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Tag Archives: Step by Step

TUTORIAL: PAINTING CORREGIDOR BASES (BASIC)

In this Step-by-Step tutorial I would like to take you on a spin with some Micro Art Studio’s Corregidor Bases. Guys from MAS did a fantastic job painting this product, but I have my own way which I would like to share with you. Buckle up and let’s get to it!

I USED:

* Regular Brush,

* Stippling Brush,

* Black,

* Tin Bitz / Warplock Bronze (GW)

* Eshin Grey (GW),

* Strong Tone Ink (AP),

* Gun Metal (AP),

* Shining Silver (AP),

* Scorched Brown (GW),

* Calthan Brown (GW),

* Ryza Rust (GW),

* Lugganath Orange (GW),

* Flayed One Flesh (GW),

 

!  You can achieve similar results using different paints as long as you followTutorial's basics. For example Eshin Grey (GW) might be switched for Panzer Dark Grey (Val).

1  I started by applying a layer of Eshin Grey (GW) to all raised areas of the base, over Black undercoat. Just a hint that applying two slightly diluted layers goes much faster and produces a similar result.

2  I then moved to the mesh areas and painted them with Warplock Bronze (GW). Once again this paint might be diluted but this time no need to apply two layers - one will suffice.

3  Once Warplock Bronze dried out, I applied a layer of Gun Metal (AP). For best results I did this with regular brush and using a Flatbrush technique following:

Five Layers Technique – Metal  basis

4  Next Shining Silver (AP) came in. I applied one layer over Gun Metal with regular brush, Flatbrushing.

5  I then applied a wet, thick layer of Strong Tone Ink (AP) over entire base. Once it dried out - I applied another, identical layer. (Picture seem grey'ish - in real life this would look more brown and juicy)

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1  Using either a Stippling brush or a well used up large brush I applied stains of Scorched Brown (GW) over all raised areas. Was carefull not to use too much paint.

2  I then drybrushed edges and some large parts of raised areas using Calthan Brown (GW).

3  Next I Stippled some Ryza Rust (GW) on top of previous layer, ensuring to leave some Calthan Brown visible.

4  Same technique, different paint. I stippled Lugganath Orange (GW) on top of Ryza Rust layer, leaving previous layer visible on the sides of the new one.

!  From this layer onward I usually paint over both raised and mesh areas. For the purpose of this Tutorial I left mesh parts clean, but do not be alarmed if you see pictures of my own bases with a less differentiated colour scheme.

5  Flayed one Flesh (GW) followed. This time I Drybrushed over Lugganath Orange layer and then used regular brush to paint thin lines on the edges.

6  Adding a final touch I painted edges smooth Black to add contrast and keep the paint job clean.

That’s it – you have followed me on my short journey from black undercoat to finished Corregidor Bases. Below you will find some examples of finished Corregidor Bases. Each bunch turns out slightly different from the rest. That’s because a slight difference in surface coverage or layer to layer proportion might result in change of how eye can see these bases. Either way – here they are:

Nazroth

TUTORIAL: PAINTING SKIN (BASIC)

Painting skin – nightmare for some, EZ for others. Back in the days I’ve struggled with a proper skin tone, my miniatures turning out too dark, or skin being overall flat and uninterresting. Practicing ‘Five Layers Technique‘ for many years, led me to some realisations and now I am able to present to you my ultimate way of basic skin painting.

I USED:

* Regular Brush,

* Bugmans Glow (GW),

* Dwarf Flesh (GW),

* Flesh (Val AIR),

* Strong Tone Ink (AP),

* Soft Tone Ink (AP),

* Pale Flesh (Val),

!  You can achieve similar results using different paints and avoiding mixes, as long as you follow Five Layers Technique basics. For example Bugmans Glow (GW) might be switched for Tanned Flesh (AP) or Tan (Vallejo).

!  You can start by applying first layer on any surface. This method does not require any special preparation, like re-painting surface to primer black etc.

1  I started by applying an underlayer of Bugmans Glow paint over any surface destined to become skin. This layer might be a bit messy and is not meant to be smooth, only to cover entire surface. For this particular layer I encourage thinning the paint a bit to help it flow into recesses.

2  Next I applied a main layer of Dwarf Flesh. This time I tried to keep paint from flowing into recesses and made sure that it will cover all big flat areas.

3  I then applied a layer made of a 1:1 mix of Dwarf Flesh and Flesh over all raised areas. This is suposed to be the first highligh and provides a difference in skin tones over the model. Don't worry if some piant flows into recesses, just try to avoid covering everything with it.

4  Here came the flood of wash. I applied a 1:1 mix of Army Painter's Strong Tone Ink with Soft Tone Ink. As usual I didn't bother to be subtle about it.

