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Tag Archives: Tutorial

Tutorial: Cave Bases

In this easy, step-by-step tutorial I’m going to show you how to create a Cave Base.

I USED:

  • Super Glue,
  • Basing Glue,
  • Toothpicks and nail sticks*
  • Small gravel stones**
  • Games Workshop Texture Paints,

*Ask your GF if you don’t know where to obtain the latter.

**Search in IKEA or any home/garden store. A lifetime stockpile of these is less than 5€.

 

1  I started by cutting off the tips of both toothpicks and nail sticks. These would do for fine stalagmites later on.

2  I then applied couple of drops of basing glue onto the base. Before it dried out I applied Super Glue on it and mounted stalagmites, tip upwards, on the mix.

3  Next I covered entire stalagmites with basing glue and left it to dry. The excess glue, moved by the power of gravity, was drawn downwards, where it rested around the base of the stalagmites, making them look smooth and natural.

4  Using the previous technique I applied some basing glue in few spots and then Super Glue'ed some gravel over it. You can actually glue any type of stuff with this - like skulls, some pieces of armour etc.

5  I then covered antire surface, except for any fillers, with Games Workshop's texture paints. I used a mix of Agrellan Earth and Agrellan Badland for this tutorial, but actually any of the range will do - as long as you would like to undercoat the base afterwards.

6  The final step was to undercoat dried out base with Chaos Black spray...

Now, what’s left is just to paint the bases with your preferable colour scheme. I chose to go red/copper style similar to ‘the Wave’ and watered some spots with clear resin, but the number of potential colour schemes is unlimited.

If you ever use the tutorial – be sure to let me know and send some pictures via FACEBOOK. I will be happy to see how it turned out 😉

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Scarhandpainting

Tutorial: Modelling Exploding Miniatures

In this easy, step-by-step tutorial I’m going to show you how to create an ‘explosion from inside’ effect on the miniatures. Personally I use this method to create exploding mines or in this case Crazy Koalas from Infinity the game, but the number of potential uses is limited only by your imagination. That being said, buckle up and have a nice ride.

I USED:

  • Super Glue,
  • Green Stuff,
  • Modelling Tools,
  • Two ‘Crazy Koala’ miniatures,

1  I started with cutting the miniature diagonally in two. I didn't thought too much about where to cut, just about the waist, leaving one hand attached to the lower part of the body.

2  I then rolled some Green Stuff and glued it onto the lower body part.

3  Next I applied a small drop of Super Glue onto the Green Stuff and attached the upper body part to it.

4  Then I squeezed both part, forcing the Green Stuff out.

5  Next I gently pulled both body parts away, creating a gap with rended Green Stuff inbetween the parts.

6  Next I rolled another piece of Green Stuff and repeated the technique, adding head to the miniature.

7  After pulling the head away I used a modelling tool to stretch the excess Green Stuff to the sides.

8  I also applied Super Glue onto the Green Stuff to fasten it's hardening.

The end result is below:

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Scarhandpainting

Tutorial: Modelling Witch Hunter’s Hat

Last weeks I’ve been diverting more and more attention to Mordheim. Maybe that’s because I’ve been playing PC version lately. Either way, every couple of years I get that ‘Mordheim fever’ and delve deep into my imagination, staying up whole nights, making something cool for my own Mordheim collection. Right now I work on a brand new Mordheim gaming board thus I figured out to revive an old Tutorial from Mordheim Treasure Hunters blog and add it to the collection here at Scarhandpainting. More articles are already prepared, but I somehow felt like this one will be a nice way to close the 2016th.

wh 3

Below I will show you a quick way of making a Witch Hunter’s Hat with basic tools, some green stuff and some plastic leftovers. The thing about Witch Hunter’s Hats is that they are extremely rare and yet they look just awesome. A lot of miniatures can be reborn as proper Witch Hunters just by adding this small detail. So, here’s how I do it:

I USED:

* Modelling Knife,
* Sculpting Tools,
* Modellin File,
* Green Stuff,
* Super Glue,
* Some round and flat plastic bitz (heads in helmets will do too),
* Some tubular sprue plastic bitz (easy to get as they’re in almost every sprue),

wh hat 3

1  I started with preparation of hat parts. For this purpose I used round shaped plastic bitz, cutting off the excess of plastic with Modelling Knife first, then flattening the top area with a Modelling File. Next I used a Modelling Knife to cut tubular sprue bitz into nice hat top pieces. This is how it should look like when done:

wh hat 4

2  I then glued the pieces together, prepared a piece of Green Stuff and rolled it into a thin line. I also cut small pieces of Green Stuff loose and rolled them into small balls.

