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Author Archives: Nazroth

TUTORIAL: SPRAY UNDERCOAT

Every once in awhile I stumble upon a question of how to undercoat miniatures properly. Well – there are many techniques of undercoating miniatures and each individual hobbyist has his own favorite style.  I’ve figured that instead of writing all the know-how again and again – I can prepare a solid Tutorial of what I consider to be my favorite technique and just link it to all the hobbyists in need. Below you will find both a video version and extended picture version of Tutorial: Spray Undercoat – Eight Sides Technique.

TUTORIAL: SPRAY UNDERCOAT - VIDEO VERSION:

TUTORIAL: SPRAY UNDERCOAT - EXTENDED VERSION:

1  I start by preparing a setup for the miniatures. I immobilize the miniatures on a piece of wood using a protective duct tape. I place them so that I have access to the biggest part of their bodies both before and after turning them around.

undercoat 1

2  Now comes the time to shake the spray can a bit. Usually it takes between one to three minutes. I don't believe in all that 'ten minutes shakeup' bulsh... In my entire life I never done this for more than three minutes. So I just shake the can up and down in a quick succession. Once the ball inside it slides smoothly i proceed to the next step.

undercoat 2

!  WARNING - Some sprays are just like girls - usual shaking up and down can turn out to be fatal. For example - Army Painter Primers tend to get sandy and rought after shaking them too much. I always move the can in small circles so that the ball inside is sliding on the bottom.

undercoat 21

3  Time to start spraying! I spray the miniatures from a distance between 20-30cm (that's 8-12 inches), with small controlled bursts at an 45 degree angle. I start with spraying the miniatures from up and down, skipping right and left side for the time being. 

!  WHEN I'M DONE I WAIT FOR AROUND TEN MINUTES BEFORE PROCEEDING TO THE NEXT STEP.

undercoat 3

4  I repeat the action but this time I spray both the right and left side of the miniatures. Still I use the same distance of 20-30cm, same angle and small bursts.

!  WHEN I'M DONE I WAIT FOR AROUND TEN MINUTES BEFORE PROCEEDING TO THE NEXT STEP.

undercoat 4

5  I turn around the miniatures so that the unpainted surface is fully accessible.

undercoat 5

6  I repeat step '3' spraying the miniatures from the up and down side, skipping right and left side, following to previous indications (20-30cm, 45 degree, small bursts).

!  WHEN I'M DONE I WAIT FOR AROUND TEN MINUTES BEFORE PROCEEDING TO THE NEXT STEP.

undercoat 6

6  I repeat step '4' spraying the miniatures from the right and left side, following to previous indications (20-30cm, 45 degree, small bursts).

!  WHEN I'M DONE I WAIT FOR AROUND TEN MINUTES FOR THE MINIATURES TO DRY UP.

undercoat 7

That’s all – no magic or special tricks involved – just plain, easy technique. Some may consider eight layers to be too much, but I like to have my miniatures undercoated properly with no ‘shine’ visible and a solid layer of paint. Still if done properly – no detail will be dulled.

I hope you like this Tutorial – if so – please go and spread the word so that no newbe will have any problems with undercoating ever again πŸ™‚

 

This Tutorial is my debut at youtube – you can see my channel here…

Zapisz

Nazroth

TUTORIAL: PAINTING WHITE

Two weeks ago I was participating in a tournament of Infinity the Game. Somewhere between games I chated with fellow hobbyist and as the topic moved to miniatures he asked me about my Infinity Corregidor’s white. What made him curious was how solid and actually ‘white’ that colour was. I started explaining and before I finished – a group of players was standing around and listening to my recipe. I then realised that a lot of painters struggle with white as it is not an easy colour to achieve. A common mistake is to paint layer after layer of pure white as usually all the irregularities made with first layer will still be visible.

So here’s what I have observed about white paint: White has a lot of pigment which is the reason for building irregularities on the painted surface. These irregularities lead to a formation of strong white points in contrast with all the area where white is not so strong at first. It does not matter how many layers we provide as a difference between these two will be visible for long after the painted surface looses all the detail. So I figured that in order to build a nice and strong white colour there should be a small number of thin layers. But how to achieve a perfect whiteness with only few layers? The answer to that question is below…

Hacker 1

I USED:

* Chaos Black Undercoat (GW),

* Pallid Wych Flesh (GW),

* White,

* Matt Varnish (AP),

white 1

1  I applied Pallid Wych Flesh (GW) onto the surface. This layer is usually dirty and full of smudges. Black undercoat is also visible undernath it but I don't care. The key factor is to keep this layer thin so I blurredany accumulated paint with my brush adding a tiny bit of water (I used a Citadel Basecoat brush to be precise).

white 3

2  Next in line was a 1/1 mix of Pallid Wych Flesh (GW) and White. Once again I tried to keep the paint thin without adding any water. Just used the tip of the brush to clear any irregularities of paint. This layer has a lot of white's pigment, further enchanced by Pallid Wych Flesh so it should be easy to obtain a solid colour at this point - still not 'white' tho.

white 4

3  Third layer follows the same rules as the first one. I kept a thin layer of pure white mixed with a tiny bit of water.

white 5

!  You can repeat this layer to make sure the whiteness is 'perfect' before proceeding to the next one...

