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Monthly Archives:June 2017

“CLOCKWORK MODRONS” SPECIAL PROJECT

“In the fictional multiverse of the Dungeons & Dragons fantasy role-playing game, Modrons are creatures native to the outer plane of Mechanus. Modrons resemble geometric shapes with humanoid limbs and represent a living, physical manifestation of law without regard to good or evil. They follow a strict hierarchy, with each rank reporting to the rank directly above it, and issuing commands to the ones ranking beneath it. For example, a quadrone modron will report to a pentadrone, and command several tridrones.”

CONCEPT:

This Special Project is a part of the ever growing Thomas’s Peculiar Collection. With new D&D adventure just being released and the Modrons playing an important role in it – Thomas have asked me to prepare a set of Modrons of different shapes and sizes – to fill eventual requirements of his Game Master needs. He then provided some fantastic and imaginative materials to base my work on.

FROM DUST...

Thomas knew very well how to support his favorite Arcane Artificer for the grand task of creating an entire collection of Modrons. He ordered a variety of awesome hobby (and not entirely hobby) materials that were meant to bolster my own collection of ‘scrap’. With the concept already implanted in my mind and a magnificent drop of loot delivered by a courier – I spent half a day just segregating and preparing bitz and usable stuff for later use.

The project was then put on hold, due to other projects standing in the way (schedules must be met). Fortunatelly it did not took long and about a month later I reignited the spark of the arcane – sat down and started working on the Clockwork Modrons.

First a test subject, and then – upon it being accepted by my master – I worked day and night to bring more such magical creatures into being. Bodies invoked with use of wooden balls and smooth dice of many shapes. Sockets, joints and detail forged with decorative beads. Limbs created with toothpicks, bases cut of plasticard, weapons stolen from the Warhammer 40,000 miniatures… A wast production line was set up on my workbench and I was at the same time the coordinator, concept supervisor and the working force…

 

AND INTO THE ARCANE...

Some time passed, before totally exhausted and with fingers covered in a layer of hardened super glue, I reached the goal of creating vessels for souls of the Modrons to occupy. I then put a lot of effort to bolster them against the forces of gravity and potential stress they might suffer during games to come.

ANIMATING THE CONSTRUCTS...

For the Modrons to truly come alive I obviously had to do my magic and paint them. The entire process was long and not without challenges. Modrons are mechanical constructs so I decided to go ‘metal’ with a trusted Five Layer Technique: Metal. I then added more and more layers of different effects like rust streaks, smears, patina, splatters of stippled metal and some edges. In this the ‘AK Interactive’ paints became a vital factor. Slowly, steadily the Modrons came alive at my desk.

IT'S ALIIIIIVE!

Finally I’ve reached the goal and reported a success to my master. His bidding done I can now present to you the fruits of my arcane labour in the “CLOCKWORK MODRONS” Special Project gallery…

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Nazroth

COLOUR RECIPES: INFINITY HAQQISLAM

Here are some Colour Recipes for Infinity Haqqislam from GALLERY: INFINITY HAQQISLAM lvl 4. Please take note that this is a simple colour scheme, not covering multiple overlapping layers and blends inbetween, that lead to the final product. It is supposed to be used as guidline not a step-by-step.

SANDY armour:

Black Undercoat,

Light Brown (VAL),*

Bonewhite (Val),*

White, l&p

Soft Tone Ink (AP),

 

RED elements:

Sanguine Base (P3),

Mephiston Red (GW),

Evil Sunz Scarlet (GW),

Troll Slayer Orange (GW), l&p

Fire Dragon Broght (GW), l&p

GREEN lights:

Sick Green (VAL),

Escorpena Green (VAL),

MIX: Escorpena Green (VAL) 1:1 Off White (VAL), l&p

Waywatcher Green (GW), glaze

Light Livery green (VAL), blend

 

WHITE elements:

‘Sandy Armour’ base,

Pallid Wych Flesh (GW),

White,

White, corrections

BROWN elements:

‘Sandy Armour’ base,

Off White (VAL), l&p

Dark Fleshtone (VAL),

MIX: Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),

l&p – lines and points,

p – points,

b – blend,

drbr – drybrush,

flbr – flatbrush,

*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)

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COLOUR RECIPES: BLOOD BOWL HUMAN TEAM

Here are some Colour Recipes for Blood Bowl Human Team from GALLERY: BLOOD BOWL HUMAN TEAM. Please take note that this is a simple colour scheme, not covering multiple overlapping layers and blends inbetween, that lead to the final product. It is supposed to be used as guidline not a step-by-step.

