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Author Archives: Nazroth

TUTORIAL: 10 TIPS TO KEEP YOUR HOBBY SPACE ORGANIZED

The end times are upon us! Well maybe not upon ‘us’, still we will say ‘good bye’ to year 2015 pretty soon. I’ve figured that this will be the best time to start cleaning the Workbench. Usually I practice  small cleanups between commissions but it’s good to do some grand cleaning once in a while. And when I say ‘grand’ I mean throwing everything to the floor, cleaning it and then puting it back to it’s righteous place. All of that sounds like a real ‘paint in the trass’ but believe me – it is not that big of a deal. To help me out with organizing my working space thus speeding up the process of cleaning I try to go by these ten practical rules:

1) ‘Keep your tools in one place’
I try to keep all of my none-brush tools in one place. A single HobbyZone Modular Brush &Tool Organizer is a wonderful gadget to keep the tools in but before I got one I just used a metal can. I also preffer not to keep the tolls locked in a drawer. It is easier to see the tools all the time and just pick the right one instead of romp in a drawer.

narzędzia
2) ‘Keep the water sheltered’
I used to keep water in two Games Workshop’s water pots but after I spilled it all over the workbench for a thousandth time I went to a local supermarket and spent that 2€ on a bowl with solid cover. It keeps the water clean without the need to change it every couple of hours, stops evaporation and most of all it prevents me of spilling water during cleanups.
I still use GW’s water pots but not within the bounds of their designation.

woda
3) ‘Prioritize your brushes’
Once a hobbyist is strongly into painting the brushes collection expands to an enormous size. The reasons are many. Brushes tend to get damaged, get old and shaggy and some are being repurposed after a period of time. It is good to keep the ‘priority’ brush set as a whole and apart from the rest. For example in a special organizer or a can so that it can be moved to other places without the need to split it. Once a priority set is estabilished you will be able to draw a brush from it without considering if it’s of good condition. (That is if You are keeping the priority brush set updated).

pędzle
4) ‘Segregate your projects…’
I know the looks of a stockpile of miniatures at different stages of paintjob being thrown all over my desk. Utter chaos and lack of organization resulted in some projects being pushed ‘for another time’. Sometimes it took years to finally get to work on a particular project. Nowadays I tend to keep all of my future projects (both commissions and my private collection stuff)  ordered and organized in separate boxes. I keep all of them at sight as it lets me plan a probable execution queue and keeps me motivated 🙂 I recommend to purchase some cheap, clear, plastic kitchen containers. Once again a local supermarket is a good place to look for these. The ones in the picture costed me less than 8€ for a complete set of 25.

Projekty
5) ‘…also segregate your hobby materials’
Kitchen paper, plasticard, small rocks, pieces of cloth, modelling sand, pieces of cork, airbrush cleaners, toothpicks, sealing tape, cardboard, plastic sprues, static grass, etc… all the imaginable sizes and purposes of stuff! All of it should be kept in a rather orderly manner. I recommend some clear containers once more, much bigger this time tho 🙂 Some similar sized boxes are a good idea too, especially if you have a locker to keep them in.

posypkimateriały zapasowe
6) ‘Set a MUST STAY CLEAR zone’
This should be a priority. In my case a ‘must stay clear’ zone is an exact space where I work. That doesn’t mean I keep the spot clear all the time, just clear it up each time I finish working. I use a PlayMat to mark the space and to ease the cleaning process. (All the shavings, little trash, dust, sand grains etc. may be cleared out with a single swipe to a trash can.)

mata
7) ‘Zip your bitz’
If I’d only done this when I used to play Lego blocks. Bitz and miniature parts are not so much different than Lego. They too have a variety of shapes, value, purposes, rarity and belong to certain sets and themes. The best way to keep your bitz in order is to segregate and keep them zipped in clear bags. It also speeds up the process of finding particular pieces on demand. I know – it sounds rather discouraging but once it is properly done it will stay that way for years to come.