4  To further smoothe the surface I used Matt Varnish. It solidified the 'whiteness' of my layers but I had to be very careful due to Varnish's tendention of drawing small hair and dust fragments. After applying this layer I put the miniature into a small plastic box so that no dusty trash will land on it while it dries out.

white 6

That’s it – that’s the whole secret of pure and strong white.

I had a lot of difficulities taking proper pictures so please treat these pics as not entirely true – I have these pieces before me and there’s a lot of colour difference between balls 1st to 4th, and some difference in smoothness between 4th and 5th. Still you now know the recipe and it should work for you just as it works for me πŸ™‚

white 7

 

Zapisz

Nazroth

TUTORIAL: PAINTING MARBLE

Below is a quick and easy technique of painting marble using a limited palette of paints.

Introduction: Painting marble using this method does not require precision nor a variety of unusual skills. It is quite effective and bereft of any extensive cons. The pros of this technique are as follows:

– fast,
– simple,
– easy to learn,
– cheap*

* assuming you already have an airbrush or spray gun – if not, I have posted a solution in the end of the article.

marmur 9

I USED:

* Chaos Black Undercoat (GW),
* German Red Brown (Vallejo Surface Primer)

!  Doombull Brown (GW) or Dark Flesh (GW) and actually any dark brown will do.

* White (Vallejo Air),
* Dark Tone Ink (AP),
* Strong Tone Ink (AP),
* Soft Tone Ink (AP),
* Gloss Varnish (Vallejo),
* Steel Wool,

1  I undercoated the surface using Black Undercoat (GW),

marmur 1

2  The first proper layer was German Red Brown (Vallejo). I used Airbrush to cover all of the 'marble' surface with it.

marmur 2

3  I took a piece of Steel Wool and made a marble template out of it by pulling and stretching a small piece of it. I used the template and airbrushed all with White.

marmur 3

Here’s an example of how it was done:

x1

4  Using Dark Tone Ink (AP) and thin brush I marked out some major lines of the marble. I also used water to dilute the paint and used the mixture one side of some major lines.

marmur 4

5  Using large brush I made random stains of Strong Tone Ink (AP) and then before it dried I've genlty touched it with piece of paper towel.

marmur 5

6  I washed all using Soft Tone Ink (AP).

marmur 6

7  I built contrast in the recesses using Dark Tone Ink (AP) diluted with a bit of water.

marmur 7

8  Finally I glossed whole surface with Gloss Varnish (Vallejo) to give it a nice shine of polished marble and deepen the colours difference.

marmur 8

ALTERNATIVE METHOD

For those who lack Airbrush: Forget about steel wool, and proceed through steps 1-3 without it. during step 3 apply white paint using brush but before it dries out use a wet toothpick to draw soft, thin lines. You may need to use couple of layers of white in the spots you like it to be strong. Afterwards just follow the tutorial to it’s finale πŸ˜‰

Hope you like and will use this method. If so – feel invited to post thew link to some pictures here for the benefit of other hobbyists.

Nazroth

COLOUR RECIPES: INFINITY HACKER’S ‘TRANSPARENT’ HOLO SCREEN

This post is in a way ‘on demand’ as lately I got an unprecedented number of questions regarding the paints used on the ‘transparent’ Hacker’s screen with which one of my NOMADS: CORREGIDOR lvl 4,5 miniatures is equipped. Taking this opportunity I will also add a mini-tutorial of how to prepare such holo-screen on the bottom of this post.

Infinity Nomad Dactari

 

HAKCER’S HOLO SCREEN:
White (inner site symbols),
Mephiston Red (outer side symbols),
Coelia Greenshade Wash (GW),
White (lines on the edges),
Gloss Varnish (GW),*
*For more transparency I maker smooth layer without brush strokes visible – I use a lot of Varnish to achieve that.

hacker screen

 

MINI-TUTORIAL: HACKER’S ‘TRANSPARENT’ HOLO SCREEN

That would be fast – just use scissors to cut a small piece of plastic bottle. I preffer Coca Cola Zero’s bottle, but anything thin and transparent will do. After shaping the piece put a small hole in it – that would be the place into which you will glue the miniature’s fingers so that the screen will hold firm. The secret revealed – go and spread the word!

