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Monthly Archives:December 2016

TUTORIAL: MODELLING COBBLESTONE BASES

In this easy, step-by-step tutorial I’m going to show you how to create a Cobblestone Base in a what is probably the fastest and simplest way ever.

I USED:

  • Wallpaper*,
  • Basing Glue,
  • Flat (used up) Brush,
  • Hobby Knife,

*Just find a suitable one at a local builder’s store.

1  I started by covering entire base with Basing Glue.

2  I then cut off a piece of the wallpaper to be slightly larger then the base itself.

3  Next I glued the piece onto the base, turned the base upside down and cut off the excess of the wallpaper with a Hobby Knife.

4  Last step was to smoother the edges with a slightly moisted fingertip.

Now you see how insanely fast and easy this was. For the purpose of this tutorial I made just this simple base, but once you get your hands on a proper wallpaper, options are limitless. You can use it to texturize bases and terrain, add more detail or even mix different types of texture.

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COLOUR RECIPES: MALIFAUX GREMLINS

Here are some Colour Recipes for Malifaux Gremlins from GALLERY: MALIFAUX GREMLINS lvl 4. Please take note that this is a simple colour scheme, not covering multiple overlapping layers and blends inbetween, that lead to the final product. It is supposed to be used as guidline not a step-by-step.

BROWN clothes:

Black Undercoat,

Black Brown (Val),*

Bonewhite (Val),*

Dark Earth (Val),*

Dirt (Val),*

Leather Brown (Val),*p

Karak Stone (GW), l&p

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP), Lahmian Medium (GW),

Karak Stone (GW), l&p

GREEN skin:

Black Green (Val),*

Mix Black Green (Val) 1:1 Skarsnik Green (GW),

Mix Black Green (Val) 1:1:1 Skarsnik Green (GW), Escorpena Green (Val),

Mix Black Green (Val) 1:1:1:1 Skarsnik Green (GW), Escorpena Green (Val), Dead Flesh (Val),

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP), Lahmian Medium (GW),

Livery Green (Val),

BLUE/GREY clothes:

Uk Mediterranean Blue (Val),

Mix Uk Mediterranean Blue (Val) 2:1 Bonewhite (Val),

Mix Uk Mediterranean Blue (Val) 2:1 Off White (Val), l&p

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP), Lahmian Medium (GW),

Mix Uk Mediterranean Blue (Val) 1:1 Off White (Val), l&p

Off White (Val), l&p

SKIN:

Bugmans Glow (GW),

Dwarf Flesh (GW),

Mix Dwarf Flesh (GW) 1:1 Elf Skintone (Val),

Elf Skintone (Val) l&p,

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),

Flesh (Val) l&p,

METAL:

TUTORIAL: PAINTING ‘FIVE LAYERS’ METAL

BASES:

*ground
Dark Fleshtone (Val),*
Gorthor Brown (GW), drbr
Karak Stone (GW), drbr
Flayed One Flesh (GW), flbr

*metal
TUTORIAL: PAINTING ‘FIVE LAYERS’ METAL

*stones
Bastion Grey (P3),
Administratum Grey (GW),
Strong Tone Ink (AP),

*effects
Ryza Rust (GW),
Typhus Corrosion (GW),
Rust Streaks (AK),

 

l&p – lines and points,

p – points,

drbr – drybrush,

flbr – flatbrush,

*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)

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TUTORIAL: PHOTOGRAPHIC SETUP

Taking nice looking pictures of painted miniatures might be a real pain in the ass. In many cases this is a very frustrating and time consuming thing to do. I myself struggle with this part of hobbying. My GALLERY is full of pictures – some of which are good, some of which are bad, but for each picture actually featured, I had to take at least three others, which were trashed afterwards. Last year I had a breakthrough, with a professional camera being replaced by a Samsung Galaxy A5 phone. This switch buffed my photographic results tenfold. Not that my pictures started to look really good – nah, they just stopped looking like utter failure. Am I an authority when it comes to taking pictures? Surely not, but if you like my pictures and struggle with photographing your miniatures – maybe I will be able to help you – just a bit.