GREEN armour:

Black Undercoat,

Olive Green (VAL),*

Light Green Chrm. (Val),*

Escorpena Green (Val),*

Mix Escorpena Green (Val) 1:1 Duck Egg Green (Val),*

Light Livery Green (Val), b

Waywatcher Green (GW),

Dark Green (Val), b

Green Tone Ink (AP),

Skarsnik Green (GW), l&p

BROWN clothes:

Charred Brown (Val),

Calthan Brown (GW),

Gorthor Brown (GW),

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP), Lahmian Medium (GW),

Karak Stone (GW), l&p

SKIN:

Bugmans Glow (GW),

Dwarf Flesh (GW),

Mix Dwarf Flesh (GW) 1:1 Elf Skintone (Val),

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),

Flesh (Val), l&p

YELLOW clothes:

Moldy Ochre (P3),

Pale Yellow (Val),

Pale Yellow (Val),

Flesh Tone Ink (AP),

METAL:

TUTORIAL: PAINTING ‘FIVE LAYERS’ METAL

l&p – lines and points,

p – points,

b – blend,

drbr – drybrush,

flbr – flatbrush,

*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)

 

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May 2017

May clearly stands out for diversity. I used this month to wrap up some of the smaller projects including Guildball Morticiant’s team and my own Infinity Nomads reinforcements. Then I moved to medium sized projects, starting with an interresting Malifaux Gremlins collection that turned out to be quite a challenge. Warhammer 40,000 Tau Empire wave followed up, bolstering the number of miniatures this vast collection consists of. I then let the muse loose over a Blood Bowl Human team, that was meant to be a surprise gift to a girlfriend of one of my friendstomers. A challenging Infinity Haqqislam project was the one to close the month. It was a special case as I was given a very thorough instructions on how to place particular colours in the scheme. It turned out really nice. Now I’m exhausted but also eager to open up June with some new projects.

Guild Ball MORTICIAN’S ‘Fast & Furious’– View gallery…

Malifaux GREMLINS ‘Chrome & Shiny’ – View gallery…

Warhammer 40,000 TAU EMPIRE ‘Fast & Furious’– View gallery…

Infinity CORREGIDOR – View gallery…

Blood Bowl Humans Team ‘Chrome & Shiny’ – View gallery…

Infinity HAQQISLAM ‘Chrome & Shiny’ – View gallery…

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TUTORIAL: MODELLING COBBLESTONE BASES

In this easy, step-by-step tutorial I’m going to show you how to create a Cobblestone Base in a what is probably the fastest and simplest way ever.

I USED:

  • Wallpaper*,
  • Basing Glue,
  • Flat (used up) Brush,
  • Hobby Knife,

*Just find a suitable one at a local builder’s store.

1  I started by covering entire base with Basing Glue.

2  I then cut off a piece of the wallpaper to be slightly larger then the base itself.

3  Next I glued the piece onto the base, turned the base upside down and cut off the excess of the wallpaper with a Hobby Knife.

4  Last step was to smoother the edges with a slightly moisted fingertip.

Now you see how insanely fast and easy this was. For the purpose of this tutorial I made just this simple base, but once you get your hands on a proper wallpaper, options are limitless. You can use it to texturize bases and terrain, add more detail or even mix different types of texture.

Zapisz

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COLOUR RECIPES: MALIFAUX GREMLINS

Here are some Colour Recipes for Malifaux Gremlins from GALLERY: MALIFAUX GREMLINS lvl 4. Please take note that this is a simple colour scheme, not covering multiple overlapping layers and blends inbetween, that lead to the final product. It is supposed to be used as guidline not a step-by-step.