Nazroth

“AVE DOMINUS NOX” SPECIAL PROJECT

Third ‘Special Project’ and this time it is much different than the previous ones. It’s worth mentioning that I had this one in mind for more than five years. Actually since Dec 2011 when I made these True Scale Night Lords. The paint job with which I provided them was near to ugly and I sworn to redeem myself one day. That day came and ‘AVE DOMINUS NOX’ project was realised. Eight Legion’s Rhino transporter was born into the late night of Feb 8ght 2016.

 It all started with an easy yet most important conversion.

ave dominus nox
The soul of the project lies within the plastic bounds of this particular piece. Rest of the preparation went pretty easy. It was so fast that I forgot to take pictures throughout the process.

Inner Paintjob.

ave dominus nox 2

ave dominus nox 3

One of the reasons that makes this project ‘Special’ is that I actually painted the innards of a vehicle! I paint for more than 15 years now and I haven’t done this even once ever before. I used to pillage the innards of my vehicles, then fix a D6 dice with a ‘six’ on top into them to boost their survivability and glue all the doors shut forever.

Lightning Strike!

ave dominus nox 4

Lightning is the worst nightmare of paintjob. This is the true Terror that One must overcome so that One may stand In Midnight Clad. Fortunately I found a great tutorial of how to paint Lightning using Steel Whool. Must say that it did the job.

First night’s end result.

ave dominus nox 5

This is how it looked like when I decided to finally forfeit my task for the day and fell into slumber. Next day I was a bit dissapointed with my work. The colours seem to not go well with each other. Something was wrong. I decided to continue paintjob and blend all the Lightning and Chaos markings with blue. I also redone the upper Night Lords simbol, making it a bit more juicy with sharpened edges and key points. Small points of white/yellow were added to the main lights and white lining adorned the red ones. The Rhino finally looked like a whole.

Here’s the final piece: “AVE DOMINUS NOX”

Chaos Night Lord Rhino 22

Chaos Night Lord Rhino 25

View complete gallery… Like/Don’t like? Vote at CoolMiniOrNot…
Nazroth

COLOUR RECIPES: WARHAMMER 40,000 ORKS ‘GOFF’

Here are some Colour Recipes for Warhammer 40,000 Orks of ‘Goff’ clan from GALLERY: WARHAMMER 40,000 ORKS lvl 4

ORK STORMBOYZ 3
RED armour & weapons:
Black Undercoat,
Sanguine Base (P3),
Skorne Red (P3),
Wild Rider Red (GW),
Wild Rider Red (GW)) + Troll Slayer Orange (GW),
Troll Slayer Orange (GW),
Red Tone Ink (AP),
Troll Slayer Orange (GW),

ORKY ORKS 4
GREEN skin:
Black Undercoat,
Waagh Flesh (GW),
Strong Tone Ink (AP),
Waagh Flesh (GW),
Waagh Flesh (GW) + Sybarite Green (GW),
Waagh Flesh (GW) + Skarsnik Green (GW),
Goblin Green (AP),
Sybarite Green (GW),

BLACK clothes:
Black Undercoat,
Bastion Grey (P3),
Bastion Grey (P3) + Administratum Grey (GW),
Bastion Grey (P3) + Administratum Grey (GW) + Pallid Wych Flesh (GW),
Dark Tone Ink (AP),
Wash for dark vehicles (Vallejo), [inner lining]
Administratum Grey,
Administratum Grey (GW) + Pallid Wych Flesh (GW),

ORK STORMBOYZ 1 BIG
BROWN clothes:
Black Undercoat,
Charred Brown (Vallejo),
Dark Fleshtone (Vallejo),
Dark Fleshtone (Vallejo)) + Dirt (Vallejo),
Dark Fleshtone (Vallejo)) + Dirt (Vallejo) + Bonewhite (Vallejo),
Stron Tone Ink (AP),
Flayed One Flesh (GW),

More pictures can be found at GALLERY: WARHAMMER 40,000 ORKS lvl 4
Nazroth

COLOUR RECIPES: WARHAMMER 40,000 ORKS ‘BAD MOONZ’

Here are some Colour Recipes for Warhammer 40,000 Orks of ‘Bad Moonz’ clan from GALLERY: WARHAMMER 40,000 ORKS lvl 4

ORK FLASH GITZ x1
YELLOW armour & weapons:
Black Undercoat,
Moldy Ochre (P3),
Moldy Ochre (P3),
Moldy Ochre (P3) + Pallid Wych Flesh (GW),
Griffon Sepia (GW),
Lamenters Yellow (GW),
Dorn Yellow (P3),

