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Monthly Archives:June 2017

TUTORIAL: PAINTING CORREGIDOR BASES (BASIC)

In this Step-by-Step tutorial I would like to take you on a spin with some Micro Art Studio’s Corregidor Bases. Guys from MAS did a fantastic job painting this product, but I have my own way which I would like to share with you. Buckle up and let’s get to it!

I USED:

* Regular Brush,

* Stippling Brush,

* Black,

* Tin Bitz / Warplock Bronze (GW)

* Eshin Grey (GW),

* Strong Tone Ink (AP),

* Gun Metal (AP),

* Shining Silver (AP),

* Scorched Brown (GW),

* Calthan Brown (GW),

* Ryza Rust (GW),

* Lugganath Orange (GW),

* Flayed One Flesh (GW),

 

!  You can achieve similar results using different paints as long as you followTutorial's basics. For example Eshin Grey (GW) might be switched for Panzer Dark Grey (Val).

1  I started by applying a layer of Eshin Grey (GW) to all raised areas of the base, over Black undercoat. Just a hint that applying two slightly diluted layers goes much faster and produces a similar result.

2  I then moved to the mesh areas and painted them with Warplock Bronze (GW). Once again this paint might be diluted but this time no need to apply two layers - one will suffice.

3  Once Warplock Bronze dried out, I applied a layer of Gun Metal (AP). For best results I did this with regular brush and using a Flatbrush technique following:

Five Layers Technique – Metal  basis

4  Next Shining Silver (AP) came in. I applied one layer over Gun Metal with regular brush, Flatbrushing.

5  I then applied a wet, thick layer of Strong Tone Ink (AP) over entire base. Once it dried out - I applied another, identical layer. (Picture seem grey'ish - in real life this would look more brown and juicy)

!  orem ipsum dolor sit amet, Integer commodo tristiqu odio, aliquet ut. Maecenas sed justo imperdiet bibendum. Vivamus nec sapien imperdiet diam. Aliquam erat volutpat. Sed onsectetur suscipit nunc et rutrum. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet,volutpat. Sed onsectetur suscipit nunc et rutrum. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, volutpat.

1  Using either a Stippling brush or a well used up large brush I applied stains of Scorched Brown (GW) over all raised areas. Was carefull not to use too much paint.

2  I then drybrushed edges and some large parts of raised areas using Calthan Brown (GW).

3  Next I Stippled some Ryza Rust (GW) on top of previous layer, ensuring to leave some Calthan Brown visible.

4  Same technique, different paint. I stippled Lugganath Orange (GW) on top of Ryza Rust layer, leaving previous layer visible on the sides of the new one.

!  From this layer onward I usually paint over both raised and mesh areas. For the purpose of this Tutorial I left mesh parts clean, but do not be alarmed if you see pictures of my own bases with a less differentiated colour scheme.

5  Flayed one Flesh (GW) followed. This time I Drybrushed over Lugganath Orange layer and then used regular brush to paint thin lines on the edges.

6  Adding a final touch I painted edges smooth Black to add contrast and keep the paint job clean.

That’s it – you have followed me on my short journey from black undercoat to finished Corregidor Bases. Below you will find some examples of finished Corregidor Bases. Each bunch turns out slightly different from the rest. That’s because a slight difference in surface coverage or layer to layer proportion might result in change of how eye can see these bases. Either way – here they are:

Nazroth

COLOUR RECIPES: SHADESPIRE STEELHEART’S CHAMPIONS

Here are some Colour Recipes for Steelheart’s Champions from GALLERY: SHADESPIRE STEELHEART’S CHAMPIONS. Please take note that this is a simple colour scheme, not covering multiple overlapping layers and blends inbetween, that lead to the final product. It is supposed to be used as guidline not a step-by-step.

GOLDEN armour:

Black Undercoat,

Mix Rust metallic (Val) 1:1 Blackk metallic (Val), *

Bright Bronze (Val), *

Mix Bright Bronze (Val) 1:1 Brass Balls (P3),

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),

Mix Brass Balls (P3) 1:1 Shining Silver (AP), l&p

 

BLUE:

Steel Blue (Val),

Magic Blue (Val),

Mix Magic Blue (Val) 1:1 French Blue (Val), l

Mix Magic Blue (Val) 1:1:1 French Blue (Val), Off White (Val), l&p

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),

Baharroth Blue (GW), l&p

Guilliman Blue (Gw), glaze

Off White (Val), l&p

SCROLLS:

Khaki (Val), *

Bonewhite (Val), *

Mix flayed one Flesh (GW) 1:1 Off White (Val),

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),

Off White (Val), l&p

Hot Orange (Val), gl

Gloss Varnish (Val), p

 

METAL weapons:

Black Undercoat,

Warplock Bronze (GW),

Gun Metal (AP),

Shining Silver (AP), l&p

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),

Shining Silver (AP), l&p

GREY belts & strips:

Black Undercoat,

Panzer DK. Grey (Val),

Fenrisian Grey (GW), flbr

Pallid Wych Flesh (GW), l&p

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),

Off White (Val), l&p

 

ORANGE hafts:

Black Undercoat,

Cavalry Brown (Val),

Orange Brown (Val), l&p

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),

Orange Brown (Val), l&p

Lugganath Orange (GW), l&p

Off White (Val), l&p

Hot Orange (Val), gl

 

BASES:

Medium Sea Grey (Val), *

Light Grey (Val)*,

Pale Grey (Val),*

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),

Off White (Val), l&p

Dirt (Val), bl

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP), bl

 

 

l&p – lines and points,

p – points,

bl – blend,

gl – glaze,

drbr – drybrush,

flbr – flatbrush,

stpl – stippling,

*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)

Nazroth

TUTORIAL: ERASING BLOOPERS

Painting bloopers – something that happens to all of us, hobbyists, regardless of skill level and experience. In my everyday painting practice bloopers happen all the time. This led me into ‘Improvise. Adapt. Overcome.’ kind of situation and today I would like to present to you a way of dealing with painting mistakes.

I USED:

  • Wooden toothpick
  • Water
  • Gentle touch and persistence 😛

1  First let's take a look at this ugly bastard of a line. One moment everything goes smooth, then BAM! and I end up with an ugly line that stands out like crazy. Repainting entire fragment of the coat with many layers is out of question. At this point I can only try to thin the line down by erasing part of it. I grab a wooden tootphick...

2  ...and dip it in a water filled bowl. After 15-20 seconds I use a paper towel to remove excess water from the softened tip of the toothpick. My 'Blooper Eraser' is ready for action.

3  I always start by touching the surface perpendicularly with the soft tip of the 'Blooper Eraser'. Then I move the tool gently up and down along the surface, softening the paint and stripping major shape of a blooper.

4  Once desirable shape is achieved, assuming I don't want to erase entire thing, I use an edge of the tip to further improve the shape.

5  Removing paint from the edges works very similarly, except that instead of the tip, I use side of the toothpick, . This way 'Blooper Eraser' is easy to control and stay on target.

And that’s actually it. You now know my secret technique of creating the ‘Blooper Eraser’ and saying goodbye to ugly bloopers. This technique works for me like a charm and I do hope it will work  for you as well. Cheers!

Nazroth

April 2018

April was a peculiar month. At first I had a lot of free time and not much to paint, so I let myself be occupied with my personal projects bringing Shadespire Sepulchral Guard, Shadespire Garrek’s Reavers and a ‘Shadeglass Scenery’ Special Project to live. Once done I moved to BIG STUFF including AVP Cheyenne Dropship, entire Sector Imperialis Gameboard and a Tabletop World Wizard’s Tower. Other than that I also delivered an Infinity the Game test commission of Yu-Jing miniatures and being  hyped with how it turned out I moved to a grand finish with some of my own Nomad miniatures. An interresting mix of projects to fill the void that appeared lately. Fortunatelly more stuff is going to happen soon 😉

“SHADEGLASS SCENERY’ Special Project – View gallery…

Shadespire GARREK’S REAVERS ‘Chrome & Shiny’ – View gallery…

Shadespire SEPULCHRAL GUARD ‘Witness Me!’ – View gallery…

Aliens vs Predator CHEYENNE DROPSHIP ‘Fast & Furious’ – View gallery…

Infinity NOMADS – View gallery…

Infinity MISCAELLOUS – View gallery…

Thomas’s Peculiar Collection: Scenery – View gallery…

Realm of Battle Sector Imperialis board

Nazroth

COLOUR RECIPES: SHADESPIRE GARREK’S REAVERS

Here are some Colour Recipes for Garrek’s Reavers from GALLERY: SHADESPIRE GARREK’S REAVERS. Please take note that this is a simple colour scheme, not covering multiple overlapping layers and blends inbetween, that lead to the final product. It is supposed to be used as guidline not a step-by-step.

