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Tag Archives: Infinity

COLOUR RECIPES: INFINITY PANOCEANIA

Here are some Colour Recipes for Infinity Panoceania from GALLERY: INFINITY NEOTERRA lvl 5. Please take note that this is a simple colour scheme, not covering multiple overlapping layers and blends inbetween, that lead to the final product. It is supposed to be used as guidline not a step-by-step.

BLUE armour:

Black Undercoat,

French Blue (VAL),*

Light Sea Blue (Val),*

Mix Light Sea Blue (Val) 8:3 White,*

Mix Guilliman blue (GW) 1:1:1 Blue Tone Ink (AP), Lahmian Medium (GW),

Pale Wych Flesh (GW) l&p,

Light Sea Blue (Val) glaze,

White glaze & l&p,

Black Wash (Val) deep lining,

CREME/BROWN clothes:

Karak Stone (GW),

Flayed One Flesh (GW),

Flayed One Flesh (GW),

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP), Lahmian Medium (GW),

Flayed One Flesh (GW) l&p

Mix Flayed One Flesh (GW) 1:1 Pale Wych Flesh (GW) l&p,

Dark Brown Wash (Val) deep lining,

SKIN:

Bugmans Glow (GW),

Dwarf Flesh (GW),

Mix Dwarf Flesh (GW) 1:1 Elf Skintone (Val),

Elf Skintone (Val) l&p,

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),

Flesh (Val) l&p,

RED helmets:

Sanguine Base (P3),

Mephiston Red (GW),

Evil Sunz Scarlet (GW),

Red Tone Ink (AP),

Bloodletter (GW) glaze points,

Troll Slayer Orange (GW) l&p,

Lugganath Orange (GW) l&p,

RED lights:

Evil Sunz Scarlet (GW),

Troll Slayer Orange (GW),

Lugganath Orange (GW) p,

Pale Wych Flesh (GW) p,

Bloodletter (GW),

Lugganath Orange (GW) p,

BASES:

Administratum Grey (GW),

/ Skeleton Bone (AP),

Mix Skeleton Bone (AP) 1:1 Pale Wych Flesh (GW),

/Frostbite (P3) drbr,

 

 

l&p – lines and points,

p – points,

drbr – drybrush,

*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)

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TUTORIAL: EXPLODING MINIATURES

In this easy, step-by-step tutorial I’m going to show you how to create an ‘explosion from inside’ effect on the miniatures. Personally I use this method to create exploding mines or in this case Crazy Koalas from Infinity the game, but the number of potential uses is limited only by your imagination. That being said, buckle up and have a nice ride.

I USED:

  • Super Glue,
  • Green Stuff,
  • Modelling Tools,
  • Two ‘Crazy Koala’ miniatures,

1  I started with cutting the miniature diagonally in two. I didn't thought too much about where to cut, just about the waist, leaving one hand attached to the lower part of the body.

2  I then rolled some Green Stuff and glued it onto the lower body part.

3  Next I applied a small drop of Super Glue onto the Green Stuff and attached the upper body part to it.

4  Then I squeezed both part, forcing the Green Stuff out.

5  Next I gently pulled both body parts away, creating a gap with rended Green Stuff inbetween the parts.

6  Next I rolled another piece of Green Stuff and repeated the technique, adding head to the miniature.

7  After pulling the head away I used a modelling tool to stretch the excess Green Stuff to the sides.

8  I also applied Super Glue onto the Green Stuff to fasten it's hardening.

The end result is below:

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COLOUR RECIPES: INFINITY ALEPH (Turquise)

Here are some Colour Recipes for Infinity ALEPH from GALLERY: INFINITY ALEPH lvl 4,5. Please take note that this is a simple colour scheme, not covering multiple overlapping layers and blends inbetween, that lead to the final product. It is supposed to be used as guidline not a step-by-step.

