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Monthly Archives:January 2018

COLOUR RECIPES: SHADESPIRE GARREK’S REAVERS

Here are some Colour Recipes for Sepulchral Guard from GALLERY: SHADESPIRE GARREK’S REAVERS. Please take note that this is a simple colour scheme, not covering multiple overlapping layers and blends inbetween, that lead to the final product. It is supposed to be used as guidline not a step-by-step.

SKULLS:

Black Undercoat,

Bonewhite (Val),

Skeleton Bone (AP),

Mix Skeleton Bone (AP) 1:1 Off White (AP), l&p

Off White (Val), l&p

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),

Off White (Val), l&p

 

SKIN:

Black Undercoat,

Red Terracotta (Val), *

Dwarf Skin (Val), *

Flesh (Val), *

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),

Dwarf Skin (Val), bl

Flesh (Val), b

Tanned Flesh (Val), gl

Flesh (Val), l&p

RED armour:

Black Undercoat,

Red Terracotta (Val), *

Khorne Red (GW),

Mephiston Red (GW),

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),

Fire Dragon Bright (GW), l&p

Lugganath Orange (GW), l&p

Streaking Grime (AK),

 

METAL armour:

Black Undercoat,

Warplock Bronze (GW),

Gun Metal (AP),

Shining Silver (AP), l&p

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),

Shining Silver (AP), l&p

BROWN belts & strips:

Red Terracotta (Val), * undercoat,

Pallid Wych Flesh (GW), flbr

Off White (Val), l&p

Mix: Scorched Brown (Val) 1:1:1 Dark Fleshtone (Val), Medium,

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),

 

GREY clothes:

Black Undercoat,

Panzer DK. Grey (Val),

Fenrisian Grey (GW), flbr

Pallid Wych Flesh (GW), l&p

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),

Off White (Val), l&p

BASES:

Medium Sea Grey (Val), *

Light Grey (Val)*,

Pale Grey (Val),*

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),

Off White (Val), l&p

Dirt (Val), bl

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP), bl

Off White (Val), l&p

 

l&p – lines and points,

p – points,

bl – blend,

gl – glaze,

drbr – drybrush,

flbr – flatbrush,

stpl – stippling,

*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)

Nazroth

COLOUR RECIPES: SHADESPIRE SEPULCHRAL GUARD

Here are some Colour Recipes for Sepulchral Guard from GALLERY: SHADESPIRE SEPULCHRAL GUARD. Please take note that this is a simple colour scheme, not covering multiple overlapping layers and blends inbetween, that lead to the final product. It is supposed to be used as guidline not a step-by-step.

BONES:

Black Undercoat,

Dark Earth (Val), *

Khaki Brown (Val), *

Bonewhite (Val), *

Mix Bonewhite (Val) 1:1 White, *

Off White (Val), l&p, stpl

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),

Streaking Grime (AK),

Off White (Val), l&p, stpl

METAL armour:

Black Undercoat,

Warplock Bronze (GW),

Gun Metal (AP),

Shining Silver (AP), l&p

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),

Shining Silver (AP), l&p

Streaking Grime (AK),

 

BROWN belts & strips:

‘BONES’ undercoat,

Mix: Scorched Brown (Val) 1:1:1 Dark Fleshtone (Val), Medium,

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),

Flayed One Flesh (GW), l&p

Off White (Val), l&p

 

BLUE clothes:

Black Undercoat,

Stegadon Scale Green (GW),

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),

Stegadon Scale Green (GW),

Mix Stegadon Scale Green (GW) 5:1 Off White (Val),

Mix Stegadon Scale Green (GW) 4:1 Off White (Val),

Mix Stegadon Scale Green (GW) 3:1 Off White (Val), l&p

Mix Stegadon Scale Green (GW) 2:1 Off White (Val), l&p

Mix Stegadon Scale Green (GW) 1:1 Off White (Val), l&p

Off White (Val), l&p

 

BASES:

Medium Sea Grey (Val), *

Light Grey (Val)*,

Pale Grey (Val),*

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),

Off White (Val), l&p

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP), bl

Dirt (Val), bl

Off White (Val), l&p

l&p – lines and points,

p – points,

bl – blend,

drbr – drybrush,

flbr – flatbrush,

stpl – stippling,

*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)