SKULLS:

Black Undercoat,

Bonewhite (Val),

Skeleton Bone (AP),

Mix Skeleton Bone (AP) 1:1 Off White (AP), l&p

Off White (Val), l&p

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),

Off White (Val), l&p

 

SKIN:

Black Undercoat,

Red Terracotta (Val), *

Dwarf Skin (Val), *

Flesh (Val), *

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),

Dwarf Skin (Val), bl

Flesh (Val), b

Tanned Flesh (Val), gl

Flesh (Val), l&p

RED armour:

Black Undercoat,

Red Terracotta (Val), *

Khorne Red (GW),

Mephiston Red (GW),

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),

Fire Dragon Bright (GW), l&p

Lugganath Orange (GW), l&p

Streaking Grime (AK),

 

METAL armour:

Black Undercoat,

Warplock Bronze (GW),

Gun Metal (AP),

Shining Silver (AP), l&p

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),

Shining Silver (AP), l&p

BROWN belts & strips:

Red Terracotta (Val), * undercoat,

Pallid Wych Flesh (GW), flbr

Off White (Val), l&p

Mix: Scorched Brown (Val) 1:1:1 Dark Fleshtone (Val), Medium,

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),

 

GREY clothes:

Black Undercoat,

Panzer DK. Grey (Val),

Fenrisian Grey (GW), flbr

Pallid Wych Flesh (GW), l&p

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),

Off White (Val), l&p

BASES:

Medium Sea Grey (Val), *

Light Grey (Val)*,

Pale Grey (Val),*

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),

Off White (Val), l&p

Dirt (Val), bl

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP), bl

Off White (Val), l&p

 

l&p – lines and points,

p – points,

bl – blend,

gl – glaze,

drbr – drybrush,

flbr – flatbrush,

stpl – stippling,

*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)

Nazroth

COLOUR RECIPES: SHADESPIRE SEPULCHRAL GUARD

Here are some Colour Recipes for Sepulchral Guard from GALLERY: SHADESPIRE SEPULCHRAL GUARD. Please take note that this is a simple colour scheme, not covering multiple overlapping layers and blends inbetween, that lead to the final product. It is supposed to be used as guidline not a step-by-step.

BONES:

Black Undercoat,

Dark Earth (Val), *

Khaki Brown (Val), *

Bonewhite (Val), *

Mix Bonewhite (Val) 1:1 White, *

Off White (Val), l&p, stpl

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),

Streaking Grime (AK),

Off White (Val), l&p, stpl

METAL armour:

Black Undercoat,

Warplock Bronze (GW),

Gun Metal (AP),

Shining Silver (AP), l&p

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),

Shining Silver (AP), l&p

Streaking Grime (AK),

 

BROWN belts & strips:

‘BONES’ undercoat,

Mix: Scorched Brown (Val) 1:1:1 Dark Fleshtone (Val), Medium,

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),

Flayed One Flesh (GW), l&p

Off White (Val), l&p

 

BLUE clothes:

Black Undercoat,

Stegadon Scale Green (GW),

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),

Stegadon Scale Green (GW),

Mix Stegadon Scale Green (GW) 5:1 Off White (Val),

Mix Stegadon Scale Green (GW) 4:1 Off White (Val),

Mix Stegadon Scale Green (GW) 3:1 Off White (Val), l&p

Mix Stegadon Scale Green (GW) 2:1 Off White (Val), l&p

Mix Stegadon Scale Green (GW) 1:1 Off White (Val), l&p

Off White (Val), l&p

 

BASES:

Medium Sea Grey (Val), *

Light Grey (Val)*,

Pale Grey (Val),*

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),

Off White (Val), l&p

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP), bl

Dirt (Val), bl

Off White (Val), l&p

l&p – lines and points,

p – points,

bl – blend,

drbr – drybrush,

flbr – flatbrush,

stpl – stippling,

*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)

Nazroth

“SHADEGLASS SCENERY” SPECIAL PROJECT

“The Mirrored City of Shadespire is a nightmare plane of illusions and madness, an ever-changing labyrinth of endless stairs, cramped streets and soaring archways. The original city is drained of all colour and life, and for thousands of years, it has rested as a foreboding ruin. Those unfortunate, brave, or foolhardy adventurers that set foot within its walls are drawn through the veil between realms and trapped within the Mirrored City. For such wayward souls, all hope seems lost. Yet there are those who will not accept their fate without a fight.”

