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Tag Archives: Recipe

COLOUR RECIPES: MALIFAUX GREMLINS

Here are some Colour Recipes for Malifaux Gremlins from GALLERY: MALIFAUX GREMLINS lvl 4. Please take note that this is a simple colour scheme, not covering multiple overlapping layers and blends inbetween, that lead to the final product. It is supposed to be used as guidline not a step-by-step.

BROWN clothes:

Black Undercoat,

Black Brown (Val),*

Bonewhite (Val),*

Dark Earth (Val),*

Dirt (Val),*

Leather Brown (Val),*p

Karak Stone (GW), l&p

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP), Lahmian Medium (GW),

Karak Stone (GW), l&p

GREEN skin:

Black Green (Val),*

Mix Black Green (Val) 1:1 Skarsnik Green (GW),

Mix Black Green (Val) 1:1:1 Skarsnik Green (GW), Escorpena Green (Val),

Mix Black Green (Val) 1:1:1:1 Skarsnik Green (GW), Escorpena Green (Val), Dead Flesh (Val),

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP), Lahmian Medium (GW),

Livery Green (Val),

BLUE/GREY clothes:

Uk Mediterranean Blue (Val),

Mix Uk Mediterranean Blue (Val) 2:1 Bonewhite (Val),

Mix Uk Mediterranean Blue (Val) 2:1 Off White (Val), l&p

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP), Lahmian Medium (GW),

Mix Uk Mediterranean Blue (Val) 1:1 Off White (Val), l&p

Off White (Val), l&p

SKIN:

Bugmans Glow (GW),

Dwarf Flesh (GW),

Mix Dwarf Flesh (GW) 1:1 Elf Skintone (Val),

Elf Skintone (Val) l&p,

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),

Flesh (Val) l&p,

METAL:

TUTORIAL: PAINTING ‘FIVE LAYERS’ METAL

BASES:

*ground
Dark Fleshtone (Val),*
Gorthor Brown (GW), drbr
Karak Stone (GW), drbr
Flayed One Flesh (GW), flbr

*metal
TUTORIAL: PAINTING ‘FIVE LAYERS’ METAL

*stones
Bastion Grey (P3),
Administratum Grey (GW),
Strong Tone Ink (AP),

*effects
Ryza Rust (GW),
Typhus Corrosion (GW),
Rust Streaks (AK),

 

l&p – lines and points,

p – points,

drbr – drybrush,

flbr – flatbrush,

*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)

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COLOUR RECIPES: INFINITY PANOCEANIA

Here are some Colour Recipes for Infinity Panoceania from GALLERY: INFINITY NEOTERRA lvl 5. Please take note that this is a simple colour scheme, not covering multiple overlapping layers and blends inbetween, that lead to the final product. It is supposed to be used as guidline not a step-by-step.

BLUE armour:

Black Undercoat,

French Blue (VAL),*

Light Sea Blue (Val),*

Mix Light Sea Blue (Val) 8:3 White,*

Mix Guilliman blue (GW) 1:1:1 Blue Tone Ink (AP), Lahmian Medium (GW),

Pale Wych Flesh (GW) l&p,

Light Sea Blue (Val) glaze,

White glaze & l&p,

Black Wash (Val) deep lining,

CREME/BROWN clothes:

Karak Stone (GW),

Flayed One Flesh (GW),

Flayed One Flesh (GW),

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP), Lahmian Medium (GW),

Flayed One Flesh (GW) l&p

Mix Flayed One Flesh (GW) 1:1 Pale Wych Flesh (GW) l&p,

Dark Brown Wash (Val) deep lining,

SKIN:

Bugmans Glow (GW),

Dwarf Flesh (GW),

Mix Dwarf Flesh (GW) 1:1 Elf Skintone (Val),

Elf Skintone (Val) l&p,

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),

Flesh (Val) l&p,

RED helmets:

Sanguine Base (P3),

Mephiston Red (GW),

Evil Sunz Scarlet (GW),

Red Tone Ink (AP),

Bloodletter (GW) glaze points,

Troll Slayer Orange (GW) l&p,

Lugganath Orange (GW) l&p,

RED lights:

Evil Sunz Scarlet (GW),

Troll Slayer Orange (GW),

Lugganath Orange (GW) p,

Pale Wych Flesh (GW) p,

Bloodletter (GW),

Lugganath Orange (GW) p,

BASES:

Administratum Grey (GW),

/ Skeleton Bone (AP),

Mix Skeleton Bone (AP) 1:1 Pale Wych Flesh (GW),

/Frostbite (P3) drbr,

 

 

l&p – lines and points,

p – points,

drbr – drybrush,

*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)

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COLOUR RECIPES: FALLEN FRONTIERS RIFFS

Here are some Colour Recipes for Fallen Frontiers Riffs from GALLERY: FALLEN FRONTIERS RIFFS lvl 3-4. Please take note that this is a simple colour scheme, not covering multiple overlapping layers and blends inbetween, that lead to the final product. It is supposed to be used as guidline not a step-by-step.

TURQUISE armour:

Black Undercoat,

German Grey (Val)*,

Mix German Grey (Val) 1:1 Cold Grey (Val)*,

Coal Black (P3)*,

Hydra Turquise (AP)*,

Mix Hydra Turquise (AP) 1:1 White*,

Heroes: Pallid Wych Flesh (GW) l&p,

DARK clothes:

Black Undercoat,

German Grey (Val)*,

Mix German Grey (Val) 1:1 Cold Grey (Val)*,

Skavenblight Dinge (GW),

Mix Skavenblight Dinge (GW) 1:1 Light Grey (Val),

Dark Tone Ink (AP),

Heroes: Karak Stone (GW) l&p,

Heroes: Pale Wych Flesh (GW) l&p,

GREEN skin:

Dark Yellow (Val)*,

Red Terracota (Val)*,

Cam. Black Brown (Val)*,

Mix Cam. Black Brown (Val) 1:1 Black*,

BLACK weapons:

Black Undercoat,

German Grey (Val)*,

Mix German Grey (Val) 1:1 Cold Grey (Val)*,

Dark Tone Ink (AP),

Pallid Wych Flesh (GW) l&p,

RED gloves:

Red Terracota (Val)*,

Mix Hot Orange (Val) 5:1:1 Red Terracota (Val), Bonewhite (Val)*,

Red Tone Ink (AP)*,

Heroes: Lugannath Orange (GW) l&p,

MARS Bases:

Martian Ironearth (GW),

Martian Ironcrust (GW),

Fire Dragon Bright (GW) dbr,

Luganath Orange (GW) l,

Dark Steppe Tufts (Paint Forge) tufts,

dbr – drybrush,

l&p – lines and points,

*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)

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COLOUR RECIPES: INFINITY TOHAA

Here are some Colour Recipes for Infinity Yu-Jing lvl 5 from GALLERY: INFINITY TOHAA lvl 5. Please take note that this is a simple colour scheme, not covering multiple overlapping layers and blends inbetween, that lead to the final product. It is supposed to be used as guidline not a step-by-step.

scarhandpainting-infinity-tohaa-sakiel-colour-match

BONE armour:

Black Undercoat,

Earth (Vallejo)*,

Khaki (Vallejo)*,

Bonewhite (Vallejo)*,

Pallid Wych Flesh (GW) l&p,

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),

Pallid Wych Flesh (GW) l&p,

White l&p,

SYMBIONT armour:

Hot Orange (Vallejo),

Hot Orange (Vallejo) + Pallid Wych Flesh (GW),

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),

Lugganath Orange (GW),

Lugganath Orange (GW) + Pallid Wych Flesh (GW),

Pallid Wych Flesh (GW) l&p,

andreas-tohaa-25

BLACK weapons:

Black Undercoat,

Skavenblight Dinge (GW),

Fenrisian Grey (GW),

Pallid Wych Flesh (GW) l&p,

Dark Tone Ink (AP),

Pallid Wych Flesh (GW) l&p,

White l&p,

NECROTIC skin:

Dead Flesh (Vallejo),

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),

Necrotic Flesh (AP) + Pallid Wych Flesh (GW) l&p,

White l&p,

andreas-tohaa-30

ORANGE clothes:

Hot Orange (Vallejo),

Hot Orange (Vallejo) + Fire Dragon Bright (GW),

Hot Orange (Vallejo) + Fire Dragon Bright (GW) + Pallid Wych Flesh (GW) l&p,

Pallid Wych Flesh (GW) l&p,

Mix Hot Orange (Vallejo) 3: 1 Bloodletter (GW),

Lugganath Orange (GW) l&p,

GRAY/BLUE clothes:

Eshin Grey (GW),

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),

Eshin Grey (GW),

Eshin Grey (GW) + Fenrisian Grey (GW),

Eshin Grey (GW) + Fenrisian Grey (GW) + Pallid Wych Flesh (GW) l&p,

Dark Tone Ink (AP) shadows,

Pallid Wych Flesh (GW) l&p,

White l&p,

scarhandpainting-infinity-tohaa-kerail-preceptors-1

l&p – lines and points,

*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)

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COLOUR RECIPES: INFINITY YU-JING JINYIWEI

Here are some Colour Recipes for Infinity Yu-Jing lvl 5 from GALLERY: INFINITY OTHER lvl 3-5. Please take note that this is a simple colour scheme, not covering multiple overlapping layers and blends inbetween, that lead to the final product. It is supposed to be used as guidline not a step-by-step.

Infinity Yu-Jing Kanren y1

RED outfits:

Black Undercoat,

German Red Brown (Vallejo),

Wazdakka Red (GW),

Wazdakka Red (GW) + Troll Slayer Orange (GW),

Red Tone Ink (AP),

Troll slayer Orange (GW) + Medium,

Lugganath Orange (GW),

 

YELLOW armour:

Moldy Ochre (P3)*,

Moldy Ochre (P3) + White*,

White l&p,

Lammenters Yellow (GW),

White l&p,

Soft Tone Ink (AP) + Medium,

White l&p,

WIP Kanrens 1

BLACK/GREY outfits & weapons:

Black Undercoat,

Skavenblight Dinge (GW),

Fenrisian Grey (GW),

Pallid Wych Flesh (GW) l&p,

Dark Tone Ink (AP),

Pallid Wych Flesh (GW) l&p,

White l&p,

 

BASES gray:

Black Undercoat,

Eshin Grey (GW),

Administratum Grey (GW) soft drybrush

Infinity Yu-Jing Kanren x2
l&p – lines and points,

*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)

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COLOUR RECIPES: INFINITY USARF

Here are some Colour Recipes for Infinity USAriadna Ranger Force from GALLERY: INFINITY USARIADNA. Please take note that this is a simple colour scheme, not covering multiple overlapping layers and blends inbetween, that lead to the final product. It is supposed to be used as guidline not a step-by-step.

Ariadna lvl comp 1

 

Armour & Uniforms:

Black Undercoat,

Dark Earth (Vallejo),*

Light Brown (Vallejo),*

Light Brown (Vallejo) points,*

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),

Flayed One Flesh (GW),

Pallid Wych Flesh (GW) l&p,

 

BLACK/GREY outfits & weapons:

Black Undercoat,

Skavenblight Dinge (GW),

Fenrisian Grey (GW),

Pallid Wych Flesh (GW) l&p,

Dark Tone Ink (AP),

Pallid Wych Flesh (GW) l&p,

White l&p,

wip-ariadna

BROWN elements:

Olive Drab (Vallejo),

Gorthor Brown (GW),

Gorthor Brown (GW) + Pallid Wych Flesh (GW),

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),

Karak Stone (GW) l&p,

 

SKIN:

Bugmans Glow (GW),

Dwarf Flesh (GW),

Dwarf Flesh (GW) + Pale Flesh (Vallejo),

Pale Flesh (Vallejo),

Pale Flesh (Vallejo) + Pallid Wych Flesh (GW) l&p,

 

Ariadna grunts foxtrot van zant 1

*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)

l&p – lines and points,

View the INFINITY GALLERY…

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TUTORIAL: PAINTING MICRO ART STUDIO CONCRETE WALLS

SbS MAS Walls 1

Micro Art Studio does some fantastic paint job on their stuff. At some level it might even be considered a bit intimidating. Thoughts like ‘This stuff is amazing, but I will never be able to paint it anything like they did’ had kept me from purchasing some awesome terrain pieces in the past. I bet that some of you feel the same right now. Well – that is clearly a bad way of thinking. That’s why I prepared this small Step-by-step painting tutorial with which I hope to bring you closer to your ideal of a Gaming Table.

For this purpose I picked a Concrete Wall Set 2 by Micro Art Studio and tried to copy their style with a small variation of the colour scheme.

