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Monthly Archives:August 2015

TUTORIAL: MODELLING LUSH BASES

In this easy, step-by-step tutorial I’m going to show you how to create a Lush Base. I designed these bases to fit Infinity the Game Tohaa ‘tactical rocks’ – you can see how it turned out at Infinity TOHAA ‘Witness Me!’ gallery.

I USED:

  • Super Glue,
  • Basing Glue,
  • Stirland Battlemire (GW texture paint),
  • Paint Forge Tufts,
  • Random Tufts,
  • Dried out Grape branch,

*  I started by separating Grape mounts from the dried out Grape branch. Being rather soft, their topf have been removed to improove durability and shape.

*  I then applied a drop of basing glue onto the base, followed up shortly by another drop - this time super glue.

*  Before mixed glue drop was able to dry out I've planted Grape mount on top of it, creating strange looking plant.

*  Once glue dried up I've painted the bases following choosen colour scheme (see below). I then added some texture on top of them with Stirland Battlemire texture paint.

*  orem ipsum dolor sit amet, Integer commodo tristiqu odio, aliquet ut. Maecenas sed justo imperdiet bibendum. Vivamus nec sapien imperdiet diam. Aliquam erat volutpat. Sed onsectetur suscipit nunc et rutrum. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet,volutpat. Sed onsectetur suscipit nunc et rutrum. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, volutpat.

*  Last step was to apply regular tufts. I used some noname tufts in large numbers filling most of the flat areas. Job done.

BONUS COLOUR RECIPE:

:

Black Undercoat,

Stirland Battlemire (GW), texture

Karak Stone (GW), stones & plants

Flayed One Flesh (GW), flatbrush stones & plants

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP), wash

Nazroth

COLOUR RECIPES: INFINITY COMBINED ARMY

Here are some Colour Recipes for Combined Armys from GALLERY: INFINITY COMBINED ARMY lvl 5. Please take note that this is a simple colour scheme, not covering multiple overlapping layers and blends inbetween, that lead to the final product. It is supposed to be used as guidline not a step-by-step.

BLACK/GREY armour & weapons:

Black Undercoat,

Panzer Dark Grey (Val),*

Light Grey (Val),*p

Fenrisian Grey (GW), l&p

Pallid Wych Flesh (GW), l&p

Dark Tone Ink (AP),

Wolf Grey (Val), blend

Pallid Wych Flesh (GW), l&p

Red Terracota (Val), blend

Off White (Val), l&p

ORANGE fibers:

Mix Hot Orange (Val) 9:1 Troll Slayer Orange (GW), wash

Mix Hot Orange (Val) 1:1 Troll Slayer Orange (GW), wash

Mix Troll Slayer Orange (GW) 9:1 Mix Hot Orange (Val),

Mix Troll Slayer Orange (GW) 9:1:X Mix Hot Orange (Val), Pale Wych Flesh (GW), l&p

Pale Wych Flesh (GW), p

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1:1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP), Bloodletter (GW), Medium,

Hot Orange (Val), blend

RED lights:

Lugganath Orange (GW), l&p

Gory Red (Val), glaze

LAVA bases:

Mahogany (Val), *

Gorthor Brown (GW), drbr rocks

Gory Red (Val), * lava

Scrofulous Brown (Val), * lava

Mix Scrofulous Brown (Val) 2:1 White, * lava

Black, p lava

Scrofulous Brown (Val), *p lava

Lamenters Yellow (Val), * lava

Hot Orange (Val), * lava

White, * bubbles

Mix Scrofulous Brown (Val) 5:1 Black, * rocks

Black, blend rocks

Gloss Varnish, lava

 

l&p – lines and points,

p – points,

bl – blend,

gl – glaze,

drbr – drybrush,

flbr – flatbrush,

stpl – stippling,

*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)

Nazroth

TUTORIAL: MODELLING LAVA BASES

In this easy, step-by-step tutorial I’m going to show you how to create and paint a Lava Bases. I used these bases for Infinity the Game Combined Army – you can see how it turned out at Infinity COMBINED ARMY ‘Witness Me!’ gallery.

