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MODELLING TUTORIALS

TUTORIAL: EXPLODING MINIATURES

In this easy, step-by-step tutorial I’m going to show you how to create an ‘explosion from inside’ effect on the miniatures. Personally I use this method to create exploding mines or in this case Crazy Koalas from Infinity the game, but the number of potential uses is limited only by your imagination. That being said, buckle up and have a nice ride.

I USED:

  • Super Glue,
  • Green Stuff,
  • Modelling Tools,
  • Two ‘Crazy Koala’ miniatures,

1  I started with cutting the miniature diagonally in two. I didn't thought too much about where to cut, just about the waist, leaving one hand attached to the lower part of the body.

2  I then rolled some Green Stuff and glued it onto the lower body part.

3  Next I applied a small drop of Super Glue onto the Green Stuff and attached the upper body part to it.

4  Then I squeezed both part, forcing the Green Stuff out.

5  Next I gently pulled both body parts away, creating a gap with rended Green Stuff inbetween the parts.

6  Next I rolled another piece of Green Stuff and repeated the technique, adding head to the miniature.

7  After pulling the head away I used a modelling tool to stretch the excess Green Stuff to the sides.

8  I also applied Super Glue onto the Green Stuff to fasten it's hardening.

The end result is below:

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TUTORIAL: MODELLING WITCH HUNTER’S HAT

Last weeks I’ve been diverting more and more attention to Mordheim. Maybe that’s because I’ve been playing PC version lately. Either way, every couple of years I get that ‘Mordheim fever’ and delve deep into my imagination, staying up whole nights, making something cool for my own Mordheim collection. Right now I work on a brand new Mordheim gaming board thus I figured out to revive an old Tutorial from Mordheim Treasure Hunters blog and add it to the collection here at Scarhandpainting. More articles are already prepared, but I somehow felt like this one will be a nice way to close the 2016th.

wh 3

Below I will show you a quick way of making a Witch Hunter’s Hat with basic tools, some green stuff and some plastic leftovers. The thing about Witch Hunter’s Hats is that they are extremely rare and yet they look just awesome. A lot of miniatures can be reborn as proper Witch Hunters just by adding this small detail. So, here’s how I do it:

I USED:

* Modelling Knife,
* Sculpting Tools,
* Modellin File,
* Green Stuff,
* Super Glue,
* Some round and flat plastic bitz (heads in helmets will do too),
* Some tubular sprue plastic bitz (easy to get as they’re in almost every sprue),

wh hat 3

1  I started with preparation of hat parts. For this purpose I used round shaped plastic bitz, cutting off the excess of plastic with Modelling Knife first, then flattening the top area with a Modelling File. Next I used a Modelling Knife to cut tubular sprue bitz into nice hat top pieces. This is how it should look like when done:

wh hat 4

2  I then glued the pieces together, prepared a piece of Green Stuff and rolled it into a thin line. I also cut small pieces of Green Stuff loose and rolled them into small balls.

wh hat 5

3  I applied some Super Glue around the connection between hat's top and brim. I then applied a Green Stuff rolled piece onto the glue and flattened it with a Sculpting Tool modelling it into a strap. For this purpose I used a rounded part just behind the tip of a Sculpting Tool.

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4  I smoothed the texture of starps using a Sculpting Tool dipped in water. I then left the hats to dry.

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5  Once the Green Stuff dried out I applied Super Glue onto a piece of plastic, sticked a Green Stuff ball onto the tip of a Sculpting Tool, gently dipped it in the glue and applied it to a hat's strip. I also flattened the ball with the other (rounded) end of a Sculpting Tool thus creating a clasp.

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6  In the end I modelled a pattern on each clasp with the sharp tip of a Sculpting Tool. Once it was done I let the Green Stuff to dry out. Instead of modelling a clasp yourself, you can use any well sized bitz or even a piece of plastic. Actually anything fitting the hat's strap will do.

wh hat 9

The final effect may not be outstanding but it will do the job of transforming your Imperial Mercenary, or any other miniature into a badass Witch Hunter. See for yourself in the  Warband: ‘Scourge of the Witches’ gallery. Here’s a preview pic:

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I hope you like the tutorial. It is an old piece but I really wanted to have it here at Scarhandpainting.