bitz worybitz pudło
8) ‘Keep the stock low’
Probably the grievest hobby mistake I ever made was to accumulate an enormous stock of reserve paints. Many times I bought out a bunch of paints to be certain I will have a decade’s stock of it. For example when Games Workshop announced a new colour palette and after that when some of the new colours happened to be useful. Allright – when a paint you tend to use on your huge army runs out of production it is a mighty blow to the guts, still there’s plenty of paint producers in the market. Almost every paint has it’s counterpart from a different producer. Keeping stocks low is worth the risk as once you decide to change your techniques or switch to other paints hugo reserve stock will laught in your face. I know what I’m saying 😉

zapasy
9) ‘Do not afraid to say goodbye’
When you tend to not use a particular thing for a really long time – it probably means that you will do much better without it. Escpecially when it comes to particular paint colours or used up brushes. Think of them as thing that take up space and disorganize your working place.
[WARNING] Do not trash these things tho! There’s probably a nice local hobby store where kids learn of how to paint – your shaggy brush is theirs ‘dream come true undercoater’!

nie wyrzucaj
10) ‘Keep it regular’
Cleaning should be a natural habit. Cleanups are best performed regularly as otherwise you risk growing lazy and overcomed with mess. The more often you do them the less time consuming it will be.

regular

So now go and clean up your workbench! Take a picture of it after you’re done cause next week it might prove helpful – a christmas giveaway in form of a nice and rare miniature will go to one of the hobbyists who’ll happen to shows me their clean and organized hobby workbenches.

Nazroth

“NOMAD SOUL” SPECIAL PROJECT

 Second ‘Special Project’ in 2015! It was emerging between my thoughts once in a while for some time before I was finally motivated to work on it. The crucial point for me was to accidentally bump into an online Painting Contest at Data-Sphere forum. I already had the concept and materials to make this piece so an opportunity for a nice competition was the final push I needed.

This time I choose a Nomad miniature as a centerpiece of the Diorama. It is my favorite faction in Infinity the Game, and the Grenzer model I’ve picked just ‘screamed’ to let him ride that awesome haqqislamic bike. The pose was almost right if only I done something with the coat and the only thing holding me at bay was a pair of hands. In the end I used original Sniper Rifle left hand of a Grenzer, Shotgun right hand of a Jagguar and stripped a Spektr of both arms.PanOceanic antennae was added and after rearrangement of the pose some Green Stuff Sculpting had done the rest.

A ‘concept art’ which shows my overpowering drawing skills.

WIP nomad soul 2

First step was to arrange the miniature on a bike.

WIP nomad soul 1

Some conversion and Greenstuff sculpting.

WIP nomad soul 3

WIP nomad soul 4

Next step was to create a diorama thus fulfilling my mind’s eye concept. I’ve picked a nice candle for a diorama’s base and starterd to work with main arrangement of things…

Preparation of diorama.

WIP nomad soul 5

Basics of diorama and miniature composiotion.

WIP nomad soul 8

WIP nomad soul 6

WIP nomad soul 7

Facture added.

WIP nomad soul 9

Then came the ‘Painting Time’. Usually I start by painting the miniature but this particular project was an exception. I’ve started with diorama instead to be certain that in the end I will be able to paint it correctly. Painting rust and dust is still new to me.

Diorama paintjob in progress.

WIP nomad soul 11

WIP nomad soul 13

WIP nomad soul 12

Once I was sattisfied with diorama’s result I’ve focused all of my attention on the miniature. I tried to begin in accordance with Angel Giraldez’s online Kum Bike tutorial and it wen’t rather off at some point. Still I was able to create something unexpected and extraoridinary if compared to my other miniatures.

The actual miniature preshaded and with red armour in midpainting.

WIP nomad soul 14

WIP nomad soul 15

Something to look like NMM appeared on the bike. Armour lined and shades appplied.

