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Welcome to Painting KoW Armada Dwarf Fleet tutorial. Here I will present to you a Step-by-step of an easy and fast painting process for Mantic’s Armada Dwarfs as can be seen in Gallery: Armada Dwarfs.
Before we start, some notes:
Step one: Undercoat
I started with a thorough layer of Games Workshop Chaos Black spray. This is a standard procedure for me. Chaos Black spray is my go to choice when it comes to undercoat.
Step two: Armor
I painted entire ship with slightly thinned Games Workshop Warplock Bronze. Once Warplock Bronze dried I flatbrushed entire miniature with Army Painter Gun Metal followed by another flatbrush, this time Army Painter Shining Silver. Finally I painted few elements with P3 Blighted Gold.
Step three: Red
Next I added some color to the ship by painting roof and side balcony elements with Vallejo Burnt Red which was in turn highlighted with a single layer of Vallejo Flat Red.
Step four: Wash
I richly applied Army Painter Strong Tone Ink onto entire miniature. The paint might be glossy depending on particular pot you got. I recommend adding just a bit of Matt Varnish before use.
Step five: Highlights
With wash dried out nicely I applied a layer of Vallejo Flat Red in most exposed red areas. I then followed with edge highlights and few lines/dots of Games Workshop Lugganath Orange. I then done the same for gold except I used GW Auric Armour Gold. For silver I went back to Army Painter Shining Silver, highlighting few exposed spots and edges.
Step six: Front slots
I decided to add additional touch to the front of the ship, by painting two frontal slots blue. I done this by applying a layer of thinned GW Fenrisian Grey and then a wash of GW Contrast Ultramarines Blue.
Step seven: Basing
In simple terms I followed my own tutorial for Armada Basing, that you may find HERE, except I used standard hdf bases painted with a single layer of Vallejo UK Mediteranean Blue, followed by standard AK Interactive Pacific Blue, AK Interactive Water Effect and AK Interactive Water Foam textures.
I hope you find this tutorial interesting. Be sure to let me know your thoughts in the comments below or via Facebook. I would also appreciate if you considered sharing this content to any groups or forums, where it might help someone paint their miniatures. Scarhandpainting is not just about professional miniatures painting service. I do my best to provide interesting tutorials and share my experience with other hobbyists.
Welcome to Painting Ghosts tutorial. Here I will present to you a Step-by-step of fast and easy painting Ghosts process.
Before we start, some notes:
Step one: Undercoat
I started with an airbrushed layer of Black.
Step two: Vallejo Turquoise, airbrushed
I airbrushed thinned Vallejo Turquoise all over the miniatures.
Insert: Additional detail
At that point I have painted all the none-ghost detail, following these two recipes: Painting Metal , Painting Bases. This tutorial is about painting ghostly elements so I leave this step to you. I have painted these elements now to build up ghostly light on top of them alongside layers to come next.
Step three: Vallejo Duck Egg Green, airbrushed
Next I airbrushed Vallejo Duck Egg Green air over ghostly elements, focusing on the most exposed areas. I have thinned this paint just a bit to mitigate speckling.
Step four: Vallejo Light Livery Green, airbrushed
I then airbrushed Vallejo Light Livery Green air over previous layer.
Step four: Vallejo Off White, highlights
I manually painted edge highlights with Vallejo Off White.
Step five: Vallejo Light Livery Green, juice up
I manually blended highly thinned Vallejo Light Livery Green air on top of previous highlights.
Step six: Vallejo Off White, highlights
I manually painted edge highlights with Vallejo Off White, but this time contained to dots and points of focus.
Step seven: Vallejo Light Livery Green, blend
I airbrushed thinned Vallejo Light Livery Green air all over the miniatures, after which I sealed it with Vallejo Polyurethane Matt Varnish and painted the base’s edge black, as it should be. Added few Birch Tree seeds as a final touch.