Nazroth

“SHADEGLASS SCENERY” SPECIAL PROJECT

“The Mirrored City of Shadespire is a nightmare plane of illusions and madness, an ever-changing labyrinth of endless stairs, cramped streets and soaring archways. The original city is drained of all colour and life, and for thousands of years, it has rested as a foreboding ruin. Those unfortunate, brave, or foolhardy adventurers that set foot within its walls are drawn through the veil between realms and trapped within the Mirrored City. For such wayward souls, all hope seems lost. Yet there are those who will not accept their fate without a fight.”

CONCEPT:

Whenever I pick a new title I always crave to have an ultimate gaming set – the same happened with Warhammer Underworlds: Shadespire. It started when I’ve finished working on a small Shadespire commission and  was instantly drawn into the game. Two days later I was already painting my first warband – the Sepulchral Guard, but it wasn’t enough to quench my hobbystic thirst. I moved to another warband, being Garrek’s Reavers, all the while my hype was kept strong by Shadespire facebook group – full of awesome inspiration. Somewhere in the middle of Garrek’s Reavers paint job I let myself be overwhelmed by hype and decided to go for a Shadespire scenery set. The idea was to keep it as crazy cool as I am capable of. Concept was there – inside my head – all along, fuelled by Shadespire’s background story and insanely sweet art from the rulebook. So, the scenery was to fit the board with a ‘ruined city of sorcery and mysticism’ theme in mind. Most important part: ‘Shadeglass’ – broken, ghostly lit mirrors incorporated to a variety of trinkets, statues, pools, wells etc.

CITY OF WANDERS:

The way I see scenery making is this:

* Prep all necessary reasources.

* Create a baseline shape and base it firmly.

* Apply basic texture.

* Add major features.

* Add detail.

* Polish.

* Paint.

I faced “Shadeglass Scenery” Project following these key points. Started by preparing all the stuff that seemed usable and/or necessary. I like my scenery to be light, durable and painting friendly, so I picked 3mm plasticard to become both bases and baseline shape. Used hot water to bend some pieces, then cut ‘walls’ and hex bases out of the stuff…

Plasticard is very easy to work with. Adding texture all over newly created ‘pieces’ was a matter of using a right tool, rather than sophisticated and time consuming techniques…

With texturized walls and bases I was ready to move to major features – Shadeglass vessels of all sorts and sizes. For this purpose I used perfume cups plundered from my wife’s collection. (At the point when I’m writing this article she already noticed all the missing cups – fortunatelly the scenery is done and we played with it so she’s more like – ‘for the greater good’)…

Throughout about twenty years in the hobby I accumulated a vast collection of bitz, altho untill recently skulls where a rare commodity in the collection – Praise Nagash, Games Workshop released a set of skulls thus rendering them near to unlimited. Skulls backstory aside – I used some bitz to add detail and points of focus to the scenery…

I then used self prepared Hobby Gravel to add more detail and make the scenery pieces look ‘ruined’. Once I was sure that each piece is telling it’s own story – final polish followed and all was ready to get painted…

NAGASH'S CURSE:

Painting a ruined city of sorcery and ghosts was an interresting transition between a colour recipe I use for Shadespire warband’s bases and working on a much more bigger scale. I decided to follow my guts – start as usual and then see where it would take me. Somewhere along the way I started adding blends of purple to compliment incomming ghostly green’ish-turquise hume. This turned out to be a bullseye hit, creating an illusion of morbid, colorful lights dancing across the ruins…

The ghostly hume of Shadeglass was a real challenge. I feel very comfortable with toxic green light, but going turquise is moving away from warm colour spectrum – my sphere of comfort. Still a hobbyist gotta do what a hobbyist gotta do – I braved the unknown with a mix of Vallejo’s Jade Green and White.

