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PAINTING TUTORIALS

TUTORIAL: PAINTING ‘INFINITY’ BLACK

There’s probably as many recipes for painting black as there are painters all over the globe. On top of that there are many diffetrent  techniques to choose from. Painting a lot of detailed Infinity the Game miniatures, I have found one that works best for me. Today I would like to present to you a ‘Five Layers Technique‘ based colour scheme that I myself use.

First of all some home brew theory. Just like most colours – Black looks great when highlighted. Black surfaces make good impression, when we are able to see different overlaping layers and how colour works with natural curves and detail. For this purpose I always used grey to highlight and texturize black. This led to black effectively turning grey in the end, so I usually washed it with black inks/washes to deepen the ‘blackness’ in recesses and darken flat surfaces. That in turn lessened the highlights and flattened the entire impression. Here’s where I figured to follow wash with an edge ow white’ish colours to produce strong contrast and ‘pop’ the blackness.

I USED:

* Chaos Black Undercoat (GW),

* Skavenblight Dinge (GW),

* Fenrisian Grey (GW),

* Oallid Wych Flesh (GW),

* Dark Tone Ink (AP),

!  Important note: For this technique you don't need to re-paint entire surface with pure black. I use it on different, mixed colours - usually being previously airbrushed all over the miniature.

1  First I covered the entire target surface with Skavenblight Dinge. To fasten and ease the process I added a bit of watter to the paint. No need to cover everything with a strong layer - just smoother what's undeneath it with a nice dark grey.

2  Then I made some random strokes with Fenrisian Grey. Once again I dilluted the paint a bit, to make it more transparent. This layer provides texture and some irregularities to all the flat surfaces.

3  I then edged with Pallid Wych Flesh. I tend to edge only the natural sharp edges and some easy accessible spots. the most important are the ones on top of the surface I paint. Added some random scratches here and there too.

4  I then washed the entire thing black with AP's Dark tone Ink. (no picture)

5  Finally I edged once again with Pallid Wych Flesh. Added some more scratches. Job done.

That is the entire secret behing my Painting ‘Infinity’ Black technique. Fast and easy. Sure, no perfectly smooth transitions, no none metallic metal, but still a very rewarding result. With a bit of imagination and practice – this might be used as a perfect starting point for a much more complicated paint job. Hope it works for you.

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TUTORIAL: PAINTING MICRO ART STUDIO CONCRETE WALLS

SbS MAS Walls 1

Micro Art Studio does some fantastic paint job on their stuff. At some level it might even be considered a bit intimidating. Thoughts like ‘This stuff is amazing, but I will never be able to paint it anything like they did’ had kept me from purchasing some awesome terrain pieces in the past. I bet that some of you feel the same right now. Well – that is clearly a bad way of thinking. That’s why I prepared this small Step-by-step painting tutorial with which I hope to bring you closer to your ideal of a Gaming Table.

For this purpose I picked a Concrete Wall Set 2 by Micro Art Studio and tried to copy their style with a small variation of the colour scheme.

I USED:

  • Airbrush, (Harder & Steinbeck Infinity CR plus 0,4mm nozzle)
  • Small brush,
  • Mechanicus Standard Grey (GW) Undercoat,
  • Airbrush Flow Improver (Vallejo ),
  • White (Vallejo) Surface Primer,
  • Light Brown (Vallejo Game Air),
  • Soft Tone Ink (Army Painter),
  • Light Livery Green (Vallejo Game Air),
  • Waywatcher Green (GW) Glaze,
  • Streaking Grime (AK Interactive) Weathering effect,

 

SbS MAS Walls 2

SbS MAS Walls 3

1  After unpacking the set I have cleared any extent of resin and prepared each piece for the undercoat.

I used THIS METHOD

SbS MAS Walls layer 1 GW Mechanicus Standard Grey

2  I have covered entire set with Games Workshop's Mechanicus Standard Grey primer. Usually I use Black Undercoat first, but in this case the surface was smooth and I knew it will work well with a Grey undercoat. Do not feel obliged to use the exact same primer - you can easily use Vallejo Grey Surface Primer instead and Airbrush it over the surface. I used spray just to save some time.