TURQUISE armour:

Black Undercoat,

Coal Black (P3),

Hydra Turquise (AP),

Mix Hydra Turquise (AP) 5:1 Pale Wych Flesh (GW) l&p,

Mix Hydra Turquise (AP) 1:5 Pale Wych Flesh (GW) l&p,

Coelia Greenshade (GW),

Pale Wych Flesh (GW) l&p,

DARK clothes:

Black Undercoat,

Dark Sea Grey (Val)*,

Barley Grey (Val)*,

Dark Sea Grey (Val)*,

Wolf Grey (Val)*,

Pale Wych Flesh (GW) l&p,

Dark Tone Ink (AP),

…DEEP dark effect:

Pale Wych Flesh (GW) l&p,

Dark Tone Ink (AP),

…BROWN clothes:

Dirt (Val),

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),

Off White (Val) l&p,

SKIN:

Bugmans Glow (GW),

Dwarf Flesh (GW),

Elf Skintone (Val),

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),

Flesh (Val) l&p,

GREEN OLS:

Sick Green (Val),

Mix Sick Green (Val) 1:1 Off White (Val),

Mix Sick Green (Val) 1:2 Off White (Val) l&p,

Light Livery Green (Val)*,

Waywatcher Green (GW),

Off White (Val) l&p,

l&p – lines and points,

*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)

 

 

 

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CORREGIDOR BASES TO HIT THE STORES!

Long time ago in a galaxy far away I started to work on my own design of round bases to use them for Infinity Corregidor Collection. Throughout the years these bases became somehow popular with customers asking me to make some for their own collections. At some point Micro Art Studio asked me to prepare a series of bases using my designs as a template, so that the series would be MAS produced. The entire process of designing, processing for approval, redesigning, correcting and producing took almost eight months, but finally, the official Corvus Belli approved Corregidor Bases of my design hit the Micro Art Studio’s online store!

Seeing the end product I can’t help but notice that Corregidor Bases made a long way since the initial idea. The design evolved a lot to reach it’s final form, but even such detail as different approach to paint job provides Corregidor Bases with a totally new looks, pushing them in the direction of that old, scarred jail ship theme.Micro Art Studio’s team did a great job.

Must say that it is awesome to see a real-deal product of  my design being released by a company of Micro Art Studio’s grandeur, not to mention Corvus Belli patronage over the project. Such great support to a project ensures quality of the end product and secures my name in the annuals of the hobby. Still, for me, the best reward would be to go to a tournament and encounter an army based on Corregidor Bases there. Damn! That would just rock my socks off 🙂

I look forward to seeing all the cool paint job ideas, players around the world would have for these bases. Can’t wait to get my own set – this would make basing my own collection so much easier 😛

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COLOUR RECIPES: INFINITY TOHAA

Here are some Colour Recipes for Infinity Yu-Jing lvl 5 from GALLERY: INFINITY TOHAA lvl 5. Please take note that this is a simple colour scheme, not covering multiple overlapping layers and blends inbetween, that lead to the final product. It is supposed to be used as guidline not a step-by-step.

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BONE armour:

Black Undercoat,

Earth (Vallejo)*,

Khaki (Vallejo)*,

Bonewhite (Vallejo)*,

Pallid Wych Flesh (GW) l&p,

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),

Pallid Wych Flesh (GW) l&p,

White l&p,

SYMBIONT armour:

Hot Orange (Vallejo),

Hot Orange (Vallejo) + Pallid Wych Flesh (GW),

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),

Lugganath Orange (GW),

Lugganath Orange (GW) + Pallid Wych Flesh (GW),

Pallid Wych Flesh (GW) l&p,

andreas-tohaa-25

BLACK weapons:

Black Undercoat,

Skavenblight Dinge (GW),

Fenrisian Grey (GW),

Pallid Wych Flesh (GW) l&p,

Dark Tone Ink (AP),

Pallid Wych Flesh (GW) l&p,

White l&p,

NECROTIC skin:

Dead Flesh (Vallejo),

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),

Necrotic Flesh (AP) + Pallid Wych Flesh (GW) l&p,

White l&p,

andreas-tohaa-30

ORANGE clothes:

Hot Orange (Vallejo),

Hot Orange (Vallejo) + Fire Dragon Bright (GW),

Hot Orange (Vallejo) + Fire Dragon Bright (GW) + Pallid Wych Flesh (GW) l&p,

Pallid Wych Flesh (GW) l&p,

Mix Hot Orange (Vallejo) 3: 1 Bloodletter (GW),

Lugganath Orange (GW) l&p,

GRAY/BLUE clothes:

Eshin Grey (GW),

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),

Eshin Grey (GW),

Eshin Grey (GW) + Fenrisian Grey (GW),

Eshin Grey (GW) + Fenrisian Grey (GW) + Pallid Wych Flesh (GW) l&p,

Dark Tone Ink (AP) shadows,

Pallid Wych Flesh (GW) l&p,

White l&p,

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l&p – lines and points,

*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)

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“THE COLONY” SPECIAL PROJECT part seven