BROWN clothes:

Black Undercoat,

Black Brown (Val),*

Bonewhite (Val),*

Dark Earth (Val),*

Dirt (Val),*

Leather Brown (Val),*p

Karak Stone (GW), l&p

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP), Lahmian Medium (GW),

Karak Stone (GW), l&p

GREEN skin:

Black Green (Val),*

Mix Black Green (Val) 1:1 Skarsnik Green (GW),

Mix Black Green (Val) 1:1:1 Skarsnik Green (GW), Escorpena Green (Val),

Mix Black Green (Val) 1:1:1:1 Skarsnik Green (GW), Escorpena Green (Val), Dead Flesh (Val),

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP), Lahmian Medium (GW),

Livery Green (Val),

BLUE/GREY clothes:

Uk Mediterranean Blue (Val),

Mix Uk Mediterranean Blue (Val) 2:1 Bonewhite (Val),

Mix Uk Mediterranean Blue (Val) 2:1 Off White (Val), l&p

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP), Lahmian Medium (GW),

Mix Uk Mediterranean Blue (Val) 1:1 Off White (Val), l&p

Off White (Val), l&p

SKIN:

Bugmans Glow (GW),

Dwarf Flesh (GW),

Mix Dwarf Flesh (GW) 1:1 Elf Skintone (Val),

Elf Skintone (Val) l&p,

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),

Flesh (Val) l&p,

METAL:

TUTORIAL: PAINTING ‘FIVE LAYERS’ METAL

BASES:

*ground
Dark Fleshtone (Val),*
Gorthor Brown (GW), drbr
Karak Stone (GW), drbr
Flayed One Flesh (GW), flbr

*metal
TUTORIAL: PAINTING ‘FIVE LAYERS’ METAL

*stones
Bastion Grey (P3),
Administratum Grey (GW),
Strong Tone Ink (AP),

*effects
Ryza Rust (GW),
Typhus Corrosion (GW),
Rust Streaks (AK),

 

l&p – lines and points,

p – points,

drbr – drybrush,

flbr – flatbrush,

*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)

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TUTORIAL: PHOTOGRAPHIC SETUP

Taking nice looking pictures of painted miniatures might be a real pain in the ass. In many cases this is a very frustrating and time consuming thing to do. I myself struggle with this part of hobbying. My GALLERY is full of pictures – some of which are good, some of which are bad, but for each picture actually featured, I had to take at least three others, which were trashed afterwards. Last year I had a breakthrough, with a professional camera being replaced by a Samsung Galaxy A5 phone. This switch buffed my photographic results tenfold. Not that my pictures started to look really good – nah, they just stopped looking like utter failure. Am I an authority when it comes to taking pictures? Surely not, but if you like my pictures and struggle with photographing your miniatures – maybe I will be able to help you – just a bit.

So, instead of telling you what to do, I would show you how I do it and what I actually use. I would also give you couple hints of what to avoid, when featuring your miniatures.

I USED:

  • Samsung Galaxy A5
  • Tripod
  • Shadow Tent
  • Grey Background
  • Two strong, white light sources

THE CAMERA:

As mentioned before, I used a professional camera before I switched to Samsung Galaxy A5. My main problem with a pro-camera was a lot of crazy options, which I did not understood very well. The complexity of a real-deal camera was just beyond my grasp. Sure, I lowered ISO and tinkered with other settings but to no avail. All the while pictures I took looked really, reeeally bad, with colours going crazy. Upon obtaining a new phone I took some random pictures and to my surprise found out that they look amazing, when compared to what I used to get before. Phone camera options might be limited, but that does not necessarily mean a bad thing. Phones are designed to be user friendly and idiot-proof. That works for me 😉

The current camera setup I use is:

  • The highest possible resolution (13m pixels, 4:3)
  • Auto settings

As you can see – not much to brag about. The best thing about my beloved Samsung is how people react when I tell them all the pics were taken with a phone – priceless…

TRIPOD:

Sometimes I use a cheap (about 10€) tripod, other times I just stack some boxes on one another and hold the camera still on top of it with a “milliput”. Regardless of which method I choose – everything is about keeping my camera perfectly still, slightly above and centered on the miniatures. This helps me keep my pictures sharp and of the same quality. I preffer to keep the camera about 25-30cm from the miniature – this way I get the best results.

