercoat,

Skavenblight Dinge (GW),

Fenrisian Grey (GW),

Pallid Wych Flesh (GW) l&p,

Dark Tone Ink (AP),

Pallid Wych Flesh (GW) l&p,

White l&p,

NECROTIC skin:

Dead Flesh (Vallejo),

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),

Necrotic Flesh (AP) + Pallid Wych Flesh (GW) l&p,

White l&p,

andreas-tohaa-30

ORANGE clothes:

Hot Orange (Vallejo),

Hot Orange (Vallejo) + Fire Dragon Bright (GW),

Hot Orange (Vallejo) + Fire Dragon Bright (GW) + Pallid Wych Flesh (GW) l&p,

Pallid Wych Flesh (GW) l&p,

Mix Hot Orange (Vallejo) 3: 1 Bloodletter (GW),

Lugganath Orange (GW) l&p,

GRAY/BLUE clothes:

Eshin Grey (GW),

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),

Eshin Grey (GW),

Eshin Grey (GW) + Fenrisian Grey (GW),

Eshin Grey (GW) + Fenrisian Grey (GW) + Pallid Wych Flesh (GW) l&p,

Dark Tone Ink (AP) shadows,

Pallid Wych Flesh (GW) l&p,

White l&p,

scarhandpainting-infinity-tohaa-kerail-preceptors-1

l&p – lines and points,

*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)

Zapisz

Scarhandpainting

Special Project: “Gecko Mage”

Every once in a while I encounter a visionary customer ending up head to toe in a ‘Special Project’ of someone else’s design. Such event occured just recently when I met Thomas, who is both a miniatures collector of grand magnitude and a great fan of Geckos. So, Thomas had an interresting idea of converting a Newt Warrior from Dark Sword Miniatures into a ‘Gecko Mage’. He was very specific about all the details for this particular project. He even drawn some concept arts to point out his expectations which is a rare thing. I was pretty much consumed by the idea and started to think about how I would proceed with it…

gecko-mage-concept-2

CONVERSION:

gecko-mage-concept-3

Alongside typical Gecko tail I was asked to create a torch and a book for the miniature to stand out as a ‘gecko mage’. Torch and tail were a matter of some time spent with green stuff and it went pretty smooth, but the book was a totally different thing. First of all I had to remove the miniature’s left arm, almost entirely covered by a shield. Taking that into consideration I decided not to rebuild this practically ‘obliterated’ limb but rather mask the damage and use a proxy hand to hold the book. Sculpting a new hand was out of question, as this would consume a lot of time and is on a verge of the limit of my skills. I used a Warhammer Ghoul’s hand instead and cut off one of it’s fingers to mark the other hand. Then I used some green stuff to fill the space left after previous ‘operation’ and masked the ‘wound’ using a book on the one side and a scroll-like bookmark on the other.

 

thomas-newt-wip-2

thomas-newt-wip-5

thomas-newt-wip-4

thomas-newt-wip-3

BASING:

thomas-newt-wip-1

The base was yet another interresting idea. It was meant to be partially submerged with fish, plants and river bank being clearly visible. Alongside the mage, some books were to be added on the coast. Also three rats were to accompany the Gecko, being it’s familiar pets. As it happened, I had an old Micro Art Studio base with a tree trunk all over it. I decided to modify and use it as a major feature of the coast. Once it was prepared and placed on the base, I just added detail all around it and positioned the Gecko miniature in a slightly more dynamic pose. It looked well so I got a green light from Thomas and proceeded to painting…

thomas-newt-wip-7

thomas-newt-wip-10

thomas-newt-wip-9

thomas-newt-wip-8

PAINTING:

gecko-mage-concept-1

The overall concept for the paint job was to use the original colour scheme of light green with underbelly creme and add a red pattern to the tail and back. I also got some specifics on the eyes and armour. Otherwise I had a free will to choose colours and their depth so I just did my best, providing a nice ‘Heroes Never Die!’ lvl 6 paint job.

