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Tag Archives: Hobby Advice

TUTORIAL: PREPARING HOBBY GRAVEL

A hobby gravel – along with sand, gravel is a basing resource that each modeller should be acquainted with. Popular to an extent where some companies tried to brand it. For me, gravel and sand are supplies that I avoid buying in hobby stores. Why spend your money on thingsg that you can acquire yourself, especially when you know what to look for and how to prepare it? I preffer spending my cash on paints and awesome miniatures. Not that I ever went gravel hunting. Just kept in mind that modelling treasures like this might be found unexpectedly and to take advantage of such find if luck favours me…

Backstory:

One of these magic moments happened just few days ago. I was walking my dog, decided to take a new route and visit a small defile left by a construction long time gone. Suddenly I stumbled upon a huge pile of perfect gravel. By ‘perfect’ I mean slim, thin, not too sandy, sturdy pieces. Something ideal for basing. I marked the spot in my memory and got back there, armed with a small container, few hours later. Took ‘the sample’ and upon reaching home, spent few minutes preparing it for later use…

I USED:

  • Thick sieve
  • Rare strainer
  • Few plastic containers

1  First I separated the biggest chunks from the rest of precious gravel. These were a bit sandy so I left them for further cleaning (water and toothbrush will do).

2  I then used a rare strainer to separate medium sized pieces from the smallest ones. Medium sized pieces are perfect for scenic rocks, or more planned surfaces. I like to have these in a separate container, just to pick what I need at a whim.

3  What's left was a pile of small, flat pieces - ideal for standard miniature basing. This is what you usually get, when purchasing a hobby gravel in a store. As you can see, a lot of sand and dirt was filtered alongside gravel. Fortunatelly, nothing that a thick sieve couldn't handle.

Done:

Sounds so simple, that you probably ask yourself why have I done a tutorial out of it? I decided to TUT this to show the extreme level of simplicity required to prepare your own gravel. Sure – there is a catch to it: you gotta find some gravel in the first place – still, unless you live at the North pole – one day you will just bump into it. Old construction sites are a good place to start looking. Good hunting.

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TUTORIAL: PHOTOGRAPHIC SETUP

Taking nice looking pictures of painted miniatures might be a real pain in the ass. In many cases this is a very frustrating and time consuming thing to do. I myself struggle with this part of hobbying. My GALLERY is full of pictures – some of which are good, some of which are bad, but for each picture actually featured, I had to take at least three others, which were trashed afterwards. Last year I had a breakthrough, with a professional camera being replaced by a Samsung Galaxy A5 phone. This switch buffed my photographic results tenfold. Not that my pictures started to look really good – nah, they just stopped looking like utter failure. Am I an authority when it comes to taking pictures? Surely not, but if you like my pictures and struggle with photographing your miniatures – maybe I will be able to help you – just a bit.

So, instead of telling you what to do, I would show you how I do it and what I actually use. I would also give you couple hints of what to avoid, when featuring your miniatures.

I USED:

  • Samsung Galaxy A5
  • Tripod
  • Shadow Tent
  • Grey Background
  • Two strong, white light sources

THE CAMERA:

As mentioned before, I used a professional camera before I switched to Samsung Galaxy A5. My main problem with a pro-camera was a lot of crazy options, which I did not understood very well. The complexity of a real-deal camera was just beyond my grasp. Sure, I lowered ISO and tinkered with other settings but to no avail. All the while pictures I took looked really, reeeally bad, with colours going crazy. Upon obtaining a new phone I took some random pictures and to my surprise found out that they look amazing, when compared to what I used to get before. Phone camera options might be limited, but that does not necessarily mean a bad thing. Phones are designed to be user friendly and idiot-proof. That works for me 😉

The current camera setup I use is:

  • The highest possible resolution (13m pixels, 4:3)
  • Auto settings

As you can see – not much to brag about. The best thing about my beloved Samsung is how people react when I tell them all the pics were taken with a phone – priceless…

TRIPOD:

Sometimes I use a cheap (about 10€) tripod, other times I just stack some boxes on one another and hold the camera still on top of it with a “milliput”. Regardless of which method I choose – everything is about keeping my camera perfectly still, slightly above and centered on the miniatures. This helps me keep my pictures sharp and of the same quality. I preffer to keep the camera about 25-30cm from the miniature – this way I get the best results.