In my opinion there’s no need for a professional tripod – here’s how I do it:

SHADOW TENT:

This one is great for keeping the colours balanced and close to real-deal. Shadow tent is a cheap addition to the ‘allmighty photographer’s studio’. Totally underpriced for what it does. For me it eliminated any need to tinker with the pictures in graphic program. Except for adding my logo and frame off course…

BACKGROUND:

Modellers use a variety of different, interresting backgrounds to take pictures with. In my case grey seems to work best. Blue and white are difficult to take pictures with, sometimes turning colours to a juicy crazyness, or blurring white. Black in the other hand reflects light, unless the picture is made in deep shadow. Ever seen these pictures of miniatures, where base’s rant and deep shadows are swallen by the background? Seeing these I’m pretty sure that the real deal miniature looks totally different. So a piece of grey paper it is for me. Not best, but does it’s job and does not mess with colours too much, which for me is the top priority.

LIGHT SETUP:

Many times I had a great set up with camera being positioned perfectly, a shadow tent and trusted background in place – still everything went wrong due to bad light positioning.This one is not difficult, but have a great impact on the quality of the pictures.

I use two Velleman VTLAMP6, which provide a strong, white light on a vast area. There are no more light sources in the room, with windows being covered. The primary light source is located behind the camera and about 25-30cm above it. It is centered on the miniature so that everything, including recesses is clear to see. The secondary light source is located over the miniature and slightly before it. This way shadows are delicate, colours are kept sharp and natural and the camera isn’t blinded by the secondary light source. Why two light sources instead of just one? Mainly to show as much of the real paint job without areas covered in deep shadow, as possible.

Beware of the shadows! If I wanted to deceive you I would have faked additional highlights on all the areas by using only one light source positioned vertically over the miniature. Cheating with light might bring some great results in the picture, but these will be instantaneously dispelled upon seeing the miniature in real life.

BAD PICTURES:

What is a ‘bad picutre’? I would know – I took thousands of these over the years. White going off the scale. Black being too dark. Colours being juicy to a point of totally unreal. Colours going yellow. Shadows being too deep. Light being bounced off some colours. Colours being blurred. Backround being too dark and messing up the colours. All of these and more. Below are some examples of pictures I took, some of which I was even happy about at the time. Now – just can’t look at this crap, cause none of these shows the actual miniature, that I worked hard to paint.

And here’s the newest one, taken with setup mentioned in this tutorial. Overall this is the closest to the real-deal that I am able to produce. I would say that with my monitor setup this is a 95% match. Quite a difference when compared to the previous pictures isn’t it?

So – now you know all the photographic tricks up in my sleeves. A phone camera, tripod, shadow tent, simple grey background and two strong light sources in a dark room. I really know that feeling when you are proud of a paint job and want to share it, but the pictures look like crap, or totally unreal, or both. If this tutorial helps at least one hobbyist to feel good about his pictures – then it was worth it 🙂

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“THE COLONY” SPECIAL PROJECT part eight

It has been six months of peace for The Colony Special Project. I’ve mentioned before that such grand projects are never fully complete – so here I am, adding even more stuff to the already vast collection of scenery. The reason for this is obviously the restless muse, but also I grew up to a decision to expand my scenery collection. On top of more variety I will be able to cover two gaming boards and that might come in handy from time to time…

THE COLONY - part eight: NEVERENDING STORY

 

Going Double

Not so long ago I have attended a big Infinity the Game event. About 40 participating players, including some of my friends. As a co-organizer I took The Colony with me, so that along with Micro Art Studio, Zen Terrain and After Hours Workshop, there were more fully painted tables at the event. I even streched my terrain set to cover two gaming tables, thus was hyped by the vision of creeping onto another 48×48″ board. At that point I already had some new stuff purchased at Antenocitis, so it’s not like I was ever going to stop anyway 😛

Still, once the dust settled and I had a moment to thik about it, I realized that more terrain was inevitable if I was to do it again in the future…

Filling Spaces

The idea was to build more interresting stuff to fill all the empty spaces between buildings. At that point more buildings were rather out of question as I’d rather produced terrain pieces to improove single gaming table, with an option to allow me to eliminate vast empty spaces if I went double…

New Sculptures

The obvious choice was to produce more sculptures, as these look nice, are awesome LOF blockers and work pretty well with the theme of The Colony.