CONCEPT:

Whenever I pick a new title I always crave to have an ultimate gaming set – the same happened with Warhammer Underworlds: Shadespire. It started when I’ve finished working on a small Shadespire commission and  was instantly drawn into the game. Two days later I was already painting my first warband – the Sepulchral Guard, but it wasn’t enough to quench my hobbystic thirst. I moved to another warband, being Garrek’s Reavers, all the while my hype was kept strong by Shadespire facebook group – full of awesome inspiration. Somewhere in the middle of Garrek’s Reavers paint job I let myself be overwhelmed by hype and decided to go for a Shadespire scenery set. The idea was to keep it as crazy cool as I am capable of. Concept was there – inside my head – all along, fuelled by Shadespire’s background story and insanely sweet art from the rulebook. So, the scenery was to fit the board with a ‘ruined city of sorcery and mysticism’ theme in mind. Most important part: ‘Shadeglass’ – broken, ghostly lit mirrors incorporated to a variety of trinkets, statues, pools, wells etc.

CITY OF WANDERS:

The way I see scenery making is this:

* Prep all necessary reasources.

* Create a baseline shape and base it firmly.

* Apply basic texture.

* Add major features.

* Add detail.

* Polish.

* Paint.

I faced “Shadeglass Scenery” Project following these key points. Started by preparing all the stuff that seemed usable and/or necessary. I like my scenery to be light, durable and painting friendly, so I picked 3mm plasticard to become both bases and baseline shape. Used hot water to bend some pieces, then cut ‘walls’ and hex bases out of the stuff…

Plasticard is very easy to work with. Adding texture all over newly created ‘pieces’ was a matter of using a right tool, rather than sophisticated and time consuming techniques…

With texturized walls and bases I was ready to move to major features – Shadeglass vessels of all sorts and sizes. For this purpose I used perfume cups plundered from my wife’s collection. (At the point when I’m writing this article she already noticed all the missing cups – fortunatelly the scenery is done and we played with it so she’s more like – ‘for the greater good’)…

Throughout about twenty years in the hobby I accumulated a vast collection of bitz, altho untill recently skulls where a rare commodity in the collection – Praise Nagash, Games Workshop released a set of skulls thus rendering them near to unlimited. Skulls backstory aside – I used some bitz to add detail and points of focus to the scenery…

I then used self prepared Hobby Gravel to add more detail and make the scenery pieces look ‘ruined’. Once I was sure that each piece is telling it’s own story – final polish followed and all was ready to get painted…

NAGASH'S CURSE:

Painting a ruined city of sorcery and ghosts was an interresting transition between a colour recipe I use for Shadespire warband’s bases and working on a much more bigger scale. I decided to follow my guts – start as usual and then see where it would take me. Somewhere along the way I started adding blends of purple to compliment incomming ghostly green’ish-turquise hume. This turned out to be a bullseye hit, creating an illusion of morbid, colorful lights dancing across the ruins…

The ghostly hume of Shadeglass was a real challenge. I feel very comfortable with toxic green light, but going turquise is moving away from warm colour spectrum – my sphere of comfort. Still a hobbyist gotta do what a hobbyist gotta do – I braved the unknown with a mix of Vallejo’s Jade Green and White.

BROKEN MIRRORS:

Broken Shadeglass mirrors – a special feature and main theme of the scenery. Decided to approach this in two different ways. First are the hand painted broken mirrors, adorning walls. I simply airbrushed hard angles with a mix of Jade Green and White using a Scarhandpaing’s bussiness card like a stencil. I then adjusted transitions of particular ‘pieces’ of glass and made them more distinct with sharp white lining. Other vessels were a different story. I cut translucent plastic into shards and tossed them into resin-filled vessels. Some sunk instantly, while others stayed afloat – creating a really nice effect – which unfortunatelly looks much more badass in real life, than in the pictures.

THE CITY AWAITS:

The “Shadeglass Scenery” set is done and it have already seen some Shadespire action. Who knows what will come next if the hype continues? Either way – if you plan to venture into the Mirrored City – be sure to head there throug  “SHADEGLASS SCENERY” SPECIAL PROJECT gallery

Nazroth

March 2018

I ‘Marched’ like a real trooper. First I had some finishing touched on a big Infinity Operation: Ice Storm set to do. Then I moved to single Infinity Yu-Jing and Infinity Tohaa miniatures. Necromunda: Underhive got a small scenery update. “The Colony” Special Project had seen a major buff, with new scenery being added and old getting some themed paint job. Being hyped with scenery painting I followed up with some random Infinity scenery. Then a bomb came in – entire collection of Titan-Forge’s LOBOTOMY the board game. Being exhausted but also very satisfied I’ve finished with a bunch of awesome Warhammer Undergrounds – Shadespire miniatures. What a month!