I USED:

  • Super Glue,
  • Basing Glue,
  • Cork,
  • Shoe moist absorbers**

**Where I’m from there’s a small paper bag filled with moist absorbsion balls in every shoe box. If you can’t get that, just use some grains or make small balls out of green stuff or even modeling clay.

*  I started by breaking a piece of Cork into smaller bitz.

*  I then applied Super Glue over the bases in a random pattern. No need to be precise here.

*  Pieces of Cork followed to form 'volcanic rocks' and future spots for the miniatures to be mounted on.

*  Once Super Glue dried out I covered entire base with Basing Glue.

*  I then dropped tiny balls (shoe moist absorbers) oon top of the Basing Glue, between 'volcanic rocks' to create an effect boiling lava bubbles.

*  Next I applied Basing Glue over the bubbles.

BONUS PAINTING STEP-BY-STEP:

:

*  Black Undercoat.

*  Mahogany (Val) airbrushed all over the base.

*  Gorthror Brown (GW) drybrush over the Rocks.

*  Gory Red (Val) airbrushed over Lava.

*  Scrofulous Brown (Val) airbrushed over Lava.

*  Scrofulous Brown (Val) + White airbrushed over Lava.

*  Black spots added around Rocks

*  Scrofulous Brown (Val) airbrushed over Black spots.

*  Lamenters Yellow (GW) airbrushed over Lava.

*  Hot Orange (Val) spots airbrushed over Black spots, White airbrushed over bubbles.

*  Scrofulous Brown (Val) + Black, then pure Black glaze applied oved the Rocks.

*  Gloss Varnish applied over Lava.

 

 

 

Nazroth

May 2018

May was quite a well planned month. It was supposed to be filled to the brim with awesome Infinity the game miniatures along with some oldschool Rakham stuff. Instead it turned out to be a month of missfortune and dissapointment. Not only Rakham stuff got cancelled unanounced (no hard feelings, shit happens) – customs held a shipment of Infinity that was supposed to get here early into the month. On top of this my usual help in minis preparation took a sudden break. This resulted in me waiting for customs to release the shipment and catching a downer. I tried to fill the time painting my own Shadespire Steelheart’s Champions warband, but afterwards I just gave up and spent some regular family time. Managed to get back to shape late into the month, once two Infinity projects finally got here. Prepped all and following a wave od hype managed to add a batch to Infinity TOHAA collection. In the end it was fine, but I hope months like this won’t happen again. I’m too young to be on a painting rehab…

Shadespire STEELHEART’S CHAMPIONS ‘Witness Me!’ – View gallery…

Infinity TOHAA ‘Witness Me!’ – View gallery…

Nazroth

PAINTING PHILOSOPHY part four ANATOMY OF BASING

PROLOGUE:

Welcome to the fourth installment into the ‘Painting Philosophy’ series, where “I let you in on ‘how’ and especially ‘why’ I do some things in a certain way. In my opinion a proper approach to painting is crucial to maintain healthy and rewarding experience. Final result depends on it in the same way as on techniques, know-how and tools used. Nowadays internet is full of painting tutorials yet it takes some inner understanding of our own capabilities to find what suits us best and fully benefit from all acquired knowledge. That being said – In this series I will reveal what works best for me as a painter. I hope you will find some wisdom in it…”

PAINTING PHILOSOPHY: BASING LIKE A PRO

Today I would like to talk less about painting and more about basing and composition, cause it does not matter how great your paint job is – if you based a miniature poorly it will look off, so there’s that. By ‘basing and composition’ I understand the way a miniature is set up on a base. It’s not enough that a miniature is just mounted on top of a base. In the end base is a display for our miniature and together they create a composition, that should be both stable on the gaming board and tell a little story about the miniature itself…

What is this about?

Basically, every humanoid miniature has a center of gravity. In most cases it is located slightly below the chest and over the pelvis of a miniature. If a miniature is armed with giant gun or standing with hands spread, the center of gravity might shift a little to encompass additional weight. In these cases both gun (big, heavy part) and main body of the miniature are treated as a single ‘body’ and the center of gravity is shifted away from natural position and towards additional part/parts evenly.

How I do it?

