fbpx
  • contact@scarhandpainting.com

Monthly Archives:October 2017

Colour Recipes: Horus Heresy Mechanicum Zhao Arkhad

Here are some Colour Recipes for Horus Heresy Mechanicum from Gallery: Forge World Zhao Arkhad. Please take note that this is a simple colour scheme, not covering multiple overlapping layers and blends in between, that lead to the final product. It is supposed to be used as guideline not a step-by-step.

BRONZE armor:

Black Undercoat,

Mix Rust (val a) 1:1 Metallic Black (val a), *

Bright Bronze (val a), * zenithal

Shining Silver (ap), flbr

Strong Tone Ink (ap), wash / *

Shining Silver (ap), l&p

Soft Tone Ink (ap), wash dedicated

… GREEN metallic:

Jade Green (val), bl

TURQUOISE clothes:

Coal Black (p3),

Strong Tone Ink (ap), wash

Coal Black (p3),

Mix Coal Black (p3) 1:1 Turquoise (val), flbr

Mix Coal Black (p3) 1:2 Turquoise (val), bl

Turquoise (val), l&p

Ice Yellow (val), bottom drbr


SKIN:

Slaanesh Grey (gw),

Flesh (val a), flbr

Pale Flesh (val), l&p

Strong Tone Ink (ap), wash

Pale Flesh (val), l&p

BONES:

Flayed One Flesh (gw),

Ivory (val), flbr

Strong Tone Ink (ap), wash

Skeleton Bone (ap), l&p

Off White (val), l&p


GREEN osl:

Duck Egg Green (val a), *

Light Livery Green (val a), *

Off White (val), l*p

Waywatcher Green (gw), bl

DESERT bases:

Desert Sand (val texture), texture

Khaki (val a), * stones

Ice Yellow (val), drbr

Tufts:
Wasteland Tuft (ap),
Steppe Tuft 12mm (Paint Forge),
Steppe Tuft 6mm (Paint Forge),

l&p – lines and points,

p – points,

dl – deep lining,

bl – blend,

gl – glaze,

drbr – drybrush,

fltbr – flatbrush,

lobr – loaded brush,

stpl – stippling,

*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)

Scarhandpainting

Tutorial: Painting Empire of Dust Monolith

Welcome to Painting Empire of Dust Monolith tutorial. Here I will present to you a Step-by-step of an easy and fast painting process for Mantic Games Empire of Dust Monolith as can be seen in Gallery: Armada Empire of Dust.

Before we start, some notes:

  • This tutorial require airbrush.
  • You can use any paints, not just the ones I recommend. You can use this chart to compare paints between different brands.
  • Please note pictures present a huge miniature under strong light that might result in a feel of messy and clumsy paint job.
  • As usual, please take note that what works for me might not necessarily work for you.

Step one: Undercoat

I started with a thorough layer of Games Workshop Chaos Black spray.

Step two: Deck

I airbrushed Vallejo Khaki (air) over main deck and all top structures. I then flatbrushed GW Flayed One Flesh on top of Khaki layer. 

Step three: Broadside

I airbrushed Vallejo Panzer Dark Grey (air), followed by a layer of Vallejo Cold Grey (air). 

Step four: Gold

I then painted front and side ornaments, plus some additional detail with GW Warplock Bronze, followed by a solid flatbrush of P3 Molten Bronze and a highlight of Army Painter Shining Metal.

Step five: Wash

I then applied a lot of wash mix of Army Painter Strong Tone Ink 1:1 Army Painter Soft Tone Ink.
(If you followed my other tutorials you know at this point that the mixture is one of my very best friends in all painting.)

Step six: Main highlights

Once wash was dry I drybrushed broadsides with Vallejo Medium Sea Grey and then with Vallejo Ghost Grey. (I forgot to take pics). I then flatbrushed deck and top structure elements with GW Flayed One Flesh and edge highlighted with Vallejo Off White.