ORKY ORKS 2
GREEN skin:
Black Undercoat,
Waagh Flesh (GW),
Strong Tone Ink (AP),
Waagh Flesh (GW),
Waagh Flesh (GW) + Sybarite Green (GW),
Waagh Flesh (GW) + Skarsnik Green (GW),
Goblin Green (AP),
Sybarite Green (GW),

ORK FLASH GITZ x5
BROWN clothes:
Black Undercoat,
Charred Brown (Vallejo),
Dark Fleshtone (Vallejo),
Dark Fleshtone (Vallejo)) + Dirt (Vallejo),
Dark Fleshtone (Vallejo)) + Dirt (Vallejo) + Bonewhite (Vallejo),
Stron Tone Ink (AP),
Flayed One Flesh (GW),

More pictures can be found at GALLERY: WARHAMMER 40,000 ORKS lvl 4
Nazroth

TUTORIAL: INFINITY ‘DO IT YOURSELF’ GAMING TERRAIN

In this tutorial I will show you a shortcut to some awesome Terrain Making. Together we will plunge head on into the distant future of ‘Infinity the Game’. We end up knee deep in terrain pieces, surrounded by half cheved bitz of plasticard, with our fingertips bleeding, clothes devastated by super glue and wallets full of unspent cash! A truly manly adventure awaits us and that’s why I’ve prepared some Terrain Making theory to prepare you for what is to come and remodel the way you think about it.

THEORETICAL

Terrain Making is a topic to write a book about. There is just so many different aproaches a modeller can take on a road to create some awesome gaming terrain. I would be lying if I told you that I am able to cover all of that here, in this tutorial. Instead I will concentrate on some key points of Terrain Making that I keep in mind whenever I happen to make some scenery.

PLANNING:

The first thing to do is planning. I’m not a big fan of this part and usually skip it, still some key points of planning take place almost unconsciously. Just sort the ideas, prepare funds for eventual purchases, set a theme and go for it!

inf ter tut 26

– Price of beauty. Long years of gaming and terrain making showed me that a nice looking table may look even better if pumped with some pre-made stuff. Just throw some money into this project and see how much it changed when it comes to how it looks. Think of a sum that you would like to invest in your gaming table – have in mind that except for some necessary stuff like paints, glue, spray, your gaming table can still be built with 0 cash involved.

– Avoid Expensive stuff. I just told you to spend some cash but be thoughtful with that. Try to pinpoint the most expensive elements of your future gaming table and substitute them with some cheap alternatives. This way you not only save some cash but also will not brind huge visual diversity to your terrain set. [A good example of an expensive terrain piece that could be easily replaced.]

– Be a pragmatist. Keep it fast and simple to build. I too had a boner when seeing this gaming table but hey – it’s like a billion € and countless hours spent on putting these things together. Remember that cash equals time and vice versa. If earning cash to purchase a terrain piece and putting that piece together will take you less time than making one yourself – just go for it. Otherwise it’s worth to keep it at speed. A nice looking gaming table can be built and painted in less than 16 hours!

– Select a theme. A ravaged battlefield, futuristic city, space hulk hallways, huge magazines, train station, rich district – what you will choose will affect the materials you will need and a level of complexity ergo ‘time’ you will need to build your gaming table. A good theme is an average between price, time of build and LOOKS. Low on cash and time? Try out Magazine space full of barrels and containers. Plenty of cash and time? Go for a pristine Rich Quarters with fountains, streets, bridges and detailed buildings.

MATERIAL:

In order to create a gaming table you will need a lot of different materials. Plasticard, cardboard, thin wood are considered to be ‘common’ while bitz and parts of particular shapes are more difficult to obtain.

inf ter tut 19

– Have an open mind. There’s plenty awesome items surrounding you all of the time. Most of them end up as trash while they might be used as modelling material of exceptional value. Just go to the kitchen and look around. Plastic bottle caps of different shapes and sizes, coffee jar lids – these are the tip of an iceberg!

– Ride the outside world. Home ‘trash’ is your brick and mortar when it comes to Terrain Making but true pearls belong to the world outside. Just outside your doors you can find some nice looking stones and sticks but further you venture the better your loot will get. Go ahead and visit a supermarket. Toys, hair utensils, cheap (crappy) plastic jewelry, tools section, decorations – these places are marked with ‘X’ for ‘treasure’!

– Be like modern China, steal blueprints. Many different companies created a variety of splendid gaming terrain. Once you type “Infinity Gaming Terrain” in google you will find a lot of great inspiration to draw your ideas from. You can even purchase some and use leftovers to pimp the visual effect of your home made terrains or go even further and rearrange purchased terrain to have some additional spare bitz left!

