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Tag Archives: Tutorial

TUTORIAL: PREPARING HOBBY GRAVEL

A hobby gravel – along with sand, gravel is a basing resource that each modeller should be acquainted with. Popular to an extent where some companies tried to brand it. For me, gravel and sand are supplies that I avoid buying in hobby stores. Why spend your money on thingsg that you can acquire yourself, especially when you know what to look for and how to prepare it? I preffer spending my cash on paints and awesome miniatures. Not that I ever went gravel hunting. Just kept in mind that modelling treasures like this might be found unexpectedly and to take advantage of such find if luck favours me…

Backstory:

One of these magic moments happened just few days ago. I was walking my dog, decided to take a new route and visit a small defile left by a construction long time gone. Suddenly I stumbled upon a huge pile of perfect gravel. By ‘perfect’ I mean slim, thin, not too sandy, sturdy pieces. Something ideal for basing. I marked the spot in my memory and got back there, armed with a small container, few hours later. Took ‘the sample’ and upon reaching home, spent few minutes preparing it for later use…

I USED:

  • Thick sieve
  • Rare strainer
  • Few plastic containers

1  First I separated the biggest chunks from the rest of precious gravel. These were a bit sandy so I left them for further cleaning (water and toothbrush will do).

2  I then used a rare strainer to separate medium sized pieces from the smallest ones. Medium sized pieces are perfect for scenic rocks, or more planned surfaces. I like to have these in a separate container, just to pick what I need at a whim.

3  What's left was a pile of small, flat pieces - ideal for standard miniature basing. This is what you usually get, when purchasing a hobby gravel in a store. As you can see, a lot of sand and dirt was filtered alongside gravel. Fortunatelly, nothing that a thick sieve couldn't handle.

Done:

Sounds so simple, that you probably ask yourself why have I done a tutorial out of it? I decided to TUT this to show the extreme level of simplicity required to prepare your own gravel. Sure – there is a catch to it: you gotta find some gravel in the first place – still, unless you live at the North pole – one day you will just bump into it. Old construction sites are a good place to start looking. Good hunting.

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TUTORIAL: PAINTING ‘INFINITY’ BLACK

There’s probably as many recipes for painting black as there are painters all over the globe. On top of that there are many diffetrent  techniques to choose from. Painting a lot of detailed Infinity the Game miniatures, I have found one that works best for me. Today I would like to present to you a ‘Five Layers Technique‘ based colour scheme that I myself use.

First of all some home brew theory. Just like most colours – Black looks great when highlighted. Black surfaces make good impression, when we are able to see different overlaping layers and how colour works with natural curves and detail. For this purpose I always used grey to highlight and texturize black. This led to black effectively turning grey in the end, so I usually washed it with black inks/washes to deepen the ‘blackness’ in recesses and darken flat surfaces. That in turn lessened the highlights and flattened the entire impression. Here’s where I figured to follow wash with an edge ow white’ish colours to produce strong contrast and ‘pop’ the blackness.

I USED:

* Chaos Black Undercoat (GW),

* Skavenblight Dinge (GW),

* Fenrisian Grey (GW),

* Oallid Wych Flesh (GW),

* Dark Tone Ink (AP),

!  Important note: For this technique you don't need to re-paint entire surface with pure black. I use it on different, mixed colours - usually being previously airbrushed all over the miniature.

1  First I covered the entire target surface with Skavenblight Dinge. To fasten and ease the process I added a bit of watter to the paint. No need to cover everything with a strong layer - just smoother what's undeneath it with a nice dark grey.

2  Then I made some random strokes with Fenrisian Grey. Once again I dilluted the paint a bit, to make it more transparent. This layer provides texture and some irregularities to all the flat surfaces.

3  I then edged with Pallid Wych Flesh. I tend to edge only the natural sharp edges and some easy accessible spots. the most important are the ones on top of the surface I paint. Added some random scratches here and there too.

4  I then washed the entire thing black with AP's Dark tone Ink. (no picture)

5  Finally I edged once again with Pallid Wych Flesh. Added some more scratches. Job done.

That is the entire secret behing my Painting ‘Infinity’ Black technique. Fast and easy. Sure, no perfectly smooth transitions, no none metallic metal, but still a very rewarding result. With a bit of imagination and practice – this might be used as a perfect starting point for a much more complicated paint job. Hope it works for you.

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TUTORIAL: MODELLING COBBLESTONE BASES

In this easy, step-by-step tutorial I’m going to show you how to create a Cobblestone Base in a what is probably the fastest and simplest way ever.