Step seven: Blue

I added accents of blue by manually painting chosen elements with Vallejo Magic Blue (air). I then highlighted with Vallejo Electric Blue, followed with Vallejo Glacier Blue. Furthermore I applied a wash layer of GW Guilliman Blue (glaze). Finally I added points of focus and thin highlights with Vallejo Glacier Blue. 

Step Eight: Purple/Pink

I applied Vallejo Warlock Purple onto chosen areas, including top gem, piramid inner lines and catapult flames. I then applied couple successive highlights with different mixes of Vallejo Warlock Purple and Vallejo Off White. With few highlights made with pure Vallejo Off White I moved to glaze Army Painter Purple Tone Ink into few areas of choice. This was contained mostly to top gem and recesses in catapult flames (and around). 

Such prepared miniature I airbrushed with two coats of Vallejo Polyurethane Matt Varnish and mounted on a base, following Tutorial: KoW Armada Water Bases


I hope you find this tutorial interesting. Be sure to let me know your thoughts in the comments below or via Facebook or Instagram. I would also appreciate if you considered sharing this content with your friends, who might find it useful. Finally if you are looking for a professional miniatures painting service be sure to contact me with this contact form. I always reply within 24 hours, after which please check out your spam folder.

Scarhandpainting

Review: Gamers Grass Flowers

Introduction:

Gamers Grass – is a Portuguese company producing a wide range of high quality basing accessories. For me Gamers Grass is a trustworthy, go to supplier of everything basing related. If you hadn’t had an opportunity to get to know their range, I recommend this article: Review: Gamers Grass Tufts. Now, all that introduction done, allow me to share my excitement over a new series of products: Flowers.


Quality:

Painting miniatures is my hobby, but is also my job. Good quality tools and products used for modeling can save a lot of time (and nerves). This is why I strive to use only the very best stuff. I’ve been working with Gamers Grass range for quite some time now and can honestly say they meet my high standards.

Flower beds are precisely shaped with base being thinner in a natural way. Not many stray stalks protrude out of the main body. These are all done very precisely. The bottom is covered with a strong adhesive, capable of sticking into a variety of surfaces. I have no negative feedback to give about these. Most importantly, due to a more natural shape and no powdering Gamers Grass flowers present themselves much better than competition. Just see below:


Visuals:

Visually Gamers Grass Flowers present themselves great. A palette of colors to choose from, some strong, some a bit pastele, makes the range fit into all variety of projects and styles. There’s also a variety of shapes which makes flowers look more natural. 


Functionality:

All flowers types are user friendly and there’s no quality difference between particular colors . There’s a clear separation between every piece on the sheet. Glue is strong and sticks to a range of different surfaces. There’s not many stray hair that require removal after application onto a base. Once used, flowers hold their shape nicely. Joy to work with. Additionally they come in two formats, one being four different colors packed into a single blister. This is a great way to get a lot of variety in a single cheap purchase, or a cool anniversary bouquet for your partner!


Exceptions:

I generally don’t expect modelling flowers to make a good impression. This is because usually they are messy and not very user friendly, dragging other beds out of the sheet alongside them, leaving powder everywhere etc. That being said, the Gamers Grass Flowers are awesome. Easy and Fun to use, clean, well shaped. Just awesome.


Price:

Time to take in the price factor. I’ve done quick research and here’s how it looks like against immediate competition:

  • AP 77/pack is 5,99€ translates into 7,78€/100 pieces
  • Paint Forge 50/pack is 3,56€ translates into 7,12€/100 pieces
  • GG 70/pack is 5,95€ translates into 8,5€/100pieces

It seems that Gamers Grass is the more expensive, even though not that much.


Summary:

To sum things up: I have tested about a dozen different suppliers in the past few years and Gamers Grass Flowers stand out both in quality and functionality on top of competition. Visuals are great, range is wide. Price might use a tweak, but in my opinion the product is totally worth the extra. Also due to reality we now live in, more suppliers will probably increase their pricing throughout the year.
On a scale where 10 is awesome, 8 is good, 6 is ok, 5 is mediocre, 3 is bad and I don’t want to even mention 1 – Gamers Grass Tufts get’s a 10/10. Call me a sucker and fanboy of the Gamers Grass range, but for me price is not a decisive factor when compared to such high quality! What’s your opinion? Does quality top price or vice versa? Let me know in the comments 😉

 

Where to buy:

You can order through Gamers Grass official store, or try out your luck in a local hobby store. To make things easier for you, Gamers Grass prepared this awesome Store Locator.