CONSTRUCTION:

Finally a part of raw hard work! If you picked a theme that goes along with your funds and time that you are willing to invest – this part will be a lot of fun for you.

inf ter tut 11

– Durability. Gaming terrain should be tough as otherwise you risk games ended up being forced to do some repairs. Try to create terrain that is well ballanced and easy to game with. I recommend that you base all of the smaller terrain pieces as this will improve their balance along with visuals. Just remember to never use cardboard for basing as it usually bends over time. The recommended materials are: plasticard, plywood (both can be seen in the picture above).

– Utility. Gaming terrain is supposed to be gamed upon. I know – some small, sweet looking, extremely detailed pieces makes me wanna cry with joy, but are they as playable as simple, angular blocks of terrain? The answer is NO and have that in mind. Additionally it is worth to measure some heights to better fit the miniatures. For example: A barrel of the same height as a miniature will usually force you to wonder if a miniature standing behind it has LOF to other miniatures? Well usually it does due to use of silhouettes so it’s better to build barrels that are half the miniature’s height. Etc.

[Once again a good example of an expensive and not very playable terrain piece.]This building is looking great but it is expensive, the cover it provides on the ground level is limited, it is too high for some miniatures to go to the roof in a single action forcing you to remember where the miniature is left hanging.

– Clusters. When it comes to small terrain pieces it is the best to keep them clustered on a single base. They will stay in place and provide a wide cover instead of falling apart and moving around the table each time someone ccidentally pushes it.

– Clones. I’m an enemy of a ruler. I just hate to spend lots of time measuring plasticard/cardboard pieces of same dimensions. I preffer to measure up one piece, then cut the rest using the ‘primary’ piece as a template. Even if some pieces get a bit different from one another this will only add some extra touch to the overall looks of my gaming terrain. [Use this technique at your own discretion.]

– Production line. Plan your work accordingly. Start by preparing all the necessary pieces, put them together and base all the terrain pieces. Do not start to paint before all the terrain is ready for it. This way your work will be a bit less rewarding but you will save a lot of time. Same goes for painting: Do not paint a single terrain piece but paint them in droves instead. Just as you end up applying a layer to the last piece, the first one will get dry and ready for the next layer.

So here’s a shortcut recipee for you:
– Prepare funds then cut the expensives off,
– Plan what to buy/build and how long it’ll take, (be a pragmatist),
– Choose a theme according to your capabilities,
– Pillage your house for free trash material,
– Pillage nearby supermarket for some key material pieces, [keep it cheap.]
– Use some purchased terrain and leftovers to create your own variations,
– Make your terrains durable, balanced and playable,
– Keep small terrain pieces based together,
– Save time while preparing particular bitz by using one as a template to cut the rest out,
– End one stage before moving to the next one,

PRACTICAL:

I feel your pain. That wall of text above is probably as hard to read for you as it was for me and I read it more than thrice. Let’s go to the Practical part of this Tutorial with some examples and more pictures. I will use my own gaming table prepared last year as an example of how to do it in accordance to above tips.

PLANNING:

Back then I was short of time and wanted to create a gaming table designed for Infinity ASAP. I love Micro Art Studio’s terrain and wanted to purchase a whole set of it along with some Spartan Scenics. Cash was not an issue but once a test purchase was delivered I almost dropped the project due to time consuming process of putting these terrains together. It was a hell of a boredome so I decided to go ahead and prepare my own gaming table. I choose something between Mass Effect ‘Citadel’ and Death Star outer surface style Theme and already owning a Micro Art Studio’s catwalk set I decided tu cut off the most expensive thing: Buildings. Small part of the surplus cash was to be used on static grass and a Battle Mat that would eventually pump the visual effect of the gaming table.

mass effect

MATS/CONSTRUCTION:

Being a pragmatist I decided to use a hard cardboard boxes as the main bodies on the gaming board. Easy to obtain in friendly local hobby store, easy to prepare, light (transportaion), stable, very playable – the cardboard boxes prove to be an extrmely good pick. Some spare parts from catwalk set let me upgrade my ‘buildings’ with a nice set of futuristic ladders. The plan was to improve the visual effect by adding some facture with paintjob.