It’s been almost four months since I have ‘finished’ The Colony Special Project. Such grand endavours are the reason I’m into painting and miniatures wargaming. That wondrous feel of completion once a huge project hits the finish line. It always comes with a great satisfaction but once the dust settles, a void starts to grow inside my heart. I’m happy with results, yet  long for the ‘process of creation’. That is why I consider every major project to be alive for at least as long as I am. In case of The Colony – well, a gaming table could always be improoved or use some more scenery. That is the exact way of thinking which led me to writing another part of this article…

THE COLONY - part seven: BEYOND

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That being said I must confess that I wasn’t able to invest much time into The Colony in the last few months. Commissions fell on me from all around the globe and I lived a prosperous life by lending my brush to all those in need of decent painting. Still, once in a while, between commissions I stumbled upon some cool looking items that just screamed to be unleashed onto my gaming board in form of some sweet looking terrain. Many sources provided me with items of great value, among them my girlfriend (cosmetics), my friend Garran (his personal collection of ‘cool stuff’) and even some of befriended companies like Micro Art Studio, or Ekograf, who (knowing my tastes) sent me some of their leftovers. I sincerly thank all of you, my beloved providers, and proudly announce that I couldn’t resist the temptation and used all the items, you so willingly parted with, to further expand my scenery collection and bring The Colony’s theme beyond the bounds of my early predictions.

 

From Scratch

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Anyone remembers that picture? It was published at the end of “THE COLONY” SPECIAL PROJECT part six article. Some of this stuff still awaits being used, but more than half of it has already reincarnated in a form of these scenery pieces:

New Sculpture

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A futuristic sculpture made out of a Maybelline eyelashes mascara. Once I stole this precious item from my GF’s secret stash I had a real wrinkle with how to use it. So many ideas, including an antenna, a column, a laser tube – in the end I couldn’t decide so I got back into a well known territory of futuristic sculpures. It is only fair to use items stolen from my GF as pieces of art, otherwise she might not be swayed to turn a blind eye on my theft 😛

Strip Cage

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I got that awesome Dactari from my Girlfriend somewhere along two years of gaming. Untill now I hadn’t had use for it, as I was more into Corregidor-like miniatures, but finally I got the idea, made up what MDF pieces I will need to ‘cage’ this chick and ordered them from a friendly company. Once I got the stuff I just build the cage and here’s the result. It makes foir a nice rooftop piece or a great standalone scenery piece.

Experimental Tubes

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These can be used as objectives or just some random scenery pieces. I made them out of HDF pieces, leftovers and small plastic tubes* filled with shower gell. The tubes were given to me by Garran with which I tend to play Infinity, but also exchange concepts during our long painting/modelling talks. The guy is so nice as to share some of his stuff with me and I try hard not to let this gesture go to waste.

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Sexy Pleksi

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This is another source of endless inspiration. These are some throwbacks from Micro Art Studio’s production. MAS is very serious about their products – each and every one is checked for defects before it proceeds to packing. Once a defect is discovered, all imperfect products are kept as samples to avoid same kind of mistake in the future. In case of large quantities tho – some items may be sent to a friendly modeller to be used for awesome scenery building! One might even say that these can be used in a variety of crazy ways…

Distance Keepers

the-colony-7-building-linkers-1

Six bridges are a bit too much on a 48×48″ table so I designed these scenery pieces to help me setup and then keep the gaming board in order. Simple yet effective, adding depth to streets and a nice futuristic note to the overall visual effect.

Low Planters

nomad-bunch-and-small-planters

Made with playability in mind, these low planters are perfect to fill my choosen theme of white/orange/green scenery. They fit both at the ground level and in the rooftops. I made these using pleksi rulers to provide detail, while the rest is just plasticard cut to fit the empty spaces. The visuals vere enchanced by plants and HDF ‘orange’ pieces.