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TUTORIAL: DIY CANDLES

Winter is already here thus I thought about warming the theme a bit by introducing a tutorial of how to make candles for 28-30mm scale. Why produce such things? In miniatures hobby candles are rare bitz among what you get in the sets designed by main miniature producers. Even if a set contains some, their number is scarce. Why not make your own and adorn bases, miniatures and even scenery with them? Be it Age of Sigmar, Mordheim, Warhammer 40,000 or just a fantasy dungeon – candles will provide mood to both miniatures and scenery. Below is a quick and easy step-by-step of how to produce your own 28-30mm scale candles. Enjoy…

I USED:

  • Super Glue,
  • Basing Glue,
  • Toothpicks,
  • Tissue,
  • Thin Wire,
  • Modelling Tools,

1  I started with preparation of candles-to-be by cutting toothpicks into small pieces. I tried to keep all of them between 5-10mm long, to better fit into the 28-30mm fantasy scale. Once I had couple pieces done I choose some of them and drilled small holes from one side. These will be used later to hold candlewicks.

2  Next I glued the candles onto the base. In case of scenery I usually drill small holes to hold the candles in place or just glue them as it is if I'm sure the scenery won't require enchanced durability. For the purpose of this tutorial I drilled some holes in an old square Warhammer base.

3  I then glued small pieces of wire into the holes, to look like candlewicks.

4  Then came the time to cover the candles with a basing glue, applying additional glue around the base of each candle to create an effect of spilled wax.

5  Next step was to prepare couple of small flames, using a wet paper tissue. I just rolled, then cut it into small pieces, which I then rolled once again.

6  The flames where then glued to the candles with super glue and once in place - covered with glue to harden entirely.

7  I left the stuff to dry, then painted it with mix of creme and white, washed the candlewicks and flames with some washes.

The end result will look more or less like this:

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TUTORIAL: HEAVY SNOW

There’s plenty of ‘how to make snow‘ tutorials in the web. Some are better than the others, still I do preffer to use my own technique when it comes to modelling snow. During many years of painting I tested this technique using a variety of materials, including baking soda, fine-grained white sand, salt and couple different modelling snow products. As it came out – Citadel Modelling Snow works best for me, producing a heavy, white coverage of snow. Yup – some techniques make snow look much more realistic, but just as Modelling Tufts – snow should compliment the miniature’s colour scheme and style. If you saw my Gallery then you know that I tend to pick rather colorful schemes for my works, thus my snow must look strong, heavy and white.  Below is the tutorial of making such a snow…

Snow 0

I USED:

  • Super Glue,
  • Citadel Modelling Snow,
  • White Paint,

Snow 1

1  I applied some Super Glue onto the previously painted surface...                                                       

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2  I applied a quick fat layer of Citadel Modelling Snow and left it be for around fifteen seconds...

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3  After Super Glue dried out, holding some snow in it, I shaked down all the remaining snow and applied another layer of Super Glue...

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4  Then I applied another layer of snow - even bigger than the first one. This time I left it dry for around five minutes...

Snow 6

5  I shaked down all the remaining snow and used a soft brush to brush away all the little snow specks that were left on the base...

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6  I used a large brush to apply some White Paint. I did not use drybrush technique, just some wet paint applied with a brush moved in one direction...

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The final effect on the table looks like this:

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I hope you like this effect and that this tutorial will work fine for you.