So, instead of telling you what to do, I would show you how I do it and what I actually use. I would also give you couple hints of what to avoid, when featuring your miniatures.

I USED:

  • Samsung Galaxy A5
  • Tripod
  • Shadow Tent
  • Grey Background
  • Two strong, white light sources

THE CAMERA:

As mentioned before, I used a professional camera before I switched to Samsung Galaxy A5. My main problem with a pro-camera was a lot of crazy options, which I did not understood very well. The complexity of a real-deal camera was just beyond my grasp. Sure, I lowered ISO and tinkered with other settings but to no avail. All the while pictures I took looked really, reeeally bad, with colours going crazy. Upon obtaining a new phone I took some random pictures and to my surprise found out that they look amazing, when compared to what I used to get before. Phone camera options might be limited, but that does not necessarily mean a bad thing. Phones are designed to be user friendly and idiot-proof. That works for me 😉

The current camera setup I use is:

  • The highest possible resolution (13m pixels, 4:3)
  • Auto settings

As you can see – not much to brag about. The best thing about my beloved Samsung is how people react when I tell them all the pics were taken with a phone – priceless…

TRIPOD:

Sometimes I use a cheap (about 10€) tripod, other times I just stack some boxes on one another and hold the camera still on top of it with a “milliput”. Regardless of which method I choose – everything is about keeping my camera perfectly still, slightly above and centered on the miniatures. This helps me keep my pictures sharp and of the same quality. I preffer to keep the camera about 25-30cm from the miniature – this way I get the best results.

In my opinion there’s no need for a professional tripod – here’s how I do it:

SHADOW TENT:

This one is great for keeping the colours balanced and close to real-deal. Shadow tent is a cheap addition to the ‘allmighty photographer’s studio’. Totally underpriced for what it does. For me it eliminated any need to tinker with the pictures in graphic program. Except for adding my logo and frame off course…

BACKGROUND:

Modellers use a variety of different, interresting backgrounds to take pictures with. In my case grey seems to work best. Blue and white are difficult to take pictures with, sometimes turning colours to a juicy crazyness, or blurring white. Black in the other hand reflects light, unless the picture is made in deep shadow. Ever seen these pictures of miniatures, where base’s rant and deep shadows are swallen by the background? Seeing these I’m pretty sure that the real deal miniature looks totally different. So a piece of grey paper it is for me. Not best, but does it’s job and does not mess with colours too much, which for me is the top priority.

LIGHT SETUP:

Many times I had a great set up with camera being positioned perfectly, a shadow tent and trusted background in place – still everything went wrong due to bad light positioning.This one is not difficult, but have a great impact on the quality of the pictures.

I use two Velleman VTLAMP6, which provide a strong, white light on a vast area. There are no more light sources in the room, with windows being covered. The primary light source is located behind the camera and about 25-30cm above it. It is centered on the miniature so that everything, including recesses is clear to see. The secondary light source is located over the miniature and slightly before it. This way shadows are delicate, colours are kept sharp and natural and the camera isn’t blinded by the secondary light source. Why two light sources instead of just one? Mainly to show as much of the real paint job without areas covered in deep shadow, as possible.

Beware of the shadows! If I wanted to deceive you I would have faked additional highlights on all the areas by using only one light source positioned vertically over the miniature. Cheating with light might bring some great results in the picture, but these will be instantaneously dispelled upon seeing the miniature in real life.

BAD PICTURES:

What is a ‘bad picutre’? I would know – I took thousands of these over the years. White going off the scale. Black being too dark. Colours being juicy to a point of totally unreal. Colours going yellow. Shadows being too deep. Light being bounced off some colours. Colours being blurred. Backround being too dark and messing up the colours. All of these and more. Below are some examples of pictures I took, some of which I was even happy about at the time. Now – just can’t look at this crap, cause none of these shows the actual miniature, that I worked hard to paint.

And here’s the newest one, taken with setup mentioned in this tutorial. Overall this is the closest to the real-deal that I am able to produce. I would say that with my monitor setup this is a 95% match. Quite a difference when compared to the previous pictures isn’t it?