wh hat 5

3  I applied some Super Glue around the connection between hat's top and brim. I then applied a Green Stuff rolled piece onto the glue and flattened it with a Sculpting Tool modelling it into a strap. For this purpose I used a rounded part just behind the tip of a Sculpting Tool.

wh hat 6

4  I smoothed the texture of starps using a Sculpting Tool dipped in water. I then left the hats to dry.

wh hat 7

5  Once the Green Stuff dried out I applied Super Glue onto a piece of plastic, sticked a Green Stuff ball onto the tip of a Sculpting Tool, gently dipped it in the glue and applied it to a hat's strip. I also flattened the ball with the other (rounded) end of a Sculpting Tool thus creating a clasp.

wh hat 8

6  In the end I modelled a pattern on each clasp with the sharp tip of a Sculpting Tool. Once it was done I let the Green Stuff to dry out. Instead of modelling a clasp yourself, you can use any well sized bitz or even a piece of plastic. Actually anything fitting the hat's strap will do.

wh hat 9

The final effect may not be outstanding but it will do the job of transforming your Imperial Mercenary, or any other miniature into a badass Witch Hunter. See for yourself in the  Warband: ‘Scourge of the Witches’ gallery. Here’s a preview pic:

wh hat 10

I hope you like the tutorial. It is an old piece but I really wanted to have it here at Scarhandpainting.

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Scarhandpainting

Tutorial: DIY Candles

Winter is already here thus I thought about warming the theme a bit by introducing a tutorial of how to make candles for 28-30mm scale. Why produce such things? In miniatures hobby candles are rare bitz among what you get in the sets designed by main miniature producers. Even if a set contains some, their number is scarce. Why not make your own and adorn bases, miniatures and even scenery with them? Be it Age of Sigmar, Mordheim, Warhammer 40,000 or just a fantasy dungeon – candles will provide mood to both miniatures and scenery. Below is a quick and easy step-by-step of how to produce your own 28-30mm scale candles. Enjoy…

I USED:

  • Super Glue,
  • Basing Glue,
  • Toothpicks,
  • Tissue,
  • Thin Wire,
  • Modelling Tools,

1  I started with preparation of candles-to-be by cutting toothpicks into small pieces. I tried to keep all of them between 5-10mm long, to better fit into the 28-30mm fantasy scale. Once I had couple pieces done I choose some of them and drilled small holes from one side. These will be used later to hold candlewicks.

2  Next I glued the candles onto the base. In case of scenery I usually drill small holes to hold the candles in place or just glue them as it is if I'm sure the scenery won't require enchanced durability. For the purpose of this tutorial I drilled some holes in an old square Warhammer base.

3  I then glued small pieces of wire into the holes, to look like candlewicks.

4  Then came the time to cover the candles with a basing glue, applying additional glue around the base of each candle to create an effect of spilled wax.

5  Next step was to prepare couple of small flames, using a wet paper tissue. I just rolled, then cut it into small pieces, which I then rolled once again.

6  The flames where then glued to the candles with super glue and once in place - covered with glue to harden entirely.

7  I left the stuff to dry, then painted it with mix of creme and white, washed the candlewicks and flames with some washes.

The end result will look more or less like this:

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Scarhandpainting

Tutorial: Desert Rocky Bases

Below is a quick five-colour Step-by-step about painting rocky desert bases. I used this method to base a big army of wh40k Tau – be sure to see the end results in GALLERY: WARHAMMER 40,000 TAU lvl 3

I USED:

  • Airbrush,
  • Large flat brush,
  • Regular brush,
  • Black undercoat,
  • German Red Brown (Vallejo) Surface Primer,
  • Earth (Vallejo Game Air),
  • Light Brown (Vallejo Model Air),
  • European Dust (Vallejo Wash),
  • Flayed One Flesh (GW),

 

Desert Rock Bases 2

1  I have undercoated (Airbrush) the entire base with Black paint. To properly undercoat the jagged edges of cork I've added some water to the plack paint and then used a Large flat brush to apply the mixture over this surface.