In my opinion there’s no need for a professional tripod – here’s how I do it:

SHADOW TENT:

This one is great for keeping the colours balanced and close to real-deal. Shadow tent is a cheap addition to the ‘allmighty photographer’s studio’. Totally underpriced for what it does. For me it eliminated any need to tinker with the pictures in graphic program. Except for adding my logo and frame off course…

BACKGROUND:

Modellers use a variety of different, interresting backgrounds to take pictures with. In my case grey seems to work best. Blue and white are difficult to take pictures with, sometimes turning colours to a juicy crazyness, or blurring white. Black in the other hand reflects light, unless the picture is made in deep shadow. Ever seen these pictures of miniatures, where base’s rant and deep shadows are swallen by the background? Seeing these I’m pretty sure that the real deal miniature looks totally different. So a piece of grey paper it is for me. Not best, but does it’s job and does not mess with colours too much, which for me is the top priority.

LIGHT SETUP:

Many times I had a great set up with camera being positioned perfectly, a shadow tent and trusted background in place – still everything went wrong due to bad light positioning.This one is not difficult, but have a great impact on the quality of the pictures.

I use two Velleman VTLAMP6, which provide a strong, white light on a vast area. There are no more light sources in the room, with windows being covered. The primary light source is located behind the camera and about 25-30cm above it. It is centered on the miniature so that everything, including recesses is clear to see. The secondary light source is located over the miniature and slightly before it. This way shadows are delicate, colours are kept sharp and natural and the camera isn’t blinded by the secondary light source. Why two light sources instead of just one? Mainly to show as much of the real paint job without areas covered in deep shadow, as possible.

Beware of the shadows! If I wanted to deceive you I would have faked additional highlights on all the areas by using only one light source positioned vertically over the miniature. Cheating with light might bring some great results in the picture, but these will be instantaneously dispelled upon seeing the miniature in real life.

BAD PICTURES:

What is a ‘bad picutre’? I would know – I took thousands of these over the years. White going off the scale. Black being too dark. Colours being juicy to a point of totally unreal. Colours going yellow. Shadows being too deep. Light being bounced off some colours. Colours being blurred. Backround being too dark and messing up the colours. All of these and more. Below are some examples of pictures I took, some of which I was even happy about at the time. Now – just can’t look at this crap, cause none of these shows the actual miniature, that I worked hard to paint.

And here’s the newest one, taken with setup mentioned in this tutorial. Overall this is the closest to the real-deal that I am able to produce. I would say that with my monitor setup this is a 95% match. Quite a difference when compared to the previous pictures isn’t it?

So – now you know all the photographic tricks up in my sleeves. A phone camera, tripod, shadow tent, simple grey background and two strong light sources in a dark room. I really know that feeling when you are proud of a paint job and want to share it, but the pictures look like crap, or totally unreal, or both. If this tutorial helps at least one hobbyist to feel good about his pictures – then it was worth it 🙂

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REVIEW: DISPLAYS AND GLASS DOMES

Have you ever created a work that you were so proud of as to arrange it in a display or glass dome? If so – you probably know that finding such is a quest in itself. With few ‘worthy’ miniatures of my own I have wandered the web in search of proper displays and glass domes. I’ve seen many forum threads and online stores but to no avail. At some point I even abandoned all hope. Stores that might provide me with good quality items, that I was searching for, seemed to elude me. Years passed by, while I grew more and more tired of my unsuccessful search.You see the biggest issue about the displays in modelling is their size. It’s difficult to find a display of the exact dimensions to suit 28mm scaled miniatures. Usually what’s available for purchase is huge in comparrison to what you are looking for and in worse cases – of bad quality.

