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Tag Archives: Step by Step

Tutorial: Painting Infinity Daofei Camo

Welcome to Painting Infinity Daofei Camo tutorial. Here I will take you on a Step-by-step trip through the process of painting Daofei Camo the same way as seen at: Gallery: Yu-Jing.

Before we start, some notes:

* This one requires no Airbrush.
* For better visibility there are two different sizes of the pattern.
* What works for me might not necessarily work for you.

I used:

  • Bastion Grey (P3),
  • Pale Wych Flesh (GW),
  • Panzer Dark Grey (Val, air),
  • Interior Green (Val, air),

Let’s begin!

*  Start by applying a smooth layer of P3 Bastion Grey.

*  Create basic pattern, applying Pale Wych Flesh spots leaving similar sized gaps inbetween .

*  Next apply Panzer Dark Grey spots between Pale Wych Flesh, so that every new spot touches at least one from the previous layer.

*  Follow up with a third layer of pattern, using Interior Green and following the same rules. Be sure to leave some spots of Bastion Grey visible.

*  Lastly add tiny spots of Panzer Dark Grey on top of Pale Wych Flesh pattern. Some might touch the edges.

That’s it, you have painted the pattern. Congrats! Be sure to visit Infinity Yu-Jing gallery for further inspiration if need be 😉


Nazroth

TUTORIAL: PAINTING “GUIJIA” part 3 TACTICAL ROCK

Welcome to Painting “Guijia” tutorial. Here I will take you on a Step-by-step trip through almost entire process of painting Infinity the Game “Guijia” Special Project. This is part 3 focused on Black Under Armour.

Before we start, some notes:

* Visit Tutorial: Painting “Guijia” part 2 Black Mesh to see how it got to this point.
* This one requires an Airbrush.
* Paint’s are to be properly thinned before airbrush application.
* As usual, please take note that what works for me might not necessarily work for you.

Right now you should be after  Tutorial: Painting “Guijia” part 2 Black Mesh with a miniature in this state:

*  Start by masking the Guijia's leg. I used a piece of foil and masking tape to cover areas that I didn;t wanted to get dirty. Then manually applu a layer of Val. Prussian Blue, avoiding areas of Black Mesh.

*  Next airbrush a layer of Light Sea Blue, focusing on the most exposed areas of armour.

*  Next, airbrush a mix of Val. Light Sea Blue with a bit of Val. White focusing on middle areas, creating a transition from previous layer.

*  Next highlight the edges with GW Pale Wych Flesh.

*  To seal Blue, wash it with thinned down GW Guilliman Blue Glaze. You can see that I have also painted some battle damage. I did it using Val. Cavalry Brown, underlined with Val. Off White.

I leave adding Black Under Armour and additional details to you. Now to the Sword… To be honest, because of strong light, pictures taken during this one’s painting process did not captured how the sword looked like and I really don’t like how they turned out. That being said – I will still show you the Sword and name the paints used, but instead of a Step-by-step tutorial, let’s just call it a BONUS.

BONUS:

List of paints:
Val. Warlord Purple,
Val. Off white,
GW. Pale Wych Flesh,
AP. Purple Tone Ink,

I leave the base and additional detail to you. Congratulations, you have painted a Guijia 🙂

Was this tutorial helpful? Did you enjoyed it? Leave me a comment 😉

Nazroth

TUTORIAL: PAINTING “GUIJIA” part 2 BLACK MESH

Welcome to Painting “Guijia” tutorial. Here I will take you on a Step-by-step trip through almost entire process of painting Infinity the Game “Guijia” Special Project. This is part 2 focused on Black Under Armour.

Before we start, some notes:

* Visit Painting “Guijia” tutorial part 1 to see how it got to this point.
* This isn’t a real deal ‘Non Metallic Metal’ – just a hibrid.
* As usual, please take note that what works for me might not necessarily work for you.

Assuming the Tutorial: Painting “Guijia” part 1 Orange Armour is where we left off, here’s the miniature in it’s current state:

*  This is the most difficult part of the process. Mix Val. Black (air) 1:5 with Val. Panzer Dark Grey (air) and apply it to everything, that is not external armour plates and blade. The difficult part is to not mess up all these sexy Orange-to-Yellow armour plates. If you do, you can try out Erasing Bloopers following one of my tutorials, still the airbrushed nature of the layer will make it extremely difficult.