WIP nomad soul 16

WIP nomad soul 17

WIP nomad soul 18

Closing to finish line I’ve figured that something went really wrong. I couldn’t pinpoint the cause – just felt taken aback while observing the pice. It took me half a day of painting different miniatures to finally understand: The diorama sucked! It was a total disaster! There was not enough space for the biker which was posed so that only a small part was visible. Black rant of the base made too much bad contrast while the candle… oh the candle justed didn’t fit…
It went wrong in the forums too as I was told that my ‘OSL looks more like a nuclear blast’ to which I actually agreed…

Bad – bad diorama… bad nuclear blast…

WIP nomad soul 19

WIP nomad soul 20

WIP nomad soul 21

WIP nomad soul 22

I’ve made my mind then and remade the diorama totally. I cut the stuff into pieces which I used to create foundation for another ‘faster, harder, better, stronger’ diorama. This time I picked a much more suitable base for it too. I also fallowed an advice of Claudius Sol and dimmed the OSL.

Diorama cut and rebased.

WIP nomad soul 23

WIP nomad soul 24

WIP nomad soul 26

At some point the diorama needed just the final touches.

WIP nomad soul 25

WIP nomad soul 27

Here’s the final piece: “NOMAD SOUL”

Nomad Soul 1 s

Nomad Soul 4 s

Nomad Soul 7 s

Nomad Sould night 2

View complete Gallery… Like/Don’t like? Vote at CoolMiniOrNot…
Nazroth

TUTORIAL: PAINTING ‘FIVE LAYERS’ METAL

Here is a Step-by-step guide of how to paint metal with ‘Five Layers Technique’.

Introduction: Five Layers Technique is easy to learn, simple and rewarding. You can apply almost any colour with it. It may be used both as an Army Paining method or a groundwork for much more advanced paintjob. I personally use this technique most of the time. To learn more please visit: TUTORIAL: ‘FIVE LAYERS TECHNIQUE’

Colour Recipe:

Black undercoat,
Tin Bitz (GW) / Warplock Bronze (GW) / Blighted Gold (P3)
Boltgun Metal (GW) / Gun Metal (AP)
Mithril Silver (GW) /  Shining Silver (AP)
Devlan Mud (wash GW) / Strong Tone (shade AP)
Mithril Silver (GW) /  Shining Silver (AP)

!   You can exchange particular paint for any substitute as long as you keep colour intensity close.

Basics:

Use Black undercoat. The first layer of metal should be painted Tin Bitz. The paintjob must be as thorough as possible, paint should be delivered into recesses but be sure to keep all the details sharp. You can add some water to ease the process. Next, using Boltgun Metal paint all the protruding and flat areas leaving Tin Bitz visible in recesses and near the edges. Using Mithril Silver paint edges, centres of flat areas and all the bulges. Wash all with Devlan Mud (wash a lot). In the end just edge all with Mithril Silver. You can also paint some small scratches and lines in the middle of flat areas.

This picture shows exactly how layers should overlap each other.

1

Example:

Black undercoat,2

Tin Bitz thorough layer,3

Boltgun Metal (scruffy),4

Mithril Silver bulges, protuberances, flat middles,5

Devlan Mud wash (a lot),6

Dried out Devlan Mud,7

Mithril Silver edges, lines, middles,8

Tut x

You should end up with a quick and easy way of painting metal thath both shines with light reflexes and has a nice overall facture. Hope you enjoyed this tutorial.

Nazroth

TUTORIAL: ‘FIVE LAYERS TECHNIQUE’

Here is a technique that I have developed through years of painting and find it most usefull up to this day.

Introduction:

Five Layers Technique is a basic technique of choosing and applying colours. I especially reccomend it for begginers as it is simple, easy to learn, fast and rewarding. You can apply almost every colour using this technique and achieve good results as long as you choose proper paints to do so. It is especially good for either painting entire army ‘tabbletop level’ or preparing a miniature for much more complex paintjob.

The main concept of Five Layers Technique is to paint different colours using five layers of paint. Starting with a foundation layer, covered with base layer, finished with highlights, all being washed and edged. Here’s an example of how does it look like when finished:

Yu Jing 9

Choosing colours:

It does not matter if you have a steady hand and a lot of patience – if you pick your paints badly this method will not work. Choosing proper colours is the key to succeed. The colours should pe picked in this order:

* Base layer: pick up a medium tone colour,
* Foundation layer: choose darked version of the base colour,
– The exception to this rule is if you would like to keep the colour bright such as bone, vibrant purple, creme, yellow, etc. In this case a little bit brighter, preferrably pastelle foundation colour will do.
* Finish layer: choose a brighter version of the base colour.
– Try to keep it the same distance as it is between Base and Foundation layer.
* Wash layer: use either same colour wash or brown.
–  Brown wash fits in most cases. Be aware tho – it will do much damage if you pair it with pink, purple, violet or white.