 

Fortunately for me, the search ended abruptly few weeks ago when I stumbled upon not one but two ideal sources of the items I was looking for. After making a test purchase I’ve decided to share with you some the insight…

 

IZMOD DISPLAYS

Izmod is a Polish company producing Displays for miniatures and models. The company seems to be a one-man bussiness with a small online store. The owner is a kind and trustworthy person, open to ideas (at least that’s my opinion) so I asked him about few things and  got to know that right now he is preparing an english version of his website. Good news is that anyone interrested in the purchase can still contact him via e-mail, as it is possible for him to sell and send the items abroad. He also informed me about the differences in the wood structure and the ways his displays are being glued. I’m sure that he is ready to answer any questions regarding eventual purchase, while his producs – well, just see for yourself…

Displays and Glass Domes 1

QUALITY:

Quality of Izmod’s displays is really nice. Depending on the choosen type of wood, the base elements are smooth and cut in a way that compliments the shape of the base. The base comes laquered and feels great in touch, while also being paint-friendly. The plexi displays came to me unscratched (excluding one that was damaged by the post office and exchanged shortlya fter with a new one). The walls are perfectly translucent and edges are rather even. I say ‘rather’ cause here and there some small irregularities appear, but I would still give them 8/10. The only flaw I could find is the way the outer cuting edges are rought in some places, but I’m sure that these can be further polished once I’ll start preparing these displays for the exposition.

Displays and Glass Domes 5

Displays and Glass Domes 4

Displays and Glass Domes 3

PRICE:

Price of these items is fair, varying between 13-25€ with no item from the above picture being even close to the upper price. I’m sure that once you will check out this offer you will find the price well balanced.

LARGE SELECTION:

As I have already mentioned – these items come in a large selection. A variety of shapes and sizes with bases being cut in few differend ways and laquered in different colours. For me being able to choose from between the size of 6/6/6cm and 50/35/35cm is just a thing of beauty. To sweeten the deal, the displays come in few types of wood.

Displays and Glass Domes 6

 

Maybe I’m hyped a bit, but I just want to scream ‘awesome!’ about these things. If you are looking for a proper miniature display – be sure to give Izmod a shot.

Displays and Glass Domes 2

IKEA GLASS DOMES

Everyone knows IKEA. So many houses felt it’s presence these days. Every kind of house related stuff can be found there, still I was somehow shocked to see a series of cool looking glass domes there. Maybe that’s because I was hunting for a fine glass dome with a wooden base for couple of year – don’t know. What I know is that once I accidentally caught a glimpse of a glass dome – I just stood there mesmerized untill me gf bumped into me asking what am I looking at so intensely. It was like a dream come true. Just look at these beauties and you will understand…

Displays and Glass Domes ikea ikea

QUALITY:

In comparison to what I already had at home, the quality of Ikea’s glass domes is very good. Glass is smooth and translucent while bases are perfectly shaped. Some small flaws can bee found here and there, but the overall visuals of the domes is just cool. Also the glass is thin making these domes light (which can be very helpful while cleaning the insides).

Displays and Glass Domes ikea 2

Displays and Glass Domes ikea 4

Displays and Glass Domes ikea 3

PRICE:

Both domes are priced around 10€ which is more than a fair price. I remember purchasing an unbased glass dome for more than 15€, with glass being dimm and blurry (can be seen in the above pics). I don’t know how these will be priced in your place, but be sure to check out both items in the closest Ikea.

Small glass dome code: 303.272.52

Large glass dome code: 403.273.03

Displays and Glass Domes ikea 1

Here’s my advice for you. If you have any advice for me in return – be sure to leave it in the comments section – I’ll be happy to expand my collection of displays and glass domes.