I USED:

  • Wallpaper*,
  • Basing Glue,
  • Flat (used up) Brush,
  • Hobby Knife,

*Just find a suitable one at a local builder’s store.

1  I started by covering entire base with Basing Glue.

2  I then cut off a piece of the wallpaper to be slightly larger then the base itself.

3  Next I glued the piece onto the base, turned the base upside down and cut off the excess of the wallpaper with a Hobby Knife.

4  Last step was to smoother the edges with a slightly moisted fingertip.

Now you see how insanely fast and easy this was. For the purpose of this tutorial I made just this simple base, but once you get your hands on a proper wallpaper, options are limitless. You can use it to texturize bases and terrain, add more detail or even mix different types of texture.

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TUTORIAL: MODELLING OVERGROWN BASES

Today I’m going to reveal one of my dearest secrets: how Super Glue and Basing Glue can be used to make some fantastic, crazy, awesome stuff! I have invented it by accident when I was a kid, used it since and love it for both simplicity and awesome texture effect. In this easy, step-by-step tutorial I will show you how to produce your own Overgrown Bases!

I USED:

  • Super Glue,
  • Basing Glue,
  • Birch-tree seeds*
  • Bitz of dried out grapes**
  • Random small balls***

*I purchased a huge pack of these for approximately 1€,

**Once you eat up all the goodie goodie grapes, you have like a bunch of wooden leftovers. Once dried out these are awesome bor basing miniatures.

***I use either Air Soft Gun ammuniton, or for smaller calliber moist absorber balls obtainable with every new pair of shoes. Just ask your gf to dig out one of her shoeboxes, there should be a small paper bag filled with tiny, translucent balls in it.

1  I started by applying basing glue all over the base. No need to make it smooth, just enough not to leave any empty spaces.

2  I then dropped some of the tiny balls and Birch-tree seeds over the wet glue.

3  Here's where MAGIC begun. I covered entire base with Super Glue and watched as it was warped before my eyes in a matter of merely seconds.

4  Before it dried out I added some pieces of dry grape vines to make it look like some strange, alien mushrooms, or plants. I then covered additional stuff with more Super Glue to harden it.

5  Last step was to leave entire thing to dry out. Usually it takes around five minutes for a base to get dry, but it might take a bit longer, depending on how much basing glue is used.

6  The final step was to undercoat dried out base with Chaos Black spray... then do a quick paint job with random colours.

Now seriously – tell my that’s not an awesome texture effect XD This is like ultra-fast, mega-cool way of using two glues to create utter chaos on any surface. Chaos mutations, warped stuff, Zerg creep, alien planet foliage, jungle floor, faerie glade, name it – then glue+glue it 😉

Do not hesitate to let me know and send some pictures via FACEBOOK if you ever use the tutorial. I will be happy to see how it turned out 😉

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TUTORIAL: MODELLING CAVE BASES

In this easy, step-by-step tutorial I’m going to show you how to create a Cave Base.

I USED:

  • Super Glue,
  • Basing Glue,
  • Toothpicks and nail sticks*
  • Small gravel stones**
  • Games Workshop Texture Paints,

*Ask your GF if you don’t know where to obtain the latter.

**Search in IKEA or any home/garden store. A lifetime stockpile of these is less than 5€.

 

1  I started by cutting off the tips of both toothpicks and nail sticks. These would do for fine stalagmites later on.

2  I then applied couple of drops of basing glue onto the base. Before it dried out I applied Super Glue on it and mounted stalagmites, tip upwards, on the mix.

3  Next I covered entire stalagmites with basing glue and left it to dry. The excess glue, moved by the power of gravity, was drawn downwards, where it rested around the base of the stalagmites, making them look smooth and natural.

4  Using the previous technique I applied some basing glue in few spots and then Super Glue'ed some gravel over it. You can actually glue any type of stuff with this - like skulls, some pieces of armour etc.

5  I then covered antire surface, except for any fillers, with Games Workshop's texture paints. I used a mix of Agrellan Earth and Agrellan Badland for this tutorial, but actually any of the range will do - as long as you would like to undercoat the base afterwards.

6  The final step was to undercoat dried out base with Chaos Black spray...

Now, what’s left is just to paint the bases with your preferable colour scheme. I chose to go red/copper style similar to ‘the Wave’ and watered some spots with clear resin, but the number of potential colour schemes is unlimited.

