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TUTORIAL: PAINTING WHITE

Two weeks ago I was participating in a tournament of Infinity the Game. Somewhere between games I chated with fellow hobbyist and as the topic moved to miniatures he asked me about my Infinity Corregidor’s white. What made him curious was how solid and actually ‘white’ that colour was. I started explaining and before I finished – a group of players was standing around and listening to my recipe. I then realised that a lot of painters struggle with white as it is not an easy colour to achieve. A common mistake is to paint layer after layer of pure white as usually all the irregularities made with first layer will still be visible.

So here’s what I have observed about white paint: White has a lot of pigment which is the reason for building irregularities on the painted surface. These irregularities lead to a formation of strong white points in contrast with all the area where white is not so strong at first. It does not matter how many layers we provide as a difference between these two will be visible for long after the painted surface looses all the detail. So I figured that in order to build a nice and strong white colour there should be a small number of thin layers. But how to achieve a perfect whiteness with only few layers? The answer to that question is below…

Hacker 1

I USED:

* Chaos Black Undercoat (GW),

* Pallid Wych Flesh (GW),

* White,

* Matt Varnish (AP),

white 1

1  I applied Pallid Wych Flesh (GW) onto the surface. This layer is usually dirty and full of smudges. Black undercoat is also visible undernath it but I don't care. The key factor is to keep this layer thin so I blurredany accumulated paint with my brush adding a tiny bit of water (I used a Citadel Basecoat brush to be precise).

white 3

2  Next in line was a 1/1 mix of Pallid Wych Flesh (GW) and White. Once again I tried to keep the paint thin without adding any water. Just used the tip of the brush to clear any irregularities of paint. This layer has a lot of white's pigment, further enchanced by Pallid Wych Flesh so it should be easy to obtain a solid colour at this point - still not 'white' tho.

white 4

3  Third layer follows the same rules as the first one. I kept a thin layer of pure white mixed with a tiny bit of water.

white 5

!  You can repeat this layer to make sure the whiteness is 'perfect' before proceeding to the next one...

4  To further smoothe the surface I used Matt Varnish. It solidified the 'whiteness' of my layers but I had to be very careful due to Varnish's tendention of drawing small hair and dust fragments. After applying this layer I put the miniature into a small plastic box so that no dusty trash will land on it while it dries out.

white 6

That’s it – that’s the whole secret of pure and strong white.

I had a lot of difficulities taking proper pictures so please treat these pics as not entirely true – I have these pieces before me and there’s a lot of colour difference between balls 1st to 4th, and some difference in smoothness between 4th and 5th. Still you now know the recipe and it should work for you just as it works for me 🙂

white 7

 

Zapisz

Nazroth

TUTORIAL: PAINTING MARBLE

Below is a quick and easy technique of painting marble using a limited palette of paints.

Introduction: Painting marble using this method does not require precision nor a variety of unusual skills. It is quite effective and bereft of any extensive cons. The pros of this technique are as follows:

– fast,
– simple,
– easy to learn,
– cheap*

* assuming you already have an airbrush or spray gun – if not, I have posted a solution in the end of the article.

marmur 9

I USED:

* Chaos Black Undercoat (GW),
* German Red Brown (Vallejo Surface Primer)

!  Doombull Brown (GW) or Dark Flesh (GW) and actually any dark brown will do.