Here’s and example of a proper layer set:

five layer technique 2

Applying colours:

Let’s talk about how to apply choosen colours. There are some rules that must be followed. Below is the order and all the important leads:

– Foundation layer: Must be painted thoroghly. Paint should be delivered into recesses and cover all the flat areas, in the same time it must be kept from obscuring details too much. Some water may be added to the paint to ease the process.

– Base layer: May be painted scruffy and without dedication. Paint should be applied to all the flat areas and bulges leaving some of the Founation layer visible around it. Protruding areas should be ‘base’ covered wholly. I susually use flat brush for this layer to quicken the process and leave some Foundation layer visible without effort.

– Finish layer: Is the hardest part. Only protruding elements, central parts of flat and bulged areas should be covered. Some ‘edging’ may be done but next layer will render it almost invisible.

– Wash layer: Is the easy part. A lot of wash should be applied onto efery surface with no regard for details. Medium brush is good for the job as brushes too small won’t keep a lot of wash in them.

– Finish layer: Goes once again. Only protruding elements, central parts of flat and bulged areas should be covered but some parts of previous Finish layer should stay visible. At this point ‘edging’ is desirable.

Here’s a step-by-step example of this method:

five layer technique

That’s it 🙂 Below are some colours recepee examples for this tutorial:

flt 1
Foundation: Khorne Red (GW), Karak Stone (GW), Xereus Purple (GW), Tausept Ochre (GW), Stegadon Scale Green (GW), Regal Blue (GW),

flt 2
Base: Wazdakka Red (GW), Skeleton Bone (AP), Liche Purple (GW), Golden Yellow (GW), Hawk Turquise (GW), Ultramarine Blue (GW),

flt 3
Finish: Wild Rider Red (GW), Skeleton Bone (AP) + White, Genestealer Purple (GW), Golden Yellow (GW) + White, Hawk Turquise (GW) + White, Lothern Blue (GW),

flt 4
Wash: Red Tone Ink (AP), Strong Tone Ink (AP, Purple Ink (AP), Seraphim Sepia (GW), Turquise Ink (P3), Blue Tone Ink (AP),

flt 5
This how it looks like when Wash dries up,

flt 6
Final Finish: Wild Rider Red (GW), Skeleton Bone (AP) + White, Genestealer Purple (GW), Golden Yellow (GW) + White, Hawk Turquise (GW) + White, Lothern Blue (GW),

I hope you’ve enjoyed this tutorial and found it helpful.

Nazroth

“LONE SENTRY” SPECIAL PROJECT

Recently I spent a lot of time working on a ‘Special Project’. I have read/watched tutorials and acquired Know How in a hope of expanding my painting skill. I even visited a friend from Fantasygames Painting Studio to watch and learn. In the end I feel like if I ‘gained a level’. Here is a shortcut of a tremendous amount of hours spent on learning and a week of hard day and night labour:

“LONE SENTRY”

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Infini uber wip 3

Pano king WIP

Pano king WIP 2

PANO KING WIP 1

FINAL RESULT:

b3 31

b3 32

Check out this project’s Gallery…

Special thanks to:

Shizune (Made by Shizune) – for Painting Panoceania Blue Armour Tutorial
C’tan (Fantasygames Painting Studio) – for all the help, know how and this awesome Salt & Hairspray Tutorial

Nazroth

REVIEW: AVP THE HUNT BEGINS

Hey guys! Some of you may find this interresting. Recently I bought a hot stuff: AVP The Hunt Begins boardgame and what I found inside the box forced me to write this review.