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TUTORIAL: WHEN HANDS SAFETY WENT WRONG

Scarred hand x

“Khorne cares not from whence the blood flows, only that it does…” and in case of our favorite hobby – Let’s just say that it sustains Khorne much more than you can imagine. If you haven’t had any nasty damage done to your hands during hobby labour, than you probably don’t know what true modelling is about! To be short – Yes, a lot of nasty cuts and damage happens to modellers all over the world at daily basis. Most basic are the modelling knife cuts and punctures but believe me – there’s plenty of more serious damage going on all the time. How can we prevent such damage? Well, otherwise than being extra careful – and this not always helps – we can’t. Now you probably wander ‘so what is it that this article is actually about?’ – a fine question, let me answer: This article is all about what happens after you’ve injured your precious hands.

1  BE PREPARED

There’s nothing worse than being caught off guard. Be sure to anticipate an injury at some point and keep some purified water, plasters and a bandage nearby – in case you would need them. Also it is recommended to know where in a hand the most important veins are located. The best way to learn it is to GOOGLE IT. This way, once your hands start bleeding, you will have both confidence and means to deal with an injury the right way…

Scarred hand veins

2  STAY CALM

Nasty hand injuries happen but unless they are located on the inside of your wrist, or you’ve just chopped off a finger – they shouldn’t pose an immediate threat. Sure, they are bloody to a point when you start to wander if death is what’s comming next – but hey – not a chance for that. In worst case scenario a nerve could’ve been damaged, but these tend to regenerate over time. So no matter what – keep calm and reasonable…

Scarred hand calm

3  FIRST AID

Once you’ve located the cut, make sure to clean-up the wound using purified water. (Do not use alcohol!). It is very important, especially due to workbenches being full of dust, sand, pieces of plastic and overall dirt – modelling leftovers. Once the wound is clean, use a piece of bandage or a plaster to cover it (Do not use cotton whool as it will stick to the wound making any later change of dressing difficult).  To help stop the bleeding keep the wounded hand up, pressing the bandaged wound with your free hand…

Scarred hand 1st aid

4  PROFESSIONAL HELP

Most wounds do not require professional assistance. Small cuts are rather easy to deal with, but sometimes – when things went bananas – it’s good to try and seek a Doctors help. Better to have a nasty wound sutured than to parade with a malformed finger to the rest of your days, especially if there’s a chance that hand’s basic functions are endangered (I know the latter from my own experience, as one of my fingers is almost out of the game). Be sure to call/visit a doctor ASAP if any of the below are true:

  • The wound won’t stop bleeding,
  • There is a tension in the wounded finger, you are unable to perform some movements,
  • You are unabple to straighten the finger/s,
  • You feel like some really crazy shit is going on with the wound and it should be cared by a pro,

Scarred hand help

 

MY OWN ADVENTURE:

During my time as a modeller I had my share of some really nasty injuries. The testimony of theese is left over my hands in form of scars. I even had one of my right hand’s knuckles damaged to a point of no turning back to it’s previous function. Still the most bloody of my hand injuries took place in 2011. I remember like if it was yesterday. A sunny day during a weekend with me working on the floor near my old workbench. I was preparing a series of terrain pieces for Warhammer Fantasy Battles ( Yup – there was such a game in the old days 😛 ). I was cutting some styrofoam into basic shape for hills. Done a lot of these and let routine take over. All of a sudden I felt a burning pain in my left thumb.

Scarred hand y

As it happened – I almost completely sliced off the entire top part of my thumb’s knuckle along with a piece of styrodure. At first there was no blood, only pain and a bit of ‘what the hell just happened?’. Moments later blood gushed from the wound. I thought that maybe I’ve injured some vital vein or something – there was a lot of blood, at least much more than ever before. Pressing the injury I’ve checked out google for any information about possibility of veins being in the vicinity of the wound. Fortunatelly for me I cut a knuckle along with it’s neighborhood, instead of slicing through the inner left part of the finger. So I’ve calmed down and cleaned up the wound. First using plain water (not so smart, but I’m hardcore when it comes to injuries – what doesn’t kill me, makes me stronger), then preparing a makeshift bandage…

Scarred hand 1(That looks nasty doesn’t it? That’s how a hand injury looks like – don’t let yourself be overwhelmed with panic once you cut yourself this way.)