 

 

 

 

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TUTORIAL: INFINITY DIY CONSOLE

You may consider this short tutorial to be an extension of “Tutorial: Infinity ‘Do It Yourself’ Gaming Terrain” article, in which I tried to inspire you to begin a hunt for some awesome day by day items. Pieces of what might be considered garbage, that usually end up trashed – while they are a source of unlimited potential, when it comes to terrain making. I wonder how it’s been for some of you – have you found some great ‘trash’? Made any awesome terrain pieces? I myself am working on my Gaming Terrain once more, (see: “The Colony: Special Project” article) and inspiration tend to tease me at every step. For example – yesterday I was taking a shower when I saw this piece of art:

Consol x1

Isn’t that a wonderfull thing? It just screams ‘I am a terrain piece – release me from this earthly form!’ Cosmetics plugs are a constant source of ideas for me – but this one just blown my mind!

I USED:

  • Cosmetics plug,
  • Modelling Knife,
  • Super Glue,
  • Piece of Plasticard,
  • Plastik round base,

 

Consol 5

Instead of usual step-by-step I will just give you a hint of how this one was done. First of all I separated the plug from the rest of the bottle. Removed the upper part, then started to cut some small pieces of plasticard. Once I had enought pieces I used glue to compose a small town that fitted ‘inside the dome’. I used plasticard to make four legs for this ‘futuristic console’, put them together and mounted whole thing on the base. After that I just sprayed whole thing with white and made some smudges with a sandy colour. In the end I mounted the dome back on top of the plug – that’s it 🙂

Here are some pictures:

Consol x2

Consol x4

Consol x3

Consol 1

Consol 3

So, now I have a Console to fit into an Objective Room – hope to bring more pieces like this to life in near fiture 😉

 

Two days later...

ao Consoles

Alternative ‘dirty’ colour scheme on a new, simple approach to the consoles. Options are unlimited…

 

 

 

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TUTORIAL: INFINITY ‘DO IT YOURSELF’ GAMING TERRAIN

In this tutorial I will show you a shortcut to some awesome Terrain Making. Together we will plunge head on into the distant future of ‘Infinity the Game’. We end up knee deep in terrain pieces, surrounded by half cheved bitz of plasticard, with our fingertips bleeding, clothes devastated by super glue and wallets full of unspent cash! A truly manly adventure awaits us and that’s why I’ve prepared some Terrain Making theory to prepare you for what is to come and remodel the way you think about it.

THEORETICAL

Terrain Making is a topic to write a book about. There is just so many different aproaches a modeller can take on a road to create some awesome gaming terrain. I would be lying if I told you that I am able to cover all of that here, in this tutorial. Instead I will concentrate on some key points of Terrain Making that I keep in mind whenever I happen to make some scenery.

PLANNING:

The first thing to do is planning. I’m not a big fan of this part and usually skip it, still some key points of planning take place almost unconsciously. Just sort the ideas, prepare funds for eventual purchases, set a theme and go for it!

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– Price of beauty. Long years of gaming and terrain making showed me that a nice looking table may look even better if pumped with some pre-made stuff. Just throw some money into this project and see how much it changed when it comes to how it looks. Think of a sum that you would like to invest in your gaming table – have in mind that except for some necessary stuff like paints, glue, spray, your gaming table can still be built with 0 cash involved.

– Avoid Expensive stuff. I just told you to spend some cash but be thoughtful with that. Try to pinpoint the most expensive elements of your future gaming table and substitute them with some cheap alternatives. This way you not only save some cash but also will not brind huge visual diversity to your terrain set. [A good example of an expensive terrain piece that could be easily replaced.]

– Be a pragmatist. Keep it fast and simple to build. I too had a boner when seeing this gaming table but hey – it’s like a billion € and countless hours spent on putting these things together. Remember that cash equals time and vice versa. If earning cash to purchase a terrain piece and putting that piece together will take you less time than making one yourself – just go for it. Otherwise it’s worth to keep it at speed. A nice looking gaming table can be built and painted in less than 16 hours!

– Select a theme. A ravaged battlefield, futuristic city, space hulk hallways, huge magazines, train station, rich district – what you will choose will affect the materials you will need and a level of complexity ergo ‘time’ you will need to build your gaming table. A good theme is an average between price, time of build and LOOKS. Low on cash and time? Try out Magazine space full of barrels and containers. Plenty of cash and time? Go for a pristine Rich Quarters with fountains, streets, bridges and detailed buildings.