The key is to base a miniature so that it’s center of gravity is alligned with the center of the base. It does not have to be exact, but let’s just say the closer the better. In case of more complex miniatures it is possible that aligning shifted center of gravity with center of the base will move main body of the miniature to one side of the base (for example to the back of the base). This is ok for as long as the miniature stays within the invisible lines of the base’s edge and seem to still occupy the top of the base evenly.

Why do this?

To put it simply – because it looks better and adds feeling of ‘physics’ to the composition. As mentioned before a base and miniature are a single composition. This means that the way you mount a miniature on the base will translate into a short story about what is actually going on. Imagine a base to be a visualisation of physics of your miniature. For example:

‘Bakunin Taskmaster charging, using his right pauldron like a battering ram to slam through enemies…’ You can see this guy is heavy and moving forward. This is achieved by shifting center of gravity to the back of miniature, towards extended armed hand and aligning it with center of the base. This guy is moving forward and you can actually see his immediate destination on the base he’s moving over.

Now imagine how stupid it would look like if Bakunin Taskmaster was mounted with his feet at the center of the base instead. You don’t actually have to imagine, cause I will show you. Now this giant of steel, polimer and fiber muscles looks like he lost his footing and is jumping off a cliff as a result. Entire right hand and part of the pauldron is off the base and seem to drag the rest of the miniature along.

EXAMPLES:

Here’s a set of examples I dug in the web and how I see them performed.

EPILOGUE:

You have now finished the fourth Painting Philosophy article. This series is all about sharing forbidden knowledge so if it drove you insane, just stay calm and paint some. You get back to normal once it settles up in your mind. As usual – ‘Please take note that what works for me, might not necessarily work for you – still there are many ways to accomplish certain things – mine is just one of them’. If you find this article helpful – be sure to leave me some feedback. Have a nice hobbying 😉

“Many fall in the face of chaos. But not this one, not today.”

Nazroth

TUTORIAL: PAINTING CORREGIDOR BASES (BASIC)

In this Step-by-Step tutorial I would like to take you on a spin with some Micro Art Studio’s Corregidor Bases. Guys from MAS did a fantastic job painting this product, but I have my own way which I would like to share with you. Buckle up and let’s get to it!

I USED:

* Regular Brush,

* Stippling Brush,

* Black,

* Tin Bitz / Warplock Bronze (GW)

* Eshin Grey (GW),

* Strong Tone Ink (AP),

* Gun Metal (AP),

* Shining Silver (AP),

* Scorched Brown (GW),

* Calthan Brown (GW),

* Ryza Rust (GW),

* Lugganath Orange (GW),

* Flayed One Flesh (GW),

 

!  You can achieve similar results using different paints as long as you followTutorial's basics. For example Eshin Grey (GW) might be switched for Panzer Dark Grey (Val).

1  I started by applying a layer of Eshin Grey (GW) to all raised areas of the base, over Black undercoat. Just a hint that applying two slightly diluted layers goes much faster and produces a similar result.

2  I then moved to the mesh areas and painted them with Warplock Bronze (GW). Once again this paint might be diluted but this time no need to apply two layers - one will suffice.

3  Once Warplock Bronze dried out, I applied a layer of Gun Metal (AP). For best results I did this with regular brush and using a Flatbrush technique following:

Five Layers Technique – Metal  basis

4  Next Shining Silver (AP) came in. I applied one layer over Gun Metal with regular brush, Flatbrushing.

5  I then applied a wet, thick layer of Strong Tone Ink (AP) over entire base. Once it dried out - I applied another, identical layer. (Picture seem grey'ish - in real life this would look more brown and juicy)

!  orem ipsum dolor sit amet, Integer commodo tristiqu odio, aliquet ut. Maecenas sed justo imperdiet bibendum. Vivamus nec sapien imperdiet diam. Aliquam erat volutpat. Sed onsectetur suscipit nunc et rutrum. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet,volutpat. Sed onsectetur suscipit nunc et rutrum. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, volutpat.

1  Using either a Stippling brush or a well used up large brush I applied stains of Scorched Brown (GW) over all raised areas. Was carefull not to use too much paint.

2  I then drybrushed edges and some large parts of raised areas using Calthan Brown (GW).

3  Next I Stippled some Ryza Rust (GW) on top of previous layer, ensuring to leave some Calthan Brown visible.

4  Same technique, different paint. I stippled Lugganath Orange (GW) on top of Ryza Rust layer, leaving previous layer visible on the sides of the new one.