BROKEN MIRRORS:

Broken Shadeglass mirrors – a special feature and main theme of the scenery. Decided to approach this in two different ways. First are the hand painted broken mirrors, adorning walls. I simply airbrushed hard angles with a mix of Jade Green and White using a Scarhandpaing’s bussiness card like a stencil. I then adjusted transitions of particular ‘pieces’ of glass and made them more distinct with sharp white lining. Other vessels were a different story. I cut translucent plastic into shards and tossed them into resin-filled vessels. Some sunk instantly, while others stayed afloat – creating a really nice effect – which unfortunatelly looks much more badass in real life, than in the pictures.

THE CITY AWAITS:

The “Shadeglass Scenery” set is done and it have already seen some Shadespire action. Who knows what will come next if the hype continues? Either way – if you plan to venture into the Mirrored City – be sure to head there throug  “SHADEGLASS SCENERY” SPECIAL PROJECT gallery

Nazroth

March 2018

I ‘Marched’ like a real trooper. First I had some finishing touched on a big Infinity Operation: Ice Storm set to do. Then I moved to single Infinity Yu-Jing and Infinity Tohaa miniatures. Necromunda: Underhive got a small scenery update. “The Colony” Special Project had seen a major buff, with new scenery being added and old getting some themed paint job. Being hyped with scenery painting I followed up with some random Infinity scenery. Then a bomb came in – entire collection of Titan-Forge’s LOBOTOMY the board game. Being exhausted but also very satisfied I’ve finished with a bunch of awesome Warhammer Undergrounds – Shadespire miniatures. What a month!

Infinity OPERATION: ICE STORM – View gallery…

Infinity MISCAELLOUS – View gallery…

Infinity TOHAA ‘Witness Me!’ – View gallery…

NECROMUNDA: UNDERHIVE – View gallery…

“The Colony” Special Project – View gallery…

Infinity Scenery

LOBOTOMY – View gallery…

SHADESPIRE ‘Chrome & Shiny’ – View gallery…

Nazroth

“THE COLONY” SPECIAL PROJECT part ten

“The Colony” – an Infinity gaming board project that streaches in time and space.

Yes – The Colony Special Project lives on and dayum! I almost run out of space to store it! Last time (“THE COLONY” SPECIAL PROJECT part nine) I was pretty sure that once I airbrush a bit here and there, The Colony would finally be completed. Imagine my surprise when I saw how the project expanded since last article. So, let’s dive straight into it…

THE COLONY - part ten: NEW HEIGHTS

Leave no MDF behind

It finally happened – The Colony is now fully painted with no MDF, be it white or regular, visible. The project was set aside for few months, when all of a sudden I got new buildings from Gingermane and painted them to match my existing set. I then followed through with all the rest including bridges, food booths, walls and ad stands. Fortunatelly for me, Bocian from Gingermane is a cool bruh of mine and he cut thin paper pieces to cover all illustrations adorning his designs. I only had to take care to cover plexi elements by myself. Once done – my work went fast and easy. Few evenings was all it took.

Urban Peaks

The Colony is vast already, but there’s always room for some extra terrain pieces. With new Gingermane designs appearing every month it’s difficult to stop expanding . It gets even harder, as he let’s me peek on work in progress designs and I sometimes get to buy some before release. Obviously when I saw ‘SF024 The Tower’ I freaked out and demanded these be handed to me emmediately. Gosh how I love these two…

Moarrr Crates

Another addition to The Colony – ‘SF010 Cargo Crates’. Slowly my own designs and scrap-built scenery are forced off the gaming board. I don’t mind it, cause at this point I’m already hooked on Gingermane’s stuff either way 😛

Dark Adjustements

With ‘SF024 The Tower’ I intorudced black/grey colour to The Colony’s overall scheme. It seem to compliment the board so I followed up on this, going back to older scenery pieces. I wander if these, once paper box, buildings will ever rest…

Epilogue

One day ‘The Colony’ will be finished, but seeing how it changes time and time again I can only say TO BE CONTINUED…

 

Nazroth

COLOUR RECIPES: INFINITY OIS NOMADS

Here are some Colour Recipes for Nomads from GALLERY: INFINITY OPERATION ICE STORM. Please take note that this is a simple colour scheme, not covering multiple overlapping layers and blends inbetween, that lead to the final product. It is supposed to be used as guidline not a step-by-step.