thomas-newt-wip-11

thomas-newt-wip-16

thomas-newt-wip-15

thomas-newt-wip-19

thomas-newt-wip-22

thomas-newt-wip-21

thomas-newt-wip-24

thomas-newt-wip-32

thomas-newt-wip-31

thomas-newt-wip-30

thomas-newt-wip-26

thomas-newt-wip-25

SUBMERGING:

I actually started painting with the base. While the Gecko paint job proceeded, the base was already prepared to get submerged. I used Fantasygames awesome tutorial to prepare the base then poured the resin in. As with all things – mistakes happen, and my first attempt ended up with a mess, resing pouring all over the desk, me trying to block it with blue tac and other stuff… I failed and restarted the process after clearing the base of resin. Second attempt was a success and after 24 hours I was ready to add a finishing touch to the base…

 

thomas-newt-wip-12

thomas-newt-wip-13

scarhandpainting-newt-warrior-mage-special-project-col-1

scarhandpainting-newt-warrior-mage-special-project-closeup-2

scarhandpainting-newt-warrior-mage-special-project-closeup-4

Epilogue:

I had a lot of fun with this Special Project, mostly because I would have never had an idea like this on my own. Thomas not only provided the concept but also entrusted me with his vision. He had a great impact on the project and it makes it even sweeter. If only I could produce two identical pieces so that one would adorn my own collection 😛

View complete Gallery… Like/Don’t like? Vote at CoolMiniOrNot…

 

Zapisz

Zapisz

Zapisz

Scarhandpainting

Colour Recipes: Infinity Yu-Jing Jinyiwei

Here are some Colour Recipes for Infinity Yu-Jing lvl 5 from GALLERY: INFINITY OTHER lvl 3-5. Please take note that this is a simple colour scheme, not covering multiple overlapping layers and blends inbetween, that lead to the final product. It is supposed to be used as guidline not a step-by-step.

Infinity Yu-Jing Kanren y1

RED outfits:

Black Undercoat,

German Red Brown (Vallejo),

Wazdakka Red (GW),

Wazdakka Red (GW) + Troll Slayer Orange (GW),

Red Tone Ink (AP),

Troll slayer Orange (GW) + Medium,

Lugganath Orange (GW),

 

YELLOW armour:

Moldy Ochre (P3)*,

Moldy Ochre (P3) + White*,

White l&p,

Lammenters Yellow (GW),

White l&p,

Soft Tone Ink (AP) + Medium,

White l&p,

WIP Kanrens 1

BLACK/GREY outfits & weapons:

Black Undercoat,

Skavenblight Dinge (GW),

Fenrisian Grey (GW),

Pallid Wych Flesh (GW) l&p,

Dark Tone Ink (AP),

Pallid Wych Flesh (GW) l&p,

White l&p,

 

BASES gray:

Black Undercoat,

Eshin Grey (GW),

Administratum Grey (GW) soft drybrush

Infinity Yu-Jing Kanren x2
l&p – lines and points,

*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)

View the INFINITY GALLERY…Zapisz

Zapisz

Zapisz

Zapisz

Zapisz

Scarhandpainting

Colour Recipes: Infinity USARF

Here are some Colour Recipes for Infinity USAriadna Ranger Force from GALLERY: INFINITY USARIADNA. Please take note that this is a simple colour scheme, not covering multiple overlapping layers and blends inbetween, that lead to the final product. It is supposed to be used as guidline not a step-by-step.

Ariadna lvl comp 1

 

Armour & Uniforms:

Black Undercoat,

Dark Earth (Vallejo),*

Light Brown (Vallejo),*

Light Brown (Vallejo) points,*

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),

Flayed One Flesh (GW),

Pallid Wych Flesh (GW) l&p,

 

BLACK/GREY outfits & weapons:

Black Undercoat,

Skavenblight Dinge (GW),

Fenrisian Grey (GW),

Pallid Wych Flesh (GW) l&p,

Dark Tone Ink (AP),

Pallid Wych Flesh (GW) l&p,

White l&p,

wip-ariadna

BROWN elements:

Olive Drab (Vallejo),

Gorthor Brown (GW),

Gorthor Brown (GW) + Pallid Wych Flesh (GW),

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),

Karak Stone (GW) l&p,

 

SKIN:

Bugmans Glow (GW),

Dwarf Flesh (GW),

Dwarf Flesh (GW) + Pale Flesh (Vallejo),

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),

Pale Flesh (Vallejo),

Pale Flesh (Vallejo) + Pallid Wych Flesh (GW) l&p,

 

Ariadna grunts foxtrot van zant 1

*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)

l&p – lines and points,

View the INFINITY GALLERY…

Zapisz

Zapisz

Zapisz

Zapisz

Scarhandpainting

Tutorial: Painting Micro Art Studio Concrete Walls

SbS MAS Walls 1

Micro Art Studio does some fantastic paint job on their stuff. At some level it might even be considered a bit intimidating. Thoughts like ‘This stuff is amazing, but I will never be able to paint it anything like they did’ had kept me from purchasing some awesome terrain pieces in the past. I bet that some of you feel the same right now. Well – that is clearly a bad way of thinking. That’s why I prepared this small Step-by-step painting tutorial with which I hope to bring you closer to your ideal of a Gaming Table.

For this purpose I picked a Concrete Wall Set 2 by Micro Art Studio and tried to copy their style with a small variation of the colour scheme.

I USED:

  • Airbrush, (Harder & Steinbeck Infinity CR plus 0,4mm nozzle)
  • Small brush,
  • Mechanicus Standard Grey (GW) Undercoat,
  • Airbrush Flow Improver (Vallejo ),
  • White (Vallejo) Surface Primer,
  • Light Brown (Vallejo Game Air),
  • Soft Tone Ink (Army Painter),
  • Light Livery Green (Vallejo Game Air),
  • Waywatcher Green (GW) Glaze,
  • Streaking Grime (AK Interactive) Weathering effect,

 

SbS MAS Walls 2

SbS MAS Walls 3

1  After unpacking the set I have cleared any extent of resin and prepared each piece for the undercoat.

I used THIS METHOD

SbS MAS Walls layer 1 GW Mechanicus Standard Grey

2  I have covered entire set with Games Workshop's Mechanicus Standard Grey primer. Usually I use Black Undercoat first, but in this case the surface was smooth and I knew it will work well with a Grey undercoat. Do not feel obliged to use the exact same primer - you can easily use Vallejo Grey Surface Primer instead and Airbrush it over the surface. I used spray just to save some time.

SbS MAS Walls layer 2 Vallejo White Primer

3  I gently arbrushed Vallejo White Surface Primer over the set. First I tried to cover entire surface from afar (15cm distance, constant flow, see pic - dark spots), then I  outlined center of each flat surface with additional layers (5cm distance, soft puffs of paint, see pic - light spots). This resulted in the surfaces gaining some extra shadows.

SbS MAS Walls layer 3 Vallejo Light Brown

4  I used airbrush to apply Vallejo Light Brown onto the lower parts of each Wall piece. I mixed a bit of Airbrush Flow Improver to build up a nice transition from brown to white. The key is to paint in smooth lines, then go backwards building up colour. Too much paint in the same spot will result in paint spilling all around and ruining the paint job.

SbS MAS Walls layer 4 AP Soft Tone Ink

5  Then I moved to Army Painter's Soft Tone Ink and airbrushed it over Light Brown, with an addition of single strokes over the recesses of four oval Wall pieces. I was careful not to apply too much paint as in this particular case I wanted to build up a nice hume of colour, instead of 'washing' the surface with it.

SbS MAS Walls layer 5 Vallejo Light Livery Green copy

6  Then I applied a thin layer of Vallejo Light Livery Green over and around each lamp. A lot of small puffs of paint helped me to keep the base shape of light around the lamps. Even if one or two puffs went too far, they were so delicate as to remain unseen once the majority of colour was applied. 

SbS MAS Walls layer 6 GW Waywatcher Green copy

7  To strenghten the colour I used a small brush and applied Games Workshop's Waywacher Green onto the lamps. I tried not to exeed the boundries of their slots and in case I did - I used a small piece of paper towel to clear the paint out.

SbS MAS Walls layer 7 AK streaks

8  Finally I applied AK Interactive Streaking Grime. Using a small brush I poured this weathering effect paint into holes, then smeared it dow with a tip of the brush. The more irregular it went, the better to the overall visual effect.