Desert Rock Bases 3

2  I have airbsrushed German Red Brown onto the entire base. It does not had to be precise, just enought to cover the cork and some bigger flats of sand.

Desert Rock Bases 4

3  Still using airbrush I've applied Earth colour over the surface. This time I ensured that some areas of the cork will be less covered than the others. The process was almost random - just picked some spots to have more paint.

Desert Rock Bases 5

4  Light Brown followed, being airbrushed over the base. Once again I tried to cover some spots better than the others. This time tho I tried not to paint over sand too much, just some delicate puffs of paint.

Desert Rock Bases 6

5  Once the paint was utterly dry I sprayed European Dust over the entire base. The layer had to be thin, just enought to cover the base without leaving any stains.

Desert Rock Bases 7

6  Lastly I used a large flat brush to drybrushed the entire base with Flayed One Flesh. Once it was done I also edged some major edges of the cork with the same colour. Clean black rant of the base followed.

Desert Rock Bases 8

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Special Project: “Go Go Nomads” Diorama Display

Foreboding my previous lifestyle in favor of painting for hire was the best decission in my entire life. Not only that I have a lot of fun in my ‘job’ but also plenty of time for my own projects. For those who knew me before scarhandpainting.com the number of Special Projects appearing lately might be quite a surprise. I myself am taken aback by the sheer numbers of personal projects I can work on. Below is a visual step-by-step of just such a project.

GO GO NOMADS

A big Infinity Event is closing in. ‘Polish Championships’ will take place tomorrow and I’ve trained my Corregiror army and dice rolling hard in preparation. Along with the usual mano-a-mano combat, a Painting Contest will also take place at the event. Each player is eligible to select one of his army rosters and present the miniatures for everyone to see and vote. I thought long and hard to think of anything that could deliver my miniatures to the podium. I know very well that there’s plenty of awesome painters among the Infinity community in Poland and that competition will be very strong. My miniatures look nice but not awesome enought to compete with paint jobs that literally blow my mind. I’ve figured something special – a Nomad-like trick to fight for the attention of voters. A special display diorama to compliment my army’s visuals as a nice background, built and painted in the same theme as the bases of my Corregidor army.

For this purpose I found a suitable wooden crate to be used as the base for entire diorama. I’ve also set up a makeshift display of miniatures to see if the base is large enought to accomodate them.

Corregidor Diorama wip 1

Corregidor Diorama wip 2

 

The wooden crate passed this test so I’ve  gathered 3mm PCV and some HDF leftovers. The entire layout of the diorama was taking life in my mind’s eye as I started to work on it. I’ve used the wooden crate as a template to cut a floor and a wall for the diorama. After that an idea to build a small balcony with stairs and a sniper point came to my mind. I quickly dig through any materials and pieces that might be used for that and found my good old Micro Art Studio’s walkways set. The set had some sweet looking pieces that I implemented into this project.

Corregidor Diorama wip 3

Corregidor Diorama wip 4

Using a ruler and a pen I drawn some makeshift panels and bolt holes on the ‘wall’ and prepared space for MDF pieces to be put into. I also shortened the MAS’s stairs and added elements of my own to make them look more industrial. Floor followed in a quick succession with the center being switched for a big MAS’s MDF panel. I also moundet the ‘wall’ using three screws. Initially I wanted to use magnets to keep the thing removable, but in the end I wanted for my miniatures to be safe. After that I’ve mounted three wall panels to be used as a base for glow globes. I also made some dents, marks and holes in the concrete panels of both wall and floor. Once I was done I’ve made a last check of display. Just before undercoating I had an idea to add some pipes and a vent along the walls to build even more industrial theme of the diorama. I used lollipop sticks and some leftovers to do that and proceeded to the undercoat.

Corregidor Diorama wip 5

Corregidor Diorama wip 6

Corregidor Diorama wip 7

Corregidor Diorama wip 8

Corregidor Diorama wip 10

Once it was dry I have covered the entire thing in two strong layers of Eshin Gray, then painted up all metal elements with a Tin Bitz, Boltgun Metal, Mithrill Silver layers and then washed entire thing with Devlan Mud two times. I slowly applied layer after layer starting with Scorched Brown, then following with Calthan Brown, Ryza Rust, Lugganath Orange and lastly Flayed One Flesh. This is the same colour scheme as the one used for my Concrete Bases. Actually both metal and concrete were painted the same way as in these tutorials:

TUTORIAL: CONCRETE BASES part 2: Painting

TUTORIAL: PAINTING ‘FIVE LAYERS’ METAL

Corregidor Diorama wip 11

Corregidor Diorama wip 12

Corregidor Diorama wip 13

Corregidor Diorama wip 14

Starting with Calthan Ryza Rust I’ve covered metal elements along with concrete panels, but before that I’ve made a short pause to airbrushed white-creeme lines and a Nomad graffitti. Ryza Rust, Lugganath Orange and Flayed One Flesh went over the lines to create an impression of them being damaged and eroded along with the concrete panels. Once Flayed One Flesh layer was done I lined/edged all the angles using the exact same piant. I also added grease/Rust streaks and oil stains here and there to bring the diorama closer to a life scene.

Corregidor Diorama wip 15

Corregidor Diorama wip 16

Corregidor Diorama wip 17

Corregidor Diorama wip 19

In the end I had to add a name, so I used a template created for me by Reycast Miniatures and airbrushed another graffitti onto the now black edges. Simple OSL was airbrushed and I mounted glow globes in the center points of each light. I also added three purple barrels to compensate glow globe’s green in preparation for red miniatures.

Corregidor Diorama wip 20

Corregidor Diorama wip 21

The final piece exceeded my expectations. Even my Girlfriend said it looks cool – and that’s rare! Damn – I count on this one to help me climb the ladder in the contest. If not – well, at least I have a fine piece to set up behind glass along with some less used Nomad Miniatures XD

Corregidor Diorama Done 2

Corregidor Diorama Done 3

Corregidor Diorama Done 4

PS:

27.6.2016: I actually won the painting contest XD Ultra happy about the fact! Here’s the entry:

Corregidor GO GO NOMADS Force on a Diorama Display

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Scarhandpainting

Colour Recipes: Warhammer 40,000 Imperial Fists

Here are some Colour Recipes for Warhammer 40,000 ‘Imperial Fists’ Space Marines from GALLERY: IMPERIAL FISTS lvl 3-4

Imperial Fists Hunter Stalker 2

YELLOW armour:

Corax White undercoat (GW),

White preshading*,

Gold Yellow 72.707 (Vallejo)*,

Soft Tone Ink (AP)*,

Matt Varnish (Vallejo)*,

Moldy Ochre (P3) edges,

Khaki 72.761 (Vallejo)*,

Earth 72.762 (Vallejo)*,

Dark Fleshtone 72.744 (Vallejo)* dirt,

*Airbrushed

IF pancerz WIP

BLUE OSL:

Light Sea Blue 71.089 (Vallejo)*,

White*,

Guilliman Blue Glaze (GW),

*Airbrushed,

BLUE Lens:

Teclis Blue (GW),

Hoeth Blue (GW),

Hoeth blue + White (GW),

White,

Guilliman Blue Glaze (GW),

White edges,

Imperial Fists Hunter Stalker 5

METAL:

TUTORIAL: PAINTING ‘FIVE LAYERS’ METAL

 

BLACK:

Black,

Frostbite (P3) edges,

White edges,

Khaki 72.761 (Vallejo)*,

Earth 72.762 (Vallejo)*,

*Airbrushed

Scarhandpainting

Tutorial: Heavy Snow Bases

There’s plenty of ‘how to make snow‘ tutorials in the web. Some are better than the others, still I do preffer to use my own technique when it comes to modelling snow. During many years of painting I tested this technique using a variety of materials, including baking soda, fine-grained white sand, salt and couple different modelling snow products. As it came out – Citadel Modelling Snow works best for me, producing a heavy, white coverage of snow. Yup – some techniques make snow look much more realistic, but just as Modelling Tufts – snow should compliment the miniature’s colour scheme and style. If you saw my Gallery then you know that I tend to pick rather colorful schemes for my works, thus my snow must look strong, heavy and white.  Below is the tutorial of making such a snow…

Snow 0

I USED:

  • Super Glue,
  • Citadel Modelling Snow,
  • White Paint,

Snow 1

1  I applied some Super Glue onto the previously painted surface...                                                       

Snow 3

2  I applied a quick fat layer of Citadel Modelling Snow and left it be for around fifteen seconds...

Snow 4

3  After Super Glue dried out, holding some snow in it, I shaked down all the remaining snow and applied another layer of Super Glue...