Once I was done with the buildings I moved to all the other stuff. Less futuristic but very playable and bringing some colour to my gaming table came Barrels, Trash Containers, Holograms, inner walls and some key terrain pieces. Here’s an example:

Infinity Terrain 3

PARTICULAR TERRAIN PIECES:

Barrels: Plastic bottle caps of coca cola, milk and water. I find the ones with less facture being the best as the paint looks much better on irregular flat areas. I drink a lot of Coca Cola Zero in addition to milk and water so I used most of the caps being kept in home πŸ™‚

inf ter tut 16x1

Trash Containers: Tic-tac pack upper parts. Some were additionally converted but looking past I think that I should leave them be as they have a perfect shape on their own.

inf ter tut 18dumbsters 1

Holograms: Old Warhammer 40,000 tokens, easy to obtain at second hand market and as these are rarely used – they come in cheap. I had some left from my own Warhammer 40,000 collection and purchased another set from a friend.

inf ter tut 15x6

Inner Walls: Rectangle Chessex Dice packs being emptied and thrown away by a local hobby store. Some walls were also made of wooden blocks. Some have been updated with facture made of wooden spare parts left from Micro Art’s catwalk set.

inf ter tut 14x4

All the leftovers were used to build this Relay Beacon, leaving not a single bitz unused.

x3

This particular gaming board was made with rush thus I had to update it from time to time adding extra touch with new sets of scenery. Just recently I wandered into the Supermarket in search of some final pieces to strengthen the theme of Sci-fi quarters. I found these cool items:

Plastic hair holder / 1,5€is a masterpiese of both architecture and art. A fine centerpiece for my gaming table. I bought two of these and made them into this:

inf ter tut 13x2

Decorative beads / 2€ will one day be used to make a set of awesome light globes all around my flat white buildings. For now they served as additional facture for new set of Trash Containers.

inf ter tut 17main theme

So here we are. My gaming table took less than 24hrs in total to complete and that if all the add-ons are being counted. The overall cost of this project is Micro Art catwalk set, Micro Art hologram banner set, Micro Art gaming mat, warhammer 40,000 tokens, two hair holders, a pack of decorative beads, a can of white spray, some paints, glue, brushes. It’s around 150€ + 24hrs worth of my work (which could be much less if I only made all these stuff in one go). All the other items I’ve managed to get for free. Now I have a very playable and rather nice looking gaming table, designed for Infinity and fully packable into a single box XD

inf ter tut 21x5

!  If i haven't purchased Micro Art Studio's awesome stuff the overall cost of this gaming table would be close to 50€

z1 y2

I hope that you will find this tutorial both helpful and inspiring. In case of any questions just leave me a comment in the comment section below.

PS: The pictures below were made couple of days ago in a local mall, which was modernized recently. Now it looks just as my vision of what this gaming table is supposed to represent πŸ™‚ Welcome to the future – few years from now and we will see some Heavy Infantry in live action πŸ™‚

gk 1 gk2

Zapisz

Nazroth

GAMING TUTORIAL: INFINITY TOURNAMENT PREPARATION

Being a Wargaming hobbyist is not always related to miniature painting. Some of us just like to collect miniatures, others enjoy competitive play. There are those who do not feel joy of having a brush in one hand and a miniature in the other all the time. That doesn’t make them any less a ‘hobbyist’ than the actual painters. Needless to say that regardless of what makes us into true hobbyists we have one important thing in common: we love miniatures.

Having that in mind I’ve prepared something not exactly related to painting miniatures. It is a small Tutorial about Preparation before an ‘Infinity the game’ Tournament. A preparation that in my opinion is especially important from the ‘beginners’ point of view but will benefit all the players present at the evet, and here’s why:

The game lives on as long as it sells and it sells as long as it’s fun. ‘Fun’ is the principal of hobby, still a lot of players consider miniature wargaming tournaments of being ‘all about competitive play’. The fact that both sides should have the same amount of fun is pushed to back burner as once the adrenaline kicks in, there’s no thinking about ‘what the oponent feels?’ – only what he ‘thinks’ and only if related to the current game πŸ™‚ Sometimes that leads to stressful situations or even unpleasant behavior. On the other hand there are players more interrested in throwing some dice and moving miniatures enjoying scenario flavor and nice looking scenery pieces. These happen to misstriger some reactions, forget rules or equipment vital to play the game according to the rulebook. So in order to bring fun to the tournament and have some fun ourselves we shoud both prepare mentally and grab some gear for the upcomming event.

x mental
Mental Conditioning: First of all try to think about what the opponent feels? Off course it won’t be fun to be massacred by some unpainted ‘tournament ready in 15 minutes’ miniatures of a guy who ‘must win this one to get to top 3’. Stone face and lack of sense of humour is your’s enemy as much as it is for your opponent, regardless of which kind of player you face. At the same time have in mind what’s going on in your opponent’s head while you shift back movements and can’t make your mind for what seems to be an eternity. Or while you whine about your opponent’s miniatures being unpainted and how ‘devoid of climate’ that is instead of facing this match like a man.

– You play against ‘non competitive flavor snail’? Even when you behave nice and point out some vital rules, that your opponent may to forget, try adding a joke or some short battlefield anegdote to smooth the atmosphere. It is possible to win literally obliterating oponents army and still to achieve fun for both sides. Try to keep your adrenaline glands dormant as once they flare up you only worsen the opponent’s reaction time.