!  From this layer onward I usually paint over both raised and mesh areas. For the purpose of this Tutorial I left mesh parts clean, but do not be alarmed if you see pictures of my own bases with a less differentiated colour scheme.

5  Flayed one Flesh (GW) followed. This time I Drybrushed over Lugganath Orange layer and then used regular brush to paint thin lines on the edges.

6  Adding a final touch I painted edges smooth Black to add contrast and keep the paint job clean.

That’s it – you have followed me on my short journey from black undercoat to finished Corregidor Bases. Below you will find some examples of finished Corregidor Bases. Each bunch turns out slightly different from the rest. That’s because a slight difference in surface coverage or layer to layer proportion might result in change of how eye can see these bases. Either way – here they are:

Nazroth

COLOUR RECIPES: SHADESPIRE STEELHEART’S CHAMPIONS

Here are some Colour Recipes for Steelheart’s Champions from GALLERY: SHADESPIRE STEELHEART’S CHAMPIONS. Please take note that this is a simple colour scheme, not covering multiple overlapping layers and blends inbetween, that lead to the final product. It is supposed to be used as guidline not a step-by-step.

GOLDEN armour:

Black Undercoat,

Mix Rust metallic (Val) 1:1 Blackk metallic (Val), *

Bright Bronze (Val), *

Mix Bright Bronze (Val) 1:1 Brass Balls (P3),

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),

Mix Brass Balls (P3) 1:1 Shining Silver (AP), l&p

 

BLUE:

Steel Blue (Val),

Magic Blue (Val),

Mix Magic Blue (Val) 1:1 French Blue (Val), l

Mix Magic Blue (Val) 1:1:1 French Blue (Val), Off White (Val), l&p

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),

Baharroth Blue (GW), l&p

Guilliman Blue (Gw), glaze

Off White (Val), l&p

SCROLLS:

Khaki (Val), *

Bonewhite (Val), *

Mix flayed one Flesh (GW) 1:1 Off White (Val),

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),

Off White (Val), l&p

Hot Orange (Val), gl

Gloss Varnish (Val), p

 

METAL weapons:

Black Undercoat,

Warplock Bronze (GW),

Gun Metal (AP),

Shining Silver (AP), l&p

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),

Shining Silver (AP), l&p

GREY belts & strips:

Black Undercoat,

Panzer DK. Grey (Val),

Fenrisian Grey (GW), flbr

Pallid Wych Flesh (GW), l&p

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),

Off White (Val), l&p

 

ORANGE hafts:

Black Undercoat,

Cavalry Brown (Val),

Orange Brown (Val), l&p

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),

Orange Brown (Val), l&p

Lugganath Orange (GW), l&p

Off White (Val), l&p

Hot Orange (Val), gl

 

BASES:

Medium Sea Grey (Val), *

Light Grey (Val)*,

Pale Grey (Val),*

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),

Off White (Val), l&p

Dirt (Val), bl

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP), bl

 

 

l&p – lines and points,

p – points,

bl – blend,

gl – glaze,

drbr – drybrush,

flbr – flatbrush,

stpl – stippling,

*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)

Nazroth

TUTORIAL: ERASING BLOOPERS

Painting bloopers – something that happens to all of us, hobbyists, regardless of skill level and experience. In my everyday painting practice bloopers happen all the time. This led me into ‘Improvise. Adapt. Overcome.’ kind of situation and today I would like to present to you a way of dealing with painting mistakes.

I USED:

  • Wooden toothpick
  • Water
  • Gentle touch and persistence 😛

1  First let's take a look at this ugly bastard of a line. One moment everything goes smooth, then BAM! and I end up with an ugly line that stands out like crazy. Repainting entire fragment of the coat with many layers is out of question. At this point I can only try to thin the line down by erasing part of it. I grab a wooden tootphick...

2  ...and dip it in a water filled bowl. After 15-20 seconds I use a paper towel to remove excess water from the softened tip of the toothpick. My 'Blooper Eraser' is ready for action.