TUTORIAL: ERASING BLOOPERS

*  Next apply a watered down GW Fenrisian Grey over black areas. It is important not to fill any recesses. You can apply more than one thin layer, overlaping each other and even leave some irregularities - this will work to the overall paint job's advantage.

*  Next, higlight edges with GW Pale Wych Flesh. This time no thinning down the paint. You can imitate some scratches, reflexions etc.

*  Now wash it all with a thinned down Army Painter Dark Tone Ink. Once again be extra carefuul not to paint over finished armour plates.

*  Now it's time to make it POP! Using GW Pale Wych Flesh and Val. Off White, highlight the edges and create some points of focus, scratches, reflections etc.

Congratulations! By following these five steps you should now have most of the work behind you. Next week: Tactical Rock and bonus Sword…

Nazroth

TUTORIAL: PAINTING “GUIJIA” part 1 ORANGE ARMOUR

Welcome to Painting “Guijia” tutorial. Here I will take you on a Step-by-step trip through almost entire process of painting Infinity the Game “Guijia” Special Project. This is part 1 focused on Orange/Yellow Armour.

Before we start, some notes:
* This one requires an Airbrush.
* Paints are to be properly thinned before airbrush application.
* As usual, please take note that what works for me might not necessarily work for you.

Allright! Undercoat the miniature with black, check your gear and let’s do this!

*  Start with a solid layer of airbrushed Val. Orange Brown. I applied mine in three delicate, overlaping layers. I went around the miniature, with top and bottom, focusing on Armour Plates areas.

*  Next, airbrush Val. Scrofulous Brown. Mostly from the top and up to 45* degree, focusing on the most exposed areas. You can start building transitions to previous layer avoiding shadowed areas. 

*  I forgot to take a picture of this layer. That's on me. Fortunatelly the result can be seen on the next picture. The layer is a mix of Val. Scrofulous Brown and Val. Off White, applied from top onto the center of all exposed areas.

*  Next, outline all the edges with Val. Ice Yellow

*  Lastly, underline armour plates with Army Painter Soft Tone Ink. I also used strongly dilluted Soft Tone to apply some more shadow in certain 'over the edge' areas.

If it all sounds easy it’s because it actually is. The real challenge comes with next step, but that’s for next week’s tutorial…

Nazroth

TUTORIAL: MODELLING TOXIC SLUDGE BASES

In this easy, step-by-step tutorial I’m going to show you how to create a Toxic Sludge Base. I designed these bases for Warhammer 40,000 Death Guuard Plague Marines.

I USED:

  • Basing Glue,
  • Shoe moist absorbers**
  • Vallejo Interior Green,
  • Vallejo Duuck Egg Green,
  • Vallejo Light Livery Green,

**Where I’m from there’s a small paper bag filled with moist absorbsion balls in every shoe box. If you can’t get that, just use some grains or make small balls out of green stuff or modeling clay.

*  I started by covering entire base with a layer of basing glue.

*  I then put couple of tiny balls onto the base, creating 'buubbles' and let it all dry.

*  Once dry, I covered are around the bubbles with another layer of basing glue.

*  I let it all dry for about an hour, then undercoated entire base black.

*  I then airbrushed a layer of Vallejo Interior Green over entire base.

*  Next I airbrushed a layer of Duck Egg Green concentrating on bubbles and surrounding areas.

*  Last thing to do was to airbrush two layers of Light Livery Green over entire bases and paint the sides black.

 

Nazroth

TUTORIAL: MODELLING SEED-EMBRYO

In this easy, step-by-step tutorial I’m going to show you how to create a Seed-Embryo marker, same as from Infinity SHASVASTII lvl 5 ‘Witness Me!’ gallery.

I USED:

  • Super Glue,
  • Basing Glue,
  • Office Clips,
  • Toothpicks,
  • Small balls (airsoft gun ammo)
  • Hobby Cutters & Hobby Tweezers,

*  I started by straightening two office clips, leaving both ends curved.

*  I then wraped them around one another and once done, cut a piece with hobby cutters.

*  Next I applied a drop of basing glue, followed by a drop of super glue onto a base.

*  Then I glued wraped up office clip piece on top of the super glue spot.

*  Airsoft gun ammo ball followed, on top of the office clip piece. First a drop of super glue, then basing glue, then I slightly dipped the ball in super glue and glued it on.