SbS MAS Walls layer 2 Vallejo White Primer

3  I gently arbrushed Vallejo White Surface Primer over the set. First I tried to cover entire surface from afar (15cm distance, constant flow, see pic - dark spots), then I outlined center of each flat surface with additional layers (5cm distance, soft puffs of paint, see pic - light spots). This resulted in the surfaces gaining some extra shadows.

SbS MAS Walls layer 3 Vallejo Light Brown

4  I used airbrush to apply Vallejo Light Brown onto the lower parts of each Wall piece. I mixed a bit of Airbrush Flow Improver to build up a nice transition from brown to white. The key is to paint in smooth lines, then go backwards building up colour. Too much paint in the same spot will result in paint spilling all around and ruining the paint job.

SbS MAS Walls layer 4 AP Soft Tone Ink

5  Then I moved to Army Painter's Soft Tone Ink and airbrushed it over Light Brown, with an addition of single strokes over the recesses of four oval Wall pieces. I was careful not to apply too much paint as in this particular case I wanted to build up a nice hume of colour, instead of 'washing' the surface with it.

SbS MAS Walls layer 5 Vallejo Light Livery Green copy

6  Then I applied a thin layer of Vallejo Light Livery Green over and around each lamp. A lot of small puffs of paint helped me to keep the base shape of light around the lamps. Even if one or two puffs went too far, they were so delicate as to remain unseen once the majority of colour was applied.

SbS MAS Walls layer 6 GW Waywatcher Green copy

7  To strenghten the colour I used a small brush and applied Games Workshop's Waywacher Green onto the lamps. I tried not to exeed the boundries of their slots and in case I did - I used a small piece of paper towel to clear the paint out.

SbS MAS Walls layer 7 AK streaks

8  Finally I applied AK Interactive Streaking Grime. Using a small brush I poured this weathering effect paint into holes, then smeared it dow with a tip of the brush. The more irregular it went, the better to the overall visual effect.

In the end I used a template provided by Reycast to airbrush a small Nomad prank onto the wall, with a Vallejo Black Paint. What’s left now is to purchase Micro Art Studio’s S-F Graffiti Transfers and job will be done.

Here is a result of my paint job:

Micro Art Studio concrete walls set 1

Micro Art Studio concrete walls set 2

Micro Art Studio concrete walls set 3

 

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TUTORIAL: PAINTING DESERT ROCK BASES

Below is a quick five-colour Step-by-step about painting rocky desert bases. I used this method to base a big army of wh40k Tau – be sure to see the end results in GALLERY: WARHAMMER 40,000 TAU lvl 3

I USED:

  • Airbrush,
  • Large flat brush,
  • Regular brush,
  • Black undercoat,
  • German Red Brown (Vallejo) Surface Primer,
  • Earth (Vallejo Game Air),
  • Light Brown (Vallejo Model Air),
  • European Dust (Vallejo Wash),
  • Flayed One Flesh (GW),

 

Desert Rock Bases 2

1  I have undercoated (Airbrush) the entire base with Black paint. To properly undercoat the jagged edges of cork I've added some water to the plack paint and then used a Large flat brush to apply the mixture over this surface.

Desert Rock Bases 3

2  I have airbsrushed German Red Brown onto the entire base. It does not had to be precise, just enought to cover the cork and some bigger flats of sand.

Desert Rock Bases 4

3  Still using airbrush I've applied Earth colour over the surface. This time I ensured that some areas of the cork will be less covered than the others. The process was almost random - just picked some spots to have more paint.

Desert Rock Bases 5

4  Light Brown followed, being airbrushed over the base. Once again I tried to cover some spots better than the others. This time tho I tried not to paint over sand too much, just some delicate puffs of paint.