In the end I used a template provided by Reycast to airbrush a small Nomad prank onto the wall, with a Vallejo Black Paint. What’s left now is to purchase Micro Art Studio’s S-F Graffiti Transfers and job will be done.

Here is a result of my paint job:

Micro Art Studio concrete walls set 1

Micro Art Studio concrete walls set 2

Micro Art Studio concrete walls set 3

 

Zapisz

Zapisz

Zapisz

Zapisz

Zapisz

Zapisz

Zapisz

Zapisz

Zapisz

Scarhandpainting

Colour Recipes: Warhammer 40,000 Tau (turquise)

Here are some Colour Recipes for Warhammer 40,000 ‘Tau Empire’ from GALLERY: WARHAMMER 40,000 TAU lvl 3

TAU Stormsurge 5

TURQUISE armour:

Coal Black (P3)*,

Hydra Turquise (AP)*,

Turquise Ink (P3)*,

Turquise Ink (P3)*,

*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)

 

GREY armour:

German Grey (Vallejo)*,

Wolf Grey (Vallejo)*,

Black Wash (Vallejo)*,

Pallid Wych Flesh (GW),

*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)

WIP TAU 6

GOLD:

Underrust (Warplock Bronze GW – like mix of Vallejo Airs),

Blighted Gold (P3),

Brass Balls (P3),

Mix 1:1 Strong Tone Ink (AP) + Soft Tone Ink (AP),

 

PURPLE OSL:

Warlord Purple (Vallejo)*,

White*,

Purple Tone Ink (AP)*,

White points,

Purple Tone Ink (AP) + Medium glazed,

*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)

Desert Rock Bases 8

BASES:

TUTORIAL: PAINTING DESERT ROCK BASES

SKIN:

Shadow Grey (GW),

Shadow Grey (GW) + Frostbite (P3),

Shadow Grey (GW) + Frostbite (P3) 1:2,

Frostbite (P3), soft drybrush

WIP TAU 15

Zapisz

Zapisz

Zapisz

Zapisz

Zapisz

Zapisz

Zapisz

Zapisz

Scarhandpainting

Tutorial: Desert Rocky Bases

Below is a quick five-colour Step-by-step about painting rocky desert bases. I used this method to base a big army of wh40k Tau – be sure to see the end results in GALLERY: WARHAMMER 40,000 TAU lvl 3

I USED:

  • Airbrush,
  • Large flat brush,
  • Regular brush,
  • Black undercoat,
  • German Red Brown (Vallejo) Surface Primer,
  • Earth (Vallejo Game Air),
  • Light Brown (Vallejo Model Air),
  • European Dust (Vallejo Wash),
  • Flayed One Flesh (GW),

 

Desert Rock Bases 2

1  I have undercoated (Airbrush) the entire base with Black paint. To properly undercoat the jagged edges of cork I've added some water to the plack paint and then used a Large flat brush to apply the mixture over this surface.

Desert Rock Bases 3

2  I have airbsrushed German Red Brown onto the entire base. It does not had to be precise, just enought to cover the cork and some bigger flats of sand.

Desert Rock Bases 4

3  Still using airbrush I've applied Earth colour over the surface. This time I ensured that some areas of the cork will be less covered than the others. The process was almost random - just picked some spots to have more paint.

Desert Rock Bases 5

4  Light Brown followed, being airbrushed over the base. Once again I tried to cover some spots better than the others. This time tho I tried not to paint over sand too much, just some delicate puffs of paint.

Desert Rock Bases 6

5  Once the paint was utterly dry I sprayed European Dust over the entire base. The layer had to be thin, just enought to cover the base without leaving any stains.

Desert Rock Bases 7

6  Lastly I used a large flat brush to drybrushed the entire base with Flayed One Flesh. Once it was done I also edged some major edges of the cork with the same colour. Clean black rant of the base followed.

Desert Rock Bases 8

Zapisz

Zapisz

Zapisz

Zapisz

Zapisz

Zapisz

Scarhandpainting

Special Project: “Go Go Nomads” Diorama Display

Foreboding my previous lifestyle in favor of painting for hire was the best decission in my entire life. Not only that I have a lot of fun in my ‘job’ but also plenty of time for my own projects. For those who knew me before scarhandpainting.com the number of Special Projects appearing lately might be quite a surprise. I myself am taken aback by the sheer numbers of personal projects I can work on. Below is a visual step-by-step of just such a project.