I took things into my own hands (or rather hand, as the other one was currently out of commission) and prepared a special form of dressing for the injured finger. My reasoning went like this: I didn’t wanted to go to hospital, await for three to five hours to finally be stitched. I also wanted to keep my finger operational in the future (both near and distant). I wasn’t thinking smart, just followed modellers calling on this. I cut two splints out of a coca-cola bottle, desinfected them with alcohol and used a plaster to secure the finger with them. I also bandaged the wound itself and actually taped the entire construction. This dressing was to be switched couple of times a day – leaving more and more of the finger in the open so that the wound could breathe. The key point was for the wound to stay immobile, not to let it open and start bleeding again…

Scarred hand 2

This looks crazy funny when I see it now – but back then I was proud of my creations. Be it by a blessing or merely luck following idiots – it worked. Right now a scar is in the place of former wound, but at least the finger works fine and no nerve has been severed. It is fully operational with all it’s functions being kept.

Scarred hand 3

So – we’ve learned, we’ve laught – don’t do that at home etc. The final advice I can provide you with is once again – keep calm. Sooner or later an injury will happen to you – keep panic at bay and follow with the first aid. If you’ve prepared yourself beforehand – it will go much smoother and the wound would have a bigger chance to heal nicely.

 

Hope this one is helpful.

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REVIEW: HARDER & STEENBECK NOZZLE SET 0,2mm

An important thing that makes me use a Harder & Steenbeck airbrush is it’s quality.  I’ve been using Infinity  CR plus for around a year now and am really satisfied with it’s performance. Futhermore I can say that I love this Airbrush so much as to expand it’s set of needles and nozzles whenever I have an excuse to do so. But this is a review of a 0,2 mm Nozzle upgrade set, so I won’t let my overall sympathy for H&S cloud my judgement.

harder and steenbeck complaint 3

!  This article is made of two parts, first being rather a complaint about how this item was packed. If you want to see the actual performance review, scroll down to the second part...

PACKAGING:

The packaging of my brand new 0,2mm Nozzle upgrade set was the usual. A plastic tube, plugged at both sides and filled at some point with puffed-up foil separator. At one side was a nozzle along with a nozzle protector, and at the other the most fragile and delicate piece – a needle. At first glance it looked just fine…

harder and steenbeck complaint 2

But it was not! Take a closer look and you will see how badly packed this one was…

harder and steenbeck complaint 1

Uuuugh… This needle was totally out of commission. No way to even try to repair it. I was very dissapointed.

I quickly filled a complaint and sent it to the store that sold me this ‘thing’. Fortunatelly for me the item was purchased in one of my favorite stores, which is well known of being both solid and supportive. They quickly redirected my complaint to Harder & Steenbeck and soon after I got a needle replacement. If I am to give you advice at this point, that would be:

  • To purchase stuff in a reliable store,
  • To always check out the needle before unpacking,

PERFORMANCE:

Due to a basic needle protectors being rather open I’ve already damaged an unimaginable number of 0,15mm and 0,2mm needles, that’s why I tend to work with a strong 0,4mm one. 0,4 being my favorite by necessity, I’ve decided to use it in 0,2/0,4mm sets comparison.

Harder Steenbeck 02 Nozzle 04 close

It is a precise and smooth working nozzle, with needle being long but durable. For the purpose of the test I used Vallejo Magic Blue. Air preassure was set to 2 bars, while I’ve made some dots and lines. It wen’t a bit grainy, so a Thinner was added to the paint. More dots and lines, and here’s the result:

Harder Steenbeck 02 Nozzle 04 all

For me it’s the usual stuff with 0,4mm needle providing me with means to paint entire miniatures and some small spots as well. So I’ve changed to a smaller caliber, installing 0,2mm nozzle set. With Infinity CR Plus being user friendly, I was ready for action in merely moments. The needle was very fragile, but also well covered and set up much deeper than it’s 0,4mm counterpart. The important difference is also the fact that nozzle protector and needle protector are just one piece in this set. I couldn’t see the needle while working, but at the same time it was well protected from my clumsiness.