RED armour & uniforms:

Black Undercoat,

Scarlet Red (Val), *

Orange Brown (Val), *

Red RLM 23 (Val), *

Elf Skintone (Val), l&p

Red Tone Ink (AP),

Hot Orange (Val), B

Lugganath Orange (GW), L&p

BLACK/GREY outfits & weapons:

Black Undercoat,

Skavenblight Dinge (GW),

Fenrisian Grey (GW),

Pallid Wych Flesh (GW), l&p

Dark Tone Ink (AP),

Pallid Wych Flesh (GW), l&p

White, l&p

LIGHT GREY outfits:

Black/Grey outfits +

Pallid Wych Flesh (GW), l&p

Pale Grey Wash (Val),

Off White (Val), l&p

SKIN:

Bugmans Glow (GW),

Dwarf Flesh (GW),

Flesh (Val),

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),

Flesh (Val) l&p,

GREEN lights:

Sick Green (VAL),

Escorpena Green (VAL),

MIX: Escorpena Green (VAL) 1:1 Off White (VAL), l&p

Waywatcher Green (GW), glaze

Light Livery green (VAL), blend

l&p – lines and points,

p – points,

b – blend,

drbr – drybrush,

flbr – flatbrush,

stpl – stippling,

*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)

Nazroth

February 2018

Captain’s log – after months of being enslaved by Panoceania, there is no hope left for me… hahaha! More Panoceania ‘Chrome & Shiny’ miniatures follow last month’s entry thus closing the project for some time. Painting blue was crowned with a jewel of Joan D’Arc ‘Heroes Never Die!’, being the Special Project of the month. To keep my colour spectrum perception balanced, I have managed to throw in some miniatures of my own. Infinity Nomads are now reinforced with nine new miniatures, including a tiny Special Project of Mursi Lip Plate HVT. I know everyone expect me to renounce Panoceania superiority and swore not to bring more Pano miniatures next month – but there’s an Operation: Ice Storm set being painted right now so… just this last time hahaha… March – here I come!

Infinity NEOTERRA ‘Witness Me!’ – View gallery…

Infinity JOAN D’ARC ‘Heroes Never Die!’ – View gallery…

Infinity NOMADS – View gallery…

Nazroth

TUTORIAL: PAINTING SKIN (BASIC)

Painting skin – nightmare for some, EZ for others. Back in the days I’ve struggled with a proper skin tone, my miniatures turning out too dark, or skin being overall flat and uninterresting. Practicing ‘Five Layers Technique‘ for many years, led me to some realisations and now I am able to present to you my ultimate way of basic skin painting.

I USED:

* Regular Brush,

* Bugmans Glow (GW),

* Dwarf Flesh (GW),

* Flesh (Val AIR),

* Strong Tone Ink (AP),

* Soft Tone Ink (AP),

* Pale Flesh (Val),

!  You can achieve similar results using different paints and avoiding mixes, as long as you follow Five Layers Technique basics. For example Bugmans Glow (GW) might be switched for Tanned Flesh (AP) or Tan (Vallejo).

!  You can start by applying first layer on any surface. This method does not require any special preparation, like re-painting surface to primer black etc.

1  I started by applying an underlayer of Bugmans Glow paint over any surface destined to become skin. This layer might be a bit messy and is not meant to be smooth, only to cover entire surface. For this particular layer I encourage thinning the paint a bit to help it flow into recesses.

2  Next I applied a main layer of Dwarf Flesh. This time I tried to keep paint from flowing into recesses and made sure that it will cover all big flat areas.

3  I then applied a layer made of a 1:1 mix of Dwarf Flesh and Flesh over all raised areas. This is suposed to be the first highligh and provides a difference in skin tones over the model. Don't worry if some piant flows into recesses, just try to avoid covering everything with it.

4  Here came the flood of wash. I applied a 1:1 mix of Army Painter's Strong Tone Ink with Soft Tone Ink. As usual I didn't bother to be subtle about it.

5  Once dried, I highlighted skin with a 1:1 mix of Elf Skintone and Pale Flesh. This usually is the final highlight and is meant to POP the skin.