MATERIAL:

In order to create a gaming table you will need a lot of different materials. Plasticard, cardboard, thin wood are considered to be ‘common’ while bitz and parts of particular shapes are more difficult to obtain.

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– Have an open mind. There’s plenty awesome items surrounding you all of the time. Most of them end up as trash while they might be used as modelling material of exceptional value. Just go to the kitchen and look around. Plastic bottle caps of different shapes and sizes, coffee jar lids – these are the tip of an iceberg!

– Ride the outside world. Home ‘trash’ is your brick and mortar when it comes to Terrain Making but true pearls belong to the world outside. Just outside your doors you can find some nice looking stones and sticks but further you venture the better your loot will get. Go ahead and visit a supermarket. Toys, hair utensils, cheap (crappy) plastic jewelry, tools section, decorations – these places are marked with ‘X’ for ‘treasure’!

– Be like modern China, steal blueprints. Many different companies created a variety of splendid gaming terrain. Once you type “Infinity Gaming Terrain” in google you will find a lot of great inspiration to draw your ideas from. You can even purchase some and use leftovers to pimp the visual effect of your home made terrains or go even further and rearrange purchased terrain to have some additional spare bitz left!

CONSTRUCTION:

Finally a part of raw hard work! If you picked a theme that goes along with your funds and time that you are willing to invest – this part will be a lot of fun for you.

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– Durability. Gaming terrain should be tough as otherwise you risk games ended up being forced to do some repairs. Try to create terrain that is well ballanced and easy to game with. I recommend that you base all of the smaller terrain pieces as this will improve their balance along with visuals. Just remember to never use cardboard for basing as it usually bends over time. The recommended materials are: plasticard, plywood (both can be seen in the picture above).

– Utility. Gaming terrain is supposed to be gamed upon. I know – some small, sweet looking, extremely detailed pieces makes me wanna cry with joy, but are they as playable as simple, angular blocks of terrain? The answer is NO and have that in mind. Additionally it is worth to measure some heights to better fit the miniatures. For example: A barrel of the same height as a miniature will usually force you to wonder if a miniature standing behind it has LOF to other miniatures? Well usually it does due to use of silhouettes so it’s better to build barrels that are half the miniature’s height. Etc.

[Once again a good example of an expensive and not very playable terrain piece.]This building is looking great but it is expensive, the cover it provides on the ground level is limited, it is too high for some miniatures to go to the roof in a single action forcing you to remember where the miniature is left hanging.

– Clusters. When it comes to small terrain pieces it is the best to keep them clustered on a single base. They will stay in place and provide a wide cover instead of falling apart and moving around the table each time someone ccidentally pushes it.

– Clones. I’m an enemy of a ruler. I just hate to spend lots of time measuring plasticard/cardboard pieces of same dimensions. I preffer to measure up one piece, then cut the rest using the ‘primary’ piece as a template. Even if some pieces get a bit different from one another this will only add some extra touch to the overall looks of my gaming terrain. [Use this technique at your own discretion.]

– Production line. Plan your work accordingly. Start by preparing all the necessary pieces, put them together and base all the terrain pieces. Do not start to paint before all the terrain is ready for it. This way your work will be a bit less rewarding but you will save a lot of time. Same goes for painting: Do not paint a single terrain piece but paint them in droves instead. Just as you end up applying a layer to the last piece, the first one will get dry and ready for the next layer.

So here’s a shortcut recipee for you:
– Prepare funds then cut the expensives off,
– Plan what to buy/build and how long it’ll take, (be a pragmatist),
– Choose a theme according to your capabilities,
– Pillage your house for free trash material,
– Pillage nearby supermarket for some key material pieces, [keep it cheap.]
– Use some purchased terrain and leftovers to create your own variations,
– Make your terrains durable, balanced and playable,
– Keep small terrain pieces based together,
– Save time while preparing particular bitz by using one as a template to cut the rest out,
– End one stage before moving to the next one,

PRACTICAL:

I feel your pain. That wall of text above is probably as hard to read for you as it was for me and I read it more than thrice. Let’s go to the Practical part of this Tutorial with some examples and more pictures. I will use my own gaming table prepared last year as an example of how to do it in accordance to above tips.