So – now you know all the photographic tricks up in my sleeves. A phone camera, tripod, shadow tent, simple grey background and two strong light sources in a dark room. I really know that feeling when you are proud of a paint job and want to share it, but the pictures look like crap, or totally unreal, or both. If this tutorial helps at least one hobbyist to feel good about his pictures – then it was worth it 🙂

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“THE COLONY” SPECIAL PROJECT part eight

It has been six months of peace for The Colony Special Project. I’ve mentioned before that such grand projects are never fully complete – so here I am, adding even more stuff to the already vast collection of scenery. The reason for this is obviously the restless muse, but also I grew up to a decision to expand my scenery collection. On top of more variety I will be able to cover two gaming boards and that might come in handy from time to time…

THE COLONY - part eight: NEVERENDING STORY

 

Going Double

Not so long ago I have attended a big Infinity the Game event. About 40 participating players, including some of my friends. As a co-organizer I took The Colony with me, so that along with Micro Art Studio, Zen Terrain and After Hours Workshop, there were more fully painted tables at the event. I even streched my terrain set to cover two gaming tables, thus was hyped by the vision of creeping onto another 48×48″ board. At that point I already had some new stuff purchased at Antenocitis, so it’s not like I was ever going to stop anyway 😛

Still, once the dust settled and I had a moment to thik about it, I realized that more terrain was inevitable if I was to do it again in the future…

Filling Spaces

The idea was to build more interresting stuff to fill all the empty spaces between buildings. At that point more buildings were rather out of question as I’d rather produced terrain pieces to improove single gaming table, with an option to allow me to eliminate vast empty spaces if I went double…

New Sculptures

The obvious choice was to produce more sculptures, as these look nice, are awesome LOF blockers and work pretty well with the theme of The Colony.

For this purpose I used a hard box and some random leftovers provided by friendly Terrain making companies and my wife.

Fountain Sculpture

This one was a totally new approach to the ‘sculpture’ idea. The exclusive Winsor & Newton brush box was an inspiration on it’s own and summed with my newly acquired experience in using clear resin – a fountain or a pond was a must go. I decided to use wooden balls as a sculpture to compliment the water theme with their smooth oval shapes. Now I feel like a second Winsor & Newton box is soon to follow…

Plant Compartments 2.0

Plant compartments from THE COLONY – part seven: BEYOND are by far one of the best Infinity scenery pieces I have created. They have the looks but are also very playable, providing a lot of cover and breaking long shooting corridors. Yves Saint Laurent cosmetics plug and couple more drill covers, that I received from a friend, and an I was ready to build another Plant compartment. This time tho I lacked some of the MDF pieces, necessary to build an exact copy of the previous template. I decided to do some magic and tinker a bit with the design – using materials I actually had.

I also redesigned the plant to add variety on the table. These were made using a method from THIS TUTORIAL. It is simple and very effective and can be used to create many awesome shapes and textures. It took me around ten minutes to prepare three of these, so if you ever wandered if you should try the tutorial out – just go for it 😉

Food Mashines

These three were inspired by boredom and awesome looking Orbit Gum pendants. Upon seeing the pendants I grabbed a bunch of them, knowing well that they will come in handy in the future. Did not took much time to try and use them for Infinity scenery and a set of Food Mashines (closed and secured cause ‘Nomads are in town’) are now complete. On top of three Orbit pendants I mostly used trash and leftovers, but there also are some special MDF pieces which you probably reckognize by now.

Epilogue

Another weekend well spent. Now I can’t stop to think about other ways of using clear resin, wooden balls, basing-super glue made plants and all the new stuff. Might also want to shift my attention to designing the actual MDF scenery as recently I’ve entered into an arrangement with Every Little War which will tweak some of my stuff, including Objective Room and provide it in the online offer. A lot of stuff to wait for XD

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April 2017

I was carried into April on a wave of Tabbletop World’s awesome scenery. Infinity ALEPH followed shortly, updating an already grand collection. This kept me occupied throughout first week, after which I took three giant boxes of painted stuff on a spin to Czech Republic, Austria, Slovakia and Hungary. Was cool to visit some of my foreign friendstomers, play some games and actually rest a little. Upon my return Easter got me, so no painting for another three days… after which I finally sat down and got back to work. I started with a small addition to Thomas’s Peculiar Collection, adding a D&D Collector’s Series Purple Wurm to it. I then focused my energy on improoving The Colony – an Infinity the Game board of my own. In the end I painted a bunch of Infinity Panoceania miniatures and thus the month ended. May, I hope you’re ready for me, cause I’m closing on you fast!