* White (Vallejo Air),
* Dark Tone Ink (AP),
* Strong Tone Ink (AP),
* Soft Tone Ink (AP),
* Gloss Varnish (Vallejo),
* Steel Wool,

1  I undercoated the surface using Black Undercoat (GW),

marmur 1

2  The first proper layer was German Red Brown (Vallejo). I used Airbrush to cover all of the 'marble' surface with it.

marmur 2

3  I took a piece of Steel Wool and made a marble template out of it by pulling and stretching a small piece of it. I used the template and airbrushed all with White.

marmur 3

Here’s an example of how it was done:

x1

4  Using Dark Tone Ink (AP) and thin brush I marked out some major lines of the marble. I also used water to dilute the paint and used the mixture one side of some major lines.

marmur 4

5  Using large brush I made random stains of Strong Tone Ink (AP) and then before it dried I've genlty touched it with piece of paper towel.

marmur 5

6  I washed all using Soft Tone Ink (AP).

marmur 6

7  I built contrast in the recesses using Dark Tone Ink (AP) diluted with a bit of water.

marmur 7

8  Finally I glossed whole surface with Gloss Varnish (Vallejo) to give it a nice shine of polished marble and deepen the colours difference.

marmur 8

ALTERNATIVE METHOD

For those who lack Airbrush: Forget about steel wool, and proceed through steps 1-3 without it. during step 3 apply white paint using brush but before it dries out use a wet toothpick to draw soft, thin lines. You may need to use couple of layers of white in the spots you like it to be strong. Afterwards just follow the tutorial to it’s finale 😉

Hope you like and will use this method. If so – feel invited to post thew link to some pictures here for the benefit of other hobbyists.

Nazroth

COLOUR RECIPES: WARHAMMER 40,000 ORKS ‘GOFF’

Here are some Colour Recipes for Warhammer 40,000 Orks of ‘Goff’ clan from GALLERY: WARHAMMER 40,000 ORKS lvl 4

ORK STORMBOYZ 3
RED armour & weapons:
Black Undercoat,
Sanguine Base (P3),
Skorne Red (P3),
Wild Rider Red (GW),
Wild Rider Red (GW)) + Troll Slayer Orange (GW),
Troll Slayer Orange (GW),
Red Tone Ink (AP),
Troll Slayer Orange (GW),

ORKY ORKS 4
GREEN skin:
Black Undercoat,
Waagh Flesh (GW),
Strong Tone Ink (AP),
Waagh Flesh (GW),
Waagh Flesh (GW) + Sybarite Green (GW),
Waagh Flesh (GW) + Skarsnik Green (GW),
Goblin Green (AP),
Sybarite Green (GW),

BLACK clothes:
Black Undercoat,
Bastion Grey (P3),
Bastion Grey (P3) + Administratum Grey (GW),
Bastion Grey (P3) + Administratum Grey (GW) + Pallid Wych Flesh (GW),
Dark Tone Ink (AP),
Wash for dark vehicles (Vallejo), [inner lining]
Administratum Grey,
Administratum Grey (GW) + Pallid Wych Flesh (GW),

ORK STORMBOYZ 1 BIG
BROWN clothes:
Black Undercoat,
Charred Brown (Vallejo),
Dark Fleshtone (Vallejo),
Dark Fleshtone (Vallejo)) + Dirt (Vallejo),
Dark Fleshtone (Vallejo)) + Dirt (Vallejo) + Bonewhite (Vallejo),
Stron Tone Ink (AP),
Flayed One Flesh (GW),

More pictures can be found at GALLERY: WARHAMMER 40,000 ORKS lvl 4
Nazroth

COLOUR RECIPES: WARHAMMER 40,000 ORKS ‘BAD MOONZ’

Here are some Colour Recipes for Warhammer 40,000 Orks of ‘Bad Moonz’ clan from GALLERY: WARHAMMER 40,000 ORKS lvl 4

ORK FLASH GITZ x1
YELLOW armour & weapons:
Black Undercoat,
Moldy Ochre (P3),
Moldy Ochre (P3),
Moldy Ochre (P3) + Pallid Wych Flesh (GW),
Griffon Sepia (GW),
Lamenters Yellow (GW),
Dorn Yellow (P3),

ORKY ORKS 2
GREEN skin:
Black Undercoat,
Waagh Flesh (GW),
Strong Tone Ink (AP),
Waagh Flesh (GW),
Waagh Flesh (GW) + Sybarite Green (GW),
Waagh Flesh (GW) + Skarsnik Green (GW),
Goblin Green (AP),
Sybarite Green (GW),