*  Lastly I modelled three growth pieces on top of the ball, applying a small dose of basing glue with a tootpick, then covering it with super glue.

And that’s it! The Seed-Embryo markers ready in few minutes. Just make sure you let them dry before painting – I recommend about 4 hours for super glue – basing glue mix to fully dry out and produce awesome texture.


Do you like this tutorial? Have you made your own Seed-Embryo markers? Be sure to let me know in the commets below!

Nazroth

TUTORIAL: MODELLING LUSH BASES

In this easy, step-by-step tutorial I’m going to show you how to create a Lush Base. I designed these bases to fit Infinity the Game Tohaa ‘tactical rocks’ – you can see how it turned out at Infinity TOHAA ‘Witness Me!’ gallery.

I USED:

  • Super Glue,
  • Basing Glue,
  • Stirland Battlemire (GW texture paint),
  • Paint Forge Tufts,
  • Random Tufts,
  • Dried out Grape branch,

*  I started by separating Grape mounts from the dried out Grape branch. Being rather soft, their topf have been removed to improove durability and shape.

*  I then applied a drop of basing glue onto the base, followed up shortly by another drop - this time super glue.

*  Before mixed glue drop was able to dry out I've planted Grape mount on top of it, creating strange looking plant.

*  Once glue dried up I've painted the bases following choosen colour scheme (see below). I then added some texture on top of them with Stirland Battlemire texture paint.

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*  Last step was to apply regular tufts. I used some noname tufts in large numbers filling most of the flat areas. Job done.

BONUS COLOUR RECIPE:

:

Black Undercoat,

Stirland Battlemire (GW), texture

Karak Stone (GW), stones & plants

Flayed One Flesh (GW), flatbrush stones & plants

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP), wash

Nazroth

TUTORIAL: MODELLING LAVA BASES

In this easy, step-by-step tutorial I’m going to show you how to create and paint a Lava Bases. I used these bases for Infinity the Game Combined Army – you can see how it turned out at Infinity COMBINED ARMY ‘Witness Me!’ gallery.

I USED:

  • Super Glue,
  • Basing Glue,
  • Cork,
  • Shoe moist absorbers**

**Where I’m from there’s a small paper bag filled with moist absorbsion balls in every shoe box. If you can’t get that, just use some grains or make small balls out of green stuff or even modeling clay.

*  I started by breaking a piece of Cork into smaller bitz.

*  I then applied Super Glue over the bases in a random pattern. No need to be precise here.

*  Pieces of Cork followed to form 'volcanic rocks' and future spots for the miniatures to be mounted on.

*  Once Super Glue dried out I covered entire base with Basing Glue.

*  I then dropped tiny balls (shoe moist absorbers) oon top of the Basing Glue, between 'volcanic rocks' to create an effect boiling lava bubbles.

*  Next I applied Basing Glue over the bubbles.

BONUS PAINTING STEP-BY-STEP:

:

*  Black Undercoat.

*  Mahogany (Val) airbrushed all over the base.

*  Gorthror Brown (GW) drybrush over the Rocks.

*  Gory Red (Val) airbrushed over Lava.

*  Scrofulous Brown (Val) airbrushed over Lava.

*  Scrofulous Brown (Val) + White airbrushed over Lava.

*  Black spots added around Rocks

*  Scrofulous Brown (Val) airbrushed over Black spots.

*  Lamenters Yellow (GW) airbrushed over Lava.

*  Hot Orange (Val) spots airbrushed over Black spots, White airbrushed over bubbles.

*  Scrofulous Brown (Val) + Black, then pure Black glaze applied oved the Rocks.

*  Gloss Varnish applied over Lava.

 

 

 

Nazroth

TUTORIAL: PAINTING CORREGIDOR BASES (BASIC)

In this Step-by-Step tutorial I would like to take you on a spin with some Micro Art Studio’s Corregidor Bases. Guys from MAS did a fantastic job painting this product, but I have my own way which I would like to share with you. Buckle up and let’s get to it!

I USED:

* Regular Brush,

* Stippling Brush,

* Black,

* Tin Bitz / Warplock Bronze (GW)

* Eshin Grey (GW),

* Strong Tone Ink (AP),

* Gun Metal (AP),

* Shining Silver (AP),

* Scorched Brown (GW),

* Calthan Brown (GW),

* Ryza Rust (GW),

* Lugganath Orange (GW),

* Flayed One Flesh (GW),

 

!  You can achieve similar results using different paints as long as you followTutorial's basics. For example Eshin Grey (GW) might be switched for Panzer Dark Grey (Val).