Snow 5

4  Then I applied another layer of snow - even bigger than the first one. This time I left it dry for around five minutes...

Snow 6

5  I shaked down all the remaining snow and used a soft brush to brush away all the little snow specks that were left on the base...

Snow 7

6  I used a large brush to apply some White Paint. I did not use drybrush technique, just some wet paint applied with a brush moved in one direction...

Snow 10

The final effect on the table looks like this:

Snow 8

I hope you like this effect and that this tutorial will work fine for you.

 

 

 

 

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Scarhandpainting

Hobby Advice: Preparing Resin Miniatures for Undercoat

A miniature made of resin requires a special kind of treatment before it can undergo the undercoating. Here’s my way of preparing such miniatures:

VIDEO TUTORIAL:

I USED:

  • Toothbrush,
  • Cup,
  • Alcohol,
  • Soap,
  • Strainer,
  • Running water,

Resin 2

PROCEDURE:

1  Dip the miniature in alcohol and brush it gently using a toothbrush,

2  Using soap and toothbrush clean up the miniature,

3  Rinse the miniature under running water,

!  You can use a strainer to protect smaller pieces from falling in to the sink hole,

Check out my youtube channel for more video Tutorials…
Scarhandpainting

Hobby Advice: Spray Undercoat

Every once in awhile I stumble upon a question of how to undercoat miniatures properly. Well – there are many techniques of undercoating miniatures and each individual hobbyist has his own favorite style.  I’ve figured that instead of writing all the know-how again and again – I can prepare a solid Tutorial of what I consider to be my favorite technique and just link it to all the hobbyists in need. Below you will find both a video version and extended picture version of Tutorial: Spray Undercoat – Eight Sides Technique.

TUTORIAL: SPRAY UNDERCOAT - VIDEO VERSION:

TUTORIAL: SPRAY UNDERCOAT - EXTENDED VERSION:

1  I start by preparing a setup for the miniatures. I immobilize the miniatures on a piece of wood using a protective duct tape. I place them so that I have access to the biggest part of their bodies both before and after turning them around.

undercoat 1

2  Now comes the time to shake the spray can a bit. Usually it takes between one to three minutes. I don't believe in all that 'ten minutes shakeup' bulsh... In my entire life I never done this for more than three minutes. So I just shake the can up and down in a quick succession. Once the ball inside it slides smoothly i proceed to the next step.

undercoat 2

!  WARNING - Some sprays are just like girls - usual shaking up and down can turn out to be fatal. For example - Army Painter Primers tend to get sandy and rought after shaking them too much. I always move the can in small circles so that the ball inside is sliding on the bottom.

undercoat 21

3  Time to start spraying! I spray the miniatures from a distance between 20-30cm (that's 8-12 inches), with small controlled bursts at an 45 degree angle. I start with spraying the miniatures from up and down, skipping right and left side for the time being. 

!  WHEN I'M DONE I WAIT FOR AROUND TEN MINUTES BEFORE PROCEEDING TO THE NEXT STEP.

undercoat 3

4  I repeat the action but this time I spray both the right and left side of the miniatures. Still I use the same distance of 20-30cm, same angle and small bursts.

!  WHEN I'M DONE I WAIT FOR AROUND TEN MINUTES BEFORE PROCEEDING TO THE NEXT STEP.

undercoat 4

5  I turn around the miniatures so that the unpainted surface is fully accessible.

undercoat 5

6  I repeat step '3' spraying the miniatures from the up and down side, skipping right and left side, following to previous indications (20-30cm, 45 degree, small bursts).

!  WHEN I'M DONE I WAIT FOR AROUND TEN MINUTES BEFORE PROCEEDING TO THE NEXT STEP.

undercoat 6

6  I repeat step '4' spraying the miniatures from the right and left side, following to previous indications (20-30cm, 45 degree, small bursts).

!  WHEN I'M DONE I WAIT FOR AROUND TEN MINUTES FOR THE MINIATURES TO DRY UP.

undercoat 7

That’s all – no magic or special tricks involved – just plain, easy technique. Some may consider eight layers to be too much, but I like to have my miniatures undercoated properly with no ‘shine’ visible and a solid layer of paint. Still if done properly – no detail will be dulled.

I hope you like this Tutorial – if so – please go and spread the word so that no newbe will have any problems with undercoating ever again 🙂

 

This Tutorial is my debut at youtube – you can see my channel here…

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