GO GO NOMADS

A big Infinity Event is closing in. ‘Polish Championships’ will take place tomorrow and I’ve trained my Corregiror army and dice rolling hard in preparation. Along with the usual mano-a-mano combat, a Painting Contest will also take place at the event. Each player is eligible to select one of his army rosters and present the miniatures for everyone to see and vote. I thought long and hard to think of anything that could deliver my miniatures to the podium. I know very well that there’s plenty of awesome painters among the Infinity community in Poland and that competition will be very strong. My miniatures look nice but not awesome enought to compete with paint jobs that literally blow my mind. I’ve figured something special – a Nomad-like trick to fight for the attention of voters. A special display diorama to compliment my army’s visuals as a nice background, built and painted in the same theme as the bases of my Corregidor army.

For this purpose I found a suitable wooden crate to be used as the base for entire diorama. I’ve also set up a makeshift display of miniatures to see if the base is large enought to accomodate them.

Corregidor Diorama wip 1

Corregidor Diorama wip 2

 

The wooden crate passed this test so I’ve  gathered 3mm PCV and some HDF leftovers. The entire layout of the diorama was taking life in my mind’s eye as I started to work on it. I’ve used the wooden crate as a template to cut a floor and a wall for the diorama. After that an idea to build a small balcony with stairs and a sniper point came to my mind. I quickly dig through any materials and pieces that might be used for that and found my good old Micro Art Studio’s walkways set. The set had some sweet looking pieces that I implemented into this project.

Corregidor Diorama wip 3

Corregidor Diorama wip 4

Using a ruler and a pen I drawn some makeshift panels and bolt holes on the ‘wall’ and prepared space for MDF pieces to be put into. I also shortened the MAS’s stairs and added elements of my own to make them look more industrial. Floor followed in a quick succession with the center being switched for a big MAS’s MDF panel. I also moundet the ‘wall’ using three screws. Initially I wanted to use magnets to keep the thing removable, but in the end I wanted for my miniatures to be safe. After that I’ve mounted three wall panels to be used as a base for glow globes. I also made some dents, marks and holes in the concrete panels of both wall and floor. Once I was done I’ve made a last check of display. Just before undercoating I had an idea to add some pipes and a vent along the walls to build even more industrial theme of the diorama. I used lollipop sticks and some leftovers to do that and proceeded to the undercoat.

Corregidor Diorama wip 5

Corregidor Diorama wip 6

Corregidor Diorama wip 7

Corregidor Diorama wip 8

Corregidor Diorama wip 10

Once it was dry I have covered the entire thing in two strong layers of Eshin Gray, then painted up all metal elements with a Tin Bitz, Boltgun Metal, Mithrill Silver layers and then washed entire thing with Devlan Mud two times. I slowly applied layer after layer starting with Scorched Brown, then following with Calthan Brown, Ryza Rust, Lugganath Orange and lastly Flayed One Flesh. This is the same colour scheme as the one used for my Concrete Bases. Actually both metal and concrete were painted the same way as in these tutorials:

TUTORIAL: CONCRETE BASES part 2: Painting

TUTORIAL: PAINTING ‘FIVE LAYERS’ METAL

Corregidor Diorama wip 11

Corregidor Diorama wip 12

Corregidor Diorama wip 13

Corregidor Diorama wip 14

Starting with Calthan Ryza Rust I’ve covered metal elements along with concrete panels, but before that I’ve made a short pause to airbrushed white-creeme lines and a Nomad graffitti. Ryza Rust, Lugganath Orange and Flayed One Flesh went over the lines to create an impression of them being damaged and eroded along with the concrete panels. Once Flayed One Flesh layer was done I lined/edged all the angles using the exact same piant. I also added grease/Rust streaks and oil stains here and there to bring the diorama closer to a life scene.