Scarhandpainting

Tutorial: Painting Road to Survival part 1 Stalkers

Welcome to Painting Road to Survival Stalkers tutorial. Here I will present to you a Step-by-step of an easy and fast painting process for Orzol Studio’s Stalkers team from the Road to Survival Kickstarter.

Before we start, some notes:

  • This tutorial require airbrush.
  • You can use any paints, not just the ones I recommend. You can use this chart to compare paints between different brands.
  • Please note pictures present a huge miniature under strong light that might result in a feel of messy and clumsy paint job.
  • Pictures names don’t match steps in this tutorial. This is because I re-used pictures made for an Instagram tutorial. Sorry if this causes confussion.
  • As usual, please take note that what works for me might not necessarily work for you.

Step one: Undercoat

I applied a strong layer of Citadel Chaos Black spray. I prefer spray over manual application, but this is just a personal preference. Any matt black undercoat will do, as long as it’s thorough.

Step two: Uniform 

I started by applying a strong layer of Vallejo Dark Green RLM71 (air) onto entire uniform. I used an airbrush for this, but it is not necessary. This layer might as well be applied manually, but might take few runs to look smooth and solid. Although boots, weapons and other detail got painted alongside the uniform, it’s not a problem. If you switch to manual painting you don’t have to worry about messing these up at this stage of paint job.

Next I airbrushed Vallejo Interior Green (air) over previous layer. Similarly to Dark Green this one can be done manually and follows same philosophy.

I switched to manual painting and with a basecoat size brush, flatbrushed a mix of Vallejo Interior Green (air) 1:1 Vallejo Heavy Khaki over the miniature. I then used a more precise brush and highlighted some edges with the same color mix.

Step three: Vest

With a solid color underneath a single layer of Vallejo Russian Green (air) was enough to provide a smooth base for the vest. The key was to avoid messing up all the bright uniform around. Because of that I outlined the vest with a precise brush and only then switched for a larger brush to gain speed.

Next I flatbrushed a mix of Vallejo Russian Green 1:1 Vallejo Olive Green over previous layer. This provided nice thickness, something the upcoming Wash will work good on.

Step four: Boots, Gloves, Mask

Using a small brush I applied a strong, precise layer of Vallejo Panzer Dark Grey (air) onto boots, mask, gloves, weapons and buckles.

I then switched to Vallejo Medium Sea Grey, thinned it down with medium and applied a somehow misty, irregular layer over Panzer Dark Grey, leaving spots of previous color visible. I deliberately left weapons and buckles be for the time being.

Step five: Brown wash

Using a large, soft brush I applied a lot of Games Workshop Agrax Earthshade onto entire miniature. After a while I used a clean precise brush to strip some of the paint from areas where too much pigmentation covered all the detail. I left the miniature to dry after that.

Step six: Weapons

I applied a partially translucent layer of thinned down Vallejo Wolf Grey (air) onto weapons and buckles. I moved a brush alongside blade and barrel, trying to leave pigmentation on the edges.

I then highlighted weapons with Games Workshop Pallid Wych Flesh. Mostly on the edges and with no dillution.

I then followed up by applying Army Painter Dark Tone Ink. Similar to Agrax, I let the paint flow then removed the excess and let the thing dry.

Finally I edge highlighted with Games Workshop Pallid Wych Flesh. This time around I included gas mask filter plus added few scratches here and there.

Step seven: Skin & Eyes

I started painting skin by applying a solid layer of slightly thinned down Vallejo Tan. This layer had to be precise and I avoided going out of line and messing up paintjob around it. I deliberately started painting skin before applying Agrax Earthshade Wash from previous tutorial so that any corrections could be done much easier, if required.

I then applied Games Workshop Dwarf Flesh onto previous layer. Same premise, except I left just a bit of Tan visible in the recesses.