– You play against a ‘rookie’? Keep the atmosphere calm and friendly having in mind your own first tournament experience. Try not to use tournament slang and abbreviations – your opponent nodding does not have to mean he understands what you said. Tutour your oponent (ok, do it after some actions have been taken so he learns on mistakes) to help him understand what did just happened but also to become a better opponent for the future matches. This way you also become a better player.

– You play against a ‘tight ass pro’? Don’t treat some rules as not obligatory, for example be thorough while moving your miniatures (don’t steal some vital inches due to being lazy). Be calm and accurate but at the same time try to decide fast even if it costs you a loss of confidence on the table. Better to loose and learn from your opponent than to win and stagnate without evolving your skills. Remember that once you estabilish an accurate form of contact you will be able to ask some vital questions thus fastening the game and having less difficulties with making important decisions.

– You play against ‘Luck’? Don’t be angry at dice. This game is all about RNG, also luck is a bitch. You will take your time to position a sniper in full advantage just to be taken out by a stupid pistol’s ARO while at the same time some Combi Rifle grunt will multikill on a spree! Infinity is just ‘that kind of a game’. Deal with it or move on to ther systems;)

Some basic rules of having 'Fun':

– Clock is ticking! Keep track of time as you may be the one overthinking too much.
– Hands off! Under any circumstances do not touch opponent’s miniatures unless he lets or asks you to.
– Obtain certainty! Ask your opponent for any ARO’s or other actions available to him so that he won’t misstriger. Have in mind that the harder it is to win the better player you’ll become.
– Buckle up and disengage! When game ends just pack your stuff and report results to a judge. Then transfer your things to a neutral place (parapet, empy table…). Most people tend to leave their belongings scattered around the table and dissapear to be late for another round. In that case you being late and unprepared means that four players, yourself included, will be awaiting while you chaotically collect your stuff from around the table.
– Keep noting! Write down every major  choices so that there won’t be any doubt about them. For example which Camouflage Marker reffer to which miniature etc.

!  Additional tip - Read the official Infinity Tournament System rules and Scenarios that will be played at the event.

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Gear Preparation: Gaming is so much easier when you don’t have to borrow stuff from all the peeps at the tournament. Usually it’s also much faster! Being professional does not mean that you go straight for Power Gaming, it means to play according to the rules thus reducing a number of conflicts to a minimum.

Pro: If you consider yourself a Pro then I don’t need to tell you of how important some of this stuff actually is. You probably own your personal tournament set and know your own ways of waging war.

Rookie: One of the reasons why Infinity is such a great game is that you don’t have to spend a lot of cash on a bunch of useless items (say ‘hi’ to Games Workshop from me) and can focus your finances on miniatures instead. Rulebook, Unit Profiles, Unit Silhouettes, Tokens and Markers are all printable. Just fallow to Download section at Infinitythegame.com. Even the Classyfied Objective Deck is not obligatory as rulebook includes a special table that you may use instead! That leaves you with some vital stuff like Tape Meausure, Dice, Templates and off course Miniatures to obtain. So regardless of what kind of Tournament Gear you have – it’s time to pack it correctly.

– Pack your bag! Try to pack your bag/box to the optimum. An optimal packed bag will let you move swiftly on the tournament ground, embark your miniatures fast after the game (to let other use the same table) and unpack them rapidly when facing next opponent! Some vital stuff will be within reach all the time also!

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– Print an Army Roster! That goes both for your’s and ‘Courtesy’ one to show it to your opponent. A printed roster is easy to apprehend and will fasten the ‘game preparation’ process. Also you will be able to decide on strategy easier when facing plain enemy roster yourself. Did I mentioned that wothout it you won’t be able to participate?
Use ARMY program to prepare your army list and don’t forget to print ‘Courtesy’ roster for your opponent.

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– Templates (‘teardrops’), Blast Markers (‘cookies’): Must have, just don’t show without them!

– Precise Measures: Precise Measure is in my opinion the most important tool of precise gaming so I recommend you bring one. It comes in handy while moving miniatures and checking their Area of Control. It makes the game a lot more pleasant.

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– Tokens: Wounds, Unconsious, Prone, Regular Orders, Impetous*, Irregular Orders*, Camo*, Command Tokens (*if your army uses these) are vital to the game performance. These are must have and if you lack some cash to purchase fine versions of these – you can always print and cut yourself.

– Objective Markers: Objective Markers are not obligatory but they come in pretty handy. All for the sake of keeping track of what’s going on at the table.If you lack these yourself then probably your opponent will provide his own set, but what if he thought exactly the same?