Thomas’s Peculiar Collection: Scenery – View gallery…

Infinity ALEPH ‘Chrome & Shiny’ – View gallery…

Thomas’s Peculiar Collection: Creatures – View gallery…

Infinity PANOCEANIA ‘Chrome & Shiny’ – View gallery…

 

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REVIEW: DUNGEONS & DRAGONS COLLECTOR’S SERIES

DUNGEONS & DRAGONS

Who does not know Dungeons & Dragons from either paperback or PC role-playing games? I myself am a big fan of D&D franchise due to uncountable hours spent gaming or reading related stories. D&D offers a lot to our imagination, but in the recent years Wizards of the Coast took extreme efforts to both promote and expand the variety of products branded with the holy D&D logo. Well, as it happened, there is a vast series of miniatures designed to fit the universe of D&D. Easy to say that I was thrilled to work with some of the Dungeons & Dragons Collector’s Series. More so, when I saw the boxes delivered by a courier. These looked really sweet and the designs and intricate detail presented in the cover was pushing my impatience into the danger zone!

PACKAGING: 5/10

When it comes to how these miniatures are packed I can only say that the boxes look great. Classic D&D style with nicely painted miniatures in the cover. Unfortunatelly looks are the only thing of value, as the protection offered by the box is rather mediocre. Inside each box I found a protective layer of cardboard supposed to keep miniatures from harms way when it comes to some degree of damage, but failing exponentially to keep the miniatures from being crushed. That’s because one long wall of the casing is loose and not supported by the short one . On top of that each miniature was wraped in a piece of bubble wrap for additional protection, but the boxes were not filled to the brim. This led to miniatures being thrown up and down during transportation and some small details were damaged beyond repair. This would be totally ok in case of regular plastic miniatures, but resin, of which these are made, is crunchy as hell and was punished severely by the lack of better protection.

QUALITY: 2/10

I must confess that the first impression when I took a closer look at the miniatures was ‘what the fuck?!’ I was almost blown off the chair and couldn’t believe that Wizards of the Coast accepted this quality to actually hit the stores. Some might say that Games Workshop or Corvus Belli’s quality spoiled me, but guys – this seemed unreal. I was swearing under my nose and shaking my head with disbelief. The miniatures presented in the pictures where nothing close to the final product and as much as I understand how things work with modelling and that some miniatures require additional preparation – I considered calling the friendstomer and declining the commission. This would have been the first time in my entire career. I really like the particular friendstomer so I decided to inform him of the quality and proceed with the miniatures, but the bad taste follows me up to this day…

 

So, what is actually wrong with the miniatures? Everything… I know how it sounds, but just take a look at the pictures below and weep. Oily surface with dimmed details, holes, extreme mold lines, shifted form, shifted surfaces, broken parts and unbelievable differences between the pictures and the real deal. Add to it that almost all thin parts were distorted and you might have a dim idea of what I faced. Atop of that some parts just did not fit each other, creating huge gaps inbetween. This last one was a common thing in every big creature from the series I have worked upon, but almost each miniature had some major defects. Even the bases looked like crap and that is not something I usually deal with…

VISUALS: 6/10

The ideas and designs for D&D miniatures are really nice and if not for extremely bad quality these might have been a group of really awesome products. What pains me the most is the amount of work required to bring these to a decent level so that they might be painted. I never done so before, but upon agreeing with the owner I just had to skip some of the defects or in one case even trashed a miniature. I don’t know how these would fare if not for specific style I choose for the job. I won’t lie – upon finishing the commission I was happy with the effect, but would always feel like these might have been done better if the quality let me. For this reason and taking the quality factor into consideration I must give a ‘6’ which is just ‘OK’.