3  I always start by touching the surface perpendicularly with the soft tip of the 'Blooper Eraser'. Then I move the tool gently up and down along the surface, softening the paint and stripping major shape of a blooper.

4  Once desirable shape is achieved, assuming I don't want to erase entire thing, I use an edge of the tip to further improve the shape.

5  Removing paint from the edges works very similarly, except that instead of the tip, I use side of the toothpick, . This way 'Blooper Eraser' is easy to control and stay on target.

And that’s actually it. You now know my secret technique of creating the ‘Blooper Eraser’ and saying goodbye to ugly bloopers. This technique works for me like a charm and I do hope it will work  for you as well. Cheers!

Nazroth

April 2018

April was a peculiar month. At first I had a lot of free time and not much to paint, so I let myself be occupied with my personal projects bringing Shadespire Sepulchral Guard, Shadespire Garrek’s Reavers and a ‘Shadeglass Scenery’ Special Project to live. Once done I moved to BIG STUFF including AVP Cheyenne Dropship, entire Sector Imperialis Gameboard and a Tabletop World Wizard’s Tower. Other than that I also delivered an Infinity the Game test commission of Yu-Jing miniatures and being  hyped with how it turned out I moved to a grand finish with some of my own Nomad miniatures. An interresting mix of projects to fill the void that appeared lately. Fortunatelly more stuff is going to happen soon 😉

“SHADEGLASS SCENERY’ Special Project – View gallery…

Shadespire GARREK’S REAVERS ‘Chrome & Shiny’ – View gallery…

Shadespire SEPULCHRAL GUARD ‘Witness Me!’ – View gallery…

Aliens vs Predator CHEYENNE DROPSHIP ‘Fast & Furious’ – View gallery…

Infinity NOMADS – View gallery…

Infinity MISCAELLOUS – View gallery…

Thomas’s Peculiar Collection: Scenery – View gallery…

Realm of Battle Sector Imperialis board

Nazroth

COLOUR RECIPES: SHADESPIRE GARREK’S REAVERS

Here are some Colour Recipes for Garrek’s Reavers from GALLERY: SHADESPIRE GARREK’S REAVERS. Please take note that this is a simple colour scheme, not covering multiple overlapping layers and blends inbetween, that lead to the final product. It is supposed to be used as guidline not a step-by-step.

SKULLS:

Black Undercoat,

Bonewhite (Val),

Skeleton Bone (AP),

Mix Skeleton Bone (AP) 1:1 Off White (AP), l&p

Off White (Val), l&p

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),

Off White (Val), l&p

 

SKIN:

Black Undercoat,

Red Terracotta (Val), *

Dwarf Skin (Val), *

Flesh (Val), *

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),

Dwarf Skin (Val), bl

Flesh (Val), b

Tanned Flesh (Val), gl

Flesh (Val), l&p

RED armour:

Black Undercoat,

Red Terracotta (Val), *

Khorne Red (GW),

Mephiston Red (GW),

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),

Fire Dragon Bright (GW), l&p

Lugganath Orange (GW), l&p

Streaking Grime (AK),

 

METAL armour:

Black Undercoat,

Warplock Bronze (GW),

Gun Metal (AP),

Shining Silver (AP), l&p

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),

Shining Silver (AP), l&p

BROWN belts & strips:

Red Terracotta (Val), * undercoat,

Pallid Wych Flesh (GW), flbr

Off White (Val), l&p

Mix: Scorched Brown (Val) 1:1:1 Dark Fleshtone (Val), Medium,

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),

 

GREY clothes:

Black Undercoat,

Panzer DK. Grey (Val),

Fenrisian Grey (GW), flbr

Pallid Wych Flesh (GW), l&p

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),

Off White (Val), l&p

BASES:

Medium Sea Grey (Val), *

Light Grey (Val)*,

Pale Grey (Val),*

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP),

Off White (Val), l&p

Dirt (Val), bl

Mix Strong Tone Ink (AP) 1:1 Soft Tone Ink (AP), bl

Off White (Val), l&p

 

l&p – lines and points,

p – points,

bl – blend,

gl – glaze,

drbr – drybrush,

flbr – flatbrush,

stpl – stippling,

*Airbrushed (with multiple layers and mixes)

Nazroth