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– Silhouettes: Silhouettes* are a must have in N3 (*if your army uses these) and they tend to be used at some point in the game. They are being used if a certain Line of Fire situation is not clear. At first you will probably mean they are an inconvenience but after couple of tries you won’t be able to play without them.

– Classified Deck: This item is just awesome. All the rolling involving a special table and then searching how does a certain secondary objective works is just frustrating. You can either buy one of these along with your friends or print a copy. Whatever you choose you won’t regret!

– Laser Pointers: No more Line of Fire arguments, no more asking other players if a miniature sees another miniature, no more judge involvement needed. Fast and awesome method to check out LoF!

– Facing Markers: Facing Markers are a whim, as you can just mark facings on the miniature’s base. Still I preffer these instead of destroying smooth, black surface of my miniatures’ bases.

– Wound Rings: Wound Rings have one advantage over Wound Tokens – they fallow the miniature wherever it goes without you being involved.

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– Tape Measure, Dice: These must be present. They all are vitat to the game and not taking one is like forgeting to put your pants on for the event. (Well if you actually happen to like going out without pants consider this actidentally putting them on instead!).

– Pen & Paper: Pen & Paper are important as you will be asked to write some vital information like which Camouflage Marker is related to a certain miniature etc.These ARE OBLIGATORY regardless if you consider yourself a Pro or a newbie.

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– The Miniatures: Try to pack only the necessary ones and in a configuration that will be easy to access and won’t require lots of time to be deployed/swiped back.

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The Rules: No one demands that you take a paperback Rulebook with you, not to mention all the errata, Paradiso, FAQ, whatever. A mobile phone with basic Rulebook.pdf will usually do. Be advised tho, as leaving on a tournament without any means of consulting a Rulebook is a mistake. Syre you may be able to memorise all the rules but I doubt that and a Rulebook is much cheaper than amphetamine.
A mobile phone with internet access to check out Infinity Wiki is also a nice thing to have.

So a lot of what must and musn’t be done here πŸ™‚ Please remember that this is my own opinion based on personal experience acquired during over fifteen years of miniature wargaming including some world class tournaments. As for Infinity I’m still a noob so I will have to confront my ways with a bunch of tournaments but I’m sure that most of these will prove true.

Infinty Tournament Checklist:

Must haves:
– Miniatures,
– Roster for you and the opponent,*(printable)
– Pen & Paper,
– Tape Measure,
– Dice set,
– Tokens, (printable) / WHERE TO PURCHASE
– Silhouettes, (printable) / WHERE TO PURCHASE
– Templates and Blast Marker, (printable) / WHERE TO PURCHASE
– Rules,** (printable)

Usables:
*- Printed Roster for you and the opponent,
(printable)
– Precise Measure, / WHERE TO PURCHASE
– Objective Markers, (printable) / WHERE TO PURCHASE
– Classified Deck, (printable)
– Laser Pointer, / WHERE TO PURCHASE
**- Paperback Rulebook, (printable)

Convenience:
– Facing Markers, (may be painted) / WHERE TO PURCHASE
– Wound Rings, / WHERE TO PURCHASE
**- Printed Errata, FAQ,
**- Paperback/printed Paradiso etc,

Feel free to add some stuff in the comments – In the future I will gladly expand this article according to wise advice.

Nazroth

TUTORIAL: INFINITY HACKING DEVICE HOLOPROJECTOR

Recently I’ve decided to take my previous Hacking Device Holoprojector concept to a higher level. The key point was to use the same base material: a Coca Cola bottle plastic, but instead of painting simbols and lines on it – make it look more like a complex holo projection with many ‘windows’ opened at once. A devious plan formed in my mind and here I am sharing it with all who are eager to read it!

Inf Nomad Hacker 1

I USED:

* Scissors,
* Twizzers,
* Super Glue,
* Coca Cola bottle XD
* Piece of plastic/brass mesh,

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1  Using Scissors cut a small piece of Brass Mesh and a small piece of Coca Cola bottle.

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2  Still using Scissors cut a piece of Plastic into small rectangles.

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3  Use some oval shaped tool to softly bend both the Brass Mesh piece and Plastic rectangles.

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4  Using Super Glue, attach the Brass Mesh piece to a miniature.

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!  I recommend to paint the miniature along with Brass Mesh piece at this point.

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5  Using Tweezers and Super Glue attach Plastic rectangles to a painted Brass Mesh.

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6  It is done, but you can apply some Skull White onto the edges of Plastic rectangles to make them look more 3D.

Inf Nomad Hacker 2

And that’s it πŸ™‚ Whole process takes up to 10 minutes so I decided to remove old Holoprojectors from my Nomadic Hackers and install brand new ‘software’. Hope you give it a try πŸ˜‰

Nazroth