Desert Rock Bases 6

5  Once the paint was utterly dry I sprayed European Dust over the entire base. The layer had to be thin, just enought to cover the base without leaving any stains.

Desert Rock Bases 7

6  Lastly I used a large flat brush to drybrushed the entire base with Flayed One Flesh. Once it was done I also edged some major edges of the cork with the same colour. Clean black rant of the base followed.

Desert Rock Bases 8

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TUTORIAL: PAINTING WHITE

Two weeks ago I was participating in a tournament of Infinity the Game. Somewhere between games I chated with fellow hobbyist and as the topic moved to miniatures he asked me about my Infinity Corregidor’s white. What made him curious was how solid and actually ‘white’ that colour was. I started explaining and before I finished – a group of players was standing around and listening to my recipe. I then realised that a lot of painters struggle with white as it is not an easy colour to achieve. A common mistake is to paint layer after layer of pure white as usually all the irregularities made with first layer will still be visible.

So here’s what I have observed about white paint: White has a lot of pigment which is the reason for building irregularities on the painted surface. These irregularities lead to a formation of strong white points in contrast with all the area where white is not so strong at first. It does not matter how many layers we provide as a difference between these two will be visible for long after the painted surface looses all the detail. So I figured that in order to build a nice and strong white colour there should be a small number of thin layers. But how to achieve a perfect whiteness with only few layers? The answer to that question is below…

Hacker 1

I USED:

* Chaos Black Undercoat (GW),

* Pallid Wych Flesh (GW),

* White,

* Matt Varnish (AP),

white 1

1  I applied Pallid Wych Flesh (GW) onto the surface. This layer is usually dirty and full of smudges. Black undercoat is also visible undernath it but I don't care. The key factor is to keep this layer thin so I blurredany accumulated paint with my brush adding a tiny bit of water (I used a Citadel Basecoat brush to be precise).

white 3

2  Next in line was a 1/1 mix of Pallid Wych Flesh (GW) and White. Once again I tried to keep the paint thin without adding any water. Just used the tip of the brush to clear any irregularities of paint. This layer has a lot of white's pigment, further enchanced by Pallid Wych Flesh so it should be easy to obtain a solid colour at this point - still not 'white' tho.

white 4

3  Third layer follows the same rules as the first one. I kept a thin layer of pure white mixed with a tiny bit of water.

white 5

!  You can repeat this layer to make sure the whiteness is 'perfect' before proceeding to the next one...

4  To further smoothe the surface I used Matt Varnish. It solidified the 'whiteness' of my layers but I had to be very careful due to Varnish's tendention of drawing small hair and dust fragments. After applying this layer I put the miniature into a small plastic box so that no dusty trash will land on it while it dries out.

white 6

That’s it – that’s the whole secret of pure and strong white.

I had a lot of difficulities taking proper pictures so please treat these pics as not entirely true – I have these pieces before me and there’s a lot of colour difference between balls 1st to 4th, and some difference in smoothness between 4th and 5th. Still you now know the recipe and it should work for you just as it works for me 🙂

white 7

 

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TUTORIAL: PAINTING MARBLE

Below is a quick and easy technique of painting marble using a limited palette of paints.

Introduction: Painting marble using this method does not require precision nor a variety of unusual skills. It is quite effective and bereft of any extensive cons. The pros of this technique are as follows:

– fast,
– simple,
– easy to learn,
– cheap*

* assuming you already have an airbrush or spray gun – if not, I have posted a solution in the end of the article.

marmur 9

I USED:

* Chaos Black Undercoat (GW),
* German Red Brown (Vallejo Surface Primer)

!  Doombull Brown (GW) or Dark Flesh (GW) and actually any dark brown will do.