Note from the author: I hope you enjoyed this article. Be sure to let me know what you think in the comments or at my facebook. If you ever use the tutorial – please tag me at facebook or send pics to my e-mail, so I can enjoy your work 😉
Welcome to Painting Black Marbe tutorial. Here I will take you on a Step-by-step trip through the process of painting black marble.
Before we start, some notes:
Step one: Undercoat
I started with an airbrushed layer of White.
Step two: Base texture
For this step I used a Steel Wool stencil prepared in the previous Tutorial: Painting Marble. I simply took few pieces of steel wool, taped them together and used them as a stencil. I then airbrushed black paint through the stencil. Furthermore in some places I have removed black paint with a wet toothpick to create strong white lines.
Step three: Texture
Next I added a layer of texture by manually applied stains of Vallejo Pale Grey Wash. After waiting half a minute I removed the excess of the paint with a paper towel.
Step four: More texture
I then applied stains of Vallejo Air White, but this time removed the excess of the paint with slightly pressured water. You can simply airbrush water with around 0,5 bar pressure if you don’t have a sprinkler.
Step five: Sealing the colour
To seal the colour I applied an even, smooth layer of Army Painter Dark Tone Ink.
Step five: Gloss
Finally I applied two layers of airbrushed Gloss Varnish. This resulted in a nice polished glossy look but also added that 3d look to different layers.
Here’s how the finished base looks like.
This bonus method is much simpler and I think it had a lot of potential, still I stumbled upon it by accident just fed ways ago and hadn’t had time to test it thoroughly. Here’s basics:
Done! Seems mind blowing? Surely is. Have I done this right? Totally no 😛 White spots are too large, but as mentioned – there’s potential in the method and at some point I will find a way to make it work.
Note from the author: I hope you enjoyed this article. Be sure to let me know what you think in the comments or at my facebook. If you ever use the tutorial – please tag me at facebook or send pics through Line app to scarhandpainting, so I can enjoy your work 😉
Welcome to Painting Marbe tutorial. Here I will take you on a Step-by-step trip through the process of painting marble the same way as seen at: Gallery: Horus Lupercal
Before we start, some notes:
Step one: Undercoat
I started with a solid layer of Vallejo German Red Brown. Any similar colour would do.
Step two: Base texture
For this step I used a life hack. I took few pieces of steel wool, taped them together and used them as a stencil. I then airbrushed pure white paint through the stencil and onto the bases.
Step three: Texture
Next I applied more layers of marble texture. This time I manually applied irregular stains of Army Painter Strong Tone Ink, waited half a minute then removed the paint with a paper towel. I then repeated the process once again applying and then removing excess Strong Tone Ink.
Step four: Sealing the colour
I then painted entire base with Army Painter Soft Tone Ink thinned with Games Workshop Lahmian Medium. I tried to keep the layer smooth and even.
Step five: Gloss
Finally I applied two layers of airbrushed Gloss Varnish. This resulted in a nice polished glossy look. Depending on the effect you aim for Gloss Varnish can be switched with either Satin ot pure Matt.
Here’s how the finished base looks like.
Note from the author: This tutorial is by far the most popular article on Scarhandpainting.com. It was first published in early 2016 and then refurbished exactly four years later. I hope you enjoy this new look and that the tutorial is now much easier to follow. Comments and Critique are welcome.
Welcome to Painting Daemonic Purple Skin tutorial. Here I will take you on a Step-by-step trip through the process of painting purple skin the same way as seen at: Gallery: Confrontation Mid-Nor
Before we start, some notes:
* This one requires basics of loaded brush technique.
* For the purpose of this tutorial I used a Confrontation Mid-Nor miniature that has a large detail and is better to show the steps on.
* As usual, please take note that what works for me might not necessarily work for you.
Ready to do this? I assume your miniature is already painted black (or in my case first layers of “Infinity Black“), so buckle up and let’s go!