Next I highlighted skin with Vallejo Flesh (air), which due to it’s consistency produces a partially translucent effect. I then re-applied Flesh on top of the head, cheeks and nose.

I followed up with Agrax Earthshade wash (done at Step five: Brown wash).

Finally I highlighted with Games Workshop Dwarf Flesh. I also blended some of the Dwarf Flesh over wash made stains on top of the head.

Painting eyes is a topic on it’s own and I’m not trying to write a book here, so I used a simple method of a single white line followed by a black dot in the middle. Any necessary corrections can be done to your heart’s content by painting over and over till good results are produced.

Step eight: Backpack & Holsters

I started with a strong layer of Vallejo Charred Brown (air), ensuring not to leave a mess on top of any previous layer around the backpack.

I then flatbrushed Vallejo Beasty Brown over Charred Brown. No thinning, just paint straight from a bottle and onto a palette before application.

I used Games Workshop Karak Stone for gritty highlights plus painted a blanket strapped at the bottom of the backpack.

I then switched to Vallejo Panzer Dark Grey (air) and re-painted all the buckles grey.

Agrax Earthshade wash followed (done at Step five: Brown wash).

Finally I applied a highlight of Games Workshop Karak Stone onto the edges and middle areas.

Step nine: Mask Visor

I tried to keep this one extra simple. Started with a gritty, messy layer of Games Workshop Pallid Wych Flesh. No need to be overly precise, nor smooth. The more irregular, diverse the visor looks now, the better the end result.

I then applied slightly thinned down Vallejo Hot Orange (air). Once dry I applied another layer of the same stuff. Done.

Step ten: Teddy Bear

This one is such a cool detail. I decided to go purple/pink to make it stand out. I started with a solid layer of Vallejo Royal Purple.

I then applied Games Workshop Agrax Earthshade wash (done at Step five: Brown wash).

Once wash dried, I highlighted most exposed areas of the bear with Vallejo Warlord Purple.

I then used Vallejo Squid Pink for final highlight, applying dots and lines on top of most exposed areas.

To bring all layers together I applied a strong layer of Army Painter Purple Tone Ink.

Step eleven: Yellow Kneepad

Once again I decided for a feature to stand out. I started with a strong, precise layer of Vallejo Heavy Goldbrown.

I then applied an irregular highlight of Vallejo Pale Yellow.

Finally I washed it with Army Painter Soft Tone Ink, which brought both layers together and made the knee pad look darker and used thoroughly.

Step twelve: Basing

Time to finish the paint job with a proper looking base. For this purpose I decided to go with something easy to follow. One texture, one highlight and one tuft type for extra detail. I started with a large flat brush, applying a thick layer of AK Interactive Dark Earth texture. You can switch to any dark texture like for example Games Workshop Stirland Mud. I just prefer AK’s one because I find it easier to apply.

Once dry I drybrushed Dark Earth with Games Workshop Karak Stone.

Finally I glued an Army Painter Wasteland Tuft and re-painted base’s edge black afterwards.

I hope you find this tutorial interesting. Be sure to let me know your thoughts in the comments below or via Facebook.or Instagram. I would also appreciate if you considered sharing this content with your friends, who might find it useful. Finally if you are looking for a professional miniatures painting service be sure to contact me with this contact form. I always reply within 24 hours, after which please check out your spam folder.


Also be sure to check out Orzol Studio and their awesome Kickstarter: Road to Survival

Scarhandpainting

Colour Recipes: Blood Bowl Thunder Valley Greenskins (Paleskins)

Here are some Colour Recipes for Blood Bowl Black Orcs team from Gallery: Thunder Valley Paleskins. Please take note that this is a simple colour scheme, not covering multiple overlapping layers and blends in between, that lead to the final product. It is supposed to be used as guideline not a step-by-step.