ORK FLASH GITZ x5
BROWN clothes:
Black Undercoat,
Charred Brown (Vallejo),
Dark Fleshtone (Vallejo),
Dark Fleshtone (Vallejo)) + Dirt (Vallejo),
Dark Fleshtone (Vallejo)) + Dirt (Vallejo) + Bonewhite (Vallejo),
Stron Tone Ink (AP),
Flayed One Flesh (GW),

More pictures can be found at GALLERY: WARHAMMER 40,000 ORKS lvl 4
Nazroth

TUTORIAL: PAINTING ‘FIVE LAYERS’ METAL

Here is a Step-by-step guide of how to paint metal with ‘Five Layers Technique’.

Introduction: Five Layers Technique is easy to learn, simple and rewarding. You can apply almost any colour with it. It may be used both as an Army Paining method or a groundwork for much more advanced paintjob. I personally use this technique most of the time. To learn more please visit: TUTORIAL: ‘FIVE LAYERS TECHNIQUE’

Colour Recipe:

Black undercoat,
Tin Bitz (GW) / Warplock Bronze (GW) / Blighted Gold (P3)
Boltgun Metal (GW) / Gun Metal (AP)
Mithril Silver (GW) /  Shining Silver (AP)
Devlan Mud (wash GW) / Strong Tone (shade AP)
Mithril Silver (GW) /  Shining Silver (AP)

!   You can exchange particular paint for any substitute as long as you keep colour intensity close.

Basics:

Use Black undercoat. The first layer of metal should be painted Tin Bitz. The paintjob must be as thorough as possible, paint should be delivered into recesses but be sure to keep all the details sharp. You can add some water to ease the process. Next, using Boltgun Metal paint all the protruding and flat areas leaving Tin Bitz visible in recesses and near the edges. Using Mithril Silver paint edges, centres of flat areas and all the bulges. Wash all with Devlan Mud (wash a lot). In the end just edge all with Mithril Silver. You can also paint some small scratches and lines in the middle of flat areas.

This picture shows exactly how layers should overlap each other.

1

Example:

Black undercoat,2

Tin Bitz thorough layer,3

Boltgun Metal (scruffy),4

Mithril Silver bulges, protuberances, flat middles,5

Devlan Mud wash (a lot),6

Dried out Devlan Mud,7

Mithril Silver edges, lines, middles,8

Tut x

You should end up with a quick and easy way of painting metal thath both shines with light reflexes and has a nice overall facture. Hope you enjoyed this tutorial.

Nazroth

COLOUR RECIPES: INFINITY ALEPH

Here are some Colour Recipes for Infinity Aleph from GALLERY: ALEPH lvl 4

Myrmidon

BLACK/GREY outfits & weapons:
Black Undercoat,
Dark Sea Grey (Vallejo) airbrushed,
Medium Sea Grey (Vallejo) airbrushed,
Light Grey (Vallejo) airbrushed,
Pale Grey Blue (Vallejo) airbrushed,
White lining,
Dark Tone Ink (AP)
Administratum Grey lining,
White lining,
Black ‘Wash for dark vehicles’ (Vallejo) filling in cavity lines

WHITE:
Pallid Wych Flesh (GW)
Pallid Wych Flesh (GW) + White
White
Black ‘Wash for dark vehicles’ (Vallejo) filling in cavity lines
Gloss Varnish (GW)

Aleph 7

BASES brown
Black Undercoat,
Gorthor Brown (GW)
Karak Stone (GW)
Karak Stone + Pallid Wych Flesh (GW) soft drybrush
A 50%/50% mix of Strong Tone Ink (AP) + Soft Tone Ink (AP)
Strong Tone Ink filling in cavity lines
Pallid Wych Flesh edging
BASES gray
Black Undercoat,
Eshin Grey (GW)
Administratum Grey (GW) soft drybrush

