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Yearly Archives:2018

Colour Recipes: Shadespire Stormsire’s Cursebreakers

Here are some Colour Recipes for Haqqislam from Gallery: Shadespire Stormsire’s Cursebreakers. Please take note that this is a simple colour scheme, not covering multiple overlapping layers and blends in between, that lead to the final product. It is supposed to be used as guideline not a step-by-step.

TURQUISE clothes:

Coal Black (P3), *

Turquise (Val), *

Mix Turquise (Val) 2:1 White, *

Arcane Blue (P3), l&p

METAL armour:

See: Tutorial: Painting “Five Layers” Metal

Warplock Bronze (GW),

Gun Metal (AP), flbr

Shining Metal (AP), flbr

Strong Tone Ink (AP),

Shining Metal (AP), l&p

GREEN light:

Duck Egg Green (Val),*

Light Livery Green (Val),

Waywatcher Green (GW),

Off White (Val), l&p

Grey handles:

Panzer Dark Grey (Val),

Fenrisian Grey (GW),

Dark Tone Ink (AP),

Off White (Val), l&p

BASES:

Medium Sea Grey (Val), *

Light Grey (Val)*,

Pale Grey (Val),*

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),

Off White (Val), l&p

Dirt (Val), bl

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP), bl

l&p – lines and points,

p – points,

bl – blend,

gl – glaze,

drbr – drybrush,

flbr – flatbrush,

lobr – loaded brush,

stpl – stippling,

*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)


Nazroth

Colour Recipes: Warhammer 40,000 Tau Elysian Desert

Here are some Colour Recipes for Haqqislam from Gallery: Tau XV95 Ghostkeel. Please take note that this is a simple colour scheme, not covering multiple overlapping layers and blends in between, that lead to the final product. It is supposed to be used as guideline not a step-by-step.

CAMO pattern:

Castellan Green (GW),*

[Painting tape masking]

Elysian Green (GW)*

HEX pattern:

Mix Sand Yellow (Val 1) 4:1 Bonewhite (Val a),*

INNER mesh:

Earth (Val a), *

Sand Yellow (Val a), *

European Dust (Val),

Flayed One Flesh (GW), l&p

Light Brown (Val a), *

BLUE LIGHT:

Light Sea Blue (Val a), *

White (Val a), *

White, l&p

Guilliman Blue GW), glaze

Gloss Varnish,

CACTUS:

Camo Green (GW), *

Camo Green (GW), fltbr

Mix Camo Green (GW) 2:1 Pale Wych Flesh (GW), fltbr

CACTUS Blossom:

Warlord Purple (Val),

Squid Pink (Val), fltbr

l&p – lines and points,

p – points,

bl – blend,

gl – glaze,

drbr – drybrush,

flbr – flatbrush,

lobr – loaded brush,

stpl – stippling,

*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)

Nazroth

Review: Brush Clash Winsor & Newton vs Games Workshop

Hope you’re ready for another round of Brush Clash! I feel like I’ve misjudged Winsor & Newton Series 7 the last time, thus I have decided to throw it into the paint stained arena once more, this time against Games Workshop’s Artificer Layer!

For the purpose of this clash I used a highly detailed Avatar of Sokar metal miniature from Reaper Miniatures. The Avatar was painted almost exclusively using both brushes with an exception of couple base layers.

Throughout the test both the Winsor & Newtor Series 7 ‘0’ and Games Workshop Artificer Layer ‘XS’ performed perfectly. Tips held their shape, hair kept being nicely springy, not being too firm at the middle.

Winsor & Newtor Series 7 ‘0’ is the cheaper of the pair. The price difference is about 25%. Buying this brush you can be sure of Winsor & Newton’s top quality, further assured by this company flawless reputation.

Games Workshop Artificer Layer ‘XS’ seem to hold up to W&N’s Series 7. Even though I distrust Games Workshop I fully recommend this brush to you. The quality is on par with W&N and both brushes seem to be made with same hair. What makes Artificer Layer special is the black Ferrule, that allows for easier identification when digging through a cup full of brushes in search of that important ‘0’. For me this feature is a life changer.

Aside of the brand new Brush Clash pair, I’ve been using another pair for the last year. Both brands performed perfectly, whereas Tamiya, Davinci, Kolibri and many other brushes got annihilated due to sheer number of projects I was involved in. We’re talking hundreds of miniatures that both GW Artificer Layer ‘XS’ and W&N Series 7 ‘0’ got through more or less unscathed. I grew attached to both brushes with just a slight incline towards Artificer Layer, due to it’s black Ferrule. That’s why I keep the more important XS of the GW brand, while W&N covers all the other sizes.

All that being said, there’s just no way for me to judge which of these fine brushes is superior when it comes to performance. Both have fought well and I hold them in high regard. The combined might of these two brushes can take on any miniature!