PALE skin:

Mix: Tan (val) 1:3:3 Flesh (val a), Squid Pink (val a), *

Flesh (val a), *

Pale Flesh (val a), *

Mix: Volupus Pink (gw) 1:5 Glaze Medium (gw),

Mix: Volupus Pink (gw) 1:5:1 Glaze Medium (gw), Purple Tone Ink (ap), deep lines

Mix: Volupus Pink (gw) 1:5:1 Glaze Medium (gw), Red Tone Ink (ap), deep lines

Pale Flesh (val), l&p


METAL armour:

Warplock Bronze (gw),

Gun Metal (ap),

Shining Silver (ap), l&p

Mix Strong Tone Ink (ap) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (ap),

Shining Silver (ap), l&p

RED armour:

Red Terracotta (val), stpl

Flat Red (val), stpl

Strong Tone Ink (ap),

Orange Fire (val), stpl

Flat Red (val), bl


BROWN belts & strips:

Red Terracotta (val),

Pallid Wych Flesh (gw), flbr

Off White (val), l&p

Mix: Scorched Brown (val) 1:1:1 Dark Fleshtone (val), Medium,

Mix: Strong Tone Ink (ap) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (ap),

GREY clothes:

Panzer DK. Grey (val),

Fenrisian Grey (gw), flbr

Pallid Wych Flesh (gw), l&p

Strong Tone Ink (ap),

Off White (val), l&p


BASES:

Dark Earth (ak texture),

Karak Stone (gw), drbr

Flayed One Flesh (gw), flbr

l&p – lines and points,

p – points,

dl – deep lining,

bl – blend,

gl – glaze,

drbr – drybrush,

fltbr – flatbrush,

lobr – loaded brush,

stpl – stippling,

*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)

Scarhandpainting

Tutorial: Painting Blood Bowl Bogenhafen Barons

Welcome to Painting Blood Bowl Bogenhafen Barons tutorial. Here I will present to you a Step-by-step of an easy and fast painting process for Games Workshop Bogenhafen Barons as can be seen in Gallery: Bogenhafen Barons.

Before we start, some notes:

  • This tutorial require airbrush.
  • You can use any paints, not just the ones I recommend. You can use this chart to compare paints between different brands.
  • Please note pictures present a huge miniature under strong light that might result in a feel of messy and clumsy paint job.
  • Pictures names don’t match steps in this tutorial. This is because I re-used pictures made for an Instagram tutorial. Sorry if this causes confussion.
  • As usual, please take note that what works for me might not necessarily work for you.

Step one: Undercoat

I started with a thorough layer of Games Workshop Chaos Black spray. This is a standard procedure for me. Chaos Black spray is my go to choice when it comes to undercoat. 

Step two: Cream

I started by airbrushing Vallejo Bonewhite (air) all over feathers and clothes of the miniature, not caring if I mess up everything around. Paint was applied straight out of bottle, no dilution. I then moved to GW Pale Wych Flesh and
Flatbrushed it over previous layer. This layer was meant to build volume of paint and just a bit of highlight for the color, so that further ahead Wash could do a better job.

Step three: Grey

I applied Vallejo Air Panzer Dark Grey (air) manually, with natural dilution (air series). This paint is easy to control which helped me keep the layer precise. The color wasn’t strong but this layer didn’t had to. It was meant to prepare a background for future highlights of dark black-to-brown elements. Next I used slightly diluted Vallejo Glacier Blue and flatbrushed it over previous layer. Finally I applied few highlights with GW Pale Wych Flesh.

Step four: Skin

I begun painting skin with Vallejo Tan by applying a thin layer and concentrating on filling recesses. I added another thin layer on large flat areas to provide a solid color. Next I switched to GW Dwarf Flesh covered previous layer using flatbrush technique. Final highlights were made with Vallejo Flesh (air). I used the paint straight out of the bottle and applied it on the edges and on top of flat areas.

Step five: Browns

I took on Browns by manually applying Vallejo Dark Fleshtone (air) onto everything to-be-brown. Natural air series dilution allowed me to control the paint and avoid messing up other layers. I then switched to GW Karak Stone and Flayed One Flesh for classic highlights. Just few lines and dots on the edges and in center areas.