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Plant Compartments

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This plant compartment module is a pearl among the scenery pieces I’ve created lately. I’m really happy with how it came out. To think that I struggled for almost a year before I decided how to use two Yves Saint Laurent caps. But let’s get to the way these items (there are actually two identical scenery pieces) came to life. Some time ago I got a set of used up cutter casings from Ekograf to use in my quest of bringing imagination to reality. My friend Garran was the one to dig these out specially with me in mind (Once again thanks mate!). Once I layed my hands on these fine pieces I knew that something wondrous will come out of them. So I started planning and was quickly drawn to still unused Yves Saint Lauren caps. Their hexagonal shape fit perfectly to The Colony’s theme so I based the entire construction on them. After adding couple of PCV pieces to make the construction higher I used plexi rulers to add detail, then used cutter casings and some HDF leftovers to build particular compartments and mounted them around the central column. For the plants I used a fake Bonsai tree made out of gum. It was to fragile to be used as a standalone scenery piece, but inside the compartments it could easily outlive all the other terrain pieces. So I used glue and some tricks of my own to enchance the vicualts of tree stupms, added fake greenery and mounted these fine looking plants inside the compartments. ‘Orange’ elements followed and themed paint job done the rest. Now I have two LOF blocking pieces of scenery, that provide a lot of cover, fill empty spaces between the buildings and go along with the theme.

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Completing the Theme

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One thing still stood out of The Colony’s theme. The Micro Art Studio’s gaming mat (which I just love and don’t want to ever switch for anything else) was screwing with my colour scheme too much. I’ve figured to try and paint it, using sprays and airbrush. For this purpose I’ve airbrushed the entire mat with Vallejo’s German Red Brown, then used Vallejo’s white primer to lighten some spots and finished with Games Workshop’s Zandri Dust primer spray. Once the last layer was dry I moisted the gaming mat and used a piece of cloth on it to ensure that no paint will leave marks on my terrain, miniatures and accessories. Must say that MAS’s gaming mat holds the paint perfectly, while keeping it’s previous properties. The picture does not entirely cover the hue but rest assured that now the gaming mat fits perfectly to The Colony.

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Epilogue

Last four months might not seen me The Colony-centered, still I’ve managed to improove the inicial concept of this gaming table. I’m really glad to be able to transform this:

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Into this:

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Are more upgrades incomming? As long as I live and am into Infinity – that’s not a matter of if, but when. Stay tuned for more of The Colony.

Gallery

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You want to learn more about The Colony? Check out the entire series using THIS TAG

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COLOUR RECIPES: INFINITY YU-JING JINYIWEI

Here are some Colour Recipes for Infinity Yu-Jing lvl 5 from GALLERY: INFINITY OTHER lvl 3-5. Please take note that this is a simple colour scheme, not covering multiple overlapping layers and blends inbetween, that lead to the final product. It is supposed to be used as guidline not a step-by-step.

Infinity Yu-Jing Kanren y1

RED outfits:

Black Undercoat,

German Red Brown (Vallejo),

Wazdakka Red (GW),

Wazdakka Red (GW) + Troll Slayer Orange (GW),

Red Tone Ink (AP),

Troll slayer Orange (GW) + Medium,

Lugganath Orange (GW),

 

YELLOW armour:

Moldy Ochre (P3)*,

Moldy Ochre (P3) + White*,

White l&p,

Lammenters Yellow (GW),

White l&p,

Soft Tone Ink (AP) + Medium,

White l&p,

WIP Kanrens 1

BLACK/GREY outfits & weapons:

Black Undercoat,

Skavenblight Dinge (GW),

Fenrisian Grey (GW),

Pallid Wych Flesh (GW) l&p,

Dark Tone Ink (AP),

Pallid Wych Flesh (GW) l&p,

White l&p,

 

BASES gray:

Black Undercoat,

Eshin Grey (GW),

Administratum Grey (GW) soft drybrush

Infinity Yu-Jing Kanren x2
l&p – lines and points,

*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)

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REVIEW: RIGHT ARM LABS WARGAMING TERRAIN

If you are reading this blog regularly, then you already know that my life is not entirely composed of painting – some gaming is also involved! Here and there a more gaming-centered article pops out and today’s review is just such an article. If you came here for a painting article, please do not be discouraged and still give thise one a try – who knows, maybe you will end up ordering a bunch of miniatures along with some cool looking terrain, or at least see something new?

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RIGHT ARM LABS

I stumbled upon Right Arm Labs during Polish National Championships of Infinity the game. This friendly, wargaming terrain producing, company visited the event, providing awesome looking terrain pieces for couple of gaming boards. Many times have I gasped with admiration seeing how cool looking and playable their gaming boards were. Unfortunatelly for me, back then I didn’t play a single game on their terrain, but in the end I won a painting competition and received some gifts funded by guys from Right Arm Labs. (Lucky me!). So I took my spoils of war back home and gave them a try in couple of games. Here’s my thoughts on them…

right-arm-labs-review-0

 

QUALITY: 9/10

If I’m to categorise Right Arm Labs products I’d say they are of a good quality. The material used to construct them is durable and the parts fit perfectly to one another. They are easy to put together which is uncommon in the market of wargaiming terrain. Another uncommon thing is that they come pre-painted and not in some dismissive way, but a totally nice looking, precise and ready to play one. Sure, the colours could use some juice, but it’s better than regular HDF!