Infinity OPERATION: ICE STORM – View gallery…

Infinity MISCAELLOUS – View gallery…

Infinity TOHAA ‘Witness Me!’ – View gallery…

NECROMUNDA: UNDERHIVE – View gallery…

“The Colony” Special Project – View gallery…

Infinity Scenery

LOBOTOMY – View gallery…

SHADESPIRE ‘Chrome & Shiny’ – View gallery…

Nazroth

“THE COLONY” SPECIAL PROJECT part ten

“The Colony” – an Infinity gaming board project that streaches in time and space.

Yes – The Colony Special Project lives on and dayum! I almost run out of space to store it! Last time (“THE COLONY” SPECIAL PROJECT part nine) I was pretty sure that once I airbrush a bit here and there, The Colony would finally be completed. Imagine my surprise when I saw how the project expanded since last article. So, let’s dive straight into it…

THE COLONY - part ten: NEW HEIGHTS

Leave no MDF behind

It finally happened – The Colony is now fully painted with no MDF, be it white or regular, visible. The project was set aside for few months, when all of a sudden I got new buildings from Gingermane and painted them to match my existing set. I then followed through with all the rest including bridges, food booths, walls and ad stands. Fortunatelly for me, Bocian from Gingermane is a cool bruh of mine and he cut thin paper pieces to cover all illustrations adorning his designs. I only had to take care to cover plexi elements by myself. Once done – my work went fast and easy. Few evenings was all it took.

Urban Peaks

The Colony is vast already, but there’s always room for some extra terrain pieces. With new Gingermane designs appearing every month it’s difficult to stop expanding . It gets even harder, as he let’s me peek on work in progress designs and I sometimes get to buy some before release. Obviously when I saw ‘SF024 The Tower’ I freaked out and demanded these be handed to me emmediately. Gosh how I love these two…

Moarrr Crates

Another addition to The Colony – ‘SF010 Cargo Crates’. Slowly my own designs and scrap-built scenery are forced off the gaming board. I don’t mind it, cause at this point I’m already hooked on Gingermane’s stuff either way 😛

Dark Adjustements

With ‘SF024 The Tower’ I intorudced black/grey colour to The Colony’s overall scheme. It seem to compliment the board so I followed up on this, going back to older scenery pieces. I wander if these, once paper box, buildings will ever rest…

Epilogue

One day ‘The Colony’ will be finished, but seeing how it changes time and time again I can only say TO BE CONTINUED…

 

Nazroth

COLOUR RECIPES: INFINITY OIS NOMADS

Here are some Colour Recipes for Nomads from GALLERY: INFINITY OPERATION ICE STORM. Please take note that this is a simple colour scheme, not covering multiple overlapping layers and blends inbetween, that lead to the final product. It is supposed to be used as guidline not a step-by-step.

RED armour & uniforms:

Black Undercoat,

Scarlet Red (Val), *

Orange Brown (Val), *

Red RLM 23 (Val), *

Elf Skintone (Val), l&p

Red Tone Ink (AP),

Hot Orange (Val), B

Lugganath Orange (GW), L&p

BLACK/GREY outfits & weapons:

Black Undercoat,

Skavenblight Dinge (GW),

Fenrisian Grey (GW),

Pallid Wych Flesh (GW), l&p

Dark Tone Ink (AP),

Pallid Wych Flesh (GW), l&p

White, l&p

LIGHT GREY outfits:

Black/Grey outfits +

Pallid Wych Flesh (GW), l&p

Pale Grey Wash (Val),

Off White (Val), l&p

SKIN:

Bugmans Glow (GW),

Dwarf Flesh (GW),

Flesh (Val),

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),

Flesh (Val) l&p,

GREEN lights:

Sick Green (VAL),

Escorpena Green (VAL),

MIX: Escorpena Green (VAL) 1:1 Off White (VAL), l&p

Waywatcher Green (GW), glaze

Light Livery green (VAL), blend

l&p – lines and points,

p – points,

b – blend,

drbr – drybrush,

flbr – flatbrush,

stpl – stippling,

*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)

Nazroth