* Start with a solid layer of Warpfiend Grey (GW). The layer does not have to be perfectly smooth. The goal is to make sure all deep areas are filled with paint. I tend to thin down the paint with a bit of water to fasten this step.
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* Time for a little bit of magic trickery. Wash with a mix of Purple Tone Ink (AP) 2:1:1 Strong Tone Ink (AP), Lahmian Medium (GW).
* Back to Slaanesh Grey (GW). Here's where loaded brush becomes handy. Repaint all the exterior areas with Slaanesh Grey. Might be a bit thinned, the paint has enough pigment to do the job.
* Now same thing, but with a mix of Slaanesh Grey (GW) with just a bit of Pale Flesh (Val). This time though focus in edges and middle points of larger areas.
…and that’s it. You can further highlight edges and important points adding more Pale Flesh (Val) to the mix. The end result looks like this:
Welcome to Painting Infinity Daofei Camo tutorial. Here I will take you on a Step-by-step trip through the process of painting Daofei Camo the same way as seen at: Gallery: Yu-Jing.
Before we start, some notes:
* This one requires no Airbrush.
* For better visibility there are two different sizes of the pattern.
* What works for me might not necessarily work for you.
* Start by applying a smooth layer of P3 Bastion Grey.
* Create basic pattern, applying Pale Wych Flesh spots leaving similar sized gaps inbetween .
* Next apply Panzer Dark Grey spots between Pale Wych Flesh, so that every new spot touches at least one from the previous layer.
* Follow up with a third layer of pattern, using Interior Green and following the same rules. Be sure to leave some spots of Bastion Grey visible.
* Lastly add tiny spots of Panzer Dark Grey on top of Pale Wych Flesh pattern. Some might touch the edges.
That’s it, you have painted the pattern. Congrats! Be sure to visit Infinity Yu-Jing gallery for further inspiration if need be 😉
Welcome to Painting “Guijia” tutorial. Here I will take you on a Step-by-step trip through almost entire process of painting Infinity the Game “Guijia” Special Project.
Before we start, some notes:
* This one requires an Airbrush.
* Paints are to be properly thinned before airbrush application.
* As usual, please take note that what works for me might not necessarily work for you.
Allright! Undercoat the miniature with black, check your gear and let’s do this!
* Start with a solid layer of airbrushed Val. Orange Brown. I applied mine in three delicate, overlaping layers. I went around the miniature, with top and bottom, focusing on Armor Plates areas.
* Next, airbrush Val. Scrofulous Brown. Mostly from the top and up to 45* degree, focusing on the most exposed areas. You can start building transitions to previous layer avoiding shadowed areas.
* I forgot to take a picture of this layer. That's on me. Fortunatelly the result can be seen on the next picture. The layer is a mix of Val. Scrofulous Brown and Val. Off White, applied from top onto the center of all exposed areas.
* Next, outline all the edges with Val. Ice Yellow
* Lastly, underline armor plates with Army Painter Soft Tone Ink. I also used strongly dilluted Soft Tone to apply some more shadow in certain 'over the edge' areas.
* This is the most difficult part of the process. Mix Val. Black (air) 1:5 with Val. Panzer Dark Grey (air) and apply it to everything, that is not external armour plates and blade. The difficult part is to not mess up all these sexy Orange-to-Yellow armour plates. If you do, you can try out Erasing Bloopers following one of my tutorials, still the airbrushed nature of the layer will make it extremely difficult.
* Next apply a watered down GW Fenrisian Grey over black areas. It is important not to fill any recesses. You can apply more than one thin layer, overlaping each other and even leave some irregularities - this will work to the overall paint job's advantage.
* Next, higlight edges with GW Pale Wych Flesh. This time no thinning down the paint. You can imitate some scratches, reflexions etc.
* Now wash it all with a thinned down Army Painter Dark Tone Ink. Once again be extra carefuul not to paint over finished armour plates.