Corregidor Diorama wip 15

Corregidor Diorama wip 16

Corregidor Diorama wip 17

Corregidor Diorama wip 19

In the end I had to add a name, so I used a template created for me by Reycast Miniatures and airbrushed another graffitti onto the now black edges. Simple OSL was airbrushed and I mounted glow globes in the center points of each light. I also added three purple barrels to compensate glow globe’s green in preparation for red miniatures.

Corregidor Diorama wip 20

Corregidor Diorama wip 21

The final piece exceeded my expectations. Even my Girlfriend said it looks cool – and that’s rare! Damn – I count on this one to help me climb the ladder in the contest. If not – well, at least I have a fine piece to set up behind glass along with some less used Nomad Miniatures XD

Corregidor Diorama Done 2

Corregidor Diorama Done 3

Corregidor Diorama Done 4

PS:

27.6.2016: I actually won the painting contest XD Ultra happy about the fact! Here’s the entry:

Corregidor GO GO NOMADS Force on a Diorama Display

Zapisz

Zapisz

Zapisz

Zapisz

Zapisz

Zapisz

Zapisz

Zapisz

Zapisz

Zapisz

Zapisz

Zapisz

Scarhandpainting

Special Project: “Penthesilea”

This mini diorama is a ‘special’ kind of a Special Project. The Penthesilea, Amazon Warrioress is a part of ALEPH collection, but I was asked by a friend to make her somehow unique – just to stand out on a display.

Penthesilea s1

It took three failed attempts to base Penthesilea, as I was torn between many different options of a scenic base. I have tried to use a photo frame and model a wild west highway on it. I’ve tried to make a futuristic enviroment on a small wooden plinth. I even tried to use a coffee cap to base Penthesilea, but each time I just torn her off and tossed my creation into garbage (or hid it in the closet for later use). Salvation came to me in the form of a Micro Art Studio’s container, with which these guys filled a package of stuff I’ve ordered from them. “One man’s trash is another man’s treasure” and guys from MAS knew that I will have some use of their’s Kickstarter’s misscasts and leftovers. I cut the container in two and set up a nice background on it. Here’s a WIP pic:

Mirai WIP 1

This is how I actually started to work on this particular miniature – with a base instead of a model. After that it went pretty smooth with three days of painting, along with other miniatures. Each time I’ve ended up a key stage of this project, I was able to take a respite with another miniature, and then get back to Penthesilea. This pace kept me going with a lot of vigour, but also enabled me to look at Penthesilea with a bit of critique. I’ve corrected my mistakes at the start of each new stage and then followed adding new colours to the paint job. In the end I am very happy of how this one came out to be.

Mirai WIP 2

Here’s the final piece: “PENTHESILEA”

Penthesilea ss1

Penthesilea ss2

View complete Gallery…

Zapisz

Zapisz

Scarhandpainting

Colour Recipes: Warhammer 40,000 Imperial Fists

Here are some Colour Recipes for Warhammer 40,000 ‘Imperial Fists’ Space Marines from GALLERY: IMPERIAL FISTS lvl 3-4

Imperial Fists Hunter Stalker 2

YELLOW armour:

Corax White undercoat (GW),

White preshading*,

Gold Yellow 72.707 (Vallejo)*,

Soft Tone Ink (AP)*,

Matt Varnish (Vallejo)*,

Moldy Ochre (P3) edges,

Khaki 72.761 (Vallejo)*,

Earth 72.762 (Vallejo)*,

Dark Fleshtone 72.744 (Vallejo)* dirt,

*Airbrushed

IF pancerz WIP

BLUE OSL:

Light Sea Blue 71.089 (Vallejo)*,

White*,

Guilliman Blue Glaze (GW),

*Airbrushed,

BLUE Lens:

Teclis Blue (GW),

Hoeth Blue (GW),

Hoeth blue + White (GW),

White,

Guilliman Blue Glaze (GW),

White edges,

Imperial Fists Hunter Stalker 5

METAL:

TUTORIAL: PAINTING ‘FIVE LAYERS’ METAL

 

BLACK:

Black,

Frostbite (P3) edges,

White edges,

Khaki 72.761 (Vallejo)*,

Earth 72.762 (Vallejo)*,

*Airbrushed

Scarhandpainting