Step six: Metal

I started metal with GW Warplock Bronze, applying a thinned down layer on top of armor pieces. I then moved to P3 Molten Bronze for flatbrushed highlights. Finally I applied few highlights with AP Shining Silver.

Step seven: Violet

I applied a layer of Vallejo Violet on chosen parts of clothes and decorations. This was the last layer before wash so I ensured it didn’t leave a mess on top of previous elements. At this point of the paint job, anything could still be corrected with minimum effort, and I done so accordingly.

Step eight: Wash

This is where magic always happens. I applied a wet layer of AP Strong Tone Ink mixed with a tiny bit of Matt Varnish, onto entire miniature. I then ensured to remove any excess paint, from where detail got completely covered by pigmentation, with a clean brush.

Step nine: Highlights

Once wash dried up, I applied highlights of GW Pale Wych Flesh. Edge highlights, points of focus and lines in the middle areas for everything not metal or skin. I also applied a strongly thinned down layer of Pale Wych Flesh on top of Purple clothes creating a somehow mist-like effect.

Step ten: Purple

I then got back to violet (now more of a purple) and blended a layer of Vallejo Warlord Purple (air) on top of it. Air series does not require any thinning, but I added a bit of medium to leave texture difference visible underneath. With a strong and vibrant color I moved to Vallejo Pale Flesh for both an edge highlight and some random lines. I used this opportunity to add few dots and lines on top of skin, thus providing a final highlight.

Step eleven: Belts

To make the belt stand out I applied Vallejo Panzer Dark Grey (air) on top and highlighted with Vallejo Ghost Grey. 

Step twelve: Final touches

After painting eyes and correcting small mistakes I finally based the miniature. I used AK Interactive Dark Earth for texture and drybrushed GW Karak Stone all over it. I then added a gentle drybrush of GW Flayed One Flesh to finally airbrush a straight line of pure white. To add some extra features I glued Gamers Grass 2mm Tiny Dry Tufts. Job complete.

I hope you find this tutorial interesting. Be sure to let me know your thoughts in the comments below or via Facebook.or Instagram. I would also appreciate if you considered sharing this content with your friends, who might find it useful. Finally if you are looking for a professional miniatures painting service be sure to contact me with this contact form. I always reply within 24 hours, after which please check out your spam folder.

Scarhandpainting

Colour Recipes: KoW Armada Empire of Dust

Here are some Colour Recipes for Kings of War: Armada Empire of Dust from Gallery: Armada Empire of Dust. Please take note that this is a simple colour scheme, not covering multiple overlapping layers and blends in between, that lead to the final product. It is supposed to be used as guideline not a step-by-step.

GREY hulls:

Panzer Dark Grey (val), *

Cold Grey (val), *

Mix: Strong Tone Ink (ap) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (ap),

Medium Sea Grey (val), drbr

Ghost Grey (val), drbr

 


BRIGHT BROWN decks:

Khaki (val), *

Flayed One Flesh (gw), flbr

Mix: Strong Tone Ink (ap) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (ap),

Flayed One Flesh (gw), l&p

WHITE sails:

Khaki (val), *

Wolf Grey (val), *

White (val), *


GOLD ornaments:

Tin Bitz (gw),

Molten Bronze (p3), flbr

Shining Metal (ap), l&p

Mix: Strong Tone Ink (ap) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (ap),

Shining Metal (ap), l&p

BLUE ornaments:

Magic Blue (val),

Electric Blue (val), flbr

Glacier Blue (val), l&p

Blue Tone Ink (ap),

Glacier Blue (val), l&p


PINK Flames:

Warlord Purple (val),

Mix: Warlord Purple (val) 2:1 Off White (val), flbr

Off White (val), l&p

Purple Tone Ink (ap), wash

l&p – lines and points,

p – points,

dl – deep lining,

bl – blend,

gl – glaze,

drbr – drybrush,

fltbr – flatbrush,

lobr – loaded brush,

stpl – stippling,

*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)

Scarhandpainting

Tutorial: Painting Kings of War Armada Dwarf Fleet

Welcome to Painting KoW Armada Dwarf Fleet tutorial. Here I will present to you a Step-by-step of an easy and fast painting process for Mantic’s Armada Dwarfs as can be seen in Gallery: Armada Dwarfs.