If you ever use the tutorial – be sure to let me know and send some pictures via FACEBOOK. I will be happy to see how it turned out 😉

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TUTORIAL: EXPLODING MINIATURES

In this easy, step-by-step tutorial I’m going to show you how to create an ‘explosion from inside’ effect on the miniatures. Personally I use this method to create exploding mines or in this case Crazy Koalas from Infinity the game, but the number of potential uses is limited only by your imagination. That being said, buckle up and have a nice ride.

I USED:

  • Super Glue,
  • Green Stuff,
  • Modelling Tools,
  • Two ‘Crazy Koala’ miniatures,

1  I started with cutting the miniature diagonally in two. I didn't thought too much about where to cut, just about the waist, leaving one hand attached to the lower part of the body.

2  I then rolled some Green Stuff and glued it onto the lower body part.

3  Next I applied a small drop of Super Glue onto the Green Stuff and attached the upper body part to it.

4  Then I squeezed both part, forcing the Green Stuff out.

5  Next I gently pulled both body parts away, creating a gap with rended Green Stuff inbetween the parts.

6  Next I rolled another piece of Green Stuff and repeated the technique, adding head to the miniature.

7  After pulling the head away I used a modelling tool to stretch the excess Green Stuff to the sides.

8  I also applied Super Glue onto the Green Stuff to fasten it's hardening.

The end result is below:

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TUTORIAL: MODELLING WITCH HUNTER’S HAT

Last weeks I’ve been diverting more and more attention to Mordheim. Maybe that’s because I’ve been playing PC version lately. Either way, every couple of years I get that ‘Mordheim fever’ and delve deep into my imagination, staying up whole nights, making something cool for my own Mordheim collection. Right now I work on a brand new Mordheim gaming board thus I figured out to revive an old Tutorial from Mordheim Treasure Hunters blog and add it to the collection here at Scarhandpainting. More articles are already prepared, but I somehow felt like this one will be a nice way to close the 2016th.

wh 3

Below I will show you a quick way of making a Witch Hunter’s Hat with basic tools, some green stuff and some plastic leftovers. The thing about Witch Hunter’s Hats is that they are extremely rare and yet they look just awesome. A lot of miniatures can be reborn as proper Witch Hunters just by adding this small detail. So, here’s how I do it:

I USED:

* Modelling Knife,
* Sculpting Tools,
* Modellin File,
* Green Stuff,
* Super Glue,
* Some round and flat plastic bitz (heads in helmets will do too),
* Some tubular sprue plastic bitz (easy to get as they’re in almost every sprue),

wh hat 3

1  I started with preparation of hat parts. For this purpose I used round shaped plastic bitz, cutting off the excess of plastic with Modelling Knife first, then flattening the top area with a Modelling File. Next I used a Modelling Knife to cut tubular sprue bitz into nice hat top pieces. This is how it should look like when done:

wh hat 4

2  I then glued the pieces together, prepared a piece of Green Stuff and rolled it into a thin line. I also cut small pieces of Green Stuff loose and rolled them into small balls.

wh hat 5

3  I applied some Super Glue around the connection between hat's top and brim. I then applied a Green Stuff rolled piece onto the glue and flattened it with a Sculpting Tool modelling it into a strap. For this purpose I used a rounded part just behind the tip of a Sculpting Tool.

wh hat 6

4  I smoothed the texture of starps using a Sculpting Tool dipped in water. I then left the hats to dry.

wh hat 7

5  Once the Green Stuff dried out I applied Super Glue onto a piece of plastic, sticked a Green Stuff ball onto the tip of a Sculpting Tool, gently dipped it in the glue and applied it to a hat's strip. I also flattened the ball with the other (rounded) end of a Sculpting Tool thus creating a clasp.

wh hat 8

6  In the end I modelled a pattern on each clasp with the sharp tip of a Sculpting Tool. Once it was done I let the Green Stuff to dry out. Instead of modelling a clasp yourself, you can use any well sized bitz or even a piece of plastic. Actually anything fitting the hat's strap will do.

wh hat 9

The final effect may not be outstanding but it will do the job of transforming your Imperial Mercenary, or any other miniature into a badass Witch Hunter. See for yourself in the  Warband: ‘Scourge of the Witches’ gallery. Here’s a preview pic:

wh hat 10

I hope you like the tutorial. It is an old piece but I really wanted to have it here at Scarhandpainting.