Let me know which of these two you find more appealing!

Nazroth

BLU TACK – Your best friend…

Brushes, paints, even entire hobby desks – they come and go. It doesn’t matter how much I like particular pot of paint or a hobby tool. At some point everything gets old and I simply got used to part ways with almost every hobby related item. There has ever been just one friend that stick and grew alongside me throughout the years. I dedicate this article to my fav support teammate. Let’s talk Blu Tack!

Blu Tack is an adhesive, reusable putty-like mass. The most known “original” comes by that name, but you can find different variations of the stuff all over the internet and not all come in traditional blue. It can be used to attach lightweight objects to any dry surfaces, but also as a painting tool.

He Protec

Spilled paint, toothpicks all over the place, airbrush on the floor in a pool of spilled exhaust waste… not for me. While I drown in righteous fury, punishing miniatures with relentless brush strokes, my friend Blu Tac holds the objective – keeping the surroundings in one piece. Literally…

but He Also Attac

Once the creative fury abates, allowing me to paint with sniper-like calm, using both precision and cunning – Blu Tack takes the fight to the front line, lending me his strength by pinning targets in place and covering important areas…

Plus He Grows with You

Most importantly Blu Tack is like a mythological hero. It doesn’t die, it doesn’t get old. It builds mass with every new batch added to the body. It is a friend that throughout our painting adventure never let me down and always had my back. I know I can count on it, no matter what new challenges we will face next! Blu Tack is love. Blu Tack is god!

Do you know and use Blu Tack in your hobbying, or did you just learned of it through this article? Lemme know in the comments or at Facebook! Cheers!

Nazroth

“Infinity Cars” Special Project

IN SEARCH OF PERFECTION:

The idea of introducing cars to my Infinity gaming board is one to haunt me for quite some time now. Many times I found myself in a toy store, standing before a toy car shelf and trying to pick a right car to fit Infinity the Game scale and sci-fi theme. Easy to say that all my efforts were futile, thus I postponed the idea time and time again, slowly loosing hope. This state of things changed drastically just few days ago…
I was visiting the post office, when all of a sudden I saw it! The postal worker was playing with an ideal toy car. Wait!? She wasn’t playing at all! That was a PC Mouse! Imagine my shock, when that realization struck me. Shaped like a car, with lights glowing bright, the PC Mouse was just perfect!

FAST & FURIOUS:

Two days later I was in possession of half a dozen PC Mouse cars. This was where “Infinity Cars” Special Project actually started. After a good look at the cars features I figured that apart of awesome futuristic design, the cars had translucent light covers, black mirrored glass, chrom elements plus some of them had battery powered interior glowing lights. These were key features I wanted to transfer onto final form. I started dismantling the cars to pieces…

It didn’t took long, as parts came off pretty easily. Depending on a car type there were either one or two screws that needed handling, other than that I only needed to pull parts gently for them to come apart.

INFINITY ASSEMBLY LINE:

Every piece being separated, I prepared everything for a proper paint job. I didn’t modify the cars too much. Removed “scroll buttons” and glued in some Warhammer 40k bitz to add Sci-fi looks instead, glued left and right buttons firm, removed “the insides” of cable mouses. Didn’t even bother to strip the paint.

Afterwards the cars got undercoated and soon after I applied a paint job with bright, juicy colours. I decided to keep the paint job simple, with no decals, freehands and other stuff that could have spoiled the perfect shape of these futuristic cars bodies. These are scenery pieces after all, too much is not always same as better.

LET'S ROCK AND...RIDE!:

The “Infinity Cars” are nowe done and I cannot wait to use them in the upcoming games of Infinity. I do hope you like the idea of using PC Mouse as an Infinity scenery piece. If you want to grab your own, just look for “PC Mouse Car” at E-bay or google. In the meantime I invite you tocheck out the “Infinity Cars” Gallery… and tell me what you think in the comments below 😉

Cheers!

Nazroth

Colour Recipes: Infinity Haqqislam Red Veil

Here are some Colour Recipes for Haqqislam from Gallery: Infinity Operation Red Veil. Please take note that this is a simple colour scheme, not covering multiple overlapping layers and blends in between, that lead to the final product. It is supposed to be used as guideline not a step-by-step.