About Aliens vs Predator franchise: I personally love AVP. The retro futuristic setting and it’s owerwhelming dark mood keeps my heart burning with desire for more and more AVP stuff to buy. In AVP universe human is reduced to the role of prey. Even tho Colonial Marines are tough bastards equipped with deadly Smartguns and Pulse Rifles they still fall to Alien predation and are no match against masters of the hunt, the Predators. Hunted for sport or means of breeding they must cooperate to survive the inevitable doom.What I find the most important in all AVP products is for them to be based on Aliens (2nd movie) and Predator (1st movie). So we have some armed to the teeth Colonial Marines, being thrown between an angered Aliens hive and dreadful Predator hunters. They try to survive, while their number dwindles slowly. All the time the terror is multiplied, but still badass Marines cheer up the mood with good, oldschool oneliners. This is how I see it. That’s the way I love it.

So when I found out about AVP board/miniature game being released I was extatic! I jumped right onto Kickstarted and was taken aback by the information of who releases it: Prodos Games. After seeing the difference between Prodos’ Warzone Kickstarter and Warzone final products I wasn’t sure if I wanted to spend some cash in advance. I’d held my hand and awaited KS campaign results. After it came to an end Prodos surprised me with an option to buy the game via their site. That was unexpected and bothered me a little so once more I held my hand and didn’t made the purchase. Finally the AVP The Hunt Begins hit the stores and this time, being sure that I will get my copy, I made the purchase.

The box looks amazing and weights a lot so once you will hold it in your hands, you’ll probably buy it 🙂

packed avp
THE BOX: The way with which game elements are packed is mediocre. Cards packed in small paper boxes. Miniatures packed in zip bags. All zip bags packed into a medium cardboard box. A huge foam square glued still to the innards of the box (what the fuck?! Why have you damaged my beautifull box Prodos?). Regardless of the foam my Rulebook was already damaged so this sole fact halted some of my enthusiasm. It was balanced with an easy but clever move with which Prodos prepared Cardboard Sprues to be taken out of the box. A small hole big enough for a finger was cut in the sprues. (Why haven’t I seen anything familiar in other board games – I don’t know, but it’s a nice idea).

packed all

figurka packed total

figurka packed

packed gąbka

wnętrze pudła

packed instrukcja

packed wypraski
MINIATURES: Miniatures are amazingly detailed and kept to the scale. Look at these Colonial Marines. These look amazing!

figurka sm
Still some molding solutions are just idiotic. Take a look at this Alien miniature. It has mold cannals inside it’s hands! I work with miniatures for more than fifteen years now and i’ve rarely seen such stupid way of placing the mold cannals. Some of the hobbysts may have a real problem dealing with these.

figurka alien
And now the worst thing. My Disc Predator was a miscast and looked like this. Yeah Chineese – you fucked up my Predator Miniature and then packed it into my copy of the game. What do you think I feel like right now? This miniature is trash. Instead of painting it and playing the game I placed a complaint to my local store and await a new miniature.

figurka predator
I thought that Prodos Games evolved a bit after Warzone. A lot of mistakes in production process there. As it stands I was wrong – Prodos seems not to learn fast enough.

CARDS: In my opinion Cards are the biggest dissapointment in the whole product. The material with which they are made is bad. Boardgame Cards where made this way like ten years ago. The differences between Prodos Cards and Fantasy Flight Games’s ones are huge. The quality is light years away. Still that’s not the worst thing. The cards lack all the climate that makes AVP what it is. For example: there are not quotes from the movies, no oneliners that built the Alien and Predator franchises. Not a single ‘theme’ motives on the objective cards, even card backs are devoid of thought through theme. These looks like if Prodos Games forced the product at speed and without taking theme and AVP mood into consideration. “Just print the rules”. Here, take a look:

[This looks ok,]

karty all

[These are faction cards and they look ok,]

karty avp przód
These are faction cards backs and I can’t help myself not to wander – where the Fuck are Colonial Marines cards? Was it so difficult to make them look more like card fronts?

karty avp tył
These are Enviromental Cards. Wow Prodos Games – so much climate, so strong AVP theme… How have you planned to build the atmosphere of the game without a plot/story/setting motive?