PLANNING:

Back then I was short of time and wanted to create a gaming table designed for Infinity ASAP. I love Micro Art Studio’s terrain and wanted to purchase a whole set of it along with some Spartan Scenics. Cash was not an issue but once a test purchase was delivered I almost dropped the project due to time consuming process of putting these terrains together. It was a hell of a boredome so I decided to go ahead and prepare my own gaming table. I choose something between Mass Effect ‘Citadel’ and Death Star outer surface style Theme and already owning a Micro Art Studio’s catwalk set I decided tu cut off the most expensive thing: Buildings. Small part of the surplus cash was to be used on static grass and a Battle Mat that would eventually pump the visual effect of the gaming table.

mass effect

MATS/CONSTRUCTION:

Being a pragmatist I decided to use a hard cardboard boxes as the main bodies on the gaming board. Easy to obtain in friendly local hobby store, easy to prepare, light (transportaion), stable, very playable – the cardboard boxes prove to be an extrmely good pick. Some spare parts from catwalk set let me upgrade my ‘buildings’ with a nice set of futuristic ladders. The plan was to improve the visual effect by adding some facture with paintjob.

Once I was done with the buildings I moved to all the other stuff. Less futuristic but very playable and bringing some colour to my gaming table came Barrels, Trash Containers, Holograms, inner walls and some key terrain pieces. Here’s an example:

Infinity Terrain 3

PARTICULAR TERRAIN PIECES:

Barrels: Plastic bottle caps of coca cola, milk and water. I find the ones with less facture being the best as the paint looks much better on irregular flat areas. I drink a lot of Coca Cola Zero in addition to milk and water so I used most of the caps being kept in home 🙂

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Trash Containers: Tic-tac pack upper parts. Some were additionally converted but looking past I think that I should leave them be as they have a perfect shape on their own.

inf ter tut 18dumbsters 1

Holograms: Old Warhammer 40,000 tokens, easy to obtain at second hand market and as these are rarely used – they come in cheap. I had some left from my own Warhammer 40,000 collection and purchased another set from a friend.

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Inner Walls: Rectangle Chessex Dice packs being emptied and thrown away by a local hobby store. Some walls were also made of wooden blocks. Some have been updated with facture made of wooden spare parts left from Micro Art’s catwalk set.

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All the leftovers were used to build this Relay Beacon, leaving not a single bitz unused.

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This particular gaming board was made with rush thus I had to update it from time to time adding extra touch with new sets of scenery. Just recently I wandered into the Supermarket in search of some final pieces to strengthen the theme of Sci-fi quarters. I found these cool items:

Plastic hair holder / 1,5€is a masterpiese of both architecture and art. A fine centerpiece for my gaming table. I bought two of these and made them into this:

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Decorative beads / 2€ will one day be used to make a set of awesome light globes all around my flat white buildings. For now they served as additional facture for new set of Trash Containers.

inf ter tut 17main theme

So here we are. My gaming table took less than 24hrs in total to complete and that if all the add-ons are being counted. The overall cost of this project is Micro Art catwalk set, Micro Art hologram banner set, Micro Art gaming mat, warhammer 40,000 tokens, two hair holders, a pack of decorative beads, a can of white spray, some paints, glue, brushes. It’s around 150€ + 24hrs worth of my work (which could be much less if I only made all these stuff in one go). All the other items I’ve managed to get for free. Now I have a very playable and rather nice looking gaming table, designed for Infinity and fully packable into a single box XD

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!  If i haven't purchased Micro Art Studio's awesome stuff the overall cost of this gaming table would be close to 50€

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I hope that you will find this tutorial both helpful and inspiring. In case of any questions just leave me a comment in the comment section below.