FUNCTIONALITY: 3/10

I already mentioned the defects that clearly translate into bad modelling experience. Instead of repeating myself I would like to point out two more things.

  1. Material used for the miniatures is very fragile and does not work well with the super glue. It has high contractility thus leading to even the big parts being distorted and not fitting each other.
  2. Designs for casting ducts and casting templates are horrendous, obscuring important details, leading to excess resin leaks and detriments in key fragments of the miniatures.

Most of the quality issues could have been avoided by simply improoving the casting ducts and redesigning the way the miniatures are divided into particular parts. All in all the quantity of work required to prepare the miniatures was insane. I would never call these even close to proper and functional. Actually I think that the Wizkids Dungeons & Dragons miniatures might be much more hobbyist friendly than the Collector’s Series… and these are made of gum…

 

PRICE: 2/10

Here’s probably the craziest thing. For the quality and functionality already described a box of approximately five to six miniatures is around 50€ (E-bay prices). Let’s say that these are of perfect quality, then they still would have been a bit overpriced but fully acteptable. With ‘crap in the box’ that you get the pricing is just ridiculous! 🙂

 

SUMMARY: 3/10

Miniatures should look cool and working with them should certainly be fun. I tend to pick products that I really like for a review, but once in a while I feel compelled to shout a warning to fellow hobbyists and this is just such an occasion. On a scale where 10 is awesome, 8 is good, 6 is ok, 5 is mediocre, 3 is bad and I don’t want to even mention 1 – I would give a 3 to Dungeons & Dragons Collector’s Series and would advice you to avoid these products if able. I myself would decline taking these to my desk, unless these are for a particular friendstomer of mine in which case I will make an exception, cuz he’s my bro.

 

Please remember that this is just my personal opinion, based on my own experiences and you have full right to disagree. I wish all of you the best possible experience with Dungeons & Dragons Collector’s sets and that I’m ultimately wrong about this series.

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March 2017

March was special in many ways. First of all I have not painted a single Infinity the game miniature throughout entire month, which is somehow… strange, to say the least. Instead, I had an opportunity to paint two amazing warbands from Freebooter’s Fate: The Amazons and The Pirates. These two were my first real life experience with Freebooter’s Fate and I can openly say it was awesome to work with the miniatures. Then I have moved to Thomas’s Peculiar Collection, continuing my glorious endeavor to bring yet another part of Thomas’s imagination to life. The crown jewel of the month is certainly a lvl 5 ‘Witness Me!’ Eye Tyrant, that really tested my skills.

The closer to the end of the month I was, the bigger and more cumbersome the painted stuff got. So, there was a pair of Ainsty’s Pirate Ships – huge chunks of resin. Both are very heavy and were difficult to maneuver while painting, still both were very interresting to work on. There was also a huge Tabletop World’s Ruinted Coaching Inn, which is a rare out of print piece. Really sorry to see this one unobtainable, as I would gladly get my own. On top of that I also started to work on Tabletop World’s Town Gate and Walls, so plenty of cool stuff incomming next month.

Freebooter’s Fate AMAZONS ‘Chrome & Shiny’ – View gallery…

Freebooter’s Fate PIRATES ‘Fast & Furious’ – View gallery…

Thomas’s Peculiar Collection: Creatures – View gallery…

Thomas’s Peculiar Collection: Scenery – View gallery…

Work in Progress…

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REVIEW: ARMY PAINTER TUFTS

ARMY PAINTER

The Army Painter – a worldwide supplier of hobby products, such as paints, colour primers, glues, brushes, tufts and well… fck’n barbaric ‘Quickshades’. The company entered the market in 2007th introducing a medium sized offer of hobby products meant, as the name suggests, to paint entire armies. My personal adventure with Army Painter started pretty early, as I was a hobby store manager back in the days they’ve appeared. Easy to say that throughout ten years I had a pleasure of getting to know their entire range to a point, where Army Painter’s products had no secrets from me. Since 2007 the Army Painter’s offer had grewn potentially expandindg their paints range more than thrice and introducing some revamped products as well. This brings even more opportunities to get to know some new cool stuff.