* Now it's time to make it POP! Using GW Pale Wych Flesh and Val. Off White, highlight the edges and create some points of focus, scratches, reflections etc.
* Start by masking the Guijia's leg. I used a piece of foil and masking tape to cover areas that I didn;t wanted to get dirty. Then manually applu a layer of Val. Prussian Blue, avoiding areas of Black Mesh.
* Next airbrush a layer of Light Sea Blue, focusing on the most exposed areas of armour.
* Next, airbrush a mix of Val. Light Sea Blue with a bit of Val. White focusing on middle areas, creating a transition from previous layer.
* Next highlight the edges with GW Pale Wych Flesh.
* To seal Blue, wash it with thinned down GW Guilliman Blue Glaze. You can see that I have also painted some battle damage. I did it using Val. Cavalry Brown, underlined with Val. Off White.
I leave adding Black Under Armour and additional details to you. Now to the Sword… To be honest, because of strong light, pictures taken during this one’s painting process did not captured how the sword looked like and I really don’t like how they turned out. That being said – I will still show you the Sword and name the paints used, but instead of a Step-by-step tutorial, let’s just call it a BONUS.
List of paints:
Val. Warlord Purple,
Val. Off white,
GW. Pale Wych Flesh,
AP. Purple Tone Ink,
I leave the base and additional detail to you. Congratulations, you have painted a Guijia 🙂
Was this tutorial helpful? Did you enjoyed it? Leave me a comment 😉
I hope you find this tutorial interesting. Be sure to let me know your thoughts in the comments below or via Facebook or Instagram. I would also appreciate if you considered sharing this content with your friends, who might find it useful. Finally if you are looking for a professional miniatures painting service be sure to contact me with this contact form. I always reply within 24 hours, after which please check out your spam folder.
Painting skin – nightmare for some, EZ for others. Back in the days I’ve struggled with a proper skin tone, my miniatures turning out too dark, or skin being overall flat and uninterresting. Practicing ‘Five Layers Technique‘ for many years, led me to some realisations and now I am able to present to you my ultimate way of basic skin painting.
* Regular Brush,
* Bugmans Glow (GW),
* Dwarf Flesh (GW),
* Flesh (Val AIR),
* Strong Tone Ink (AP),
* Soft Tone Ink (AP),
* Pale Flesh (Val),
! You can achieve similar results using different paints and avoiding mixes, as long as you follow Five Layers Technique basics. For example Bugmans Glow (GW) might be switched for Tanned Flesh (AP) or Tan (Vallejo).
! You can start by applying first layer on any surface. This method does not require any special preparation, like re-painting surface to primer black etc.
1 I started by applying an underlayer of Bugmans Glow paint over any surface destined to become skin. This layer might be a bit messy and is not meant to be smooth, only to cover entire surface. For this particular layer I encourage thinning the paint a bit to help it flow into recesses.
2 Next I applied a main layer of Dwarf Flesh. This time I tried to keep paint from flowing into recesses and made sure that it will cover all big flat areas.
3 I then applied a layer made of a 1:1 mix of Dwarf Flesh and Flesh over all raised areas. This is suposed to be the first highligh and provides a difference in skin tones over the model. Don't worry if some piant flows into recesses, just try to avoid covering everything with it.
4 Here came the flood of wash. I applied a 1:1 mix of Army Painter's Strong Tone Ink with Soft Tone Ink. As usual I didn't bother to be subtle about it.
5 Once dried, I highlighted skin with a 1:1 mix of Elf Skintone and Pale Flesh. This usually is the final highlight and is meant to POP the skin.
! If I was to enchance skin a bit and move forward from this point, I would add points of focus with lines and dots of Pale Flesh. Some deeper spots can also be in-lined with Flesh Tone or some brown-ish wash to build contrast but that's for another article.