5  Once dried, I highlighted skin with a 1:1 mix of Elf Skintone and Pale Flesh. This usually is the final highlight and is meant to POP the skin.

!  If I was to enchance skin a bit and move forward from this point, I would add points of focus with lines and dots of Pale Flesh. Some deeper spots can also be in-lined with Flesh Tone or some brown-ish wash to build contrast but that's for another article.

Nazroth

TUTORIAL: PAINTING BROWN MILITARY COATS

How about I show you a technique to paint brown military coats like a pro in a way so simple that it’ll make you wander why haven’t you painted like that before? Below is a simple Step-by-step tutorial on how to achieve awesome tattered and used up leather brown coat effect in just few simple steps.

First some home brewed theory.

Stippling: A technique of creating texture out of dozens of tiny dots of paint. Easiest way to achieve this is to use a Stippling Brush (round head, tip cut off – flat surface instead, resilient hair).

Blending: A technique of gently intermingling two or more colors to create a gradual transition or to soften lines. Below I will demonstrate a rather crude version of it.

I USED:

* Stippling Brush (GW),

* Regular Brush,

* Olive Drab (Vallejo AIR),

* Pallid Wych Flesh (GW),

* Strong Tone Ink (AP),

1  You can start painting this on any dark surface, but for good result I recommend to prepare the surface, by following steps 1 to 3 of Painting 'Infinity' Black Tutorial. This will transition into a complex and interresting surface to work on. On a bright side neither these nor following layers require precision and are really fast to paint.

TUTORIAL: PAINTING ‘INFINITY’ BLACK

2  Time to stipple. I used a Stippling brush and Pallid Wych Flesh paint. I left the excess paint on the palette and randomly applied some dots onto the coat.

3  Next I mixed Olive Drab 1:1 with Strong Tone Ink and applied it all over the coat. This is the crude version of blending I mentioned earlier. It has not much to do with actual blending technique, except it changes the color and actually 'blends'.

4  Wash comes last. I applied a strong, wet layer of Strong Tone Ink all over the coat. Once dry - paint job is done.

!  This might be the end to it, but if you preffer to take your paint job to a higher level you can for example 'edge' the coat with a brighter brown/leathery colour. From now on you have a great looking base to add detail to and it was achieved in no time.

TUTORIAL: PAINTING EDGES

 

Nazroth

TUTORIAL: DIY INFINITY CAMO MARKERS

In this article I would like to present to you an easy way to prepare and then paint your own Camo Markers for Infinity the Game.

I USED:

  • PCV
  • Ruler
  • Pencil
  • Hobby Knife
  • 25mm Bases

 

PREPARATION:

Obviously, the preparation process was pretty simple. Using a ruler, pencil and hobby knife I first drawn and then cut  five 25x47mm rectangles made of PCV. I then glued them on top of 25mm round bases. At this point Camo Markers were ready to get painted.

PAINTING:

1  First step was to undercoat entire Camo Markers with Vallejo's Desert Tan.

2  Next I used a piece of synthetic hair holder as a stencil and airbrushed Vallejo Light Brown over the Markers.

3  Then I switched to Vallejo Earth and airbrushed it over the markers using a piece of net that I got patatoes in. This net should be easily obtainable in every grocery store and makes for a really cool stencil.

4  I then got back to hair holder stencil and airbrushed a layer of Vallejo Light Grey Green.

5  Next I airbrushed points of Vallejo Dark Flesh.

6  Some wet stippling went next. First I applied clumsy dots of Vallejo German Red Brown, then did the same with Games Workshop Pallid Wych Flesh. Afterwards I used Pallid Wych Flesh to mark edges of the markers and provide number to distinguish them from one another on the gaming board.

7  Basing came last. I used Games Workshop Agrellan Earth and Agrellan Badland, then drybrushed them with Karak Stone and Flayed One Flesh. Work done.

Nazroth

TUTORIAL: PAINTING ‘INFINITY’ BLACK

There’s probably as many recipes for painting black as there are painters all over the globe. On top of that there are many diffetrent  techniques to choose from. Painting a lot of detailed Infinity the Game miniatures, I have found one that works best for me. Today I would like to present to you a ‘Five Layers Technique‘ based colour scheme that I myself use.

First of all some home brewed theory. Just like most colours – Black looks great when highlighted. Black surfaces make good impression, when we are able to see different overlaping layers and how colour works with natural curves and detail. For this purpose I always use grey to highlight and texturize black. This leads to black effectively turning grey in the end, so I usually wash it with black ink/wash to deepen the ‘blackness’ in recesses and darken flat surfaces. That in turn lessens the highlights and flattens the entire impression. Here’s where I figured to follow wash with an edge of white’ish colour to produce strong contrast and ‘pop’ the blackness.