Harder Steenbeck 02 Nozzle 02 close

Once again I’ve made some dots and lines using Vallejo Magic Blue. The paint was flowing without issues. I’ve added a thinner and made some more dots and lines. I was under a big impression of how tiny and precise the dots were. Also lines were slim and nice. Here’s the result:

Harder Steenbeck 02 Nozzle 02 all

And a result using Vallejo Light Green on the actual miniature:

Harder Steenbeck 02 Nozzle 6

At this point you may also want to see the performance of both nozzle sets in a short Video:

SUMMARY:

In the end for an unexperienced airbrush user like me 0,2mm was a totally new experience. Also entire thing being just one part made it much easier to use baskwash to clear up the nozzle by delicately turning the  protector left and letting the air flow to within the paint container.

Harder Steenbeck 02 Nozzle backwash cleaning x

 

I’m very happy about this set. It not only lets me use a tiny needle without fear of it being damaged, but also makes it easier for me to use some cool features of Infinity CR Plus with it. My verdict is 9/10 – a very useful thing to add even more value to an already awesome airbrush.

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REVIEW: BRUSH CLASH TAMIYA vs CITADEL

Welcome to the Painting Arena! A fight the of century is before us! In the left corner we have a ‘Citadel Layer S’ brush! When it comes to painting miniatures this hobby brush is a Games Workshop’s bread and butter! Worth approximately 4,3 €, Citadel Layer S will be clashed against a cheaper Tamiya 87050. Tamiya’s approximate worth is only 3,4 € but it has a fighting spirit like no other! Which brush will emerge victorious? Which one will fall to oblivion? Buckle up and see for yourself…

Brush Clash Tamiya vs Citadel 5

I used a Infinity: Lunokhod miniature that could use some paint job to clash Citadel Layer S against Tamiya 87050. Both of these brushes had seen some action but not enough to be called a ‘veteran’. Let’s say that both were purchased recently and were used just couple of times before this clash. For the purpose of this article I used Games Workshop’s Mechrite Red. Till now I had no problems using this paint. It’s consistency let’s me paint constantly for a long period of time before I need to either clean or switch brushes. I started by applying Mechrite Red on one leg of the miniature – I used an unrelated brush for that, to check out the paint. It went good, so I switched to Citadel Layer S. This is how it looked after painting a single Lunokhod’s leg…

Brush Clash Tamiya vs Citadel 11

After only one part of the miniature entire brush turned into utter chaos. Hair behaved like if they really ‘wanted’ to disperse. I had a lot of difficulity covering the entire surface without moisting and reposing the brush (which I didn’t for the sake of this article).

Next in line was Tamiya 87050 and I’ve painted both rear legs with it before taking a picture…

Brush Clash Tamiya vs Citadel 12

As you can see Tamiya 87050 hair held ground and stayed composed. I wandered how long this brush can stay this way so I kept painting and painted entire Lunokhod without ever reposing brush’s tip. Here’s the result…

Brush Clash Tamiya vs Citadel 13

Tamiya 87050 stayed composed till the end. Must say that regardless of using Tamiya’s brushes for some time now – I was surprised to see it’s performance. Check out the video below to see how the clash proceeded…

RESULTS:

After long battle in which a lot of paint was spilled – Tamiya 87050 emerged a victor! Not only cheaper but much – MUCH – more durable and paint job friendly. The tip worked well throughout the entire process with hair flexible and pose reshaping itself. This kind of brush will surely provide you with comfort. Opposite to that Citadel Layer S failed after merely seconds of usage. It’s tip went berzerk the instant I started painting. I would never recommend this kind of brush for anything except washing or applying glue. I wander why I’ve tolerated this kind of brush’s behaviour till now… well it’s either trash or death in suicide mission for this one now. Will never purchase another Games Workshop’s brush again.