Before we start, some notes:

  • This tutorial does not require airbrush.
  • You can use any paints, not just the ones I recommend. You can use this chart to compare paints between different brands.
  • Please note pictures present a huge miniature under strong light that might result in a feel of messy and clumsy paint job.
  • As usual, please take note that what works for me might not necessarily work for you.

Step one: Undercoat

I started with a thorough layer of Games Workshop Chaos Black spray. This is a standard procedure for me. Chaos Black spray is my go to choice when it comes to undercoat. 

Step two: Armor

I painted entire ship with slightly thinned Games Workshop Warplock Bronze. Once Warplock Bronze dried I flatbrushed entire miniature with Army Painter Gun Metal followed by another flatbrush, this time Army Painter Shining Silver. Finally I painted few elements with P3 Blighted Gold. 

Step three: Red

Next I added some color to the ship by painting roof and side balcony elements with Vallejo Burnt Red which was in turn highlighted with a single layer of Vallejo Flat Red.

Step four: Wash

I richly applied Army Painter Strong Tone Ink onto entire miniature. The paint might be glossy depending on particular pot you got. I recommend adding just a bit of Matt Varnish before use.

Step five: Highlights

With wash dried out nicely I applied a layer of Vallejo Flat Red in most exposed red areas. I then followed with edge highlights and few lines/dots of  Games Workshop Lugganath Orange. I then done the same for gold except I used GW Auric Armour Gold. For silver I went back to Army Painter Shining Silver, highlighting few exposed spots and edges.

Step six: Front slots

I decided to add additional touch to the front of the ship, by painting two frontal slots blue. I done this by applying a layer of thinned GW Fenrisian Grey and then a wash of GW Contrast Ultramarines Blue

Step seven: Basing

In simple terms I followed my own tutorial for Armada Basing, that you may find HERE, except I used standard hdf bases painted with a single layer of Vallejo UK Mediteranean Blue, followed by standard AK Interactive Pacific Blue, AK Interactive Water Effect and AK Interactive Water Foam textures. 

I hope you find this tutorial interesting. Be sure to let me know your thoughts in the comments below or via Facebook. I would also appreciate if you considered sharing this content to any groups or forums, where it might help someone paint their miniatures. Scarhandpainting is not just about professional miniatures painting service. I do my best to provide interesting tutorials and share my experience with other hobbyists. 

Scarhandpainting

Tutorial: Painting 15mm Imperial Romans

Welcome to Painting 15mm Imperial Romans tutorial. Here I will present to you a Step-by-step of an easy and fast painting process for 15mm scale Imperial Romans.

Before we start, some notes:

  • This tutorial does not require airbrush.
  • You can use any paints, not just the ones I recommend. You can use this chart to compare paints between different brands.
  • To better demonstrate the technique I used Grenzer Games 15mm Imperial Romans.
  • Please note all pictures present a huge miniature that might result in a feel of messy and clumsy paint job. Real life miniature is pretty tiny 🙂
  • As usual, please take note that what works for me might not necessarily work for you.

Step one: Undercoat

I undercoated the miniature with Games Workshop Chaos Black spray followed by few manually applied corrections. Any black undercoat will do, I just prefer this one over any and all other. 

Step two: Armor

I painted entire miniature with slightly thinned Games Workshop Warplock Bronze. This layer does not need to be precise, or smooth. What counts is for paint to flow into all recesses and deep areas. Next I flatbrushed entire miniature with Army Painter Gun Metal. The layer looks nasty, but it does not have to be perfect, especially in places where other colors will cover it up later on.

Step three: Red

Next I moved to red, painting main shield area and clothes with Vallejo Burnt Red. Vallejo Flat Red followed on the same areas. I deliberately left some spots of previous layer visible on the shield and in deep areas of the cloth.

Step four: Skin

With larger scale miniatures I usually start skin much darker, but for such tiny detail I decided to go with a strong layer relatively medium skin tone of Games Workshop Ratskin Flesh. I then highlighted few spots with Vallejo Flesh.