When it comes to my opinion about entire AP’s range – I have mixed feelings. AP do have some fantastic products like:

  • Washes Warpaints, love them, old Games Workshop’s washes 100%, Strong Tone INK = Devlan Mud etc.
  • Metallic Warpaints, again love them, old GW’s ripped off 100%, they even taste the same and I will always use them!
  • Basic colours from Acrylic Warpaints, 18ml of white/black priced 25% cheaper than 12ml GW’s? Count me in!
  • Miniature & Model Super Glue, best in the world, I love it, it’s my favorite hobby product – ever.

Still, they also produce stuff like:

  • Quickshades, such barbarism… just watch THIS and frankly: die laughting (and I’ve tested them thoroughly).
  • Battlefields flocks and basings, reminding me of the old guys modelling trains, not nowaday’s quality, nor price.
  • Brushes, which are ok, but such quality comes waaay cheaper where I’m from.
  • Colour primers, varrying from awesome to utter crap.

Atop of all the above they also produce Hobby Tools, different glues, paints, Licensed Warpaints and Battlefields XP Tufts – and today I would like to take a closer look at the latter.

QUALITY: 10/10

For me the most important trait of a product is the quality. There’s plenty of products priced closely in the market, but among them there are some which exceed in quality. That’s where I aim, when deciding if I should purchase a range of particular products or not. In case of Army Painter’s Battlefield XP Tufts I used them for a very long time due to easy access and limited competition. Back in the days I wasn’t entirely happy with the AP’s tufts, as their quality varried between good and very bad. Old tufts were applied randomly, rendering a significant part of the product useless, be it due to not enought material being used or some tufts being applied to the fold in the foil, they came attached to. New tufts in the contruary, are applied selectively, numbering the exact 77 ideal pieces in a straight raws and varrying in shapes and sizes. This makes the new tufts superior to their previous incarnation and most of the current competition in the market. One might say that they are as close to being perfect as possible.

VISUALS: 9/10

They come in a variety of colours and designs. I really dig the entire range. One thing that set’s me on edge and lowers my rating from ‘awesome’ to ‘very good’ is the number of differently coloured blades mixed with the main colour. Oh’ Army Painter – why, for the love of God, you do things like this? These black hair are more horrific than your graphic layout and it is ‘a thing’…

Jokes (or not) aside, I miss the old Swamp Tuft’s strong green colour, not to mention old Winter Tuft. I do hope that with all the new designs and revamps you will bring more tufts to the fold and fill the void in my heart. Either way – be it mixed or solo, all the new Tufts look very good.

FUNCTIONALITY: 10/10

I have the exact zero issues with new Army Painter Battlefield XP Tufts. They come in perfect shapes, hair held firmly in the adhesive base. All hair are pointed upwards and on the sides. Colours are mixed well and in some cases different colours are also of a different length. Being arranged in straight raws makes these tufts easy to grab, while adhesive base has enough glue to keep them in place once used.

I have a little fetish of mine, tending to apply tufts over Super Glue and AP’s tufts behave very good when done so.

 

PRICE: 9/10

Army Painter’s Battlefield XP Tufts are very well priced. They are priced close to previously reviewed Paint Forge products, offering 77 pieces in a variety of sizes, including big ones. Would be awesome if they were cheaper, but that would be just too good, to say the least.

SUMMARY: 9/10

On a scale where 10 is awesome, 8 is good, 6 is ok, 5 is mediocre, 3 is bad and I don’t want to even mention 1 – I would give a solid 9 to Army Painter’s Battlefields XP Tufts. I had a strong need to give them a ’10’, but hey – they could’ve always been insanely underpriced didn’t they? he he he… Either way, they look cool, are very user friendly, easy to apply, of solid quality and come in a variety of colours – and yes, the price is exactly what I would expect of these.

 

All in all I’m happy to finally be reviewing the Army Painter, with which I spent like ten years of solid painting by now. In my opinion some of their products are totally undervalued by hobbyists around the globe. I plan to bring more AP’s products on to the review table in the future. Mostly, the ones I like to use and have plenty of, like Washes or the best of the best Miniature & Model Super Glue.