MILITARY armour:

Interior Green (Val a),*

Mix Interior Green (Val a) 2:1 Desert Yellow (Val a),*

Mix Interior Green (Val a) 2:1:1 Desert Yellow (Val a), Bonewhite (Val a),*

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),

Flayed One Flesh (GW), l&p

Off White (Val), l&p

CREEME leather armour:

Mix Olive Drab (Val a) 1:1:1:1 Dark Fleshtone (Val a), Strong Tone Ink (AP), Soft Tone Ink (AP),

Bonewhite (Val a),

Flayed One Flesh (GW), l&p

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),

Pale Wych Flesh (GW), l&p

BLACK/GREY outfits & weapons:

Black Undercoat, Mix Black 1:X Panzer DK Grey (Val),

Panzer DK Grey (Val),

Fenrisian Grey (GW),

Pallid Wych Flesh (GW), l&p

Dark Tone Ink (AP)

Fenrisian Grey (GW), blend

Pallid Wych Flesh (GW), l&p

Off White (Val), p

MARTIAN bases:

Cavalry Brown (Val), *

Martian Ironcrust (GW) & Martian Ironearth (GW), texture

Fire Dragon Bright (GW), flbr

l&p – lines and points,

p – points,

bl – blend,

gl – glaze,

drbr – drybrush,

flbr – flatbrush,

lobr – loaded brush,

stpl – stippling,

*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)

Nazroth

Colour Recipes: Infinity Yu-Jing IS

Here are some Colour Recipes for Yu-Jing from Gallery: Infinity Yu-Jing lvl 5. Please take note that this is a simple colour scheme, not covering multiple overlapping layers and blends in between, that lead to the final product. It is supposed to be used as guideline not a step-by-step.

YELLOW armour:

Orange Brown (Val), *

Scrofulous Brown (Val), *(horizontal)

Mix Scrofulouus Brown (Val) 4:1 Off White (Val), *

Ice Yellow (Val), l&p

Light Tone Ink (AP), inner lining

BLACK/GREY outfits & weapons:

Black Undercoat, Mix Black 1:X Panzer DK Grey (Val),

Panzer DK Grey (Val),

Fenrisian Grey (GW),

Pallid Wych Flesh (GW), l&p

Dark Tone Ink (AP)

Fenrisian Grey (GW), blend

Pallid Wych Flesh (GW), l&p

Off White (Val), p

TURQUOISE clothes:

Coal Black (P3),

Scurvy Green (Val),

Mix Scurvy Green (Val) 3:2 Hydra Turquoise (AP), lobr

Hydra Turquoise (AP),

Arcane Blue (P3), l&p

Coelia Greenshade (GW),

Arcane Blue (P3), l&p

SKIN:

Carne Marron Tan (Val),

Dwarf Skin (Val a),

Dwarf Skin (Val) + Pale Flesh (Val a),

Pale Flesh (Val a), l&p

Pale Flesh (Val),

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP), inner lining

Pale Flesh (Val),

l&p – lines and points,

p – points,

bl – blend,

gl – glaze,

drbr – drybrush,

flbr – flatbrush,

lobr – loaded brush,

stpl – stippling,

*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)

Nazroth

Colour Recipes: Infinity Aleph S.S.S.

Here are some Colour Recipes for Aleph from Gallery: Infinity Aleph S.S.S. lvl 4. Please take note that this is a simple colour scheme, not covering multiple overlapping layers and blends in between, that lead to the final product. It is supposed to be used as guideline not a step-by-step.

BLACK/GREY armour & weapons:

Black Undercoat,

Panzer Dark Grey (Val),*

Fenrisian Grey (GW), l&p

Pallid Wych Flesh (GW), l&p

Dark Tone Ink (AP),

Pallid Wych Flesh (GW), l&p

PURPLE skin:

Warpfiend Grey (GW),

Slaanesh Grey (GW),

Mix Purple Tone Ink (AP) 2:1:1 Strong Tone Ink (AP), Medium,

Slaanesh Grey (GW), l&p

Mix Slaanesh Grey (GW) 1:1 Pale Wych Flesh (GW), l&p

CREAM armour:

Mix Wolf Grey (Val) 1:1 Fenrisian Grey (GW),

Ghost Grey (Val),

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1:1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP), Flow Improover, Medium,

Off White (Val), l&p

PURPLE armour:

Hexen Lichen (Val),

Genestealer Purple (GW), flbr

Dechala Lilac (GW), l&p

Purple Tone Ink (AP),

Dechala Lilac (GW), l&p

Pale Wych Flesh (GW), l&p

l&p – lines and points,

p – points,

bl – blend,

gl – glaze,

drbr – drybrush,

flbr – flatbrush,

stpl – stippling,

*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)

Nazroth

Tutorial: Painting Jade Bases

Welcome to Painting Jade Bases tutorial. Here I will take you on a Step-by-step trip through the process of painting jade Sci-Fi bases the same way as seen at: Gallery: Aleph S.S.S.

Before we start, some notes:

* This one requires an Airbrush.
* What works for me might not necessarily work for you.
* I used Zen Terrain “Futura” base toppers.

I used:

  • Coal Black (P3),
  • Panzer Dark Grey (Val, air),
  • Turquoise (Val),
  • Light Livery Green (Val, air),
  • Pale Wych Flesh (GW),
  • Waywatcher Green (GW),

Let’s begin!