How about I show you a technique to paint brown military coats like a pro in a way so simple that it’ll make you wander why haven’t you painted like that before? Below is a simple Step-by-step tutorial on how to achieve awesome tattered and used up leather brown coat effect in just few simple steps.
First some home brewed theory.
Stippling: A technique of creating texture out of dozens of tiny dots of paint. Easiest way to achieve this is to use a Stippling Brush (round head, tip cut off – flat surface instead, resilient hair).
Blending: A technique of gently intermingling two or more colors to create a gradual transition or to soften lines. Below I will demonstrate a rather crude version of it.
* Stippling Brush (GW),
* Regular Brush,
* Olive Drab (Vallejo AIR),
* Pallid Wych Flesh (GW),
* Strong Tone Ink (AP),
1 You can start painting this on any dark surface, but for good result I recommend to prepare the surface, by following steps 1 to 3 of Painting 'Infinity' Black Tutorial. This will transition into a complex and interresting surface to work on. On a bright side neither these nor following layers require precision and are really fast to paint.
TUTORIAL: PAINTING ‘INFINITY’ BLACK
2 Time to stipple. I used a Stippling brush and Pallid Wych Flesh paint. I left the excess paint on the palette and randomly applied some dots onto the coat.
3 Next I mixed Olive Drab 1:1 with Strong Tone Ink and applied it all over the coat. This is the crude version of blending I mentioned earlier. It has not much to do with actual blending technique, except it changes the color and actually 'blends'.
4 Wash comes last. I applied a strong, wet layer of Strong Tone Ink all over the coat. Once dry - paint job is done.
! This might be the end to it, but if you preffer to take your paint job to a higher level you can for example 'edge' the coat with a brighter brown/leathery colour. From now on you have a great looking base to add detail to and it was achieved in no time.
There’s probably as many recipes for painting black as there are painters all over the globe. On top of that there are many different techniques to choose from. Painting a lot of detailed Infinity the Game miniatures, I have found one that works best for me. Today I would like to present to you a ‘Five Layers Technique‘ based color scheme that I myself use.
First of all some home brewed theory. Just like most colors – Black looks great when highlighted. Black surfaces make good impression, when we are able to see different overlapping layers and how color works with natural curves and detail. For this purpose I always use grey to highlight and texturize black. This leads to black effectively turning grey in the end, so I usually wash it with black ink/wash to deepen the ‘blackness’ in recesses and darken flat surfaces. That in turn lessens the highlights and flattens the entire impression. Here’s where I figured to follow wash with an edge of white’ish color to produce strong contrast and ‘pop’ the blackness.
* Chaos Black Undercoat (GW),
* Skavenblight Dinge (GW),
* Fenrisian Grey (GW),
* Pallid Wych Flesh (GW),
* Dark Tone Ink (AP),
! Important note: For this technique you don't need to re-paint entire surface with pure black. I use it on different, mixed colours - usually being previously airbrushed all over the miniature.
1 First I covered the entire target surface with Skavenblight Dinge. To fasten and ease the process I added a bit of watter to the paint. No need to cover everything with a strong layer - just smoother what's undeneath it with a nice dark grey.
2 Then I made some random strokes with Fenrisian Grey. Once again I diluted the paint a bit, to make it more transparent. This layer provides texture and some irregularities to all the flat surfaces.
3 I then edged with Pallid Wych Flesh. I tend to edge only the natural sharp edges and some easy accessible spots. the most important are the ones on top of the surface I paint. Added some random scratches here and there too.
4 I then washed the entire thing black with AP's Dark tone Ink. (no picture)
5 Finally I edged once again with Pallid Wych Flesh. Added some more scratches. Job done.
That is the entire secret behind my Painting ‘Infinity’ Black technique. Fast and easy. Sure, no perfectly smooth transitions, no none metallic metal, but still a very rewarding result. With a bit of imagination and practice – this might be used as a perfect starting point for a much more complicated paint job. Hope it works for you.