Where to purchase? If you are lucky, then your local hobby store has some, but if not – go straight to the source at Army Painters Online store. If you happen to be managing a hobby store in Poland, then I strongly recommend you to contact THESE GUYS, they are very friendly distributors based here in Rzeczpospolita Polska.

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TUTORIAL: MODELLING OVERGROWN BASES

Today I’m going to reveal one of my dearest secrets: how Super Glue and Basing Glue can be used to make some fantastic, crazy, awesome stuff! I have invented it by accident when I was a kid, used it since and love it for both simplicity and awesome texture effect. In this easy, step-by-step tutorial I will show you how to produce your own Overgrown Bases!

I USED:

  • Super Glue,
  • Basing Glue,
  • Birch-tree seeds*
  • Bitz of dried out grapes**
  • Random small balls***

*I purchased a huge pack of these for approximately 1€,

**Once you eat up all the goodie goodie grapes, you have like a bunch of wooden leftovers. Once dried out these are awesome bor basing miniatures.

***I use either Air Soft Gun ammuniton, or for smaller calliber moist absorber balls obtainable with every new pair of shoes. Just ask your gf to dig out one of her shoeboxes, there should be a small paper bag filled with tiny, translucent balls in it.

1  I started by applying basing glue all over the base. No need to make it smooth, just enough not to leave any empty spaces.

2  I then dropped some of the tiny balls and Birch-tree seeds over the wet glue.

3  Here's where MAGIC begun. I covered entire base with Super Glue and watched as it was warped before my eyes in a matter of merely seconds.

4  Before it dried out I added some pieces of dry grape vines to make it look like some strange, alien mushrooms, or plants. I then covered additional stuff with more Super Glue to harden it.

5  Last step was to leave entire thing to dry out. Usually it takes around five minutes for a base to get dry, but it might take a bit longer, depending on how much basing glue is used.

6  The final step was to undercoat dried out base with Chaos Black spray... then do a quick paint job with random colours.

Now seriously – tell my that’s not an awesome texture effect XD This is like ultra-fast, mega-cool way of using two glues to create utter chaos on any surface. Chaos mutations, warped stuff, Zerg creep, alien planet foliage, jungle floor, faerie glade, name it – then glue+glue it 😉

Do not hesitate to let me know and send some pictures via FACEBOOK if you ever use the tutorial. I will be happy to see how it turned out 😉

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TUTORIAL: MODELLING CAVE BASES

In this easy, step-by-step tutorial I’m going to show you how to create a Cave Base.

I USED:

  • Super Glue,
  • Basing Glue,
  • Toothpicks and nail sticks*
  • Small gravel stones**
  • Games Workshop Texture Paints,

*Ask your GF if you don’t know where to obtain the latter.

**Search in IKEA or any home/garden store. A lifetime stockpile of these is less than 5€.

 

1  I started by cutting off the tips of both toothpicks and nail sticks. These would do for fine stalagmites later on.

2  I then applied couple of drops of basing glue onto the base. Before it dried out I applied Super Glue on it and mounted stalagmites, tip upwards, on the mix.

3  Next I covered entire stalagmites with basing glue and left it to dry. The excess glue, moved by the power of gravity, was drawn downwards, where it rested around the base of the stalagmites, making them look smooth and natural.

4  Using the previous technique I applied some basing glue in few spots and then Super Glue'ed some gravel over it. You can actually glue any type of stuff with this - like skulls, some pieces of armour etc.

5  I then covered antire surface, except for any fillers, with Games Workshop's texture paints. I used a mix of Agrellan Earth and Agrellan Badland for this tutorial, but actually any of the range will do - as long as you would like to undercoat the base afterwards.

6  The final step was to undercoat dried out base with Chaos Black spray...

Now, what’s left is just to paint the bases with your preferable colour scheme. I chose to go red/copper style similar to ‘the Wave’ and watered some spots with clear resin, but the number of potential colour schemes is unlimited.

If you ever use the tutorial – be sure to let me know and send some pictures via FACEBOOK. I will be happy to see how it turned out 😉

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