I USED:

* Chaos Black Undercoat (GW),

* Skavenblight Dinge (GW),

* Fenrisian Grey (GW),

* Oallid Wych Flesh (GW),

* Dark Tone Ink (AP),

!  Important note: For this technique you don't need to re-paint entire surface with pure black. I use it on different, mixed colours - usually being previously airbrushed all over the miniature.

1  First I covered the entire target surface with Skavenblight Dinge. To fasten and ease the process I added a bit of watter to the paint. No need to cover everything with a strong layer - just smoother what's undeneath it with a nice dark grey.

2  Then I made some random strokes with Fenrisian Grey. Once again I dilluted the paint a bit, to make it more transparent. This layer provides texture and some irregularities to all the flat surfaces.

3  I then edged with Pallid Wych Flesh. I tend to edge only the natural sharp edges and some easy accessible spots. the most important are the ones on top of the surface I paint. Added some random scratches here and there too.

4  I then washed the entire thing black with AP's Dark tone Ink. (no picture)

5  Finally I edged once again with Pallid Wych Flesh. Added some more scratches. Job done.

That is the entire secret behing my Painting ‘Infinity’ Black technique. Fast and easy. Sure, no perfectly smooth transitions, no none metallic metal, but still a very rewarding result. With a bit of imagination and practice – this might be used as a perfect starting point for a much more complicated paint job. Hope it works for you.

Nazroth

TUTORIAL: MODELLING COBBLESTONE BASES

In this easy, step-by-step tutorial I’m going to show you how to create a Cobblestone Base in a what is probably the fastest and simplest way ever.

I USED:

  • Wallpaper*,
  • Basing Glue,
  • Flat (used up) Brush,
  • Hobby Knife,

*Just find a suitable one at a local builder’s store.

1  I started by covering entire base with Basing Glue.

2  I then cut off a piece of the wallpaper to be slightly larger then the base itself.

3  Next I glued the piece onto the base, turned the base upside down and cut off the excess of the wallpaper with a Hobby Knife.

4  Last step was to smoother the edges with a slightly moisted fingertip.

Now you see how insanely fast and easy this was. For the purpose of this tutorial I made just this simple base, but once you get your hands on a proper wallpaper, options are limitless. You can use it to texturize bases and terrain, add more detail or even mix different types of texture.

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Nazroth

TUTORIAL: MODELLING OVERGROWN BASES

Today I’m going to reveal one of my dearest secrets: how Super Glue and Basing Glue can be used to make some fantastic, crazy, awesome stuff! I have invented it by accident when I was a kid, used it since and love it for both simplicity and awesome texture effect. In this easy, step-by-step tutorial I will show you how to produce your own Overgrown Bases!

I USED:

  • Super Glue,
  • Basing Glue,
  • Birch-tree seeds*
  • Bitz of dried out grapes**
  • Random small balls***

*I purchased a huge pack of these for approximately 1€,

**Once you eat up all the goodie goodie grapes, you have like a bunch of wooden leftovers. Once dried out these are awesome bor basing miniatures.

***I use either Air Soft Gun ammuniton, or for smaller calliber moist absorber balls obtainable with every new pair of shoes. Just ask your gf to dig out one of her shoeboxes, there should be a small paper bag filled with tiny, translucent balls in it.

1  I started by applying basing glue all over the base. No need to make it smooth, just enough not to leave any empty spaces.

2  I then dropped some of the tiny balls and Birch-tree seeds over the wet glue.

3  Here's where MAGIC begun. I covered entire base with Super Glue and watched as it was warped before my eyes in a matter of merely seconds.

4  Before it dried out I added some pieces of dry grape vines to make it look like some strange, alien mushrooms, or plants. I then covered additional stuff with more Super Glue to harden it.

5  Last step was to leave entire thing to dry out. Usually it takes around five minutes for a base to get dry, but it might take a bit longer, depending on how much basing glue is used.

6  The final step was to undercoat dried out base with Chaos Black spray... then do a quick paint job with random colours.

Now seriously – tell my that’s not an awesome texture effect XD This is like ultra-fast, mega-cool way of using two glues to create utter chaos on any surface. Chaos mutations, warped stuff, Zerg creep, alien planet foliage, jungle floor, faerie glade, name it – then glue+glue it 😉

Do not hesitate to let me know and send some pictures via FACEBOOK if you ever use the tutorial. I will be happy to see how it turned out 😉

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Nazroth

TUTORIAL: MODELLING CAVE BASES

In this easy, step-by-step tutorial I’m going to show you how to create a Cave Base.