[Predator and Alien stat cards look nice.]

karty enviroment

karty postacie
And now the worst shit ever: Colonial Marines stat cards look ALL THE SAME! Hey grunts, which one of you is an awesome Smartgunner? Anyone called for a Medic? Really? Couldn’t these be done differently? It’s not that there’s plenty of graphics in the game with not more then a dozen in the Rulebook and half a dozen on the stat cards…

karty sm postacie
And where did all the Marines went gone? I’ve looked through the Rules and there is only a single Colonial Marines picture (well not exactly as it depicts a Weyland Yutani commando) and like two or three  pictures with a Colonial Marine being a background. Prodos seems to forgot about Human species being the epicentre of the AVP theme. Sure I like feel the call of the hunt as a Predator or stalk the dark corridors as the Alien but as a human the faction I feel the most related to is Colonial Marines.

grafika pred 1

grafika avp

grafika alien 3

grafika alien 2

grafika alien 1
grafika sm
CARDBOARD TOKENS: I have mixed feeling about these. The cardboard material is bad still the visual aspect is quite nice. Take a look at this:

wypraska
Looks good doesn’t it? And now let’s do the things Prodos style, with as much minimalism as one may have. Sentry, Hidden, Activated tokens all look like shit. Devoid of climate and pathetic in design. Other tokens look ok but not awe worthy.

żetony małe
[I just can’t understand the reasoning behind designing Acid Damage token to be one sided. It was childishly easy to copy/paste the same graphic to the other side.]

żetony duże

żetony duże tył
THE RULES: The final part of this Revew – the Rules are BAD. I’ve played a lot of games both miniature and boardgames in the past years. I love Space Hulk for it’s simplicity, Rune Wars for many strategies and easy to learn rules, Zombicide, Catwallon: City of Thieves, Super Dungeon Explore, Warhammer 40,000, Infinity, Mordheim and more. All these games are more than playable and rewarding. I find AVP The Hunt Begins rules rather easy but written in such a way that I was forced to jump between the pages and search for some rules all the while these were formed in a way that my Wargaming hardened mind couldn’t comprehend. I understand when Corvus Belli write down Infinity rules like eight years old’s but they are from Spain for fuck’s sake! AVP rules are just unreadable, full of missing letters, idiotic key words and above all – they are totally devoid of flavor. Prodos Guys – just see to Zombicide rulebook and you will know what I mean by climate!

So in the end I give this game a 5 out of 10 and am very, very disapointed in the product I have awaited for so long. If nothing changes in the way Prodos Games design their products I will reconsider not spending my cash on their products anymore. If not for the miniatures – this game would’ve been a stain on the AVP franchise as big as PC Aliens – Colonial Marines was.

And Prodos – this is a 10 out of 10 and it’s a fucking mascot. You we’re owned by a Facehugger mascot! Let it be a warning for you – that purchasing a copyright to a franchise does not mean you can blew all the rest up. You should’ve made sure that your rules and game components would stand to the great AVP franchise and you have failed in that. Shame!

faCEHUGGER
Agree/Disagree? There’s a comment section below where you can stand for your opinion 😉

Nazroth

COLOUR RECIPES: INFINITY ALEPH

Here are some Colour Recipes for Infinity Aleph from GALLERY: ALEPH lvl 4

Myrmidon

BLACK/GREY outfits & weapons:
Black Undercoat,
Dark Sea Grey (Vallejo) airbrushed,
Medium Sea Grey (Vallejo) airbrushed,
Light Grey (Vallejo) airbrushed,
Pale Grey Blue (Vallejo) airbrushed,
White lining,
Dark Tone Ink (AP)
Administratum Grey lining,
White lining,
Black ‘Wash for dark vehicles’ (Vallejo) filling in cavity lines

WHITE:
Pallid Wych Flesh (GW)
Pallid Wych Flesh (GW) + White
White
Black ‘Wash for dark vehicles’ (Vallejo) filling in cavity lines
Gloss Varnish (GW)

Aleph 7

BASES brown
Black Undercoat,
Gorthor Brown (GW)
Karak Stone (GW)
Karak Stone + Pallid Wych Flesh (GW) soft drybrush
A 50%/50% mix of Strong Tone Ink (AP) + Soft Tone Ink (AP)
Strong Tone Ink filling in cavity lines
Pallid Wych Flesh edging
BASES gray
Black Undercoat,
Eshin Grey (GW)
Administratum Grey (GW) soft drybrush