* White (Vallejo Air),
* Dark Tone Ink (AP),
* Strong Tone Ink (AP),
* Soft Tone Ink (AP),
* Gloss Varnish (Vallejo),
* Steel Wool,

1  I undercoated the surface using Black Undercoat (GW),

marmur 1

2  The first proper layer was German Red Brown (Vallejo). I used Airbrush to cover all of the 'marble' surface with it.

marmur 2

3  I took a piece of Steel Wool and made a marble template out of it by pulling and stretching a small piece of it. I used the template and airbrushed all with White.

marmur 3

Here’s an example of how it was done:

x1

4  Using Dark Tone Ink (AP) and thin brush I marked out some major lines of the marble. I also used water to dilute the paint and used the mixture one side of some major lines.

marmur 4

5  Using large brush I made random stains of Strong Tone Ink (AP) and then before it dried I've genlty touched it with piece of paper towel.

marmur 5

6  I washed all using Soft Tone Ink (AP).

marmur 6

7  I built contrast in the recesses using Dark Tone Ink (AP) diluted with a bit of water.

marmur 7

8  Finally I glossed whole surface with Gloss Varnish (Vallejo) to give it a nice shine of polished marble and deepen the colours difference.

marmur 8

ALTERNATIVE METHOD

For those who lack Airbrush: Forget about steel wool, and proceed through steps 1-3 without it. during step 3 apply white paint using brush but before it dries out use a wet toothpick to draw soft, thin lines. You may need to use couple of layers of white in the spots you like it to be strong. Afterwards just follow the tutorial to it’s finale 😉

Hope you like and will use this method. If so – feel invited to post thew link to some pictures here for the benefit of other hobbyists.

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TUTORIAL: PAINTING ‘FIVE LAYERS’ METAL

Here is a Step-by-step guide of how to paint metal with ‘Five Layers Technique’.

Introduction: Five Layers Technique is easy to learn, simple and rewarding. You can apply almost any colour with it. It may be used both as an Army Paining method or a groundwork for much more advanced paintjob. I personally use this technique most of the time. To learn more please visit: TUTORIAL: ‘FIVE LAYERS TECHNIQUE’

Colour Recipe:

Black undercoat,
Tin Bitz (GW) / Warplock Bronze (GW) / Blighted Gold (P3)
Boltgun Metal (GW) / Gun Metal (AP)
Mithril Silver (GW) /  Shining Silver (AP)
Devlan Mud (wash GW) / Strong Tone (shade AP)
Mithril Silver (GW) /  Shining Silver (AP)

!   You can exchange particular paint for any substitute as long as you keep colour intensity close.

Basics:

Use Black undercoat. The first layer of metal should be painted Tin Bitz. The paintjob must be as thorough as possible, paint should be delivered into recesses but be sure to keep all the details sharp. You can add some water to ease the process. Next, using Boltgun Metal paint all the protruding and flat areas leaving Tin Bitz visible in recesses and near the edges. Using Mithril Silver paint edges, centres of flat areas and all the bulges. Wash all with Devlan Mud (wash a lot). In the end just edge all with Mithril Silver. You can also paint some small scratches and lines in the middle of flat areas.

This picture shows exactly how layers should overlap each other.

1

Example:

Black undercoat,2

Tin Bitz thorough layer,3

Boltgun Metal (scruffy),4

Mithril Silver bulges, protuberances, flat middles,5

Devlan Mud wash (a lot),6

Dried out Devlan Mud,7

Mithril Silver edges, lines, middles,8

Tut x

You should end up with a quick and easy way of painting metal thath both shines with light reflexes and has a nice overall facture. Hope you enjoyed this tutorial.

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TUTORIAL: ‘FIVE LAYERS TECHNIQUE’

Here is a technique that I have developed through years of painting and find it most usefull up to this day.

Introduction:

Five Layers Technique is a basic technique of choosing and applying colours. I especially reccomend it for begginers as it is simple, easy to learn, fast and rewarding. You can apply almost every colour using this technique and achieve good results as long as you choose proper paints to do so. It is especially good for either painting entire army ‘tabbletop level’ or preparing a miniature for much more complex paintjob.