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TUTORIAL: REMOVING MOLD LINES

I’ve done a lot of scraping lately and at some point (inevitably) asked myself – why won’t I do a Tutorial about it? Many modellers struggle with metal miniatures, and especially their preparation. Some of my friends were even complaining about how thankless the task of scraping mold lines is for them, while in truth I find the process to be both simple and fast. But to be so – one must possess know how first…

I USED:

  • Modelling Knife,
  • Sharp edged File,
  • Round edged File,

Removing Moldlines 1

GRIP:

One of the most important things to remember in handling the Modelling Knife is the GRIP. I use a simple technique of holding the knife in the crook of my fingers while leaving the tumb free. The edge is always kept pointed outward (well, not always as I tend to cut my fingers far to often – but the basic rule holds).

Removing Moldlines grip

ANGLE:

We’ve already estabilished that the cutting edge should be pointed outward, but what angle to use? I found that the angle that works the best for me is something around 45 degree. It provides a smooth movement and is capable of removing thin mold lines. Some modellers like to keep their edge at a 90 degree angle as it tends to remove mold lines faster, but I must warn you that it usually ends up damaging the miniature’s surface. The friction is just too strong.

 

Removing Moldlines 2

Removing Moldlines 3

MOVEMENT:

You have a free thumb – why not use it? I like to to hold the miniature with my left hand, moving it around under the knife. I keep the thumb of my right hand on the miniature, applying preassure and using it as the point to which the knife will be moved. This way I have a perfect control over the speed and the angle of the knife.

Removing Moldlines 4

FILE:

Some modellers like to use files instead ofa  knife. It surely provides a smoother and more elegant surface, but takes much more time to accomplish, what knife does in merely seconds. I still use files in these two cases:

1  UNEVEN SURFACE

I use Sharp edged file each time an uneven surface like hair, refracted clothes, teeth of a chainblade etc. appears. I use long, smooth moves betwen the lines of the slot – usually one such move does the job of removing mold lines just fine.

Removing Moldlines 6

2  SMOOTHING

Once I’m done with the knife and Sharp edged file I use a Round edged file to smooth all the surface. My moves are light and fast, just brushing over the sides of the miniature.

Removing Moldlines 5

Here’s a quick video of how I do it:

And the end result (which you can actually see in much better quality in any of my galleries):

Removing Moldlines end

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FISHING BAG? RATHER A TOURNAMENT HOBBY BAG!

Guys – I have a nice story for you.

Today, just as usual, I was wandering around LIDL supermarket. I have my favorite route which goes something like ‘bread, vegetables, meat, milk, all the crazy sheeet section, cash-in’ and just when I got close to ‘all the crazy sheeet section’ I went numb. There was a basket full of HOBBY BAGS! I’ve seen many strange things in LIDL, including shoes, bikes, guitars, puzzle, tools – but to see a hobby bag was unexpected! I assaulted the basked and started digging through bags to find an opened one and check it out. As it happened it actually was a “Fishing Bag”, but still it looked so good, that I took a peak inside – and BOOM – there where fck’n hobby bitz boxes inside! And plenty of them too! My mind blown I checked the pricing and saw 25€. Soon later, with a smile splitting my face in two – I was walking home, with a new Hobby Bag under one arm…

Lidl Bag x1

For it’s price the bag is of a really good quality. When taking these pictures my mind was racing with the possibilities. All the future tournaments… all these segregated bitz…

Lidl Bag x2

Lidl Bag x3

Lidl Bag x4

Lidl Bag x5

Lidl Bag x6

Lidl Bag x7

I bet you feel it too… in your mind’s eye you see all the miniatures, tournament accessories and bitz being put into this awesome bag and boxes!