Aleph 8

Follow to ALEPH’S GALLERY…
Nazroth

COLOUR RECIPES: INFINITY YU JING

Here you can find some Colour Recipes for Yu Jing miniatures from GALLERY: INFINITY YU JING

Yu Jing 7

RED:
Grey Undercoat,
Sanguine Base (P3) + Scarlet Red (Vallejo Model Air)
Scarlet Red + Troll Slayer Orange (GW)

Scarlet Red + Troll Slayer Orange+ White (Vallejo Model Air)
Red Tone Ink (AP) here and there x2
Heroes got lined with a mix of Wazdakka Red (GW)Lugganath Orange (GW)

WEAPONS:
Eshin Grey (GW)
Warpfiend Grey (GW)
Warpfiend Grey + Skeleton Bone (AP)

Warpfiend Grey + Skeleton Bone+ White applied from the top
A 50%/50% mix of Strong Tone Ink (AP) + Soft Tone Ink (AP)

BLUE:
Teclis Blue (GW)
Lothern Blue (GW)
Baharroth Blue (GW) fat middle lines
Blue Horror (GW) thin middle lines

PANTS:
Dheneb Stone (GW) foundation
Dheneb Stone + Skeleton Bone (AP)
Dheneb Stone + Skeleton Bone + White
A 50%/50% mix of Strong Tone Ink (AP) + Soft Tone Ink (AP)
Heroes got lined with a mix of Skeleton Bone and Flayed One Flesh (GW)

yu jing wip 2

yu jing wip 3

yu jing wip 5

yu jing wip 6

Yu Jing 9

Nazroth

TUTORIAL: PAINTING NOMAD RED ARMOUR

Here is a Step-by-step guide of how to paint Infinity Nomad Red Armour – Scar_hand Painting’s style 🙂

A complete Recipee used to paint my Infinity Nomads may be found in COLOUR RECIPEES: INFINITY NOMADS. You can also find some additional pictures in the NOMADS: CORREGIDOR lvl 4,5 Gallery.

Colour Recipe:

* GW Standard Brush,
* Tamiya Modeling Brush HG,
* AP Wargamer: The Psycho,
* GW Chaos Black Undercoat,
* GW Mechrite Red, (When this one runs out i’ll switch to P3 Formula ‘Sanguine Base’ instead),
* GW Wazdakka Red,
* AP Skeleton Bone,
* White,
* AP Strong Tone Ink,
* AP Red Tone Ink,

1  I used Chaos Black spray to undercoat the model. I usually do this by applying eight layers of undercoat from eight different angles (four at the front and four at the back of the model, each at the same 45* angle with one directed up, one down, one left and one right side of the model).

2  The first layer of Red was made with Standard Brush and Mechrite Red. I tried not to fill the recesses too much and to cover all buldes smoothly.

red 1

3  I switched to Tamiya Modeling Brush and applied Wazdakka Red to all bulges and flat surfaces of the armour, leaving cavities Mechrite Red'ed. This madethe armour look more smooth and ready to be highlighted.

red 2

4  I applied a 50%/50% mix of Wazdakka Red and Skeleton Bone in the middle and on the edges of particular surfaces.

red 3

5  I added White to the Wazdakka/Skeleton mix and further lined the model.

red 4

6  More White was added to the mix and another layer of lines and points was made.

red 5

7  I switched back to Standard Brush and washed the armour with Strong Tone Ink.

red 6

8  I switched to The Psycho to add some Skeleton Bone/White lining in the key points of the armour.

red 7

9  I switched to Tamiya Modeling Brush and washed the armour with Red Tone Ink.

red 8

9  Oops! I did it again washing all the armour with Red Tone Ink to finally finish it.

red 9

Hope that you find this little tut useful and that you will post some pictures of miniatures painted this way 😉

Nazroth

TUTORIAL: PHALLOSO DREADNOUGHT

Are you a true Warhammer 40k fan? Do you play Space Marines like all grown men? Do you want to dominate the Warhammer 40k tournaments? Do you intend to strike fear with your Space Marines? If the answer is yes then this tutorial is something for you!