PS: The pictures below were made couple of days ago in a local mall, which was modernized recently. Now it looks just as my vision of what this gaming table is supposed to represent 🙂 Welcome to the future – few years from now and we will see some Heavy Infantry in live action 🙂

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TUTORIAL: INFINITY HACKING DEVICE HOLOPROJECTOR

Recently I’ve decided to take my previous Hacking Device Holoprojector concept to a higher level. The key point was to use the same base material: a Coca Cola bottle plastic, but instead of painting simbols and lines on it – make it look more like a complex holo projection with many ‘windows’ opened at once. A devious plan formed in my mind and here I am sharing it with all who are eager to read it!

Inf Nomad Hacker 1

I USED:

* Scissors,
* Twizzers,
* Super Glue,
* Coca Cola bottle XD
* Piece of plastic/brass mesh,

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1  Using Scissors cut a small piece of Brass Mesh and a small piece of Coca Cola bottle.

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2  Still using Scissors cut a piece of Plastic into small rectangles.

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3  Use some oval shaped tool to softly bend both the Brass Mesh piece and Plastic rectangles.

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4  Using Super Glue, attach the Brass Mesh piece to a miniature.

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!  I recommend to paint the miniature along with Brass Mesh piece at this point.

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5  Using Tweezers and Super Glue attach Plastic rectangles to a painted Brass Mesh.

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6  It is done, but you can apply some Skull White onto the edges of Plastic rectangles to make them look more 3D.

Inf Nomad Hacker 2

And that’s it 🙂 Whole process takes up to 10 minutes so I decided to remove old Holoprojectors from my Nomadic Hackers and install brand new ‘software’. Hope you give it a try 😉

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TUTORIAL: PHALLOSO DREADNOUGHT

Are you a true Warhammer 40k fan? Do you play Space Marines like all grown men? Do you want to dominate the Warhammer 40k tournaments? Do you intend to strike fear with your Space Marines? If the answer is yes then this tutorial is something for you!

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A Dreadnought is the embodiment of Warhammer 40k, Space Marines and Fear. A mighty warrior once fighting in countless battles to finally give his life ‘for the Emperor!’ and spend eternity encased in the cold confines of a Dreadnought carapace. Even among Dreadnoughts there is none mightier and more feared than Phalloso type. Armed with two powerful Dick-shaped close combat weapons the Phalloso strikes fear in the hearts of all enemies, including Necron and Tyranids! There is a saying among the Imperials that ‘to die by the… hands of a Phalloso Dreadnought is to taste fate worse than to be consumed by the Gods of Chaos themselves’

!  BEFORE YOU PROCEED - GO ON AND BUY A DREADNOUGHT!

TUTORIAL: HOW TO MAKE A PHALLOSO DREADNOUGHT

1) Using Citadel Hobby Knife* get inside the box! There’s a Dreadnought waiting to be born!
* Remember to reattach a special protective cover when you’re done. You don’t want to harm yourself!

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2) The box, assembly instruction and transfer sheets are all garbage* for ladylike kids – trash them immediately!

*”But i like the transfer sheets” WHOOOOT?! Stop this tutorial right now and do not – i repeat – DO NOT lay your womanish hands on a sacred plates of a Dreadnought! Go and collect some Eldar!

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3) Using Citadel Plastic Cutters remove two Dreadnought Close Combat Weapon base parts* from the sprues. I know that for a srong man’s hands Plastic Cutters are poor and unnatural tool but one must suffer if one is to create a magnificent work!

*”What about other parts?” Don’t worry, we will get there in time. The most important thing in modelling is to plan your work accordingly!

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4) We finally got there! From now on all the modelling stuff will get more manworthy! Using Citadel Hobby Vice* cut some Green Stuff into pieces!

*Some poor modellers disregard Citadel Hobby Vice as useless. If someone tells you not to buy one  then he’s modelling skills are probably far below the mediocree level.