Aleph 8

Follow to ALEPH’S GALLERY…
Nazroth

COLOUR RECIPES: INFINITY YU JING

Here you can find some Colour Recipes for Yu Jing miniatures from GALLERY: INFINITY YU JING

Yu Jing 7

RED:
Grey Undercoat,
Sanguine Base (P3) + Scarlet Red (Vallejo Model Air)
Scarlet Red + Troll Slayer Orange (GW)

Scarlet Red + Troll Slayer Orange+ White (Vallejo Model Air)
Red Tone Ink (AP) here and there x2
Heroes got lined with a mix of Wazdakka Red (GW)Lugganath Orange (GW)

WEAPONS:
Eshin Grey (GW)
Warpfiend Grey (GW)
Warpfiend Grey + Skeleton Bone (AP)

Warpfiend Grey + Skeleton Bone+ White applied from the top
A 50%/50% mix of Strong Tone Ink (AP) + Soft Tone Ink (AP)

BLUE:
Teclis Blue (GW)
Lothern Blue (GW)
Baharroth Blue (GW) fat middle lines
Blue Horror (GW) thin middle lines

PANTS:
Dheneb Stone (GW) foundation
Dheneb Stone + Skeleton Bone (AP)
Dheneb Stone + Skeleton Bone + White
A 50%/50% mix of Strong Tone Ink (AP) + Soft Tone Ink (AP)
Heroes got lined with a mix of Skeleton Bone and Flayed One Flesh (GW)

yu jing wip 2

yu jing wip 3

yu jing wip 5

yu jing wip 6

Yu Jing 9

Nazroth

TUTORIAL: PAINTING NOMAD RED ARMOUR

Here is a Step-by-step guide of how to paint Infinity Nomad Red Armour – Scar_hand Painting’s style 🙂

A complete Recipee used to paint my Infinity Nomads may be found in COLOUR RECIPEES: INFINITY NOMADS. You can also find some additional pictures in the NOMADS: CORREGIDOR lvl 4,5 Gallery.

Colour Recipe:

* GW Standard Brush,
* Tamiya Modeling Brush HG,
* AP Wargamer: The Psycho,
* GW Chaos Black Undercoat,
* GW Mechrite Red, (When this one runs out i’ll switch to P3 Formula ‘Sanguine Base’ instead),
* GW Wazdakka Red,
* AP Skeleton Bone,
* White,
* AP Strong Tone Ink,
* AP Red Tone Ink,

1  I used Chaos Black spray to undercoat the model. I usually do this by applying eight layers of undercoat from eight different angles (four at the front and four at the back of the model, each at the same 45* angle with one directed up, one down, one left and one right side of the model).

2  The first layer of Red was made with Standard Brush and Mechrite Red. I tried not to fill the recesses too much and to cover all buldes smoothly.

red 1

3  I switched to Tamiya Modeling Brush and applied Wazdakka Red to all bulges and flat surfaces of the armour, leaving cavities Mechrite Red'ed. This madethe armour look more smooth and ready to be highlighted.

red 2

4  I applied a 50%/50% mix of Wazdakka Red and Skeleton Bone in the middle and on the edges of particular surfaces.

red 3

5  I added White to the Wazdakka/Skeleton mix and further lined the model.

red 4

6  More White was added to the mix and another layer of lines and points was made.

red 5

7  I switched back to Standard Brush and washed the armour with Strong Tone Ink.

red 6

8  I switched to The Psycho to add some Skeleton Bone/White lining in the key points of the armour.

red 7

9  I switched to Tamiya Modeling Brush and washed the armour with Red Tone Ink.

red 8

9  Oops! I did it again washing all the armour with Red Tone Ink to finally finish it.

red 9

Hope that you find this little tut useful and that you will post some pictures of miniatures painted this way 😉

Nazroth
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