The main concept of Five Layers Technique is to paint different colours using five layers of paint. Starting with a foundation layer, covered with base layer, finished with highlights, all being washed and edged. Here’s an example of how does it look like when finished:

Yu Jing 9

Choosing colours:

It does not matter if you have a steady hand and a lot of patience – if you pick your paints badly this method will not work. Choosing proper colours is the key to succeed. The colours should pe picked in this order:

* Base layer: pick up a medium tone colour,
* Foundation layer: choose darked version of the base colour,
– The exception to this rule is if you would like to keep the colour bright such as bone, vibrant purple, creme, yellow, etc. In this case a little bit brighter, preferrably pastelle foundation colour will do.
* Finish layer: choose a brighter version of the base colour.
– Try to keep it the same distance as it is between Base and Foundation layer.
* Wash layer: use either same colour wash or brown.
–  Brown wash fits in most cases. Be aware tho – it will do much damage if you pair it with pink, purple, violet or white.

Here’s and example of a proper layer set:

five layer technique 2

Applying colours:

Let’s talk about how to apply choosen colours. There are some rules that must be followed. Below is the order and all the important leads:

– Foundation layer: Must be painted thoroghly. Paint should be delivered into recesses and cover all the flat areas, in the same time it must be kept from obscuring details too much. Some water may be added to the paint to ease the process.

– Base layer: May be painted scruffy and without dedication. Paint should be applied to all the flat areas and bulges leaving some of the Founation layer visible around it. Protruding areas should be ‘base’ covered wholly. I susually use flat brush for this layer to quicken the process and leave some Foundation layer visible without effort.

– Finish layer: Is the hardest part. Only protruding elements, central parts of flat and bulged areas should be covered. Some ‘edging’ may be done but next layer will render it almost invisible.

– Wash layer: Is the easy part. A lot of wash should be applied onto efery surface with no regard for details. Medium brush is good for the job as brushes too small won’t keep a lot of wash in them.

– Finish layer: Goes once again. Only protruding elements, central parts of flat and bulged areas should be covered but some parts of previous Finish layer should stay visible. At this point ‘edging’ is desirable.

Here’s a step-by-step example of this method:

five layer technique

That’s it 🙂 Below are some colours recepee examples for this tutorial:

flt 1
Foundation: Khorne Red (GW), Karak Stone (GW), Xereus Purple (GW), Tausept Ochre (GW), Stegadon Scale Green (GW), Regal Blue (GW),

flt 2
Base: Wazdakka Red (GW), Skeleton Bone (AP), Liche Purple (GW), Golden Yellow (GW), Hawk Turquise (GW), Ultramarine Blue (GW),

flt 3
Finish: Wild Rider Red (GW), Skeleton Bone (AP) + White, Genestealer Purple (GW), Golden Yellow (GW) + White, Hawk Turquise (GW) + White, Lothern Blue (GW),

flt 4
Wash: Red Tone Ink (AP), Strong Tone Ink (AP, Purple Ink (AP), Seraphim Sepia (GW), Turquise Ink (P3), Blue Tone Ink (AP),

flt 5
This how it looks like when Wash dries up,

flt 6
Final Finish: Wild Rider Red (GW), Skeleton Bone (AP) + White, Genestealer Purple (GW), Golden Yellow (GW) + White, Hawk Turquise (GW) + White, Lothern Blue (GW),

I hope you’ve enjoyed this tutorial and found it helpful.

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TUTORIAL: PAINTING NOMAD RED ARMOUR

Here is a Step-by-step guide of how to paint Infinity Nomad Red Armour – Scar_hand Painting’s style 🙂

A complete Recipee used to paint my Infinity Nomads may be found in COLOUR RECIPEES: INFINITY NOMADS. You can also find some additional pictures in the NOMADS: CORREGIDOR lvl 4,5 Gallery.