For this purpose I used a hard box and some random leftovers provided by friendly Terrain making companies and my wife.

Fountain Sculpture

This one was a totally new approach to the ‘sculpture’ idea. The exclusive Winsor & Newton brush box was an inspiration on it’s own and summed with my newly acquired experience in using clear resin – a fountain or a pond was a must go. I decided to use wooden balls as a sculpture to compliment the water theme with their smooth oval shapes. Now I feel like a second Winsor & Newton box is soon to follow…

Plant Compartments 2.0

Plant compartments from THE COLONY – part seven: BEYOND are by far one of the best Infinity scenery pieces I have created. They have the looks but are also very playable, providing a lot of cover and breaking long shooting corridors. Yves Saint Laurent cosmetics plug and couple more drill covers, that I received from a friend, and an I was ready to build another Plant compartment. This time tho I lacked some of the MDF pieces, necessary to build an exact copy of the previous template. I decided to do some magic and tinker a bit with the design – using materials I actually had.

I also redesigned the plant to add variety on the table. These were made using a method from THIS TUTORIAL. It is simple and very effective and can be used to create many awesome shapes and textures. It took me around ten minutes to prepare three of these, so if you ever wandered if you should try the tutorial out – just go for it 😉

Food Mashines

These three were inspired by boredom and awesome looking Orbit Gum pendants. Upon seeing the pendants I grabbed a bunch of them, knowing well that they will come in handy in the future. Did not took much time to try and use them for Infinity scenery and a set of Food Mashines (closed and secured cause ‘Nomads are in town’) are now complete. On top of three Orbit pendants I mostly used trash and leftovers, but there also are some special MDF pieces which you probably reckognize by now.

Epilogue

Another weekend well spent. Now I can’t stop to think about other ways of using clear resin, wooden balls, basing-super glue made plants and all the new stuff. Might also want to shift my attention to designing the actual MDF scenery as recently I’ve entered into an arrangement with Every Little War which will tweak some of my stuff, including Objective Room and provide it in the online offer. A lot of stuff to wait for XD

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April 2017

I was carried into April on a wave of Tabbletop World’s awesome scenery. Infinity ALEPH followed shortly, updating an already grand collection. This kept me occupied throughout first week, after which I took three giant boxes of painted stuff on a spin to Czech Republic, Austria, Slovakia and Hungary. Was cool to visit some of my foreign friendstomers, play some games and actually rest a little. Upon my return Easter got me, so no painting for another three days… after which I finally sat down and got back to work. I started with a small addition to Thomas’s Peculiar Collection, adding a D&D Collector’s Series Purple Wurm to it. I then focused my energy on improoving The Colony – an Infinity the Game board of my own. In the end I painted a bunch of Infinity Panoceania miniatures and thus the month ended. May, I hope you’re ready for me, cause I’m closing on you fast!

Thomas’s Peculiar Collection: Scenery – View gallery…

Infinity ALEPH ‘Chrome & Shiny’ – View gallery…

Thomas’s Peculiar Collection: Creatures – View gallery…

Infinity PANOCEANIA ‘Chrome & Shiny’ – View gallery…

 

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REVIEW: DUNGEONS & DRAGONS COLLECTOR’S SERIES

DUNGEONS & DRAGONS

Who does not know Dungeons & Dragons from either paperback or PC role-playing games? I myself am a big fan of D&D franchise due to uncountable hours spent gaming or reading related stories. D&D offers a lot to our imagination, but in the recent years Wizards of the Coast took extreme efforts to both promote and expand the variety of products branded with the holy D&D logo. Well, as it happened, there is a vast series of miniatures designed to fit the universe of D&D. Easy to say that I was thrilled to work with some of the Dungeons & Dragons Collector’s Series. More so, when I saw the boxes delivered by a courier. These looked really sweet and the designs and intricate detail presented in the cover was pushing my impatience into the danger zone!