Step five: Brown

To keep brown elements more interesting I started dark with Vallejo Mahogany, highlighted with Vallejo Beasty Brown. I then used Games Workshop Karak Stone for final highlight – just few dots and lines in most accessible areas.

Step Six: Wash

I used a mix of Army Painter Strong Tone Ink 1:1 Army Painter Soft Tone Ink and applied it onto entire miniature. 

Step seven: Final Highlights

I went back to Vallejo Flat Red and applied few lines on the edges of the cloth, then stippled a bit on the shield. I also put tiny dots of Games Workshop Lugganath Orange in few exposed spots to add extra focus to the miniature, once deployed on the gaming board.

For armor I used Army Painter Shining Silver painted on the edges of the shield and in few spots across the miniature.

Finally I put tiny dots of Games Workshop Flayed One Flesh on browns and skin.

Step eight: Basing

For basing I decided to go easy. First I applied AK Interactive Dark Earth taking extra care to cover any visible height difference areas. Once dry, I drybrushed entire base with Games Workshop Karak Stone. Gamers Grass tiny tufts, finally black edges – the miniatures were complete.

… and that’s it! A bit messy, but once on the board it really catches attention.

I hope you find this tutorial interesting. Be sure to let me know your thoughts in the comments below or via Facebook. I would also appreciate if you considered sharing this content to any groups or forums, where it might help someone paint their miniatures. Scarhandpainting is not just about professional miniatures painting service. I do my best to provide interesting tutorials and share my experience with other hobbyists. 

Once again I invite you to follow Grenzer Games on Facebook and definitely visit their online store to see more awesome products.

 

 

Scarhandpainting

Review: Grenzer Games 15mm Imperial Romans

Grenzer Games – a small, UK based games development company, specializing in miniature wargames. Thanks to their generosity I was able to lay my hands on a batch of recently released 15mm Imperial Romans. I took these on a spin from bubble envelope to battle ready and now I will share my impressions with you.

Visual & Quality Impressions:

Right off the bat the miniatures look amazing. With rich, crisp detail these are nothing close to what I have ever seen in such scale. Furthermore the miniatures are well proportioned. Great quality overall.

… and I know, I know. I too am sentimental towards hand sculpted metal miniatures, but just look at that detail! Such visual coherency of scale! Insane!

Functionality Impressions:

15mm Imperial Romans come in two versions: As a downloadable pre supported STL files, or 3d printed miniatures. I received a pack of eight printed miniatures. Mounted on print supports they were able to withstand shipping from United Kingdom in a bubble envelope without any damage and with no bent elements. Cutting off the supports was very easy and even though 3d printed miniatures took a soapy bath before painting, the process was nothing close to a pain of removing flash and mold lines, so common amongst metal counterparts. Full preparation took less than 15 minutes, which compared to working with metal is near to nothing. 

Material itself is smooth and easy to work with. Miniatures are a bit elastic and seem durable and forgiving. I tested one “Pilum” to the limit, breaking it in half as a result. It was easy to repair, even though I broke it six times in different places throughout the process. Similar treatment would see a metal counterpart require replacement, whereas 3d print can be glued back to your heart’s content. 

Finally painting over this material went smooth and without any issues. Joy to work with.

Price:

At a price of 3,75GBP for a Legionary pack containing 8 miniatures and 2,35GBP for a Command Pack containing 5 miniatures, Grenzer Games product is priced on par with metal counterparts from other suppliers. Considering how detailed and easy to work with these miniatures are I would say they’re a steal!

Summary:

Grenzer Games did a fantastic job providing well proportioned, top quality miniatures with fantastic detail. Very easy to work with, joy to paint. To top it all off 15mm Imperial Romans come reasonably priced! I fully recommend this product and will definitely keep an eye out for updates of the entire range.

Stay tuned for an upcoming step-by-step tutorial on painting 15mm Imperial Romans and in the meantime I invite you to follow Grenzer Games on Facebook and definitely visit their online store to see more products.

Scarhandpainting