Colour Recipe:

* GW Standard Brush,
* Tamiya Modeling Brush HG,
* AP Wargamer: The Psycho,
* GW Chaos Black Undercoat,
* GW Mechrite Red, (When this one runs out i’ll switch to P3 Formula ‘Sanguine Base’ instead),
* GW Wazdakka Red,
* AP Skeleton Bone,
* White,
* AP Strong Tone Ink,
* AP Red Tone Ink,

1  I used Chaos Black spray to undercoat the model. I usually do this by applying eight layers of undercoat from eight different angles (four at the front and four at the back of the model, each at the same 45* angle with one directed up, one down, one left and one right side of the model).

2  The first layer of Red was made with Standard Brush and Mechrite Red. I tried not to fill the recesses too much and to cover all buldes smoothly.

red 1

3  I switched to Tamiya Modeling Brush and applied Wazdakka Red to all bulges and flat surfaces of the armour, leaving cavities Mechrite Red'ed. This madethe armour look more smooth and ready to be highlighted.

red 2

4  I applied a 50%/50% mix of Wazdakka Red and Skeleton Bone in the middle and on the edges of particular surfaces.

red 3

5  I added White to the Wazdakka/Skeleton mix and further lined the model.

red 4

6  More White was added to the mix and another layer of lines and points was made.

red 5

7  I switched back to Standard Brush and washed the armour with Strong Tone Ink.

red 6

8  I switched to The Psycho to add some Skeleton Bone/White lining in the key points of the armour.

red 7

9  I switched to Tamiya Modeling Brush and washed the armour with Red Tone Ink.

red 8

9  Oops! I did it again washing all the armour with Red Tone Ink to finally finish it.

red 9

Hope that you find this little tut useful and that you will post some pictures of miniatures painted this way 😉

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TUTORIAL: CONCRETE BASES part 2: Painting

Here is the painting guide for my Infinity Concrete bases.

Each painter has his own ways to paint metal and any gadgets that would be put on a base so i will only describe how to obtain browny-rusty-edged effect of the main body of the base.

I USED:

* Games Workshop Large/Medium Drybrush
* Basecoat Brush,
* GW Adeptus Battlegray (foundation),
* GW Devlan Mud (wash) / Army Painter Sttrong Tone (ink), do not use GW Agrax Earthshade – it sucks!
* GW Scorched Brown,
* GW Calthan Brown (foundation),
* GW Ryza Rust (dry),
* GW Lugganath Orange (edge),
* GW Flayed One flesh (edge),

1  I assume that the base was undercoated with black colour. Apply Adeptus Battlegray using Basecoat Brush. Do it twice if necessary so that grey layer covers black undercoat completely.

1

2  Use wash brush, or any soft hairs brush to paint whole base with Devlan Mud (or AP's Strong Tone). Once again i will recommend to do it a second time once the first layer is dry. More stains and blobs of paint - the better.

2

3  Apply Scorched Brown onto most accessible spaces using Large Dry Brush. Do it with stippling technique (brush is held upright and pressed mutliple times onto the base at 90* angle).

3

4  Apply Calthan Brown using the same brush and technique but try to cover less space than before so that you will be able to see some Scorched Brown stains through Calthan Brown layer.

4

5  Now it's time for Ryza Rust, once more same brush, technique and try to cover less space, but this time you may cross the border of Scroched Brown - it won't do much harm.

5

6  And yet again: same brush, technique and try to cover less space but this time use Lugganath Orange. Be aware as this colour has less pigment than Calthan Brown or Ryza Rust. I'll recommend that you dry your brush with paint on it before stippling.

6

7  This is the last layech of stippling: use Large Dry Brush and the stippling technique to apply Flayed One Flesh. After that just highlight some edges with Flayed One Flesh and the work is done.

Nomad Moran 1

The bases i used for this painting guide are just some flat bitz of plasticard so the effect is not the same with bases of my Miniatures. You will see the difference when painting pre-modelled bases with lots of bitz, uneven surface and rants painted black which will bring some contrast to the colour scheme in the end. Hope you find this tutorial helpful and interesting.

Be sure to check out another part of this tutorial at: INFINITY CONCRETE BASES TUTORIAL part 1: Modelling

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