PACKAGING: 5/10

When it comes to how these miniatures are packed I can only say that the boxes look great. Classic D&D style with nicely painted miniatures in the cover. Unfortunatelly looks are the only thing of value, as the protection offered by the box is rather mediocre. Inside each box I found a protective layer of cardboard supposed to keep miniatures from harms way when it comes to some degree of damage, but failing exponentially to keep the miniatures from being crushed. That’s because one long wall of the casing is loose and not supported by the short one . On top of that each miniature was wraped in a piece of bubble wrap for additional protection, but the boxes were not filled to the brim. This led to miniatures being thrown up and down during transportation and some small details were damaged beyond repair. This would be totally ok in case of regular plastic miniatures, but resin, of which these are made, is crunchy as hell and was punished severely by the lack of better protection.

QUALITY: 2/10

I must confess that the first impression when I took a closer look at the miniatures was ‘what the fuck?!’ I was almost blown off the chair and couldn’t believe that Wizards of the Coast accepted this quality to actually hit the stores. Some might say that Games Workshop or Corvus Belli’s quality spoiled me, but guys – this seemed unreal. I was swearing under my nose and shaking my head with disbelief. The miniatures presented in the pictures where nothing close to the final product and as much as I understand how things work with modelling and that some miniatures require additional preparation – I considered calling the friendstomer and declining the commission. This would have been the first time in my entire career. I really like the particular friendstomer so I decided to inform him of the quality and proceed with the miniatures, but the bad taste follows me up to this day…

 

So, what is actually wrong with the miniatures? Everything… I know how it sounds, but just take a look at the pictures below and weep. Oily surface with dimmed details, holes, extreme mold lines, shifted form, shifted surfaces, broken parts and unbelievable differences between the pictures and the real deal. Add to it that almost all thin parts were distorted and you might have a dim idea of what I faced. Atop of that some parts just did not fit each other, creating huge gaps inbetween. This last one was a common thing in every big creature from the series I have worked upon, but almost each miniature had some major defects. Even the bases looked like crap and that is not something I usually deal with…

VISUALS: 6/10

The ideas and designs for D&D miniatures are really nice and if not for extremely bad quality these might have been a group of really awesome products. What pains me the most is the amount of work required to bring these to a decent level so that they might be painted. I never done so before, but upon agreeing with the owner I just had to skip some of the defects or in one case even trashed a miniature. I don’t know how these would fare if not for specific style I choose for the job. I won’t lie – upon finishing the commission I was happy with the effect, but would always feel like these might have been done better if the quality let me. For this reason and taking the quality factor into consideration I must give a ‘6’ which is just ‘OK’.

FUNCTIONALITY: 3/10

I already mentioned the defects that clearly translate into bad modelling experience. Instead of repeating myself I would like to point out two more things.

  1. Material used for the miniatures is very fragile and does not work well with the super glue. It has high contractility thus leading to even the big parts being distorted and not fitting each other.
  2. Designs for casting ducts and casting templates are horrendous, obscuring important details, leading to excess resin leaks and detriments in key fragments of the miniatures.

Most of the quality issues could have been avoided by simply improoving the casting ducts and redesigning the way the miniatures are divided into particular parts. All in all the quantity of work required to prepare the miniatures was insane. I would never call these even close to proper and functional. Actually I think that the Wizkids Dungeons & Dragons miniatures might be much more hobbyist friendly than the Collector’s Series… and these are made of gum…

 

PRICE: 2/10

Here’s probably the craziest thing. For the quality and functionality already described a box of approximately five to six miniatures is around 50€ (E-bay prices). Let’s say that these are of perfect quality, then they still would have been a bit overpriced but fully acteptable. With ‘crap in the box’ that you get the pricing is just ridiculous! 🙂

 

SUMMARY: 3/10

Miniatures should look cool and working with them should certainly be fun. I tend to pick products that I really like for a review, but once in a while I feel compelled to shout a warning to fellow hobbyists and this is just such an occasion. On a scale where 10 is awesome, 8 is good, 6 is ok, 5 is mediocre, 3 is bad and I don’t want to even mention 1 – I would give a 3 to Dungeons & Dragons Collector’s Series and would advice you to avoid these products if able. I myself would decline taking these to my desk, unless these are for a particular friendstomer of mine in which case I will make an exception, cuz he’s my bro.

 

Please remember that this is just my personal opinion, based on my own experiences and you have full right to disagree. I wish all of you the best possible experience with Dungeons & Dragons Collector’s sets and that I’m ultimately wrong about this series.

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