*  I started by airbrushing a thick layer of Vallejo Panzer Dark Grey.

*  I followed with a layer of P3 Coal Black, mixed with Flow Improover.

*  Next I applied a layers of Vallejo Turquoise, mixed with Flow Improover, but this time made sure to leave some spots of previous layer visible.

*  Using a regular brush I then highlighted all the edges with Vallejo Turquoise.

*  Next I partially higlighted the edges with Games Workshop Pale Wych Flesh.

*  Back to airbruush, I applied a layer of Vallejo Light Livery Green on top of all lower parts of the base.

*  I then washed all recess spots with Games Workshop Waywatcher Green, being careful not to leave stain outside the lower parts of the base.

*  Finally I painted side edges black. Job done.

That’s all! If you followd this tutorial and painted your own bases this way, be sure to leave a comment and drop me some pics via Facebook 😉

Cheers!

Nazroth

Review: Zen Terrain Base Toppers

Zen Terrain, a company from Poland, known for laser cut scenery and accessories. Zen Terrain’s offer is not vast but it certainly is very well thought through with many advanced and interesting designs. I first met with Zen Terrain back in 2014, when I started collecting Infinity the Game. What drove me to Zen Terrain’s Sci-Fi range was a certain elegant theme that all the products share. Among scenery and gaming accessories, there’s a certain group of items that I had an opportunity to work with, the Base Toppers, known also as ‘Base Overlays’. Below you will find my take on them.

INTRODUCTION

They come in all different types, thickness and even made out of different material. Zen Terrain base toppers offer consists of a wide variety of products including industrial, oriental , cybernetic, technical patterns and more. Below is just a sample. To fully grasp what Zen has to offer visit Bases section of Zen Terrain site.

QUALITY

I will start by admitting the truth: I am a quality freak, when it comes to miniatures, accessories, scenery, literally everything miniatures related. I have mentioned this before so for those of you who read my articles this shouldn’t be a surprise. That being said, I have compared Zen Terrain base toppers quality to products from couple other companies (EU and US based) and as far as hard paper/HDF/MDF goes Zen Terrain range is top tier quality. Zen definitely does not save on material, nor laser cutting time. Material is strong, does not stratify, is precisely cut.

As a side note: Zen also provides quality check and packs this stuff very well for transportation. No missing parts and/or damage during shipment ever occurred when I received my orders.

VISUALS

This one is off course super bias dictated. Zen Terrain aesthetics might or might not work for you. Personally I really like some of Zen’s base toppers a lot. I do strongly ‘feel’ aesthetics of some of them. Going through entire range I do not find any type, that I feel like “naah, I don’t want to work with these as a painter” about.

FUNCTIONALITY

Another important aspect I always look for is functionality. As a full time painter I try to make my life easier and prefer to avoid products that does not go well with that philosophy. Working with Zen Terrain toppers have some merits. For instance they do not require any preparation. Just glue them on top the bases and you’re ready to go. (They fit the bases perfectly by the way, unlike some other worse quality toppers I worked with).

One thing that I find to be a little inconvenience comes from material itself. Where metal, plastic and resin are rather easy to drill, I find hard paper and HDF/MDF to distort around the drill hole. This is not a game changer, just requires a bit more time and some tricks to ‘repair’ afterwards. Figured thing like this is worth a mention if you’re considering laser cut toppers.

Zen Terrain base toppers work very well with paint. Have went through more than 200 of them, from among couple different types, in recent years. Never encountered any uncommon behavior or issues.

PRICE

The final aspect: Price. Pricing looks similar to other companies. For 5 25mm base toppers you will pay about 3,3€ so a bit less than Customeeple 3,95€, but also a bit more than Micro Art’s 2,56€ (these come in packs of 12 for 6,15€ only). Comparing to products from other companies (not only Sci-Fi themed) I would say Zen has a mid-tier price range. Personally I find this price to be well balanced with quality.

SUMMARY 10/10

To wrap things up, if you have no experience with Zen Terrain’s base toppers and consider using toppers in the future, I totally recommend going for Zen’s stuff. The range is there, full of interesting designs. Quality is top, price is good. They are easy to work with and look really nice once properly painted. When it comes to MDF/HDF/hard paper toppers, taking into account material properties I would give Zen Terrain’s stuff 9,5/10 rounding up to 10/10 and that’s on a scale where 10 is awesome, 8 is good, 6 is ok, 5 is mediocre, 3 is bad and I don’t want to even mention 1. I try to not be biased on this, even tho I know the man behind Zen Terrain personally. Allow me to finish up with this line: I seriously enjoy working with Zen Terrain base toppers and how they turn out, every time.

Where to purchase? Zen Terrain has it’s official webstore. I invite you to take a peek.

Nazroth