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VISUALS: 7/10

Right Arm Labs took an interresting approach to visual aspect of their terrain. Exteriors are a bit crude and some features were clearly left out to make these terrain pieces more playable. At the same tame there’s a lot of detail and pre-painting. Sure it’s not Zen Terrain complex design or Micro Art Studio’s fine style, but still it appeals to the eye isn’t it? We must remember that there are plenty one-man-companies that produce flat walled cubic buildings and don’t even bother to add detail. Right Arm Labs proudly stands above the latter.

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PLAYABILITY 10/10:

Along with nice looks the Right Arm Labs Terrain comes with high playability. Flat surfaces and sharp angles are perfect for Infinity and will fit in many different games including Warhammer 40,000. Height and dimensions of the objects and terrain pieces goes well with 28mm scale, providing enough cover and options for our miniatures to explore. While smaller scenery pieces can be mounted on bases and used as objectives, the buildings are designed in a way that lets you manipulate their features between games! Just take a look at this interresting Control Room:

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Now let’s break it into particular pieces…

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Each of these pieces, even the floor, is two sided, with one side being more military themed and the other more industrial…

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Walls can be switched at a whim and go smooth into special sliders designed to accomodate them…

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I see many different uses for this kind of building, including but not limited to: Objective Room, bunker, regular building, urban platform…

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FUNCTIONALITY: 10/10

They come pre-painted and let you manipulate features for more re-playability, but most of all they are well designed with particular pieces being held in place by sturdy elements. Even doors are made of two layers – one fitting perfectly into the wall, while the other is holding it firmly in place. Also, due to the clever construction, the walls seem much thicker than they actually are. The key feature is that the entire construction can be easily assembled/disasembled in a matter of seconds.

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PRICE: 4/10

Price is the only thing setting me on edge when thinking about these splendid terrain pieces. A complex objective room along with a roof that must be purchased separately will see you spend around 50€ to obtain. I’m not suggesting it is not worth the price – I’m saying it’s just a lot for a single building. In comparisson for this price you will get not one but between two to seven Micro Art Studio’s buildings! It is a well known fact that most of us would rather spend majority of their hobby cash on miniatures instead of a gaming board. Still if you count in the time and resources required to paint a single building – the initial price of Right Arm Labs terrain does not look so bad.

 

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SUMMARY: 8/10

Personally I think that Right Arm Labs does a nice job with their terrain. Their products are not ‘designed for Infinity’ but rather designed for Wargaming, but ideal for Infinity. I’m willing to forget the price issue due to awesome playability and unprecedented solutions. I can only recommend you to try some of their stuff yourself. I’m sure that you won’t regret it. To contact Right Arm Labs check out their Facebook page, Instagram profile or write’em an e-mail. (This is their preffered way of providing you with particular prices.)

If you have some experience with Right Arm Labs products – I’ll be glad to read your opinion in the comments 😉

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COLOUR RECIPES: INFINITY USARF

Here are some Colour Recipes for Infinity USAriadna Ranger Force from GALLERY: INFINITY USARIADNA. Please take note that this is a simple colour scheme, not covering multiple overlapping layers and blends inbetween, that lead to the final product. It is supposed to be used as guidline not a step-by-step.

Ariadna lvl comp 1

 

Armour & Uniforms:

Black Undercoat,

Dark Earth (Vallejo),*

Light Brown (Vallejo),*

Light Brown (Vallejo) points,*

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),

Flayed One Flesh (GW),

Pallid Wych Flesh (GW) l&p,

 

BLACK/GREY outfits & weapons:

Black Undercoat,

Skavenblight Dinge (GW),

Fenrisian Grey (GW),

Pallid Wych Flesh (GW) l&p,

Dark Tone Ink (AP),

Pallid Wych Flesh (GW) l&p,

White l&p,

wip-ariadna

BROWN elements:

Olive Drab (Vallejo),

Gorthor Brown (GW),

Gorthor Brown (GW) + Pallid Wych Flesh (GW),

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),

Karak Stone (GW) l&p,

 

SKIN:

Bugmans Glow (GW),

Dwarf Flesh (GW),

Dwarf Flesh (GW) + Pale Flesh (Vallejo),

Pale Flesh (Vallejo),

Pale Flesh (Vallejo) + Pallid Wych Flesh (GW) l&p,

 

Ariadna grunts foxtrot van zant 1

*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)

l&p – lines and points,

View the INFINITY GALLERY…

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TUTORIAL: PAINTING MICRO ART STUDIO CONCRETE WALLS

SbS MAS Walls 1

Micro Art Studio does some fantastic paint job on their stuff. At some level it might even be considered a bit intimidating. Thoughts like ‘This stuff is amazing, but I will never be able to paint it anything like they did’ had kept me from purchasing some awesome terrain pieces in the past. I bet that some of you feel the same right now. Well – that is clearly a bad way of thinking. That’s why I prepared this small Step-by-step painting tutorial with which I hope to bring you closer to your ideal of a Gaming Table.

For this purpose I picked a Concrete Wall Set 2 by Micro Art Studio and tried to copy their style with a small variation of the colour scheme.

I USED:

  • Airbrush, (Harder & Steinbeck Infinity CR plus 0,4mm nozzle)
  • Small brush,
  • Mechanicus Standard Grey (GW) Undercoat,
  • Airbrush Flow Improver (Vallejo ),
  • White (Vallejo) Surface Primer,
  • Light Brown (Vallejo Game Air),
  • Soft Tone Ink (Army Painter),
  • Light Livery Green (Vallejo Game Air),
  • Waywatcher Green (GW) Glaze,
  • Streaking Grime (AK Interactive) Weathering effect,

 

SbS MAS Walls 2

SbS MAS Walls 3

1  After unpacking the set I have cleared any extent of resin and prepared each piece for the undercoat.

I used THIS METHOD

SbS MAS Walls layer 1 GW Mechanicus Standard Grey

2  I have covered entire set with Games Workshop's Mechanicus Standard Grey primer. Usually I use Black Undercoat first, but in this case the surface was smooth and I knew it will work well with a Grey undercoat. Do not feel obliged to use the exact same primer - you can easily use Vallejo Grey Surface Primer instead and Airbrush it over the surface. I used spray just to save some time.

SbS MAS Walls layer 2 Vallejo White Primer

3  I gently arbrushed Vallejo White Surface Primer over the set. First I tried to cover entire surface from afar (15cm distance, constant flow, see pic - dark spots), then I outlined center of each flat surface with additional layers (5cm distance, soft puffs of paint, see pic - light spots). This resulted in the surfaces gaining some extra shadows.

SbS MAS Walls layer 3 Vallejo Light Brown

4  I used airbrush to apply Vallejo Light Brown onto the lower parts of each Wall piece. I mixed a bit of Airbrush Flow Improver to build up a nice transition from brown to white. The key is to paint in smooth lines, then go backwards building up colour. Too much paint in the same spot will result in paint spilling all around and ruining the paint job.

SbS MAS Walls layer 4 AP Soft Tone Ink

5  Then I moved to Army Painter's Soft Tone Ink and airbrushed it over Light Brown, with an addition of single strokes over the recesses of four oval Wall pieces. I was careful not to apply too much paint as in this particular case I wanted to build up a nice hume of colour, instead of 'washing' the surface with it.

SbS MAS Walls layer 5 Vallejo Light Livery Green copy

6  Then I applied a thin layer of Vallejo Light Livery Green over and around each lamp. A lot of small puffs of paint helped me to keep the base shape of light around the lamps. Even if one or two puffs went too far, they were so delicate as to remain unseen once the majority of colour was applied.

SbS MAS Walls layer 6 GW Waywatcher Green copy

7  To strenghten the colour I used a small brush and applied Games Workshop's Waywacher Green onto the lamps. I tried not to exeed the boundries of their slots and in case I did - I used a small piece of paper towel to clear the paint out.

SbS MAS Walls layer 7 AK streaks

8  Finally I applied AK Interactive Streaking Grime. Using a small brush I poured this weathering effect paint into holes, then smeared it dow with a tip of the brush. The more irregular it went, the better to the overall visual effect.

In the end I used a template provided by Reycast to airbrush a small Nomad prank onto the wall, with a Vallejo Black Paint. What’s left now is to purchase Micro Art Studio’s S-F Graffiti Transfers and job will be done.

Here is a result of my paint job:

Micro Art Studio concrete walls set 1

Micro Art Studio concrete walls set 2

Micro Art Studio concrete walls set 3

 

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