!  If I was to enchance skin a bit and move forward from this point, I would add points of focus with lines and dots of Pale Flesh. Some deeper spots can also be in-lined with Flesh Tone or some brown-ish wash to build contrast but that's for another article.

Nazroth

The Scarhandpainting of War

Thus we may know that there are five essentials for miniatures painting:
He will paint who knows when to paint and when not to paint.
He will paint who knows how to handle both superior and inferior brushes.
He will paint whose paints are mixed on the same palette throughout entire project.
He will paint who, prepared himself, waits to take the project undercoated.
He will paint who has hobby capacity and is not interfered with by the customer.

If you know the miniature and know your paints, you need not fear the result of a hundred paint jobs.

Remember Fifty Shades of Scarhandpainting? Well, it was published an uncountable number of hobby hours and over a thousand painted miniatures ago. Yes – today is my dear Scarhandpainting.com’s second anniversary and guess what – I totally forgot to get myself a present. At least you guys remembered and prepared a fantastic surprise for me: over 220000 visits from more than 90000 different IP’s throughout the year. That literally doubled last year’s results. I’m very excited to see how popular this site is. For me this is the best reward for all the effort put into expanding Blog’s content. It is insane that so many people visit my humble site and for that I thank all of you. Cheers!

THE FIGHT CONTINUES

Last twelve months were like a constant extatic frenzy of painting new, awesome projects, meeting fantastic people from around the world and hobbying all night long! Must say that this way of life suits me well, creating a variety of means to express myself through hobby. It brings me joy to interact with great people and see how they implement my ideas into their own projects. Sharing projects with an audience keeps me hyped and motivated, while providing tips and advice through hobby related articles helps me focus and grow as a painter. That’s why I plan to continue on a quest to bring even more projects and articles to life.

YEAR OF CHALLENGES

Looking at all these pictures I can’t help myself but feel satisfied. I’ve painted an entire spectrum of crazy awesome stuff from among both games I love and games I haven’t even heard of before. Some of these have really challenged my skill to the limits, while others felt like visiting a good old friend. If this is how next twelve months would look like then count me in!

At this point I would like to thank all of my friendstomers, without whom this fantastic trip wouldn’t be possible. I appreciate your support, all the hobby chatter and trust you bestowed upon me.

Special thanks to Andreas, Thomas, Jek and Behemoth. I am honoured with your trust and friendship. You have my axe, my bow and my brush!

THE BEST OF

The number of articles grew exponentially since first anniversary. Below is a list of articles that you found most interresting throughout last twelve months (ordered at random).

TUTORIAL: PHOTOGRAPHIC SETUP

TUTORIAL: INFINITY DIY CONSOLE

TUTORIAL: PAINTING ‘INFINITY’ BLACK

TUTORIAL: PAINTING MARBLE

TUTORIAL: PAINTING NOMAD RED ARMOUR

TUTORIAL: INFINITY ‘DO IT YOURSELF’ GAMING TERRAIN

COLOUR RECIPES: FALLEN FRONTIERS RIFFS

TUTORIAL: PAINTING MICRO ART STUDIO CONCRETE WALLS

REVIEW: ARMY PAINTER TUFTS

COLOUR RECIPES: INFINITY USARF

REVIEW: CORAX WHITE SPRAY

PAINTING PHILOSOPHY part three EDGE OF TOMORROW

WITNESS ME!

With two sharp brushes in hands, chest wet from dripping paint and fierce warcry on my twisted lips I urge you to ‘Witness Me!’ as I face another year of insanely cool projects! What lays ahead cannot be described with simple words. Follow me and see for yourself!

Nazroth

REVIEW: PROSHAKER

Have you ever woke up after a day of painting, hands searing with agony? Do you shake your paints yourself or use futuristic technology to do it for you? Now in all seriousness – have you ever considered getting a proper paint shaker? I have recently decided to treat myself with one. Below are my thoughts about it…

PROSHAKER

So yeah – Recently I’ve obtained a ProShaker – Professional Gel Polish and Lacquer Shaker. Before I chose this model I’ve made a short research in the web and compared it with two other popular, hobby friendly shakers: Nadeco Nail Lacquer Shaker and Robart Hobby Paint Shaker. Don’t know much about the company that produces ProShaker but it looked impressive and durable when compared to other two. It also operates at a wider spectrum of movement so I’ve figured it will provide better results. Purchased via AliExpress, got here in (wow!) just four days and so far I am happy about it, but first things first.