Lidl Bag 5

If you read TUTORIAL: 10 TIPS TO KEEP YOUR HOBBY SPACE ORGANIZED and GAMING TUTORIAL: INFINITY TOURNAMENT PREPARATION, you now that I’m a hobby bag freak, who likes to keep his stuff organized and miniatures zipped. My eyes filled with tears of joy when I layed eyes on this beauty while taking the pictures. I also went to check out if this one will be Infinity Tournament friendly…

Lidl Bag 1

Lidl Bag 2

Lidl Bag 3

Lidl Bag 4

 

It passed the test! So much space in the main body that both my Feldherr Mini plus tank and Feldherr Mini (in which I keep my miniatures) fit in.  There’s a special slot to keep the army list in. There are two side pockets to keep some sweets along with tape measures… one bigger pocket at the front to hold some additional stuff like cash and phone. This one is perfect for Infinity or other skirmish games… ‘fishing bag’ my ass!

LIDL you made my day once again…

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Nazroth

REVIEW: CORAX WHITE SPRAY

Not so long ago I was in the middle of painting gaming terrain for my Infinity Gaming Table. I used GW’s Skull White undercoat as this is the base colour for all the terrain. As you can imagine my stockpile of White was depleted pretty fast. In search of Skull White Spray I visited couple Online Stores, but everywhere I checked – Corax White was the only available ‘White’ undercoat. So I made my mind and ordered three cans. I received the package two days later – started undercoating right away… and was shocked with what I saw to a point where I just had to review Corax White.

review corax white 1

Properties

The first thing that I observed was the way in which Corax White covered the surface. It worked almost as good as Chaos Black Spray – producing a smooth and strong colour. This, in my opinion, makes Corax White a very user-friendly spray. Skull White in comparison is very difficult to use, producing a layer that is a bit translucent and tends to rumore like ‘hold fire button and forget’. I’m sure that Corax White will be great for some colour schemes, including Yellow, Orange, Pink, light Grey and a lot of others. It may even be good for White colour scheme – but here’s the surprise: Corax White is not ‘White’! It’s more like GW’s ‘Astronomican Grey’, or Vallejo ‘Pale Grey Blue’. Just take a look at the pictures:

review corax white 3

review corax white 4

You probably wornder ‘what the hell GW?’ right now. I was taken aback with this effect – more so, because I ordered three cans of that, so called, ‘White’ spray thus ending up with three cans of spray that is everything but White 🙂

Some more pictures – this time with Vallejo ‘Dead White’ applied to both caps:

review corax white 6

review corax white 5

At some angles Skull White is 1:1 match for the Dead White, while Corax not-White is something totally else.

Summary

So my final opinion about Corax White is as follows:

Games Workshop’s Corax White is a big step forward when it comes to coverage and way of applying the spray. It is very user friendly and may be used to achieve great results. Still removing Skull White from the offer while introducing Corax White was an unfair move – because Corax White IS NOT WHITE AT ALL.

Be aware before you happen to purchase!

For all those of you who happened to paint an entire army/project using Skull White and run out of stock in the process – I strongly recommend a purchase of Army Painter’s White Primer instead. It is a bit stronger than GW and the layer it produces is also less grainy – but atleast it’s WHITE!

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Nazroth

TUTORIAL: PREPARING A RESIN MINIATURE FOR UNDERCOAT

A miniature made of resin requires a special kind of treatment before it can undergo the undercoating. Here’s my way of preparing such miniatures:

VIDEO TUTORIAL:

I USED:

  • Toothbrush,
  • Cup,
  • Alcohol,
  • Soap,
  • Strainer,
  • Running water,

Resin 2

PROCEDURE:

1  Dip the miniature in alcohol and brush it gently using a toothbrush,

2  Using soap and toothbrush clean up the miniature,

3  Rinse the miniature under running water,

!  You can use a strainer to protect smaller pieces from falling in to the sink hole,

Check out my youtube channel for more video Tutorials…
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Nazroth
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