1  I started by applying a layer of Eshin Grey (GW) to  all raised areas of the base, over Black undercoat. Just a hint that applying two slightly diluted layers goes much faster and produces a similar result.

2  I then moved to the mesh areas and painted them with Warplock Bronze (GW). Once again this paint might be diluted but this time no need to apply two layers - one will suffice.

3  Once Warplock Bronze dried out, I applied a layer of Gun Metal (AP). For best results I did this with regular brush and using a Flatbrush technique following:

Five Layers Technique – Metal  basis

4  Next Shining Silver (AP) came in. I applied one layer over Gun Metal with regular brush, Flatbrushing.

5  I then applied a wet, thick layer of Strong Tone Ink (AP) over entire base. Once it dried out - I applied another, identical layer. (Picture seem grey'ish - in real life this would look more brown and juicy)

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1  Using either a Stippling brush or a well used up large brush I applied stains of Scorched Brown (GW) over all raised areas. Was carefull not to use too much paint.

2  I then drybrushed edges and some large parts of raised areas using Calthan Brown (GW).

3  Next I Stippled some Ryza Rust (GW) on top of previous layer, ensuring to leave some Calthan Brown visible.

4  Same technique, different paint. I stippled Lugganath Orange (GW) on top of Ryza Rust layer, leaving previous layer visible on the sides of the new one.

!  From this layer onward I usually paint over both raised and mesh areas. For the purpose of this Tutorial I left mesh parts clean, but do not be alarmed if you see pictures of my own bases with a less differentiated colour scheme.

5  Flayed one Flesh (GW) followed. This time I Drybrushed over Lugganath Orange layer and then used regular brush to paint thin lines on the edges.

6  Adding a final touch I painted edges smooth Black to add contrast and keep the paint job clean.

That’s it – you have followed me on my short journey from black undercoat to finished Corregidor Bases. Below you will find some examples of finished Corregidor Bases. Each bunch turns out slightly different from the rest. That’s because a slight difference in surface coverage or layer to layer proportion might result in change of how eye can see these bases. Either way – here they are:

Nazroth

TUTORIAL: PAINTING SKIN (BASIC)

Painting skin – nightmare for some, EZ for others. Back in the days I’ve struggled with a proper skin tone, my miniatures turning out too dark, or skin being overall flat and uninterresting. Practicing ‘Five Layers Technique‘ for many years, led me to some realisations and now I am able to present to you my ultimate way of basic skin painting.

I USED:

* Regular Brush,

* Bugmans Glow (GW),

* Dwarf Flesh (GW),

* Flesh (Val AIR),

* Strong Tone Ink (AP),

* Soft Tone Ink (AP),

* Pale Flesh (Val),

!  You can achieve similar results using different paints and avoiding mixes, as long as you follow Five Layers Technique basics. For example Bugmans Glow (GW) might be switched for Tanned Flesh (AP) or Tan (Vallejo).

!  You can start by applying first layer on any surface. This method does not require any special preparation, like re-painting surface to primer black etc.

1  I started by applying an underlayer of Bugmans Glow paint over any surface destined to become skin. This layer might be a bit messy and is not meant to be smooth, only to cover entire surface. For this particular layer I encourage thinning the paint a bit to help it flow into recesses.

2  Next I applied a main layer of Dwarf Flesh. This time I tried to keep paint from flowing into recesses and made sure that it will cover all big flat areas.

3  I then applied a layer made of a 1:1 mix of Dwarf Flesh and Flesh over all raised areas. This is suposed to be the first highligh and provides a difference in skin tones over the model. Don't worry if some piant flows into recesses, just try to avoid covering everything with it. 

4  Here came the flood of wash. I applied a 1:1 mix of Army Painter's Strong Tone Ink with Soft Tone Ink. As usual I didn't bother to be subtle about it.

5  Once dried, I highlighted skin with a 1:1 mix of Elf Skintone and Pale Flesh. This usually is the final highlight and is meant to POP the skin.

!  If I was to enchance skin a bit and move forward from this point, I would add points of focus with lines and dots of Pale Flesh. Some deeper spots can also be in-lined with Flesh Tone or some brown-ish wash to build contrast but that's for another article.

Nazroth
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