INSIDE THE BOX

Inside the box there are:

* Liquid Shaker’s main body, wraped in a double cardboard casing,

* Power plug,

* Spare springs,

* Quick start manual,

QUALITY

Made mostly out of hard, lacquered metal, with sturdy plastic parts and mechanism hidden in a special compartment – ProShaker seems to be of a good quality and durable. It’s simplicity wotks as an advantage as there are not many parts that can get damaged. The main body is very heavy (seems like about 5kg) and holds in place while working. Power plug is a standard issue, nothing special – it can be easily replaced if broken. I’m not especially fond of a on/off switch, would preffer a more solid, plastic button – but this one does it’s job so I’ll give it a free pass.

PERFORMANCE

ProShaker is very simple to use – just put a paint into the holder and cap it, switch on, wait 60 seconds till it automatically switches off. The holder works fine with Army Painter, Vallejo, Games Workshop and even P3 bottles. Advertised to perform with about 500 rotations per minute – In my opinion it seems more like 4 per second, which gives about half the declared speed – still quite good.

One thing that I find unpleasant about ProShaker’s performance is the noise. It has nothing to do with ‘Smooth, quiet operation’ proudly displayed on the box – and is rather annoying. This might be because I have a brand new piece and it’ll take some time before it lubricates properly. If not – I will use a special spray grease and it should tone the noise down a notch.

Once ‘shaked’ the paint is mixed pretty well. ProShaker managed to effectively mix even a Games Workshop’s ‘dry’ paint, which is a deed in itself. It works especially well with paints that have a pigmentation issue – something that requires a lot of work to properly mix.

PRICE and COMPETITION

ProShaker is an expensive toy. Prices varry between 90$ and up to 170$. Add to it a shipment cost and potential customs and damn – this thing is not for everyone. Still, the quality seems worth it, especially when compared to competition.

From what I’ve seen there are two major competitors to ProShaker, that provide similar results.

Nadeco Nail Lacquer Shaker

It comes in many variations. Price between 20$ and 40$ is certainly a big advantage over a ProShaker, but the quality is clearly inferior. Type of movement is limited to left-right vibration.

 

Robart Hobby Paint Shaker

This seems to be the same thing as the one above, altho it is nicely reskined and priced over 40$ and up to 70$. Casing looks way better than Nadeco, but I couldn;t find any information about the material it is made of. This one is based in the USA so it’s way more expensive for poor folks in the EU due to customs – have that in mind.

IS IT FOR ME?

Assuming price not being an issue, the question you should ask yourself when considering such a toy is – would it really be optimal for you. It’s nothing more but pure economy of work. In my line of work I simply do not have time to ‘masturbate’ my paints, looking outside the window all day long. Time is of an essence, not to mention hands fatigue – I’d rather paint. On top of that there are results, which in case of some types of paints are impressive. So – there’s that.

WHAT TO LOOK OUT FOR?

One important thing that comes to mind is the power plug. I have seen over a dozen AliExpress and Ebay offers, where there was no choice nor information as to what type of a power plug is in the box. In the end I purchased from a seller that provided a choice between EU/UK/US power plug – but be advised to check this out before getting one yourself.

SUMMARY

After using ProShaker throughout entire day of painting I’d say I am pretty happy with my new toy. Yes, price is an overkill and that goes for every shaker mentioned in the article, but like most lasting professional hobby tools – this is a once in a lifetime purchase. From now on I can spend more time with miniatures and less time shaking paints. If I was to tag this purchase on a scale where 10 is life changing, 8 is good, 6 is ok, 5 is mediocre, 3 is bad and I don’t want to even mention 1 – taking quality, price and performance into consideration – I would settle for a 7. That’s because I was expecting a bit more with some particular paints, but also got good results with most of them. Let’s just say – money well spent.

Agree/Disagree? There’s a comment section below where you can stand for your opinion 😉

Nazroth