I USED:

  • Super Glue,
  • Basing Glue,
  • Toothpicks and nail sticks*
  • Small gravel stones**
  • Games Workshop Texture Paints,

*Ask your GF if you don’t know where to obtain the latter.

**Search in IKEA or any home/garden store. A lifetime stockpile of these is less than 5€.

 

1  I started by cutting off the tips of both toothpicks and nail sticks. These would do for fine stalagmites later on.

2  I then applied couple of drops of basing glue onto the base. Before it dried out I applied Super Glue on it and mounted stalagmites, tip upwards, on the mix.

3  Next I covered entire stalagmites with basing glue and left it to dry. The excess glue, moved by the power of gravity, was drawn downwards, where it rested around the base of the stalagmites, making them look smooth and natural.

4  Using the previous technique I applied some basing glue in few spots and then Super Glue'ed some gravel over it. You can actually glue any type of stuff with this - like skulls, some pieces of armour etc.

5  I then covered antire surface, except for any fillers, with Games Workshop's texture paints. I used a mix of Agrellan Earth and Agrellan Badland for this tutorial, but actually any of the range will do - as long as you would like to undercoat the base afterwards.

6  The final step was to undercoat dried out base with Chaos Black spray...

Now, what’s left is just to paint the bases with your preferable colour scheme. I chose to go red/copper style similar to ‘the Wave’ and watered some spots with clear resin, but the number of potential colour schemes is unlimited.

If you ever use the tutorial – be sure to let me know and send some pictures via FACEBOOK. I will be happy to see how it turned out 😉

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Nazroth

TUTORIAL: EXPLODING MINIATURES

In this easy, step-by-step tutorial I’m going to show you how to create an ‘explosion from inside’ effect on the miniatures. Personally I use this method to create exploding mines or in this case Crazy Koalas from Infinity the game, but the number of potential uses is limited only by your imagination. That being said, buckle up and have a nice ride.

I USED:

  • Super Glue,
  • Green Stuff,
  • Modelling Tools,
  • Two ‘Crazy Koala’ miniatures,

1  I started with cutting the miniature diagonally in two. I didn't thought too much about where to cut, just about the waist, leaving one hand attached to the lower part of the body.

2  I then rolled some Green Stuff and glued it onto the lower body part.

3  Next I applied a small drop of Super Glue onto the Green Stuff and attached the upper body part to it.

4  Then I squeezed both part, forcing the Green Stuff out.

5  Next I gently pulled both body parts away, creating a gap with rended Green Stuff inbetween the parts.

6  Next I rolled another piece of Green Stuff and repeated the technique, adding head to the miniature.

7  After pulling the head away I used a modelling tool to stretch the excess Green Stuff to the sides.

8  I also applied Super Glue onto the Green Stuff to fasten it's hardening.

The end result is below:

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Nazroth

TUTORIAL: DIY CANDLES

Winter is already here thus I thought about warming the theme a bit by introducing a tutorial of how to make candles for 28-30mm scale. Why produce such things? In miniatures hobby candles are rare bitz among what you get in the sets designed by main miniature producers. Even if a set contains some, their number is scarce. Why not make your own and adorn bases, miniatures and even scenery with them? Be it Age of Sigmar, Mordheim, Warhammer 40,000 or just a fantasy dungeon – candles will provide mood to both miniatures and scenery. Below is a quick and easy step-by-step of how to produce your own 28-30mm scale candles. Enjoy…

I USED:

  • Super Glue,
  • Basing Glue,
  • Toothpicks,
  • Tissue,
  • Thin Wire,
  • Modelling Tools,

1  I started with preparation of candles-to-be by cutting toothpicks into small pieces. I tried to keep all of them between 5-10mm long, to better fit into the 28-30mm fantasy scale. Once I had couple pieces done I choose some of them and drilled small holes from one side. These will be used later to hold candlewicks.

2  Next I glued the candles onto the base. In case of scenery I usually drill small holes to hold the candles in place or just glue them as it is if I'm sure the scenery won't require enchanced durability. For the purpose of this tutorial I drilled some holes in an old square Warhammer base.

3  I then glued small pieces of wire into the holes, to look like candlewicks.

4  Then came the time to cover the candles with a basing glue, applying additional glue around the base of each candle to create an effect of spilled wax.

5  Next step was to prepare couple of small flames, using a wet paper tissue. I just rolled, then cut it into small pieces, which I then rolled once again.

6  The flames where then glued to the candles with super glue and once in place - covered with glue to harden entirely.

7  I left the stuff to dry, then painted it with mix of creme and white, washed the candlewicks and flames with some washes.

The end result will look more or less like this:

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