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TUTORIAL: DIY CANDLES

Winter is already here thus I thought about warming the theme a bit by introducing a tutorial of how to make candles for 28-30mm scale. Why produce such things? In miniatures hobby candles are rare bitz among what you get in the sets designed by main miniature producers. Even if a set contains some, their number is scarce. Why not make your own and adorn bases, miniatures and even scenery with them? Be it Age of Sigmar, Mordheim, Warhammer 40,000 or just a fantasy dungeon – candles will provide mood to both miniatures and scenery. Below is a quick and easy step-by-step of how to produce your own 28-30mm scale candles. Enjoy…

I USED:

  • Super Glue,
  • Basing Glue,
  • Toothpicks,
  • Tissue,
  • Thin Wire,
  • Modelling Tools,

1  I started with preparation of candles-to-be by cutting toothpicks into small pieces. I tried to keep all of them between 5-10mm long, to better fit into the 28-30mm fantasy scale. Once I had couple pieces done I choose some of them and drilled small holes from one side. These will be used later to hold candlewicks.

2  Next I glued the candles onto the base. In case of scenery I usually drill small holes to hold the candles in place or just glue them as it is if I'm sure the scenery won't require enchanced durability. For the purpose of this tutorial I drilled some holes in an old square Warhammer base.

3  I then glued small pieces of wire into the holes, to look like candlewicks.

4  Then came the time to cover the candles with a basing glue, applying additional glue around the base of each candle to create an effect of spilled wax.

5  Next step was to prepare couple of small flames, using a wet paper tissue. I just rolled, then cut it into small pieces, which I then rolled once again.

6  The flames where then glued to the candles with super glue and once in place - covered with glue to harden entirely.

7  I left the stuff to dry, then painted it with mix of creme and white, washed the candlewicks and flames with some washes.

The end result will look more or less like this:

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TUTORIAL: WHEN HANDS SAFETY WENT WRONG

Scarred hand x

“Khorne cares not from whence the blood flows, only that it does…” and in case of our favorite hobby – Let’s just say that it sustains Khorne much more than you can imagine. If you haven’t had any nasty damage done to your hands during hobby labour, than you probably don’t know what true modelling is about! To be short – Yes, a lot of nasty cuts and damage happens to modellers all over the world at daily basis. Most basic are the modelling knife cuts and punctures but believe me – there’s plenty of more serious damage going on all the time. How can we prevent such damage? Well, otherwise than being extra careful – and this not always helps – we can’t. Now you probably wander ‘so what is it that this article is actually about?’ – a fine question, let me answer: This article is all about what happens after you’ve injured your precious hands.

1  BE PREPARED

There’s nothing worse than being caught off guard. Be sure to anticipate an injury at some point and keep some purified water, plasters and a bandage nearby – in case you would need them. Also it is recommended to know where in a hand the most important veins are located. The best way to learn it is to GOOGLE IT. This way, once your hands start bleeding, you will have both confidence and means to deal with an injury the right way…

Scarred hand veins

2  STAY CALM

Nasty hand injuries happen but unless they are located on the inside of your wrist, or you’ve just chopped off a finger – they shouldn’t pose an immediate threat. Sure, they are bloody to a point when you start to wander if death is what’s comming next – but hey – not a chance for that. In worst case scenario a nerve could’ve been damaged, but these tend to regenerate over time. So no matter what – keep calm and reasonable…

Scarred hand calm

3  FIRST AID

Once you’ve located the cut, make sure to clean-up the wound using purified water. (Do not use alcohol!). It is very important, especially due to workbenches being full of dust, sand, pieces of plastic and overall dirt – modelling leftovers. Once the wound is clean, use a piece of bandage or a plaster to cover it (Do not use cotton whool as it will stick to the wound making any later change of dressing difficult).  To help stop the bleeding keep the wounded hand up, pressing the bandaged wound with your free hand…

Scarred hand 1st aid

4  PROFESSIONAL HELP

Most wounds do not require professional assistance. Small cuts are rather easy to deal with, but sometimes – when things went bananas – it’s good to try and seek a Doctors help. Better to have a nasty wound sutured than to parade with a malformed finger to the rest of your days, especially if there’s a chance that hand’s basic functions are endangered (I know the latter from my own experience, as one of my fingers is almost out of the game). Be sure to call/visit a doctor ASAP if any of the below are true:

  • The wound won’t stop bleeding,
  • There is a tension in the wounded finger, you are unable to perform some movements,
  • You are unabple to straighten the finger/s,
  • You feel like some really crazy shit is going on with the wound and it should be cared by a pro,

Scarred hand help

 

MY OWN ADVENTURE:

During my time as a modeller I had my share of some really nasty injuries. The testimony of theese is left over my hands in form of scars. I even had one of my right hand’s knuckles damaged to a point of no turning back to it’s previous function. Still the most bloody of my hand injuries took place in 2011. I remember like if it was yesterday. A sunny day during a weekend with me working on the floor near my old workbench. I was preparing a series of terrain pieces for Warhammer Fantasy Battles ( Yup – there was such a game in the old days 😛 ). I was cutting some styrofoam into basic shape for hills. Done a lot of these and let routine take over. All of a sudden I felt a burning pain in my left thumb.