I USED:

  • Airbrush, (Harder & Steinbeck Infinity CR plus 0,4mm nozzle)
  • Small brush,
  • Mechanicus Standard Grey (GW) Undercoat,
  • Airbrush Flow Improver (Vallejo ),
  • White (Vallejo) Surface Primer,
  • Light Brown (Vallejo Game Air),
  • Soft Tone Ink (Army Painter),
  • Light Livery Green (Vallejo Game Air),
  • Waywatcher Green (GW) Glaze,
  • Streaking Grime (AK Interactive) Weathering effect,

 

SbS MAS Walls 2

SbS MAS Walls 3

1  After unpacking the set I have cleared any extent of resin and prepared each piece for the undercoat.

I used THIS METHOD

SbS MAS Walls layer 1 GW Mechanicus Standard Grey

2  I have covered entire set with Games Workshop's Mechanicus Standard Grey primer. Usually I use Black Undercoat first, but in this case the surface was smooth and I knew it will work well with a Grey undercoat. Do not feel obliged to use the exact same primer - you can easily use Vallejo Grey Surface Primer instead and Airbrush it over the surface. I used spray just to save some time.

SbS MAS Walls layer 2 Vallejo White Primer

3  I gently arbrushed Vallejo White Surface Primer over the set. First I tried to cover entire surface from afar (15cm distance, constant flow, see pic - dark spots), then I outlined center of each flat surface with additional layers (5cm distance, soft puffs of paint, see pic - light spots). This resulted in the surfaces gaining some extra shadows.

SbS MAS Walls layer 3 Vallejo Light Brown

4  I used airbrush to apply Vallejo Light Brown onto the lower parts of each Wall piece. I mixed a bit of Airbrush Flow Improver to build up a nice transition from brown to white. The key is to paint in smooth lines, then go backwards building up colour. Too much paint in the same spot will result in paint spilling all around and ruining the paint job.

SbS MAS Walls layer 4 AP Soft Tone Ink

5  Then I moved to Army Painter's Soft Tone Ink and airbrushed it over Light Brown, with an addition of single strokes over the recesses of four oval Wall pieces. I was careful not to apply too much paint as in this particular case I wanted to build up a nice hume of colour, instead of 'washing' the surface with it.

SbS MAS Walls layer 5 Vallejo Light Livery Green copy

6  Then I applied a thin layer of Vallejo Light Livery Green over and around each lamp. A lot of small puffs of paint helped me to keep the base shape of light around the lamps. Even if one or two puffs went too far, they were so delicate as to remain unseen once the majority of colour was applied.

SbS MAS Walls layer 6 GW Waywatcher Green copy

7  To strenghten the colour I used a small brush and applied Games Workshop's Waywacher Green onto the lamps. I tried not to exeed the boundries of their slots and in case I did - I used a small piece of paper towel to clear the paint out.

SbS MAS Walls layer 7 AK streaks

8  Finally I applied AK Interactive Streaking Grime. Using a small brush I poured this weathering effect paint into holes, then smeared it dow with a tip of the brush. The more irregular it went, the better to the overall visual effect.

In the end I used a template provided by Reycast to airbrush a small Nomad prank onto the wall, with a Vallejo Black Paint. What’s left now is to purchase Micro Art Studio’s S-F Graffiti Transfers and job will be done.

Here is a result of my paint job:

Micro Art Studio concrete walls set 1

Micro Art Studio concrete walls set 2

Micro Art Studio concrete walls set 3

 

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COLOUR RECIPES: WARHAMMER 40,000 TAU

Here are some Colour Recipes for Warhammer 40,000 ‘Tau Empire’ from GALLERY: WARHAMMER 40,000 TAU lvl 3

TAU Stormsurge 5

TURQUISE armour:

Coal Black (P3)*,

Hydra Turquise (AP)*,

Turquise Ink (P3)*,

Turquise Ink (P3)*,

*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)

 

GREY armour:

German Grey (Vallejo)*,

Wolf Grey (Vallejo)*,

Black Wash (Vallejo)*,

Pallid Wych Flesh (GW),

*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)

WIP TAU 6

GOLD:

Underrust (Warplock Bronze GW – like mix of Vallejo Airs),

Blighted Gold (P3),

Brass Balls (P3),

Mix 1:1 Strong Tone Ink (AP) + Soft Tone Ink (AP),

 

PURPLE OSL:

Warlord Purple (Vallejo)*,

White*,

Purple Tone Ink (AP)*,

White points,

Purple Tone Ink (AP) + Medium glazed,

*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)

Desert Rock Bases 8

BASES:

TUTORIAL: PAINTING DESERT ROCK BASES

SKIN:

Shadow Grey (GW),

Shadow Grey (GW) + Frostbite (P3),

Shadow Grey (GW) + Frostbite (P3) 1:2,

Frostbite (P3), soft drybrush

WIP TAU 15

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COLOUR RECIPES: WARHAMMER 40,000 IMPERIAL FISTS

Here are some Colour Recipes for Warhammer 40,000 ‘Imperial Fists’ Space Marines from GALLERY: IMPERIAL FISTS lvl 3-4

Imperial Fists Hunter Stalker 2

YELLOW armour:

Corax White undercoat (GW),

White preshading*,

Gold Yellow 72.707 (Vallejo)*,

Soft Tone Ink (AP)*,

Matt Varnish (Vallejo)*,

Moldy Ochre (P3) edges,

Khaki 72.761 (Vallejo)*,

Earth 72.762 (Vallejo)*,

Dark Fleshtone 72.744 (Vallejo)* dirt,

*Airbrushed

IF pancerz WIP

BLUE OSL:

Light Sea Blue 71.089 (Vallejo)*,

White*,

Guilliman Blue Glaze (GW),

*Airbrushed,

BLUE Lens:

Teclis Blue (GW),

Hoeth Blue (GW),

Hoeth blue + White (GW),

White,

Guilliman Blue Glaze (GW),

White edges,

Imperial Fists Hunter Stalker 5

METAL:

TUTORIAL: PAINTING ‘FIVE LAYERS’ METAL

 

BLACK:

Black,

Frostbite (P3) edges,

White edges,

Khaki 72.761 (Vallejo)*,

Earth 72.762 (Vallejo)*,

*Airbrushed

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TUTORIAL: PAINTING WHITE

Two weeks ago I was participating in a tournament of Infinity the Game. Somewhere between games I chated with fellow hobbyist and as the topic moved to miniatures he asked me about my Infinity Corregidor’s white. What made him curious was how solid and actually ‘white’ that colour was. I started explaining and before I finished – a group of players was standing around and listening to my recipe. I then realised that a lot of painters struggle with white as it is not an easy colour to achieve. A common mistake is to paint layer after layer of pure white as usually all the irregularities made with first layer will still be visible.

So here’s what I have observed about white paint: White has a lot of pigment which is the reason for building irregularities on the painted surface. These irregularities lead to a formation of strong white points in contrast with all the area where white is not so strong at first. It does not matter how many layers we provide as a difference between these two will be visible for long after the painted surface looses all the detail. So I figured that in order to build a nice and strong white colour there should be a small number of thin layers. But how to achieve a perfect whiteness with only few layers? The answer to that question is below…

Hacker 1

I USED:

* Chaos Black Undercoat (GW),

* Pallid Wych Flesh (GW),

* White,

* Matt Varnish (AP),

white 1

1  I applied Pallid Wych Flesh (GW) onto the surface. This layer is usually dirty and full of smudges. Black undercoat is also visible undernath it but I don't care. The key factor is to keep this layer thin so I blurredany accumulated paint with my brush adding a tiny bit of water (I used a Citadel Basecoat brush to be precise).

white 3

2  Next in line was a 1/1 mix of Pallid Wych Flesh (GW) and White. Once again I tried to keep the paint thin without adding any water. Just used the tip of the brush to clear any irregularities of paint. This layer has a lot of white's pigment, further enchanced by Pallid Wych Flesh so it should be easy to obtain a solid colour at this point - still not 'white' tho.

white 4

3  Third layer follows the same rules as the first one. I kept a thin layer of pure white mixed with a tiny bit of water.

white 5

!  You can repeat this layer to make sure the whiteness is 'perfect' before proceeding to the next one...

4  To further smoothe the surface I used Matt Varnish. It solidified the 'whiteness' of my layers but I had to be very careful due to Varnish's tendention of drawing small hair and dust fragments. After applying this layer I put the miniature into a small plastic box so that no dusty trash will land on it while it dries out.

white 6

That’s it – that’s the whole secret of pure and strong white.

I had a lot of difficulities taking proper pictures so please treat these pics as not entirely true – I have these pieces before me and there’s a lot of colour difference between balls 1st to 4th, and some difference in smoothness between 4th and 5th. Still you now know the recipe and it should work for you just as it works for me 🙂

white 7

 

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