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5) Time for some sculpting. First prepare a Green Stuff ball anr roll it down with Citadel Clean-up Tool*.

*This tool is pretty useless but hey – we’ve just found a use for it!
Now sculpt the D’claws starting with the head and foreskin. The more love you’ll put to it the more fear it will strike in the future.

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6) After gluing the D’claws to the Dreadnought’s forehands place them into the Vice and under a strong light source. Heat will quicken the process of hardening and you will be able to start modelling some ammo clips. Start by chopping more Green Stuff pieces with Citadel Razor Saw and create four balls from it. Polish the balls with Citadel Clean-up Brush so that they shine* nicely.

*This will bring additional terror effect as the light reflected by the balls will imitate that of Emperor’s own halo!

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7) Do you feel your testosterone pumping in your vanes?! LEt it loose by reaping off all the rest of the Dreadnought’s bitz out of sprues. Use man-friendly Citadel Hobby Vice to do it and sing THIS SONG while doing so!

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8) For most of us gluing small bitz together is the worst of all nightmares! It usually ends up with fingers, trousers and literally everything glued together but for the parts intended. Do not falter tho as you can deceive the system and use two* Citaled Hobby Vice to do the work.

*Double the Vice, double the fury, double the MAN POWER!
Remember to drill some with Citadel Hobby Drill. It is not necessary but it’s a lot of fun and your girlrfiend will get into good mood if she sees it.

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9) You now have two mighty weapons for your Phalloso Dreadnought but he still misses one vital part – it’s soul – the Sarcophagus! Do not bother to use a regular hobby file to prepare the front part of the Sarcophagus as it will take forever to make it done. Use the all-powerful Citadel Emery Boards to flatten the surface, then put some Green Stuff on it and sculpt* a nice Cock ornament on it.

*The best tool for the job is the back of Citadel Hobby Saw!

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10) Just add some final touch by futher polishing the Phalloso Dreadnought with Citadel Clean-up Brush. Remember that every minute devoted to the task will earn you advantage in future battles!

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11) It’s finally done! The Phalloso Dreadnought is ready for battle and you can rest assured that it’ll scare the hell out of your opponents! You can sip some pure whiskey out of Citadel Brush Cup while admiring your work…

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TUTORIAL: CONCRETE BASES part 1: Modelling

Ever wanted to make some cool looking bases for your Infinity models? Here’s a tutorial of how to do it 🙂

I USED:

*Round bases,
*Plastticard,
*Some SF bitz,
*Modelling Knife, File, Sculpting Tool and glue,

Instead of SF bitz you can use literally anything including toothpick, brass mesh, pieces of computer, irregular pieces of plastic etc.

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1  Attach some bitz onto the bases using Super glue. You don't have to fit these bitz ideally, just place them so that they create a nice composition with the rest of the base.

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2  Now glue some small pieces of plasticard around the bitz. Try not to use too much glue as it may spill onto the edge of the base. If need be you may want to prepare plastticard pieces to ideally fit around bitz you've used.

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3  Use sharp modelling knife to delicatelly cut off all the excessive plasticard. Use the edge of the base to guide the knife's cutting edge.

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4  Here's how the effect of your work should look like:

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5  It is a good idea to further smooth the edges using knife so they will be easier to file later on.

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6  Now it is time to get rid of protruding bitz. The quickest way to do it is to use plastic cutters.

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7  Next step is to file the edges of both plastic bitz and plasticard.

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8  The work is almost at an end. The bases will look much better with some facture added to them. Use a sculpting tool or other similar object to carve some futuristic straight lines and bolt holes.

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9  You can easily add some battle damage. Just embed the modelling knife in the edge of the base and then pull it up to rend some plasticard chunks out of it.

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That is all – you’ve just made a SF, battle damaged base for yourself.

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End Result:

Nomad Moran 1

Be sure to check out another part of this tutorial at: CONCRETE BASES TUTORIAL part 2: Painting
Nazroth
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