Scarred hand y

As it happened – I almost completely sliced off the entire top part of my thumb’s knuckle along with a piece of styrodure. At first there was no blood, only pain and a bit of ‘what the hell just happened?’. Moments later blood gushed from the wound. I thought that maybe I’ve injured some vital vein or something – there was a lot of blood, at least much more than ever before. Pressing the injury I’ve checked out google for any information about possibility of veins being in the vicinity of the wound. Fortunatelly for me I cut a knuckle along with it’s neighborhood, instead of slicing through the inner left part of the finger. So I’ve calmed down and cleaned up the wound. First using plain water (not so smart, but I’m hardcore when it comes to injuries – what doesn’t kill me, makes me stronger), then preparing a makeshift bandage…

Scarred hand 1(That looks nasty doesn’t it? That’s how a hand injury looks like – don’t let yourself be overwhelmed with panic once you cut yourself this way.)

I took things into my own hands (or rather hand, as the other one was currently out of commission) and prepared a special form of dressing for the injured finger. My reasoning went like this: I didn’t wanted to go to hospital, await for three to five hours to finally be stitched. I also wanted to keep my finger operational in the future (both near and distant). I wasn’t thinking smart, just followed modellers calling on this. I cut two splints out of a coca-cola bottle, desinfected them with alcohol and used a plaster to secure the finger with them. I also bandaged the wound itself and actually taped the entire construction. This dressing was to be switched couple of times a day – leaving more and more of the finger in the open so that the wound could breathe. The key point was for the wound to stay immobile, not to let it open and start bleeding again…

Scarred hand 2

This looks crazy funny when I see it now – but back then I was proud of my creations. Be it by a blessing or merely luck following idiots – it worked. Right now a scar is in the place of former wound, but at least the finger works fine and no nerve has been severed. It is fully operational with all it’s functions being kept.

Scarred hand 3

So – we’ve learned, we’ve laught – don’t do that at home etc. The final advice I can provide you with is once again – keep calm. Sooner or later an injury will happen to you – keep panic at bay and follow with the first aid. If you’ve prepared yourself beforehand – it will go much smoother and the wound would have a bigger chance to heal nicely.

 

Hope this one is helpful.

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TUTORIAL: PAINTING DESERT ROCK BASES

Below is a quick five-colour Step-by-step about painting rocky desert bases. I used this method to base a big army of wh40k Tau – be sure to see the end results in GALLERY: WARHAMMER 40,000 TAU lvl 3

I USED:

  • Airbrush,
  • Large flat brush,
  • Regular brush,
  • Black undercoat,
  • German Red Brown (Vallejo) Surface Primer,
  • Earth (Vallejo Game Air),
  • Light Brown (Vallejo Model Air),
  • European Dust (Vallejo Wash),
  • Flayed One Flesh (GW),

 

Desert Rock Bases 2

1  I have undercoated (Airbrush) the entire base with Black paint. To properly undercoat the jagged edges of cork I've added some water to the plack paint and then used a Large flat brush to apply the mixture over this surface.

Desert Rock Bases 3

2  I have airbsrushed German Red Brown onto the entire base. It does not had to be precise, just enought to cover the cork and some bigger flats of sand.

Desert Rock Bases 4

3  Still using airbrush I've applied Earth colour over the surface. This time I ensured that some areas of the cork will be less covered than the others. The process was almost random - just picked some spots to have more paint.

Desert Rock Bases 5

4  Light Brown followed, being airbrushed over the base. Once again I tried to cover some spots better than the others. This time tho I tried not to paint over sand too much, just some delicate puffs of paint.

Desert Rock Bases 6

5  Once the paint was utterly dry I sprayed European Dust over the entire base. The layer had to be thin, just enought to cover the base without leaving any stains.

Desert Rock Bases 7

6  Lastly I used a large flat brush to drybrushed the entire base with Flayed One Flesh. Once it was done I also edged some major edges of the cork with the same colour. Clean black rant of the base followed.

Desert Rock Bases 8

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