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A Dreadnought is the embodiment of Warhammer 40k, Space Marines and Fear. A mighty warrior once fighting in countless battles to finally give his life ‘for the Emperor!’ and spend eternity encased in the cold confines of a Dreadnought carapace. Even among Dreadnoughts there is none mightier and more feared than Phalloso type. Armed with two powerful Dick-shaped close combat weapons the Phalloso strikes fear in the hearts of all enemies, including Necron and Tyranids! There is a saying among the Imperials that ‘to die by the… hands of a Phalloso Dreadnought is to taste fate worse than to be consumed by the Gods of Chaos themselves’

!  BEFORE YOU PROCEED - GO ON AND BUY A DREADNOUGHT!

TUTORIAL: HOW TO MAKE A PHALLOSO DREADNOUGHT

1) Using Citadel Hobby Knife* get inside the box! There’s a Dreadnought waiting to be born!
* Remember to reattach a special protective cover when you’re done. You don’t want to harm yourself!

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2) The box, assembly instruction and transfer sheets are all garbage* for ladylike kids – trash them immediately!

*”But i like the transfer sheets” WHOOOOT?! Stop this tutorial right now and do not – i repeat – DO NOT lay your womanish hands on a sacred plates of a Dreadnought! Go and collect some Eldar!

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3) Using Citadel Plastic Cutters remove two Dreadnought Close Combat Weapon base parts* from the sprues. I know that for a srong man’s hands Plastic Cutters are poor and unnatural tool but one must suffer if one is to create a magnificent work!

*”What about other parts?” Don’t worry, we will get there in time. The most important thing in modelling is to plan your work accordingly!

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4) We finally got there! From now on all the modelling stuff will get more manworthy! Using Citadel Hobby Vice* cut some Green Stuff into pieces!

*Some poor modellers disregard Citadel Hobby Vice as useless. If someone tells you not to buy one  then he’s modelling skills are probably far below the mediocree level.

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5) Time for some sculpting. First prepare a Green Stuff ball anr roll it down with Citadel Clean-up Tool*.

*This tool is pretty useless but hey – we’ve just found a use for it!
Now sculpt the D’claws starting with the head and foreskin. The more love you’ll put to it the more fear it will strike in the future.

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6) After gluing the D’claws to the Dreadnought’s forehands place them into the Vice and under a strong light source. Heat will quicken the process of hardening and you will be able to start modelling some ammo clips. Start by chopping more Green Stuff pieces with Citadel Razor Saw and create four balls from it. Polish the balls with Citadel Clean-up Brush so that they shine* nicely.

*This will bring additional terror effect as the light reflected by the balls will imitate that of Emperor’s own halo!

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7) Do you feel your testosterone pumping in your vanes?! LEt it loose by reaping off all the rest of the Dreadnought’s bitz out of sprues. Use man-friendly Citadel Hobby Vice to do it and sing THIS SONG while doing so!

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8) For most of us gluing small bitz together is the worst of all nightmares! It usually ends up with fingers, trousers and literally everything glued together but for the parts intended. Do not falter tho as you can deceive the system and use two* Citaled Hobby Vice to do the work.

*Double the Vice, double the fury, double the MAN POWER!
Remember to drill some with Citadel Hobby Drill. It is not necessary but it’s a lot of fun and your girlrfiend will get into good mood if she sees it.

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9) You now have two mighty weapons for your Phalloso Dreadnought but he still misses one vital part – it’s soul – the Sarcophagus! Do not bother to use a regular hobby file to prepare the front part of the Sarcophagus as it will take forever to make it done. Use the all-powerful Citadel Emery Boards to flatten the surface, then put some Green Stuff on it and sculpt* a nice Cock ornament on it.

*The best tool for the job is the back of Citadel Hobby Saw!

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10) Just add some final touch by futher polishing the Phalloso Dreadnought with Citadel Clean-up Brush. Remember that every minute devoted to the task will earn you advantage in future battles!

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11) It’s finally done! The Phalloso Dreadnought is ready for battle and you can rest assured that it’ll scare the hell out of your opponents! You can sip some pure whiskey out of Citadel Brush Cup while admiring your work…

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